Gottlieb System 80
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1 Introduction
Put system info here
2 Games
2.1 System 80 1st Generation
- Spiderman
- Panthera
- Circus
- Counterforce
- Star Race
2.2 System 80 2nd Generation
- James Bond
- Time Line
- Force II
- Pink Panther
- Mars God of War
- Volcano
- Black Hole
- Haunted House
2.3 System 80a
- Devil's Dare
- Caveman
- Rocky
- Spirit
- Punk!
- Striker
- Krull
- Goin Nuts
- Qbert's Quest
- Super Orbit
- Royal Flush Dlx
- Amazon Hunt
- Rack 'Em Up
- Ready Aim Fire
- Jacks to Open
- Alien Star
- The Games
- Touchdown
- El Dorado
- Ice Fever
2.4 System 80b
- Chicago Cubs Triple Play
- Bounty Hunter
- Tag Team
- Rock
- Rock Encore
- Raven
- Hollywood Heat
- Genesis
- Gold Wings
- Monte Carlo
- Spring Break
- Amazon Hunt II
- Arena
- Victory
- Diamond Lady
- TX Sector
- Amazon Hunt III
- Robo-War
- Excalibur
- Bad Girls
- Hot Shots
- Big House
- BoneBusters
3 Technical Info
4 Setting up a Game for Free Play
Early Gottileb solid state pinball machines, prior to 1990, did not have a free play option available within the game settings. With this simple modification, a game can be set up for free play. First, identify the diode strip in the bottom of the cabinet. Once the diode strip is found, locate the credit button and coin switch strobe line wires. The wires will be located on the left of the diode strip - the non-banded side of the diodes. Below is a list of the wires.
Credit button wire - Green-Yellow-Yellow
Left coin switch wire - Green-Brown-Brown
Center coin switch wire - Green-Orange-Orange
Right coin switch wire - Green-Red-Red
Solder a small lead wire from the credit button wire to any of the coin switch wires. Make certain that the diode, credit button wire, and coin switch wire are still soldered securely to the diode strip terminal when finished. If soldering is not an option, use a small alligator clip test lead. Now, when the credit button is pressed, a credit will be incremented and decremented. A game can be easily started without the need to open the coin door to trip the coin switches anymore.
Please note that this modification does not apply to Gottlieb System 80A and System 80B machines. System 80A and 80B machines use diode boards with edge connections, which are typically located on the cabinet wall near the left flipper cabinet switch. In my experience, jumpering the diodes on System 80A and 80B games do not give the intended free play results of jumpered System 80 diodes. I attribute this to the System 80A and 80B software reading the switch matrix differently.
5 Power Supply
Pics, etc.
6 CPU Board
Pics, etc.
7 Driver Board
8 Sound Boards
Pics, etc.
9 Sound Power Supplies
Pics, etc.
10 Display Boards
Pics of 6 digit display, 7 digit display, 4 digit status display, and both alphanumeric displays, etc.
11 Problems and Fixes
11.1 Power Driver Issues
This may not apply to some, as MPU might have been part of it.
11.2 MPU Issues
11.2.1 Using An Old Computer Power Supply For Bench Testing
A MPU board is much easier to work on if it is removed from the backbox and placed on the test bench. An old computer power supply can be used to power the MPU board for testing on the bench.
Obtain and old computer power supply from an old computer. If you don't have an old computer setting around head on off to the thrift store and pick one up. Remove the power supply from the case by unscrewing the appropriate screws. Careful not to unscrew the power supply case itself.
Cut off one of the connectors from the power supply and clearly mark on the power supply box the value of each of the colored wires from the power supply. The Yellow wire is 12V, the red 5V and the black is ground. Strip off part of each of the wires. To put the MPU on the test bench you will only need one of the ground wires and the 5v (red) line. To hook up the power supply I have alligator clips that I connect to the 5v and ground line and to the corresponding J1 connection. I use larger alligator clips to make the connection.
Mark the MPU board where the positive and negative (common) connection is for the five volts from the computer power supply. This is marked on connector J1. The image shows the A1J1 connector with the markings. I took the picture with the board still mounted in the machine. Connect the 5v supply with alligator clips to the positive connector on J1 and the black wire (ground) to the negative connector of J1. That's it, your good to go! --Kencaine 02:30, 24 April 2011 (BST)
11.3 Power Supply Issues
11.4 Display Driver Board
Possibly doesn't apply to some, can't think of an example.
12 Game Specific Problems and Fixes
Example would be servo controller on Independence Day pinball
13 Repair Logs
Did you do a repair? Log it here as a possible solution for others.
13.1 Game Displays 000000 On Power Up and It's Not The Slam Switch
If you power the game on and all of the displays immediately display all zeros without strobing the problem is usually with the slam switch. However, if the slam switch modification has been done or the slam switch is working properly there is a problem with the switch matrix.
I had this problem on my Haunted House machine. I finally found that chip Z15 (7432) was bad.
I was fixing a kicker solenoid on the playfield, the playfield was still in the machine and fully in the upright position. While I was soldering the wire to the new solenoid I did not adequately protect the components below from a solder drip. Well, I did have a solder drip that landed right on a pop bumper driver board connector and shorted the connector. The short caused more than just this problem but for this narrative we will restrict to the slam/switch matrix problem.
Reading in other materials I recognized the problem as the slam switch issue. I used a logic probe to test other components and found the CPU board working, mostly as it should except for acting like the machine was slam tilted. There was little written about the problem outside of the slam switch. I decided to check the matrix by doing a diode check on all of the diodes in the switch matrix. When I did this, I found that many of the diodes were testing bad. These were being tested with the board removed from the machine.
Having replacement diodes in my parts drawer I decided that these must have gone bad during the short. I began unsoldering a few of the diodes. Once disconnected from the circuit board I remeasured the removed diodes and found the correct values on my meter, they were not bad. I then noticed that the bad diodes were all in the same row on the switch matrix. They all traced back to the Z15 chip. I replaced the Z15 7432 and the problem was resolved. --Kencaine 01:43, 24 April 2011 (BST)