Difference between revisions of "Terminator 2: Judgement Day"
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[[Image:Terminator2DiodeTiebackWireAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The violet/orange "diode tieback" wire, attached to the power side of the drop target reset coil in Terminator 2. <i>Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.</i>]] | [[Image:Terminator2DiodeTiebackWireAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|The violet/orange "diode tieback" wire, attached to the power side of the drop target reset coil in Terminator 2. <i>Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.</i>]] | ||
[[Image:Terminator2-Q20ViolentExposionCropped.jpg |200px|thumb|right|Q20, with a major malfunction, due to the diode tieback wire connection being missing. <i>Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.</i>]]<br> | [[Image:Terminator2-Q20ViolentExposionCropped.jpg |200px|thumb|right|Q20, with a major malfunction, due to the diode tieback wire connection being missing. <i>Photo Credit: John Wart Jr.</i>]]<br> | ||
| − | Similar to the common problem that [ | + | Similar to the common problem that [[Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail|Star Trek: The Next Generation]] owners encounter, Terminator 2 can lose the "diode tieback" connection, causing Q20 to fail, as pictured on the right. |
| − | Without this "diode tieback", Q20 on the driver board WILL be damaged and the associated coil is likely to become locked on and melt. The diode tie-back wire is violet/orange and connects from the coil power side on the drop target assembly coil lug to J122 pin 9 on the driver board. If the solder connection at the coil lug is solid, suspect the wire connection at the J122 IDC connector. Repinning this connection with good | + | Without this "diode tieback", Q20 on the driver board WILL be damaged and the associated coil is likely to become locked on and melt. The diode tie-back wire is violet/orange and connects from the coil power side on the drop target assembly coil lug to J122 pin 9 on the driver board. If the solder connection at the coil lug is solid, suspect the wire connection at the J122 IDC connector. Repinning this connection with a good quality crimp-on Trifurcon pin is advised. |
<br clear=all> | <br clear=all> | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Image:T2IllustratedTiebackDiode.jpg|200px|thumb|left|<i>Illustration provided with permission of Sascha Voskuil aka Zaza.</i>]]<br> | ||
| + | Another very reliable way to ensure that the diode tieback never loses connectivity, is to connect an additional wire, as pictured at left. Jumper a wire (preferably purple/orange) from Power/Driver board J122 pin 9 to Power/Driver board J107 pin 2. The original purple/orange wire can be extracted from the wire bundle and used for this purpose or you can simply leave it connected as it originally was as "insurance". The end result is functionally and electrically identical, but has the advantage of moving the diode tieback connection away from the high vibration/shock environment at the single drop target coil. | ||
| + | <br clear=all> | ||
| + | |||
| + | Yet another solution is to add a clamping diode onto the single drop target knock down coil, in the same way that Williams System 11/11A and earlier platforms where diodes are used. The 11B/C and WPC systems moved all coil diodes (except flippers) onto the aux. power driver board and power/driver board respectively. This eliminated any possibility of wiring a coil "backwards". Attaching diodes to coils can still be done, but the proper polarity of the connections is very important. The non-banded side of the diode connects to the path to ground (usually a skinny wire). The banded side of the diode connects to the power source (usually a fatter wire, not that there is anything wrong with being a little fat...all wires matter...). Caution is warranted as connecting the diode backwards will blow the diode and the drive transistor immediately. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==Specific Coils Don't Receive Voltage== | ||
| + | The wires that supply power to the coils and are daisy chained among the coils, so if one connection is bad, the coils daisy chained after it will not receive power. Common causes for failure could be a bad solder joint on the coil's lug, or a wire that could have broken off from the lug. Be sure to wiggle the wires to make sure they are not loose or broken and not rely solely on a visual inspection. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Outhole and Gun=== | ||
| + | If the outhole and gun coils don't fire and are not receiving voltage, remove the apron and check the kickback coil's purple/yellow wires. | ||
| + | ===Outhole, Gun, and Kickback=== | ||
| + | If the outhole, gun, and kickback coils don't fire and are not receiving voltage, check the left slingshot coil's purple/yellow wires. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==Right Flipper Can Be Activated In Attract Mode== | ||
| + | If the right flipper can be activated in attract mode, it's likely that a leaf on the flipper switch is making contact with the bell end of the shooter lane's plunger. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Some new replacement switches have a shorter spring leaf, which necessitates them to be moved up a screw hole on the cabinet in order to make good contact with the flipper button. The result of moving the switch up is that the switch stack gets jammed against the bell end of the plunger. If this is the case, the switch stack will need to be returned to its original position. If possible, take the spring leaf from an original flipper switch stack and transplant it into the new flipper switch stack so that the flipper button can make good contact with the spring leaf. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Additionally, it may be a good idea to insulate the leaf making contact with the plunger with a piece of fish paper or electrical tape as a precaution. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[file:T2-flipper-switch-issue.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Right flipper switch stack making contact with the bell end of the shooter lane's plunger]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[file:T2-flipper-switch-insulation.jpg|thumb|left|250px|New right flipper switch stack with an original spring leaf and electrical tape for insulation]]<br clear=all> | ||
| + | |||
Return to [[Williams WPC]] page. | Return to [[Williams WPC]] page. | ||
Latest revision as of 22:57, 3 July 2019
| Manufacturer | System | Year | Model | Produced |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Williams | WPC-Dot Matrix | 1991 | 50013 | 15,202 |
Terminator 2: Judgement Day Playing Tips and Rule Sheet
Terminator 2: Judgement Day Shop Guide
1 Game-Specific Issues
1.1 Diode "Tie Back" missing causes Driver Board transistor Q20 to fail
Similar to the common problem that Star Trek: The Next Generation owners encounter, Terminator 2 can lose the "diode tieback" connection, causing Q20 to fail, as pictured on the right.
Without this "diode tieback", Q20 on the driver board WILL be damaged and the associated coil is likely to become locked on and melt. The diode tie-back wire is violet/orange and connects from the coil power side on the drop target assembly coil lug to J122 pin 9 on the driver board. If the solder connection at the coil lug is solid, suspect the wire connection at the J122 IDC connector. Repinning this connection with a good quality crimp-on Trifurcon pin is advised.
Another very reliable way to ensure that the diode tieback never loses connectivity, is to connect an additional wire, as pictured at left. Jumper a wire (preferably purple/orange) from Power/Driver board J122 pin 9 to Power/Driver board J107 pin 2. The original purple/orange wire can be extracted from the wire bundle and used for this purpose or you can simply leave it connected as it originally was as "insurance". The end result is functionally and electrically identical, but has the advantage of moving the diode tieback connection away from the high vibration/shock environment at the single drop target coil.
Yet another solution is to add a clamping diode onto the single drop target knock down coil, in the same way that Williams System 11/11A and earlier platforms where diodes are used. The 11B/C and WPC systems moved all coil diodes (except flippers) onto the aux. power driver board and power/driver board respectively. This eliminated any possibility of wiring a coil "backwards". Attaching diodes to coils can still be done, but the proper polarity of the connections is very important. The non-banded side of the diode connects to the path to ground (usually a skinny wire). The banded side of the diode connects to the power source (usually a fatter wire, not that there is anything wrong with being a little fat...all wires matter...). Caution is warranted as connecting the diode backwards will blow the diode and the drive transistor immediately.
1.2 Specific Coils Don't Receive Voltage
The wires that supply power to the coils and are daisy chained among the coils, so if one connection is bad, the coils daisy chained after it will not receive power. Common causes for failure could be a bad solder joint on the coil's lug, or a wire that could have broken off from the lug. Be sure to wiggle the wires to make sure they are not loose or broken and not rely solely on a visual inspection.
1.2.1 Outhole and Gun
If the outhole and gun coils don't fire and are not receiving voltage, remove the apron and check the kickback coil's purple/yellow wires.
1.2.2 Outhole, Gun, and Kickback
If the outhole, gun, and kickback coils don't fire and are not receiving voltage, check the left slingshot coil's purple/yellow wires.
1.3 Right Flipper Can Be Activated In Attract Mode
If the right flipper can be activated in attract mode, it's likely that a leaf on the flipper switch is making contact with the bell end of the shooter lane's plunger.
Some new replacement switches have a shorter spring leaf, which necessitates them to be moved up a screw hole on the cabinet in order to make good contact with the flipper button. The result of moving the switch up is that the switch stack gets jammed against the bell end of the plunger. If this is the case, the switch stack will need to be returned to its original position. If possible, take the spring leaf from an original flipper switch stack and transplant it into the new flipper switch stack so that the flipper button can make good contact with the spring leaf.
Additionally, it may be a good idea to insulate the leaf making contact with the plunger with a piece of fish paper or electrical tape as a precaution.
Return to Williams WPC page.