Difference between revisions of "Williams System 9 - 11"
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==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ==== | ==== Repairing Alkaline Corrosion ==== | ||
| − | Remove the battery holder entirely from the MPU board and wash the board's affected areas with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water. Scrub the corrosion with a soft toothbrush, rinse with water, then rinse with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol to displace the water. Unfortunately on system 11 boards often the corrosion will eat into traces that are beneath PIA chips (U41/U42) | + | Remove the battery holder entirely from the MPU board and wash the board's affected areas with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water. Scrub the corrosion with a soft toothbrush, rinse with water, then rinse with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol to displace the water. Unfortunately on system 11 boards often the corrosion will eat into traces that are beneath PIA chips (U41/U42) requiring desoldering of those chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces. |
==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ==== | ==== Connecting a logic probe to the MPU ==== | ||
Revision as of 05:05, 14 March 2012
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Click to go back to the Williams solid state repair guides index.
1 Introduction
The Williams system 7 boardset was replaced in 1984 with the system 9 boardset, and then again in 1985 with the system 11 boardset. Combining the driver board, sound board, and cpu directly onto one board eliminated several design deficiencies of the earlier 3-7 boardsets; mainly the 40 pin interconnector, and extra wiring harness interboard connectors. Larger roms could be fitted directly onto the boards allowing for more complex rulesets and sounds.
2 Games
2.1 System 9
| Title | Date of Release | Model # | Sound | Other Boards | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Space Shuttle | 12-1984 | 653 | C-10716 (Speech only) | ||
| Sorcerer | 03-1985 | 532 | C-10716 (Speech only) | ||
| Comet | 06-1985 | 540 | C-10716 (Speech only) |
2.2 System 11
| Title | Date of Release | Model # | Sound | Other Boards | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High Speed | 01-1986 | 541 | C-11030 (Background sound only) | ||
| Grand Lizard | 04-1986 | 523 | C-11030 (Background sound only) | ||
| Road Kings | 07-1986 | 542 | D-11197-542 (Background music only) |
2.3 System 11a
| Title | Date of Release | Model # | Sound | Other Boards | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pinbot | 10-1986 | 549 | D-11297-549 (Background Speech & Sound) | ||
| Millionaire | 01-1987 | 555 | D-11298-555 (Background Speech & Sound) | ||
| F-14 Tomcat | 03-1987 | 554 | D-11298-554 (Used on 1st 5,000 games - Background Speech & Sound) / D-11581-554 | ||
| Fire! | 08-1987 | 556 | D-11581-556 | ||
| Fire! Champagne Edition | 09-1987 | 556 | D-11581-556 |
2.4 System 11b
| Title | Date of Release | Model # | Sound | Other Boards | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Big Guns | 10-1987 | 557 | D-11581-557 | ||
| Space Station | 12-1987 | 552 | D-11298-552 | ||
| Cyclone | 02-1988 | 564 | D-11581-564 | ||
| Banzai Run | 05-1988 | 566 | D-11581-566 | ||
| Swords of Fury | 06-1988 | 559 | D-11581-559 | ||
| Taxi | 08-1988 | 553 | D-11581-553 | ||
| Jokerz! | 12-1988 | 567 | D-12338-567 | ||
| Earthshaker | 02-1989 | 568 | D-11581-568 | ||
| Black Knight 2000 | 04-1989 | 563 | D-11581-585 | ||
| Transporter the Rescue | 04-1989 | 2008 | D-11581-2008 | ||
| Police Force | 08-1989 | 573 | D-11581-573 | ||
| Elvira and the Party Monsters | 10-1989 | 2011 | D-11581-2011 | ||
| Bad Cats | 11-1989 | 575 | D-11581-575 | ||
| Mousin' Around! | 12-1989 | 2009 | D-11581-2009 | ||
| Whirlwind | 01-1990 | 574 | D-11581-574 | Uses a C-13287 Sound Overlay Solenoid Board to control 5 extra devices |
2.5 System 11c
| Title | Date of Release | Model # | Sound | Other Boards | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Bally Game Show | 04-1990 | 2003 | D-11581-2003 | Uses a C-13286 Sound Overlay Lamp Board | |
| Pool Sharks | 06-1990 | 2014 | D-11581-2014 | ||
| Rollergames | 06-1990 | 576 | D-11581-576 | ||
| Diner | 09-1990 | 571 | D-11581-571 | ||
| Radical! | 09-1990 | 2015 | D-11581-2015 | ||
| Dr. Dude | 11-1990 | 2016 | D-11581-2016 | ||
| Riverboat Gambler | 11-1990 | 50007 | D-11581-50007 | ||
| Bugs Bunny's Birthday Ball | 01-1991 | 20009 | D-11581-20009 |
Game date of release and model numbers provided by the Internet Pinball Database - http://www.ipdb.org
3 Technical Info
System 9 eliminated a huge issue with the earlier system 3 through 7 boardsets - the 40 pin interconnector used between the MPU and Driver boards. Now, all the circuitry of the mpu, driver, and sound boards was contained on one board. Helper boards were still used for displays, speech, special purposes, and solenoid expansion. Starting with Banzai Run, Williams re-introduced a weak link into their system: the interconnect board, itself designed to eliminate many under playfield flasher driver boards, which had proven themselves problematic.
One of the largest advantages of the system 11 board set is its ability to switch one set of coil driver transistors between 2 sets of coils/flashers. It does this via a relay on a separate board called the A/C relay. The theory is that coils that are seldom fired will be on the A side of the relay, and that flashers will be on the C side of the relay. Most of the time during gameplay, the C side is active, letting the flashers be driven. If the driver transistor for the A/C relay itself is bad, the relay defaults to the coil side, allowing the game continue to operate in a semi-normal fashion (usually the A side coils are the ball shooter lane, drop target resets, VUK - basically coils that don't need to be able to operate 100% of the time like a sling coil or pop bumper coil. (Data East's boardset was essentially a copy of the system 11 boardset - but they programmed it the opposite way, so that the flasher side of the A/C relay is active by default. So on a Data East game when the A/C relay doesn't operate, the game just sits there and flashes lamps instead of playing.)
System 9 and early system 11 games do share a disadvantage with the earlier 3-7 boardsets - they still utilize special solenoid circuitry. The pops and slings on system 9/11 games do not activate a switch which is seen by the mpu's program which fires the coil - instead, the switches directly fire their associated coils via some logic gates on the main board. The main disadvantage with this system is that the solenoids fire continuously as long as their activation switch is closed; a locked on sling or pop will burn out components quickly. It is recommended to add a 1, 1.5, or 2 amp inline fuse to each coil on a directly fired system 11 game. (Usually just the pops and slings are direct fired coils).
3.1 CPU Driver Boards
3.2 Sound Boards
The speech board used in System 9 games is essentially the same as the speech board used in System 6/7 games. However, there is one slight difference. Four jumpers were added to the board so either 2532 or 2732 PROMs could be used. Both Space Shuttle and Sorcerer use 2532 PROMs from the factory, while Comet uses 2732 PROMs. Either 2532s or 2732s can be used for any of the games, provided that the jumpers as set for the appropriate EPROM.
In addition to the speech board generating speech sounds, it mixes the sound and speech signals via the potentiometer on the speech board.
3.3 Power Supply
<Note, the description of this PS is not quite correct and needs more research ... Chris>
This power supply uses obsolete parts at Q1 (SDS-201) and Q3 (SDS-202). The PCB print was used through Swords of Fury, with slight modifications. Up until and including Fire! Champagne Edition, Q1 and Q3 were the obsolete SDS-201 and SDS-202. Big Guns was the next game after Fire! Champagne Edition. Big guns and beyond used an MJE15030 at Q1 and an MJE15031 at Q3.
The schematics for this power supply also list part numbers MPSD52 and MPSD02. The equivalent part number for an MPSD52 is a 2N5401. The equivalent part number for an MPSD02 is a 2N5551.
Part numbers printed on an SDS-201 at Q1 may be "6557" or "9057S".
Part numbers printed on an SDS-202 at Q3 may be "MDS60" or "9058S"
This power supply was used from Taxi thru the remainder of the System 11 board set.
3.4 Auxiliary Power Driver Board
3.5 Interconnect Boards
Although the first four System 11B games, which include Big Guns, Space Station, Cyclone, and Banzai Run, use some form of an interconnect board, it wasn't until Swords of Fury when this interconnect board was used as a standard for the remaining System 11 games. The interconnect board used in Swords of Fury does use a different part number, D-12185-559, compared to later System 11 games, D-12313-x (x denotes the game's model number), but it is nearly the same in design.
The interconnect board is located in the backbox, just below the CPU board. The board has the following circuits passing through the board:
- the lamp general illumination circuits
- flipper power and ground
- lamp columns and rows
- switch columns and rows
- flash lamp power
What differentiates the board from game to game are the resistor and fuse values used for the flash lamp power circuits.
3.6 Other Boards
3.6.1 High Current Driver Boards
The high current driver board was used on Earthshaker to drive the shaker motor. It was used on several other Williams / Bally WPC under multiple part numbers.
3.7 Flipper Coils
System 11 games (starting with F-14 Tomcat) use different flipper coils dependent on flipper placement and application. Below is a chart of the flipper coils used, their wrapper color, and strength.
| System 11 Flipper Coils | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Part # | Color | Strength | Notes |
| FL-11753 | Yellow | Weakest | |
| FL-11722 | Green | Weaker | |
| FL-11630 | Red | Standard | |
| FL-11629 | Blue | Strongest | |
4 Problems and Solutions
4.1 Power Problems
Replacement power supply If using the Rottendog WDP011A power supply for Williams Cyclone or Big Guns, you may have to move the +12v jumper from the bottom jump to the top. If your machine has GI but doesn't boot (only the 5v light on the CPU is lit) and is one of these two games, that is the most likely reason.
Bridge Rectifier Fuses A design flaw carried over from the earlier systems was the lack of fuses on the two bridge rectifiers used for the solenoid and lamp power. In theory, if either of these bridges short, the main power fuse in the game will blow, but that's not always the case. On games before Fire, interrupt one of the AC input lines and install a fuse holder with an 8 amp fuse installed. Games made after Fire already have a factory installed fuse holder and fuse on these bridges.
4.2 MPU boot issues
4.2.1 Normal Game Boot Behavior
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with a 7-segment display on the MPU is to show a "0" in the display. The "0" does not go away. It's always displayed under normal boot conditions.
Normal MPU boot behavior for games with 3 LEDs instead of the 7-segment display on the MPU is for the "+5 VDC" LED to light up first and stay on, then a split second later, the blanking LED will light and stay on. At the same time that the blanking LED lights, the diagnostic LED will begin to blink at a fairly rapid pace with a 50% duty cycle (equal durations of the LED being on then off).
If a System 11 MPU with 3 LEDs is installed in a game whose original board contained the 7-segment LED diagnostic display first introduced with the System 7 board set, the status of the 3 LEDs won't help much. The game software is attempting to display a "0" (assuming your game boots correctly) on a 7-segment display. Since the board contains just the three LEDs, the MPU circuitry merely lights all three LEDs as shown in the picture at left.
<Discuss boot error codes for both the 7-segment and LED MPU versions here>
4.2.2 Five "Knocks"
Sometimes when turning a system 11 game on, the knocker will fire 5 times, causing most folks to wonder, "what the hey"?. All that knocking is designed to call the operators attention to a potential switch issue. Like the "credit dot" in WPC games, these 5 knocks mean that the game hasn't detected the closure of a particular switch (or switches) in a certain number of games. A message will be displayed indicating which switch or switches to examine.
Usually, this is an indication of a failed switch. Most switches get closed during the normal course of game play, long before the game's software counts up to the limit of "games played without closing each switch" and issues this indication.
To address this issue, use the coin door diagnostic panel buttons to enter switch edge test. Manually close the switch. If a switch closure is indicated, either normal game play failed to close the switch (you're not a very good player), or the switch is dirty. Closing a switch with your finger is different than closing a switch with a ball. Your finger generally pushes more firmly on the switch contacts. Clean the switch by dragging an old business card or piece of paper between the switch contacts while pinching the switch blades together with your fingers.
Caution: do not attempt to adjust switches with anything metal while the game is turned on. You will eventually short coil or lamp power to the switch matrix, damaging the MPUs switch matrix circuitry.
If closing the switch manually doesn't register in switch edge test, see the "switch problems" section of this Wiki.
4.2.3 System 11 "Adjust Failure" and "Factory Setting"
The "Adjust Failure" message seen in the picture at left occurs when the game software can't make sense of the information contained in the battery backed RAM at U25. This could be because the RAM has failed, but this is unlikely. The vastly more common reason is that battery backup power has been interrupted to the games battery backed RAM because either the batteries are not installed, dead, or dieing. Hopefully, they haven't made a mess of the board by leaking alkaline. See below. "Adjust Failure" is displayed under these conditions when the coin door is closed.
If the coin door is open under these conditions, the message "Factory Setting" is displayed.
4.2.4 Relocating the battery from the System 9 MPU board
Relocating the 3xAA batteries off the MPU board is always a good idea. Leaky alkaline batteries are the #1 killer of pinball boards. Sometimes the battery terminals don't look corroded, but the metal rivet which contacts the battery are actually missing.
If "04 00" in the credit/match display is seen when the game is turned on, the game is in audit mode versus attract mode. Below are several reasons why the game has defaulted to audit mode.
- The batteries have failed and need replacing.
- The battery voltage is not reaching the U18 (5517-2) RAM. Check pin 24 of U18 for approximately 4.3v with the power on and 3.9v with the power off. Lack of battery backup power could also be due to an open D3 (1N4148) blocking diode. This diode is used to keep the CPU's logic power from charging the batteries.
- Blocking diode D2 (1N5817) has shorted, and the batteries are trying to run the MPU board when the game is off.
- There are other problems, such as a faulty 5517-2 RAM.
Simply removing the batteries will not allow a game to boot directly into "attract mode" when switched on. It also will not retain the settings such as the number of balls per game, the free play setting (obtained by setting maximum credits to 0), or high scores. However, a System 9 game will boot, and is still playable with the lack of batteries. To complete the boot sequence into attract mode, open the coin door, switch the game off, and then quickly back on. The game should leave audit mode, and go into attract mode. Credits would need to be added from the coin door, and if necessary, settings would need to be changed before starting a game.
The best option is to remotely locate the battery holder somewhere below all the other boards. This ensures that even if the remotely located batteries leak, they won't leak onto (or even drip onto) components of the MPU board. Use good quality alkaline batteries, mark the date of replacement with a Sharpie, and replace the batteries annually.
Adding a connector between the battery pack and the MPU board is a good idea. You can easily remove the battery pack from the board. Plus, if the batteries are forgotten, and do leak, the MPU board will not have to be removed to add another battery pack. A 3 x AA battery holder is the typical recommended replacement. If only a 4 x AA battery holder is available, a jumper can be soldered in the first battery position. Likewise, a diode can be placed in this position instead. This will prevent the batteries from being charged and 'cooked' by the game if blocking diode D3 on the MPU board fails. Keep in mind that adding a secondary diode to this circuit will decrease the voltage passing to the RAM memory by .5 to .7 volts (the typical voltage drop across a diode) if D3 is still good. Install a 1n4001 or 1N4004 diode in the position closest to the last + terminal (where the Red Wire exits). The banded side of the diode must be pointing in the direction of current flow, which is towards the (+) terminal marking on the MPU board, and away from the battery pack.
On the System 9 MPU, solder the battery cables: Ground (Black Wire) to the Bottom Left pad and Positive (Red Wire) to the Top Right.
After adding a remote battery pack, and while the board is still out of the game, it is a good practice to measure the battery pack's voltage at the (+) and (-) pads of the MPU board. All battery packs are pretty cheaply made, and failures "out of the box" are somewhat common. Checking to make certain the battery pack is functioning before reinstalling the MPU board in the game will save you some headaches.
Since the MPU board is already out, another good practice is to check the D3 blocking diode. An open blocking diode will not allow the battery pack voltage to pass through to the non-volatile memory, and the newly installed battery pack will be ineffective. Conversely, a shorted blocking diode will allow the board's +5vdc logic power bus to pass through to the battery pack. This in turn, will charge the batteries, while the game is turned on. Alkaline batteries do not like being charged. They will heat up, and fail prematurely, (rather quickly). In worse cases, the new batteries can even leak or explode if charged. Testing the D3 diode is quick and easy, and worth the trouble checking it out. When in doubt, replace the D3 diode with a 1N4148, or add a secondary 1N4004 to the battery pack. Once again, if a secondary diode is added, it will decrease the voltage passing to the 5517-2 RAM memory, if D3 is still good.
4.2.5 Relocating the battery from the System 11 MPU board
4.2.6 Installing NVRAM instead of batteries
Like most other pinball mpu boards, you can replace the battery-backed ram with a non-volatile memory ram. Unlike most other systems, you have to jumper around a diode so the game will boot. D1, a 1n5817 diode, has a very low forward voltage drop (about 0.2 volts) vs. the normal 0.4-0.6 volts most other diodes have. If you replace U25 with the memory ram, most memory ram will not unlock and allow writes until the voltage is 4.8 volts or so. The 1n5817 D1 diode is just enough to prevent most memory rams from allowing writes. To solve this, solder a jumper wire around the D1 terminals, or remove D1 entirely and replace with a jumper. Make sure you do not have batteries installed if you do this as they will simply short to ground, get hot, and leak. It's recommended to remove D2 and the battery holder entirely if you do this so this will never be a possibility, and write with a sharpie where the battery holder was "upgraded to NVRAM".
You need a replacement ram that can replace a 6116 or a 6264. These are becoming scarce, but there are other solutions available that use surface mount equivalents on a small circuit board that plugs into the RAM's socket. Unfortunately, U25 is soldered in on most system 11 boards and would need to be removed to replace with an NVRAM.
4.2.7 Installing a memory capacitor instead of batteries
A 5.5 volt 1.5 farad capacitor can be installed in place of batteries. To do so, remove the battery holder and install the + lead of the memory capacitor bent into a dogleg shape in the + hole that feeds diode D2. (The memory cap should be mounted slightly off the board. This is the purpose of the dogleg bend, but if you have a mica insulator that will work also.) Fold the - lead on the capacitor flat and solder a small jumper wire to it that goes to the main negative terminal where the battery holder was; this is diagonally opposite the + lead in most cases, but double check with a meter. Make sure you heat shrink this connection so it doesn't short out against any traces or pads in the area.
To allow the capacitor to charge, you need to jumper around diode D2, or remove it entirely and replace with a jumper wire. A full charge may take 8-12 hours, but once the memory capacitor is charged, turning the machine on for about 30 minutes a month is enough to keep the capacitor charged up.
4.2.8 Repairing Alkaline Corrosion
Remove the battery holder entirely from the MPU board and wash the board's affected areas with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water. Scrub the corrosion with a soft toothbrush, rinse with water, then rinse with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol to displace the water. Unfortunately on system 11 boards often the corrosion will eat into traces that are beneath PIA chips (U41/U42) requiring desoldering of those chips to remove the corrosion and repair traces.
4.2.9 Connecting a logic probe to the MPU
4.2.10 Using a PC Power Supply For Bench Testing
4.3 Game resets
System 9/11 games are far more tolerant of low line conditions vs. the newer WPC games. Some things to check if the game is resetting are the usual culprits for this type of thing: connectors, filter capacitors, slam switches, bad chip sockets, etc. It is good preventative maintenance to replace the +5 volt filter capacitor on the power supply with a new one; most of these are between 20-26 years old and might be getting to the point of wearing out. Certainly replace them if you are getting resetting on your system 11 game.
Most system 11 games give an indication that they've been slam tilted; if you're getting a "game reset" but you get a noise and/or a message on the displays beforehand, it is probably a slam switch issue vs. a true reset issue. Check all the slam switches in the game (usually the coin door is the main one, and also the ball roll tilt if present).
4.4 Solenoid problems
this is a stub
4.4.1 A/C solenoid/flasher problems
this is a stub
4.4.2 Special solenoid problems
this is a stub
4.5 Lamp problems
4.5.1 Lamp Matrix Row and Column Testing
The CPU logic for the lamp matrix can be tested by connecting a spare lamp using a jumper wire. The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.
Testing the lamp matrix columns:
Use the following procedure to test the TIP42 transistors that drive the lamp matrix columns. Note that a diode is not needed for these tests since it's function is to prevent interaction between the lamps in the matrix. In this test we are only connecting a single lamp at a time.
- Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).
- Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)
- Turn the game on and go to the "All Lamps" test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu. This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2
- Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
- Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
- The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working.
- Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J7. There is no pin 5 as it is the key.
If a column doesn't light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.
The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the column pins.
| Pin | Wire Colors | Lamp number | Transistor number |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1J7-1 | Yel-Brn | 1 | Q66 |
| 1J7-2 | Yel-Red | 9 | Q64 |
| 1J7-3 | Yel-Orn | 17 | Q62 |
| 1J7-4 | Yel-Blk | 25 | Q60 |
| 1J7-6 | Yel-Brn | 33 | Q58 |
| 1J7-7 | Yel-Blu | 41 | Q56 |
| 1J7-8 | Yel-Vio | 49 | Q54 |
| 1J7-9 | Yel-Gry | 57 | Q52 |
Testing the lamp matrix rows:
Use the following procedure to test the TIP102/122 transistors that drive the lamp matrix rows.
- Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J6 (row) and 1J7 (column).
- Unplug connectors 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right corner of CPU board)
- Turn the game on and go to the "All Lamps" test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu. This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 2
- Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J7 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
- Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J6 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
- The test lamp should flash to indicate that the column driver is working.
- Repeat the test for the pins 2 through 9 on 1J6. There is no pin 4 as it is the key.
If a row doesn't light or is stuck on, reference the lamp matrix table in the manual to identify the transistor to test.� The following table shows the lamp number and driving transistor for each of the row pins.
| Pin | Wire Colors | Lamp number | Transistor number |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1J6-1 | Red-Brn | 1 | Q80 |
| 1J6-2 | Red-Blk | 2 | Q81 |
| 1J6-3 | Red-Orn | 3 | Q82 |
| 1J6-5 | Red-Yel | 4 | Q83 |
| 1J6-6 | Red-Grn | 5 | Q84 |
| 1J6-7 | Red-Blu | 6 | Q85 |
| 1J6-8 | Red-Vio | 7 | Q86 |
| 1J6-9 | Red-Gry | 8 | Q87 |
4.6 Switch problems
4.6.1 Switch Matrix Row and Column Testing
The CPU logic for the switch matrix can be tested by simulating switch closures using
a jumper wire. The following sections show the separate procedures for testing the switch matrix columns and rows. The example is on a Sys11A PinBot, but applies to all Sys11 CPU boards.
Testing the switch matrix columns:
- Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).
- Turn the game on and go to the "Switch Edges" test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu. This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6
- Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10
- Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J10 pin 9, the leftmost pin on the connector
- Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
- The display should report that switch 1 was actuated. The test may report the switch name, refer to the switch matrix table in the manual to correlate the name to the switch number.
- Move the jumper to 1J8 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to row 1 in the switch matrix table
- Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J8. There is no pin 6 as it is the key.
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the column pins.
| Pin | Wire Colors | Switch number |
|---|---|---|
| 1J8-1 | Grn-Brn | 1 |
| 1J8-2 | Grn-Red | 9 |
| 1J8-3 | Grn-Orn | 17 |
| 1J8-4 | Grn-Yel | 25 |
| 1J8-5 | Grn-Blk | 33 |
| 1J8-7 | Grn-Blu | 41 |
| 1J8-8 | Grn-Vio | 49 |
| 1J8-9 | Grn-Gry | 57 |
Testing the switch matrix rows:
- Remove the backglass and open the insert to get access to CPU board connectors 1J8 (column) and 1J10 (row).
- Turn the game on and go to the "Switch Edges" test in the Test/Diagnostic Menu. This is done by opening the coin door an pressing: MANUAL-DOWN, ADVANCE, AUTO-UP, ADVANCE x 6
- Unplug connectors 1J8 and 1J10
- Clip one end of the test jumper to 1J8 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
- Touch the other end of the jumper to 1J10 pin 1, the rightmost pin on the connector
- The display should report that switch 1 was actuated
- Move the jumper to 1J10 pin 2 and check the reported switch by comparing to column 1 in the switch matrix table
- Continue to test the rest of the pins on 1J10. There is no pin 4 as it is the key.
The following table shows the switch number that should be reported for each of the row pins.
| Pin | Wire Colors | Switch number |
|---|---|---|
| 1J10-9 | Wht-Brn | 1 |
| 1J10-8 | Wht-Red | 2 |
| 1J10-7 | Wht-Orn | 3 |
| 1J10-6 | Wht-Yel | 4 |
| 1J10-5 | Wht-Blk | 5 |
| 1J10-3 | Wht-Blu | 6 |
| 1J10-2 | Wht-Vio | 7 |
| 1J10-1 | Wht-Gry | 8 |
4.7 Display problems
System 9/11 High Voltage Section Repair
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don't continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.
Check Voltages
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working.
On the Power Supply Board, use a DMM set to DC volts with the - lead grounded, probe the following connector
pins to determine if the HV section needs repair. If the display fuse, F1 is blowing,
you should remove the applicable display connector (with power off) before testing the voltages.
If you have Power Supply D-11883 or D-12246:
3J2 pin 1 = -100 volts DC
3J2 pin 3 = +100 volts DC
If you have Power Supply D-8345-xxx:
3J5 pin 3 = -100 volts DC
3J5 pin 4 = +100 volts DC
If the test points are more than about 5 volts out of spec, then your HV section may
be malfunctioning (if you or a previous owner replaced Z2/Z4 with 1N4763A diodes to purposely reduce the display voltage, test readings in the 90's range would be normal).
Check the table below for a solution.
Troubleshooting table
| Symptom | Possible Cause | Replacement |
| 0V ON BOTH +100/-100 lines | Check F1 | 1/4 Amp SB |
| 0V on +100V line | Open Diode D3 | 1N4004 |
| Open Q2 | 2N5401 | |
| Shorted Zeners ZR1, ZR2 | 1N4730A and 1N4763A | |
| Open Q1 | MJE340 | |
| Open R1 | 39k ohm, at least 1 watt | |
| 0V on -100V line | Open Diode D4 | 1N4004 |
| Open Q4 | 2N5551 | |
| Shorted Zeners ZR3, ZR4 | 1N4730A and 1N4763A | |
| Open Q3 | MJE350 | |
| Open R4 | 39k ohm, at least 1 watt | |
| F1 1/4 Amp Fuse Blows | Bad Capacitor at C1 and C3 | 100uF,150V |
| Shorted Display | Display Glass* | |
| Shorted UDN7180 | UDN7180* | |
| Shorted UDN6118 | UDN6118* | |
| +118V on +100V line | Shorted Q1 | MJE340 |
| -118V on -100V line | Shorted Q2 | MJE350 |
| * located on display board | ||
Display Fuse F1 Blows
Testing the UDN Chips
If the display fuse is blowing, you should check the display board for shorts before connecting
a new or rebuilt power supply to the display board, as a shorted display or chip can damage a good power
supply. Remove the display board from the system. The display characters are driven by the two types
of UDN chips, the UDN7180 & UDN6118 (or UDN6184). Locate these chips (there are several)
on the board and test them with your DMM set to diode check. Clip your + (RED)
lead to the ground trace of the board. Probe the UDN chips as shown in the diagram.
If any shorts are read in the tested pins, the display should not be connected to the power
supply until the shorts are corrected.
Shorts Are Found in UDN Chip Test
If a short reading is found in the tested pins (don't test the pins labeled 'dont care'), the UDN
chip should carefully be desoldered and removed from the board. Take care to preserve this chip,
as they are nearly impossible to find and expensive to replace. Now install an IC socket in its place.
Repeat the test with no chip installed. If the short is gone, then the UDN chip needs to be replaced.
If the short remains, then the display glass needs to be replaced.
Displays Test With no Shorts
Once the displays are tested and shorts are eliminated, we can proceed with the HV section repair.
Replacing the components in the HV Section
Since there are not that many components, if you are having problems isolating the
fault, a quick solution is to replace all the components in
the HV section. If only one side (+ or -) is failing, it is possible to rebuild only the failing side.
Check the parts section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the replacement parts for one or both failing sides:
| Part | +Side Part | -Side Part | +,-Location |
| Transistor | MJE340 (or MJE15030) | MJE350 (or MJE15031) | Q1,Q3 |
| Transistor | 2N5401 | 2N5551 | Q2,Q4 |
| Zener diode | 1N4730A | 1N4730A | Z1,Z3 |
| Zener diode | 1N4763A** | 1N4763A** | Z2,Z4 |
| Resistor | 39k Ohm,1W | 39k Ohm,1W | R1,R4 |
| Resistor | 680 Ohm,1/4W | 680 Ohm,1/4W | R2,R5 |
| Resistor | 330k Ohm,1/2W | 330k Ohm,1/2W | R3,R6 |
| Capacitor | 0.1uF,250V metal polyester | 0.1uF,250V metal polyester | C2,C4 |
| Capacitor | 100uF,150V | 100uF,150V | C1,C3 |
| **This is a 91V Zener to reduce the voltage to prolong display life | |||
Remove and replace HV components
- Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).
- Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.
- Stuff board with new components.
- Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.
- Leave a little space under components for air flow.
- Bend leads on components so they won't fall out when board is inverted for soldering.
- Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.
- Solder the parts to the board
- Clip excess off leads
NOTE ON INSTALLATION OF THE MJE340/MJE350 TRANSISTOR
The MJE340/MJE350 is the heat-sinked transistor. On most Williams boards, this transistor pin configuration is not the same as the original part. It will need to be installed vertically with heat sink attached to the transistor only. The transistor will sit at about a 45 degree angle so the legs can be lined up to fit in the correct holes.
Check your board and insure correct orientation before soldering in place. Late versions of the System 11 series boards were designed to use the pin configuration of the MJE340/MJE350 transistors.
Do not mount vertically if the power supply is designed to use the pin configurations of the newer transistors!
NOTE: The MJE15030/MJE15031 are rated for higher power and can be used instead of the MJE340/MJE350, but the MJE340/MJE350 are well within design specifications and are suitable replacements at 1/3 the cost of the MJE15030/MJE15031.
Ready to test
To test the rebuilt power supply, return to the "Check Voltages" section of this guide.
Other Resources
The System 9-11 HV section of the PSU is very similar in design to the earlier System 3-7. So it will be worth reading through the Sys 3-7 PSU Problems section entitled +/-100v Display HV Section of PSU, for some more detail. It also provides links to source complete HV rebuild kits which will normally cost under $10 shipped.
4.8 Sound problems
4.8.1 System 9
4.8.1.1 Jumper Settings for System 9 Speech Board
As mentioned above, the System 9 speech board is essentially the same as the System 6/7 speech board with one exception. The System 9 speech board has jumpers added to increase the flexibility of PROMs used. Either 2532 or 2732 EPROMs can be used. If using 2532 PROMs, install jumpers W2 and W4, and remove jumpers W1 and W3. If using 2732 EPROMs, install jumpers W1 and W3, and remove jumpers W2 and W4.
4.8.1.2 Using a System 6/7 Speech Board in a System 9
Should the need arise, a System 6/7 speech board can be modified to use 2732 EPROMs.
4.8.1.3 Missing Sound or Speech Calls
To start a sound test, simply press the SW2 momentary switch at the bottom of the CPU board located between connections 1J16 and 1J17. Once SW2 is pressed, the CPU will cycle through all of the sound / speech calls continuously. Each System 9 game has a chart located in the manual, which lists the speech and sound calls made during test. The benefit of the chart in the manual is that it lists the ROM where a particular call originates. If a particular sound / speech call is not heard, the associated ROM listed for that call may be bad.
4.8.1.4 Isolating the CPU Sound from the Speech Board
Some of the sound / speech calls originate from the CPU board, while the remaining calls originate from the speech board. If after running a game through sound test by pressing SW2, and some sounds are missing or very low in volume, a good idea is to isolate the CPU board from the speech board. All of the sounds originated on the CPU board, leave the board via the 40 pin ribbon cable, and go to the speech board for mixing. Once mixed, all of the sounds and speech are then returned to the CPU board, amplified, and sent out to the speakers.
Much like the System 6/7 sound and speech boards, the sound can be isolated from the speech board for testing purposes. The System 6/7 Type 2 sound board uses a jumper at position W1. When jumper W1 is installed, the sound board can be diagnosed without the speech board installed. The equivalent with the System 9 CPU board is jumper W10. This jumper is typically not connected. However, when it is connected, the sounds originating from the CPU board can be heard.
Locate jumper W10 on the CPU board. W10 is located to the right of SW2 on the board. There should be two very small wires clipped on either side of W10, as if W10 was installed and removed. With a alligator test lead, connect each alligator clip to the short leads of W10. If the short leads are not present, a short light gauge wire or wire wrap can be tack soldered to the solder pads of W10. With a jumper installed at W10, some sounds should be heard when SW2 is pressed. If no sounds are heard, further troubleshooting must be performed.
- Jumpering W10 on a System 9 CPU Board
Locating jumper W10 
Temporarily jumpering W10
4.8.2 System 11
System 11 games are known to have some amount of hum present in the sound. To minimize this interference, make sure all boards are secured tightly with all screws installed. This will insure the boards have a proper ground.
Another cause of hum could be an inconsistent +5 volts from the power driver board. An indicator of this being the cause of your hum would be the game occasionally resetting as well. Replacing caps C8 and C10 on the power board may fix this issue.
A special case of interference is present on the Jokerz game, which uses a unique stereo sound board. A deficiency in its design prevents all of the noise from being eliminated from the board. Details are available on the original service bulletin here: Jokerz service bulletin at IPDB.org
4.9 Flipper problems
4.10 Pop bumper problems
5 Repair Logs
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.
5.1 System 9
- Battery corrosion -- but no leaks.
- Display Power Supply voltage problem.
- All displays are dead.
- All ramps are damaged to some degree. The middle ramp is warped.
5.2 System 11
Space Station Pinball Repair Log
- Display Power Supply voltage problem (+/- 100v = 120v/-130v).
- Player 3 Display is out.
- Left Dock Kicker (does not kick).
- Shooter Lane: 2 balls at same time.
- Top Pop Bumper (does not bump).
- Flipper Rebuild:
- Right Flipper is sloppy.
- Right Dock: ball cannot escape.
- Stuck switches (x 5).
- Rubbers need replacing.
- Shooter power barely/not always enough to get ball to top of playfield.
- General Illumination (G.I.): Left side is completely out.