Difference between revisions of "Viza Manufacturing"

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==Fabulous 50's==
 
==Fabulous 50's==
 
Unfortunately, not much is known about this game.
 
Unfortunately, not much is known about this game.
 +
 +
Photos of two examples of Viza's Fabulous 50's cocktail game finally [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/someone-got-two-rare-cocktails-today-viza-fabulos-50-s surfaced on Pinside] in early 2021.
 +
 +
It was contracted by Allied Leisure and similar to other Allied Leisure cocktail games.
  
 
==War==
 
==War==
Line 13: Line 17:
 
The playfield artwork is taken from a portion of Frank Frazetta's painting "[http://frankfrazetta.net/Berserker.html The Berserker]"
 
The playfield artwork is taken from a portion of Frank Frazetta's painting "[http://frankfrazetta.net/Berserker.html The Berserker]"
  
−
This game appears to include both [[ALI/Fascination_Repair|Allied Leisure]] and [[Gameplan_Repair|GamePlan]] playfield parts, as well as various game-specific parts.
+
This game appears to include a few game-specific parts as well as parts from other manufacturers, such as [[ALI/Fascination_Repair|Allied Leisure]], [[Brunswick_/_Briarwood|Brunswick]], and [[Wico]].
  
−
It is speculated that there were around 100 games manufactured.
+
It is speculated that there were around 100-200 games manufactured.
  
 
This game went through a few playfield and cabinet variations during production.
 
This game went through a few playfield and cabinet variations during production.
  
−
Early games used a discrete board system and relays to operate the game, and also used chimes for sound. Later games used just two boards--an MPU and power supply board, and used electronic sounds. Both games used LED digit segment displays. It is one of the first, if not the first example of LED digit segment displays being used instead of high-voltage glass segment displays. GamePlan Used LED digit segment displays in their first game, Sharpshooter, the following year.
+
Early games used an [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6337 EM-style system] and relays to operate the game, with small PCBs for the digital displays, and also used chimes for sound. [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2753 Later games] used just two boards--an MPU and power supply board, as well as digital displays and electronic sounds. Both games used digit LED segment displays. It is one of the first, if not the first example of LED digit segment displays being used instead of high-voltage glass segment displays. GamePlan Used LED digit segment displays in their first game, Sharpshooter, the following year.
  
 
Paperwork, manuals, and schematics have not surfaced for either variant of this game.
 
Paperwork, manuals, and schematics have not surfaced for either variant of this game.
 +
 +
=Documentation=
 +
Paperwork, manuals, and schematics have not surfaced for either the early or later variant of this game.
 +
 +
Datasheets are available from a variety of sources for the active electronics components.
 +
 +
The following custom documentation was created/assembled to be as accurate as possible, but they may be incomplete or contain errors since they were not based on any known available/official manufacturer documentation.
 +
 +
'''MPU Layout & Pinout'''
 +
 +
[[file:Viza-war-mpu-compnent-layout.jpg|left|thumb|250px|MPU Component layout diagram]]
 +
[[file:Viza-war-mpu-layout-sections.jpg|left|thumb|250px|MPU functional layout sections diagram]]
 +
[[File:Viza-war-mpu-pinout.gif|thumb|left|250px|MPU Pinout]]<br clear=all>
 +
 +
[[media:Viza-war-mpu-layout-pinout.zip|Viza War MPU Layout & Pinout diagrams - LibreOffice Source File]]
 +
 +
'''Score Display Pinout'''
 +
* 1: Ball 1 LED
 +
* 2: Ball 2 LED
 +
* 3: Ball 3 LED
 +
* 4: Ball 4 LED
 +
* 5: Ball 5 LED
 +
* 6: 1000 Points
 +
* 7: 100 Points
 +
* 8: 10,000 Points
 +
* 9: LED Power/GND?
 +
* 10: Power/GND?
 +
* 11: Power/GND?
 +
* 12: Power/GND?
 +
* 13: Player 1 LED
 +
* 14: Player 2 LED
 +
* 15: Game Over LED
 +
* 16: Ball This Side LED
 +
* 17: N/C
 +
* 18: N/C
 +
 +
'''Rubber Chart'''
 +
[[File:Viza-war-rubber-chart.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Rubber Diagram]]
 +
* A: 1.5" Rubber (4)
 +
* B: 3" Rubber (2)
 +
* C: 3.5" Rubber (6)
 +
* D: 3" Flipper rubber (6)
 +
<br clear=all>
  
 
=Technical Info=
 
=Technical Info=
 
==Boardset==
 
==Boardset==
−
===Early Games===
+
===EM Games===
−
===Later Games===
+
===Solid State Games===
 +
====MPU====
 +
The MPU controls the game logic, switch inputs, sound, feature lamps, solenoids (including all 8 flippers), and scoring data.
 +
 
 +
Two interesting features that weren't seen again for at least a decade were computer-controlled flippers and indicator lights for fuses.
 +
 
 +
A good portion of the PCB is used by flipper controls. The 8 large tube-shaped resistors, 16 transistors, and a dozen ICs connected in some way to driving the transistors for the flippers. The flippers are controlled entirely by the MPU, so there are no end-of-stroke switches on the flipper assemblies. There is also a game feature where the opposite player's flippers can be disabled for a short period of time by hitting a specific target, which explains the need for some of the additional logic for controlling the flippers.
 +
 
 +
The MPU has four potentiometers installed on the board, which each control tone and volume.
 +
 
 +
Scoring is handled by each of the player's score displays, rather than the MPU. The MPU has no involvement with keeping scores. However, the score switches are still connected to the MPU, but only to trigger and provide sounds when a score switch his hit.
 +
 
 +
<gallery widths=250px>
 +
File:viza-war-mpu-front.jpg|MPU (Front)
 +
File:viza-war-mpu-back.jpg|MPU (Back)
 +
File:viza-war-mpu-back-factory-mod.jpg|MPU Factory Modification (Back) for 10-ball play
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Some MPUs have a factory modification on the back of the board on the 7445 chip which enables 10-ball play. 10 balls per game extended the game time, but since there were only 5 LEDs to indicate the number of balls, this is sometimes misidentified as a game malfunction. The modification can be reversed by reconnecting the cut traces, and it will re-enable 5-ball play.
 +
 
 +
====Power Supply====
 +
The power supply is fairly straight-forward. It takes the voltages from the transformer, rectifies them, and filters them, before being supplied to the rest of the game.
 +
 
 +
One interesting feature that wasn't seen again for at least a decade was the indicator lights for fuses.
 +
 
 +
<gallery widths=250px>
 +
File:viza-war-power-supply-front.jpg|Power Supply (Front)
 +
File:viza-war-power-supply-back.jpg|Power Supply (Back)
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Regulator====
 +
This game uses a LM323K 3A 5V fixed regulator to accept 12v and produce 5v.
 +
 
 +
The wiring colors for the connector aren't quite standard. The red wire is +12v in, the yellow wire is 5v out, and black is ground. Normally, under most circumstances, red would signify 5v and yellow would signify 12v, but for some reason, the wiring colors are reversed.
 +
<gallery widths=250px>
 +
File:viza-war_ss_regulator-front.jpg|Regulator (Front)
 +
File:Viza-war_ss_regulator-back.jpg‎|Regulator (Back)
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Score Display====
 +
The score display has 6 digits, but only four of those digits ever actually change. The digits in the ones and tens places are permanently set as zeros.
 +
 
 +
An interesting note is that all the 100 point switches are tied together for each side, and the 1000 point switches for each side are tied together. The score switches connect to the appropriate player's score display, and the displays are responsible to tallying the scores for each player. The MPU has no involvement with keeping scores. However, the score switches are still connected to the MPU, but only to trigger and provide sounds when a score switch his hit.
 +
 
 +
<gallery widths=250px>
 +
File:viza-war-display-front.jpg|Score Display (Front)
 +
File:viza-war-display-back.jpg|Score Display (Back)
 +
File:viza-war-display-mod-back.jpg|Factory Modification (Back)
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
==Game Theory & Operation==
 +
===Solid State Games===
 +
The solid state games were configured for 2-player head-to-head gameplay only, with player 1 (side 1) being on the side with the coin door, and player 2 (side 2) being on the opposite side. Adding one credit will start a 1-player game. Adding two credits will start a 2-player game.
 +
 
 +
===EM Games===
 +
The EM games were configured for either 1-player or 2-player gameplay (selectable using a toggle switch near the coin door), and with player 1 (side 1) being on the side with the coin door, and player 2 (side 2) being on the opposite side.
 +
 
 +
==Playfield Variations==
 +
 
 +
This game appears to include a few game-specific parts as well as parts from other manufacturers, such as [[ALI/Fascination_Repair|Allied Leisure]], [[Brunswick_/_Briarwood|Brunswick]], and [[Wico]]. With the later playfields, the Allied Leisure parts appeared to be substituted for parts from other manufacturers because it was possible that Viza may have run out of Allied Leisure assemblies to use.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable sortable"
 +
|-
 +
!Assembly
 +
!Early Playfield
 +
!Most Playfields
 +
!Later Playfield
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
!Saucer Kickout Assembly
 +
|Brunswick (2)
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|-
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
!Slingshot Assembly
 +
|Brunswick (2)
 +
|Brunswick (4)
 +
|Brunswick (4)
 +
|-
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
!Pop Bumper Assembly
 +
|Allied Leisure (2)
 +
|Brunswick (2)
 +
|Brunswick (2)
 +
|-
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
!Flipper Assembly
 +
|Wico (8)
 +
|Wico (8)
 +
|Wico (8)
 +
|-
 +
 
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
!Outhole kickout Assembly
 +
|Allied Leisure (2)
 +
|Allied Leisure (2)
 +
|Wico (2), hole covered, Wico linear coil assembly substituted
 +
|-
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
!Shooter Lane Linear Coil Assembly
 +
|Wico (2)
 +
|Wico (2)
 +
|Wico (2)
 +
|-
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
!Flipper Kill Area Switches
 +
|? (2), wire lever & stacked switch
 +
|Allied Leisure (2), rollover buttons
 +
|? (2)
 +
|-
 +
 
 +
 
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
==Free Play==
 +
Most owners end up adding a credit button on the bottom panel of the cabinet. However, if this is done, make sure the button is level with the bottom surface. This is to prevent the button from being broken off when the legs are removed.
 +
 
 +
A second method is to repurpose a coin reject button. Remove one of the coin chutes by bending the tab holding it together. Slide the chute cover off, screw a coin switch with a long wire to it, reattach the chute cover, bend the tab, and finally, adjust the switch wire so it activates the switch when the reject button is pressed.
 +
 
 +
<gallery widths=150px>
 +
file:viza-war-free-play-coin-switch-1.jpg|Coin switch screwed to the chute
 +
file:viza-war-free-play-coin-switch-2.jpg|Note the switch wire under the right reject mechanism
 +
file:viza-war-free-play-coin-switch-3.jpg|Labels with instructions to indicate to new players what to do
 +
</gallery><br clear=all>
  
 
=Problems & Fixes=
 
=Problems & Fixes=
 +
==Volume & Sound Adjustments==
 +
[[file:Viza-war-volumne-adjustment.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Volume Adjustment]]There are four potentiometers on the MPU of Viza War that are used to adjust sound.
 +
 +
One potentiometer is used to adjust the pitch/tone of the 1000 point scoring sound, and another is used for the 100 point scoring sound. A third is used for adjusting the volume of the point scoring sounds. Lastly, the fourth potentiometer is used to adjust the volume of the remaining noises and sound effects.
 +
 +
If any adjustments result in scratching sounds from the speaker, that usually means the potentiometers (10K ohm) are dirty and may need to be replaced.<br clear=all>
 +
 +
==More than 5 balls per game==
 +
Some MPUs have a factory modification on the back of the board on the 7445 chip which enables 10-ball play. 10 balls per game extended the game time, but since there were only 5 LEDs to indicate the number of balls, this is sometimes misidentified as a game malfunction. The modification can be reversed by reconnecting the cut traces on the 7447 chip, and also a cut trace between the 74C90 and 7432 chips. This will re-enable 5-ball play.
 +
 +
[[File:viza-war-mpu-back-factory-mod.jpg|thumb|left|250px|MPU Factory Modification (Back) for 10-ball play]]<br clear=all>
 +
 +
[[File:viza-war-mpu-back-factory-mod-undo.jpg|thumb|left|250px|MPU modification (Back) for changing from 10-ball play back to 5-ball play]]<br clear=all>
 +
 +
==Playfield Solenoids Not Working==
 +
Note: The flippers operate on different circuitry than the playfield solenoids (slingshots, kickers, and pop bumpers).
 +
 +
After ruling out connector problems, wiring problems, and transistor problems, check the two 7404  chips in the lower left hand corner of the MPU. If one or both of those chips are bad, some or all of the playfield solenoids may not fire.
 +
 +
==Flippers not working==
 +
Note: The flippers operate on different circuitry than the playfield solenoids (slingshots, kickers, and pop bumpers).
 +
 +
The flippers operate on two voltages, so there are two sets of transistors--one set for high voltage, and one set for low/hold voltage. The large 20W resistors knock the high solenoid voltage down to the lower hold voltage.
 +
 +
The bottom row of four 5408 chips drive the transistors for the flippers. If a pair of flippers is not working, it is likely that one of these four chips that corresponds to the non-working flippers is bad.
 +
 +
On the next row up, there is a row of 6 chips. There is a 5408 chip on the far left and far right of the board. These chips are directly connected to the flipper buttons. If a right half or left half of a player's flippers are not working (or if all of one player's flippers are not working), it is likely that a chip that corresponds to the non-working flippers is bad.
 +
 +
==Only the Middle Flippers Work==
 +
Viza War had a 1-player mode in addition to a 2-player mode. In 2-player mode, each player controls a set of four flippers.
 +
 +
In 1-player mode, the player on side 1 (the side with the coin door) only controls the middle flippers. The middle flippers on side 2 also fire in addition to the flippers on side 1.
 +
 +
To play using 2-player mode, add two credits. To play using 1-player mode, only add one credit.
 +
 +
==Long Tone/Squeal at Power Up==
 +
If there is a long tone/squeal that comes on and stays on after turning the game on, one or both of the 555 timer chips associated with sound may be malfunctioning.
 +
 +
==Various sounds when turning off the game==
 +
When the game is turned off, a series of various jumbled sounds and tones will be emitted from the game for a few seconds that gradually drop in pitch. This is normal for this game, and not actually a problem.
 +
 +
==Can't Add Credit and/or Coin Door Lamp is Out==
 +
If players cannot add a credit to the game and the door lamp is out (even when a known good bulb is used), there may be a problem with the black ground wire, since both the lamp and coin switches share the same ground wire (as does the play count meter). The ground wire ultimately ends up on the power supply board's top connector at pin 13.
 +
 +
If only the coin door lamp is out, make sure the diode's banded side is facing away from the lamp socket.
 +
 +
[[file:viza-war-coin-door-lamp-socket.jpg|thumb|left|250px]]<br clear=all>
 +
 +
==Score display is missing one or more segments on a segment display==
 +
Unfortunately, it is more likely for segments on these segment displays to fail, rather than the chips driving them.
  
−
=Parts Substitutions & Replacements=
+
The score displays use FND507 LED displays. These are 1/2", red, common anode, 20mA, seven segment displays.
−
==Electronics==
+
 
−
==Chips==
+
Replacements may need to be sourced by using the specs listed in the [[media:Fnd507-numeric-segment-display.pdf|FND507 datasheet]]. A LTS542R or ZD1857 may be viable replacements, but these have not been tested.
−
* 5408 chips can be replaced by 7408 chips, but it is recommended to use 74f08 chips since 5v is tied to various inputs on various chips in many cases.
+
 
 +
==Lost Key & Cabinet Lock Replacement Options==
 +
Unfortunately, the spring lock used on the cabinet is fairly obscure, and not a common arcade-style lock.
 +
 
 +
Since it is unlikely that this game will be placed on location, there are two options to open the cabinet.
 +
 
 +
The first is to use a hacksaw to saw through the exposed portion of the lock's deadbolt. This will disable the lock, but leave the face of the lock unharmed for cosmetic purposes.
 +
 
 +
The second method is to drill out the face of the lock just like any other arcade lock. If this is done, then the metal housing will have to be unscrewed from the cabinet, and then the retaining screw on lock's barrel can be removed, in order to remove the barrel from the housing. After the housing is refastened to the cabinet, a black 3/4" hole plug can be used to plug the hole. Hole plugs can be obtained from most big box hardware stores.
 +
 
 +
[[file:Viza-war-black-hole-plug.jpg|thumb|150px|left|Black hole plug]]<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=Restoration & Disassembly=
 +
 
 +
==Outhole Kicker Disassembly==
 +
Because this game uses plastic parts, it is necessary to be extra careful when disassembling assemblies, especially the outhole kicker assembly. Improper disassembly may result in this:
 +
 
 +
[[file:viza-war_outhole-kicker-assembly_broken.jpg|thumb|center|250px|Broken base plate]]<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Read through the following steps first before attempting disassembly.
  
−
=Recommended Modifications=
+
# Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the metal coil bracket to the plastic base plate. Do *NOT* attempt to remove the coil bracket from the base plate. Many base plates have likely been broken and shattered by people attempting this. Note that there is still the end of a screw poking up through the foot of the coil bracket. This is screwed in from the underside of the base plate.
 +
# Unscrew the four screws holding the base plate to the playfield.
 +
# Flip the base plate over, and unscrew the phillips screw holding the coil bracket to the plastic base plate.
 +
# Unscrew the two screws holding the switch to the base plate.
 +
# If it's necessary to remove the kicker arm, use needle nose pliers to remove the E-clips, and carefully push the small end of plastic pins out.
 +
# To re-assemble, simply perform all the disassembly steps in reverse order. However, note that the compression spring on the plunger needs to be oriented so the end of the spring is flush against the plastic link, or the plunger will bind up when it fires.
  
−
=Documentation=
+
<gallery widths="250px">
−
Paperwork, manuals, and schematics have not surfaced for either the early or later variant of this game.
+
file:viza-war_outhole-kicker-assembly.jpg|Outhole Kicker Assembly
 +
file:viza-war_outhole-kicker-assembly_remove-screws.jpg|Step 1, remove screws
 +
file:viza-war_outhole-kicker-assembly_remove-screws_underside.jpg|Step 3, Remove Screw
 +
file:viza-war_outhole-kicker-assembly_compression-spring-position.jpg|Step 6, Compression Spring Position
 +
</gallery><br clear=all>
  
−
Datasheets are available from a variety of sources for the active electronics components.
+
=Parts Substitutions & Replacements=
 +
==Electronics==
 +
===Chips===
 +
* 5408 chips can be replaced by 7408 chips, but it is recommended to use 7408 or 74F08 chips, especially for the chips driving transistors. For the game logic chips that are not driving transistors, 74HCT08 chips can be used. 74LS08 will not work since the input and output voltage tolerances are too low on the LS variant of the chip. 74HC08 chips will not function at all.

Latest revision as of 17:07, 28 November 2021

1 Introduction

Viza Manufacturing was a short-lived manufacturing company best known for its 1978 Viza War 2-player head-to-head cocktail table. Viza Manufacturing was contracted to build games by Allied Leisure.

2 Games

2.1 Fabulous 50's

Unfortunately, not much is known about this game.

Photos of two examples of Viza's Fabulous 50's cocktail game finally surfaced on Pinside in early 2021.

It was contracted by Allied Leisure and similar to other Allied Leisure cocktail games.

2.2 War

This game is often referred to as "Viza War", rather than just "War".

It is a 2-player head-to-head cocktail pinball machine.

The playfield artwork is taken from a portion of Frank Frazetta's painting "The Berserker"

This game appears to include a few game-specific parts as well as parts from other manufacturers, such as Allied Leisure, Brunswick, and Wico.

It is speculated that there were around 100-200 games manufactured.

This game went through a few playfield and cabinet variations during production.

Early games used an EM-style system and relays to operate the game, with small PCBs for the digital displays, and also used chimes for sound. Later games used just two boards--an MPU and power supply board, as well as digital displays and electronic sounds. Both games used digit LED segment displays. It is one of the first, if not the first example of LED digit segment displays being used instead of high-voltage glass segment displays. GamePlan Used LED digit segment displays in their first game, Sharpshooter, the following year.

Paperwork, manuals, and schematics have not surfaced for either variant of this game.

3 Documentation

Paperwork, manuals, and schematics have not surfaced for either the early or later variant of this game.

Datasheets are available from a variety of sources for the active electronics components.

The following custom documentation was created/assembled to be as accurate as possible, but they may be incomplete or contain errors since they were not based on any known available/official manufacturer documentation.

MPU Layout & Pinout

MPU Component layout diagram
MPU functional layout sections diagram
MPU Pinout


Viza War MPU Layout & Pinout diagrams - LibreOffice Source File

Score Display Pinout

  • 1: Ball 1 LED
  • 2: Ball 2 LED
  • 3: Ball 3 LED
  • 4: Ball 4 LED
  • 5: Ball 5 LED
  • 6: 1000 Points
  • 7: 100 Points
  • 8: 10,000 Points
  • 9: LED Power/GND?
  • 10: Power/GND?
  • 11: Power/GND?
  • 12: Power/GND?
  • 13: Player 1 LED
  • 14: Player 2 LED
  • 15: Game Over LED
  • 16: Ball This Side LED
  • 17: N/C
  • 18: N/C

Rubber Chart

Rubber Diagram
  • A: 1.5" Rubber (4)
  • B: 3" Rubber (2)
  • C: 3.5" Rubber (6)
  • D: 3" Flipper rubber (6)


4 Technical Info

4.1 Boardset

4.1.1 EM Games

4.1.2 Solid State Games

4.1.2.1 MPU

The MPU controls the game logic, switch inputs, sound, feature lamps, solenoids (including all 8 flippers), and scoring data.

Two interesting features that weren't seen again for at least a decade were computer-controlled flippers and indicator lights for fuses.

A good portion of the PCB is used by flipper controls. The 8 large tube-shaped resistors, 16 transistors, and a dozen ICs connected in some way to driving the transistors for the flippers. The flippers are controlled entirely by the MPU, so there are no end-of-stroke switches on the flipper assemblies. There is also a game feature where the opposite player's flippers can be disabled for a short period of time by hitting a specific target, which explains the need for some of the additional logic for controlling the flippers.

The MPU has four potentiometers installed on the board, which each control tone and volume.

Scoring is handled by each of the player's score displays, rather than the MPU. The MPU has no involvement with keeping scores. However, the score switches are still connected to the MPU, but only to trigger and provide sounds when a score switch his hit.

  • MPU (Front)

  • MPU (Back)

  • MPU Factory Modification (Back) for 10-ball play


Some MPUs have a factory modification on the back of the board on the 7445 chip which enables 10-ball play. 10 balls per game extended the game time, but since there were only 5 LEDs to indicate the number of balls, this is sometimes misidentified as a game malfunction. The modification can be reversed by reconnecting the cut traces, and it will re-enable 5-ball play.

4.1.2.2 Power Supply

The power supply is fairly straight-forward. It takes the voltages from the transformer, rectifies them, and filters them, before being supplied to the rest of the game.

One interesting feature that wasn't seen again for at least a decade was the indicator lights for fuses.

  • Power Supply (Front)

  • Power Supply (Back)


4.1.2.3 Regulator

This game uses a LM323K 3A 5V fixed regulator to accept 12v and produce 5v.

The wiring colors for the connector aren't quite standard. The red wire is +12v in, the yellow wire is 5v out, and black is ground. Normally, under most circumstances, red would signify 5v and yellow would signify 12v, but for some reason, the wiring colors are reversed.

  • Regulator (Front)

  • Regulator (Back)


4.1.2.4 Score Display

The score display has 6 digits, but only four of those digits ever actually change. The digits in the ones and tens places are permanently set as zeros.

An interesting note is that all the 100 point switches are tied together for each side, and the 1000 point switches for each side are tied together. The score switches connect to the appropriate player's score display, and the displays are responsible to tallying the scores for each player. The MPU has no involvement with keeping scores. However, the score switches are still connected to the MPU, but only to trigger and provide sounds when a score switch his hit.

  • Score Display (Front)

  • Score Display (Back)

  • Factory Modification (Back)


4.2 Game Theory & Operation

4.2.1 Solid State Games

The solid state games were configured for 2-player head-to-head gameplay only, with player 1 (side 1) being on the side with the coin door, and player 2 (side 2) being on the opposite side. Adding one credit will start a 1-player game. Adding two credits will start a 2-player game.

4.2.2 EM Games

The EM games were configured for either 1-player or 2-player gameplay (selectable using a toggle switch near the coin door), and with player 1 (side 1) being on the side with the coin door, and player 2 (side 2) being on the opposite side.

4.3 Playfield Variations

This game appears to include a few game-specific parts as well as parts from other manufacturers, such as Allied Leisure, Brunswick, and Wico. With the later playfields, the Allied Leisure parts appeared to be substituted for parts from other manufacturers because it was possible that Viza may have run out of Allied Leisure assemblies to use.


Assembly Early Playfield Most Playfields Later Playfield
Saucer Kickout Assembly Brunswick (2) n/a n/a
Slingshot Assembly Brunswick (2) Brunswick (4) Brunswick (4)
Pop Bumper Assembly Allied Leisure (2) Brunswick (2) Brunswick (2)
Flipper Assembly Wico (8) Wico (8) Wico (8)
Outhole kickout Assembly Allied Leisure (2) Allied Leisure (2) Wico (2), hole covered, Wico linear coil assembly substituted
Shooter Lane Linear Coil Assembly Wico (2) Wico (2) Wico (2)
Flipper Kill Area Switches ? (2), wire lever & stacked switch Allied Leisure (2), rollover buttons ? (2)


4.4 Free Play

Most owners end up adding a credit button on the bottom panel of the cabinet. However, if this is done, make sure the button is level with the bottom surface. This is to prevent the button from being broken off when the legs are removed.

A second method is to repurpose a coin reject button. Remove one of the coin chutes by bending the tab holding it together. Slide the chute cover off, screw a coin switch with a long wire to it, reattach the chute cover, bend the tab, and finally, adjust the switch wire so it activates the switch when the reject button is pressed.

  • Coin switch screwed to the chute

  • Note the switch wire under the right reject mechanism

  • Labels with instructions to indicate to new players what to do


5 Problems & Fixes

5.1 Volume & Sound Adjustments

Volume Adjustment

There are four potentiometers on the MPU of Viza War that are used to adjust sound.

One potentiometer is used to adjust the pitch/tone of the 1000 point scoring sound, and another is used for the 100 point scoring sound. A third is used for adjusting the volume of the point scoring sounds. Lastly, the fourth potentiometer is used to adjust the volume of the remaining noises and sound effects.

If any adjustments result in scratching sounds from the speaker, that usually means the potentiometers (10K ohm) are dirty and may need to be replaced.

5.2 More than 5 balls per game

Some MPUs have a factory modification on the back of the board on the 7445 chip which enables 10-ball play. 10 balls per game extended the game time, but since there were only 5 LEDs to indicate the number of balls, this is sometimes misidentified as a game malfunction. The modification can be reversed by reconnecting the cut traces on the 7447 chip, and also a cut trace between the 74C90 and 7432 chips. This will re-enable 5-ball play.

MPU Factory Modification (Back) for 10-ball play


MPU modification (Back) for changing from 10-ball play back to 5-ball play


5.3 Playfield Solenoids Not Working

Note: The flippers operate on different circuitry than the playfield solenoids (slingshots, kickers, and pop bumpers).

After ruling out connector problems, wiring problems, and transistor problems, check the two 7404 chips in the lower left hand corner of the MPU. If one or both of those chips are bad, some or all of the playfield solenoids may not fire.

5.4 Flippers not working

Note: The flippers operate on different circuitry than the playfield solenoids (slingshots, kickers, and pop bumpers).

The flippers operate on two voltages, so there are two sets of transistors--one set for high voltage, and one set for low/hold voltage. The large 20W resistors knock the high solenoid voltage down to the lower hold voltage.

The bottom row of four 5408 chips drive the transistors for the flippers. If a pair of flippers is not working, it is likely that one of these four chips that corresponds to the non-working flippers is bad.

On the next row up, there is a row of 6 chips. There is a 5408 chip on the far left and far right of the board. These chips are directly connected to the flipper buttons. If a right half or left half of a player's flippers are not working (or if all of one player's flippers are not working), it is likely that a chip that corresponds to the non-working flippers is bad.

5.5 Only the Middle Flippers Work

Viza War had a 1-player mode in addition to a 2-player mode. In 2-player mode, each player controls a set of four flippers.

In 1-player mode, the player on side 1 (the side with the coin door) only controls the middle flippers. The middle flippers on side 2 also fire in addition to the flippers on side 1.

To play using 2-player mode, add two credits. To play using 1-player mode, only add one credit.

5.6 Long Tone/Squeal at Power Up

If there is a long tone/squeal that comes on and stays on after turning the game on, one or both of the 555 timer chips associated with sound may be malfunctioning.

5.7 Various sounds when turning off the game

When the game is turned off, a series of various jumbled sounds and tones will be emitted from the game for a few seconds that gradually drop in pitch. This is normal for this game, and not actually a problem.

5.8 Can't Add Credit and/or Coin Door Lamp is Out

If players cannot add a credit to the game and the door lamp is out (even when a known good bulb is used), there may be a problem with the black ground wire, since both the lamp and coin switches share the same ground wire (as does the play count meter). The ground wire ultimately ends up on the power supply board's top connector at pin 13.

If only the coin door lamp is out, make sure the diode's banded side is facing away from the lamp socket.

Viza-war-coin-door-lamp-socket.jpg


5.9 Score display is missing one or more segments on a segment display

Unfortunately, it is more likely for segments on these segment displays to fail, rather than the chips driving them.

The score displays use FND507 LED displays. These are 1/2", red, common anode, 20mA, seven segment displays.

Replacements may need to be sourced by using the specs listed in the FND507 datasheet. A LTS542R or ZD1857 may be viable replacements, but these have not been tested.

5.10 Lost Key & Cabinet Lock Replacement Options

Unfortunately, the spring lock used on the cabinet is fairly obscure, and not a common arcade-style lock.

Since it is unlikely that this game will be placed on location, there are two options to open the cabinet.

The first is to use a hacksaw to saw through the exposed portion of the lock's deadbolt. This will disable the lock, but leave the face of the lock unharmed for cosmetic purposes.

The second method is to drill out the face of the lock just like any other arcade lock. If this is done, then the metal housing will have to be unscrewed from the cabinet, and then the retaining screw on lock's barrel can be removed, in order to remove the barrel from the housing. After the housing is refastened to the cabinet, a black 3/4" hole plug can be used to plug the hole. Hole plugs can be obtained from most big box hardware stores.

Black hole plug


6 Restoration & Disassembly

6.1 Outhole Kicker Disassembly

Because this game uses plastic parts, it is necessary to be extra careful when disassembling assemblies, especially the outhole kicker assembly. Improper disassembly may result in this:

Broken base plate


Read through the following steps first before attempting disassembly.

  1. Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the metal coil bracket to the plastic base plate. Do *NOT* attempt to remove the coil bracket from the base plate. Many base plates have likely been broken and shattered by people attempting this. Note that there is still the end of a screw poking up through the foot of the coil bracket. This is screwed in from the underside of the base plate.
  2. Unscrew the four screws holding the base plate to the playfield.
  3. Flip the base plate over, and unscrew the phillips screw holding the coil bracket to the plastic base plate.
  4. Unscrew the two screws holding the switch to the base plate.
  5. If it's necessary to remove the kicker arm, use needle nose pliers to remove the E-clips, and carefully push the small end of plastic pins out.
  6. To re-assemble, simply perform all the disassembly steps in reverse order. However, note that the compression spring on the plunger needs to be oriented so the end of the spring is flush against the plastic link, or the plunger will bind up when it fires.

  • Outhole Kicker Assembly

  • Step 1, remove screws

  • Step 3, Remove Screw

  • Step 6, Compression Spring Position


7 Parts Substitutions & Replacements

7.1 Electronics

7.1.1 Chips

  • 5408 chips can be replaced by 7408 chips, but it is recommended to use 7408 or 74F08 chips, especially for the chips driving transistors. For the game logic chips that are not driving transistors, 74HCT08 chips can be used. 74LS08 will not work since the input and output voltage tolerances are too low on the LS variant of the chip. 74HC08 chips will not function at all.
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