ALI/Fascination Repair

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For history of Allied Leisure see Allied Leisure.


1 Introduction

Allied Leisure (ALI) is best known for making machines with "short" playfields; the two "shaker ball" EM machines, and several "cocktail" pinball machines in the late 1970s, which they produced under the names "Allied Leisure Industries" and "Fascination International" with identical hardware (Gameplan was also making cocktail pinball machines in the late 1970s with completely different hardware based on Bally's designs). They also produced several "traditional form factor" solid-state pinball machines in the mid-1970s.

Some history of Allied Leisure can be found here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, and Part 4. Some additional background information on Allied Leisure and their arcade games can be found here.

2 Games

2.1 Electromechanical

  • Seahunt
  • Spooksville

2.2 Solid State

  • Rock On
  • Dyn O' Mite (also written as Dyno-Mite, Dyno Mite, or Dynomite)
  • T.N.T.
  • Thunderbolt
  • Boogie
  • Roy Clark Super Picker
  • Getaway
  • Hoe Down

2.3 Cocktail

  • Take Five
  • Flame of Athens
  • Hearts Spades
  • Disco '79
  • Star Shooter
  • Circa 1933 (Fascination Int.)
  • Eros II (Fascination Int.)
  • Eros One (Fascination Int.)
  • Roy Clark The Entertainer (Fascination Int.)


3 Technical Info

3.1 Board Set

3.1.1 Generation 1

The system with multiple circuit boards has been designated as "generation 1". It was used in Rock On, Dyn 'O Mite, T.N.T., Thunderbolt, and Boogie. All the games used the same cabinet and the same playfield layout (not all had the same artwork). Sounds were provided by a set of chimes. The wiring and components for the power section at the bottom of the cabinet varied somewhat between games.

3.1.1.1 Pinball Lamp Drivers (264-1-53)

There are two lamp driver boards. One of these boards is located in the backbox, and another in the cabinet.


3.1.1.2 Pinball Mode Interface / Mode Sequencer Interface (264-1-54)

This board is located in the backbox.


3.1.1.3 Pinball Player Up Logic (264-1-62)

This board is located in the backbox.


3.1.1.4 Bonus Drain / Bonus Board (264-1-59)

This board is located in the backbox.


3.1.1.5 Pinball Credit Circuit / Credit Board (264-1-56)

This board is located in the backbox.

3.1.1.5.1 Revisions
3.1.1.5.1.1 Revision A

Revision A is marked with the number "PCB 264-9-10" and is a green-colored PCB. On revision B, this PCB number is followed by the letter "B". Revision A has a number of factory trace cuts and jumpers. These cuts and jumpers were fixed in revision B of this board with modifications to the traces.

Revision A is confirmed to have appeared in Dyno-Mite.


3.1.1.5.1.2 Revision B

Revision B is marked with the number "PCB 264-9-10 B" and is a tan-colored PCB. Revision B includes trace changes that were late modifications to the revision A board, which were originally several trace cuts and additional jumpers.


3.1.1.5.2 Jumper Settings

There is a note in the Dyno-mite manual that says the game can only use the "coin 1" jumper setting.

Credit board selection jumpers



The left-most jumpers are "1" and the right-most jumpers are "9".

Credit board selection jumpers


3.1.1.6 Score Display Logic / Standard Digital Scoring Unit (264-1-60)

Depending upon if the game is a 2-player or 4-player game, either 2 or 4 of these boards are located in the backbox.


3.1.1.7 Score Display (5-digit) (264-1-75)

The score displays are inserted into the Score Display Logic boards (264-1-60).


3.1.1.8 Line 'Em Up Logic (264-1-57)

This board is located in the backbox.


3.1.1.9 Line 'Em Up Display (264-1-64)

The Line 'Em Up Display is inserted into the Line 'Em Up Logic board (264-1-57).


3.1.1.10 Credit Display (264-1-55)

This board is located in the backbox. Note that although it appears that the glass nipple is broken off, the glass will still light up normally.


3.1.1.11 Pinball Playfield Scoring Logic (264-1-61)

This board is located in the cabinet.


3.1.1.12 Relay Drivers Board (264-1-52)

This board is located in the cabinet.


3.1.1.13 Chime Solenoid Circuit (264-1-189)

Part name & number found within a technican's printed notes. Unclear which game(s) it appears in. Note: Not present in Rock On, Dyn 'O Mite, or T.N.T. Possibly present in Thunderbolt, but this is unconfirmed.

3.1.2 Generation 2

3.1.3 Generation 3

3.2 Connectors & Pin Designations

3.2.1 Generation 1

3.2.1.1 50-pin (25x25) Connectors

The 50-pin connectors have two rows of 25 pins. The front-facing side is numbered from 1 to 25.

On the reverse side, the pins are assigned letters, but with a few missing (G, I, O, Q) and with a few additions (AA, BB, CC).

When looking at the the front of a board connector:

Pin Assignments for the 50-pin connectors


Pin Assignments
A B C D E F H J K L M N P R S T U V W X Y Z AA BB CC
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

The edge connectors on the PCBs also correspond to these pin assignments. There are a few markings to indicate the start and end of the edge connector contact designations.

Front of PCB edge connector showing labels "1" and "25".
Back of PCB edge connector showing labels "A", "Z", and "C" (for "CC").


For boards that use only a single 50-pin connector, pin 25 is always ground and pin 23 is always the supplied voltage for the board.

For the Playfield Logic board, which has two 50-pin connectors, only connector P1B (on the right) uses pin 25 as ground, and pin 23 for the supplied power.

3.2.1.2 12-pin Plug/Receptacle Connectors

There are sixteen 12-pin plug & receptacle connectors throughout the machine. Each plug/receptacle has a number directly below each pin on the inside of the plug/receptacle. Good lighting and a magnifying glass may be needed to see them.

Connector numbering


To separate the connectors, two hands are necessary, since they are always very tightly connected. With one hand, pinch the two contacts tightly. Then, pull on the ridges of the plug. Try to avoid yanking on the actual wires themselves, or they might be pulled from their connectors.

The pins used in these connectors are not the standard Molex 0.084" pin and socket connectors used in most games in later years from other manufacturers. They are AMP Commercial Mate-N-Lok connectors. These connectors are not compatible with Molex connectors, so neither a pin nor socket Molex connector can be substituted. Molex connectors will also not fit properly in the plugs or receptacles.

Various part numbers for pin connectors:

  • 60620-1 (Pin, 14-20 AWG, tin-plated brass)
  • 60620-4 (Pin, 14-20 AWG, tin-plated phosphor bronze)
  • 60618-1 (Pin, 18-22 AWG, tin-plated brass)
  • 60618-4 (Pin, 18-22 AWG, tin-plated phosphor bronze)

Various part numbers for socket connectors:

  • 60619-1 (Socket, 14-20 AWG, tin-plated brass)
  • 60619-4 (Socket, 14-20 AWG, tin-plated phosphor bronze)
  • 60617-1 (Socket, 18-22 AWG, tin-plated brass)
  • 60617-4 (Socket, 18-22 AWG, tin-plated phosphor bronze)

The pins tend to be corroded and cause connectivity issues. If certain features on your game are not functioning properly, the problem is likely caused by a corroded pin and socket. Additionally, a single signal path may travel through upwards of 5 connection points between the source and destination, so any one of those connectors could be causing a problem because of resistance caused by the corrosion, or lack of any contact at all.

Corrodded pins
Corrodded sockets


It is recommended to replace all the Mate-N-Lok connector pins if there are signs of corrosion. However, the connectors are rather pricey compared to their Molex counterparts, so the cost will add up quickly.

One alternate suggestion is to instead replace everything with standard 12-pin Molex housings and 0.084" connectors. However, the original connector housings are color-coded instead of keyed, so the color coding would be lost and it would be very easy to mix up the plugs and receptacles and connect the wrong ones together. Also, it is currently not confirmed if the standard Molex housings will fit through the mounting brackets.

3.3 Switches

3.3.1 Generation 1

3.3.2 Generation 2

All generation 2/3 solid-state ALI / Fascination games use the exact same MPU board and software; game "rules" are changed simply by rearranging the placement of switches, targets, lamps, pop bumpers, and other elements on the playfield.


# J1 J1 reverse J2 J2 reverse J3 J3 reverse # # J4 J5 J6 # credit disp player disp #
1 unused unused 7k bonus lamp 8k bonus lamp p2 disp LED 2 p2 disp LED 5 A 1 Q66 drop target C coil 100 pt chime 1 data data 1
2 unused unused 4k bonus lamp 6k bonus lamp p2 disp LED 3 p2 disp LED 4 B 2 right gate coil C bumper coil 10 pt chime 2 blank blank 2
3 unused special w/lit switch 1k bonus lamp 2k bonus lamp shoot again lamp unused C 3 Q62 L slingshot coil play counter 3 +6v dc +6v dc 3
4 10 pt rail switch ball in play switch unused 3k bonus lamp unused unused D 4 flipper power relay drop target B coil unused 4 ground ground 4
5 outhole switch R bumper switch 9k bonus lamp 5k bonus lamp unused unused E 5 unused unused unused 5 clock clock 5
6 L bumper switch R collect val switch p1 disp LED 1 score display E unused unused F 6 unused drop target D coil replay counter 6 +5v dc +5v dc 6
7 L collect val switch R slingshot switch score display H p1 disp LED 3 unused unused H 7 40v return R bumper coil unused 7 LED 5 7
8 C bumper switch L slingshot switch L 1k pt lamp unused unused unused J 8 40v return unused unused 8 LED 3 8
9 drop target C switch drop target D switch L 2k pt lamp unused unused unused K 9 40v return drop target A coil unused 9 LED 1 9
10 unused L 3k pt lamp unused unused unused L 10 +5v dc unused Q30 10 LED 4 10
11 roll tilt switch credit button unused L 4k pt lamp unused unused M 11 +5v dc unused unused 11 LED 2 11
12 raise drop A switch raise drop D switch 2X bonus lamp 10k bonus lamp unused unused N 12 +5v dc outhole coil unused 12
13 close gate switch R 1k pt lamp 3X bonus lamp unused unused P 13 5v return R slingshot coil 1000 pt chime 13
14 500 pt rollover switch raise drop B switch R 2k pt lamp R 4k pt lamp unused unused R 14 5v return unused knocker coil 14
15 raise drop C switch E.B. w/lit switch special lamp R 3k pt lamp unused unused S 15 5v return L bumper coil GI relay? 15
16 slam tilt switch 2P jumper unused unused unused unused T 16
17 test button p2 disp LED 1 extra ball lamp unused unused U 17
18 unused unused unused unused V 18
19 2P jumper unused credit/start button unused unused W 19
20 score display 24 coin 3 coin 3 unused unused X 20
21 credit disp clock score display 2 coin 2 coin 2 unused unused Y 21
22 p2 disp clock p1 disp clock coin 1 coin 1 drop target B switch drop target B switch Z 22
23 score display 3 score display 23 +5v dc out +5v dc out +5v dc out +5v dc out a 23
24 p2 disp blank unused slam tilt switch 2 drop target A switch drop target A switch b 24
25 p1 disp blank all disp data cabinet switch ret cabinet switch ret pf switch ret pf switch ret c 25


3.4 Relay/Solenoid Drivers

3.4.1 Generation 1

3.4.1.1 Dyno-mite

While the relay drive board is fully populated, not all the transistors are actually in use.

Dyno-Mite Relay Drivers
Pin Transistor Relay
B Q22 Replay Relay
C Q23 Ball Reset Relay
D Q24 Gate Relay
E Q19 Game Relay
F Q20 Tilt Relay
H Q21 Playfield Lights Relay
K Q17 Target A Relay
L Q18 Target B Relay
M Q13 10 Point Relay
N Q14 100 Point Relay
P Q15 1000 Point Relay
U Q7 Target D Relay
V Q8 Target C Relay

4 Problems & Fixes

4.1 Fuse Holders

The fuse holders in all full-size Allied Leisure pinball machines are known for poor tension and clips breaking easily because of the thin, weak metal that was used. This can lead to intermittent and unreliable operation.

In order to ensure proper and reliable operation, go through and replace all the fuse holders. This is a required modification.

Make sure to label the wires in some way before desoldering so that they don't get mixed up accidently. The easist way to desolder the holders without accidently melting the insulation on neighboring wires is to start with the bottom most fuses of each strip and work your way up.

Drill a hole on each black dot for each mounting screw. This way, the fuse holder will be level with the labels and it will be easy to tell which label corresponds with which fuse holder. A #6 1/2" screw can be used to mount each new holder.

When soldering the wires to the new fuse holders, start from the bottom most fuse, and work your way up. This should help prevent the soldering iron from accidentally grazing and melting the insulation of neighboring wires, like when desoldering the original strip of fuse holders.

5 Parts Substitutions & Replacements

5.1 Playfield

5.2 Backbox

5.3 Cabinet

5.3.1 Playfield Rails

The playfield rails inside the cabinet appear to be nearly identical to the playfield rails found in Gottlieb System 1 games. However, the Allied Leisure rails are painted what what looks like a heat-resistant flat black, rather than left bare.

5.3.2 Legs

Generation 1 Allied Leisure legs are 29.5", painted gray, and have a 5-1/4" rib (instead of a rib going down the whole length of the leg). The leg is pinched slightly around the length of the rib. The original part number was 264-3-42.

A Gottlieb 28.5" dark gray non-ribbed leg might be a close possible substitution (Part LEG-28GR from PBResource).

A Williams System 11 28.5" half-rib leg might also be a close substitution.

6 Recommended Modifications

7 Documentation

7.1 Incorrect Labels

7.1.1 Incorrect Fuse Labels

On Dyno-mite, the bottom panel has an incorrect fuse value for the 5VDC fuse in the upper left. 5 Amp is printed on the label, however, the schematics call for an 8 Amp fuse. For later games, be sure to check the schematics to verify the correct fuse value.

7.1.2 Incorrect Relay & Timing Circuit Labels

In Dyno-mite, the row of relays on the bottom panel correctly correspond to their labels. However, the "Timing Circuits" that correspond the Relays for targets A through D are mislabeled.

The left-most terminal strip in the timing circuits section should be designated "D", followed by "C", "B", and "A" all the way on the right.

The row of relays. Note that the bracket that normally secures the relays has been removed.
The row of terminal strips in the timing circuits section. Note that the labels are incorrect. The left-most label should instead be "Target D" and descend alphabetically to "Target A" on the right.


To check which terminal strip is associated with each relay:

  1. Remove relays for targets A through D from their sockets
  2. On one of the the terminal strips in the "Timing Circuits" section, touch one of the multimeter leads on the bottom terminal (closest to the bank of relays).
  3. Use the multimeter's other lead to probe pin 14 of each relay socket until the multimeter buzzes. When it buzzes, label the terminal strip appropriately to match the relay's label.

7.2 Service Bulletins

Allied Leisure Service Bulletin - 180V Power Supply & 5V Regulator Modifications

8 Game Specific Problems & Repairs

9 Repair Logs