File:SS Bally GI lighting tap 3.jpg
Original file (1,200 × 1,600 pixels, file size: 425 KB, MIME type: image/jpeg)
Summary
Picture showing inside of cabinet, right flipper, before socket mount.
I solder the wires to the anode and cathode of the socket, and screw the socket into the side of the cabinet with half-inch screws. I typically use the hex head screws as it's easier to get a grip on it. Don't use long screws! You could damage your cabinet.
It's also important to note that I recommend flexible head #44 LEDs (as well as #44 socket of course) because invariably the light won't be exactly where you need it to be, or there are obstructions - playfield, shooter rod, etc. that you'll need to get creative around.
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| Date/Time | Thumbnail | Dimensions | User | Comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| current | 00:43, 31 December 2020 | | 1,200 × 1,600 (425 KB) | Pb123 (talk | contribs) | Picture showing inside of cabinet, right flipper, before socket mount. I solder the wires to the anode and cathode of the socket, and screw the socket into the side of the cabinet with half-inch screws. I typically use the hex head screws as it's easier to get a grip on it. Don't use long screws! You could damage your cabinet. It's also important to note that I recommend flexible head #44 LEDs (as well as #44 socket of course) because invariably the light won't be exactly where you need... |
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