Difference between revisions of "Leon Borre Bally -32 and -50 Sound Repair"

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Note: the 3 zip files (test EPROM images and self test sound ROM), along with the wav file on this page are not available for download at this time.<br><br><br>
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<font size="5">'''Repair Bally sound card type 2815-32. '''</font>
  
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''Bally sound board type AS2518-51 and AS2518-56.'''</font>
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<font size="5">'''[[Image:swash4.gif]]'''</font>
  
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''[[Image:swash4.gif]]'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''This board is the most simple you can find on Bally pinball machines.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''This type of sound board can be found in the following Bally games: Nitro Groundshaker, Future Spa, Silverball Mania, Space Invaders, Rolling Stones, Mystic, Viking, Hot Doggin', Frontier, Skateball, Speakeasy, BMX, Grand Slam, Goldball, Xenon, and some versions of Flash Gordon. On the board we find a push button to launch a self-test of the sound-board. BUT some games do not have the self test programmed into their ROMs, and there is no self-test at these boards. The games missing the self test are: Nitro Groundshaker, Future Spa, Space Invaders, Xenon, and Speakeasy. On the other hand, the self-test is different in some games. It will launch only a single beep, while the sound is repeated in other games.'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''You do need some specific material to repair it outside of the pinball machine. This includes a speaker, 5 and 12 volt power supply , an electronic probe (DIY model can be found on this site) and a pulse generator. The speaker can be anything, 8ohm is best but 5 to 16 ohm will also work. I use a little car speaker. You can also use the speaker from the pinball machine. The 5 and 12 volt you can get from a power supply of a computer. The electronic probe is needed to follow the signals through the different chips. The pulse generator I have designed is very simple and only consists of 6 parts. You'll be able to use this for other repairs I'll explain in the future on my site.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''The difference between the -51 and the -56 model is, that the -56 model can be connected to a Vocalizer board, while it is not possible to connect the -51 to such a board. On the -56 are some jumpers to convert the -56 board into a -51 model.( downgrading, the jumper settings are indicated on the schematic ) '''</font>
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<font size="4">'''This is how the sound board 2815-32 looks like.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
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[[Image:complbord.jpg]]
  
<font size="3">'''[[Image:sbord.jpg|200px]]'''</font>
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<font size="4">'''What you need for the pulse generator:'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''A -56 type board , at the red arrow in the front the connector for the Vocalizer board .'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''An IC type 4011 with socket, 2 resistors:2,2 Mohm and 100Kohm, a condo of 100nF and some board of 3 on 2 centimeters. And some wire and hooks.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
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[[Image:griklei.jpg]]
  
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''The test .'''</font>
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<font size="4">'''These are the schematics.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''The test EPROM will test the memory chip U10, the U2 PIA chip, and of course the U3 CPU chip. Either a 6808 or a 6802 CPU chip can be used.  A jumper chooses which one to use. If you have a 6808, you need a external memory chip 6810.  If you have a 6802 as CPU, the 6810 is not needed.  The 6802 has an internal RAM portion, which takes care of the needed memory space.  Also, C27 has to be removed if you test the board without a Vocalizer board attached. All the notes about the jumpers and C27 can be found on the schematic.'''</font>
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[[Image:sousceem.gif]]
  
<font size="3">'''Place the test EPROM into the socket of the U4 sound rom. If the tension 5 volts is applied, the test will start immediately. A control LED connected at pin 15 of the U3 CPU chip will blink, if the test runs properly. You can then check all outputs of the U2 PIA (6820 or 6821).  The outputs should go up and down from 0 to 5 volts. If ok, push the button on the board, this launches the memory test.  The blinking of the control LED stops, and if ok, the LED will start blinking again after two seconds.  If not ok, the led remains in its state, either a steady off or on.  The test will run the memory test continuously, which gives us the opportunity to control the signals at the memory chip.'''</font>
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<font size="4">'''The finished pulse generator.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
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<font size="4">'''[[Image:pgenaf.jpg]]'''</font>
  
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''Start.'''</font>
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<font size="4">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''All we need is a 5 volts supply, a speaker, and the test EPROM. The test EPROM image is here ... '''</font>[http://pinballeon.com/bsound/balsound.zip <font size="3">'''[[Image:pinaqua.gif]]'''</font>]<font size="3">''' ( 2716 ) and here '''</font>[http://pinballeon.com/bsound/balsound2732.zip <font size="3">'''[[Image:pinaqua.gif]]'''</font>]<font size="3">''' ( 2732) Either burn the appropriate images into a 2716 or a 2732 EPROM.  Both will work with the same jumpers and connections.  Both images are available, because  it is sometimes more easy to come by a 2732 than a 2716.'''</font>
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<font size="4">'''Start.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''The sound card normally works with 5 and 43 volts. However the 43 volts is brought back to 12 volt on the board itself. Because 43 volt isn't easy available, we work directly with 12 volt. Should your card work fine on the testbench but not inside the pinball machine, you'll have to check if you have 12 volt on TP3 and 43 volt on TP4. If you have 43 volt but no 12 volt then it's Q1 which is responsible and you have to replace this..'''</font>
  
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''Everything connected '''</font>
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<font size="3">'''Connect the sound board like this: The speaker at the two pins bottom connector, 5 volt on pin 5 and ground on pin 6 of connector J1. Connect 12 volt to TP3 and the ground of this 12 volt also to the pin 6 of connector J1. The output of the pulse generator goes to pin 8 of the connector. The power for the pulse generator can be take from TP1 for 5volt and of TP2 for ground.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">''' 5v connects to pin 5 of J1 and the ground at pin 6. The speaker is plugged in at J2. We make a jumper between TP1 and TP2. This is because the 12 volts is not being used for the amplifier chip. For test purposes, the amplifier chip works loud enough using only 5 volts. We of course have a control LED connected between ground and pin 15 of the U3 CPU chip. '''</font>
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<font size="3">'''If your sound card is ok, you'll hear a sound from the speaker. The height of this sound will change if you connect pins 1, 2, 3, 4 of 12 of the connector to ground. You can hear this sound here: and in the middle of the sample you'll hear a change of tone, which is what happens if you i.e. connect pin 12 to ground... '''</font> <font size="3">'''[[Image:pinaqua.gif | link=File:Primson.wav]]'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''[[Image:aangeslo.jpg|200px]]'''</font>
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<font size="4">'''No sound.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''At the right of connector J1, the red arrow points at the 6 volt connection. The yellow arrow points at the speaker connection. The red wire is the jumper between TP1 and TP2, and above the connected control LED.'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''First check the parts which amplify the sound, these are U10, U9 and U8. We inject a humming sound using a screw driver of which we touch the side with our finger, against some IC pins. Do this on these parts: pin 2 of U10. If you don't hear any sound then replace U10. If OK then touch pin 2 of U9, if you don't hear anything, replace U9. Pin 3 of U8, a softer but noticeable humming sound, if not, replace U8. '''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''The jumpers for a -56 board are; B,C,G,E and H. For a -51 board, B and C. In both cases when using a 6802 CPU chip, jumper B changes to position A, and no U10 (6810) is needed.'''</font>
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<font size="4">'''Dividers;'''</font>
  
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''Control led'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''If the amplifier seems ok then we check the dividers. The pulses we introduce on pin 8 of J1 drives Q2 which drivers timer U7, his output is a flow of impulses. We check at collector of Q2 if pulses leave, and on pin 3 of U7 if pulses arrive, using the electronic probe. This flow of pulses will now drive divider U2, and U2 drives U3, then U4 and U11. If these dividers work well you'l get a different tone when you put pins 1, 2, 3, 4 or pin 12 to ground. If this is ok, the sound board is working completely. If the sound does not change or there's no sound at all, check with the probe if you get signals on the pins of U2, U3, U4, U5 and U11.'''</font>
  
<font size="3" color="#000000">'''The control LED is a normal led in series with a 470ohm resistor.  It is used in many applications on this site.  To make one, look at the page, "Repair of Bally/Stern CPU boards." Here's the photo ..'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''We measure ok at the collector of Q2, if input of U7 has no pulses = replace Q2. We measure ok at the input of U7 but not at the output of U7 (pin 3) repllace U7. Of course don't forget to check if there is 12 volt on pin 4 and 8 of U7.'''</font>
  
<font size="3" color="#000000">'''[[Image:ledopg.jpg|200px]]'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''Measure this on the dividers (check with the probe if you have pulses)'''</font>
  
<font size="3" color="#000000">'''Control led '''</font>
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<font size="3">'''U1 / Pulses on pin 4, if not replace U1. '''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''U2 / Pulses on pins 3, 9, 12, 15; pin 16 = 5volt '''</font>
  
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''Practical'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''U3 / Pulses on pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13; pin 16 = 5 volt.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''When tension is applied, the test starts immediately, and the control LED starts blinking.  Also, we hear a smooth but fast heartbeat sound in the speaker.  This means that the test program is running fine. If this is not the case, we will look at some basic signals at U3 to find out why.  On pins 2, 3, 4, and 40, there must be 5 volts present.  The clock signals are at pins 37 and 39.  the signal is a strong 2.5 volts at pin 37, and 1.5 volts at pin 39. When these tensions are ok and the clocks are present, the CPU should start.  If not, remove the test EPROM (U4), the PIA (U2), and the memory chip U10.  Now, check the signals again to see if the CPU is working.  There should be signals at the address bus pins 9 to 25, except pin 21, which is ground.  Find the signals between 0.5 and 2.0 volts, the same on the pins 26 to 33. There are two possibilities.  If the signals are there, the CPU is ok.  If there are no signals, replace the CPU.'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''U4 / Pulses on 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15; pin 16 = 5 volt.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''Now if the CPU runs fine as a stand alone, but the control LED does not blink with the test EPROM in place, see below.'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''U5 / Pulses on 3, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15; pin 16 = 5 volt.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''We again remove the test EPROM, and look at the signals arriving on its socket. Are the different data and address signals are there? If not, there may be bad contact at the socket.  Look at the selection signals.  We need a 0.5 volt signal at pin 19 and a 4.5 volt signal at pin 20. Use a universal voltmeter, a digital test lamp, or a scope to control these tensions and signals. If there is a missing signal, look at the schematic to see where it originates from.  Always suspect the sockets first.  If it is a address or data bus signal that is missing, bend up the pin of the CPU where it originates from.  If the now bent up pin delivers the signal, that means you have a short on that address or data line. You will have to look that up in the schematics. Normally you did find now the fault and can start controlling the PIA outputs.  These will "dance" up and down from 0 to 5 volts. If some are missing the PIA is bad.  If all are missing, check the socket connections again.  All the signals to the PIA including the selection signals are data or address bus signals.  Since these were already checked, if there are no outputs at all, the PIA is bad. At this point you must have found the fault.'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''EXTRA U5 Pulses on pin 2 , if you connect pin 12 of the connector to ground.'''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''U11 / Pulses on 1, 9, 11.'''</font>
  
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''Memory test '''</font>
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<font size="3">'''If one of these pins does not show pulses, use the schematics to see if it's an output of U2, these go through U1 before entering U3. By these gates you can make a difference between the input of the next chip and the output of the preceding one; for the other parts this isn't possible. Output pin 3 of U3 is connected to input pin 11 of U5, and there are more like this, so you will have to cut the connection to make sure if it's the output that's missing. If the connection is broken and you have an output signal, then it's the chip where the signal enters which is broken ! So you'll need to search a bit until you can be sure whether the output or the next connected input causes the missing pulses. '''</font>
  
<font size="3">'''We start the memory test by pressing the push button on the board. The control LED will stop blinking, and restart blinking after about two seconds if all is ok.  If not ok, the control LED will stay in his current state.  This can be a steady on or off. Anyway the test continuous checking the memory and allow us to measure the arriving signals at the memory chip U10. On pins 1, 14, and 15, we find ground on pin 24 5 volts. All other pins receive signals between 1.5 and 3.0 volts. If that is ok, and the test indicates bad memory, you can be sure that the chip is bad. Otherwise, again suspect the socket. At this point you must have found the fault in the board.'''</font>
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<font size="3">'''Once you've searched the whole board and repaired the problems, you'll hear sounds from the speaker ! Good luck !'''</font>
 
 
<font size="3">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
 
 
 
<font size="5" color="#0000FF">'''Amplifier and sound generator chip.'''</font>
 
 
 
<font size="3">'''To test the amplifier, we just will inject some noise by putting our finger on C5 and C2.  This will result in humming from the speaker. If ok at C5, the TDA2002 U9 is good. If humming is heard at C2, the pre-amp U8 LM3900 is good. The humming is louder at C2, and about half as loud at C5.  When the board still does not work in the pinball, the only thing remaining is the U1 sound generator. To test U1, we will need a game sound ROM that supports the self test.  Install a ROM if it supports the self test (see above), otherwise install one with this ROM image - '''</font>[http://pinballeon.com/bsound/beep.zip <font size="3">'''[[Image:pinaqua.gif]]'''</font>]<font size="3">''' Burn it in a 2716. Change the test EPROM with the game sound ROM, and start by using the push button. You will hear a sound like this ... '''</font>[http://pinballeon.com/bsound/ting.wav <font size="3">'''[[Image:pinaqua.gif]]'''</font>]<font size="3">''' If not replace the AY-3-8910.'''</font>
 
 
 
<font size="3">'''[[Image:swash1.gif]]'''</font>
 
 
 
<font size="4" color="#0000FF">'''Remarque'''</font>
 
 
 
<font size="3">'''On the schematic for the -51 board, you'll find a pulse generator formed around U7. At the bottom of the schematics, the "notes" say that this IC is not always mounted on the board. In fact, I have never seen a board with U7. If you have a board with U7 stuffed, the control of this circuit is easy.  Pulses are supposed to come out continuously from pin 3. If not, replace the 555.  The rest of the pulse generator being only three resistors and two condensers.'''</font>
 

Latest revision as of 17:44, 25 April 2013

Repair Bally sound card type 2815-32.

Swash4.gif

This board is the most simple you can find on Bally pinball machines.

You do need some specific material to repair it outside of the pinball machine. This includes a speaker, 5 and 12 volt power supply , an electronic probe (DIY model can be found on this site) and a pulse generator. The speaker can be anything, 8ohm is best but 5 to 16 ohm will also work. I use a little car speaker. You can also use the speaker from the pinball machine. The 5 and 12 volt you can get from a power supply of a computer. The electronic probe is needed to follow the signals through the different chips. The pulse generator I have designed is very simple and only consists of 6 parts. You'll be able to use this for other repairs I'll explain in the future on my site.

This is how the sound board 2815-32 looks like.

Complbord.jpg

What you need for the pulse generator:

An IC type 4011 with socket, 2 resistors:2,2 Mohm and 100Kohm, a condo of 100nF and some board of 3 on 2 centimeters. And some wire and hooks.

Griklei.jpg

These are the schematics.

Sousceem.gif

The finished pulse generator.

Pgenaf.jpg

Swash1.gif

Start.

The sound card normally works with 5 and 43 volts. However the 43 volts is brought back to 12 volt on the board itself. Because 43 volt isn't easy available, we work directly with 12 volt. Should your card work fine on the testbench but not inside the pinball machine, you'll have to check if you have 12 volt on TP3 and 43 volt on TP4. If you have 43 volt but no 12 volt then it's Q1 which is responsible and you have to replace this..

Connect the sound board like this: The speaker at the two pins bottom connector, 5 volt on pin 5 and ground on pin 6 of connector J1. Connect 12 volt to TP3 and the ground of this 12 volt also to the pin 6 of connector J1. The output of the pulse generator goes to pin 8 of the connector. The power for the pulse generator can be take from TP1 for 5volt and of TP2 for ground.

If your sound card is ok, you'll hear a sound from the speaker. The height of this sound will change if you connect pins 1, 2, 3, 4 of 12 of the connector to ground. You can hear this sound here: and in the middle of the sample you'll hear a change of tone, which is what happens if you i.e. connect pin 12 to ground... Pinaqua.gif

No sound.

First check the parts which amplify the sound, these are U10, U9 and U8. We inject a humming sound using a screw driver of which we touch the side with our finger, against some IC pins. Do this on these parts: pin 2 of U10. If you don't hear any sound then replace U10. If OK then touch pin 2 of U9, if you don't hear anything, replace U9. Pin 3 of U8, a softer but noticeable humming sound, if not, replace U8.

Dividers;

If the amplifier seems ok then we check the dividers. The pulses we introduce on pin 8 of J1 drives Q2 which drivers timer U7, his output is a flow of impulses. We check at collector of Q2 if pulses leave, and on pin 3 of U7 if pulses arrive, using the electronic probe. This flow of pulses will now drive divider U2, and U2 drives U3, then U4 and U11. If these dividers work well you'l get a different tone when you put pins 1, 2, 3, 4 or pin 12 to ground. If this is ok, the sound board is working completely. If the sound does not change or there's no sound at all, check with the probe if you get signals on the pins of U2, U3, U4, U5 and U11.

We measure ok at the collector of Q2, if input of U7 has no pulses = replace Q2. We measure ok at the input of U7 but not at the output of U7 (pin 3) repllace U7. Of course don't forget to check if there is 12 volt on pin 4 and 8 of U7.

Measure this on the dividers (check with the probe if you have pulses)

U1 / Pulses on pin 4, if not replace U1.

U2 / Pulses on pins 3, 9, 12, 15; pin 16 = 5volt

U3 / Pulses on pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13; pin 16 = 5 volt.

U4 / Pulses on 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15; pin 16 = 5 volt.

U5 / Pulses on 3, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15; pin 16 = 5 volt.

EXTRA U5 Pulses on pin 2 , if you connect pin 12 of the connector to ground.

U11 / Pulses on 1, 9, 11.

If one of these pins does not show pulses, use the schematics to see if it's an output of U2, these go through U1 before entering U3. By these gates you can make a difference between the input of the next chip and the output of the preceding one; for the other parts this isn't possible. Output pin 3 of U3 is connected to input pin 11 of U5, and there are more like this, so you will have to cut the connection to make sure if it's the output that's missing. If the connection is broken and you have an output signal, then it's the chip where the signal enters which is broken ! So you'll need to search a bit until you can be sure whether the output or the next connected input causes the missing pulses.

Once you've searched the whole board and repaired the problems, you'll hear sounds from the speaker ! Good luck !