Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure Shop Guide

1 INDIANA JONES RESTORATION GUIDE

BY

GARRET LEE

MARCH 31,1999

2 Cleaning your Indiana Jones Pinball Machine

These documents describe how to completely and thoroughly 'shop out' your Indiana Jones (IJ) pinball machine. 'Shop out' is an amusement industry term which means to go through a machine and make sure its working 100% and ready to be placed on location to make money. I am going to describe, in detail, how to completely take apart your IJ, cleaning and checking various parts, and putting it back together. I will include several tips that I've learned in my past 6 years of shopping out pins for a living. The cleaning that I will describe will be even more detailed than I do when I shop out pins for my company. You should only need to do this detailed of a cleaning once in a great while. Later, only quick playfield cleaning will be necessary depending on the amount of use your IJ gets.

This process will take time, please don't cut any corners. In the end you will have a great sense of satisfaction knowing that your IJ is in 100% condition. After this cleaning it should be 100% factory condition except for playfield wear and any broken plastics. This is how I shop out pins, if you have any problems or questions with the process, please email me.

I wrote these documents while actually shopping out my IJ. It took me several days, working a couple hours per day. Since I wrote down everything I've done while actually shopping out my IJ, these documents are meant to be a checklist for you as you shop out yours along with me. Go through every step, in the same order I've done mine. If you get stuck, email me, I'll be happy to walk you through any steps. I have a digital camera and can even take pictures of my IJ to illustrate any points that may be unclear. I'm just an ordinary guy like yourself, don't be bashful, let me know if you have any problems in your shopping out process.

I would like to mention, here, that I own a regular USA production Indiana Jones. If you own that was made for another country, it may be different in that it probably has a different software version and the coin door on the front of the machine is probably a different style. It's also wired for your voltage system.

My Indiana Jones is not a prototype model. You may own a prototype model, which is a little bit different than the regular production model. Here's a list of differences that I know about…

Prototype has gold/bronze colored (metal?) side rails on the tilting mini-playfield. Production model has red plastic here.
Prototype has 'Lost Plastic' plastic along the entire back wood panel of the playfield. Production has no plastic back there. I'll include a note during the shop-out about when I think you'd want to remove this plastic and when to re-install it. There's a picture of this plastic on the Stage 1 page.
Prototype has three blinking lights on the speaker panel just underneath the dot-matrix-display. These lamps are tied in with the same jackpot lamps in the middle of the playfield. Production models have the graphic on the speaker panel plastic, but no lamps behind them, just solid wood.

That's all of the differences I can think of right now! I have heard there was a beautiful plastic designed for underneath the right ramp. If your IJ has a beautiful plastic under the right ramp, then you really have a unique piece. Most Indiana Jones' have a plain, yellow with tan 'bricks' colored piece here.

Specifically, this shop out took me around 25 hours. I put in about 3 or 4 hours per night, plus a whole day that I had off from work. If you have a digital camera, you may find it useful to take pictures of the playfield as you disassemble it. My pictures do not really show specifics, you may want to take close-up pictures of the different assemblies before you remove them. I've written some steps fairly long. Please read an entire step before doing it. A 'step' is a sentence or group of sentences that start with a '-'. Read the entire step because I get wordy and sometimes re-word the previous sentence which may be better for you to understand. Just off the top of my head I'm going to list the things that I've made runs to the hardware store for: 409, Windex, tough paper towels (the blue ones), Foam weather-stripping for the stand-up target backing and fender washers for slingshots. Tools: deep socket nut drivers (like screwdrivers except for nuts), The size for the two different size nuts on the slingshots (I can't remember the sizes off hand), and a quarter inch one which had a magnet in it so it would hold the screw while I fed it to its screw-hole. Actually the magnet of this tool was designed to 'hold' different types of screw-heads, but I never used the screw-heads, just the quarter-inch shaft. I also ended up getting some more quarter-inch hex head machine screws as used throughout the machine to screw down plastics.

3 STAGE 1: The Disassembly

First you will need some space to set the parts you remove from the machine. I usually have 3 main piles: Plastics (I put into the coin box), Ramps, and a container for the screws. In this detailed cleaning, we'll also have a 'pile' for playfield metal guides, rubbers, lamps, and posts. If you are not comfortable throwing all of the screws into a container because you may forget what goes where, re-screw them into their holes after you have removed what they hold. When I finished, I had two sort of unique screws that I wasn't sure where they went. I ended up using them in the center plastic/airplane area. These screws are: Rounded head, phillips screw with star washer, short with same threads as all of the hex head machine screws used throughout the game for plastics. The second screw was a hex head screw with a phillips slot on top, it had a star washer and same threads as before. If you come across these two, be sure to remark to yourself where these two 'unique' screws go. (All the rest of the screws in the machine with this thread have a plain hex head, except for the two that hold the target to the captive ball railing, if I remember correctly). You'll see how there are really only three or four different types of screws. Some for going into wood, into metal posts, through thick wood (longer ones), and tiny ones for ramps and pop bumper caps.

Remove glass and backglass and set aside.
Remove the 6 balls (some may be inside the idol).
Remove coin box so we can put plastics in it later.
Raise playfield.
Unplug all in-wire connectors. Most of the connectors are from above the playfield, there are some from the under playfield tunnel and idol motor also. There's also a connector that comes from out of the rear of the playfield. I've counted 21 connectors that I unplugged on mine. As you unplug connectors that come from above the playfield, make sure that you will later be able to pull from above the playfield and these wires will come out. That is, clip any zip-ties and unwrap the wires from any clips that may impede the wire from being pulled through the playfield.

You may find it VERY convenient to, before unplugging a connector, number the connector. That is put the number on both the male and the female connectors before unplugging them. I'd use a thin felt tip marker and label each 1 through 21 as you unplug them. This way, when you plug them back in, you just have to match up '1 male' with '1 female' and '2 male' with '2 female' and so on. I had a little confusion when I finally finished and tried figuring out where all of the connectors go.
Unplug the little two wire (red and white) connector from the little circuit board just under the right inlane. This connector is for the idol motor. Unwrap these two wires from the clip so that when we remove the idol motor assembly nothing will be grabbing this wire.
Locate the solenoid that energizes the right ramp diverter. It's under the right ramp (under the playfield). It's a yellow coil number FL11753-1. Out of this coil is a metal shaft with a spring. This shaft is tied with another little spring to a part that 'screws' to the bottom of the ramp diverter piece. Locate and loosen the set screw in the side of this. It's a small allen (hex) screw which should be 'facing' the left side of the pinball machine. Unscrew this set screw so that we will be able to pull up on the metal ramp diverter later on and pull it out. (When we do so, this piece will fall down in the cabinet).

You may be able to remove this part and spring right now, depends on how much force you feel comfortable in removing it. I said to 'let if fall' when you remove the diverter piece later, it will fall out without any resistance.
Lower the playfield, leave it in the 'pulled out and latched' position.
Unscrew the 'apron'. The metal part that covers the ball tough area. There should be four screws holding it down from above, and sometimes two more from the front. Set this aside. Put screws in a container or re-screw them in the holes if you are uncomfortable with mixing the screws. This will apply for now on with all screws.

If your apron screws also had washers, make yourself a little remark about it, mine didn't, but I think I've seen pins with phillips screws with washers.
Remove the 3 metal pieces that the apron was screwed to. 11 hex wood screws. This will make it easier to completely clean the playfield. For now on, I'll be removing lots of parts people don't ordinarily remove, all for the same reason, a bare playfield will be so much easier to clean.
Remove metal piece just to the right, in the ball shooter lane. 2 screws.
This piece protector piece for the right side of the shooter lane.
Remove metal piece just to left of the ball shooter solenoid, 2 screws.
So far I've been putting the pieces in the coin box. This is a good method of doing things, especially the plastics because it allows stacking of pieces just right. I'll throw the pieces in the coin box and they will pile up in such a way, that when I re-assemble the machine I just have to pick off the top of what's in the coin box. The pieces we take off first will be at the bottom of the cash box, so they will ultimately be the last things I put back on when I re-assemble the machine.
Remove metal 'guard' piece on lower left side by the left outlane. 2 nuts.
Remove the two gold colored rail ramps on left side.
Sometimes, when unscrewing nuts the post underneath will unscrew from the playfield. You'll need to either use needle nose pliers to hold onto the post while unscrewing the nut, or just unscrew the post with the nut and separate them, then put the post back for now.
NOTE: My IJ doesn't have the German airplane installed. Just remove it now, or when we start removing ramps and plastics in that part of the playfield.

I will document putting the airplane back during re-assembly so don't worry about when to put it back on.

Two more 'unique' screws that I wasn't sure exactly where they were 'supposed' to go... There are many hex head machine screws throughout the game, I had ended up with two of them shorter than the rest. You'll see during re-assembly that I had put them in the left ramp top screw-down, and in the plastic just to the right of the left ramp entrance. You may want to make a special note to yourself if you come across these screws so you know where they are 'supposed' to go.
Remove left slingshot plastic and any washers. (replace washers just like screws, if you are not comfortable with throwing them all into a container).
For now on, when I say to remove a plastic, I'm assuming you're going to put it into the coin box.
Remove the green plastic that was under far left rail ball guide you just removed.
At top of playfield, remove the metal 'bridge' piece. There's two screws on top and one that's hard to reach on the lower side of it.
Note, my IJ didn't have the lower screw installed.
On left of mini-playfield, remove the metal ball path. 2 screws.
Remove the green plastic on lower left of playfield (covers ADV targets). You have to remove two nuts, and the two wood screws. The two wood screws can only be unscrewed just a little and the plastic should lift out.
Remove the ball path guide piece just to the left of the ADV targets.
Loosen the tiny allen (hex) lock-nut that holds the mini-playfield to the mini-playfield motor shaft. Look at the top part of the mini-playfield. There are two hex nuts to loosen, loosen the one closest to the mini-playfield. The other hex nut holds a metal piece, which moves back and forth between two opto switches (This is how the machine knows when the mini-playfield is tilted left or right.
Remove two nuts that holds the lower part of mini-playfield to the playfield. These nuts are near the lower part of the mini playfield through a piece of metal that comes out of it. (see manual instructions for removing the mini-playfield if you're confused). Be careful not to put too much pressure on the motor shaft at the top of the mini-playfield assembly.

The manual stresses to 'not put too much pressure on the motor shaft' for the mini-playfield. I don't really think it's that big of a deal. It's a tough motor and I'm sure it can handle a little pressure.
Carefully slide the mini-playfield toward the front of the machine. Once it comes out of the motor shaft, pull the mini-playfield out of the machine and pull up on the wires that come through the playfield (they should all be unplugged from earlier step)
Unscrew the three screws in the inlane-outlane divider right by the left flipper. The screws have to come up about a half inch before the entire plastic piece can be removed. Remove it.-Remove the right side metal ball rail-ramp.
Remove the right side sling-shot cover plastic.
Unscrew and remove right side inlane-outlane divider and 'last chance' return gate.
Loosen two screws just to the right of the right outlane plastic, remove the plastic.
Remove the lower pop-bumper cover (cap).
Remove the 'Raise jackpot when flashing' plastic assembly in center of playfield. There's going to be a nut that's hiding under the green part of it.
Remove the left ramp. Two tiny phillips screws in the front where ball enters the ramp and one screw in the rear which is obvious to see.
Remove the plastic covering the 'start mode' saucer.
Remove the plastic just above the 'start mode' saucer. The plastic that was underneath the mini-playfield.
Remove the left and right pop-bumper caps.
Unscrew and remove the plastic piece which screws into the right ramp which covers the ramp diverter piece.
Pull up on the metal ramp diverter piece. Keep the washers with this piece, we don't want to misplace them. There should be two washers under the diverter's 'arm'.
The part under the playfield should now fall down, be sure not to lose it when we re-assemble it. There should be a metal shaft that went into the coil. It should be attached by a spring to a piece that 'clamps' to the end of the diverter. The second part that fell is a spring that went around the metal shaft as it went into the coil.
Remove the right ramp assembly. Three screws at the top, two mini phillips screws at the bottom and two regular screws at the bottom sides.
Remove the V or U shaped metal piece just under the right ramp.
Remove the two plastic pieces that were under the right ramp.
Remove the left three INDY lane dividers. Just remove each set of dividers as a whole unit (two screws) and set them aside, it's a good idea to set them down somewhere in the right order. (ie. The one with the long post is far left). Don't put these in the cash box, just set them aside.
Remove the metal flap that's covering the right side of INDY ball gate. (it's screwed into the back of the playfield)
Remove the plastic just to the right of the INDY lanes.
Remove the red 'light hood' that was under the plastic we just removed.

NOTE: There's a hole under this fourth light hood for a general illumination lamp. But it looks like they tried saving a little money and cut this light out of production. (I've seen several INDYs without this lamp installed.)
Remove the captive ball wire railing. One screw into the back playfield panel, and two nuts down in front by where the ball 'rests'.

Note: During re-assembly I wasn't sure if the screw that went into the back of the playfield had a washer or not. You may want to make yourself a note, I'll make a reference to this note below during re-assembly.

UPDATE: Remember that I have a regular production IJ which doesn’t have the ‘Lost Plastic on the rear wood panel of the playfield. I don’t know how much stress the following step will put on the plastic, so I just want to say here be very careful. If it appears it could crack the plastic, maybe we can figure out a better way of removing the captive ball rail-tube.
Now, removing this part takes a little bit of force. Push back on the rear playfield panel just a little and pull up on the captive ball railing. It should pop out. The ball should also try to make a run for it (after years of captivity). Remove the opto assembly (we just unscrewed it with the two nuts) Remove the ball. The target in the back of the captive ball, behind the rear panel needs to be unscrewed from this piece. Two screws at the base of the target hold it to the railing. Unscrew them and let the target dangle in the rear of the machine. These two screws seem to be unique, don't get them mixed up with the rest of the screws. Remove the railing.
Remove the green plastic in upper right corner of playfield. One nut has to be removed, and two screws need to be loosened a little.

UPDATE: This looks like where you would want to unscrew the Lost Plastic piece from the rear wood panel of the playfield. You might want to make a note of the types of screws it had to hold it on because I don’t know. It probably uses philips head wood screws.
Remove the four screws into the idol assembly cover plastic. Remove the plastic (it is actually two plastics which were screwed together by one of the four screws we just unscrewed. These screws are black colored on my IJ, these are unique so I'm not mixing them also so that I remember to install the same black screws when I re-assemble.
With the playfield pullout out in the latched position, you can stick your hand in the right side and pull down on the idol exit piece. With the idol exit pulled down, look in, under the idol's head in the area where the balls sit. There is a single allen set screw that holds the idol to the motor shaft. If the set screw isn't facing out so we can unscrew it, turn on the machine and let the idol spin until you can see the allen nut, when you see it, turn the game off so we can loosen this nut. Loosen this nut and pull up and remove the idol head. Its best to hold down the idol exit piece while unscrewing the set screw.
Remove all tools and parts off the playfield and raise it up.
Unscrew and remove the motor bracket for the idol motor. Don't panic, it's just three screws. Two on the inner side and one on the outer side (near the edge of the playfield).

During re-assembly I wasn't positive if these screws were phillips or hex head. Please make a note to yourself here (if it's hex or phillips).
Now you should see a triangle of three phillip head screws going into the playfield which hold the yellow idol in place from under the playfield. Unscrew these three screws and make sure the idol piece doesn't fall when you remove the last screw. Remove the yellow idol part from above the playfield.
Lower the playfield into the pulled out and latched position again.
Remove the orange trim piece that was under the idol part. It's a good idea to re-screw the long 1/4 piece back into the thread. Otherwise, it's a common mistake to simply re-assemble it with a regular nut, and realize that this long piece should have gone there when we go to put on the idol cover pieces.
Remove all rubbers (rings, posts, and flipper rubbers). Keep them if you plan on cleaning them and re-installing them.
This is the end of normal dis-assembly.

The following will be the super-intensive disassembly description. I'm going to remove the pins and metal ball guides. This will make it much easier to clean the corners and cracks that's normally hard to get at when pins and metal pieces are still on the playfield. I'm starting a pile of 'metal pieces' now, and a bucket of pins and long screws that hold the pins in place. The playfield is pretty bare right now. It is possible modify this document so you don't have to remove any more playfield parts. You will have to figure out where to pick up during the re-assembly process. To help me remember what pins go where and with what long nuts, I've make a photocopy of the page from the manual that lists all of the pins and posts the machine has. Then I label each pin and post with a letter or number. Then I copied a page from the manual with a diagram of the playfield. I then mark where which pin and nut cam from. For example I label the lower pin for the right side of lower sling shot at 1A. The 1 refers to the long nut with threading on the top and bottom. The A refers to the "star post #8". I have a number/letter combination for every pin I take off. There are two more screws you'll need to draw into the diagram and label. One is a long phillips threaded screw like used in the slingshot pins and INDY lane dividers. The other is a long phillips wood screw also used in the INDY dividers. You can find these manual pages plus how I used them on my web page.

On the controlled gates at top of playfield: remove the little control spring from the armature. Just slide the loop of the spring off the gate's arm. Unscrew the two screws holding each gate to the playfield. The screws for the right one are tricky, but possible to remove. (I used needle-nose pliers).
Remove all posts and pins that you can on the top side of the playfield as above instructions, write down where all different types of pins and posts go. There are three adjustable posts, one by each outlane and one by the idol exit, they have an additional nut on the underside of the playfield holding them in, unscrew the nut first or hold onto it with pliers when unscrewing the post. There are three posts in the captive ball area that are screwed into the playfield, they have a hex base that you can put a wrench to and unscrew, keep the washers under them with the posts as you set them aside. Without these washers, playfield wear increases when these posts get loose during game play. There is also another post you can unscrew with the hex base just to the left of the ENT drop targets.
There are 8 posts which are held on by a nut and washer below the playfield, I'll take them off later, I'll say it below when I do. (The posts on each side of the ramp entrances and by idol lock shot. One by the captive ball area)
Remove all lamps and flasher lights that come through the playfield (the general illumination lights and flashers). Don't forget the lights in the pop bumpers. Set these aside in a container.
Remove all metal ball guides. Most are screwed onto the top part of the playfield with screws and bolted through the playfield with a nut on the underside. Remove all nuts and screws and remove all metal ball guides. This includes the metal rounded 'scoops' for the start mode and idol lock shots. There are some metal ball guides which are just thin pieces of wire glued into the playfield. I'm not removing these parts because they are glued into place and not a hassle to clean around.

For the metal guides that you have to raise the playfield and unscrew a nut and washer. It's a good idea to rescrew the nut and washer to the metal piece when setting it aside. I'll list the metal parts I have to unscrew from under the playfield here: First the small metal piece just to the left of INDY lanes. There's one nut under the playfield holding it on. Remove it and the metal piece. Metal guide piece just to the left of "Super Jackpot" light. One nut and washer below playfield. Remove them. Metal 'wedge' piece just under right ramp. One nut and washer below playfield. Metal guide piece on left side of right loop shot. One nut and washer. Metal guide just to left of left outlane. One nut under playfield, no washer. Note removing this nut will also remove what holds the LEFT support arm for holding the playfield in the 'pulled out and latched' position. After removing this part, be careful as only one nut will be holding the support arm in place. Metal idol exit ramp. Five nuts and four washers under playfield. Note one nut holds the RIGHT playfield support arm in place. From now on, be careful when raising the playfield as only one nut is holding each support arm in place.

The remaining metal pieces can all be moved from the top side of the playfield. Note a unique short phillips screw on right side of playfield holding the long U shaped loop metal. Two unique flathead phillips holding the ball shooter lane metal "ramp". What the heck, I even removed the metal piece on the back panel of playfield (the piece that the right ramp screws to). Note the lower end of the ball guide on the left side of the shooter lane overlaps the INSIDE of the idol exit ramp.
Raise playfield and remove the standup targets. There are two screws per target. There are 7 targets. ADV three targets. ENT One narrow target. URE three targets. Let them dangle below the playfield.
There are 4 sling-shot blade switches. Two screws for each switch. Remove the screws and let the switches dangle below the playfield.
Remove the under-playfield ball path for the lock shot to the idol. There are five wood screws and one 'machine screw'. I'd put the machine screw back in the hole after removing the part. When I tried removing the part, one of my opto's was wired intertwined with the other wiring in the machine. I had to temporarily remove the opto from the part, unwind it, and screw it back in so I could remove the part from the machine.
Now, I removed the 8 posts which are held on by a nut and washer. I'd rescrew the washer and nut onto the thread when setting these aside. Remember to write down where each type of post goes on a diagram of the playfield.
Unscrew the metal scoop that is for where the popper pops the ball from under the playfield to the Idol. The coil doesn't 'unplug' so let this part dangle under the playfield.

You don't have to let it 'dangle', you can tuck this part under the playfield wiring bundles so it won't dangle. I am now finished with the disassembly process. Currently the only things on top of the playfield are the: flipper bats, slingshot kickers, pop bumpers, Idol 'release' gate, wire form ball guides (glued into playfield), mini playfield motor and optos, and the ball trough and shooter lane kicker. You may choose, having gone this far, to even remove the above parts (the pop bumpers and ball trough will be an extreme pain in the rear). If you do, be sure to write down, similar to what I've done, so you can go in reverse of what you've written down to reassemble it later. I started soaking the 'star posts' the yellow plastic posts for the sling shots etc. I threw them into a cup with hot soapy water. Soaking the posts didn't really help. I still had to scrub the heck out of them when I cleaned them. (I describe this cleaning later). The above took a couple nights of work.

4 STAGE 2: Cleaning the playfield

Now, forget about all of the parts that we have removed from the playfield. This stage focus on the playfield only, not the parts. We'll focus on the parts during the re-assembly phase.

Clean the top of the playfield. Clean everything you can without raising the playfield up. This includes the wood edging and wood playfield backing. Since 'playfield cleaner' is expensive, I usually spend most of my cleaning with 409, then once it is cleaned with 409, I use Novus #2 and #1 plastic polishes. (the 'blue stuff' is also a good final polish (Gemeni)). Also clean the pop bumper housings and actuator disks, the flipper bats. (I clean ALL rubber remnants from the flipper bats so they are shiny), clean the idol exit plastic part and shooter coil. It looks like there is a tight spot by the mini-playfield motor area, I used q-tips to clean the corners here. Clean the slingshot kickers also. Just clean everything!!

While cleaning the top of the playfield I decided to unscrew the ball trough. It's 5 screws from above the playfield and two on the underside. I just let it dangle while cleaning the playfield. I used a moist q-tip and cleaned under the pop-bumper actuator ring. Wipe the insides of the machine's cabinet that you can get to while the playfield is in its current position. Take your time and examine the playfield at all angles with the light reflecting from the playfield to be sure you didn't miss any areas.

Clean the dangling ball trough. Wipe the optos with a q-tip. It not easy to clean but, at least clean up the area where the ball sits in. Also clean up the blue rubber part on top. If you break a wire off the coil, re-solder it back on.
Raise the playfield

-Clean inside of the cabinet sides that can be reached with playfield in this position.

Clean the wood under the playfield which was hidden by the 'under playfield tunnel' from lock to idol.
Clean under the 'super jackpot' lamp, red plastic (just because it's easy to get to).
Clean the four slingshot blade switches as they dangle under the playfield. There’s probably some white playfield cleaner on them. They may be tarnished as well, at least get the gunk off them.
Screw these blade switches back to the playfield. Two hex wood screws per switch. Four switches. 8 screws total.
NOTE, when screwing wood screws back into the playfield, if they just turn and strip the wood without tightening, take the screw out, shove a couple toothpicks into the hole and break the toothpicks so they are flush with the wood, re-screw the screw into the hole. The toothpicks fill the stripped hole with more wood for the screw to grab onto.
Unscrew the three screws for the left two 'Indy's friends' lights about 1/4 inch. The litle circuit board should be able to come off without taking the screws all the way out. Clean the three lights, and clean the underside of the lights (the friends lights).
Rescrew this circuit board back to playfield.
Unscrew the three screws for the right two 'Indy's friends' and repeat cleaning process as above.
Unplug the three connectors to the large center circuit board for lights. Unscrew the 7 screws holding this circuit board to the playfield. Remove the circuit board and clean the light bulbs. Clean the underside of the lamp graphics under the playfield. Re-install this circuit board, screw it in and plug in the 3 connectors back in.
Unscrew and clean the circuit board for the INDY lane lights like above.
I'm not specifically cleaning the remaining lamps, because, in my experience just the circuit board style lamps collect lots of dust and last longer than the other. (#555 last longer than #47 & #44), lasting longer, they collect more dust.
Standup targets: 6 round ones and 1 narrow one. While they are dangling under the playfield, clean each one individually and install it. Clean both sides of the plastic. If the foam is crappy, or gone, clean off the remaining adhesive on the metal and cut a narrow piece of weather stripping and stick it there. (I'm replacing bad foam backing), Hardware stores carry wide weather stripping that works just right for cutting and using as standup target backing. I use Dennis brand #263. It is 1/4" thick, 3/4" wide (and 10' long) with sponge rubber (Not the 'UV' rubber stuff). Clean the contacts on each target also. The most common way is to use a slightly rough paper like that found on business cards. Put the paper between the two contacts and apply pressure to close the contacts against the paper and rub the paper back and forth. This usually does a good job of cleaning contact switches.
Clean as much of the ball popper from under the playfield to idol as you can. Re# screw it back to the underside of the playfield. 6 hex 1/4 inch wood screws. Be sure to clean the opto switch.
Rebuilding the 3-bank drop target assy. I always rebuild the drop target assemblies when I shop out a pinball machine. Unplug the connector to the opto circuit board. Unscrew the 6 screws holding the assembly to the playfield. Slide the assembly out from under the ENT light bulbs.
Unscrew bracket closest to top of solenoid and remove the bracket.
Loosen nuts on other solenoid bracket. Angle the solenoid and it should come out, make sure the drop target reset plate is all the way down so the solenoid can come out. Once the coil is out, let it dangle, take the assembly to a table for cleaning.
Clean the solenoid bracket we removed
Remove and Clean the reset plate/solenoid shaft part, make sure it's nut is firmly screwed in.
Turn the assembly over, circuit board up.
Remove the three E clips, two clips have a washer under them, the third one doesn't.
Lift the circuit board off, clean it up. Be sure to clean the inside of the U shaped opto switches.
Remove the drop targets for cleaning. For each target there is : A pull-down spring, an E clip on the bottom. On the top post is: E clip, washer, spring, washer, drop target, and another washer.
Clean up the metal assembly.
Clean the three drop target plastics.
Set the assembly down, posts pointing up.
Place a washer on each upper post (may want to clean washers too).
Place the three drop targets on place.

NOTE: Lately, at work, I've been dabbing a tiny bit of lubricant grease on the part of the drop target that slides against the drop target plastic. Also a dab of grease on the front of the target that rubs against the front of the assembly. I'm not going to do it during this particular cleaning (mainly because I don't have any of the grease with me right now, it was a white, thick grease). It's your own choice here, I'd try it without grease first, if the targets seem to drop fine when we get it together, then don't worry about it.

Put a washer on the top post again, this washer and the previous washer should sandwich the plastic drop target on the upper post.
Place a small spring on the upper post of each drop target.
Place the last washer on each of the three posts. This washer and the previous one will sandwich the spring on the upper post.
Clip an E clip onto each post (all six)
Hook up the 'pull down' spring to the side of each target to the little tooth on the metal assembly.
Now, manual pull up each target and flick it with your finger, If they don't drop quick, then you can either shorten it's pull down spring to make it pull harder or try adding a dab of grease as mentioned above. Mine worked super without any grease or modification of the pull down spring!

I'm not sure, maybe instead of grease, if you're having slow targets, try a dry lubricant like graphite powder. Just an afterthought. I've never tried it myself.

Put the opto circuit board back on. Make sure the optos are facing the drop targets (not facing out!), and the connector pins are facing down.
Put two washers on the bottom two shafts.
Put the three E clips on the shafts securing the opto board in place.
place the reset plate/solenoid shaft in the assembly, Make sure the reset 'fingers' are under each plastic target. (pull the targets up)
Go to the machine and cleanup the solenoid and its sleeve. The sleeve goes in so that the part of the sleeve that protrudes out of the coil, protrudes out of the side of the coil where the wire lugs are.
Take the drop target assembly to the machine and put the coil back into the assembly, taking care that the reset plate fingers are always under the drop targets and not in the little oval part of the drop target. (pull the targets up)
Sandwich the coil into the assembly with the coil bracket and put the nuts back on and tighten them up! Make sure the coil lugs are on the bottom side and facing out (not to the side). Test your work by simulating a coil energizing. Pull up on the reset plate and flick the targets down with your finger. Should work smoothly.
Slide the drop target assembly back under the ENT targets and screw it back into the playfield. Plug the connector back into the opto circuit board.
I've found it necessary for IJ to put a rubber band or loosely zipped zip-tie around the drop target adjustment screws and around the opto board connector. This places a little pressure on the optos so they are closer to the drop target plastics. I've had problems such that the optos were just not close enough to the drop targets and a little vibration in the game would trigger the switch (when the target was down, the vibration would cause the opto to trigger because it wasn't close enough to the plastic drop target).
Clean the pop bumper contact switches. Put a rough piece of paper (like a slice of a business card) in between the contacts and squeeze the switch closed and rub the paper a few times (at least until the paper stops picking up dirt). There is one switch under each pop bumper (3 switches total).
Remove the three screws that hold the single drop target under the playfield. There's too many wires holding this sucker in, we'll have to clean it up while it's in the pinball cabinet.
Remove the pull-down spring.
Remove the two E clips.
Under the upper E clip is a washer, spring, and washer.
Take care not to bend the microswitch actuator arm.
Remove the drop target plastic.
My IJ has a washer under BOTH shafts under the drop target, remove them. (where I'm used to seeing only one washer under the upper shaft of drop targets)
Clean up the washers and springs and drop target plastic.
Clean up the metal assembly. Take care that your towel doesn't catch on the switch armature and bend it or break it off. Clean up that armature, the metal, the moving shaft into the solenoid. Clean it up as much as you can.
Put the a washer on each shaft.
Place the drop target plastic back onto the assembly.
Place a washer on the top shaft. This will sandwich the drop target plastic between two washers.
Put the small spring on the top shaft.
Put the last washer on the top shaft, this will sandwich the small spring between two washers.
Put an E clip on each shaft.
Install the pull down spring.
Test the unit out by pulling up on the reset plate and tapping the 'drop target down' coil magnet. The magnet pulls on a little arm that taps the target down.
Reinstall the assembly back to the playfield.
The flippers: For Each flipper:
I like to work on the flippers with the playfield angled with the side arm propping the playfield in a 45 degree angle.
Remove the two allen nuts holding on the coil stop bracket. There should be a lock washer on each nut.
Remove the coil stop bracket and clean it.
Slide the coil off and clean it up. Put a moist towel through it and clean out the middle (I don't bother removing the sleeve, I just clean it up).
Here you have several options. Examine the flipper shaft. The tip of it should be beveled in. Over time this bevel flattens out and the shaft starts mushrooming which cause the flipper to go weak. You may want to remove the link and regrind or file a bevel into the shaft (or replace the entire shaft and plastic piece as one part). When removing this part, note the order of nuts and bolts. There is a nut on the inside which you hold on to while unscrewing the allen bolt. The order of parts would be: Allen bolt, washer, One side of the metal bracket, the flipper plastic piece, there’s a small round bearing inside this, the other side of the metal bracket, a washer, a lock-washer, and the nut. My flipper shafts looked good so I'm just cleaning it without removing it.
Clean up the metal plate and flipper parts.
Slide the coil back on.
Put the coil stop bracket back on.
Tighten it down with the two allen nuts and lock washers.
Tighten down the 8 hex wood screws that hold the flipper plate to the playfield.
Manually flip the flipper up and make sure it closes the EOS switch. When doing this push on the metal shaft only, if you push on the plastic part it won't properly simulate a 'flip', this is because of any looseness in the pivot points, when the coil energizes it pulls in on the metal shaft...and well its physics, just push on the end of the metal shaft to properly simulate a 'flip'.
Repeat above for other flipper.

This concludes the second stage

5 STAGE 3: Playfield Prep

Basically, this stage consists of replacing the metal parts, posts, lights and rubber rings. Be sure to take your time and don't rush things. I am going to describe putting parts back on in the exact opposite order that we removed them. This stage is really just the start of the re-assembly process. I'm breaking the re-assembly process into two stages. Use your 'pins and posts' diagram that you should have filled out in Stage one to locate where the pins are supposed to go where and with what type of screw down.

Clean and install the 8 posts that are held to the playfield with a washer and nut on the underside. (two go by 'Start mode' entrance, two by idol lock entrance, two by each ramp entrance, etc). Make sure you put the post through the top of the playfield and on the underside goes a washer and a nut.
Clean up and install the under playfield tunnel from lock shot to idol. 5 wood screws and one machine screw which I had re-screwed into the playfield. I used Q-tips to clean the optos on this part.
Clean and install large U shaped loop metal. Remember a short phillips screw went into right side. Under that thin flap, the lower flap will curve in and a small metal post will fit into a guide hole. 7 hex wood screws and the short phillips.
Clean and install the little metal ramp at end of shooter lane. The top end of this piece fits under the metal loop piece we just installed and the other end needs two small flat-head phillips screws.
Install the remaining metal ball guide pieces. This part is like a puzzle. When you find one that has a nut that needs to be put on the other side of the playfield, raise the playfield and install the washer and nut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN these nuts, just make them snug, it is very easy to over tighten them and the metal piece cuts into the playfield. The remaining metal pieces use hex wood screws (and washer and nut on underside of playfield). I'll list the order of these pieces in the order that I put them back on (clean before installing):
Remember if a wood screw strips out, fill the hole with broken toothpick(s) and try again.
Longer straight piece in between idol and shooter lane. 2 hex wood screws.
Small bracket into playfield wood back panel for right ramp. 2 long hex screws.
Curved piece for 'Lock' shot area. 2 hex wood screws.
Short metal piece just to right of 'Super Jackpot' lamp. 1 hex wood screw.
Angled piece that goes around 'Start Mode' saucer. 3 hex wood screws.
Angled piece under mini-playfield. 3 hex wood screws.
Small curved piece just behind single narrow standup target. 2 hex wood screws.
Small angled piece under mini-playfield. 2 hex wood screws.
Curved scoop for lock shot. 2 hex wood screws.
Curved scoop for start mode shot. 3 hex wood screws.
Long hex nut and washer that screws into playfield in upper left corner area.
Idol Exit ramp. Four nuts go with a washer. Fifth nut goes uses the end of the right playfield support arm instead of a washer. Remember to screw down the right side playfield support arm here. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
Metal guide piece to left of left outlane. 2 wood hex screws. One nut under playfield with the end of left support arm as a washer. (no washer, just the nut and the end of the support arm). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
V-shaped piece just to left of INDY lights. 2 wood hex screws and one nut with washer under playfield. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
Long curved piece inside right loop shot. 4 wood hex screws. 1 nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
Triangle shaped piece under right ramp. 1 hex wood screw. 1 nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
Short piece just above previous piece. 2 wood hex screws.
Short piece just to left of 'super jackpot' lamp. 1 wood hex screws, One nut and washer under playfield. No over tighten.
Turn machine on.
Clean and install each light bulb (and flasher light bulb) back into their sockets. If a bulb is black just throw it away and install a new one, black bulbs mean they are just about to go out (if they even work at all). If a bulb doesn't work as you install it, take it out and put in a good one. (this is why I turned the machine on).
General Illumination: Make sure all light just installed works (except flashers, for now).
All lights in backbox should be on (except flashers)
The pop-bumper lights should be on.
The two coin door lights should be on.
The two 'Hand of Fate' lights above each inlane should be on. (they are GI lights)
Controlled lights: Put machine in 'single lamp' test mode and verify that each light works individually. (Make sure that other lamps don't blink when they are not supposed to). If a light doesn't work, replace it!
Flasher test. Go to flasher test and make sure each playfield flasher works when it is supposed to in the test. REMEMBER: Install the yellow door switch closer part or close the coin door whenever you want to see if a particular flasher is working. Note, 'lite jackpot' and 'left ramp' flashers won't appear to work because they aren't installed yet! Also note, the 'left side' should flash two flashers on left side of playfield. The 'super ball' should flash the super ball button by the start button.
Since I'm not sure what backbox flashers are tied to which playfield flashers, now put it in "all lamps and flashers" test and make sure ever flasher in the backbox blinks, also double check that the every playfield flasher is flashing also.
Clean up the star posts. I spend a good long time cleaning up the grime from the little cracks and crevasses. It may take a good amount of scrubbing, but it's worth it in the long run.
Use the 'post map' you made during disassembly and now clean and replace every post. If a wood screw type of post strips out and doesn't tighten down, shove some toothpicks into the stripped out hole and break them so that the hole is filled with broken toothpicks (round toothpicks, are fatter and better than flat ones). The post should tighten against the toothpicks in the hole. I tightened the posts pretty good. Be careful with the plastic star posts, they can break with too much tightening.
Clean and install the controlled gates at the top of the playfield. Be sure to route the control spring through the center hole, then onto the little arm. Then screw it down, two hex wood screws each.
Install rubbers. Either clean up the ones you've removed previously or install new ones, whatever is most convenient for you. Use page 2-52 from the manual as a guide. Note that rubber 'A' for the mini-playfield and the INDY lane dividers will be installed in a later step.

I have a copy of the manual page on my web page (with corrections).

Note, brand new flipper rubbers are a round circle. Sometimes people are surprised how much stretching is necessary to install a new flipper rubber (and people are surprised that it is round, and not the shape of a flipper bat).
Note I have parts 'C' and 'D' combined. I have 12 BLACK rubber sleeves instead of 10 black and 2 yellow (the two yellow are supposed to go up at the captive ball area.
See the page that I scanned for corrections to the rubber map. There should be 17 'A's, 12 for the INDY lanes and mini-playfield, 5 for main playfield. 2 on the left and 3 on the right. I added the extra 'A's to the picture.
The manual shows two 'I's, One is to the right of the lower pop-bumper. The other is supposed to go in the right side inlane/outlane divider above the 'last chance' gate. I've found it a much better idea to just use 1 'I', the one by the pop-bumper. By the 'last chance' gate, I've found it better to use two separate 3/16" rubber bumpers-one on each post just above the 'last chance' gate.
Put machine in 'switch test' and check the sling shot switches. Adjust them to your favorite setting. Be sure to bend the metal blades at their base not up at the ends.
While in switch test mode, check pop bumper switches. Touch the pop-bumper actuator disk and see if the machine recognizes the switch. I like these to be super sensitive. To adjust, bend the blade switch below the playfield for each pop bumper. I adjusted all three of mine so they 'pop' when the actuator disk is pressed down just a tiny bit. I like the sling shot's to me a 'medium' sensitivity.

You should also hit every playfield switch while in switch mode (in above step). Make sure the machine recognizes switches properly.

This is the end of the playfield prep stage. We're now ready for re-assembly!

6 STAGE 4: Re-Assembly

NOTE: Check this... Look down the ball shooter lane. The metal on the left side of this lane... make sure the long metal flap goes on the INSIDE of the idol exit ramp. I had messed up and forgot to do this. Yeah! We're here. Don't get too excited now, this will take time. Do not rush it! We're going to clean and install all of the main playfield parts in the exact opposite order we removed them. Give time and attention to each and every part. Clean all sides of everything. I used 409 for the plastics, and 409 with a buffing of playfield cleaner on the ramps. USE CAUTION. Do not over tighten the nuts. They have a plastic liner so they won't vibrate out. Just tighten them until they touch the plastic, that's enough they won't get loose. Plastics can get expensive to replace if you crack them.

Clean up and install the dark orange piece to the left of the idol assembly. One nut at top, a machine screw in the middle and the long shaft piece on the bottom. Do not over tighten.
Clean up the yellow idol 'cup' part. (the part that holds the idol head). Clean all over including around the opto. Be sure to hit the optos. I used a q-tip to clean the hole where the shaft goes through and the slot where the exit control gate goes through. I used a little Novus to help get the dirt off.
Installing the idol 'cup'. Feed wires through hole in the playfield. Put cup in its place, feed the exit gate through the slot in the cup. Raise playfield. Get each of the 3 long threaded screws started into a hole. Take care in trying to get the threads matched up. Screw them in. The screws should turn fairly easily, if it’s tough to turn then you're starting new thread, unscrew and start the screw again. Once you're confident you're using the original threading in the plastic, tighten them down. Just before you tighten all the way, lower playfield and see how the entrance is lined up with the exit hole from the metal popper. There is a little play that allows you to line them up as you tighten the cup down. Tighten it down lined up with the metal popper. (If it won't line up, try to loosen the popper from under the playfield and see if you can move it a little and tighten it back). Be firm, but don't crank the screws, this part is probably VERY expensive; the plastic will crack if you're not careful.
Once installed, manually pull the idol exit gate solenoid, make sure there is nothing binding and that is moves up and down without any obstructions.
Clean up the idol motor assembly. Mainly clean: dirt around motor, optos (3 optos = 6 parts), the shaft, and the rotating disk. Check the tiny circuit boards on each opto, if any are loose, tighten them with a little phillips screwdriver. Install this part, three screws (phillips, I believe, if I discover later it's hex nuts, I'll change this line). If you just tighten down the part how it is, gravity will be pulling it down and the shaft will be pressing against the top of the yellow part a little. Try to tighten this motor down centered (as much as you can, there's not much play (if any)).

I made a 'note' during disassembly for you to make a note of the type of screw for the idol motor assembly. Use the proper screw now in above step (either hex or phillips head).

Clean the idol head. I used Windex because 409 may be too strong and remove the gold finish. You may even want to use soapy water. I rubbed hard on the 'legs' and it removed some of the gold down there. Actually some of the dirt adds to the idol's appearance. So clean this part at your own discretion.

I recommend using soapy water. I don't want to get in trouble for even suggesting using Windex which may cause the gold to come off.

Check the three hex nuts under the idol head part, I had to tighten them a little because they were a little loose and the metal part was a tad loose.
Install this part against the shaft. The shaft should still be facing with flat part to front of machine. The allen set screw screws into the flat part of the shaft. Pull the idol exit plastic down and tighten with an allen wrench. As the allen screw tightens it will go flush against the flat part of the shaft and the idol should line up as it tightens. The allen set screw only turns a tiny bit to 'tighten'.
Clean up the two idol cover pieces. Check the flasher lamp (I used an ohm meter) and replace if it’s bad. Place the two pieces over the idol where they belong, run the wire though the hole just above the metal idol popper part. Install the screws, I had four black screws (one of which served to screw the two pieces together). The three black machine screws had little washers under them also. Just barely tighten these screws down! The plastic is just dying to crack! Just barely tighten it or the plastic will crack, it's very thin by the edges!

UPDATE: It appears here is where you would want to clean and install the ‘Lost Plastic’ piece on the rear wood panel of the playfield. Remember, I don’t actually have this plastic, I’m just going by observation that this is when is a good time to put it on.

Clean and install the green plastic in upper right corner of playfield. Two hex wood screws in playfield edge and one nut. Just snug, this plastic isn't going anywhere.
Clean the single target for the captive ball, it's dangling in the back of the playfield. It shouldn't be that dirty.
Clean the captive ball railing tube.
Clean the captive ball opto and bracket. If the opto circuit boards are loose, tighten them with little phillips screwdriver.
Insert captive ball rail tube into back of playfield.

Don't 'Install' this part yet, just loosely put it where it should go.

Insert opto wires through hole under captive ball area. Put the opto assembly around the railing so that the white opto part is on the left side and the black part with the protective flap is on the right of the rail tube. The optos and wires surround the tube.
Clean and install the captive ball into the rail tube.
Here's the tricky part. While holding the ball in the tube and keeping the opto assembly surrounding the tube, we need to place the tube in place. The little round part at the top needs to be on the front side of the back playfield panel and the lower round parts need to go around the long threaded shafts. I've found that it's best to have the top round wire part in front of the back panel while forcing the bottom part onto the threaded parts. The bottom 'fingers' of the tube squeezed between the two rubber sleeves. Also, the back panel can angle back a tiny bit giving more room.
Screw the back standup target to the tube from behind the back panel. The targets metal flap goes below the tube's flap. The screw base touches the target and the threads grab onto the tube's flap. These two screws are unique on my machine, they are short hex machine screws with a phillips slot on top.
Put the opto assembly over the two threaded parts where it's supposed to go.
Tighten it down with two nuts. Put a long hex machine screw into the back panel of the playfield holding the rail tube in.

I had made an note during disassembly that I wasn't sure if I originally had a washer under this screw or not. Be sure to include one if you had removed one, don't if you didn't have one originally. I'm leaning more towards 'no washer'.

At this time, take the four red light hoods and 8 star posts aside and clean them up. I spent a good amount of time cleaning up those star posts, it's worth it in the long run (getting all of that gunk out of their cracks and crevasses) .
Install the 8 rubbers onto each star post. Rubber type A in the list. I put the rubber around the tip of needle-nose pliers and then force the pliers open then put the post around the stretched rubber. However you find is good, as long as you get the rubber around the post.
Install the far right light hood/2 posts assembly. Top is a wood screw post with threading on the top. Bottom is a phillips machine screw. Be firm, but be aware that to much tightening will cause the red plastic to crack.
(Installing the remaining three dividers will be out of order from how we disassembled it, but it's okay).
Install the middle two dividers/posts. They have phillips wood screws on top and phillips machine screws on bottom. Take caution with tightening these as the red plastics will easily crack, however if they are too loose you'll notice them move around when the ball hits them. Use good judgement.
Install the far left divider/posts. On top is the wood screw piece with threads and a very long hex post screwed into it. On bottom is a phillips machine screw. Remember, not too tight.
Clean and install the plastic just to right of INDY lanes. It's a two layered plastic. One nut and one hex machine screw.
Clean and install the little metal 'flap' just above the plastic previously installed. It uses two long hex machine screws through the back panel.
Clean and install the two plastics that go under right ramp, don't screw or bolt them in yet. The one on bottom is single layered and the one on top has three layers.
Clean and install the metal U or V shaped piece just over the previously installed two plastics.
Now screw down the previously three installed parts (two plastics and one metal). Three hex machine screws and two nuts. Again...don't tighten them too much.
Cleanup the right ramp assembly. Clean it all up including both sides, the green flasher plastic and the plane. Test the flasher light to make sure it works (I used an ohm meter). I used a q-tip to clean up the switch arm. Also, use a q-tip to clean around the opto areas. I also went crazy and removed both metal guards and cleaned up under them and re-installed them. I used a little Novus #1 on it too.
Installing right ramp: Feed wires through the hole where the ramp goes and place ramp in place. Install three machine screws at top into the bracket, two tiny flat-head phillips screws at bottom and two hex machine screws at the bottom sides. Remember snug, too tight will break plastics.
Clean and install the right ramp diverter. Remember to leave the washers on the shaft as you install it. Poke it through the hole in the ramp, and playfield. You may find it necessary to reach your hand around the back of the playfield and touch the plastic washer on the bracket under the playfield to get an idea of where it's hitting it. Move it around until it pokes through the washer under the playfield and is in it's 'normal' position.
Clean and re-screw the plastic that goes on the right ramp, the plastic that covers the diverter. Be careful not to strip the plastic holes.
Clean and install the left and right pop bumper caps (not the center lower one though). Clean both sides of the pop bumper cap. The screws are tiny phillips with rounded (not flat) heads.
NOTE: If you're having trouble with the ball not staying in the saucer on a direct shot to it, now is the time to repair it. Clean and install the left and right inlane/outlane dividers (process described in a later step below) and roll the ball down the inlane and take practice shots to the start mode saucer. If it doesn't 'stick' in the saucer then unscrew the saucer metal backing and bend it around and re-install. Try again. Keep bending the back plate until it keeps the ball in the saucer and can kick it out too. Mine is in a sort of 'S' shape to deflect the ball downwards when it the ball hits it.
Clean and install the plastic that goes above the 'start mode' saucer. Not too tight, this plastic is just dying to crack. Two hex machine screws.
Clean and install the plastic that goes above the previously installed plastic (under where mini-playfield goes). This is a two layered plastic. Three nuts (they are lined with plastic, so why tighten? They won't unscrew...). Screw until flush with the plastic.

I see now that the above sentence is misleading. ALL nuts installed thus far have been lined with a nylon plastic. It was late and I typed that as just another reason why not to over-tighten any of the nuts.

Cleanup the left ramp assembly. While cleaning you should remove the plastic on it (two hex machine screws) and clean it up and re-install it. Clean it all up and be sure to get the green flasher plastic. I used a moist q-tip to clean the entire switch actuator arm. Test the flashers in it, I used an ohm meter to make sure the bulbs are good. Clean the opto parts with a q-tip. If the little opto circuit boards are loose, tighten them with tiny phillips screwdriver.
Installing the left ramp: route wires through hole just to right of the left ramp entrance. Screw in the two tiny flat-head phillips screws at the ramp entrance and a hex machine screw at the top. In my bucket of screws and nuts I have a couple hex machine screws that are half as short as the rest, this is where I think this screw goes... At the top of the left ramp into the long hex shaft coming out of the left INDY divider.

I had made a note during disassembly about these two shorter hex machine screws, you may want to check your notes to see if you wrote down exactly where these two screws are 'supposed' to go.

Clean and install the plastic in the center of the playfield. The 'Raise jackpot when flashing' plastic. This is a two layer plastic. ONLY screw in the nut that hides under the second layer of plastic for now. The rest of the screws will be put in later to hold down the ramps and airplane. ...Okay, I see the hex machine screw just to the right of the left ramp entrance can go in too, but mine was broken off so I didn't notice it. I just put a hex machine screw into the post there. ...this is where I put the second hex machine screw that's half as long as the rest.
Clean and install the lower pop-bumper cap now. Two tiny phillips screws.
Clean and install the little plastic just to the right of the right outlane. (Do I really need to say 'Not too tight' anymore? I'm sure you get the point). Two hex wood screws in the wood edging.
Cleanup the right side inlane/outlane divider (separate the 'last chance' gate from the main three level plastic part). You don't really have to separate the three layers of plastics, just be sure to do a thorough cleaning of the part all over. Screw the three long screws into the playfield. First get each screw's thread started, then finish tightening them down. It is easy to cross thread these screws, so care it needed to make sure you use the original threads in the playfield.

It's really not that hard to separate the three level plastics, I'd just do it. You'll get a better cleaning of these parts. These plastics are the most commonly 'looked at' by people, so get them all clean. Separate them, clean them, then re-attach them.

just before tightening these three screws all the way down, you may want to put the playfield in the cabinet in 'play' position and practice rolling a ball down the inlane divider. Make sure the ball doesn't 'bounce' as it rolls from this part and onto the flipper bat. The transition should be as smooth as possible. So just before tightening this part to the playfield, there is a tiny big of movement that you can do the part to get it adjusted just right, then tighten it down...in a place that ball rolls down it and onto the flipper smoothly.
Clean the post that goes above the 'last chance' gate. Install the second 3/16" rubber onto this post.
Clean the 'last chance' gate. Clean it all over including the wire-form and the corners where dirt builds up.
Install the 'last chance' gate and post into the playfield. Phillips wood screw on top (with the post with rubber) and phililps machine screw on bottom that goes through the bottom of the 3-level plastic part.
Right side sling shot cover plastic: Clean it up, both sides. Now, I put fender washers under the corners of the sling shot plastics to protect them from getting broken off by the ball. Williams is doing this now with all new pins. A fender washer is a washer with a small hole in the center, but is very large in diameter (imagine a silver dollar with a small hole in center). I went to a hardware store with the actual plastic and found some fender washers that were just right, just a tiny bit larger than the diameter of the plastic's corners (I don't know or remember the actual size, sorry). This way the washer won't stand out too much, yet it will protect the plastic. Even if your plastics are already broken on a corner or two, I'd still install these washers because they 'complete' the look of the sling shot, the washer, being almost the same size of the plastic, give a continuous look to the plastic and give it a well rounded appearance even when it's actually broken and jagged.
Put a fender washer on both corners of the right side slingshot (2 washers total, here). Install the right side slingshot plastic over them. Install just the lower nut for now. As you tighten the nut, you can adjust the fender washer as there is some play in it. Don't tighten too much.
Clean the right side metal ball 'rail ramp' or 'habitrail' ramp. Yes the rails get dirty. You'll notice a difference if you clean up a dirty rail ramp.
Install the right 'habitrail' ramp. Insert the top part into the right ramp and put into place with the bottom loop part over the right slingshot post. I used a hex machine nut with small washer on the middle part (the washer keeps the force of the screw from trying to separate the railing). I used a washer and a nut on the bottom part. (the nut is a larger one, and a washer helps disperse the downward force of the nut over the railing).
Clean the three level, left side inlane/outlane divider. (just like before with the right side).
Install this left side inlane/outlane divider piece. Remember to get all three threads started before completely tightening down any one screw. Then tighten all three down.

7 THE MINI PLAYFIELD:

At first I was going to remove the red sidings and everything like I did the main playfield, but I don't see that necessary here. There's no gunk in the edges by the red plastic and it's not worth risking stripping out any of the screw holes in the red plastic, I'm sure it's expensive.
Examine the underside, make sure all screws are there. I was missing a screw on one of the brackets. Tighten down the bracket screws (the four phillips screws...one near each corner).
Clean each opto part with a moist q-tip. 2 opto switches=4 opto parts.
You know that the lower right switch gets bent and causes a 'row short' of switches, it is a good idea to insulate the posts so they won't conduct if they are touching. Cut some small pieces of electrical tape and wrap around the diode and switch lugs for the bottom right switch. (Please CUT the electrical tape, if you stretch and tear it, over time, it will try to shrink back to it's original size and unwrap). I ended up only taping the lowest switch lug, as it appears to be the only one that gets bent on my machine.
Remove the two sets of red 'light hood' and two star posts on the top side of the mini playfield. Two hoods and four posts. I find it easiest to sit in a chair and work with the playfield in between my legs.
Clean up the posts and install new/cleaned rubbers on them.
Clean up the red light hoods.
Clean the mini playfield. It's best not to spray cleaners directly on its surface, rather spray a cloth or paper towel, and rub the towel on the playfield. This is because fluids may get trapped under the red plastic sides or go down the light holes.

I used 409 first, then finished with Novus #1.

Clean the red edging.
Clean (or just 'wipe') the underside silver brackets and silver sides by the optos.
Replace any of the 12 light bulbs that show any 'blackening' signs. A blackened light bulb is about to die if it isn't already dead.
Raise the main playfield.
Temporarily plug the mini-playfield into it's proper connectors. You'll have to hold the playfield in your hand while accessing the test menus in the next step. There are three connectors, make sure the colors match up as two connectors have same pin configuration, just different colored wires. Verify that all 12 lamps work (in attract mode is good enough).
-Put machine in 'switch test' Manually activate every switch and make sure all 10 switches register properly especially the two opto switches.
Unplug the mini-playfield.
Re-install the two light hood and star posts parts. There are two long phillips wood screws per light hood.
Lower the main playfield (and leave in 'pulled out and latched' position).

INSTALLING THE MINI-PLAYFIELD:

Feed three wire connectors through the hole under where the mini-playfield is going to go.
Carefully slide the top of the mini-playfield onto the moto shaft in the rear of the playfield. You can see the marks on the shaft where the set screw is supposed to be tightened down at, push the playfield up to the same spot. Sometimes it is necessary to push on the rear playfield panel a little to make the shaft point up higher so the mini-playfield slides on easier.
Put in the two screws for the front bracket to the playfields. It should be two hex machine screws with the little star washer around it's neck. Not the super long ones (the longest ones will be for going through the back playfield panel)

I'm not totally sure if the above are supposed to be hex or phillips head, depends on what type of screw you used for the idol motor bracket. I made a note to make sure you get the idol motor bracket screws 'right', so you should have remaining, the 'right' screws for this job. I'm leaning toward 'hex' being the 'right' ones.

Tighten down the set screw (tiny allen screw). It should tighten against the flat part of the shaft which will line up the mini-playfield how it's supposed to go.
Clean up the metal mini-playfield exit guide piece. It goes just to the left of the ADV targets.
Install this part. It's the same screw used for the lower mini-playfield bracket. Two of them. After tightening it down, visually inspect to make sure the is a small gap between the bottom edge of the mini-playfield and this part. We don't want the mini-playfield to hit this piece when it tilts left. If there is no gap, the mini-playfield needs to go onto the motor shaft some more, or this part can be bent downwards just a tad. (bending it to the front of the playfield to get a gap between it and the mini-playfield, although I think it's best to avoid bending it. Try moving the mini-playfield onto the motor shaft first).
Clean and install the green, two level plastic that goes over the left of ADV targets. Two nuts and two hex wood screws in the edge of the playfield. Don't over-tighten! (My plastic is cracked at the top part from somebody over-tightening it or a ball hitting it).
Clean and install the metal 'gutter' to the left of the mini-playfield. My machines uses two machine screws (one fat, one thin) I've seen a machine that used one machine screw at top and a wood or sheet metal screw on the bottom. I thought it was two hex machine screws, but unfortunately I don't have any left in my bucket of screws, so I'm using a phillips with washer on the top, and a hex machine screw on bottom.

Note: I should have enough 'updates' that you should have the proper screws for this by now. I had ended up going to a hardware store and getting some more hex head machine screws.

Clean up the metal 'bridge' piece. It's a good idea to remove the two plastics from this piece during cleaning. Clean them and re-install when the part is clean.
Feed the cable of the bridge part through the little hole in the back panel of the playfield. Set the bridge in place. Make sure the 'release post' comes through the hole in the bridge and that the bridge entrance is below the right ramp lip. Tighten this part to the backbox with the three long hex machine screws with star washers on their necks. NOTE: My IJ only has the top two machine screws installed, somebody decided that the bottom, 3rd screw is too much of a pain and left it out. Just before getting the bridge tightened down, manually reach behind and under he playfield and pull the 'release post' down. Make sure it pops up freely. You can shift the bridge left and right until you feel it is centered about the post. If, in the future during game play the post 'sticks' down, the loosen and shift this bridge over some.
Clean and install the think green plastic. Do not put nuts on yet.
Clean curved metal guard piece and place over green plastic just installed. NOW install the nuts. The top one needs to be fairly tight, otherwise the ball will stick on it (the ball will be rolling right over the top of it).
Install two fender washers on left sling shot posts. One for each corner. See previous discussion above about fender washers for the right slingshot.
Clean and install left slingshot cover. Only put on the bottom nut for now.
Clean and install the short gold colored ramp piece for the mini# playfield exit. To keep the ball from hitting the top nut that it rolls over while going down the habitrail, I put two washers on the slingshot plastic post, then the ramp. This elevates the ramp a tiny bit higher. I then put a washer on top and a nut. This allowed the ball to clear the nut.
Clean and install the left ramp habitrail. Feed the top part into the left ramp first. Then set it in place. I used a hex machine screw with a washer in the middle and a washer and a nut on the lower end (on the left slingshot). The washers help disperse the force and keep the nut or screw from expanding the metal loop.
NOTE: I seem to only have phillips machine screws left, no more hex style. I'm not sure where the small phillips are 'supposed' to go, but I'm going to use it for the plane...
Clean and install the while airplane. It's a pain to clean, but possible. Don't forget to clean it's propeller and metal support bracket. Don't accidentally install it with the rear wire support going 'through' the habitrail ramp, it should be along it's side. We don't want the ball hanging on it.
Clean and install the three parts that make up the front of the playfield that the apron screws down onto. All hex wood screws.
Clean and install the two metal pieces to the left and right of the shooter coil. Hex wood screws.
Remove the two instruction cards and their plastic coverings from the apron. Clean the apron. I urge you to use only warm water. I've seen many times where cleaners (409 specifically) caused the artwork on the apron to smear or fade (while cleaning other pins). Don't forget to shine up the metal railing screwed to it also. Clean the instruction card plastic covers (I just wipe them a little). Install the instruction and score cards with their plastic covers. I have just make it a rule not to touch the instruction card front. Not even to wipe off dust. It's too easy to get a dirty fingerprint on it which will be visible forever.
Place the apron on the game and screw it down. Four phillips machine screws with star washers.
Raise the playfield.
Install the right ramp diverter shaft and spring. There's a large spring that goes around the shaft (which enters the coil), and a small spring that holds the two parts together as a unit. First insert the shaft into the coil (remember to have the spring around the shaft). Now turn it and slide it onto the bottom of the ramp diverter. Put the big part closest to the playfield, the metal 'flap' on it is facing out. Put it onto the shaft with a little of the shaft sticking through. The allen set screw should be facing to the left of the machine. Tighten the allen set screw against the flat side of the diverter shaft. As it tightens it will go flush against the flat part and should be automatically adjusted.
Make sure game is off.
Plug the wires from the idol motor into the little circuit board under the right inlane. It's a two wire connector. Wrap the wires through the plastic clips so it's neat and out of the way.
Now, plug in all 21 connectors that we originally unplugged. By now, we should be more familiar with what these plugs are. Be sure the wire colors match, sometimes two identical connectors are next together, just the wire colors are different. Wrap these around nearby clips so they are neat and out of the way. Sometimes the colors are the same, but the configuration of them is different. (especially on the 3 pin connectors).
Lower the playfield. Turn on game.
Put machine in switch test mode. Verify the 10 switches on the mini playfield work.
Verify the ramp entry and 'ramp made' switches work.
Verify the switch by the mini-playfield entrance works. (switch on the 'bridge')
Verify the opto switch at the idol entrance works.
Verify the idol exit ramp switch works.
Put machine in flasher test and verify the ramp flashers and idol area flasher works. Remember the high-voltage enable switch behind the coin door. Be sure to check each flasher individually, even I accidentally plugged two flashers in backwards (actually I reversed the airplane flashers LEDs and the right idol area flasher).
Put machine in 'mini playfield test' and verify it moves left and right properly and reports no errors.
Put machine in idol test and verify it reports no errors.
At this point I did a quick spray of Novus #1 and wiped the main playfield area, just a quick final shining. Don't do this with Wildcat or Novus #2, we don't want any white stuff getting in the nice clean star posts now!

This is the end of Stage 4, re-assembly

8 STAGE 5: CLEANING THE CABINET

Raise the playfield. Clean up the inside of the cabinet. Wipe the speaker and big transformer. Clean up to your pleasing. I even got out the vacuum and sucked up the dust.
Try to clean up the metal part in front, the piece with 'Inspected by' and 'Install 6 balls' stickers on it.
Put the playfield back into the cabinet.
Clean and install the 6 balls.
Clean both sides of the glass and install it. (I just put the glass on, clean one side, then take glass out and turn it around and reinstall it, then clean again (the other side)).
Install backglass and clean entire front of backbox. The backglass, speaker panel and wood edging (be careful of splinters).
Clean up all sides of the game. Including the top of the backbox and the front. Around the gun, the coin door, the back of the game. Clean the legs. Check for gum stuck to the bottom and remove it.

That's it! Have a beer or your favourite non-alcoholic beverage and enjoy your Indiana Jones!

By: Garrett Lee, mrglee@yahoo.com

Date: March 31, 1999 (Updated September 1, 1999)