Gottlieb System 1

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1 Introduction

Gottlieb System 1 Board Set

Of the big 4 pinball makers, Gottlieb was slowest converting from EM to Solid State, producing EMs into 1979 while Bally, Stern, and Williams had all abandoned doing so in 1977/early 1978. The Gottlieb system 1 boardset was designed by Rockwell International, to directly replace the EM logic from the earlier machines. Consequently System 1 games play almost exactly like an EM, just with Solid State scoring.

The playfield layouts were solid EM-esque designs, with rock-solid Gottlieb mechanical parts. Unfortunately, the electronics were not as robust in terms of longevity - exhibiting major problems with connectors, battery corrosion issues, and unavailability today of essential system chips.

One of the biggest issues with the System 1 platform was that it had unreliable ground connections. Unlike the other popular manufacturers of the time, Gottlieb relied solely on connectors and daisy-chained wiring to transport the ground lines from board to board. A large ground plane was used behind the boards, but the circuit boards' grounds were not physically secured to it. Gottlieb opted to use plastic standoffs to elevate and secure the boards to the backbox instead. Thus, if a single ground connector failed in the chain, the logic ground could fail for one or several of the circuit boards. This could potentially lead to locked on coils, relays, and / or controlled lamps. In turn, transistors and chips would fail.

2 Games

Title	Date of Release	Production#	ROM	Sound	Notes
Cleopatra	11-1977	~7300	A or 409	Chimes	Also produced as a 4-player EM 'Cleopatra' and a 2-player EM 'Pyramid'
Sinbad	05-1978	12950	B	Chimes	Also produced as a 4-player EM 'Sinbad' and a 2-player EM 'Eye of the Tiger'
Joker Poker	08-1978	9280	C	Chimes	Also produced as a 4-player EM 'Joker Poker'
Close Encounters of the Third Kind	10-1978	9950	G	Chime board	Also produced as a 4-player EM 'Close Encounters of the Third Kind'
Dragon	10-1978	6550	D	Chime board	Also produced as a 4-player EM 'Dragon'
Charlie's Angels	11-1978	7950	H	Chime board	Also produced as a 4-player EM 'Charlie's Angels'
Solar Ride	02-1979	8800	E	Chime board	Also produced as a 4-player EM 'Solar Ride'
Count-Down	05-1979	9899	F	Chime board	Also produced as a 2-player EM 'Space Walk'
Pinball Pool	08-1979	7200	I	Chime board
Totem	10-1979	6643	J	Sound board J-SND ROM
The Incredible Hulk	10-1979	6150	K	Sound board K-SND ROM
Genie	11-1979	6800	L	Sound board L-SND ROM
Buck Rogers	01-1980	7410	N	Sound board N-SND ROM
Torch	02-1980	3880	P	Sound board P-SND ROM
Roller Disco	02-1980	2400	R	Sound board R-SND ROM
Asteroid Annie and the Aliens	12-1980	211	S	Sound board S-SND ROM	Only available as a single player game

Conversion kits for system 1 from other manufacturers:

• (circa 1982) Movie (Bell Games, 4p)

• (unknown date) Sky Warrior (IDI, 4p)
• (circa 1982) Tiger Woman (IDI, 4p)

• 1984 Sahara Love (Christian Automatic, 4p, production 150) [conversion of Sinbad]
• 1986 L'Heaxagone (Christian Automatic, 4p, production 150) [original playfield design]

• 1985 Jungle Queen (Pinball Shop, 4p) [playfield based on Gottlieb's Jungle Queen]

3 Technical Info

3.1 The System 1 Board Set

3.2 Switch Matrix

The Gottlieb System 1 switch matrix consists of a maximum of 40 switches. There are a total of 5 switch strobes, (starting with 0, ending with 4), and 8 switch returns, (starting with 0, ending with 7). However, not every switch in the matrix is used on every System 1 game.

The first number of every switch is its return number, while the second number is the switch's strobe number. An example would be switch 54. Switch 54 is located on return 5 and strobe 4 of the switch matrix. It should be noted that the switches on return 0 are always the same for every System 1 game. The following switches have the same designations:

• Switch 00 = Test Switch
• Switch 01 = Coin Switch #1
• Switch 02 = Coin Switch #2
• Switch 03 = Credit (Start) Button
• Switch 04 = Tilt Switches

Although the switch matrix is being discussed here, it should also be noted that there are three switches used in System 1 games, which are not on the switch matrix. These three switches are the two slam switches and the outhole switch. Each game has two slam switches. The first is a weighted, normally closed switch on the coin door. The second is a normally closed switch on the ball roll tilt cage. Neither the slam switches nor the outhole switch have a switch number designation.

	Strobe 0 (A1J7-2 / A1J6-8)	Strobe 1 (A1J6-3 / A1J6-4)	Strobe 2 (A1J7-4 / A1J6-5)	Strobe 3 (A1J7-7 / A1J6-6)	Strobe 4 (A1J7-6)
Return 0 (A1J7-12 / A1J6-3)	00	01	02	03	04
Return 1 (A1J7-13)	10	11	12	13	14
Return 2 (A1J6-14)	20	21	22	23	24
Return 3 (A1J6-17)	30	31	32	33	34
Return 4 (A1J6-16)	40	41	42	43	44
Return 5 (A1J6-15)	50	51	52	53	54
Return 6 (A1J6-11)	60	61	62	63	64
Return 7 (A1J6-10)	70	71	72	73	74

3.3 Chimes vs. First gen chime board

Gottlieb System 1 Chime Board (Tone Board)

The first three System 1 games: Cleopatra, Sinbad, and Joker Poker all used EM style chimes. Starting with Close Encounters of the Third Kind through Pinball Pool, a first generation chime board was used that generated three tones. The chime board used the same three solenoid drive transistors for input as the chime units, making them interchangeable.

3.3.1 Converting from Chimes to Chime Board

This is a stub.

3.3.2 Converting from Chime Board to Chimes

This is a stub.

3.6 Driver Board

Gottlieb System 1 Driver Board

The System 1 Driver board is responsible for all CPU controlled lamps, relays, and solenoids in the game. The CPU controls the driver board operation via an interface between A1J5 on the CPU and A3J1 on the driver board.

Gottlieb did not implement a lamp matrix as some other manufacturers did. To control the total of 36 lamps, the interface provides device select signals for each of the 9 Quad-D Flip-Flop 74175 chips on the driver board, and 4 bits of data that is loaded (or "clocked") into a particular 74175 via the aforementioned device selects. Each lamp is driven discretely by a particular output of a particular 74175, which in turn drives either an MPS-A13 (32 total) or an MPS-U45 (4 used for lamps) transistor. There are 2 dedicated lamp driven circuits used for the tilt and game over relays on all System 1 games. The transistors for the game over (Q) and tilt (T) relays are always Q1 and Q2 respectively. Equally, there are 2 dedicated lamp circuits for the high game to date and both shoot again lamps,(one in the backbox and one on the playfield). The transistors for these circuits are always Q3 and Q4 respectively.

There is a maximum of 8 solenoids that the driver board can control. Solenoid transistors receive a pulsed signal from the CPU board, which is applied to the associated transistor base. In turn, the solenoid turns on momentarily. 7 of the 8 solenoid transistors used are a 2N6403. TIP102 transistors are a viable, cheaper replacement for the 2N6403. The 8th transistor is a actually a pair of transistors consisting of an MPS-U45 and a 2N3055. There are 5 dedicated controlled solenoids used on all System 1 games. A table of all the solenoids, their associated transistors, and whether or not they are dedicated is listed below.

Sol. #	Sol. Name	Transistor #	Dedicated (Y / N)
1	Outhole	Q32	Y
2	Knocker	Q25	Y
3	10's Chime	Q26	Y
4	100's Chime	Q27	Y
5	1000's Chime	Q28	Y
6	Solenoid 6	Q31	N
7	Solenoid 7	Q30	N
8	Typically drop target reset	Q29 & Q45	N

Starting with Joker Poker, Gottlieb went beyond the threshold of controlled solenoids with 9 total. To accomplish this, they used an MPS-A13 lamp transistor to "pre-drive" a 2N5875 transistor remotely located under the playfield. This practice continued on most System 1 games.

Gottlieb System 1 Driver Board w/ Blocking Diodes

There are two variations of the driver board used in System 1 games. The main difference between the two versions of driver boards is the addition of isolation / blocking diodes on the later driver driver boards starting with game - xxxxxx (check if Count-Down or earlier). Blocking diodes were added to the transistor signal lines from the CPU board.

3.9 Solenoids and Relays

Gottlieb System 1 Game Over and Tilt Relays

3.10 Setting up a Game for Free Play

Early Gottileb solid state pinball machines, prior to 1990, did not have a free play option available within the game settings. With this simple modification, a game can be set up for free play. First, identify the diode strip in the bottom of the cabinet. Once the diode strip is found, locate the credit button and coin switch strobe line wires. The wires will be located on the left of the diode strip - the non-banded side of the diodes. Below is a list of the wires.

Credit button wire - Green-White or Brown-Yellow-Yellow

1st coin switch wire - Orange-White or Brown-Red-Red

2nd coin switch wire - Brown-White or Brown-Orange-Orange

Gottlieb System 1 Transformer Board

Solder a small lead wire from the credit button wire to any of the coin switch wires. Make certain that the diode, credit button wire, and coin switch wire are still soldered securely to the diode strip terminal when finished. If soldering is not an option, use a small alligator clip test lead. Now, when the credit button is pressed, a credit will be incremented and decremented. A game can be easily started without the need to open the coin door to trip the coin switches anymore.

3.11 Problems and Solutions

3.11.5 Solenoid problems

Remote Transistor Mounted Under Playfield

3.11.8 Display Problems

{WIP}

The blue Futaba display glasses used by Gottlieb System 1 machines are a fairly reliable, long-lasting display. System 1 vacuum fluorescent displays (VFD) have a tendency to outlast the plasma gas displays, which were commonly used by Williams, Bally, and Stern. Although, they can and do still fail. It's just a matter of diagnosing the symptoms of a failed display.

Display problems can be classified into the following categories:

1. Power problems
2. Display glass failure
3. Data problems
   

3.11.8.1 Power Problems

Before even attempting to work on System 1 displays, there are two caveats to heed. First and foremost, the displays function due to the necessity of several voltages, including high voltage. IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON HIGH VOLTAGE CIRCUITS, THEN DO NOT WORK ON SYSTEM 1 DISPLAYS! High voltage can hurt or even kill you. If you don't feel comfortable working around this type of scenario, then hire a professional to do the work. Secondly, any time a display connector needs to be disconnected, DO NOT REMOVE ANY DISPLAY RELATED CONNECTOR WITH THE POWER ON! This goes for the connectors located directly at the display, connectors A1J2 and A1J3 on the CPU board, A2J3 on the power supply board, and A6J3 / A6P3 from the transformer. Removing connectors with the power on can damage the display, the CPU board, and / or you. Sorry to "yell", but it is extremely important to stress the above two statements. Now that this is out of the way, let's move on.

As stated above, the displays need several sources of voltage to function properly. These voltages include +5VDC for all displays. As far as the other voltages, they are broken down by the type of display: +60VDC, +8VDC offset, and 5VAC are used for the 6-digit displays; +42VDC, +4VDC offset, and 3VAC are used for the 4-digit status display. If any of these voltages are missing, the display will never light.

The best place to start checking voltages is simple - the fuse for the high voltage display source. In most every System 1 game, there is a 1/4 amp slo-blo fuse used for the display voltage. This fuse is located on the transformer board in the bottom of the cabinet. The first thing to do is to unplug the game from the wall outlet. Then, remove the fuse from its fuse holder. When checking fuses, never "eyeball" the fuse. Your eyes may tell you that the fuse is good, but your eyes can fool you. Use a digital multi-meter (DMM) or a continuity tester to check fuses. Put each lead of DMM on opposite ends of the fuse. A tone should be heard. If not, the fuse is bad, and should be replaced with the same value. Fuses are used to protect equipment, the surroundings, and you. Installing fuse values with higher ratings is very dangerous. DO NOT USE A FUSE RATED AT A HIGHER RECOMMENDED VALUE!

3.11.8.2 Display Glass Failure

The simplest and easiest problem to identify is display glass failure. All of the 6 digit displays used by Gottlieb System 1 games will have a black "blotch" (for lack of a better term in the upper left and lower right corner of the glass. The 4-digit status display typically has only one black blotch. The evidence of a black blotch or blotches is good. However, if there is a muted white blotch visible on the display, it means the glass is ruined, either due to a cracked glass or broken nipple. Even though the glass itself is bad, the chips on the display board may still be good. So don't necessarily discount the display as being all bad. The chips and circuit board may come in handy at some point in time.

3.11.8.3 Data Problems

3.11.10 Flipper problems

Gottlieb System 1 Flipper Assy.

The System 1 "fat boy" flipper mechanism appeared on the earliest System 1 games and was carried all the way through System 80 except for the last game. Operators loved it because it rarely breaks. Players were harder on it, leading Gottlieb to finally move the the System 3 ("thin boy") mechanism. Unlike the System 1 mechanism, players AND operators dislike the System 3 mechanism.

The mechanism itself is a serial-wound flipper coil with an EOS switch, activated by a cabinet switch. Operation is broadly similar to other manufacturers.

The System 1 flipper mechanism is a little wimpy, compared to some (that is, Williams). The heavy flipper bat and super-durable mechanisms also tend to add a bit of weight.

The System 1 flipper mechanism is incredibly hardy. If it is clean and assembled correctly, it will work reliably for a long time.

The major weakness is the EOS switch. The EOS switch is actuated by the crank assembly, and it's a metal-on-metal contact point. After a time, the crank may wear a hole in the EOS switch. At one time (late '80s), Gottlieb offered a kit that added a roller, making the flipper mechanism even better. But in home use, even that modification is overkill.

The flipper plunger is attached to a squarish nylon link that does wear out—that is, the hole may enlarge. Alternatively, the nylon can break. In these cases, the link must be replaced. A punch is very helpful in removing the roll pin that holds the link into the crank.

Coil stops and plungers do occasionally show wear, and can be replaced, but it's not really necessary often to do so.

Steve Young sells a nice kit to do a flipper rebuild, but unlike a Williams flipper, it is better to replace parts as needed. They simply don't self-destruct the way late-model Williams flippers do.

4 Repair Logs

Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.