View source for Taito Ice Cold Beer

= PinSide ICB Owners Thread =
A very lengthy thread regarding the Taito ICB model can be found [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ice-cold-beer-icb-owners-thread <b><u>here</b></u>].

= Test Point Typical Values =
The following behavior represents correct operation for a fully working MPU board<br>

R (reset) - transition from low to high at power on<br>
E (clock) - pulsing<br>
IRQ (interrupt request) - high<br>
FIRQ - pulsing high<br>
HZ30 - pulsing rapidly<br>
SINT - pulsing rapidly<br>
Timer - low<br>
MOTENBL (motor enable) - low<br>
SWIRQ - low<br>

= Florescent Lamp =
The original playfield lamp is an F15T12. The fluorescent light degrades the paint on the backglass. 
The florescent tube can be replaced with a modern LED, such as TBD.

= DIP Switch Settings=
[[File:ICBDIPSwitchSettings.jpg|400px|thumb|left| This image from the ICB manual, was also stapled to the inside of the rear door.]]
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=Component Image Gallery=
[[File:ICB-PS-Front.jpg ‎|600px|thumb|left|Power Supply Top View]]
[[File:ICB-PS-Back.jpg ‎|600px|thumb|right|Power Supply Bottom View]]
[[File:TaitoICBBottomBoardPCB.jpg ‎|600px|thumb|left|Power Supply PCB Schematic]]
[[File:ICBBottomBoardPowerPCB.jpg ‎|600px|thumb|right|Power Supply PCB Component Side. Note addition of 1000uf/63V capacitor as shown in the schematic]]
[[File:ICB-PS-PCB-Front.jpg ‎|600px|thumb|left|Power Supply PCB Component Side]]
[[File:ICB-PS-PCB-Back.jpg ‎|600px|thumb|right|Power Supply PCB Solder Side. Fractured solder joints can be problematic for this board]]
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=MPU and "Diode Check" Map=
[[File:ICBMPUFront.jpg |600px|thumb|left|PCB Component Side]]
[[File:ICBMPUBack.jpg |600px|thumb|right|PCB Solder Side]]
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[[File:Placeholder.jpg |800px|thumb|right|Diode Check Results]]<br>
The image at right shows "diode test" results for the entire board.
<b>Procedure</b><br>
*set meter to diode check
*red probe on ground
*black probe used to test every other pin of each IC
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= Taito Service Tips=
The following service tips were issued by Taito, and cover...
*Weak errant ball solenoid
*Ball sticks between hole and bar in attract mode (ROM revision)
*Lubrication of side rods
*Ramifications of stuck switch in the switch matrix

[[File:ROM_Version_Service_Bulletin_Page_1.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Weak errant ball solenoid ]]
[[File:ROM_Version_Service_Bulletin_Page_2.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Ball sticks between hole and bar in attract mode (ROM revision) ]]
[[File:ROM_Version_Service_Bulletin_Page_3.jpg|400px|thumb|left|Lubrication of side rods]]
[[File:ROM_Version_Service_Bulletin_Page_4.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Ramifications of stuck switch in the switch matrix ]]
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=Diagnostics=
[[File:YT.png]] A video demonstrating MPU diagnostics can be found [https://youtu.be/XJtzrMd16wM here].

= Connector Pin-out =
[[File:ICBEdgeConnectorSpec.png|800px|thumb|left| Interface condensed by <i>Chris Hibler</i>.]]

= Parts Bill of Materials =
This PBOM is subject to typos.<br>
Please submit corrections to Chris Hibler (chrishiblerpinball AT gmail.com). Thanks!
[[File:ICBPBOMIcon.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Knot hole view, ICB PBOM]]<br>
A detailed PBOM sorted by part designation as well as in traditional parts count order can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/1/11/Ice_Cold_Beer_Detailed_PBOM.pdf <b><i>here</i></b>].
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= Motor Replacement =

Replacement motors for Ice Cold Beer were available from Twisty Arcade a few years ago. The installation procedure for this motor, or an equivalent can be found below. The principle part of the job is to transfer the gear from the old motor shaft to the new motor shaft, and modify the motor bracket to mate to the new motor.

The motor from Twisty Arcade came with a 6.2ohm, 5W resistor. It may be necessary to replace this part with a 10ohm, 5W resistor to slow the motor a bit more. If your game raises the bar too far to "serve" the ball, install a replacement resistor of perhaps 8.2ohm, 5W, or even the 10ohm part.

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<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption="Taito Ice Cold Beer Replacement Motor Installation">
File:ICBReplacementMotorToInstall.jpg|<center><b>The replacement motor to be installed. The motor comes with an inline current limiting resistor (6.2ohm, 5W) to slow the new motor speed to close to the original motor speed.</b></center>
File:ICBOEMMotorBracket.jpg|<center><b>The OEM bracket, showing 4 motor attach points.</b></center>
File:ICBOEMMotor.jpg|<center><b>The OEM Motor, showing the gear to be transferred to the new motor.</b></center>
File:ICBHackMotorShaft.jpg|<center><b>Use a hack saw to cut the shaft off the original motor.</b></center>
File:ICBPunchGear.jpg|<center><b>Position the shaft/gear in a vise but don't tighten the vise on the shaft. Punch out the old shaft.</b></center>
File:ICBInstallGear.jpg|<center><b>With the "tail" of the new motor shaft on a solid surface, gently tap the original gear onto the new motor shaft.</b></center>
File:ICBNewGearInstalled.jpg|<center><b>The original gear, installed on the new motor shaft. Note that the shaft doesn't quite come to the gear edge, so that it mates correctly when installed into the gearbox.</b></center>
File:ICBBracketMod.jpg|<center><b>Enlarge the hole in the original bracket to 13mm. Here a 1/2" bit in a drill press (clamp the part down before drilling) is used to remove most of the material...</b></center>
File:ICBHoleEnlarge.jpg|<center><b>...and then a rat tail file is used to complete the enlargement.</b></center>
File:ICBModifiedBracketInstalled.jpg|<center><b>The original bracket, deburred, and installed on the new motor. Two screws are sufficient to hold the motor in place.</b></center>
File:ICBReplacementMotorGearInstalledView.jpg|<center><b>A view of the new motor and original gear, perfectly aligned with the motor gearbox.</b></center>
File:INewMotor.jpg|<center><b>The new motor, in place, ready to go.</b></center>
</gallery>
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