Leon Borre Zaccaria 1B1366 Driver Tester
Zaccaria driver board 1B1366 test setup..
Zaccaria driver board 1B1366 has a lot of components.. it has 80 lamp drivers and 24 solenoid drivers. Nevertheless it is a simple board and easy to repair, because all functions are 100x repeated and it's possible to compare the signals bweetn similar structures. I choose to make a simple tool so we can test and repair this board on the work bench. The tool doesn't have any electronics so everyone should be able to build it. What will this tool do ? Well, with three switches and two pushbuttons we simulate the electronic signals which come from the cpu board. To check the outputs we put leds which will light when they're activated. So the leds replace the regular light bulbs and solenoids of the playfield. A similar tool can be found on my test page for Bally lamp and solenoid driver boards.
The complete schematics of the driver board you can find here ....... 
What do we need ?
A small box with two banana plugs, two push buttons, three switches, a led and a 470 ohm resistor, and a wire of around 20 to 30cm which ends in a plug which fits the 4-pin alim. connector of the driver board CN16, and a plug which fits into connector CN15 of the driverboard with a piece of flat cable about 20 to 30cm attached to it. Finally a female bus for a banana plug.
Schematics.
How to connect everything you see in this schematic ..
CN 16 brings 5 volt to the driver board. 4, 16 and 17 of CN 15 are not connected.
Everything on its place but not connected yet..
The check box.
The finished check board. Left the red and black banana plugs to which a 5 volt power supply gets connected. Right the connector which goes to CN 16 of the driver board. The flat cable goes to CN15. The 3 switches are marked to their "on" position. At the bottom the red plug to which the common of the control led strip will be connected with next to it a push button.
How it works.
Using 3 switches we can simulate address lines A0, A1 and A2. The other validation signals are brought by pushing the green button. Further on this page you'll find a list of what leds have to light when we operate the switches. To the red female connector is for the "common" lead of the control leds strip, the blue pushbutton lets the led go out again. Because the leds are driven by SCR's (triacs) they will continue to pass electricity until you interrupt the power supply. But don't worry, using this test device is a piece of cake!.
Testing the outputs using leds.
This is the same as with the Bally setup, connect the led with resistor to the output we want to check. To check everything without having to switch a led all the time, create a board with 20 leds next to each other. We do need two types of connectors because the pins for the solenoids (CN 17) have a different size then these of the lamps (CN 18,19,20,21,22). But still we can make one board to check both.
The resistors are on the bottom side of the board. The boards is a universal test board with island of 3 holes . The white connector goes to CN17 for the output of the solenoids. Each wire is connected to a red led, which are on pair tracks (2, 4, 6, ..) There are 10 leds but 24 output pins so you'll have to move the connector during the test.
Together with the resistors, which are on the bottom side of the board, there is also a connector strip for the 20 connections of a lamp driver, each pin has one led. So the red leds which are also used for the solenoid outputs are covering the pair pins and the green and yellow leds the impair pins.
This is the schematic of the check led strip..
Connecting our tester
This is easy. Connect CN15 and the power supply CN16 to the driverboard . And the red and black banana plug to a power supply (red = 5 volts). The strip with check leds goes to the connector you want to check, which can be CN 17,18,19,20,21 or 22. Put the switches in each possible combination and push both buttons..
The check led strip is here connected to CN22, by the small connector strip , the big white connector for the solenoid outputs isn't used now..
These are the positions of the switches and which leds they will light:
....................................................CN 17... ...CN 18 .......CN19 ....CN20 ...... CN21 .....CN22
A1 A2 A3 = off = ............led ...2/6/19 ........6/7/12/15.......9 ........6/9/20 ..2/4/5/9/11 ..14/16
A1 = on A2 A3 = off ..... led .1/13/22 ............1/4 ..........1/4/15 .....8/20 ...... 10/15 ........ 2/8
A2 = on A1 A3 = off ..... led .3/12/15 ..........5/19 ...........3/13 ........14 ..........6/12/16 ...9/12/15
A1 A2 = on A3 = off ..... led .7/16/18 ........ 9/14/17 .....8/12/17 ....1/19 ..........7/18 ..... 1/11/17
A3 = on A1 A2 = off ..... led .14/17/20 ........ 2 ............. 6/7/19 ...4/10/12/17 ...13 ..........3/10.
A1 A3 = on A2 = off ..... led .5/8/10 .........3/8/20 ......... 11/14/16 ..2/13 .......... 3/8 ........ 5/13
A2 A3 = on A1 = off ..... led .9/11/23 ........ 10/13 ...... 2/5/10/20 .... 3/15 ....... 19 ....... 6/7/18/19
A1 A2 A3 = on .............. led . 4/24 ......... 11/16/18 ........ 18 ..... 5/7/11/18 ...1/14/17 ..... 4/20
Here is a list which is easy to print ...
If a led does not light, you can use the schematics to follow the signal. Operating the pushbuttons will force the signal to go high and low, where it doesn't move you have an error.. It is also possible that too many leds will light, or a certain led will light whit what ever position of the switches . Eighter case means a shorted or open driver SCR. Now you can test all 104 outputs on your work bench, success!