Difference between revisions of "Hankin"
(Initiated coverage of Hankin games) |
(→Games) |
||
| (One intermediate revision by the same user not shown) | |||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
=Introduction= | =Introduction= | ||
=Games= | =Games= | ||
| + | <font face="Courier"> | ||
| + | Date of Release Title Production #<br> | ||
| + | 1978 FJ none<br> | ||
| + | 1978 Orbit 1 ~1,020<br> | ||
| + | 1980 Dennis Lillee's Howzat! 350<br> | ||
| + | 1980 Shark none<br> | ||
| + | 1980-06 The Empire Strikes Back ~350 | ||
| + | </font> | ||
| + | |||
=Technical Info= | =Technical Info= | ||
=Problems and Solutions= | =Problems and Solutions= | ||
Latest revision as of 15:27, 3 December 2021
1 Introduction
2 Games
Date of Release Title Production #
1978 FJ none
1978 Orbit 1 ~1,020
1980 Dennis Lillee's Howzat! 350
1980 Shark none
1980-06 The Empire Strikes Back ~350
3 Technical Info
4 Problems and Solutions
4.1 Conversion from 220V to 115V Operation
An easy way to convert any game that normally uses 220VAC to operate on 115VAC is to not convert it. A simple step up/step down transformer can be inserted between wall power and the game's power cord to accomplish this. For Hankin games specifically, since the manufacturer provided no simple means of selecting other power levels (ala Williams WPC games), a step up/step down transformer is the only good choice.
In the picture at left, the gray cord is the game's original power cord. It is plugged into a step up/step down transformer. The step up/step down transformer is plugged into an extension cord that exits the back of the game, and is plugged into wall power.
Be sure to obtain a step up/step down transformer that accepts the particular kind of plug the game has. Otherwise, it will be necessary to install a new plug also.