Difference between revisions of "Bally/Stern"

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{{WIP}}
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Click to go back to the [[Bally/Stern_Electronics_Repair_Guides | Bally/Stern solid state repair guides index]].
  
−
Click to go back to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern_Electronics_Repair_Guides Bally/Stern solid state repair guides index].
+
==Introduction==
 +
[[File:Bally-17_boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally -17 Board Set]]
 +
[[File:-35 boardset centaur.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Bally -35 Board Set]]<br>
 +
Bally first started to experiment with solid state in the mid 70s with a couple conversions of EM games, Flicker and Bow & Arrow.  Flicker's control system was designed by Jeff Frederiksen of Dave Nutting Associates, a Bally think-tank.  This board utilized the Intel 4004 microprocessor.  One prototype was built and was re-discovered in 1998.  The Bow & Arrow system of which 17 were eventually built more closely resembles what actually ended up in the production games starting with Freedom.  This boardset was designed by a Bally engineer named Doug MacDonald.  There are at least two revisions of the prototype run's software in existence.<br>
  
−
==Introduction==
+
For an interesting read, the patent Bally filed for their first "computerized pinball machine" can be viewed [http://www.google.com/patents/US4198051 here].
−
Bally first started to experiment with solid state in the mid 70s with a couple conversions of EM games, Flicker and Bow & Arrow. Flicker's control system was designed by Jeff Frederiksen of Dave Nutting Associates, a Bally think-tank. This board utilized the Intel 4004 microprocessor. One prototype was built and was re-discovered in 1998.  The Bow & Arrow system of which 17 were eventually built more closely resembles what actually ended up in the production games starting with Freedom.  This boardset was designed by a Bally engineer named Doug MacDonald.  There are at least two revisions of the prototype run's software in existence.<br><br>
+
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:SternMPU-100.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Stern M-100 Board Set]]
 +
[[File:Stern m-200 boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Stern M-200 Board Set]]<br>
 +
The early circuit boards were fabricated by a company called Universal Research Laboratories (URL).  URL was purchased by Gary Stern as part of his strategy in acquiring the assets of the defunct Chicago Coin; it is this connection that enabled Stern to use essentially the same hardware for their solid state games as Bally.  The software is remarkably similar as well, although Bally was more apt to use a "set" of operating system roms (the U6 chip) for several games, whereas Stern opted to custom-compile their roms for each game, or at most, pairs of games.<br clear=all>
  
−
The early circuit boards were fabricated by a company called Universal Research Laboratories (URL). URL was purchased by Sam Stern as part of his strategy in acquiring the assets of the defunct Chicago Coin; it is this connection that enabled Stern to use essentially the same hardware for their solid state games as Bally.  The software is remarkably similar as well, although Bally was more apt to use a "set" of operating system roms (the U6 chip) for several games, whereas Stern opted to custom-compile their roms for each game, or at most, pairs of games.<br><br>
+
[[File:GB8.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally Goldball special driver/voltage board]]<br>
 +
Some later -35 Bally games used a combination of the solenoid driver board and the lamp driver board.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
 
The core system consists of:
 
The core system consists of:
Line 13: Line 22:
 
* A solenoid driver/voltage regulator board to regulate/filter the DC voltages and provide switching for solenoids
 
* A solenoid driver/voltage regulator board to regulate/filter the DC voltages and provide switching for solenoids
 
* A lamp driver board to switch up to 60 lamps on/off
 
* A lamp driver board to switch up to 60 lamps on/off
−
<br>
 
 
<br>
 
<br>
  
Line 20: Line 28:
 
* Auxiliary lamp driver boards, to provide control for more than 60 lamps
 
* Auxiliary lamp driver boards, to provide control for more than 60 lamps
 
* Solenoid expander boards to allow more than 15 controllable momentary solenoids to be connected
 
* Solenoid expander boards to allow more than 15 controllable momentary solenoids to be connected
−
<br>
 
−
<br>
 
−
 
−
 
−
[[File:-35 boardset centaur.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally -35 Board Set]]
 
−
[[File:Stern m-200 boardset.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Stern M-200 Board Set]]
 
−
[[File:GB8.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally Goldball special driver/voltage board]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
Line 33: Line 34:
 
===Bally===
 
===Bally===
 
{|class="wikitable"
 
{|class="wikitable"
−
! scope="col" | Game Title  
+
! scope="col" style="width:15%;" | Game Title  
−
! scope="col" | MPU  
+
! scope="col" style="width:10%;" | MPU  
−
! scope="col" | Power Supply
+
! scope="col" style="width:10%;" | Power Supply
−
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
+
! scope="col" style="width:15%;" | Lamp driver
−
! scope="col" | Sound
+
! scope="col" style="width:10%;" | Sound
−
! scope="col" | Add'l boards
+
! scope="col" style="width:30%;" | Additional Boards
 +
! scope="col" style="width:10%;" | Transformer
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Freedom || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes ||  
+
|[[Freedom]] || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes || || E-122-125 <sup>[[#as2877freedom|see note]]</sup>
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Night Rider || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes ||  
+
|[[Night Rider]] || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes || || E-122-125
 
|-  
 
|-  
−
|Black Jack || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes ||  
+
|[[Black Jack]] || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Evel Knievel || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes ||  
+
|[[Evel Knievel]] || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Eight Ball || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes ||  
+
|[[Eight Ball]] || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Power Play || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes ||  
+
|[[Power Play]] || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-14 || Chimes || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Mata Hari || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || Chimes ||  
+
|[[Mata Hari]] || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || Chimes || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Strikes & Spares || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || Chimes ||  
+
|[[Strikes & Spares]] || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || Chimes || || E-122-125
 
|-  
 
|-  
−
|Black Jack || AS-2518-17 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || Chimes ||
+
|[[Bally Lost World|Lost World]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32|| || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Lost World || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32||
+
|[[The Six Million Dollar Man]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32|| || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|The Six Million Dollar Man || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32||
+
|[[Bally Playboy|Playboy]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32|| || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Playboy || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32||
+
|[[Voltan]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32|| A few games were outfitted with an AS-2518-51 sound board for testing || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Voltan || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32||
+
|[[Supersonic]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32|| || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Supersonic || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-32||  
+
|[[Bally Star Trek|Star Trek]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50|| || E-122-125
−
|-
 
−
|Star Trek || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50||
 
 
|-
 
|-
 
! scope="col" | Game Title  
 
! scope="col" | Game Title  
Line 75: Line 75:
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Sound
 
! scope="col" | Sound
−
! scope="col" | Add'l boards
+
! scope="col" | Additional Boards
 +
! scope="col" | Transformer
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Paragon || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50||  
+
|[[Bally Kiss|Kiss]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-49 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50|| Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 || E-122-131
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Harlem Globetrotters || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50||  
+
|[[Paragon]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50|| || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Dolly Parton || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50||  
+
|[[Harlem Globetrotters]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50|| || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Kiss || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-49 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50|| Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43
+
|[[Dolly Parton]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-50|| || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Future Spa || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-49 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51|| Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43
+
|[[Future Spa]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-49 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51|| Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 || E-122-131
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Space Invaders || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-49 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51|| Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52
+
|[[Space Invaders]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-49 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51|| Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52 || E-122-131
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Nitro Groundshaker || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Nitro Groundshaker]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Silverball Mania || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Silverball Mania]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Rolling Stones || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Bally Rolling Stones|Rolling Stones]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Mystic || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Mystic]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Hotdoggin || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Hotdoggin]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Viking || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Viking]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Skateball || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Skateball]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Frontier || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Frontier]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-18 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || || E-122-125
 
|-
 
|-
−
|[[Xenon]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-56 || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Vocalizer module AS-2518-58
+
|[[Xenon]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-56 (Sounds Plus) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Vocalizer module AS-2518-57 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
 
! scope="col" | Game Title  
 
! scope="col" | Game Title  
Line 112: Line 113:
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Sound
 
! scope="col" | Sound
−
! scope="col" | Add'l boards
+
! scope="col" | Additional Boards
−
|-
+
! scope="col" | Transformer
−
|Flash Gordon || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61 || Early games used the AS-2518-56 sound board
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Eight Ball Deluxe || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52  
+
|[[Flash Gordon]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61 (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, early games used the  Sounds Plus (AS-2518-56) board and Vocalizer module (AS-2518-57) instead of the S&T board || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Fireball II || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A ||  
+
|[[Eight Ball Deluxe]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Embryon || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A ||  
+
|[[Embryon]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Fathom || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A ||  
+
|[[Fireball II]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Auxiliary Driver - SCR Lamp Flasher AS-2518-67, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68  || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Medusa || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A ||  
+
|[[Centaur]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) || Say It Again AS-2518-81 (Reverb), Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - SCR Lamp Flasher AS-2518-67, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Centaur || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B || Reverb AS-2518-81, Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43
+
|[[Elektra]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Elektra || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B ||
+
|[[Fathom]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Vector || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B ||  
+
|[[Medusa]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Spectrum || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B || Uses a second AS-2518-23 for lamps (2 total in game)
+
|[[Vector]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68, Auxiliary Driver - Triac Lamp Flasher AS-2518-82 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Speakeasy || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Rapid Fire]]  || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) || Ball Delivery Sensor & Motor Board AS-2518-102 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Rapid Fire  || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B ||  
+
|[[Mr. & Mrs. Pacman]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 || E-122-161
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Granny and the Gators || AS-2518-133 || AS-2518-132 || AS-2518-107 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) || || Vidiot AS-2518-121
+
|[[Speakeasy]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Mr. & Mrs. Pacman || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B ||  
+
|[[Spectrum]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) || Uses a second AS-2518-23 for lamps (2 total in game), Auxiliary Driver - SCR Lamp Flasher AS-2518-67, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|[[Baby Pac-Man]] || AS-2518-133 || AS-2518-132 || AS-2518-107 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) || || Vidiot AS-2518-121
+
|[[Baby Pac-Man]] || AS-2518-133 || AS-2518-132 || AS-2518-107 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) || n/a || Vidiot AS-2518-121 || AS-3071-12
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61 || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52  
+
|[[Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61 (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 ||
 
|-
 
|-
 
! scope="col" | Game Title  
 
! scope="col" | Game Title  
Line 151: Line 151:
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Sound
 
! scope="col" | Sound
−
! scope="col" | Add'l boards
+
! scope="col" | Additional Boards
 +
! scope="col" | Transformer
 +
|-
 +
|[[BMX]] || AS-2518-35|| AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 || Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 || E-122-161
 
|-
 
|-
−
|BMX || AS-2518-35|| AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Grand Slam]] || AS-2518-133 || AS-2518-151 || AS-2518-147 (combo lamp driver/solenoid driver/regulator) || AS-2518-51 || || ?
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Centaur II || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B || Reverb AS-2518-81, Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43  
+
|[[Centaur II]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) || Say It Again AS-2518-81 (Reverb), Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Goldball || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-147 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) || AS-2518-51 ||  
+
|[[Goldball]] || AS-2518-133 || AS-2518-151 || AS-2518-147 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) || AS-2518-51 || Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 || E-122-170
 
|-
 
|-
−
|X's & O's || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || M-051-00114-B045 (A080-91603-B000) ||
+
|[[Eight Ball Deluxe Classic]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61 (Squawk & Talk) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52 || ?
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Kings of Steel || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || M-051-00114-B045 (A080-91603-B000) ||
+
|[[Granny and the Gators]] || AS-2518-133 || AS-2518-132 || AS-2518-107 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) || M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) || Vidiot Deluxe A062-91600-D000 || AS-3071-12
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Black Pyramid || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || M-051-00114-B045 ||
+
|[[X's & O's]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Eight Ball Deluxe Classic || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || AS-2518-61 || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52 
+
|[[Kings of Steel]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Fireball Classic || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || M-051-00114-B045 ||
+
|[[Black Pyramid]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 || E-122-142
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Cybernaut || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 ||  M-051-00114-B045 ||
+
|[[Spy Hunter]] || AS-2518-35 || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 || M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 || E-122-142
 +
|-
 +
|[[Fireball Classic]] || AS-2518-35 [[#fbmpu|†]] || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 ||  M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) || Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 || AA40-0037-0000
 +
|-
 +
|[[Cybernaut]] || AS-2518-35 [[#cympu|‡]] || AS-2518-54 || AS-2518-23 ||  M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) || Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 || ?
 
|}
 
|}
 +
<div id="as2877freedom"></div>*Note: Part of the AS-2877 POWER TRANSFORMER MODULE which has the AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board Assembly mounted directly onto the transformer using a bracket. Later games had the AS-2877-1 POWER TRANSFORMER MODULE which had a large metal plate onto which both the transformer and AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board Assembly were mounted. See [http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4500&picno=40867 Inside Backbox] photo on the Internet Pinball Database page of Freedom for an example of AS-2877. See also [http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1979/index.html#/4/ Page 4 of the Bally 1979 Parts Catalog].
 +
<br />
 +
<div id="fbmpu"></div>† Note: Fireball Classic was sometimes fitted with a 6802 MPU board (an upgrade from the -35 board)
 +
<br />
 +
<div id="cympu"></div>‡ Note: Cybernaut was sometimes fitted with a 6802 MPU board (an upgrade from the -35 board), or a 6803 MPU board.
  
 
===Stern===
 
===Stern===
Line 179: Line 191:
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Sound
 
! scope="col" | Sound
−
! scope="col" | Add'l boards
+
! scope="col" | Transformer
 +
! scope="col" | Notes
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Pinball || M-100 || || || Chimes ||
+
|[[Pinball]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || Chimes || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Stingray || M-100 || || || Chimes ||
+
|[[Stingray]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || Chimes || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Stars || M-100 || || || Chimes ||
+
|[[Stars]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || Chimes || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Memory Lane || M-100 || || || Chimes ||
+
|[[Memory Lane]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || Chimes || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Lectronamo || M-100 || || || SB-100 ||
+
|[[Lectronamo]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-100 || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Wild Fyre || M-100 || || || SB-100 ||
+
|[[Wild Fyre]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-100 || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Nugent || M-100 || || || SB-100 ||
+
|[[Nugent]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-100 || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Dracula || M-100 || || || SB-100 ||
+
|[[Dracula]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-100 || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Trident || M-100 || || || SB-100 ||
+
|[[Trident]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-100 || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Hot Hand || M-100 || || || SB-100 ||
+
|[[Hot Hand]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-100 || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Magic || M-100 || || || SB-100 ||
+
|[[Magic]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-100 || 16B-3 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Cosmic Princess || M-100 || || || SB-100 ||
+
|[[Cosmic Princess]]|| M-100 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-100 || 16B-3 ||  
−
|-
 
−
|Meteor || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
 
−
|-
 
−
|Galaxy || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
 
−
|-
 
−
|Ali || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
 
 
|-
 
|-
 
! scope="col" | Game Title  
 
! scope="col" | Game Title  
Line 216: Line 223:
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Lamp driver
 
! scope="col" | Sound
 
! scope="col" | Sound
−
! scope="col" | Add'l boards
+
! scope="col" | Transformer
 +
! scope="col" | Notes
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Big Game || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Meteor]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Seawitch || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Galaxy]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Uses relay to turn on / off general illumination
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Cheetah || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Ali]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Uses relay to turn on / off general illumination
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Quicksilver || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Big Game]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  First Stern 7 digit game, widebody
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Stargazer || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Seawitch]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Nine Ball || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Cheetah]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  First stern game using plastic pop bumper rod and ring, widebody
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Iron Maiden || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Quicksilver ]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Viper || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Stargazer]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Dragonfist || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Nine Ball]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Cue || M-200 || || || SB-300 ||
+
|[[Iron Maiden]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Widebody. Uses IM-100 flash lamp board.
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Flight 2000 || M-200 || || || SB-300 || Voice module VS-100
+
|[[Viper]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Widebody
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Free Fall || M-200 || || || SB-300 || Voice module VS-100
+
|[[Dragonfist]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Lightning || M-200 || || || SB-300 || Voice module VS-100
+
|[[Cue]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Split Second || M-200 || || || SB-300 || Voice module VS-100
+
|[[Flight 2000]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Uses voice module VSU-100, widebody
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Catacomb || M-200 || || || SB-300 || Voice module VS-100
+
|[[Freefall]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Uses voice module VSU-100, widebody
 
|-
 
|-
−
|Orbitor One || M-200 || || || SB-300 || Voice module VS-100
+
|[[Lightning]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Uses voice module VSU-100, uses interface board for bonus display in playfield
 +
|-
 +
|[[Split Second]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Uses voice module VSU-100, widebody
 +
|-
 +
|[[Catacomb]]|| M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Uses voice module VSU-100
 +
|-
 +
|[[Orbitor 1]] || M-200 || TA-100 || LDU-100 || SB-300 || 16B-6 ||  Uses voice module VSU-100, widebody
 
|}
 
|}
  
 
==Technical Info==
 
==Technical Info==
−
===The Wiring Color Code===
+
===The Bally / Stern Board Set===
−
The Bally color coding system is a carry over from the EM era.  Either one color or a two color code is used for every wire. The first number is the wire's insulation color, while the second number is the trace color, if one is used.  The traces on the wire can either be dashes or stripes.  Either type of marking has the same coding designation. An example of a wire with the code 15, would be a red wire with a white trace.  A black wire with no trace would be code 80.  If a wire color is used more than once, a "-" and the "nth" time the color is used is added as a suffix to the color code.  An example of this is a red wire with white traces used a second time.  The code for the wire would be 15-1.<br>
+
The Bally/Stern boardsets always consist of a rectifier board, a solenoid driver/power regulator board, a lamp driver board, and an mpu board.  These boards utilize the Motorola 6800 series of microprocessors, 2 peripheral interface adapter chips (6821 PIAs), a switch matrix, multiplexed gas plasma displays, and direct driving of lamps and solenoids (no matrix).  Lamps are switched on near the zero crossing 120 times a second to prevent premature lamp filament burnout.<br>
 +
 
 +
Additional boards present in games may include various flavors of sound boards, as well as additional lamp driver boards (both main and auxiliary), solenoid expander boards, specialized boards such as an echo (say-it-again) board, and speech boards.<br>
 +
 
 +
The software utilized in these games is very similar to one another, consisting of an "operating system" and a "game rom"; Bally utilized a masked rom for their OS over several games, enabling many roms to be ordered at one time for lower manufacturing cost.  Stern custom compiled their operating system for each game, although some games have the same exact rom codes, differing switches in each of those affected games perform different functions although the rulesets are the same/very similar to one another.<br>
 +
 
 +
Starting with the Stern Mpu-200 series of games (Meteor, 1979), Stern utilized a state machine architecture, where the core operating system handles the various housekeeping functions (displays, switch reading, memory management, lamps/solenoid driving, etc.) and the state layer handles things like game rules and timing of lamp and sound effects.  This enabled the programmers to concentrate on defining their rulesets and lamp effects instead of tweaking timing within the assembly code itself.  The state machine is multi-threaded and is able to execute up to 16 threads at one time.<br>
  
−
Conversely, Stern never adopted a color coding system.  Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a white wire with a blue trace is referred to as W-BLU, red with yellow is R-Y, black is just B, etc.).<br>
+
Bally games continued to use a real-time setup, where all functions are coded in 6800 assembly language, necessitating lots of additions to the operating system over the years to enable more sophisticated light and sound effects/choreography.  Contemporaries of Bally (Gottlieb, Stern, and Williams) all switched to the state machine architecture at some point in their solid state eras.  The coding speed advantage of the state machine enabled more rapid development of software, a distinct advantage when production runs started to become shorter and shorter.<br clear=all>
−
 
−
Below is the Bally color chart.<br>
 
  
−
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"
+
===Recommended Documentation===
−
!
+
====Manuals & Schematics====
−
!1
+
Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids.  The owner's manual is a handy resource to have for dip switch settings as well as audit information.
−
!2
 
−
!3
 
−
!4
 
−
!5
 
−
!6
 
−
!7
 
−
!8
 
−
!9
 
−
!0
 
−
!Jumper
 
−
|-
 
−
| Color
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000"> &nbsp;Red&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF"> &nbsp;Blue&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#000000; background:#FFFF00"> &nbsp;Yellow&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000"> &nbsp;Green&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF"> &nbsp;White&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#A52A2A"> &nbsp;Brown&nbsp; </span> </b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500"> &nbsp;Orange&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#000000"> &nbsp;Black&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#808080"> &nbsp;Gray&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF"> &nbsp;No Trace&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|| <center><b><span style="color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF"> &nbsp;Jumper&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
−
|}
 
  
−
===Connector Designations===
+
The early -17 Bally games as well as the early stern mpu-100 games have both an owner's manual and a separate schematic package available. If buying documentation on ebay or the like, be sure to check with the seller to see what is included. Most documentation is also available via ipdb.org although the quality of some of the scans make it difficult to extract the needed information. Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics as well as game descriptions and settings.
−
All Bally / Stern machines have a common naming convention for all of the connectors in the game. A specific connection uses two parts - a prefix and a suffix. The prefix is the board number, and the suffix is the connection on the board. When referencing a specific connector pin within a housing, a dash follows the connection number. For example, the connector pin for the coin door self test switch signal on the CPU board is A4J3-1. A single connection, in this case the key on a display, for the player 2 display would be 2A1-14.  The same connection on a player 3 display would be 3A1-14.<br>
 
  
−
The following boards are assigned the same numbers throughout Bally / Stern games.
+
=====Documentation Errors/Addendums=====
−
*Lamp Driver Board - A5
+
======Schematic Errors with Stern MPU-200 MPU======
−
*MPU Board - A4
+
<center>
−
*Solenoid Driver Board - A3
+
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="MPU-200 Schematic Errors">
−
*Transformer Module / Rectifier Board - A2
+
File:MPU-200 Upper Schem.jpg|<center><b>Modified schematics showing the TP3 and R16 errors</b></center>
−
*Displays - A1
+
File:MPU-200 Lower Schem.jpg|<center><b>Modified schematics showing the actual path of U17 pin 10</b></center>
−
<br clear=all>
+
File:Stern MPU-200 U17 Jumper.jpg|<center><b>Factory jumper installed on a Stern MPU-200 board.  This ties U17 pin 10 to U15 pin 3 and pin 25 of both U10 and U11.</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
There are two TP1s noted on the schematics.  The upper TP1 (noted as 21.5vdc pulsating) should be TP3.
  
−
====Molex Crimper Styles====
+
There are two R18 resistors noted in the "zero crossing detector" cited at the top left of the page.  The lower resistor should be R16 and the upper resistor should be R18.
  
−
Hand held crimpers for Molex style pins come in several styles, and as always, you get what you pay for. Cheaper types sacrifice ease of use, and quality of crimp and durability of the tool. A professional Molex crimper can cost more than $300, and is not necessary to do a excellent job of replacing the pins on a pinball machine. The cheapest type is the Waldom crimper for around $15, and is not recommended. The tool requires that you crimp twice, first for the bare wire, then for the insulation, increasing the chances of a bad crimp. Better is the $25 Sargent 1028-CT tool, which also must be crimped twice, but has better quality and is the only choice for .084 pins. Best are the Sargent type tools (3136-CT shown below) at about $95. These crimpers may have a holder for the pin, and also crimp BOTH the wire and insulation crimp at the same time, reducing the chances of a bad crimp. These tools are specific for the type of connector, whether that is a .156, .062, .100 pin. The .100 crimper does NOT have a pin holder. Replacement parts are also available for this style. [[file:Molex_Connector_Crimpers.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Pictured from left to right, Sargent .100 crimper w/o holder, Waldom universal crimper, Sargent 1028-CT, and Sargent 3136-CT for.156 pins shown with holder]]
+
U18 pin 6 '''SHOULD NOT''' connect to U17 pin 10, nor should U19 pin 13 as drawn in the schematics.
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
===Proprietary Numbers on Chips===
+
U17 pin 10 should go to U15 pin 3, U10 and U11 pin 25, U7 pins 10 and 13, and to E37 and E38, which are tied together without a jumper.
−
Some Bally IC chips are marked with proprietary Bally part numbers, and no other markings are present. Below is a list of some of the most common chips found on Bally boards, and the more commonly referred to chip.
+
 
−
*620-28 - 6800 CPU chip
+
The signal going to U17 pin 10 is VUA 02', not VUA as the schematics state.
−
*620-29 - 6820 PIA chip
+
 
−
*620-30 - 6810 RAM chip
+
It has been noted in online forums that some MPU-200s have the trace cut between U18 pin 6 and U17 pin 10, and a jumper installed from U17 pin 10 to a via located to the right of U17.  This ties U17 pin 10 to U10 pin 25, as it should be.  A picture of the factory jumper installed is above, however, the cut trace could not be found in this instance.
−
*620-37 - 14514 / 4514 CMOS 4-Bit Latch / 4-to-16 Line Decoder chip
 
−
*620-38 - 14534 / 4543 CMOS BCD-to-Seven-Segment Latch / Decoder / Driver chip
 
−
*620-39 - 74L154 4 to 16 decoder chip (can sub with 74HCT154)
 
−
*620-125 - 6808 CPU chip
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
===Switch Matrix===
+
======Stern Transformer Schematics======
−
[[File:Bally Stern switch matrix.png|thumb|left|300px|Bally / Stern 5 x 8 Switch Matrix]]<br><br><br><br><br><br>
+
* On the 16B-6 transformer schematics, the transformer voltage for lugs 2/4/6 is omitted. It should be noted as 49VAC, like in the schematics for the earlier 16B-3 transformer.
 +
[[File:Stern-16b-6_schematic-error.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Stern 16B-6 transformer schematics omission]]<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
======Game Manual Errors/Updates======
 +
* [https://www.ipdb.org/files/249/Stern_1980_Big_Game_Corrections_to_Game_Manual_March_1980.pdf Stern Big Game: Manual Corrections]
 +
 
 +
====Introduction to Pinball====
 +
Bally produced a series of "Introduction to Flipper Games" guides that included the basics of pinball machines.
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
!Guide
 +
!Cover
 +
!Source
 +
!Notes
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|Introduction to Bally Flipper Games, Revised June 1981
 +
|[[file:Introduction-to-bally-flipper-games_revised-june-1981-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
 +
|
 +
|
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|Introduction to Bally Midway Flipper Games, Revised July 1983
 +
|[[file:Introduction-to-bally-flipper-games_revised-july-1983-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
 +
|[[media:Introduction-to-bally-flipper-games_revised-july-1983.pdf|PDF]]
 +
|
  
−
The Bally / Stern switch matrix is a 5 x 8 matrix consisting of a maximum of 40 switches. There are a total of 5 switch strobes, (starting with 0, ending with 4), and 8 switch returns, (starting with 0, ending with 7). The numbering convention for the switches is to start at 01, increase by 1 in the same strobe, and continue consecutively to 40.  To isolate the switches, a 1N4148 diode or a 1N4004 diode is placed across the switch itself.  Not every switch in the matrix is used on every Bally / Stern game.<br>
+
|}
  
−
Although rare, Bally did add a 6th strobe (strobe 5) for some games, such as Medusa and Spectrum.
+
====Theory of Operation & Repair Guides====
−
<br clear=all>
+
Less important but still handy are the Bally Theory of Operation manual and the Repair Manuals.  
  
−
Connections for the switch matrix originate from the two connectors located on the right side of the CPU board. Connector A4J3 is used for all the switches on the coin door, the ball roll tilt, and the pendulum tilt. While connector A4J2 is for all of the switches on the playfield.<br>
+
The repair manuals are written with the use of test boards called AID1 and AID2 in mind (essentially a specialized logic probe), but can still have some helpful troubleshooting steps outlined. The latest revision of a repair manual normally supersedes all other previous repair manual revisions.
  
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
{| class="wikitable"
−
!
+
|-
−
!Strobe 0<br>
+
!Guide
−
(A4J2-1 / A4J3-2)<br>
+
!Cover
−
!Strobe 1<br>
+
!Source
−
(A4J2-2 / A4J3-3)<br>
+
!Notes
−
!Strobe 2<br>
+
 
−
(A4J2-3)<br>
+
|-
−
!Strobe 3<br>
+
|Bally Electronic Pinball Games Theory of Operation FO 601-2
−
(A4J2-4)<br>
+
|[[file:Bally-theory-fo601-2-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
−
!Strobe 4<br>
+
|[[media:Bally-theory-of-operation-FO-601-2.pdf|PDF]]
−
(A4J2-5)
+
|Supersedes Theory of Operation guides FO 601 and 601-1.
−
!Strobe 5 (When Used)<br>
+
 
−
(A4J4-5)
+
|-
−
|-  
+
|Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures FO 560-3
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 0 (A4J2-8 / A4J3-9)<br>
+
|[[file:bally-repair-fo560-3-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 01<br>
+
|[[media:Bally-repair-procedures-FO-560-3.pdf|PDF]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 09<br>
+
|Supersedes repair guides FO 511, FO 512, FO 513, [[media:Bally-repair-procedures-FO-560.pdf|FO 560]], [[media:Bally-Repair-Procedures-FO-560-1.pdf|FO 560-1]], and 560-2.
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 17<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 25<br>
+
|-
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 33<br>
+
|Theory of Operation - Stern's Microprocessor Controlled Solid State Games (1979)
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 41<br>
+
|[[file:Stern-theory-of-operation-book-1979-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
−
|-
+
|[[media:Theory_Of_Operation_Stern's_Microprocessor_Controlled_Solid_State_Games_(Stern_MPU-100).pdf|PDF]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 1 (A4J2-9 / A4J3-10)<br>
+
|Applicable to Stern MPU-100 games from 1977-1979: Pinball, Stingray, Stars, Memory Lane, Lectronamo, Wild Fyre, Nugent, Dracula, Trident, Hot Hand, Magic.
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 02<br>
+
|}
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 10<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 18<br>
+
=====Individual Guides=====
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 26<br>
+
* [[media:Bally-vidiot-deluxe-theory-of-operation.pdf‎|Vidiot Deluxe Theory of Operation]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 34<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 42<br>
+
====Parts Catalogs====
−
|-  
+
Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts & parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Online copies of Bally parts catalogs can be found on [http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK Planetary Pinball].
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 2 (A4J2-10 / A4J3-11)<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 03<br>
+
{| class="wikitable"
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 11<br>
+
|-
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 19<br>
+
!Manufacturer
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 27<br>
+
!Catalog
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 35<br>
+
!Cover
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 43<br>
+
!Source
−
|-  
+
!Games
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 3 (A4J2-11 / A4J3-12)
+
!Notes
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 04<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 12<br>
+
|-
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 20<br>
+
|Bally
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 28<br>
+
|1979 Parts Catalog
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 36<br>
+
|[[file:bally-1979-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 44<br>
+
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/gseb/ Viewer] [[media:Bally-Parts-Catalog-1979-fixed.pdf|PDF]]
−
|-
+
|Freedom, Night Rider, Black Jack, Mata Hari, Evil Knievel, Eight Ball, Lost World, Power Play, Strikes & Spares, Six Million Dollar Man
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 4 (A4J2-12 / A4J3-13)<br>
+
|
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 05<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 13<br>
+
|-
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 21<br>
+
|Bally
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 29<br>
+
|1979-1 Parts Catalog
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 37<br>
+
|[[file:bally-1979-1-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 45<br>
+
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/wjsc/ Viewer] [[media:Bally-Parts-Catalog-1979-1.pdf|PDF]]
−
|-
+
|Playboy, Supersonic, Star Trek, Kiss, Paragon
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 5 (A4J2-13 / A4J3-14)<br>
+
|
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 06<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 14<br>
+
|-
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 22<br>
+
|Bally
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 30<br>
+
|1980 Parts Catalog
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 38<br>
+
|[[file:bally-1980-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 46<br>
+
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/afmm/ Viewer] [[media:Bally-Parts-Catalog-1980.pdf|PDF]]
−
|-
+
|Harlem Globetrotters, Dolly Parton, Future Spa, Nitro Groundshaker, Silverball Mania, Rolling Stones, Space Invaders
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 6 (A4J2-14 / A4J3-15)<br>
+
|
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 07<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 15<br>
+
|-
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 23<br>
+
|Bally
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 31<br>
+
|1980-1 Parts Catalog
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 39<br>
+
|[[file:bally-1980-1-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 47<br>
+
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/tzut/ Viewer] [[media:Bally-Parts-Catalog-1980-1.pdf|PDF]]
−
|-
+
|Mystic, Hotdoggin', Viking, Skateball, Frontier, Xenon, Flash Gordon
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 7 (A4J2-15 / A4J3-16)<br>
+
|
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 08<br>
+
 
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 16<br>
+
|-
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 24<br>
+
|Bally
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 32<br>
+
|1981 Parts Catalog
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 40<br>
+
|[[file:bally-1981-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
−
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 48<br>
+
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/wurt/ Viewer] [[media:Bally-Parts-Catalog-1981.pdf|PDF]]
−
|}
+
|Eight Ball Deluxe, Fireball II, Embryon, Fathom, Medusa, Centaur
 +
|Note: Even though the parts catalog states otherwise, Fathom does use the sound board EE jumpers
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|Bally
 +
|1982 Parts Catalog
 +
|[[file:bally-1982-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
 +
|[https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/fimq/ Viewer] [[media:Bally-Parts-Catalog-1982.pdf|PDF]]
 +
|Elektra, Vector, Rapid Fire, Mr. & Mrs. Pac Man, Spectrum, Speakeasy, BMX
 +
|Note: Even though the parts catalog states otherwise, Fathom does use the sound board EE jumpers
 +
 
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|Stern
 +
|General Parts Book
 +
|[[file:Stern-general-parts-book-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|Stern
 +
|Parts Catalog (1979)
 +
|[[file:stern-70s-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
 +
|[[media:Stern-parts-catalog-1979.pdf|PDF]]
 +
|Pinball, Stingray, Stars, Memory Lane, Lectronamo, Wild Fyre, Nugent, Dracula, Trident, Hot Hand
 +
|Service bulletins, diagnostic information, playfield parts, circuit board layouts & parts lists. Does not contain any playfield layout diagrams.
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|Stern
 +
|1981 Parts Catalog
 +
|[[file:Stern-1981-parts-catalog-cover.jpg|thumb|left|140px]]
 +
|[[Media:Stern-parts-catalog-1981.pdf|PDF]]
 +
|Pinball, Stingray, Stars, Memory Lane, Lectronamo, Wild Fyre, Nugent, Dracula, Trident, Hot Hand, Meteor, Galaxy, Magic, Cheetah, Quicksilver, Ali, Big Game, Seawitch, Star Gazer, Flight 2000, Nine Ball, Freefall, Lightning
 +
|Includes playfield parts, but no board information or schematics. Includes information, parts lists, and diagrams for Stern video games.
 +
 
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
Note: Baby Pacman and Granny & The Gators do not specifically appear in the pinball parts catalogs, but many of the same parts are used on the playfield. The game specific manuals and the Vidiot and Vidiot Deluxe theory of operation manuals for each game will need to be referred in most cases for information about each game.
 +
 
 +
====Service Bulletins====
 +
Service bulletins detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.
 +
 
 +
'''Service Bulletin Books'''
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
!Manufacturer
 +
!Version
 +
!Cover
 +
!Source
 +
!Games
 +
!Notes
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|Bally
 +
|Service Bulletins, August 1978
 +
|[[file:Bally-service-bulletin-book-1978-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]
 +
|[[media:Bally-service-bulletin-book-1978.pdf|PDF]]
 +
|Black Jack, Eight Ball, Evel Knievel, KISS, Lost World, Mata Hari, Night Rider, Paragon, Playboy, Power Play, Six Million Dollar Man, Skateball, Star Trek, Strikes and Spares, Supersonic, Voltan
 +
|
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|Bally
 +
|Service Bulletin Book, 1987
 +
|[[file:Bally-service-bulletin-book-1987-cover.png|thumb|left|140px]]
 +
|[[media:Bally-service-bulletin-book-1987.pdf|PDF]]
 +
|Kings of Steel, Spy Hunter, Fireball Classic, Cybernaut
 +
|Also contains some early Bally 6803 games
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
'''Individual Service Bulletins'''
 +
 
 +
Note: Stern Electronics service bulletins 1 through 16 can be found in the [[media:Stern-parts-catalog-1979.pdf|1979 Stern Parts Catalog]].
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable sortable"
 +
|-
 +
!Manufacturer
 +
!Service Bulletin
 +
!Date
 +
!Game(s)
 +
!Summary
 +
!Notes
 +
|-
 +
|Stern
 +
|[[media:Stern_service-bulletin_15.pdf|15]]
 +
|1979
 +
|All Games (General)
 +
|Solid State Digit Display Repair Procedures
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|Stern
 +
|[[media:Stern_service-bulletin-23.pdf|23]]
 +
|1980-12-02
 +
|Flight 2000
 +
|Flight 2000 breaking flipper return plastic
 +
|Fix: Insert metal bar under return plastic
 +
|-
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
===The Wiring Color Code===
 +
The Bally color coding system is a carry over from the EM era.  Either one color or a two color code is used for every wire.  The first number is the wire's insulation color, while the second number is the trace color, if one is used.  The traces on the wire can either be dashes or stripes.  Either type of marking has the same coding designation.  An example of a wire with the code 15, would be a red wire with a white trace.  A black wire with no trace would be code 80. If a wire color is used more than once, a "-" and the "nth" time the color is used is added as a suffix to the color code.  An example of this is a red wire with white traces used a second time.  The code for the wire would be 15-1.<br>
  
−
It is worth mentioning that the self test switch, which is located on the inside of the coin door and used to enter tests, audits, and bookkeeping, is not part of the switch matrix.  A single signal is sent to the self test switch from the U10 PIA on the CPU board via connection A4J3-1, and returned to ground via a connection A3J2-7 on the solenoid driver board.<br>
+
Conversely, Stern never adopted a color coding system.  Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a white wire with a blue trace is referred to as W-BLU, red with yellow is R-Y, black is just B, etc.).<br>
 +
   
 +
Below is the Bally color chart.<br>
  
−
Also, the switch commonly referred to as "switch 33" on a Bally or Stern CPU board, and used to reset audits and bookkeeping, is not part of the switch matrix either.  This switch receives a signal from the 6800 CPU chip, and when closed, sends the signal to ground.  Starting with the first MPU-200 Stern game, Meteor, Stern added a second switch to the inside of the coin door to serve the purpose of remotely resetting audits and bookkeeping.  The signal for this secondary switch is tied to the input line of switch 33, and leaves the CPU board via connection A4J3-5.  Its return line is sent to ground via a daisy-chained lead to the self test switch.
+
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"
−
<br clear=all>
+
!
−
 
+
!1
−
===Attract Mode Test Points===
+
!2
−
 
+
!3
−
====MPU Test Point Values====
+
!4
−
{|class="wikitable"
+
!5
−
! scope="col" | Model
+
!6
−
! scope="col" | TP1
+
!7
−
! scope="col" | TP2
+
!8
−
! scope="col" | TP3
+
!9
−
! scope="col" | TP4
+
!0
−
! scope="col" | TP5
+
!Jumper
 
|-
 
|-
−
|AS-2518-17 || +5 +/-.25VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || +21.5 +/- 2.7VDC || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC
+
| Color
−
|-
+
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#FF0000"> &nbsp;Red&nbsp; </span></b></center>
−
|AS-2518-35 || +5 +/-.25VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || +21.5 +/- 2.7VDC || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC
+
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#0000FF"> &nbsp;Blue&nbsp; </span></b></center>
−
|-
+
|| <center><b><span style="color:#000000; background:#FFFF00"> &nbsp;Yellow&nbsp; </span></b></center>
−
|AS-2518-133 || +5 +/-.25VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC ||  || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC
+
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#008000"> &nbsp;Green&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 +
|| <center><b><span style="color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF"> &nbsp;White&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 +
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#A52A2A"> &nbsp;Brown&nbsp; </span> </b></center>
 +
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#FFA500"> &nbsp;Orange&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 +
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#000000"> &nbsp;Black&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 +
|| <center><b><span style="color:#FFFFFF; background:#808080"> &nbsp;Gray&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 +
|| <center><b><span style="color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF"> &nbsp;No Trace&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 +
|| <center><b><span style="color:#000000; background:#FFFFFF"> &nbsp;Jumper&nbsp; </span></b></center>
 
|}
 
|}
−
Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3
 
  
−
====Rectifier Board Test Point Values====
+
===Connector Designations===
−
{|class="wikitable"
+
All Bally / Stern machines have a common naming convention for all of the connectors in the game. A specific connection uses two parts - a prefix and a suffix. The prefix is the board number, and the suffix is the connection on the board. When referencing a specific connector pin within a housing, a dash follows the connection number. For example, the connector pin for the coin door self test switch signal on the CPU board is A4J3-1. A single connection, in this case the key on a display, for the player 2 display would be 2A1-14. The same connection on a player 3 display would be 3A1-14.<br>
−
! scope="col" | Model
+
 
−
! scope="col" | TP1
+
The following boards are assigned the same numbers throughout Bally / Stern games.
−
! scope="col" | TP2
+
*Lamp Driver Board - A5
−
! scope="col" | TP3
+
*MPU Board - A4
−
! scope="col" | TP4
+
*Solenoid Driver Board - A3
−
! scope="col" | TP5
+
*Transformer Module / Rectifier Board - A2
−
|-
+
*Displays - A1
−
|AS-2518-18 || +5.4 +/-.8VDC || +230 +/-27.4VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || 7.3 +/-.9VAC || +43 +/-5.4VDC
+
<br clear=all>
−
|-
+
 
−
|AS-2518-49 || +5.4 +/-.8VDC || +230 +/-27.4VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || 7.3 +/-.9VAC || +43 +/-5.4VDC
+
===Switch Matrix===
−
|-
+
[[File:Bally Stern switch matrix.png|thumb|left|200px|Bally / Stern 5 x 8 Switch Matrix]]<br><br><br><br><br>
−
|AS-2518-54 ||  ||  ||  ||  ||
+
 
−
|-
+
The Bally / Stern switch matrix is a 5 x 8 matrix consisting of a maximum of 40 switches. There are a total of 5 switch strobes (columns), (starting with 0, ending with 4), and 8 switch returns (rows), (starting with 0, ending with 7). The numbering convention for the switches is to start at 01, increase by 1 in the same strobe, and continue consecutively to 40. To isolate the switches, a 1N4004 diode, or in some cases a 1N4148 diode, is placed across the switch itself. Not every switch in the matrix is used on every Bally / Stern game.<br>
−
|AS-2518-132 ||  ||  ||  ||  ||
+
 
−
|}
+
Although rare, Bally did add a 6th strobe (strobe 5) for some games, such as Centaur, Fathom, Medusa and Spectrum.
−
Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3
+
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Connections for the switch matrix originate from the two connectors located on the right side of the CPU board. Connector A4J3 is used for all the switches on the coin door, the ball roll tilt, and the pendulum tilt. While connector A4J2 is for all of the switches on the playfield.<br>
  
−
====Lamp Driver Test Point Values====
+
{| class="wikitable"
−
{|class="wikitable"
+
!
−
! scope="col" | Model
+
!Strobe 0<br>
−
! scope="col" | Board Type
+
(A4J2-1 / A4J3-2)<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP1
+
!Strobe 1<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP2
+
(A4J2-2 / A4J3-3)<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP3
+
!Strobe 2<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP4
+
(A4J2-3)<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP5
+
!Strobe 3<br>
−
|-
+
(A4J2-4)<br>
−
|AS-2518-14 || Lamp Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || || ||
+
!Strobe 4<br>
−
|-
+
(A4J2-5)
−
|AS-2518-23 || Lamp Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || || ||
+
!Strobe 5 (When Used)<br>
−
|-
+
(A4J4-5)
−
|AS-2518-43 || Aux Lamp Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || || ||
+
|-  
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 0 (A4J2-8 / A4J3-9)<br>
−
|AS-2518-52 || Aux Lamp Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || || ||
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 01<br>
−
|}
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 09<br>
−
Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 17<br>
−
 
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 25<br>
−
====Solenoid Driver/Regulator Test Point Values====
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 33<br>
−
{|class="wikitable"
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 41<br>
−
! scope="col" | Model
+
|-  
−
! scope="col" | Board Type
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 1 (A4J2-9 / A4J3-10)<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP1
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 02<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP2
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 10<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP3
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 18<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP4
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 26<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP5
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 34<br>
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 42<br>
−
|AS-2518-16 || Solenoid Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || +5 +/-.25VDC || +230 +/-27.4VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC
+
|-  
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 2 (A4J2-10 / A4J3-11)<br>
−
|AS-2518-22 || Solenoid Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || +5 +/-.25VDC || +230 +/-27.4VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 03<br>
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 11<br>
−
|AS-2518-107 || Combo Lamp/Solenoid Driver ||  ||  ||  ||  ||
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 19<br>
−
|}
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 27<br>
−
Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 35<br>
−
 
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 43<br>
−
====Sound Test Point Values====
+
|-  
−
{|class="wikitable"
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 3 (A4J2-11 / A4J3-12)
−
! scope="col" | Model
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 04<br>
−
! scope="col" | Board Type
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 12<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP1
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 20<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP2
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 28<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP3
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 36<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP4
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 44<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP5
+
|-
−
! scope="col" | TP6
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 4 (A4J2-12 / A4J3-13)<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP7
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 05<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP8
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 13<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP9
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 21<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP10
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 29<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP11
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 37<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP12
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 45<br>
−
! scope="col" | TP13
+
|-  
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 5 (A4J2-13 / A4J3-14)<br>
−
|AS-2518-32 || Sound || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || +12.5 +/-1.3VDC || +43 +/-5.4VDC || SOL RET || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 06<br>
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 14<br>
−
|AS-2518-50 || Sound || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || +12.5 +/-1.3VDC || +43 +/-5.4VDC || SOL RET || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 22<br>
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 30<br>
−
|AS-2518-51 || Sound || +11.9 +/- 2.5VDC || +5 +/-.25VDC ||  || 0VDC (No Sound), 2.5+/-.2VDC (Sound) || +2.5 +/-.2VDC || 0VAC (No Sound), .35 +/-.1VAC (Sound) || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 38<br>
−
|-
+
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 46<br>
−
|AS-2518-56 || Sound || +11.9 +/- 2.5VDC || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || 0VDC (No Sound), 2.5VDC (Sound) || +2.5 +/-.2VDC || 0VAC (No Sound), .35 +/-.1VAC (Sound) || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
+
|-  
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 6 (A4J2-14 / A4J3-15)<br>
−
|AS-2518-57 || Vocalizer || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC || Analog Output || Digital Input || Speech Clock || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 07<br>
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 15<br>
−
|AS-2518-61 || Sound || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC || +11.5VDC || -5VDC || Speech Volume Control Voltage || Sound Volume Control Voltage || AY3-8912 Output || E || TMS5200 Output || VMA || TMS5200 Clock || Reset ||
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 23<br>
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 31<br>
−
|AS-2518-81 || Reverb || GND ||  ||  || Audio In ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  || +11.9VDC || +12VDC || +4VDC to +8VDC
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 39<br>
−
|-
+
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 47<br>
−
|M-051-00114-B045 || Sound ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||
+
|-  
 +
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: left; font-weight: bold;" | Return 7 (A4J2-15 / A4J3-16)<br>
 +
| style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 08<br>
 +
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 16<br>
 +
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 24<br>
 +
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 32<br>
 +
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 40<br>
 +
|  style="vertical-align: top; text-align: center;" | 48<br>
 
|}
 
|}
−
Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3
 
  
−
====Display Module Test Point Values====
+
It is worth mentioning that the self test switch, which is located on the inside of the coin door and used to enter tests, audits, and bookkeeping, is not part of the switch matrix.  A single signal is sent to the self test switch from the U10 PIA on the CPU board via connection A4J3-1, and returned to ground via a connection A3J2-7 on the solenoid driver board.<br>
−
{|class="wikitable"
+
 
−
! scope="col" | Model
+
Also, the switch commonly referred to as "switch 33" on a Bally or Stern CPU board, and used to reset audits and bookkeeping, is not part of the switch matrix either.  This switch receives a signal from the 6800 CPU chip, and when closed, sends the signal to ground.  Starting with the first MPU-200 Stern game, Meteor, Stern added a second switch to the inside of the coin door to serve the purpose of remotely resetting audits and bookkeeping.  The signal for this secondary switch is tied to the input line of switch 33, and leaves the CPU board via connection A4J3-5.  Its return line is sent to ground via a daisy-chained lead to the self test switch.
−
! scope="col" | Board Type
+
<br clear=all>
−
! scope="col" | TP1
+
 
−
! scope="col" | TP2
+
===Bally and Stern MPU Boards===
−
! scope="col" | TP3
+
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px>
 +
File:Bally -17 MPU.JPG|Bally AS-2518-17 MPU Board
 +
File:Bally -35 MPU.JPG|Bally AS-2518-35 MPU Board
 +
File:Bally-6802-mpu-board.jpg|Bally 6802 MPU Board (A080-91638-D000). Note alkaline corrosion abatement and addition of "SuperCap" to retain CMOS memory
 +
</gallery>
 +
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px>
 +
File:Mpu100-01.jpg|Stern M-100 MPU Board
 +
File:Mpu200-01.jpg|Stern M-200 MPU Board
 +
</gallery>
 +
All Bally and Stern MPU boards are built around the Motorola 6800 series CPU chip and 6820 or 6821 peripheral interface adapters (PIAs).
 +
 
 +
In most cases, if a Bally MPU board has taken a bad hit from alkali damage, the bottom right corner of the board typically takes a hit.  Unfortunately, the bottom right corner of the board is also the location where the board number is stenciled onto the masking.  If the masking has delaminated, it will take the stenciled board number information with it.  At this point, it would be difficult to determine what board it actually is.
 +
 
 +
[[File:Bally -17 Quick ID.JPG|left|300px|thumb|32 pins at J5 of a -17 MPU]]
 +
[[File:Bally -35 Quick ID.JPG|right|300px|thumb|33 pins at J5 of a -35 MPU]]
 +
 
 +
However, there is a quick and easy way to determine whether the board is either a -17 or -35.  Simply look at the J5 header pin connection located at the top center of the board.  If there are only 32 pins (including one empty key) at the connection, the board is a -17.  If there are 33 pins (including one empty key) at this connection, the board is a -35.
 +
 
 +
The Bally 6802 MPU board was only found in two games (Fireball Classic and Cybernaut) and in small quantities before the introduction of [[Bally_6803|6803 games]]. Some specifics of the 6802 board [http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_6802.html can be found here].
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Bally -35/Stern MPU-200 Parts Bill of Materials and Part Placement Chart====
 +
[[File:CorrosionArea.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Bally -35/Stern MPU-200 Parts Bill of Materials|link=https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/5/54/BallySternMPUPartsBOMandLocator.pdf]]<br>
 +
Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a .pdf file detailing the part location and complete bill of materials for Bally -35 and Stern MPU-200 MPU boards. The original parts "skeleton layout" and BOM was done by Ed at [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com Great Plains Electronics].
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Transformers===
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
! scope="col" | Manufacturer
 +
! scope="col" | Part Number
 +
! scope="col" | Power Transformer Module
 +
! scope="col" | Rectifier Board Assembly
 +
! scope="col" | Winding 1
 +
! scope="col" | Winding 2
 +
! scope="col" | Winding 3
 +
! scope="col" | Winding 4
 +
! scope="col" | Winding 5
 +
|-
 +
|Bally || E-122-125 || AS-2877, AS2877-1 || AS-2518-18 || 49VAC || 173VAC || 7.3VAC || 7.8VAC || 12VAC
 +
|-
 +
|Bally || E-122-131 || AS-2877-3 || AS-2518-49 || 49VAC || 173VAC || 7.3VAC || 9.2VAC || 12VAC
 
|-
 
|-
−
|AS-2518-15 || Display Module || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || GND
+
|Bally || E-122-141 / AS-3071-2 || AS-2877-6 || AS-2518-54 || 49VAC || 170VAC || 6.5VAC || 8.2VAC || 14.2VAC
 
|-
 
|-
−
|AS-2518-21 || Display Module || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || GND
+
|Bally || E-122-142 / AS-3071-2 || AS-2877-6 || AS-2518-54 || 49VAC || 170VAC || 6.5VAC || 9.4VAC || 14.2VAC
 
|-
 
|-
−
|AS-2518-58 || Display Module || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || GND
+
|Bally || E-122-170 / AS-3071-15 ‡ || AS-2877-13 ‡ || AS-2518-151 ‡ || 49VAC || 170VAC || 8.5VAC || 20V CT † || 14.2VAC
 
|-
 
|-
−
|AS-2518-121 || Vidiot || ||  ||
+
|Bally || AS-3071-12 § || AS-2877-11 § || AS-2518-132 § || || || ||  ||  
 
|}
 
|}
−
Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3
 
  
−
===Fuse Values===
 
 
{|class="wikitable"
 
{|class="wikitable"
−
! scope="col" | Model
+
! scope="col" | Manufacturer
−
! scope="col" | Board Type
+
! scope="col" | Part Number
−
! scope="col" | F1
+
! scope="col" | Rectifier Board Assembly
−
! scope="col" | F2
+
! scope="col" | Lugs 2/4/6
−
! scope="col" | F3
+
! scope="col" | Lugs 8/10
−
! scope="col" | F4
+
! scope="col" | Lugs 13/14
−
! scope="col" | F5
+
! scope="col" | Lugs 15/16
−
! scope="col" | F6
+
! scope="col" | Lugs 17/18
 
|-
 
|-
−
|AS-2518-18 || Power Supply || 10A, 32V 3AG || 3/4A, 250V 3AG SB || 4A, 32V 3AG || 5A, 32V 3AG || 20A, 32V 3AG || 3A, 32V 3AG SB
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|AS-2518-22 || Solenoid Driver || 1/4A, 250V 8AG || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
+
|Stern|| 16B-3 || TA-100 || 49VAC || 173VAC || 7.8VAC || 12VAC || 7.3VAC
 
|-
 
|-
−
|AS-2518-49 || Power Supply || 20A, 32V 3AG || 3/4A, 250V 3AG SB || 4A, 32V 3AG || 5A, 32V 3AG || 20A, 32V 3AG || N/A
+
|Stern|| 16B-6 || TA-100 || 49VAC || 173VAC || 7.8VAC || 12VAC || 7.3VAC
−
|-
+
 
−
|AS-2518-54 || Power Supply || 20A, 32V 3AG || 3/4A, 250V 3AG SB || 4A, 32V 3AG || 5A, 32V 3AG || 20A, 32V 3AG || N/A
 
−
|-
 
−
|AS-2518-107 || Combo Lamp/Solenoid Driver ||  || || || || ||  
 
−
|-
 
−
|AS-2518-132 || Power Supply ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||
 
 
|}
 
|}
−
Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3
+
† Center Tapped<br>
 +
‡ Goldball and Grand Slam only.<br>
 +
§ Baby Pacman and Granny & The Gators only
  
−
Unless noted otherwise, all fuses are fast blow.
+
===Rectifier Boards===
 +
The rectifier board is the first part of the power train in any Bally or Stern machine.  In addition to rectifying four discrete AC voltages to DC, the rectifier board consists of the bulk of fuses for the game, including the main fuse.  After all associated voltages are fused, the power is dispersed to the backbox, playfield, and lower cabinet.
  
−
Various Bally and Stern games have under playfield fuses as well. A common symptom of a blown playfield fuse is flippers operational, but no other on playfield solenoids work. This is because the flippers draw too much current for the under playfield fuse (which is usually 1 or 2 amp) so they are connected before the fuse is in the circuit. The main solenoid fuse on the rectifier board is used to protect against a shorted flipper coil instead.
+
There are two revisions of the AS-2518-54 rectifier board. The first revision has 5 fuses. Revision "B" has an additional fuse. On revision B, two fuses are used for the general illumination instead of just one fuse. One fuse is for the GI on the playfield, and the second fuse for the GI in the backbox. The AS-2518-132 rectifier board (used only in [[Baby Pac-Man]] and Granny & The Gators) is based on the AS-2518-54 revision B board.
  
−
Sometimes a large under playfield mechanism will be fused separately.  Gottlieb did this often, but it is rarer in Bally/Stern games.  If you have a solenoid not working it doesn't hurt to check and see if it has a fuse, or if someone decided to add one in the past. The under playfield solenoid fuse is a very small value as for the most part Bally/Stern games are only able to fire one solenoid at a time.  This is a limitation of the hardware design, as the 4-to-16 decoder chip on the solenoid driver board can only decode one of 15 signals to fire an associated solenoid.
+
The AS-2518-132 rectifier board is only used in Bally's two hybrid games--[[Baby Pac-Man]] and Granny & The Gators. The AS-2518-132 board backwards compatible with the AS-2518-54 board. However, in order to use a standard AS-2518-54 board in a hybrid game, the rectifier diodes at CR5, CR6, CR7, and CR8 need to be upgraded from the stock 3 Amp diodes to 6 Amp diodes.
  
−
Some games do utilize the remaining 4 continuous drivers for a momentary coil. (One example is the ball walker area in Flight 2000 - the 2 kickers are activated by the continuous solenoids, for a momentary period). You should identify which under playfield solenoids if any are used as such in your game and add a fuse to the activation (single, thinner wire) side of the coil to prevent a software glitch from locking on that coil.  Simply splice it inline with the single wire and use a 1 amp fast blow fuse to protect the driver circuit and coil in the case of a lockup. It would only be necessary to add the fuse for large loaded coils - relay or high resistance coils like on a flag gate or pop-up post coil relay do not place such a great load on the driving transistor that it is in any danger of burning out.
+
<gallery widths=250px>
 +
File:Bally AS-2518-18 Rec Brd.JPG|Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board
 +
File:Bally_-49_rectifier_board.jpg|Bally AS-2518-49 rectifier board
 +
File:Bally AS-2518-54 Front.JPG|Bally AS-2518-54 Rectifier Board
 +
File:Bally AS-2518-54 revision B.JPG|Bally AS-2518-54 Revision B Rectifier Board. Two fuses are used for the general illumination instead of one (the GI for the playfield and the GI for the backbox)
 +
File:Bally_AS-2518-132.jpg|Bally AS-2518-132 Rectifier Board. Only used in Baby Pacman and Granny & The Gators.
 +
File:Bally AS-2518-151 Rec Board.JPG|Bally AS-2518-151 Rectifier Board
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Weak playfield solenoids can be caused by a weak connection on the under playfield fuse holder. Remove the fuse and check for proper tension on the fuse clips for any tarnishing. It is best to just replace suspect fuse holders with new vs. attempting to clean the originals.
+
<gallery widths=250px>
 +
File:Stern TA-100 Rec Brd.JPG|Early Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board
 +
File:Stern TA-100 Newer.JPG|Later Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board
 +
File:Stern TA-100 Rec Brd Blank.JPG|Later Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board (blank)
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
===Jumper/ROM Info===
 
  
−
Jumpers are small zero ohm resistors or pieces of bare or insulated wire used to connect various points of an MPU board together to allow the board to utilize varying sizes and types of ROM/EPROM chips.  Many of the logic gate chips on the MPU boards are used to steer address signals to the proper pins on the various U1-U6 chip sockets.  If you have changed the jumpers and you cannot make the board boot with known good working roms, it is possible you have an addressing problem caused by one of the logic gate support chips.  Always double check your jumper work by following the trace or schematic to the <b>next</b> point after the jumper; i.e. do not just measure continuity across the jumper.  Go to the next point where the jumper connects and test between those points.
 
  
−
Be careful soldering to the pads, as they can be fragile.  It is best to remove all the solder from the pad and insert the jumper fully into the via rather than just solder to the top. Soldering the jumper top and bottom will help with any cracked vias.  Solder the jumpers to the top of the board where the jumper silk screening is printed rather than the back so that you can easily spot what type of rom chips the board is jumpered for.
+
====How To Hook Up a Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board====
−
 
+
Often folks buy a new or used rectifier board and then when they get it, they realize that they have to hook it back up to the old wiring harness. If this is you, and you forgot to take notes or pictures before you removed your old board, then here you go. The photo below shows an original [http://stevekulpa.net/pinrepair/as-2518-18a.jpg AS-2518-18] rectifier board connected to a factory wiring harness. As far as I know, the wire colors are the same for ALL AS-2518-18 applications.<br>
−
All software for Bally/Stern boards can be reformatted into a 2x2732 configuration. It helps to understand how the original software is formatted to understand how to combine and pad the software to get different formats. Any board jumpered to take 2x2732 has its address ranges of U2 as $1000-$17FF (lower half) $5000-$57FF (upper half).  The U6 ranges are $1800-$1FFF (lower half) and $5800-$5FFF (upper half).
 
  
−
If the game was originally 4x2716, U1=$1000-$17FF, U2=$5000-$57FF, U5=$1800-$1FFF, and U6=$5800-$5FFF.  Thus, to combine this setup to work on a 2x2732 configuration, you would combine U1+U2 into U2.732 and U5+U6 into U6.732 using either your burner software, or the DOS command '''copy /b u1.716 + u2.716 u2.732'''.
+
[[File:As-2518-18-wiring.jpg|350px|left|thumb|Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board (Solder Side)]]
  
−
If you need to use 2716 eproms but don't have any, you can use a 2732 eprom in its place by duplicating the data.  Either use the DOS command '''copy /b rom.716 + rom.716 rom.732''' or load the data twice into your burner; depending on its software, you might change the buffer address by $800 (so the duplicate data loads after the first segment) or it might ask if you want to append the data to the existing buffer.
+
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"
−
 
+
!Board Connection
−
==== '''Bally AS-2518-35''' or '''-133''' Jumper Info====
+
!Wire Color / Gauge
−
The following is a list or various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Bally -35 or -133 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts. The letter '''"E"''' has been eliminated on every jumper number after the first to save space. '''9332''' ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory and can be replaced with 2532 EPROMS without any modification to the original board, provided that board has not been altered.
+
!Transformer Lug
−
 
+
!Circuit
−
{| class="wikitable"
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
! U1 ROM
+
|E1 || Red 18 AWG || 5 || Primary AC Hot
−
! U2 ROM
 
−
! U6 ROM
 
−
! MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order
 
−
! Jumper CUTS
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''9316'''
+
|E2 || Yellow 18 AWG || 1 || Primary Neutral
−
| '''9316'''
 
−
| '''9316'''
 
−
| '''E1-4,2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-19,31-32,33-34'''
 
−
|
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''2716'''
+
|E3 || Red 20 AWG || 2 || Solenoid Bus Hot
−
| '''74S474'''
 
−
| '''74S474'''
 
−
| '''E1-3,2-6,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-18,31-32,33-35'''
 
−
|
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|  
+
|E4 || White/Red 20 AWG || 6 || Solenoid Bus Neutral
−
| '''2532 or 9332'''
 
−
| '''2532 or 9332'''
 
−
| '''E4-12, 7-8, 10-11, 13a-14, 16a-34, 29-33, 31-32'''
 
−
| '''E13-15'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|
+
|E5 || Green 20 AWG || 8 || Display High Voltage Hot
−
| '''2532 or 9332'''
 
−
| '''2732'''
 
−
| '''E4-12,7-8,10-11,13a-14,16a-29,31-32,33-35'''
 
−
| '''E13-15'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|
+
|E6 || White/Green 20 AWG || 10 || Display High Voltage Neutral
−
| '''9316'''
 
−
| '''9316'''
 
−
| '''E2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-19,31-32,33-34'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''9316'''
+
|E7 || Blue 18 AWG (2 wires) || 17 || GI Bus Hot
−
| '''9316'''
 
−
| '''2716'''
 
−
| '''E1-4,2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13a-19,16a-18,31-32,33-35'''
 
−
| '''E13-15'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|
+
|E8 || Black 18 AWG (2 wires) || 18 || GI Bus Neutral
−
| '''2716'''
 
−
| '''9316'''
 
−
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-19,31-32,33-34'''
 
−
| '''E13-15'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|
+
|E9 || Orange 18 AWG || 13 || Controlled Lamp Bus Hot
−
| '''2716'''
 
−
| '''2716'''
 
−
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35'''
 
−
| '''E13-15'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''2716'''
+
|E10 || Green 18 AWG || 14 || Controlled Lamp Bus Neutral
−
| '''2716'''
 
−
| '''2716'''
 
−
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35'''
 
−
| '''E13-15'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''2716'''
+
|E11 || White 20 AWG || 15 || 12V Input for 5-Volt Regulator Hot
−
| '''2716'''
 
−
| '''9316'''
 
−
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-19,31-32,33-34'''
 
−
| '''E13-15'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''2716'''
+
|E12 || White/Black 20 AWG || 16 || 12V Input for 5-Volt Regulator Neutral
−
| '''2716'''
+
|}
−
| '''2532 or 9332'''
+
<br clear=all>
−
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-34,29-33,31-32'''
+
AWG = American Wire Gauge (18 = fat, 20 = skinny)<br>
−
| '''E13-15'''
+
 
−
|-
+
"E" solder pads are labeled on the top side of the circuit board
−
|
+
<br clear=all>
−
| '''2732'''
+
 
−
| '''2716'''
+
====How To Hook Up a Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board====
−
| '''E4-13a, 7-8, 10-11, 12-GND, 16a-18, 31-32, 33-35'''
+
[[File:Stern-ta100-16b-6.png|300px|left|thumb|Stern TA-100 Rectifier Wire Color connections]]<br><br><br><br>
−
| '''E13-15'''
+
As mentioned above when you replace or remove and reattach your rectifier board you need to know how to hook it back up. I have done this with a lot of Stern pins and made myself a chart for quick and easy reference when re-attaching the rectifier to the transformer. I figured it may be useful to others as well.
−
|-
+
<br clear=all>
−
|
+
 
−
| '''2732'''
+
====How To Properly Mount a Bally AS-2518-54 Rectifier Board====
−
| '''2732'''
+
[[File:Bally-54mount01.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Bally AS-2518-54 Rectifier Board]]
−
| '''E4-13a, 7-8, 10-11, 12-GND, 16a-29, 31-32, 33-35'''
+
[[File:Bally AS-2518-54 Back.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Bally AS-2518-54 Rectifier Board (back)]]<br><br>
−
| '''E13-15'''
 
−
|-
 
−
! '''U1 ROM'''
 
−
! '''U2 ROM'''
 
−
! '''U6 ROM'''
 
−
! '''MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order'''
 
−
! '''Jumper CUTS'''
 
−
|}
 
  
−
The -133 board was used in 3 games: Baby Pacman, Granny and the Gators, and Grand Slam.  If you want to use a -133 board in a game that uses another board, you must change CR52 (a 1n4148 diode near J4) to a 2k resistor.  If you want to use a -35 board in a game that requires a -133, change resistor R113 to a 1n4148 diode, banded end farthest away from J4.  <b>IMPORTANT:</b> Before plugging the board in, measure the voltage at the MPU J4-15.  If it is 6.3 VAC, this game requires a -133. If it is 43 VDC, the game requires the -35 configuration.
+
The Bally AS-2518-54 rectifier board normally mounts on a large metal plate found in the bottom of the pinball machine’s cabinet.  It uses the metal plate as a heat sink for the two large bridge rectifiers on the underside of the board, so mounting it properly is important. Carefully following the steps illustrated below will ensure the board is correctly mounted for long term reliability.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
==== '''Bally AS-2518-17''' and Stern MPU-100''' Jumper Info====
+
<center>
−
The following is a list of various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Bally -17 or STERN MPU-100 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts.  The letter "E" has been eliminated on every jumper number after the first to save space.  '''9316'' ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory. The "-DASH" between numbers means to jump one point to the other, e.g. E 1-2 means jump E1 to E2. Some jumps are very close to each other, others are much farther away. Some cuts in the traces must also be made on the solder or component side of the MPU board, so read the NOTES section below carefully.
+
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="Mounting a Bally -54 rectifier board">
−
 
+
File:Bally-54mount02.jpg|<center><b>Locate the two mounting holes for the bridge rectifiers, circled in red, and the seven mounting holes for the circuit board, circled in yellow.</b></center>
−
{| class="wikitable"
+
File:Bally-54mount03.jpg|<center><b>Practice laying the board in the proper position once, so you’re sure you know where it goes. You want the two holes that go through the bridge rectifiers to line up with the holes in the plate. Also make sure the mounting screws around the edge of the board are lining up with their holes too.</b></center>
−
|-
+
File:Bally-54mount04.jpg|<center><b>Prep the surface of the mounting plate by cleaning the area, where the two bridges will mount, with some alcohol or acetone.</b></center>
−
! U1 ROM
+
File:Bally-54mount05.jpg|<center><b>Make a circle of heat sink grease around each bridge mounting screw hole approximately the diameter of a dime.  Heatsink grease is available from most all the popular vendors.</b></center>
−
! U2 ROM
+
File:Bally-54mount06.jpg|<center><b>Carefully place the rectifier board in back on the mounting board.  You want to get the board positioned as best as you can without moving it around a lot or you will smear the heat sink grease all over the place.  What I like to do is peek through one of the two mount holes on the board and locate the corresponding screw hole on the plate.  Then as you peek through this hole, guide the board into place while keeping the screw hole in sight.</b></center>
−
! U6 ROM
+
File:Bally-54mount07.jpg|<center><b>Double check your work, being careful not to move the board around too much. To avoid smearing the heat sink grease, it’s best if you can place it directly into the proper position the first time, without having to scoot it around afterwards.</b></center>
−
! MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order
+
File:Bally-54mount08.jpg|<center><b>Next, start the two mounting screws that go through the bridge rectifiers, but do not tighten them all the way.</b></center>
−
! Jumper CUTS
+
File:Bally-54mount10.jpg|<center><b>Now locate and install the remaining seven mounting screws along the perimeter of the board, but don’t tighten them all the way yet. Since all the screws are a little loose, you have a little bit of board movement available to help locate the mounting screw holes on the plate.</b></center>
−
|-
+
File:Bally-54mount11.jpg|<center><b>Once all the perimeter screws are in place, tighten the two bridge rectifier screws. You want them nice and tight so it spreads the heat sink grease into a nice, evenly spread thin layer. Just be careful that you don’t strip the threads out of the mounting holes. Then tighten up the perimeter screws after that.<br>All done!</b></center>
−
|  
+
File:Bally-54mount12.jpg|<center><b>One word of warning:  The mounting screws protrude way past the bottom of the board, so be careful where you place this assembly.  The screws may scratch your workspace (a nice table, countertop, etc.).</b></center>
−
| '''9316'''
+
</gallery>
−
| '''9316'''
+
</center>
−
| '''E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10'''
+
<br clear=all>
−
| '''Usual Factory Setting'''
+
====Pinout for Rectifier Board Connectors J1, J2, J3====
−
|-
+
[[File:BallySternRectifierBoards.jpg | thumb | left| 300px| <i>Diagram originally authored by PinSider Quench. Used by permission.</i>]]
−
|
+
[[File:RectifierBoardsStern.jpg | thumb | right| 300px| <i>Diagram originally authored by PinSider Quench. Used by permission.</i>]]<br><br>
−
| '''2716'''
+
A frequently asked question when working on Bally and Stern rectifier boards is, "can someone post a picture of their wiring"?
−
| '''9316'''
+
 
−
| '''E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10'''
+
These diagrams provide the wire colors and locations for Bally (left) and Stern (right) rectifier boards.
−
| '''Cut & Jumper See Note A'''
+
 
−
|-
+
The original diagrams, plus an addendum regarding Bally Kiss, Space Invaders, and Future Spa (which used the AS-2518-49 rectifier board) can be found in the PinSide thread [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-rectifier-board-j3-pinout-paragon <b><u>here</b></u>].
−
|
+
 
−
| '''2716'''
+
<b>Note: </b>Wire gauge is also indicated in each diagram. Thicker wires (for GI for example) are drawn thicker.
−
| '''2716'''
+
<br clear=all>
−
| '''E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10'''
+
 
−
| '''Cut & Jumper See Note B'''
+
===Bally and Stern Solenoid Driver Board===
−
|-
+
[[File:As-2518-16.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally AS-2518-16 Solenoid Driver/Regulator]]
−
|
+
[[File:As-2518-22.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Bally AS-2518-22 Solenoid Driver/Regulator]]
−
| '''2732'''
+
[[File:Stern-sdu100a.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Stern SDU-100 Solenoid Driver/Regulator]]
−
| '''NONE'''
+
[[File:Stern-sdu100b.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Another style of the Stern SDU-100 Solenoid Driver/Regulator (Revision B)]]
−
| '''E6-7, 8-10'''
+
 
−
| '''Cut & Jumper See Note C'''
+
First of all, everything mentioned in the following sections specifically reference the Bally AS-2518-22 solenoid driver board, found in most Bally pins from 1977 through 1985. Since the Bally AS-2518-16 and Stern SDU-100 boards are very similar, and all are identical as far as the operation of the solenoid driver circuits, the information is applicable to these boards as well. The main differences between Bally and Stern solenoid driver boards used from the factory are the physical layout of parts, and whether or not the board is single-sided or double-sided.  Since the physically connector locations are the same, Bally and Stern solenoid driver boards are similar enough to be interchangeable.<br>
−
|-
+
 
−
|
+
Secondly, if all this is Greek and you have no idea how decoder ICs work, or what a transistor is, take a look at the [http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#How_Bally_Coils_are_Driven_for_Dummies How Bally Coils are Driven for Dummies] section to learn the basics of how things work.<br>
−
| '''2732'''
+
 
−
| '''2732'''
+
Third, the solenoid driver board actually has three functions.
−
| '''E1-2, 3-5, 6-7, 8-10'''
+
#Drive the solenoid and relay coils of a pinball machine.
−
| '''Cut & Jumper See Note D'''
+
#Regulate the logic voltage which provides a nice and steady +5VDC to the other boards for their various logic circuits.
−
|-
+
#Regulate the high voltage (+190 VDC) for the display driver boards
−
| '''74S474'''
+
 
−
| '''74S474'''
+
The regulated voltage will not be discussed here, only the solenoid drive section.<br>
−
| '''2716 or 9316'''
+
 
−
| '''1-2, 3-4, 8-9 Factory Setting for Freedom or Night Rider ONLY'''
+
Finally, don't forget that the Solenoid Driver board contains the high voltage circuitry for the displays. There is 190 volts DC here and if you're not careful, you'll get knocked on your butt. '''A shock from 190 volts DC will hurt.''' If you don't know what you're doing, stay away from it and have a professional fix it instead. In addition to high voltages, there are static sensitive parts on these boards.  While working on boards, be sure to properly ground yourself before touching the board, and always work in a static-free workspace.
−
|  
+
<br clear=all>
−
|-
+
 
−
| '''2716'''
+
====Stern Driver Board Revisions====
−
|  
+
There are several versions of the Stern SDU-100 driver board. Revision A is the most radically different than all the other versions, since it has a blue solder mask and hand-drawn traces. This revision can have either "Rev 1" or "Rev 2" printed on the board below the "SDU-100" label.
−
| '''2716'''
+
 
−
| ''' See Note E'''
+
Revision B is marked as "B432" in the lower right hand corner. There is a lot of extra masking and labels on this board that are not seen on any other revisions.
−
| '''Freedom/Night Rider ONLY'''
+
 
−
|-
+
Revision C is is marked as "Revision C" in the center of the board. A fuse was added for the high voltage section for the displays. However, this fuse was proven to be largely useless, and did not blow if there was a short in the high voltage section's regulation transistors.
−
! '''U1 ROM'''
+
 
−
! '''U2 ROM'''
+
The final revisions of the board lacked a fuse, but included a shutdown transistor in the high voltage section intended to cut the high voltage power if there is a short in this section (however, this is not always successful depending on where the short is). The later revisions went up to revision D, and possibly E or F, but this is currently unconfirmed.
−
! '''U6 ROM'''
+
 
−
! '''MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order'''
+
<gallery widths=250px>
−
! '''Jumper CUTS'''
+
file:Stern-sdu100a.jpg|SDU-100 Revision A (Rev 1 and Rev 2)
−
|}
+
file:Stern-sdu100b.jpg|SDU-100 Revision B (B432)
 +
file:stern-sdu-100-rev-c-front.jpg|SDU-100 Revision C
 +
file:placeholder.jpg|SDU-100 Revision D/E/F?
 +
</gallery><br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====How Bally Coils are Driven for Dummies====
 +
[[File:Ballycoil1.jpg|200px|right|thumb|Typical Bally Coil (Mata Hari)]]<br>
 +
There are three main characteristics regarding the coils and coil connections in Bally games.
 +
*Two large gauge yellow wires going to one lug (mostly two wires as the wire is "daisy chained" from coil to coil).
 +
*One small gauge wire going to the other lug.
 +
*A diode soldered across the two lugs, with the "banded" end of the diode facing the yellow wires (power).
 +
 
 +
The majority of information in this section is applicable to Stern games too.  Bally and Stern solenoid driver boards are similar enough in overall design for them to interchange between games / manufacturers.  The only other primary difference between Bally and Stern is the wire color of the solenoid bus line in most cases.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
=====Notes to above Cut and Jumper Section=====
+
One lug on every coil is connected via a parallel circuit by the fatter wires.  This type of connection is also commonly referred to as a daisy-chained circuit. These fat wires supply each coil with positive 43 volts DC (+43VDC), so each coil is connected to the +43VDC bus. Most have two fat wires, but some may only have one. Flipper coils have these wires too, but they are connected a little differently, and are discussed elsewhere. For now, just assume regular solenoids are being discussed here.<br>
  
−
If a jumper combination is '''NOT''' listed in the chart above, this jumper must be cut or removed! Double check your work and verify that someone else has not modified the board before you begin the process. '''Incorrect''' jumper combinations will prevent the MPU from booting, showing a locked on MPU LED. This is a very common fault.
+
Each coil has a small skinny wire on the other lug. This wire goes to the control circuits on the solenoid driver board. In order to energize the coil, there must be a path to ground for the +43VDC. In its at rest state, the coil does not have a path to ground. When the small skinny wire gets connected to ground, the path is complete and current will flow. This current flow turns the coil into an electro-magnet, which then pulls the plunger into the coil. When the wire is disconnected from ground, current flow stops, the electro-magnet is turned off, and the plunger returns to it's normal position with help from either a spring or gravity.<br>
  
−
'''Note A, 2716 in U2, 9316 in U6'''<br>
+
Finally, there is a diode on each coil. When the current is quickly turned off on an energized coil, the magnetic field around the coil collapses quickly.  This action causes the coil to generate a huge voltage spike. The job of the diode is to prevent the majority of this spike from reaching the solenoid driver circuity. If the diode is bad (shorted) or installed backwards, the drive transistor will be destroyed the very first time the coil is energized, then released. The process is similar to the ignition system used in older cars.  When the points open, the 12 volts is removed from the car's coil quickly, which causes another coil to generate a huge voltage spike to the spark plug.
−
In addition to the jumpers listed above, you must also make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.
+
<br clear=all>
  
−
#On the component side of the -17 or MPU-100 board, cut the trace that runs from U2 pin 18 to U3 pin 18. Do this where the trace passes between sockets U2 and U3.
+
[[File:Ac-dc43.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Comparison of Electrical Sine Waves]]<br>
−
#On the solder side of the -17 board, run a jumper from U2 pin 18, to U17 pin 11.<br>
+
The computer program that runs the machine also tries to limit this spike by turning off the coil near the zero crossing of the AC line. This helps because the DC that drives the coils is rectified, but not filtered, so it's not smooth DC, but "humpy", as shown in the adjacent picture.<br>
−
#On the solder side of the -17 board, cut the trace going to U2 pin 21.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side of the -17 board, run a jumper from U2 pin 21 to U2 pin 24.<br>
 
  
−
'''Note B, 2716 in U2, 2716 in U6'''<br>
+
By energizing the coils just after the zero crossing, the in-rush of current caused by a coil is limited. By turning the coils off just after the zero crossing, the voltage spike caused by the collapsing field is also kept to a minimum.
−
In addition to the jumpers listed above, you must also make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.
+
<br clear=all>
  
−
Make sure jumpers E1-2, E3-4, E6-7, and E8-10 are in place.
+
[[File:Bsoledraw1.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Depiction of Multiple Coils in a Bally Game with Manual Switches Inserted and tied to Ground]]<br><br>
 +
So, in the simplest form, the solenoid driver circuits in a Bally game look like what is shown in the accompanying pic.  Look at it as a bunch of coils all connected to the +43VDC bus, and the other lugs going to switches which are connected to ground. If a switch were to close, it would connect the circuit from +43VDC to ground, and the coil would energize as long as the switch is closed.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
#On the solder side of the -17 board, cut the trace leading to U18 pin 4.
+
[[File:Bsoledraw2.jpg|200px|left|thumb|One Switch Closed and Energizing the Coil]]<br><br>
−
#On the solder side of the -17 board, connect U18 pin 5 to the trace you cut leading to U18 pin 4. It's easiest to run the wire from U18 pin 5 to the via ("trace thru dot") that connects to this trace.<br>
+
See how the circuit is complete due to the switch being closed, and the coil is energized. When the switch is opened again, the coil turns off, and is returned to the same state as the previous picture. If the diode were not there, there would be a big arc across the switch contacts upon the moment they opened up.
−
#On the solder side of the board, cut the trace leading to U2 pin 21.<br>
+
<br clear=all>  
−
#On the solder side of the board, cut the trace leading to U6 pin 21.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side of the board, jumper from U2 pin 21 to U2 pin 24.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side of the board, jumper from U6 pin 21 to U6 pin 24.<br>
 
  
−
'''Note C, Single 2732 at U2''' for the early 1977 to 1979 games.<br>
+
[[File:Bsoledraw3.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Depiction of Multiple Coils in a Bally Game with Transistors Shown]]
−
This modification combines the two original 9316 ROMs at U2 and U6 into a single 2732 EPROM at location U2. This configuration works for the following games only.
+
Now, take this one step further, and replace the manual switches with transistors. Transistors are normally used as amplifiers, but you can also use them as switches too. There are 3 leads on a transistor, the base, the emitter, and the collector. For NPN transistors like the ones on the Bally solenoid driver, the emitter and collector can be used like a switch. With no current supplied to the base, there is no current flow between the collector and emitter - the transistor switch is open, or OFF. If current is supplied to the base, the current will then flow between the collector and emitter, so now the switch is closed, or ON.<br>
  
−
*Black Jack
+
Without getting into too much detail - what happens is a current is applied to the base which is high enough to 'saturate' the transistor. This means the collector-to-emitter current will be amplified as high as it can, and the transistor will then conduct a large amount of current from COLLECTOR to EMITTER, in relation to the current flow from the BASE to the EMITTER. This is how it acts like a switch. The base goes high to turn it on, and low to turn it off. Since the collector is connected to the wire that goes to the coil (the small single wire), and the emitter is connected to ground, turning the transistor has the effect of connecting the collector to ground. This completes the circuit to the coil and it turns on (fires).
−
*Bobby Orr Power Play
+
<br clear=all>
−
*Eight Ball
 
−
*Evel Knievel
 
−
*Mata Hari
 
−
*Night Rider
 
  
−
To combine the original 9316 (or 2716) U2 and U6 ROM images into a single 2732 U2 image, use this DOS command:
+
A coil can be tested by momentarily grounding the tab on the coil's drive transistor. For the TIP-102 or similar transistors used in the Bally solenoid driver, the metal tab is connected to the collector. Knowing this, and what was just discussed, grounding the tab is the same as grounding the collector, which will complete the circuit to ground and fire the coil. However, this test only tests the wiring from the solenoid driver to the coil. It '''DOES NOT''' test the transistor itself or any circuitry before the transistor.<br>
  
−
:COPY /B U2ROM.716 + U6ROM.716 U2COMBO.732
+
The transistor and "control signal" in the simplified drawing above can be replaced with the actual circuit. More details regarding this circuit are found in the following section.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Make sure to use the "/b" switch when copying, as shown above. The command combines the two files into a single binary file.  
+
====Overview====
 +
Two circuit boards will be discussed: the MPU board (AS-2517-17 or -35) and the Solenoid Driver board (AS-2518-22 or -16). The solenoid driver gets signals from the MPU board. These signals tell the solenoid driver which solenoid to fire. Up to 15 momentary and 4 continuous solenoids can be controlled by the solenoid driver. The flipper solenoids are enabled or disabled from the solenoid driver too, but are not controlled like the other solenoids.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 +
====How the Solenoid Driver Works====
 +
The solenoid driver is responsible for energizing the solenoid coils of the pinball machine. Four signals from the U11 PIA integrated circuit on the MPU board travel out from the J4 to the J4 connector on the Solenoid Driver board. These four signals tell the Solenoid Driver which solenoid to fire. This is accomplished by using a decoder chip that takes the binary pattern of the four signals (16 different patterns) and decodes (or demultiplexes) them into one of sixteen different outputs. The four signals are applied to the decoder then the decoder is strobed. Normally, all sixteen of the decoder output lines are held high (+5vdc). When strobed, the decoder lowers one of it's sixteen output lines, depending on the pattern of the four input signals. Detailed info about the 74LS154 decoder chip is availalbe [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/134/231586_DS.pdf here].<br>
 +
 +
[[File:B_solenoid1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Typical Solenoid Driver Circuit]]
 +
With no input supplied (strobe is high), the output lines of the decoder are high (+5 vdc). This puts a voltage at the base of Q1 (this transistor is one of seven in the CA3081 transistor array chip). This turns Q1 "on" and the voltage supplied to it's collector via resistor R1 passes through the transistor to ground. At this point, little or no voltage is present at the base of Q2, and Q2 is "off". With Q2 off, the 40vdc at the coil has no place to go, and the coil remains deenergized.<br>
  
−
Add the following cuts and jumpers to the -17 MPU to use this configuration.
+
When the MPU board supplies the proper input signals (A-B-C-D) to the decoder, and the decoder is strobed (signal drops to low), the proper output signal will go low, which turns Q1 "off" (notice one of the two strobe lines goes to ground, so it's always low). This allows the +5vdc at Q1's collector to flow through the diode instead of Q1 on it's way to ground via resistor R3. This also puts a voltage at the base of Q2 and turns this transistor "on". When Q2 turns on, the 40vdc at the solenoid now has a path to ground through Q2 and current flows through the coil, thereby energizing it. Then the strobe to the decoder is released, the decoder output goes high again, Q1 turns on, Q2 turns off, and everything is back to normal.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
'''Reference the left picture.'''
+
Diode D1, resistor R3 and capacitor C1 work to slow the speed at which Q2 and the solenoid are able to turn off. This is important to prevent the "inductive kick" voltage that builds up when you try to turn off a solenoid quickly. A solenoid coil can build up hundreds of volts if it is switched off too quickly. For example, the spark in the spark plug of a car is generated from this inductive kick when the ignition coil is turned off quickly. In this case, D1 allows Q2 and the solenoid to turn ON quickly (which is OK) because the current that used to be flowing through Q1 can now flow forward through D1 and turn on Q2 quickly. However, when the decoder output goes back to high and Q1 turns back on, D1 prevents the charge from the base of Q2 from being sucked down Q1. The charge on C1 must drain off (slowly) through R3 and the base of Q2. This takes awhile and slows the turn-off of Q2 and the solenoid COIL, thus reducing the kick. Also, as the solenoid turns off and the voltage on the collector of Q2 starts to rise, this voltage is "fed back" by C1 to the base of Q2 and tends to keep Q2 on a little longer, slowing the turn-off of the solenoid even more. The OTHER diode (D2, across the solenoid) works to absorb the solenoid's turn-off kick by conducting when the voltage on the collector of Q2 is greater than about 40 volts.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
#Verify that jumpers E6-E7 and E8-E10 are in place. Remove '''any''' jumpers at E1, E2, E3, E4, or E5. That is, remove all jumpers except E6-E7 and E8-E10.  
+
===Lamp Driver Board===
 +
Bally and Stern controlled lamps are driven discretely via SCRs located on the lamp driver board. Because of this, neither manufacturer utilizes a lamp matrix.  Any variation of the lamp driver boards are capable of controlling a maximum of 60 discrete lamp circuits. Typically the 2N5060 SCRs can only control one lamp, while the MCR106 / SCR106 / C106 SCRs can control up to two lamps.<br>
  
−
'''Reference the center picture.'''
+
The first generation of both the Stern and Bally lamp driver boards has 4050 hex buffer chips installed between the 4514s and the MCR106 SCRs. It is unknown why both companies chose to remove these chips from later designs.<br>  
−
 
 
−
<ol start="2">
 
−
<li>
 
−
On the solder side of the -17 board, find U18 pin 4. Cut the trace close to pin 4 as shown below. In the picture below, a blue/black dot marks the cut made with a Dremel "ball cutter" bit.
 
−
</li>
 
−
 
 
−
<li>
 
−
Scrape the solder mask from the trace leading to pin 4.
 
−
</li>
 
−
 
 
−
<li>
 
−
Tack solder one end of a short length of wire (or resistor lead) to the bare trace. Solder the other end to U18 pin 5. This connects U18 pin 5 to U2 pin 18. You may choose an alternate method. Just be sure to connect the trace from the "trace through hole dot" to U18 pin 5.
 
−
</li>
 
−
</ol>
 
−
 
 
−
'''Reference the right picture.'''
 
−
 
 
−
<ol start="5">
 
−
<li>
 
−
On the component side of the board, locate U2 pin 13 (top right hand corner of U2). Slightly higher and to the right is a via "trace through hole" with a trace running straight down. Cut this trace to separate the via from the trace. In the picture below, the blue/black dot marks the location to cut.
 
−
</li>
 
−
 
 
−
<li>
 
−
On the component side, jumper from the via noted in step 5 to pad E4 (red wire in picture below). This connects jumper pad E4 to U2 pin 21.
 
−
</li>
 
−
 
 
−
<li>
 
−
On the component side, notice the large '''GROUND''' trace that runs down the board just to the right of the ROM sockets. To the right of the U2 ROM socket, scrape the solder mask from this large ground trace and add a jumper wire from this trace to pad E3 (orange wire/white tracer in picture below. Note that in this instance, U3 was also removed and the ground pad of U3 is used as a jumper point). This connects U2 pin 20 to ground.
 
−
</li>
 
−
 
 
−
<li>
 
−
Use your multimeter to verify that continuity exists between jumpered points.
 
−
</li>
 
−
</ol>
 
  
 
<center>
 
<center>
−
<gallery widths=200px heights=100px perrow=3 caption="Note C Cuts and Jumpers">
+
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption="Bally Lamp Driver Boards">
−
File:-17MPUFrontAnnotated.jpg|<center><b>Component Side Jumper Locations</b></center>
+
File:Bally AS-2518-14 LDB.JPG|<center><b>AS-2518-14, Rev. 2</b></center>
−
File:-17BackSideJumperAnnotated.jpg|<center><b>Solder Side Trace Reroute at U18 and "through hole" to U2, pin 18</b></center>
+
File:Bally AS-2518-23 LDB.JPG|<center><b>AS-2518-23</b></center>
−
File:-17FrontSideJumpers.jpg|<center><b>Component Side Cut (black dot) and Jumper Detail</b></center>
+
File:Bally AS-2518-23 LDB rev 1.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-23, Rev. 1</b></center>
 +
File:Bally AS-2518-23 LDB A000.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-23, A000</b></center>
 +
File:AS-2518-23PinsOnly.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-23, A000, no header pin carriers</b></center>
 +
File:AS-2518-23PinsOnlyPinsRemoved.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-23, A000, with pins removed for replacement</b></center>
 +
File:AS-2518-23PinsOnlyPinsReplaced.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-23, A000, "pins only", replaced</b></center>
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
 
</center>
 
</center>
 +
<br>
 +
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption="Stern Lamp Driver Boards">
 +
File:Stern LDA 1st Ver.JPG|<center><b>LDA-100</b></center>
 +
File:Stern LDA-100 2nd Ver.JPG|<center><b>LDA-100 Rev. B</b></center>
 +
File:Stern LDA-100 RevC.JPG|<center><b>LDA-100 Rev. C</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
====Lamp Driver Board Connector / SCR Mapping====
  
−
'''Note D, 2732 in both U2 & U6'''<br>
+
{| class="wikitable sortable"
−
This is a popular modification to the -17 & MPU-100 board as it maximizes the ROM space available and can accommodate almost every game from this period.
+
! SCR !! Connector !! Wire Color Code !! Wire Color !! SCR Type
−
+
|-
−
In addition to the jumpers listed above,make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.
+
| Q10 || J1-15 || 13 || Red-Yel || MCR-106
−
Make sure jumpers E1-2, E3-5, E6-7, and E8-10 are in place, & NO others are connected. It is a good idea to continuity check each of the necessary jumpers, '''BEFORE''' beginning work.
 
−
 
 
−
#On the solder side of the -17 or MPU-100 board, cut the trace that runs to U2 pin 21.<br>
 
−
#On the component side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U2 pin 18. Best place to do this is where the trace passes between sockets U2 and U3. Use a mulitmeter continuity setting to figure out the trace to cut, and mark it with a Sharpie to avoid confusion and cutting of the wrong trace.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, jump a wire from U2 pin 18 to U2 pin 12.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, jump a wire from U2 pin 21 to U9 (6800CPU) pin 24.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U6 pin 21.<br>
 
−
#On the component side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U6 pin 18. A good place to do this is where the trace passes between sockets U6 and U5. Use your DMM's continuity setting to figure out the trace to cut.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U6 pin 18 to U6 pin 12. On the solder side, jump a wire from U6 pin 21 to U2 pin 21 (this connects both U2 and U6 pins 21 to U9 pin 24).<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, cut the trace that runs to U17 pin 2.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, cut the trace that runs to U18 pin 4.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U17 pin 2 to U18 pin 4.
 
−
 
 
−
'''Note E  Bally Freedom and Night Rider ONLY'''<br>
 
−
These notes are for the Bally Freedom and Night Rider ROMs
 
−
 
 
−
These two games used an unique set of ROMs at U1 and U2. These are 74S474 or 7461
 
−
(512 byte) ROMs at U1 and U2, and a 9316 or 2716 (2K byte) at U6. According to Williams tech, they state that a U1 2716 EPROM and a U6 2716 EPROM can be used for these two games.If using a -17 or M-100 MPU with a U1 2716 EPROM and U6 2716 EPROM, there are some cuts and jumps required:
 
−
 
 
−
#Cut the trace from U1 pin 18 to U2 pin 18.<br>
 
−
#Cut the trace from U1 pin 21 to pad E7.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 21 to U1 pin 24.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 18 to U17 pin 11.<br>
 
−
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 22 to U2 pin 22.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
==== '''Stern MPU-200''' Jumper Info====
 
−
The following is a list or various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Stern MPU-200 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts. '''9316''' ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory, used on the first few MPU-200 games.  Stern switched almost exclusively to a 4x2716 configuration sometime around Seawitch through the end of their run and various boards have been spotted in the wild that seem factory with 2x2732 configuration.  Galaxy has been spotted with an oddball 3x9316 + 1x2716 configuration.
 
−
 
 
−
{| class="wikitable"
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
! &nbsp;U1 ROM&nbsp;
+
| Q22 || J1-10 || 32 || Yel-Blu || MCR-106
−
! &nbsp;U2 ROM&nbsp;
+
|-
−
! &nbsp;U5 ROM&nbsp;
+
| Q37 || J3-23 || 98 || Gry-Blk || 2N5060
−
! &nbsp;U6 ROM&nbsp;
 
−
! &nbsp;MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order
 
−
! &nbsp;Jumper CUTS&nbsp;
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''&nbsp;(empty)'''
+
| Q60 || J3-03 || 81 || Blk-Red || 2N5060
−
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;(empty)'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;2-3, 5-7, 13-14, 16-18, 23-25, 32-33, 34-35'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
+
| Q11 || J1-16 || 12 || Red-Blu || 2N5060
−
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;1-5, 2-6, 8-9, 12-13, 16-18, 19-20, 22-25, 26-28, 29-31, 32-33, 34-35'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
+
| Q26 || J1-07 || 34 || Yel-Grn || 2N5060
−
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;1-5, 2-6, 8-9, 13-14, 16-18, 19-20, 23-25, 26-28, 29-31, 32-33'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
+
| Q32 || J3-27 || 40 || Grn || 2N5060
−
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;2-3, 5-7, 9-10, 13-14, 16-18, 19-21, 23-25, 27-28, 29-30, 32-33, 34-35&nbsp;'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| '''&nbsp;(empty)'''
+
| Q54 || J3-11 || 20 || Blu || MCR-106
−
| '''&nbsp;2732'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;(empty)'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;2732'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;1-2, 4-5, 13-15, 16-18, 24-25, 32-33, 34-35'''
 
−
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
! '''&nbsp;U1 ROM'''
+
| Q49 || J3-17 || 27 || Blu-Orn || MCR-106
−
! '''&nbsp;U2 ROM'''
+
|-
−
! '''&nbsp;U5 ROM'''
+
| Q06 || J2-14 || 12 || Red-Blu || 2N5060
−
! '''&nbsp;U6 ROM'''
+
|-
−
! '''&nbsp;MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order'''
+
| Q19 || J2-15 || 32 || Yel-Blu || 2N5060
−
! '''&nbsp;Jumper CUTS&nbsp;'''
+
|-
−
|}
+
| Q31 || J2-02 || 20 || Blu || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
To combine the 9316 or 2716 ROM images into the proper format 2732 images, use the following MSDOS commands.
+
| Q45 || J2-01 || 60 || Brn || 2N5060
−
*copy /b U1ROM.716 + U2ROM.716 U2Combined.732
+
|-
−
*copy /b U5ROM.716 + U6ROM.716 U6Combined.732
+
| Q16 || J2-22 || 62 || Brn-Blu || MCR-106
−
 
+
|-
−
Note that jumpers 32-33 and 34-35 control the clock speed of the MPU-200.  To use an MPU-200 in a game that normally uses a Bally -17/-35 or a Stern MPU-100 board, you should remove these jumpers as they will cause the software to run faster.  This isn't really a problem, but timings of sound events might be affected as well as other unforeseen consequences.  If using a MPU-200 board in a Bally -17 or -35 or a Stern MPU-100 game, you can remove the 5101 RAM at U13, as it will not be accessed.  If the chip or socket at U13 is bad, it can be ignored.  This however is a waste of resources, as the MPU-200 board is hard to find and cannot be substituted by a -17 or -35 board [http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=415 without some modifications].<br>
+
| Q14 || J1-18 || 58 || Wht-Blk || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
Additionally, if all 32 dip switches are turned off upon boot with an MPU-200, it will flash seven times and jump into self-test mode.  This will toggle alternatively every solenoid, flashing controlled lamps, and test each digit on the score displays.  At least one DIP switch must be on to avoid this.  This is not a function of the board itself, just the software used.  For example, if you put earlier stern software (previous to Meteor) or any Bally software in an MPU-200, it will not enter self-test with all dips off.
+
| Q29 || J1-01 || 41 || Grn-Red || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
* To down-grade the MPU-200 to the older MPU-100, remove jumpers 32-33 and 34-35 (used on all Stern MPU-200 EPROM configurations), and remove the 5101 RAM chip from U13.
+
| Q36 || J3-26 || 38 || Yel-Blk || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
* The MPU-200, when jumpered for four 2716 EPROMS (U1,U2,U5,U6), will run Bally games using three 2716 (U1,U2,U6) ERPOMs.
+
| Q57 || J3-01 || 10 || Red || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
* On a MPU-200 configured for four 2716 EPROMs (U1,U2,U5,U6), to run Bally games using two 2716 (U2,U6) EPROMs, change the MPU-200's jumpers E13-14 to E13-15, and E5-7 to E1-5.
+
| Q12 || J1-19 || 60 || Brn || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
===Bally / Stern MPU Board LED Never Lights or is Locked On===
+
| Q27 || J1-09 || 52 || Wht-Blu || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
If the LED never lights, either the +12v (TP2, J4 pin 12) is missing or the LED is bad.  By default, the LED is ON until the software tells U11 to turn it OFF.<br>
+
| Q38 || J3-25 || 36 || Yel-Brn || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
If the LED lights solid, there's some digging to do.  First off, if the board has any corrosion damage at all, it needs to be cleaned and neutralized before attempting any repairs. While shot-gunning components might fix the board, it won't be 100% reliable if the corrosion isn't addressed.<br>
+
| Q50 || J3-12 || 21 || Blu-Red || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
Make sure you are getting a solid power path from the rectifier board through the solenoid driver / power regulator board to the MPU board.  A locked on LED can be caused by a poor connection anywhere in this chain.  Sometimes reseating connector J4 on the MPU board (lower left) will 'clean' a connector well enough to make a better connection.  While this may be a short term fix, be aware that any connector, which seems to work better after being reseated, really should be repinned and have its header pins replaced.<br>
+
| Q13 || J1-17 || 57 || Wht-Orn || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
Next, put your DMM or a logic probe on pin 40 of the 6800 cpu chip (U9).  Power on the board.  You should see the voltage remain low / at zero, and then approx 1/10 of a second later, rise to about +5 vdc (high).  This is the reset signal, which originates from the components in the lower left corner of the board, and is sent throughout the board to U9, U10, and U11.  What the reset section (called the 'valid power detector') does is not allow the MPU to boot until the +12 volts are stable over the value of ZR1 (a zener diode, usually either 8.2 or 9.1 volts).  This delay ensures that the +5 voltage is stable enough to run the MPU board reliably (the +5 volts is derived from the +12 volts on the solenoid driver / power regulator board).<br>
+
| Q28 || J1-08 || 51 || Wht-Red || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
The 6800 CPU chip will not 'unlock' and start program execution until it sees a transition from a low (0 volts) to high (~5 volts) signal.  This is the purpose of the power on reset delay.  The reset delay and signal must be present at all three of the reset inputs at U9 (pin 40), U10 (pin 34), and U11 (pin 34).  If the signal starts out immediately at a high level, the MPU will not start to boot until the transition takes place.  If you have a locked on MPU, you can take a screwdriver or your meter probe and short pins 39 and 40 together for a brief moment on U9.  If the game starts to boot after doing this, it's a safe assumption that the reset circuit is to blame.  Shorting the pins together simulates what the reset circuit does.<br>
+
| Q44 || J3-19 || 67 || Brn-Orn || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
If you need to rebuild the reset circuit, full kits are available from specialty suppliers such as Great Plains Electronics or Big Daddy Enterprises.  The kits include all replacement components in the corrosion zone.  Bare bones, component replacements are Q1 (2n3904 or 2n4401) and Q5 (2n4403 or 2n3906), but it is a good idea to go ahead and replace all the parts that come in the kit.  Replace components one at a time to ensure that you do not mix any up.  Note there are a some components that are polarized in their installation, which include VR1, CR5, Q1, and Q5.  Look carefully at the board to see if there are traces on the top and bottom of a component.  The continuity at a through hole can be compromised due to alkaline corrosion.  Therefore, it is recommended to solder these components from the top and bottom of the board to ensure that a good connection is maintained.<br>
+
| Q53 || J3-14 || 84 || Blk-Grn || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
The following is the list of parts for the reset section that should be replaced.  Parts listed with more than one type are equivalent and can be substituted freely.  It is also possible that the inductors L1 and L2 need to be replaced as well, however this is very rare.  If there is heavy corrosion on them they should be replaced.<br><br>
+
| Q39 || J3-24 || 72 || Orn-Blu || 2N5060
−
 
+
|-
−
'''Transistors:'''
+
| Q21 || J1-12 || 61 || Brn-Red || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q05 || J2-16 || 34 || Yel-Grn || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q18 || J2-20 || 35 || Yel-Wht || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q30 || J2-06 || 85 || Blk-Wht || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q43 || J2-07 || 91 || Gry-Red || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q52 || J3-13 || 13 || Red-Yel || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q51 || J3-15 || 53 || Wht-Yel || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q33 || J2-11 || 95 || Gry-Wht || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q15 || J2-23 || 97 || Gry-Orn || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q23 || J2-08 || 93 || Gry-Yel || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q58 || J3-02 || 95 || Gry-Wht || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q20 || J1-13 || 96 || Gry-Brn || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q03 || J2-21 || 47 || Grn-Orn || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q40 || J3-22 || 23 || Blu-Yel || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q46 || J3-18 || 56 || Wht-Brn || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q41 || J3-20 || 64 || Brn-Grn || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q17 || J1-11 || 65 || Brn-Wht || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q56 || J3-10 || 91 || Gry-Red || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q42 || J3-21 || 30 || Yel || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q47 || J2-10 || 98 || Gry-Blk || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q09 || J1-14 || 54 || Wht-Grn || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q34 || J1-02 || 43 || Grn-Yel || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q08 || J1-23 || 56 || Wht-Brn || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q01 || J1-24 || 50 || Wht || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q02 || J1-25 || 90 || Gry || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q07 || J1-27 || 53 || Wht-Yel || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q04 || J1-28 || 78 || Orn-Blk || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q35 || J1-03 || 45 || Grn-Wht || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q24 || J1-05 || 48 || Grn-Blk || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q25 || J1-06 || 25 || Blu-Wht || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q48 || J3-16 || 25 || Blu-Wht || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q59 || J3-04 || 14 || Red-Grn || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q55 || J3-09 || 15 || Red-Wht || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q23 || J1-04 || 35 || Yel-Wht || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Key || J1-20 || -- || ---- || Key
 +
|-
 +
| N/U || J1-21 || -- || ---- || N/U
 +
|-
 +
| N/U || J1-22 || -- || ---- || N/U
 +
|-
 +
| Q53 || J2-03 || 84 || Blk-Grn || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q39 || J2-04 || 72 || Org-Blu || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q52 || J2-05 || -- || ---- || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q21 || J2-12 || 61 || Brn-Red || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| Q07 || J2-13 || 53 || Wht-Yel || 2N5060
 +
|-
 +
| N/U || J2-17 || -- || ---- || N/U
 +
|-
 +
| Key || J2-18 || -- || ---- || Key
 +
|-
 +
| N/U || J2-19 || -- || ---- || N/U
 +
|-
 +
| N/U || J3-05 || -- || ---- || N/U
 +
|-
 +
| N/U || J3-06 || -- || ---- || N/U
 +
|-
 +
| N/U || J3-07 || -- || ---- || N/U
 +
|-
 +
| Key || J3-08 || -- || ---- || Key
 +
|-
 +
| N/U || J3-28 || -- || ---- || N/U
 +
|-
 +
| Q40 || J2-09 || -- || ---- || MCR-106
 +
|-
 +
| Q03 || J1-26 || 91 || Gry-Red || MCR-106
 +
|}
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Q1 - 2N3904/2N4401 (lower left area)
+
===Combination Solenoid / Lamp Driver Board===
 +
Two different solenoid driver boards were used in some later games.  Both of these solenoid driver boards are a combination solenoid driver board, lamp driver board, and where the +5v regulation.  The difference between the two in essence is one has a high voltage section for displays, while the other does not.
  
−
Q2 - 2N3904/2N4401 (near LED)
+
====AS-2518-107 Combination Solenoid / Lamp Driver Board====
 +
[[File:AS-2518-107.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Bally AS-2518-107 Combination Solenoid/Lamp Driver Board. This board integrates 5V regulation, along with lamp and coil drivers--all onto a single board.]]<br>
 +
The AS-2518-107 board was used only in two games:  Baby Pac-Man and Granny and the Gators.  The reason for its development is that both games are hybrid pinball / video games with smaller playing areas.  Therefore, neither game needed all of the overhead that a standard pinball had, and there were less solenoids (10).  Likewise, the lack of a high voltage section on this board is because these games use video monitors and did not have plasma displays.  It appears that there is a lesser amount of lamp drivers (30) also, however, that total is deceiving.  The difference between this board and the previous lamp driver boards is that previous boards had one SCR per lamp drive.  This board controls two lamps (multiplexed) per lamp drive.  And the lamp drives do not control two lamps simultaneously at any given time.  This gives the board a total of 60 controlled lamps.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Q5 - 2N3906/2N4403 (lower left area)<br><br>
 
  
−
'''Diodes:'''
+
====AS-2518-147 Combination Solenoid / Lamp Driver Board====
 +
[[File:AS-2518-147_rev-b.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Bally AS-2518-147 Combination Solenoid/Lamp Driver Board. This board integrates 5V and display voltage regulation, along with lamp and coil drivers--all onto a single board. The photo is of Revision B of this board.]]<br>
  
−
VR1 - zener 1N9598/1N4738A
+
The AS-2518-147 board was used only in two games:  Gold Ball and Grand Slam.  The reason for its development is assumed to be twofold.  First, Bally was looking to cut costs, and this board would have done the job.  Secondly, the board may have been used as a test transition between the now very old -35 boardset architecture and the next boardset (6803). The AS-2581-147 had a total of 11 solenoid drives.  Likewise, there were what appeared to be less lamp drives (30). But, like the AS-2518-107 board, this board multiplexed the lamps.  Again, two lamps can be controlled per lamp drive, but none of the lamp drives control two lamps simultaneously at any given time.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
CR44 - 1N4004 rectifier diode
+
===Vidiot Board===
 +
[[File:BLY_Vidiot.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Bally AS-2518-121 Vidiot Board (Note that some chips have been pulled from their sockets on this board)]]
 +
[[file:bally-vidiot-deluxe-board.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Bally Vidiot Deluxe Board (Note that this board has been refurbished)]]
 +
Bally created two Hybrid video/pinball games, [[Granny and the Gators]] and [[Baby Pac-Man]], which included a video game monitor and a pinball playfield. The Vidiot board is a special circuit board used to operate the video game portion and sounds of the hybrid games. However, each game used a slightly different Vidiot board. Baby Pacman used a "Vidiot Board", while Granny and the Gators used a "Vidot Deluxe Board". The two boards are not interchangeable.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
CR5, CR7 - 1N4148 switching diode
+
===Miscellaneous Boards===
 +
====Solenoid Expander Board (AS-2518-66)====
 +
[[file:Solenoid_Expander.jpg|thumb|left|alt=alternative text|Bally Solenoid Expander board- Arrow indicates necessary bulb]]<br>
 +
The Solenoid Expander board was used in several Bally games.  Its purpose is to enable a particular coil or to multiplex several coils.  It is typically driven by a lamp SCR on the lamp driver board versus a solenoid transistor on the solenoid driver board.  However, at least Centaur and Centaur II are exceptions.  Both games drive the solenoid expander board via the Q11 transistor on the solenoid driver board.<br>
  
−
CR8 - LED<br><br>
+
There is a 555 bulb near (or sometimes not so near) that lights when the solenoid expander is activated. This bulb is essential for proper operation of the expander as the main opto isolator chip (MOC3011) on the expander board needs a load to work. Neither Centaur nor Centaur II use this bulb.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
'''Capacitors:'''
+
====Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher (AS-2518-68)====
 +
[[FILE:BallyA-2518-68.jpg|thumb|left|Placeholder for Bally Auxiliary Driver Board]]<br>
 +
The auxiliary driver board is used on some Bally games to drive a triac, which in turn switches some of the general illumination on and off for effect. It is typically driven by a lamp SCR on the lamp driver board.  The driven triac is typically located on a bracket which is attached to the rectifier board mounting plate in the bottom of the cabinet.<br>
  
−
C1, C2 - 820pF ceramic capacitor
+
Much like the solenoid expander board, there is a 555 bulb near the auxiliary driver board that lights when the auxiliary driver board is activated. This bulb is essential for proper operation of the auxiliary driver, as the opto isolator chip (MOC3011) on the board needs a load to work.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
C3 - 0.01uF ceramic capacitor
+
====Bally Strobe Board====
 +
The Bally strobe board was used on Flash Gordon. A small transformer in the cabinet bottom provides the voltage required for this board. That power is fused by an "in-line" fuse at the small transformer.
  
−
C5 - 4.7uF tantalum capacitor
+
There isn't much to go wrong with this board as it's comprised of a few diodes and resistors. Other than replacing the actual strobe lamp and the "trigger" transformer, parts are easy to find. Some folks have been successful using a strobe lamp acquired from Radio Shack. A source for the trigger transformer is unknown.
  
−
C13, C80 - 0.01uF ceramic capacitor<br><br>
+
The trigger transformer should measure about 32 ohms between the pins marked 1 and 2, and about .2 ohms between the pins marked 3 and 4.
  
−
'''Resistors:''' (1/4 w unless noted)
+
If your strobe is producing a very weak strobe, or not working at all, test the two 22uf/250V electrolytic capacitors. Simply replacing out of spec capacitors may bring the strobe back to life.
  
−
R1, R3, R24, R28 - 8.2k
+
Another area for concern, as with all single sided PCBs is the header pins. Replacing these pins or simply reflowing the solder on them is a good idea as they are subject to cracked solder joints.
  
−
R2 - 120k
+
If working properly, the strobe will fire 4 times at game power up. It also strobes along with the controlled lamps during "all lamp" test. It obviously will strobe during game play too.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
R11 - 82 ohm/2 watt
+
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=4 caption="Flash Gordon Strobe Board Components">
 +
File:FlashGordonStrobeBoardFront.jpg|<center><b>Bally Strobe Lamp Board as found on Flash Gordon (front), with new 22uf capacitors.</b></center>
 +
File:FlashGordonStrobeBoardRear.jpg|<center><b>Bally Strobe Lamp Board as found on Flash Gordon (rear).</b></center>
 +
File:FlashGordonStrobe.jpg|<center><b>The "HAL-9000 like eye" strobe lamp as seen from the front of the lamp insert panel.</b></center>
 +
File:FlashGordonSmallTransformer.jpg|<center><b>Small transformer and in-line fuse in cabinet bottom.</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
R12 - 270 ohm
 
  
−
R16 - 2k
+
====Stern IM-100 Flash Lamp Board ====
  
−
R16 - 2.2k (stern mpu-200 only)
+
As part of Iron Maiden (1982) Stern utilized a prominent flasher lamp on the backbox lamp board,  controlled by a unique aux lamp driver board part number IM-100.
  
−
R17 - 150k
+
However, Stern did not document the use of this strobe lamp as part of the game manual or schematics.
  
−
R29 - 470 ohm
+
===Displays===
 +
Here are some different types of Bally displays
 +
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="Bally 6 and 7 digit displays">
 +
File:B-disp6-21.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-21 6-Digit Display</b></center>
 +
File:B-disp6-15.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-15 6-Digit Display</b></center>
 +
File:B-disp7-58.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-58 7-Digit Display</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br><br>
  
−
R107 - 3.3k
+
Here are some different Stern displays.  Note that the DA-300 circuit board is deeper than any of the other display types.
 +
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="Stern 4, 6, and 7 digit displays">
 +
File:Stern4display.JPG|<center><b>4-Digit Display</b></center>
 +
File:Stern DA-100 6 Digit Display Dbl Sided.JPG|<center><b>DA-100 6-Digit Display (Double-Sided)</b></center>
 +
File:Stern DA-100 6 Digit Display RevB.JPG|<center><b>DA-100 (Rev B) 6-Digit Display (Single-Sided)</b></center>
 +
File:Stern DA-100 6 Digit Display Sng Sided.JPG|<center><b>DA-100 6-Digit Display (Single-Sided)</b></center>
 +
File:B-disps2.jpg|<center><b>Different DA-100 6-Digit Display (Single-Sided)</b></center>
 +
File:placeholder.jpg|<center><b>DA-300 (Rev A) 7-Digit Display</b></center>
 +
File:Stern-display-da300-revb.jpg|<center><b>DA-300 (Rev B) 7-Digit Display</b></center>
 +
File:S-disp7-300.jpg|<center><b>DA-300 (Rev C) 7-Digit Display</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
R112 - 1k
+
====Bally 6-Digit Displays====
 +
[[File:B-disp6.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A healthy Bally 6-Digit Display]]<br>
 +
The following information is focused on the AS-2518-21 display. Since the AS-2518-15 display is interchangeable with the "-21" display, everything mentioned here will apply to both displays. 7-digit displays behave the same too, so this information will be helpful for those too. The only real difference is an additional digit enable signal, and some more electronics on the board to drive the 7th digit.<br>
 +
 
 +
If you could care less displays work, but are looking for information on how to repair them, then jump to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Repairing_Bally.2FStern_Displays Repairing Bally Displays] article below. We'll also show you some ideas on how to keep your displays working properly.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp15.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Example of a Bally AS-2518-15 6-digit display]]
 +
[[File:B-disp21.jpg|200px|right|thumb|Example of a Bally AS-2518-21 6-digit display]]<br>
 +
The two displays are a little different in the way the components are laid out. Regardless of the differences in appearance, they both perform the same function and are interchangeable with each other. The original display (at least the one mentioned in the Power Play Owner's Manual) is the "-21". The two shown here were upgraded with 1/2 watt 100K ohm resistors. A modification that should be done on all displays.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
R134 - 4.7k
+
[[File:B-disps1.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Example of a Stern 6-digit display]]
 +
[[File:B-disps2.jpg|200px|right|thumb|Example of a Stern 6-digit display]]<br>
 +
Likewise, there are different versions of Stern 6-digit displays.  These displays are interchangeable with all Bally and Stern games.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
R140 - 20k<br><br>
+
=====How the displays work=====
 +
The way the display circuitry works is really quite interesting. Although the human eye can not detect it, at any given moment, each display is only showing one digit at a time. The program that runs on the machine's computer is changing the digits so fast that it is not visible. If you were to film the displays and play the film back in slow motion, you'd see all the displays showing the same digit, and it cycles through all six, from left to right. It just cycles so fast that your brain thinks the whole display is lit all the time.<br>
  
−
If your reset circuit is operating as designed, yet the LED is still locked on, next step is to pull all the chips from the board except for U9, U11, and U6 (leave all chips U1-U6 installed on Stern MPU boards.  Only U6 is required on Bally boards to perform the initial LED turn off).  It helps to have a known working U6 from a Bally game to use as a test chip for this purpose.  Be aware that you need to know/have the board jumpered for the correct type of chip you're inserting.<br>
+
Each display has six digits, and upon closer inspection, each digit consists of seven segments. This is important stuff to know in order to understand how these displays work, and most important, how to fix them cheaply!<br>
  
−
See if the board starts and turns off the LED with just the chips above installed - if it does, add these chips back in this order to see which might be bad: U10 PIA, U1-U5 program chips, U7 6810 ram, U8 5101 ram.  Often a bad ram/rom can cause the entire system to lock up.  Bad chip sockets can be a factor as well; the early Bally -17 boards have a closed type brown socket that's especially prone to failure.<br>
+
There are 4 main "parts" of a display assembly:
 +
*The glass display itself
 +
*The display driver consisting of the input decoder
 +
*The six digit driver circuits
 +
*The seven segment driver circuits
  
−
Double check the jumpers to ensure they match the ROM chips you have available, and change the ROM chips to known working ones for testing. A final thing to check if the machine won't boot is the clock circuit. It is fairly robust, and far more common that the reset circuit itself or chip sockets are the issue.  To check the clock circuit you need a logic probe or oscilloscope.  A multimeter might show the average voltage on a clock circuit, or it might just show meaningless constantly changing numbers. The clock signal is pin 3 on the CPU chip, and the shifted clock signal goes to pins 36 and 37. The frequency is about 500 kilohertz for Bally -17, -35 and Stern MPU-100 boards, and approximately 850 kilohertz for the Stern MPU-200 board.<br>
+
There is one digit driver circuit for each of the six digits, and one segment driver circuit for each segment of a digit. How the actual glass display does what it does in order to light various digits and segments is beyond the scope of this tutorial. The decoder takes a number from 0 - 9 as input and determines which segments need to be energized in order to represent this number. The digit drivers are responsible for applying the proper voltages to the proper pins of the display to tell it which digit to light. The segment drivers are responsible for applying the proper voltage to the proper pins of the display to tell it which segments of the digit to light. It is the MPU's job to supply the proper signals to the display driver to make it do all this stuff.<br>
  
−
If the clock signal is missing, pull U9 first to make sure the CPU chip isn't damaged, and test it again.<br>
+
The decoder is a small integrated circuit (MC14543LE) called a "BCD To Seven Segment Decoder". This decoder happens to be a "latching" decoder, which means it latches onto its inputs and keeps them, even if they are no longer applied, until the decoder is told to release them (blanked). The decoder also has an input called a strobe. When strobed, the decoder will read it's four inputs and latch on to them. A strobe signal is usually a quick off/on/off pulse. There is also an input for the blanking signal.<br>
  
−
It can be frustrating to track down a locked on LED problem, but breaking the problem up and testing each section individually helps. Just remember that if the LED turns on and then off, most of the battle is won. The board has booted far enough that the software was able to start and turn off the LED. Proceed onto the LED flash testing to determine what needs to be fixed beyond that.<br>
+
[[File:Dispchart.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Labeled Segments and Truth Table]]<br>
 +
BCD stands for Binary Coded Decimal and is a fancy term for storing a number from 0 - 9 in a half byte of storage (four bits). Using BDC encoding, each byte of memory can store two digits. The input of the decoder is a BCD number from 0 - 9, and the output of the decoder is seven signals. These seven signals are either on or off, and relate to the seven segments of a digit. Each of the seven output signals go to a MPS-A42 transistor, which is part of a circuit called a segment driver. This transistor acts like a switch to turn the segments on or off. The outputs of the seven segment drivers go to the seven segment pins of the display glass. This is how the computer tells the display driver which segments to light. The MPU has a four-signal data path that goes to all five displays (or seven for Six Million Dollar Man). These four signals provide the 4-bit input into the decoder, and remember, all four signals go to ALL of the displays. Please see the diagram of how the segments are labeled, and a truth table showing the 15 possible inputs and outputs to the decoder. For those of you that don't know about binary arithmetic, you can get 15 possible combinations of on/off with 4 digits. (e.g., "0000", "0001", "0010", ..., "0111", "1111"). This is also how you count in binary, or base-2. Remember that the display driver is only interested in 10 of the 15 possible combinations, the ones that represent the numbers 0 - 9, or "0000" - "1001". Any other input combinations will result in unpredictable outputs from the decoder, so we label these as "don't cares", since we know they will never happen under normal circumstances.  
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
===Bally / Stern MPU Board LED Flash Sequence===
+
The digit driver circuit consists of an MPS-A42 transistor and a 2N5401 transistor connected in a circuit that acts as a switch. Normally with no input signal applied, the switch is off, keeping the high voltage supplied by the HV Regulator away from the display. There are 6 digit signals provided by the MPU, one for each digit. The MPU will enable one signal at a time, telling the display driver which digit to operate. This signal will then turn on the "switch" for the digit, allowing the high voltage a connection to the proper pins of the glass display to energize the desired digit. These signals from the MPU are simply 6 wires and the MPU will activate one of them at a time. Like the segment signals, the six digit signals go to all of the displays in a daisy chain fashion.<br>
  
−
Upon start up, Bally and Stern boards have an LED that flashes. The LED is used to convey the results of specific tests conducted on various parts of the system. This section explains what is being tested and how, according to information from the Bally "FO-561-2 Theory of Operation rev. 5-1982"  manual, and the Stern manual "Theory of Operation, Stern's Microprocessor Controlled Solid-State Games".
+
Before explaining how the computer makes all this work, let's summarize:
 +
A display driver has four inputs from the MPU. The first is a collection of six signals used to tell the display driver which digit to energize (six digits in the display, six digit signals). Only one of these signals are on at a time. The second input is a collection of four signals that tell the display driver which number to display, in the form of segments. These four signals provide a binary pattern that is interpreted as a binary number from 0 to 9. The third input is a strobe signal, which tells the decoder to read it's inputs, and the fourth signal is a blanking signal, which tells the decoder to turn off all it's outputs. Also, but not mentioned above, are various voltages from the power supply and high-voltage regulator. Each display driver is supplied with +5VDC from the 5-volt regulator on the solenoid driver board. This is used to drive the logic circuits of the decoder. There is also +190VDC<nowiki>*</nowiki> applied to the display driver from the high-voltage regulator on the solenoid board. Finally there is a connection to ground, which brings all the voltages to the proper reference point.<br><br>
  
−
When power is first applied to the MPU board, the LED by default is ON.  The very first set of valid instructions in every Bally / Stern game is to turn the LED off. This is more of a flicker than a flash, so is not counted as a flash in the 7 flash sequence.
+
<nowiki>*</nowiki>For brand new displays, this voltage should be at +190VDC in order to "burn in" the display. Once a display has become used, this voltage may be backed down to +170VDC, which will work just fine and will help prolong the life of the display.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
====Quick summary====
+
=====How The Computer Controls The Display=====
 +
The next thing to understand is how the computer in the pinball machine operates the displays. For this section, referenced MPU board will be the AS-2518-17 module, but all this also holds true for the "-35" MPU module as well. And again, the Bally AS-2518-21 and AS-2518-15 Display Drivers will be referenced. The Stern style display drivers operate the same, and the six digit Stern drivers are 100% swappable with the Bally displays. There are a few minor differences between the seven digit varieties of displays preventing a direct swap without modifications.<br>
  
−
<b>Flicker:</b>  MPU reset good, program booted.<br />
+
[[File:B-dispdiag.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Display Signals from MPU Board Illustrated]]
−
<b>1st Flash:</b> ROM Checksums OK<br />
+
<br>
−
<b>2nd Flash:</b> U7 6810 ram OK<br />
+
As mentioned above, there are four sets of signal lines that go from the MPU module to the display driver modules. The first set is the BCD data set which carry the display segment BCD data to all the displays on 4 wires. They leave the MPU module (A4) at connector J1, pins 25-28 and visit every display driver module at connector J1 and pins 16-19 (D4 - D0). The next set of signals is the digit enable signals. These 6 wires carry signals to all the display driver modules with information telling it which digit to light. The third set of signals are 5 latch strobe signals. There is one separate signal for each display driver, and it is the signal that tells the driver's decoder to read the decoder inputs, and output the proper segment signals. The final signal is a single single that goes to all the display drivers called Display Blanking. The signal tells the display driver's decoder to turn off all segment outputs, thereby blanking out the display, or turning all segments off.
−
<b>3rd Flash:</b> U8 5101 ram OK (U8 & U13 on mpu-200)<br />
+
<br clear=all>
−
<b>4th Flash:</b> U10 PIA OK (see details for caveats)<br />
+
[[File:BallySternDisplayInterruptCircuit.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Bally and Stern Display Interrupt Circuitry. The 555 timer is configured as a pulse generator.]]<br>
−
<b>5th Flash:</b> U11 PIA OK (see details for caveats)<br />
+
Once the machine has been turned on and has booted up, the processor on the MPU module is continuously running a program that is stored in the module's ROM chip(s). This program is responsible for controlling the game by reading all the switches, lighting all the lamps, activating all the solenoids, and controlling the displays. The program keeps a lot of information in RAM and uses this information to keep track of scores, switches, etc. An interrupt is a term for a section of computer program that interrupts the "main" program in order to execute a smaller program, sometimes referred to as a "service routine". We won't get into just how this actually happens, just be aware that the main program of a computer may be interrupted at any given time. And to make things even more complicated, interrupts themselves can be interrupted by higher priority interrupt service routines. There may be several different interrupts that occur in a pinball's computer program, but the one we want to study is the one that controls the displays. Keep in mind what was mentioned above, that at any given instant, only one digit is lit on any display. This is called multiplexing.<br>
−
<b>6th Flash:</b> U12 555 Display interrupt timer OK<br />
 
−
<b>7th Flash:</b> Zero crossing interrupt detector OK (solenoid voltage present)<br />
 
  
−
====LED flicker:====
+
320 times a second, or once every 3-1/4 milliseconds (thousands of a second), the CPU is interrupted to service the displays. In memory, the CPU keeps track of all the information it needs to operate all the displays. This information includes a counter used to indicate which display digit is active, the BCD data for all the displays, etc. Here's what the display service routine actually does:<br>
−
The LED flicker tells you the CPU chip was able to start a valid program stored in the EPROMs, and that the reset circuit itself is good.<br>
 
  
−
====First flash:====
+
*'''Determine which digit was updated last time''' - The MPU looks at the digit counter and adds 1 to this value. If the new value is 7, it is changes to 1, then the new value is stored back into memory. Let's assume the new value is 4, so we're going to update the 4th digit.
−
After the program is running, it performs a checksum of all programmed chips U1-U6. Most Bally games' programming is split between an operating system chip U6 and a game ROM chip at U2.  Stern games were a little looser.  The operating system and game code are freely interspersed.<br>
 
  
−
Bally checksums are calculated by summing each byte, and discarding any carries.  Most games check their code in $0400 blocks, so it would be possible to determine down to the chip which chip failed this checksum.  (A 2716/9316 chip has hex $0800 space available in it - 2732 sized images are $1000 in size.  The smallest chip used was a 474 PROM which has $0200 bytes available)  However, to do so would require a way to read the X register from the 6800 CPU chip at the time of checksum failure.  So if you do not get the first flash, it is best to replace the U6 chip first, then move onto the other chips - U5, U2, and U1 (if present).<br>
+
*'''Blank out all the displays''' - The CPU raises the signal on the Blanking Line which causes all displays to go blank (the blanking signal tells all the decoders to turn off their segment outputs).
  
−
Stern checksums are calculated similarly, but not in chunks.  The entire program space is summed and must equal $00 for the first flash to occur.<br>
+
*'''Fetch the BCD data from memory''' - The BCD data for the first display, 4th digit is fetched from memory.<br>
  
−
Regardless of whether the manufacturer is Bally or Stern, after the checksum is passed, the first flash occurs.<br>
+
*'''Send the BCD data to the display driver''' - This BCD data is placed on the BCD data bus and display #1 is strobed. This will cause the display's decoder to latch onto the input signals (store them for future use).
  
−
====Second flash:====
+
*'''Do it again''' - The previous two steps are repeated for the second, third, fourth, and fifth display.
−
Next, the program tests the 6810 RAM chip at U7, by writing the data $00 to each memory location contained in the RAM ($00-$7F).  It then reads back each location to ensure that $00 is returned.  It increments the data to $01 and repeats this test.  This continues until the data read back is $FF (256), which is the maximum value of any one byte stored in the RAM.  It then increments the memory location being tested, and repeats the $00-$FF data storage test.  If any of the tested locations return an unexpected result, the program stops, and alerts you to a problem with U7 (since you got the first ROM checksum flash, but not the 2nd U7 OK flash). <br>
 
  
−
====Third flash:====
+
*'''Enable the digit''' -  The MPU then enables the 4th digit and disables the other 5 digits by raising and lowering signals on the Digit Enable lines.
−
Now, the program tests the non-volatile 5101 RAM chip at U8 (U8 AND U13 on Stern MPU-200 boards). The 5101(s) store(s) bookkeeping data, game parameters, high scores, replay levels, etc.  The program tests this RAM ($200-$2FF) by reading the original nibble / byte (see sidebar), and saves it in a temporary location.  Then, it stores a test pattern in the location similar to the U7 test.  After the byte successfully passes the test, the original data is returned to the location, and the program loops onto the next byte.<br>
 
  
−
<b>LEARN MORE: How does a 128 byte 5101 RAM occupy 256 memory locations?</b><br>
+
*'''Finally, turn the digit on''' - The MPU lowers the signal on the Blanking Line, which causes the all of the decoders to output their proper segment signals and the 4th digit on each display is displayed.
  
−
If you look at a pinout of the 5101 memory, you will notice it is a 128 byte device.  Yet, it is addressed by the MPU via 256 memory locations ($200-$2FF).  This is because the 5101 is actually a 256 nibble device - a nibble is a half-byte (4 bits).  So data stored to a 5101 in a pinball machine actually only stores half of the data byte being sent to it.  Which half it stores is dependent on the board design.  Bally and Stern use the upper nibble for storage, and Williams used the lower nibble.  Stern MPU-200 boards have an additional 5101 at U13.  This stores the lower nibble in conjunction with U8 storing the upper nibble of a byte saved to $200-$2FF.  This allows MPU-200 games to store more data, and avoid doing some fancy processing by getting the data in and out of the non-volatile ram area.<br>
+
*'''All done!''' - The interrupt service routine then exits and control returns to the main program
  
−
For example, here's some pseudo-machine code for what happens:
+
As you can see, the display interrupt service routine only handled 1 digit for all displays. Every time it is invoked, it will process the "next" digit, resetting the counter back to 1 when necessary. The process of updating 1 digit for all displays takes about 500 microseconds, or 1/2 of a millisecond, to complete. Pretty cool, eh?<br>
−
*LOAD #$24 (the data you want to store is 24)
 
−
*STORE $231 (you want to store the data 24 at memory location $231)
 
−
*READ $231 (you want to read back the data you just stored)
 
−
The data returned is not #$24 as expected, but rather #$2F. The lower nibble was never stored, because the 5101 memory does not store data as bytes but rather as nibbles.  To store #$24 properly would require splitting the byte into its nibbles '2' and '4'. The 2 would be stored in one memory location, while the 4 would be shifted, and stored in another memory location.<br>
 
  
−
Showing the byte as binary might be helpful to visualize what's involved.  The hex #$24 in binary is %00100100.  Split into nibbles is %0010 (the 2) and %0100 (the 4). The upper nibble is the one the 5101 is able to store directly, but the position in the byte of the lower nibble prevents it from being stored.  A shift operation is performed 4 times on the byte to reposition the lower nibble as the upper nibble, which enables it to be stored to the 5101. Each shift moves the binary pattern to the left one bit - here's the full sequence:
+
So, lets do some math. It takes 1/2 millisecond to update one digit, and since there are 6 digits, it takes 3 milliseconds to display all six digits. Since the interrupt runs 320 times a second, and it takes 6 interrupts to update the entire display, dividing 320 by 6 means that the displays are completely updated just over 54 times every second. That's fast enough to fool your eyes and brain into thinking the display is completely lit all the time. Also, since the interrupt routine takes about 1/2 millisecond to run, and it runs 320 times every second, that means about 160 milliseconds of every second of time is spent updating the displays, which is about 16 percent of the time.
−
*Start=%00100100
+
<br clear=all>
−
*Shift left=%0100100x
 
−
*Shift left=%100100xx
 
−
*Shift left=%00100xxx
 
−
*Shift left=%0100xxxx
 
  
−
This gives the #$4 in the high nibble. All byte data has to be split this way to be saved, and recombined upon reading from boards (Bally -17 and -35, Stern MPU-100) with a single 5101 RAM chip.  You can see why Stern added the second 5101 RAM to their boards.  It makes programming much easier!<br>
+
===Bally Auxiliary Lamp Driver Boards===
 +
[[File:Bally AS-2518-43 Aux Lamp.JPG|left|thumb|200px|Bally AS-2518-43 Aux. Lamp Driver Board]]
 +
[[File:BLY aux lamp3.JPG|right|thumb|175px|Midway A084-91614-A000 Aux. Lamp Driver Board - same as AS-2518-43)]]
  
−
=====Continuity Chart for U8 5101 RAM in a Bally AS2518-17, -35 or Stern MPU-100 Board=====
+
To increase the total of controlled lamps used in a particular game, Bally implemented auxiliary lamp driver boards.  These aux. lamp driver boards were either used for effect (chaser or infinity lamps used between backglasses in games such as Xenon or Space Invaders), additional controlled insert lamps, or both (top rollover insert lamps and Queen's Chamber chaser lamps used on Centaur).<br>
  
−
{| class="wikitable"
+
There are essentially only two different boards used in games.  The first is an AS-2518-43.  This is the smaller footprint board, which has only one output connection.  It is capable of driving 12 discrete circuits or a total of 24 lamps (12 sets of 2 lamps).
−
|-
+
<br clear=all>
−
! IC & Pin#
 
−
! Data Address
 
−
! Continuity Points
 
  
 +
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 1
+
! colspan=21 align='center' | Outputs for AS-2518-43 Aux. Lamp Driver Board
−
| (A3)
 
−
| U7 pin 20, U6 pin 5, U9 pin 12
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 2  
+
!J2 Header
−
| (A2)
+
!1
−
| U7 pin 21, U6 pin 6, U9 pin 11
+
!2
 +
!3
 +
!4
 +
!5
 +
!6
 +
!7
 +
!8
 +
!9
 +
!10
 +
!11
 +
!12
 +
!13
 +
!14
 +
!15
 +
!16
 +
!17
 +
!18
 +
!19
 +
!20
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 3
+
| Output
−
| (A1)
+
|| <center><b>Q1</b></center>
−
| U7 pin 22, U6 pin 7, U9 pin 10, U11 pin 35
+
|| <center><b>Q2</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q3</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>KEY</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q4</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q5</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q6</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>GND</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>GND</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q7</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q8</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q9</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q12</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q11</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q10</b></center>
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
[[File:BLY aux lamp2.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Bally AS-2518-52 Aux. Lamp Driver Board]]<br>
 +
The second board is the AS-2518-52. This board is narrower, yet longer in construction.  It is capable of driving 28 discrete circuits or a total of 56 lamps (28 sets of 2 lamps).  Either aux. lamp driver board receives the same inputs from the CPU board.  Likewise, these signals are identical to the signals sent to the primary lamp driver board.  The only differing signal between the primary lamp driver board and either aux. lamp driver board is the lamp strobe.  The primary lamp driver board receives lamp strobe 1, while the aux. lamp driver boards receive lamp strobe 2.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 4
+
! colspan=21 align='center' | Outputs for AS-2518-52 Aux. Lamp Driver Board
−
| (A0)
 
−
| U7 pin 23, U6 pin 8, U9 pin 9, U11 pin 36
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 5  
+
!J2 Header
−
| (A5)
+
!1
−
| U7 pin 18, U6 pin 3, U9 pin 14
+
!2
 +
!3
 +
!4
 +
!5
 +
!6
 +
!7
 +
!8
 +
!9
 +
!10
 +
!11
 +
!12
 +
!13
 +
!14
 +
!15
 +
!16
 +
!17
 +
!18
 +
!--
 +
!--
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 6
+
| Output
−
| (A6)
+
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
−
| U7 pin 17, U6 pin 2, U9 pin 15
+
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>KEY</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q2</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q7</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q6</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q1</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q3</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q5</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q4</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q9</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q14</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q13</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q8</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q10</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q12</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q11</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 7
+
!J3 Header
−
| (A7)
+
!1
−
| U7 pin 15, U6 pin 1, U9 pin 16, U11 pin 24
+
!2
−
|-
+
!3
−
| U8 pin 8
+
!4
−
|
+
!5
−
| GROUND
+
!6
 +
!7
 +
!8
 +
!9
 +
!10
 +
!11
 +
!12
 +
!13
 +
!14
 +
!15
 +
!16
 +
!17
 +
!18
 +
!19
 +
!20
 +
|-
 +
| Output
 +
|| <center><b>--</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>KEY</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q16</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q21</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>GND</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>GND</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q20</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q15</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q17</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q19</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q18</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q23</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q28</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q27</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q22</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q24</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q26</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>Q25</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>GND</b></center>
 +
|| <center><b>GND</b></center>
 +
|}
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[file:placeholder.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Grand Products 0200-700 auxiliary lamp driver board]]A third auxiliary lamp driver board was produced, but not by Bally. It was specific to the [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=403 301/Bulls Eye conversion kit] produced by Grand Products, Inc. It can sometimes be misidentified as a standard Bally AS-2518-52 aux lamp board because of its similar footprint and layout. However, it does not have any silkscreened text on the top of the board, the .156" pins are keyed differently, and it has an additional row of .100" header pins.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Bally Sound Boards===
 +
====Bally AS-2518-32 Sound Board====
 +
 
 +
[[File:As-2518-32.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-32 Sound Board with 2 pots]]
 +
[[File:Bally -32 Sound 3-Pot.jpg| 180px | right |thumb | Bally AS-2518-32 Sound Board with 3rd pot at R35]]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
<b>-32 Sound Board ROMs & Jumper Settings</b><br>
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!Game
 +
!U3 ROM
 +
!Jumper Settings
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pins 9&10
+
| Lost World || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B&nbsp;
−
| (D10&D00)
 
−
| U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U9 pin 29, U11 pin 29 (* pins 9 & 10 siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pins 11&12
+
| Six Million Dollar Man|| &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B&nbsp;
−
| (D11&D01)
 
−
| U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U9 pin 28, U11 pin 28 (* pins 11 & 12 siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pins 13&14
+
| Playboy || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B&nbsp;
−
| (D12& D02)
 
−
| U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U9 pin 27, U11 pin 27 (*pins 13 &14 siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pins 15&16
+
| Voltan Escapes Cosmic Doom || ? || ?
−
| (D13&D03)
 
−
| U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U9 pin 26, U11 pin 26 (* pins 15&16 siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 17
+
| Supersonic || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B&nbsp;
−
| (CE2)
 
−
| Q5 Right Upper leg, U9 pin 40, U11 pin 34
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 18
 
−
| (OD)
 
−
| U18 pin 6
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 19
 
−
| (CE1)
 
−
| U17 pin 8
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 20
 
−
| (R/W)
 
−
| U7 pin 16, U9 pin 34, U11 pin 21, U18 pin 7
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 21
 
−
| (A4)
 
−
| U7 pin 19, U6 pin 4, U11 pin 22
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 22
 
−
| (Vcc)
 
−
| C13 Left Leg, R12 upper Leg, CR5 Lower Leg
 
 
|}
 
|}
 +
Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
=====U8 & U13 5101 RAM Continuity Chart for Stern MPU-200 ONLY=====
+
====Bally AS-2518-50 Sound Board====
 +
[[File:As-2518-50.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-50 Sound Board]]
 +
<br clear=all>
  
 +
<b>-50 Sound Board ROM & Jumper Settings</b><br>
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!Game
 +
!U3 ROM
 +
!Jumper Settings
 
|-
 
|-
−
! IC & Pin#
+
| Star Trek || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, D&nbsp;
−
! Data Address
 
−
! Continuity Points
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 1
+
| Kiss || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, D&nbsp;
−
| (A3)
 
−
| U13 pin 1, U7 pin 20, U6 pin 5, U9 pin 12
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 2
+
| Paragon || &nbsp;E729-51&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
−
| (A2)
 
−
| U13 pin 2, U7 pin 21, U6 pin 6, U9 pin 11
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 3
+
| Harlem Globetrotters || &nbsp;E729-51&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
−
| (A1)
 
−
| U13 pin 3, U7 pin 22, U6 pin 7, U9 pin 10, U11 pin 35
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 4
+
| Dolly Parton || &nbsp;E729-51&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
−
| (A0)
+
|}
−
| U13 pin 4, U7 pin 23, U6 pin 8, U9 pin 9, U11 pin 36
+
Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Bally AS-2518-51 Sound Board====
 +
[[File:As-2518-51.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-51 Sound Board]]
 +
 
 +
The AS-2518-51 sound board improved over earlier sound boards that only made tones and introduced the ability to produce sound effects.
 +
 
 +
This sound board has a single sound ROM labeled u4.
 +
 
 +
There is a single self-test push-button on the board, which has the ability to produce a tone or a series of sounds. However, not all game sound ROMs have the self-test feature available. Some ROMs will make the board beep only once, some ROMs will repeat a test sound, and other ROMs do not respond to the self-test button at all. To complete a successful self-test, a sound ROM with a self-test feature must be used. Note that when a sound ROM without a self-test feature is installed and results in an unresponsive self-test, this does not necessarily indicate a problem with the sound board or sound ROM.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
<b>-51 Sound Board ROMs & Jumper Settings</b><br>
 +
Jumper A is used when U3 is a 6802 and U10 (6810) is not installed.<br>
 +
Jumper B is used when U3 is a 6808 and U10 (6810) is installed.<br>
 +
Jumper C is used when U4 is 2K in size (9316B or 2716).<br>
 +
Jumper D is used when U4 is 4K in size (2532 or 4732).
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!Game
 +
!U4 ROM
 +
!ROM Size
 +
!Jumper Settings
 +
!Self-Test
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 5
+
| Nitro Groundshaker || E776-14, E776-15 || 2K || B, C || No
−
| (A5)
 
−
| U13 pin 5, U7 pin 18, U6 pin 3, U9 pin 14
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 6
+
| Future Spa || E781-2, E781-5 (or sub with E781-13) || 2K || B, C || No
−
| (A6)
 
−
| U13 pin 6, U7 pin 17, U6 pin 2, U9 pin 15
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 7
+
| Silverball Mania || E786-8, E786-11 || 2K || B, C || Yes
−
| (A7)
 
−
| U13 pin 7, U7 pin 15, U6 pin 1, U9 pin 16, U11 pin 24
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 8
+
| Space Invaders || E792-2, E792-7 || 2K || B, C || No
−
|
 
−
| U13 pin 8, GROUND
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pins 9&10
+
| Rolling Stones || E796-11, E796-19 || 2K || B, C || Yes
−
| (D10&D00)
 
−
| U13 pins 9 & 10, U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U9 pin 29, U11 pin 29 (* pins 9 & 10, siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pins 11&12
+
| Mystic || E798-2, E798-5 || 2K || B, C || Yes
−
| (D11&D01)
 
−
| U13 pins 11&12, U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U9 pin 28, U11 pin 28 (* pins 11 & 12 siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U13 pins 11&12
+
| Viking || E802-2, E802-7 || 2K || B, C || Yes
−
| (D11&D01)
 
−
| U7 pin 3, U6 pin 10, U9 pin 32, U11 pin 32
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pins13&14
+
| Hot Doggin || E809-2, E809-7 || 2K || B, C || Yes
−
| (D12&D02)
 
−
| U13 pins 13 & 14, U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U9 pin 27, U11 pin 27 (*pins 13 &14 siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U13 pins 13&14
+
| Frontier || E819-2, E819-9 || 2K || B, C || Yes
−
| (D12&D02)
 
−
| U7 pin 4, U6 pin 11, U9 pin 31, U11 pin 31
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 15&16
+
| Skateball || E823-2, E823-14 || 2K || B, C || Yes
−
| (D13&D03)
 
−
| U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U9 pin 26, U11 pin 26 (* pins 15&16 siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U13 pins 15&16
+
| Speakeasy || E877-1 || 2K || B, C || ?
−
| (D13&D03)
 
−
| U7 pin 5, U6 pin 13, U9 pin 30, U11 pin 30 (* pins 15&16 siamesed together)
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 17
+
| BMX || E888-02 || 4K || B, D || ?
−
| (CE2)
+
|-
−
| U13 pin 17, Q5 Right Upper leg, U9 pin 40, U11 pin 34
+
| Grand Slam || E895-? || 4K || B, D || Yes
 +
|-
 +
| Gold Ball || E896-? || 4K || B, D || Yes
 
|-
 
|-
−
| U8 pin 18
+
 
−
| (OD)
+
 
−
| U13 pin 18, U14 pin 9
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 19
 
−
| (CE1)
 
−
| U13 pin 19, U17 pin 8,
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 20
 
−
| (R/W)
 
−
| U13 pin 20, U7 pin 16, U9 pin 34, U11 pin 21, U14 pin 10
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 21
 
−
| (A4)
 
−
| U13 pin 21, U7 pin 19, U6 pin 4, U11 pin 22
 
−
|-
 
−
| U8 pin 22
 
−
| (Vcc)
 
−
| U13 pin 22,  C13 Left Leg, R12 upper Leg, CR5 Lower Leg
 
 
|}
 
|}
 +
Source for Jumper Information: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
=====Issues with 5101 RAM chips=====
 
  
−
The socket at U8 or U13 is very close to the corrosion effects of the alkali of a leaking battery. This is often the cause of boards not showing a 3rd flash. There are traces on the component and solder side of the board, and the socket can hide corrosion to these traces.  In turn, the corrosion can affect the 5101 chip's contact with the socket pins.<br>
+
====Sounds Plus Sound Board (AS-2518-56)====
 +
[[File:BallySoundsPlus.jpg|200px|left|thumb| Bally AS-2518-56 Sounds Plus Board]]<BR><BR>
 +
The Sounds Plus board was only used in Xenon and very early Flash Gordons. The Sounds Plus board has a daughter card called the Vocalizer that contains the roms and circuitry needed to generate speech.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Unless the board is unusually clean, a rebuild of a non-working board should include replacing the socket at U8 (and U13, for MPU-200). The chip is an oddball configuration with 22 pins which makes machine pin sockets hard to find. Use 2 strips of machine sockets, so that you can solder both above and below the board. Inspect the traces closely on the top; it is best to avoid soldering on the top of a board unless you have to as it makes it extremely difficult to desolder the sockets in the future. Take extreme care not to make a solder bridge of the traces on the component side, as it is easy to do.  Performing a continuity test to adjacent socket legs after soldering is a good practice. Also, note that some of the pins are shorted together. (see above)<br>
+
====Vocalizer Speech Board (AS-2518-57)====
 +
[[File:Bally Vocalizer.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bally AS-2518-57 Vocalizer Board]]
 +
[[File:BallyVocalizerAndSoundsPlus.jpg|300px|Right|thumb|Bally AS-2518-57 Vocalizer and Sounds Plus Boards Insitu]]<br>
 +
The Vocalizer board was only used in Xenon and very early Flash Gordons. It is a complimentary board to the AS-2518-56 Sounds Plus board, and contains the numerous roms needed for an extensive speech vocabulary.  <br>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Failure to achieve the third flash can also be attributed to the following: If the U8 and U13 (MPU-200) show correct continuity as charted above, and the 5101 RAM is known to be good, the problem could lie with the U19 (4011) chip. On Stern MPU-200, replace U14 (4572) instead. Finally, although rare, the 6800 CPU at U9 could be bad.<br>
+
====Squawk & Talk Sound Board (AS-2518-61)====
−
+
The Squawk & Talk (S&T) sound board was the first to offer sound and speech in one board to Bally games. It is probably the most intuitive sound board Bally offered too.  Similar to the Bally MPU boards, the S&T uses an LED flashing system during board initialization. There are at least 4 variations of the board: -61, -61a, -61b and -61d.<br>
−
The speed of the 5101 RAM chip can make a difference in the functioning of an otherwise good MPU board. If a slow chip is put into a good MPU, strange behavior such as inconsistent boot ups, incorrect score display behavior, among other things can result from the RAM not being able to keep up with the demand from the CPU. Below is a list of 5101 RAM chips and their speed. A lower number means a faster chip. A Stern MPU-200 board needs 2 chips of at least 450ns, while the Bally AS 2518-17 or -35 and the Stern MPU-100 can work correctly with a slower chip of 650ns. The stern mpu-200 board should have matching speeds for the 2 rams as they are selected and accessed simultaneously. A faster chip is fine for a replacement, but there will not be a performance enhancement.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
*PCD5101P (Philips manu) 150ns
 
−
*5101-1 450ns
 
−
*5101L-1 450ns
 
−
*5101L-2 450ns
 
−
*5101-2 450ns
 
−
*5101 650ns
 
−
*5101L 650ns
 
−
*5101-3 650ns
 
−
*5101L-3 650ns
 
−
*5101-8 800ns (too slow for any board)
 
  
−
The 5101 RAM chip is especially sensitive to static discharge that will damage it, so take extra precaution in handling.  The memory RAM replacement chip sold by Tom Callahan at pin-logic.com uses a 6116 and special adapter, and makes a good replacement. Pin-logic also sells the static ram chips that do not require batteries for backup; although he advertises that these do not work in the Stern MPU-200 board, 2 of them did work on a test board.  Another source for varying types of 5101 and 6116 replacements is a blog site [http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=392 WarpZoneArcade].  There is information how to roll-your-own 5101 replacement adapters.  Or, visit its accompanying site, [http://pinforge.com PinForge], and purchase pre-made RAM adapters.<br>
+
Some variations of this board have a J3 header connection located at the top upper left edge of the board.  This connection was never implemented. Likewise, some boards are populated with a 2 x 20 pin .100" header connection located on the left edge of the board.  This connection is marked on the schematics for the use of a vocalizer, which was never implemented.<br>
  
−
====Fourth and Fifth flashes:====
+
All of the different variations of this board should work on all games.  The exceptions are Centaur and Centaur II.  These two games must use the -61b board.  The reason for this are the extra input/output connections at J2 (bottom right of board) needed for connection to the Say It Again board and the "FF" jumper which routes analog audio to the SIA board (or not).  A standard -61 or -61a has a total of 6 header pins at J2, while the -61b has a total of 10 header pins.<br>
−
Next, the program tests each of the 2 6820/6821 peripheral interface adapters (PIAs) at U10 and U11, starting with U10.  The PIAs are set to a known state, then data is stored and read back from them to verify their registers are functioning properly.  It is important to note that it is not possible for the PIA to be 100% tested with this test, as external data would have to be fed in to do so.  However, the test will at least test the internal registers.  It would be possible for a PIA to pass the self-test, but still not work properly with external inputs. <br>
 
  
−
Assuming the PIAs pass, the fourth (U10) and fifth (U11) LED flashes occur. The LED itself is connected to the U11 PIA. So if the LED is locked on, U11 might be bad. It's worth letting a locked on LED board 'sit' for a minute or so to see if the game boots all the way up without flashing each test step. This is an example of how a PIA can pass self test but still be bad. The LED control pin has no feedback as to if the LED is in fact flashing. <br>
+
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption="4 Revisions of the AS-2518-61 Squawk and Talk Sound Board">
 +
File:S&T AS-2518-61.JPG|<center><b>AS-2518-61 Squawk & Talk Sound Board</b></center>
 +
File:As-2518-61a.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-61a Squawk & Talk Sound Board</b></center>
 +
File:SquawkAndTalk-61BRevision.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-61b Squawk & Talk Sound Board. Note expanded connector at J2 (lower right).</b></center>
 +
File:AS-2518-61D.jpg|<center><b>AS-2518-61d Squawk & Talk Sound Board installed in VECTOR.</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
====Sixth flash:====
+
<br clear=all>
−
The sixth flash waits for an external input on U11 pin 40 from the display interrupt generator circuit, which occurs 320 times a second.  If you're missing the sixth flash, there may be a problem with either the U12 circuit, '''OR''' the input pin on the PIA.  A logic probe, oscilloscope, or a multimeter on pin 40 can help you determine which is at fault.  A logic probe will pulse if the display circuit is operating; the scope will show you the signal's waveform; and the multimeter should settle on a voltage somewhat between 0-5 volts.<br>  
 
  
−
One definite reason for lack of a sixth flash is a poor connection on the ground side of C16, the film capacitor. If there isn't a sixth flash, but all other tests and measurements are good, it's a safe bet that U11 is bad and needs to be replaced.<br>
+
<b>Squawk & Talk Jumper Settings</b><br>
 +
[[File:SquawkAndTalkJumperAndTestPointLocations.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Bally Squawk & Talk Jumper Locations. Note that the -61B revision of the board contains a jumper FF located within the stack of resistors below the AD558. Neither the -61 or the -61a revision has this jumper.]]<br><br>
  
−
Note that the sixth flash does '''NOT''' check for the proper '''frequency''' of operation of the display generation circuitry. As long as there is a pulsing signal (technically, ONE state change), the test is marked good and the program allowed to continue.<br>
+
The first table below is a list of the Squawk & Talk jumper settings by game as specified in the 1982 Bally / Midway parts catalog. These jumpers reflect the original ROM configuration when the game was released. If you've changed your sound ROMs to 2716s or from 2532s to 2732s, see the second table below.<br clear=all>
  
−
====Seventh flash:====
+
*If using a 6808 CPU chip with a 6810 chip, install L, remove K
−
The last flash waits for an external input on U10 pin 18 from the zero crossing detector circuit, which occurs 120 times a second (as the AC waveform passes or "crosses" 0 volts). Diagnosis of issues with the 7th flash are similar to the 6th flash. You can measure the input to pin 18 to determine if the signal is present or not. A signal present, but no flash could mean a bad U10 PIA. A missing signal usually points to missing solenoid voltage.  The source of the zero crossing signal is derived from the solenoid voltage delivered from the rectifier board.  Equally, if a signal is present, there may be an issue with the zero crossing detection circuit itself.<br>
+
*If using a 6802 CPU chip, install K, remove L. The 6810 can be removed if using a 6802, but doesn't impede proper operation if left in place
 +
*The 5 EE jumpers must be installed when the AY-3-8912 chip is not present.
 +
*The -61B revision of the board <b>has an FF jumper</b>, located in the stack of resistors below the AD558. This jumper should be OUT when a "Say it again" board is used (ala Centaur). This jumper should be IN when a "Say it again" board is not used or connected. The jumper "short cuts" the path used when a SIA board is connected. If the jumper is OUT and a SIA board is not connected, then there is no path for the analog sound to reach final amplification by the TDA2002 at U8.<br>
  
−
Note again that the seventh flash does '''NOT''' check for the proper '''frequency''' from the zero crossing detector. It simply checks for a pulsing signal, and only checks for '''ONE''' transition.<br>
+
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!Game
 +
!Original Jumper settings as shipped with factory configured ROMs
 +
|-
 +
| Flash Gordon      || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Eight Ball Deluxe  || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Fireball II        || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Embryon            || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, EE, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Fathom            || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, EE*, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Medusa            || &nbsp;C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, EE, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|- 
 +
| Elektra            || &nbsp;C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Centaur            || &nbsp;C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, EE, FF (if no SIA board), and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Rapid Fire        || &nbsp;C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, EE, CC, M&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, W, Y, U, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Spectrum          || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, H, DD, N, EE, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Vector            || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K&nbsp;
 +
|}
 +
Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.<br>
 +
''*''Note: Even though the parts catalog states otherwise, Fathom does use the EE jumpers.<br>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
After the 7th flash, the program does some background setup: reads dip switches, enables the displays, attract modes, switch scanning etc. in a 'game over' mode, waiting for player input.  The LED will sometimes be dimly glowing or even pulse as this happens, which is not a cause for alarm.  You can rebuild the LED circuit around Q2 if this worries you, but it is harmless.<br>
+
<b>Squawk and Talk board jumper settings for various sized ROMs at U2 through U5</b>
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!ROM Size/Location
 +
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;ALL&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;U2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;U3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;U4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;U5&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;2716 or 9316 || <center>C, E</center> || <center>D, P</center> || <center>Q, T</center> || <center>U, X</center> || <center>Y, BB</center>
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;2532 or 9332 || <center>C, E</center> || <center>D, G</center> || <center>Q, S</center> || <center>U, W</center> || <center>Y, AA</center>
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;2732 || <center>C, E</center> || <center>F, P</center> || <center>R, T</center> || <center>V, X</center> || <center>Z, BB</center>
 +
|}
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
===The Single Largest Culprit in MPU death===
+
====Say It Again Board====
−
----
+
[[File:SIA.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-81 Say It Again Sound Board. <i>Image courtesy of PinSider Victor Nash.</i>]]
 +
The "Say It Again" sound board adds reverb to a Squawk & Talk sound and speech board. This board was only used on Centaur and Centaur II.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
By far the largest reason the MPU board stops working is because of alkaline corrosion from the on-board rechargeable batteries.  The original battery used on the board is a 3.6 volt nickel cadmium rechargeable battery; over time, this type of battery leaks corrosion into the traces surrounding it, affecting the 5101 memory, the reset circuit, the 6810 memory, the LED area, and all the traces around it.  One of the worst boards had corrosion stretching throughout the entire ground plane of the board.
+
====Cheap Squeak Sound Board====
 +
[[File:Bally Cheap Squeak.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board A080-91603-XXXX or Midway P/N M-051-00114-XXXX]]
 +
The Cheap Squeak was designed as a lesser expensive sound board.  It only utilizes a 6803 microprocessor, which allows it to function without 6821 PIAs and external ram memory.  This sound board is only capable of simple tones and sounds and no speech.<br> 
  
−
[[File:Batery_damaged_bally_-17.jpg|400px|center|thumb]]
+
The following -35 games use the Cheap Squeak:
 +
*Black Pyramid
 +
*Cybernaut
 +
*Fireball Classic
 +
*Kings Of Steel
 +
*Spy Hunter
 +
*X's & O's
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
Granny and the Gators, a -133 game also uses the Cheap Squeak.  Lady Luck, a 6803 based game, also uses this sound board.<br clear=all>
  
−
====Get rid of that battery now!====
+
At power up, the Cheap Squeak's LED will flicker briefly, then flash, flash again, then turn on and stay on. Once the LED stays on, it seems to turn itself off for certain sounds, and then turn back on. Likewise, it appears to idle with the LED on, when no sounds are playing. The LED May turn on and off when sounds are playing or idle, but this is not always the case. With some games (Kings of Steel, X's and O's, and Black Pyramid), after the sound board successfully boots, the LED remains on.<br>
  
−
If you have a battery on the board, it is recommended to remove it immediately.  There are several different ways to replace the battery; in order of preference: 5101 ram eliminator, memory capacitor, nothing, lithium battery, remote mounted AA battery pack, exact replacement.  Let's look at each of the options in turn and weigh their pros and cons.
+
There are differing results when pressing the self test button depending on the sound ROMs.  For example, pressing the self test with Black Pyramid ROMs results in a differing tone played every time.  While pressing self test with Kings of Steel or X's and O's ROMs, causes the sound board to play the same sound each time.<br>
  
−
<b>5101 Ram Eliminator</b>
+
'''Board Theory of Operations'''<br>
−
:A 5101 ram eliminator doesn't eliminate the ram per se; it replaces it with a more modern ram that is either flash ram or has an internal battery built into it.
+
The 6803 (U1) microprocessor multiplexes A0-A7 with D0-D7, calling those signals AD0-AD7. The processor fetches information from the sound ROMs (both code to execute and sound clips) by placing address information on AD0-AD7 and strobing the processor's AS (address strobe) signal to the 74LS373 (U2), thereby latching the lower 8 bits of the address bus in the LS373. A8-A15 are used along with jumpers JW1 through JW12, to implement a memory mapped I/O scheme to address the 2 sound ROMs which can be 2532s, 2732s, or 2764s. A14 and A15 control the 74LS10 (a triple 3-input nand gate) to assert device selects to the ROMs. <br>
−
:<b>Advantages:</b> eliminating a static sensitive obsolete part, eliminating any type of battery that could leak, high reliability, very long retention time (10-99 years)
 
−
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> relatively high cost, need to remove the 5101 (if not socketed) and replace or add a socket, stressing relatively frail mpu board traces, flash ram type can wear out (although unlikely)
 
  
−
<b>Memory Capacitor</b>
+
Note that the processor does not use the traditional R/W signal as it never "writes" to memory. Besides placing instruction address and data on the address and data busses, the processor reads sound selects via P20-P24 and writes sound data to the DAC via P10-P17. Think of these lines as PA1-PA7 of a 6821 or 6532.<br>
−
:A small capacitor (5.5 volt 1.5 farad works well) is added to the board in place of the original battery. The charging circuit for the rechargeable battery works just fine in maintaining enough of a voltage to enable the capacitor to act in place of the battery.
 
−
:<b>Advantages:</b> relatively low cost, easy installation, no risk of battery leakage, high reliability
 
−
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> large initial charge time, some 5101s draw too much current, must turn machine on every couple of months to top off capacitor
 
  
−
<b>Nothing</b>
+
The 6803 is initialized by the MPU at power up into 6803 mode N. Once initialized and running, the sound ROM code running in the 6803 accepts sound signal commands and merely reads pre-formatted sound "clips" from the sound ROMs and then writes the data to the ZN429 (U6) digital-to-analog converter (DAC) 8 bits at a time. The DAC converts the digital data to an analog level which is presented to the amplifiers for output to the speaker(s).<br>
−
:Removing the battery and cleaning the board up, you do have the option to replace the battery with nothing. If you don't care about audits, settings, or high scores, this is a valid option.  Some software might not like having random garbage in its memory range, though.  If you have a stern mpu-200 based game, do not leave the battery out as the random garbage will cause problems with stern's software.
 
−
:<b>Advantages:</b> No risk of leakage, ever
 
−
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> No high scores save, no audits, garbage in ram can cause issues with some software
 
  
−
<b>Lithium Battery</b>
+
The board creates 5VDC on board by regulating 12VDC down to 5VDC. Unregulated 12VDC enters the board at J1-10. It is filtered by C8, C9, and C10. The inductor at L1 smooths the voltage somewhat. D6 (VR332, equivalent to a 1N5402), D7, and D8 drop the voltage by .5 - .7 volts (normal voltage drop across a diode). The 7805 at U9 further regulates the voltage down to 5VDC which can be measured at TP2 (TP3 is ground).<br>  
−
:Replacing the original nickel cadmium battery with a lithium battery is possible; however it is <u>imperative</u> that you add a blocking diode to prevent the battery from being charged.
 
−
:<b>Advantages:</b> Very long life (10 years on average), cheap, can be mounted far from boards so any leakage would not leak onto boards
 
−
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> Must use blocking diode, can leak (unlikely), any leakage difficult to clean up
 
  
−
<b>Remote Mounted AA Battery Pack</b>
+
This 5VDC is used to power the TTL logic ICs. The ZN429 DAC also uses this 5VDC as a voltage reference. To prevent the sound volume from fluctuating over the range of operating temperatures, the reference voltage is held constant by a "voltage divider biasing circuit" comprised of resistors at R22, R23, and R24, and a 2N5305 NPN transistor at Q7. This reference voltage is presented at pin 5 of the DAC.<br>
−
:A popular and inexpensive option is to replace the original battery with a small AA pack, with a blocking diode. Like the lithium replacement option, it is essential to have a blocking diode (usually incorporated into the pack) so the mpu doesn't try and charge the AA batteries.  If you get lithium AA batteries you can get very long life. This type of battery pack needs to be checked periodically to ensure no leakage is occurring.
 
−
:<b>Advantages:</b> Low cost, can be moved far from boards so if batteries so leak they do not leak directly onto boards
 
−
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> Periodic maintenance (replacing/checking), can leak
 
  
−
<b>Exact Replacement</b>
+
'''Test Points'''<br>
−
:You can replace the NiCad with a NiCad. Not recommended as all of the original pitfalls of the original battery are still present, but it will work.  Many people use cordless phone batteries to do this; just make sure the voltage and amp hour rating are similar to the original battery. (3.6 volt 150 milliamp hours)
+
*TP1 should measure about 11VDC.
−
:<b>Advantages:</b> Low cost, can also be mounted far from boards so any leakage does not leak directly onto boards
+
*TP2 is 5VDC.
−
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> Can leak, needs periodic maintenance (checking for corrosion)
+
*TP3 is ground.
 +
*TP4 is the clock signal, provided externally by the 6803 for the purpose of synchronizing address and data read cycles.
 +
*TP5 is the reset signal, which is also present on pin 6 of the 6803.<br clear=all>
  
−
Note that all of the replacement options that include batteries are subject to the same conditions causing leakage as the original battery was.  It is strongly recommended that if you decide to use a solution that uses a battery as its power source to remotely mount the battery so that any future leakage does not drip onto the boards.  The bottom of the head is a good choice as is the sidewall in cases where there are no boards mounted there.  Corrosion can and does travel through the wiring used to relocate the batteries however, so periodic inspection of the batteries and board are necessary to ensure that no further corrosion is occurring.
+
<b>Cheap Squeak ROMs & Jumper Settings</b><br>
 +
[[File:CheapSqueak.jpg|180px|left|thumb|Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board with Jumpers Highlighted]]
  
−
====Installation of Various Battery Eliminators====
+
{|class="wikitable"
−
----
+
! scope="col" | &nbsp;General EPROM Configuration&nbsp;
−
[[File:nicad_elim_options.jpg|center]]
+
! scope="col" | &nbsp;Jumpers Connected&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U3 & U4 using 2532s
 +
| &nbsp;J6, J9, J12
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U3 & U4 using 2732s
 +
| &nbsp;J7, J10, J11
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U3 ONLY using 2764 (works only for Cybernaut and X's & O's)&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;J2, J4, J7, J11, J10*
 +
|}
  
−
<b>AA Battery pack</b>
+
<b>*Note: If J10 is already installed, leaving it in should cause no ill effects when only using a single 2764.</b>
−
 
 
−
[[file:Battery-Holder-and-Diode.jpg|thumb|left|alt=alternative text|4 AA cell battery holder & diode]]
 
−
One inexpensive option is to replace the Ni-Cad rechargeable battery pack with a 4 AA battery pack plus diode using ordinary alkaline batteries. You must install a blocking diode (1N5817 or 1N4004 work fine) to prevent the game from trying to charge the battery and causing damage. Install the diode in the 1st bay with the banded side soldered to the "+" or RED terminal and the non-banded end to the "-" BLACK negative spring. Having a battery backup will save high scores & credits, and some sound settings. The holder can be mounted in a convenient spot in the backbox, and leads soldered to the MPU and a Molex .062 2 terminal pin and socket connected to the battery holder for easy servicing of the MPU. Mouser P/N 12BH348-GR for the 4 AA pack.
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
 +
<b>Sound ROM Configuration and Behavior by Game</b>
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
! scope="col" | &nbsp;Game&nbsp;
 +
! scope="col" | &nbsp;EPROM Configuration Tested&nbsp;
 +
! scope="col" | &nbsp;Jumpers Connected&nbsp;
 +
! scope="col" | &nbsp;LED Boot Behavior&nbsp;
 +
! scope="col" | &nbsp;SW1 Tune&nbsp;
 +
! scope="col" | &nbsp;Boot Tune&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Granny and the Gators&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;        &nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;        &nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;        &nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;        &nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;        &nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Cybernaut&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U3 - 2764, U4 - nu&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;J2, J4, J7, J11&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Flicker, Blink, Blink, On&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Space Ship Landing&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Ding followed by Decaying Buzz&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;X's & O's&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U3 - 2764, U4 - nu&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;J2, J4, J7, J11&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Flicker, Blink, Blink, On&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Single Chime that decays&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Single Chime that decays&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Spy Hunter&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U3 - 2732, U4 - 2732&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;J7, J10, J11&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Flicker, Blink, Blink, On&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Cartoon Electrical Short Circuit&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Chime followed by Rising Laser&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Lady Luck&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp; &nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp; &nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Flicker, Blink, Blink, On&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Explosion&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Black Pyramid&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U3 - 2732, U4 - 2732&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;J7, J10, J11&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Flicker, Blink, Blink, On&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Random Pitched Chime&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Ding followed by Decaying Buzz&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Kings of Steel&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U3 - 2732, U4 - 2732&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;J7, J10, J11&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Flicker, Blink, Blink, On&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Bell&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Chime followed by Rising Laser&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Fireball Classic&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U3 - 2732, U4 - 2732&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;J7, J10, J11&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Flicker, Blink, Blink, On (assumed - please verify)&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Bell&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;Chime followed by Rising Laser&nbsp;
 +
|}
  
−
<b>Memory Capacitor</b>
+
After pressing the test switch (SW1), a sound is played, and then the board reboots itself.<br>
−
:Remove original battery, neutralize and clean any corrosion left behind/inspect parts in area, replace as needed.  Drill a small hole to the left of the original batteries' negative terminal.  Install the capacitor with the negative lead in the leftmost hole of the negative terminal, soldering it into place.  Solder a lead to the positive terminal of the capacitor and bend the leg over to help hold it in place.  Solder the other end of the lead to either the positive hole from the original battery, or to the bottom lead of R12.  Double check your work in reference to the negative lead of the capacitor.  Turn the machine on an let the capacitor charge for between 8-12 hours.  Once the cap is charged, turning the machine on for about an hour a month will keep it topped up.
+
Note: Combining 2732 images into a single 2764 does not work for Black Pyramid, Fireball Classic, Kings Of Steel, or Spy Hunter.
−
 
 
−
[[File:Cap_install.jpg|center]]
 
−
<b>Original style battery, cordless phone battery</b>
 
−
:Remove original battery, neutralize and clean any corrosion left behind/inspect parts in area, replace as needed.  Solder new battery in, or better yet, attach fly leads to battery and remote mount.  Turn machine on for large initial charge to battery.
 
  
−
===Bally Solenoid Driver for Dummies===
+
====Bally Sound Board Pinouts====
 +
NC = not connected, and verified.<br>
 +
Not all N/U have been verified as NC. Some may actually be NC.
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!Pin Connection
 +
!AS-2518-32
 +
!AS-2518-50
 +
!AS-2518-51
 +
!AS-2518-56<br>Sounds Plus
 +
!AS-2518-61<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!AS-2518-61A<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!AS-2518-61B<BR>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!A080-91603-C000<BR>Cheap Squeak
 +
!A080-91864-C000<BR>Sounds Deluxe
  
−
First off, take a look at the picture below:
+
|-
 +
|J1-1
 +
|Sol. Address A
 +
|Sol. Address A
 +
|Sol. Address A
 +
|Sol. Address A
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
  
−
[[File:Ballycoil1.jpg|center]]
+
|-
−
 
+
|J1-2
−
This is a typical Bally coil from a Mata Hari machine. Notice 3 things: The two big fat yellow wires going to one lug, the small skinny wire going to the other lug, and the diode connected to the two lugs.  
+
|Sol. Address B
−
 
+
|Sol. Address B
−
One lug on every coil is visited by these fat wires, in what's called a daisy-chain. This is the wire that supplies each coil with positive 43 volts DC (+43VDC). So each coil is connected to the +43VDC bus. Most have two fat wires, but some may have one. Flipper coils have these wires too, but they are connected a little differently, and are discussed elsewhere. For now, just assume we're talking about regular solenoids here.  
+
|Sol. Address B
−
 
+
|Sol. Address B
−
Next, you'll notice each coil has a small skinny wire on the other lug. This wire goes to the control circuits on the solenoid/regulator board. In order to energize the coil, there must be a path to ground for the +43VDC. Normally, there is not so the coil is relaxed. When the small skinny wire gets connected to ground, the path is complete and current will flow. This current flow turns the coil into an electro-magnet and then pulls the plunger into the coil. When the wire is disconnected from ground, current flow stops, the electro-magnet is turned off, and the plunger returns to it's normal position, with help from either a spring, or gravity.
+
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
  
−
Finally, the diode. When the current is quickly turned off on an energized coil, the magnetic field around the coil collapses quickly and causes the coil to generate a huge voltage spike. The job of this diode is to prevent the majority of this spike from reaching the solenoid driver circuity. If the diode is bad, or installed backwards, you'll pop the driver transistor the first time the coil is energized, then released. It's like the ignition in older cars - when the points open, the 12 volts is removed from the car's coil quickly, which causes another coil to generate a huge voltage spike, to the spark plug. The computer program that runs the machine also tries to limit this spike by turning off the coil near the zero crossing of the line AC. This helps because the DC that drives the coils is rectified, but not filtered, so it's not smooth DC, but "humpy", like in this picture:
+
|-
 +
|J1-3
 +
|Sol. Address C
 +
|Sol. Address C
 +
|Sol. Address C
 +
|Sol. Address C
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
  
−
[[File:Ac-dc43.jpg|center]]
+
|-
 +
|J1-4
 +
|Sol. Address D
 +
|Sol. Address D
 +
|Sol. Address D
 +
|Sol. Address D
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
  
−
By energizing the coils just after the zero crossing, the in-rush of current caused by a coil is limited, and by turning them off just after the zero crossing, the voltage spike caused by the collapsing field is also kept to a minimum.
+
|-
−
 
+
|J1-5
−
So, in the simplest form, the solenoid driver circuits in your Bally look like this:
+
| +5VDC
−
 
+
| +5VDC
−
[[File:Bsoledraw1.jpg|center]]
+
| +5VDC
−
 
+
| +5VDC
−
Look at it as a bunch of coils all connected to the +43VDC bus, and the other lugs going to switches which are also connected to ground. Then, if you were to close a switch, that would connect the circuit from +43VDC to ground, and the coil would energize as long as the switch is closed.
+
|N/U
 +
|NC
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
  
−
[[File:Bsoledraw2.jpg|center]]
+
|-
 +
|J1-6
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Logic Ground
 +
|Logic Ground
  
−
Now see how the circuit is complete due to the switch being closed, and the coil is energized. Then you open the switch and the coil turns off and you're back to the first picture. If the diode were not there, when you opened the switch, there's be a big arc across the switch contacts at the moment they opened up.
+
|-
 +
|J1-7
 +
|NC
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
 +
|Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC)
 +
|Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC)
 +
|Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC)
 +
|N/U
 +
|Wired in game, but N/U in schematics, need info
  
−
Finally, take this one step further and replace the manual switches with transistors. Transistors are normally used as amplifiers, but you can also use them as switches too. There are 3 leads on a transistor, the base, the emitter, and the collector. For NPN transistors like the ones on your Bally solenoid driver, you can used the emitter and collector like a switch. With no current supplied to the base, there is no current flow between the collector and emitter, so the transistor switch is open, or OFF. If you supply a current to the base, current will then flow between the collector and emitter, so now the switch is closed, or ON.  
+
|-
 +
|J1-8
 +
|Sol. Bank Select
 +
|Sol. Bank Select
 +
|Sound Interrupt
 +
|Sound Interrupt
 +
|Sound Interrupt
 +
|Sound Interrupt
 +
|Sound Interrupt
 +
|Sound Interrupt
 +
|Sound Interrupt
  
−
[[File:Bsoledraw3.jpg|center]]
+
|-
 +
|J1-9
 +
| +43V
 +
| +43V
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
 +
|NC
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
  
−
Without getting into too much detail - what happens is a current is applied to the base which is high enough to 'saturate' the transistor. This means the collector-to-emitter current will be amplified as high as it can, and the transistor will then conduct a large amount of current from COLLECTOR to EMITTER, in relation to the current flow from the BASE to the EMITTER. This is how it acts like a switch. The base goes high to turn it on, and low to turn it off. Since the collector is connected to the wire that goes to the coil (the small single wire), and the emitter is connected to ground, turning the transistor as the effect of connecting the collector to ground. This completes the circuit to the coil and it fires.
+
|-
 +
|J1-10
 +
|NC
 +
|N/U
 +
| +12V Unregulated
 +
| +12V Unregulated
 +
| +12V Unregulated
 +
| +12V Unregulated
 +
| +12V Unregulated
 +
| +12V Unregulated
 +
| +12V Unregulated
  
−
You may have heard that you can test a coil by grounding the tab on the coil's driver transistor. For the TIP-102 transistors used in the Bally solenoid driver, the metal tab is connected to the collector. Knowing this, and what you've just learned, you can now see that grounding the tab is the same as grounding the collector, which will complete the circuit to ground and fire the coil. Note that this test only tests the wiring from the solenoid driver to the coil. It DOES NOT test the transistor, or any circuitry before the transistor.
+
|-
−
 
+
|J1-11
−
So, you can now replace the transistor and "control signal" in the simplified drawing above, with the actual circuit and more details found in the following section.
+
|Key
−
 
+
|Key
−
===Bally Solenoid Driver===
+
|Key
−
 
+
|Key
−
[[File:As-2518-16.jpg|center]]
+
|Key
−
<center>Bally AS-2518-16 Solenoid Driver/Regulator</center>
+
|Key
 +
|Key
 +
|Key
 +
|Key
  
 +
|-
 +
|J1-12
 +
|Sol. Address E
 +
|Sol. Address E
 +
|Sol. Address E
 +
|Sol. Address E
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|Sound Select
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
  
−
[[File:As-2518-22.jpg|center]]
+
|-
−
<center>Bally AS-2518-22 Solenoid Driver/Regulator</center>
+
|J1-13
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U (Spare Address Line)
 +
|N/U (Spare Address Line)
 +
|N/U
 +
|NC
 +
|N/U
 +
|Earth Ground
 +
|Earth Ground in schematics, not wired in game
  
 +
|-
 +
|J1-14
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|N/U (Ground)
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Ground
 +
|Logic Ground
 +
|Logic Ground in schematics, not wired in game
  
−
[[File:Stern-sdu100a.jpg|center]]
+
|-
−
<center>Stern SDU-100 Solenoid Driver/Regulator</center>
+
|J1-15
 +
| +43V Return (Sol. Ground)
 +
| +43V Return (Sol. Ground)
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
  
 +
|-
 +
|J1-16
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
 +
| +12V Unregulated Return
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
[[File:Stern-sdu100b.jpg|center]]
+
|-
−
<center>Another style of the Stern SDU-100 Solenoid Driver/Regulator</center>
+
|J1-17
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
| +12V Unregulated
 +
| +12V Unregulated
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
 +
|-
 +
|J1-18
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|N/U
 +
|N/U
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
First off, everything mentioned on this page is in reference to the Bally AS-2518-22 model solenoid driver board, found in most Bally pins from 1977 through 1985. Since it is very similar to the AS-2518-16 board and is identical as far as the operation of the solenoid driver circuits, you can assume it is applicable for these boards as well.
+
|-
−
 
+
!Pin Connection
−
Second, if all this is Greek to you and you have no idea how Decoder ICs work, or what a Transistor is, take a look at the Bally Solenoid Driver for Dummies article above first to learn the basics of how this stuff works.
+
!AS-2518-32
−
 
+
!AS-2518-50
−
Thirdly, this model of solenoid driver board actually has three functions: The first obviously is to drive the solenoid and relay coils of your pin, the second is a 5-volt regulator which provides a nice and steady 5 VDC to the other boards for their various logic circuits, and third is the high voltage regulator (190 VDC) for the display driver boards. I won't be discussing the voltage regulator stuff here, just the solenoid driver parts.
+
!AS-2518-51
 +
!AS-2518-56<br>Sounds Plus
 +
!AS-2518-61<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!AS-2518-61A<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!AS-2518-61B<BR>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!A080-91603-C000<BR>Cheap Squeak
 +
!A080-91864-C000<BR>Sounds Deluxe
  
−
Finally, Don't forget that the Solenoid Driver board contains the high voltage circuitry for the displays. There is 190 volts DC here and if you're not careful, you'll get knocked on your ass. A shock from 190 volts DC will hurt. If you don't know what you're doing, then keep away from it and have a professional fix it instead. In addition to high voltages, there are static sensitive parts on this board, so if you're going to work on it, be sure to properly ground yourself before touching the board, and always work in a static-free workspace.
+
|-
 +
|J2-1
 +
|Speaker +
 +
|Speaker +
 +
|Speaker -
 +
|Speaker -
 +
|Speaker -
 +
|Speaker -
 +
|Speaker -
 +
|Speaker -
 +
|Speaker -
  
−
====Overview====
+
|-
 +
|J2-2
 +
|Speaker -
 +
|Speaker -
 +
|Speaker +
 +
|Speaker +
 +
|Speaker +
 +
|Speaker +
 +
|Speaker +
 +
|Speaker +
 +
|Speaker +
  
−
We'll be discussing things from two circuit boards: The MPU board (AS-2517-17 or -35) and the Solenoid Driver board (AS-2518-22 or -16). The solenoid driver gets signals from the MPU board. These signals tell the solenoid driver which solenoid to fire. Up to 15 momentary and 4 continuous solenoids can be controlled by the solenoid driver. The flipper solenoids are enabled or disabled from the solenoid driver too, but are not controlled like the other solenoids.
+
|-
−
+
|J2-3
−
====How the Solenoid Driver Works====
+
|n/a
−
 
+
|n/a
−
The solenoid driver is responsible for energizing the solenoid coils of your pinball machine. Four signals from the U11 PIA integrated circuit on the MPU board travel out from the J4 to the J4 connector on the Solenoid Driver board. These four signals tell the Solenoid Driver which solenoid to fire. This is accomplished by using a decoder chip that takes the binary pattern of the four signals (16 different patterns) and decodes (or demultiplexes) them into one of sixteen different outputs. The four signals are applied to the decoder then the decoder is strobed. Normally, all sixteen of the decoder output lines are held high (+5 vdc). When strobed, the decoder lowers one of it's sixteen output lines, depending on the pattern of the four input signals. You can learn more about the 74LS154 decoder chip from [http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/134/231586_DS.pdf here].
+
|n/a
−
+
|n/a
−
Take a look at the schematic below, which shows one typical output line and the associated circuitry to drive a single solenoid coil:
+
|Key
 +
|Key
 +
|Key
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
With no input supplied (strobe is high), the output lines of the decoder are high (+5 vdc). This puts a voltage at the base of Q1 (this transistor is one of 7 in the CA3081 chip). This turns Q1 "on" and the voltage supplied to it's collector via resistor R1 passes through the transistor to ground. At this point, little or no voltage is present at the base of Q2, and Q2 is "off". With Q2 off, the 40 vdc at the coil has no place to go, and the coil remains deenergized.
+
|-
 +
|J2-4
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Remote Volume Return
 +
|Remote Volume Return
 +
|Remote Volume Return
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
When the MPU board supplies the proper input signals (A-B-C-D) to the decoder, and the decoder is strobed (signal drops to low), the proper output signal will go low, which turns Q1 "off" (notice one of the two strobe lines goes to ground, so it's always low). This allows the +5 vdc at Q1's collector to flow through the diode instead of Q1 on it's way to ground via resistor R3. This also puts a voltage at the base of Q2 and turns this transistor "on". When Q2 turns on, the 40 vdc at the solenoid now has a path to ground through Q1 and current flows through the coil, thereby energizing it. Then the strobe to the decoder is released, the decoder output goes high again, Q1 turns on, Q2 turns off, and everything is back to normal.
+
|-
 +
|J2-5
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Speech Volume
 +
|Speech Volume
 +
|Speech Volume
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
[[File:B_solenoid1.jpg|center]]
+
|-
−
 
+
|J2-6
−
Diode D1, resistor R3 and capacitor C1 work to slow the speed at which Q2 and the solenoid are able to turn off. This is important to prevent the "inductive kick" voltage that builds up when you try to turn off a solenoid quickly. A solenoid coil can build up hundreds of volts if it is switched off too quickly. For example, the spark in the spark plug of a car is generated from this inductive kick when the ignition coil is turned off quickly. In this case, D1 allows Q2 and the solenoid to turn ON quickly (which is OK) because the current that used to be flowing through Q1 can now flow forward through D1 and turn on Q2 quickly. However, when the decoder output goes back to high and Q1 turns back on, D1 prevents the charge from the base of Q2 from being sucked down Q1. The charge on C1 must drain off (slowly) through R3 and the base of Q2. This takes awhile and slows the turn-off of Q2 and the solenoid COIL, thus reducing the kick. Also, as the solenoid turns off and the voltage on the collector of Q2 starts to rise, this voltage is "fed back" by C1 to the base of Q2 and tends to keep Q2 on a little longer, slowing the turn-off of the solenoid even more. The OTHER diode (D2, across the solenoid) works to absorb the solenoid's turn-off kick by conducting when the voltage on the collector of Q2 is greater than about 40 volts.
+
|n/a
−
 
+
|n/a
−
====Testing and Replacing Transistors====
+
|n/a
−
To test a transistor set you DMM to diode test mode.  With the game turned off place the black lead on the metal tab of the transistor.  Probe the two outer legs of the transistor with your red lead and the DMM should read between .4v and .6v (some DMM will show 4xx - 6xx).  The center leg should be a dead short to the metal tab.  If either outer leg reads anything but .4v to .6v then that transistor needs to be replaced.  Use TIP-102 as the replacement transistor.
+
|n/a
 +
|Sound Volume
 +
|Sound Volume
 +
|Sound Volume
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
If a transistor needs to be replaced it is usually a good idea to check / replace the 1n4004 diode and 330 ohm resistor associated with that transistor as these will often burn / short.  Also check the diode on the associated coil, it is likely to be shorted as well.
+
|-
 +
|J2-7
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Reverb Audio In
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
[[File:Transistor_Replacement.jpg|1000px|center|thumb]]
+
|-
 +
|J2-8
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Shield Ground
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
====Solenoid Driver Upgrades====
+
|-
−
There are some upgrades that you can do to reduce stress on connectors.
+
|J2-9
−
 
+
|n/a
−
There are two 5v test points on the SDB and these can be tied together.  On the solder side of the driver board jump TP1 and TP3 together.  Be careful you get the right test point.  This eliminates a possible failure point on J3 pins 13 and 25.  Note that test point one is for the raw +5 voltage coming out of the regulator, and test point three is for the voltage that feeds all the +5 circuits in the driver section.  If there's a problem in the driver section, you can isolate it by removing this jumper and removing pin 13 or 25 from J3.
+
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Audio Out
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
Next the C23 cap needs a common ground with the rest of the SDB.  Jump the negative side of C23 to a convenient ground trace.  On most boards there is a ground trace going right by the C23 negative lead, other boards might require a longer jumper.  Scrape the solder mask off the trace to get a good solder surface to solder the wire to.  If you're replacing the C23 capacitor (a good idea, they can be 34 years old at this point) you can sometimes leave the negative lead "long" on the capacitor and bend it down to the ground trace and solder it in both the mounting hole and the trace.
+
|-
 +
|J2-10
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Shield Ground
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
C26 needs a ground upgrade similar to what C23 got.  Tie the negative side of C26 to the ground trace going along the outside of the board.  This connects both C23's and C26's negative side to a common ground on the SDB.  The goal of these modifications is to provide redundant grounds with the least resistance possible.
+
|-
 +
!Pin Connection
 +
!AS-2518-32
 +
!AS-2518-50
 +
!AS-2518-51
 +
!AS-2518-56<br>Sounds Plus
 +
!AS-2518-61<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!AS-2518-61A<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!AS-2518-61B<BR>Squawk &amp; Talk
 +
!A080-91603-C000<BR>Cheap Squeak
 +
!A080-91864-C000<BR>Sounds Deluxe
  
−
See this picture for a visual description of the upgrades.
+
|-
−
[[File:BallySternSDBupgrades.jpg|1000px|center|thumb]]
+
|J3-1
−
 
+
|n/a
−
====How to Rebuild the Bally/Stern Solenoid Driver Board====
+
|n/a
−
 
+
|n/a
−
 
+
|n/a
−
:The Solenoid Driver board is critical to the operation of the electronics of the game. The Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) comes in several types for Bally and Stern, and are completely interchangeable for any game of the 6800 MPU type. The SDB supplies the game with the voltages for the MPU, coils and high voltage for the displays. Recommendations are given below for replacing components to ensure proper operation and reliability. In all cases, do the ground modifications as shown in another part of this Wiki.
+
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Ground
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
'''Minimum Recommendation for a Working board'''
+
|-
−
:At a minimum, replace both large capacitors on a working or non-working board, especially if they look original. Original caps are often metallic blue or metallic silver, and are at least 30 years old and due to fail, owing to the electrolytic chemicals in the capacitor drying up. The capacitor at C 23 has a factory value of 11,000 uf and 20 volts, but these values are not easily found these days. A electrolytic capacitor of between 11,000uf and 16,000 uf and 25 volts or greater can be safely substituted. A screw terminal capacitor makes for a easy installation, but a snap cap with leads can be used as well. Recent prices for screw terminal caps have increased greatly so this may be a factor in your decision.
+
|J3-2
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Data
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
:The high voltage capacitor at C26 has an original spec of 160 uf and 350 volts and is a axial electrolytic capacitor. Once again, this part is difficult to encounter with these exact specs, but a axial or radial cap from 150uf to 180 uf and at least 350 volts can substitute. 400 v or 450v caps can be had in a radial format and size that will fit. With a radial cap you will have to make leads that bend back to the negative (-) solder pad.
+
|-
 +
|J3-3
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Clock
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
'''Preferred recommendation for a working board'''
+
|-
−
 
+
|J3-4
−
:Besides the above, replace ALL the .100 and .156 molex header pins and the connector terminals in the nylon housings with Molex TRIFURCON Phosphor Bronze tin plated crimp terminals (Molex Part# 08-52-0113 for 18-20 ga. Wire, and 08-52-0125 for 22-26 ga.) for the .156 connectors, and Molex .100 tin plated Phosphor Bronze crimp terminals, (Molex Part#08-52-0123). Do NOT skimp on this step and just do one or the other. The receptacles if not burnt, can be re-used. If replacing the receptacles, the locking or non- locking ramp type are fine. Often, the connector at J5 does not cover the last few pins. I don’t like this personally, although no harm can be done IF the key is in place.
+
|n/a
−
 
+
|n/a
−
:Check every resistor that is usually covered by the plastic shield between the two big heat sinks for correct value and no sign of burn. Replace any that are suspect. Use the diode function on your multimeter to check the zener diode at VR1 and the 1N4004 diode. The zener diode can be difficult to source. See below for recommendation.
+
|n/a
−
 
+
|n/a
−
'''Gold Standard for Working or NON-WORKING board'''
+
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
| +5VDC
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
:It doesn’t make too much sense trying to trace down the exact problem and replacing only the bad components on a NON-WORKING board. Better to replace every possible bad component and start fresh. To ensure long life and proper operation of a working board, in ADDITION TO THE ABOVE, it is recommended that the components below are replaced regardless. Below is a list of components that effect the HV and +5 volt logic circuits on the SDB. Replace them all ! * The Stern Revision J board is rather different, & a component list for that board follows. It can be identified by the extensive silk screening of each component and its function as seen in the 4th photo above, and by the HUGE 2 Watt and (2) large 1 Watt resistors. It is most often found on late date Stern games like Flight 2000 or Viper, etc.
+
|-
 +
|J3-5
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|Key
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
'''Component replacement list for Bally AS2518-16 or -22 and Stern SDU100 SDBs, except * revision J'''
+
|-
 +
|J3-6
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|PB3
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
  
−
'''Resistors'''
+
|-
−
*R51 22k ohm 1/2Watt
+
|J3-7
−
*R52 390 ohm 1/4 Watt
+
|n/a
−
*R54 8.2k ohm 1/4 Watt
+
|n/a
−
*R55 1.2k ohm 1/4 Watt
+
|n/a
−
*R56 82k ohm 1/2 Watt
+
|n/a
−
*R35 100k ohm 1 Watt
+
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|PB2
 +
|n/a
 +
|n/a
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
===Stern Sound Boards===
 +
====Stern SB-100 Sound Board====
 +
[[File:YT.png]] A demonstration of the sounds made by a fully populated SB-100 driven by "Nugent" ROMs can be found [https://youtu.be/iul4a1cGXO8 here].
 +
[[File:Stern SB-100 Sound1.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 1st Generation]]
 +
[[File:SternSB-100Schematics.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 1st Generation - Schematics]]<br>
 +
The first generation SB-100 sound board was used on the earliest Stern games with electronic sound.  These boards were fully populated, because in addition to electronic sounds, there was a (simulated) chimes option (typically dipswitch setting 23 on M-100 MPU boards).  Although they will have higher pitched sounds, the first generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M-100 MPU board and electronic sounds. With some [[Bally/Stern#Adjusting_the_Sound_Quality_on_a_Stern_SB-100_board|modifications]], this board can be made to sound like the lower pitched 3rd generation board.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Stern_SB-100_Sound2.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 2nd Generation (less populated)]]<br>
 +
The second generation SB-100 sound board was used on Stern games with electronic sound and no chime sound option (typically dipswitch setting 23 on M-100 MPU boards).  Due to the lack of the optional chime sounds option, this board is less populated.  Although they will have higher pitched sounds, the second generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M-100 MPU board and electronic sounds, which did not use the chime option.  With some [[Bally/Stern#Adjusting_the_Sound_Quality_on_a_Stern_SB-100_board|modifications]], this board can be made to sound like the lower pitched third generation board.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
'''Diodes'''
+
[[File:Stern SB-100 C-1 Ver 3.JPG|left|thumb|300px|Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 3rd Generation (C-1 - less populated)]]
−
*CR21 1N4004 400PIV 1 amp or better (1N4007, etc.)
+
[[File:SternSB100C1.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Another image of the Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 3rd Generation (C-1 - less populated)]]<br>
−
*VR1 Zener diode 1N5275A 140 volts, 1 Watt.  Can Sub NTE 5099A
+
The third generation SB-100 sound board was used on some of the last Stern M-100 games with electronic sound and no chime sound option. Like the second generation board, due to the lack of the optional chime sounds, this board is less populated.  The difference with this board and the second generation board is that the component markings and through holes have been removed where components are no longer used.  Although they will have lower pitched sounds, the third generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M-100 MPU board, which did not use the chime option.  This board also shipped in the "standard" green PCB variety.  This board is easily identified by the large "C-1" notation.  Some test points are located in different positions compared to the first two generations, and TP8 has been deleted.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
'''Transistors'''
+
<center>
−
*Q21 2N3584 250volts, 2 amp, TO-66 NPN
+
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption="Differences Found Between Different Versions of SB-100 Sound Board">
−
*Q22&23         2N3440 250 volts 1 amp TO-39 NPN
+
File:Stern SB-100 Full Pop Reset Line 74107 Front No Pullup.jpg|<center><b>Front side of 1st gen board in vicinity of 74107</b></center>
−
*Q20 LM323k (original 78H05KC or LAS1405)
+
File:Stern SB-100 Full Pop Reset Line 74107 Front Pullup.jpg|<center><b>Modification found on /RESET line of 1st gen board</b></center>
 +
File:Stern SB-100 Full Pop Reset Line 74107 Back.jpg|<center><b>Back side of 1st gen board in vicinity of incoming /RESET line and 74107</b></center>
 +
File:Stern SB-100 Less Pop Reset Front.jpg|<center><b>Front side of 2nd gen board in vicinity of 74107.  Note the addition of a 47Kohm resistor and 3.3uF 6v tantalum capacitor</b></center>
 +
File:Stern SB-100 Less Pop Reset Line 74107 Back.jpg|<center><b>Back side Modification found on /RESET line of 2nd gen board.  Unless J1 pin 25 is removed from the board, this will tie the /RESET line to the +5v.</b></center>
 +
File:Stern SB-100 Early J1 Header Pin25.jpg|<center><b>Back side of 2nd gen board in vicinity of incoming /RESET line (J1 pin 25)</b></center>
 +
File:Stern SB-100 C-1 Reset Line 74107 Front.jpg|<center><b>Front side of 3rd gen (C-1) board in vicinity of 74107.  Note that service bulletin 11 has been implemented into the design of the board by this time.  R93 (47Kohm 1/4W resistor) and C56 (3.3uF 6v tantalum cap) are not in the earlier boards original design, and are possibly not notated on the schematics.</b></center>
 +
File:Stern SB-100 C-1 Reset Line 74107 Back.jpg|<center><b>Back side of 3rd gen board in vicinity of where incoming /RESET line used to be.  +5V trace is directly tied to the top of R93.</b></center>
 +
File:Stern SB-100 C-1 J1 Header Pin25.jpg|<center><b>Back side of 3rd gen board in vicinity of incoming /RESET line (J1 pin 25).  The /RESET line is no longer used on the board.</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
  
−
'''Capacitors'''
+
====Stern SB-300 Sound Board====
−
*C27&28         .01 uf 400 vdc metal polyester capacitor
+
[[File:Stern_SB-300_Sound.JPG|left|thumb|180px|Stern SB-300 Sound Board]]
 +
The Stern SB-300 sound board was used in all games which used the M-200 MPU board.  The SB-300 is interfaced to the MPU board via the 34 pin J5 connector located at the top of the board.
  
−
*RT1 25k ohm potentiometer (2 types) a 15mm  black one, Piher Part# PT15LH06-253A2020 or a 6mm blue one  BournsPart#3306P-1-253
+
Note that the sound board only uses pins 1-32 on its J1 connection.  Some ribbon cables used were 2 - 16 pin connections, while others were 2 - 17 pin connections, or a combination of the two.
  
−
'''Stern SDU100 revision J'''
+
Make certain that pin 34 of the sound board is not connected to the MPU.  Pin 34 on J1 of the sound board and pin 34 on J5 of the MPU board is the /IRQ signal.  This signal is never used by the sound board.  However, if it is connected to the MPU board from the sound board, it can sometimes cause the MPU to lock up or hang.  Either bend pin 34 of J1 on the sound board away from the connector (if it is even connected), or snip the pin off completely.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
*R35 100k ohm 1 Watt
+
=====Stern VSU-100 Speech Board=====
−
*R51 33k ohm 2 Watt
+
[[File:Stern_VSU-100.JPG|left|thumb|180px|Stern VSU-100 Speech Board]]
−
*R52 390 ohm 1/4 W
+
[[File:Stern Speech and Sound.JPG|right|thumb|180px|The Stern sound board and speech boards shown installed in a game]]<br><br>
−
*R53 2.4k ohm 1/4 W
+
The Stern VSU-100 speech board was used as a complimentary board to the SB-300 sound board. In other words, Stern never designed a sound board which was capable of both sound and speech. The speech synthesis is based on the S14001A speech chip. They are pricey, but still available.
−
*R54 8.2k ohm 1/4 W
+
<br clear=all>
−
*R55 1.2k ohm 1/4 W
 
−
*R56 82k ohm 1/2 Watt
 
−
*R73 3.3 ohm 1/4 W
 
−
*R74 470 ohm 1/4 W
 
−
*R75 100k ohm 1 Watt
 
−
*CR22 1N4004 or better
 
−
*Q24 2N3904 Transistor
 
  
−
Other diodes, transistors and capacitors as above for AS2518-18
+
===Speakers===
 +
All Bally -35 and -133 games use a speaker, Bally -17 games do not.  In some cases, games use more than one speaker.  The early games use a very small, xxx ohm, low wattage speaker in the bottom of the cabinet.
  
−
====Modify the Display Fuse holder====
+
[[File:Hot Hand Speaker.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Typical M-100 speaker from a Hot Hand.  Note that the volume control is missing from this unit.]]
−
[[file:Fuse_adaptor.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Fuse adapter for the SDB allowing use of a common fuse]]<br><br><br>
+
[[File:Seawitch Speaker.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Typical M-200 speaker from a Seawitch]]<br>
−
The display fuse on the Solenoid Driver board is a difficult to find and expensive type 8AG 3/16 amp fast blow. It would be best when rebuilding the SDB to replace the fuse holder with new clips and convert it to a more commonly available 3AG type. The original value of 3/16 amp can be substituted with a more common 1/4 amp without worry of over fusing the circuit, due to inherent variations of tolerance by the manufacturer.<br clear=all>
+
With the exception of the first four Stern M-100 games, which shipped with a 4-bar chime box, all others use a speaker. And most of them have the speaker mounted on a board, aimed at the coin door. The speaker is a 6-1/2", low wattage speaker, but has an odd impedance of 6.4 ohms.
  
−
All that needs to be done is;
+
The Stern M-200 games use a single speaker in the lower cabinet. It is a 6-1/2", 8 ohm, low wattage (some are marked 8W) speaker.
−
*bend up or clip off the upper solder lead of the clip
 
−
*move the TOP fuse holder up one hole
 
−
*solder a 20 ga. wire from the base of the clip back down to the lower hole.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
Be careful not to solder the clips with the inner "ears" facing in the wrong direction, or you will need to re-do your work. It may be helpful to put an old 3AG fuse in the clips to aid in spacing, assure that the "ears" are positioned correctly, and hold the clips in place while soldering. See the photo above. Of course, an inline fuse holder can also be used instead, but looks less professional.
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
===Bally 6-Digit Displays===
+
===Stern MAA-100 ROM Board===
−
This section will help you understand and repair your Bally 6-digit displays. The information is focused on the AS-2518-21 display. Since the AS-2518-15 display is interchangeable with the "-21" display, everything mentioned here will apply to both displays. 7-digit displays behave the same too, so this information will be helpful for those too. The only real difference is an additional digit enable signal, and some more electronics on the board to drive the 7th digit.
+
For the first Stern solid state game, Pinball, a ROM board was initially used. It was also used in Stingray, as Stingray has the same ROM set as Pinball.
  
−
If you could care less how they work, but are looking for information on how to repair them, then jump to the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Repairing_Bally.2FStern_Displays Repairing Bally Displays] article below. We'll also show you some ideas on how to keep your displays working properly.  
+
This board was mounted to the backbox and a harness connected the board to the MPU board at the top connector J5.  
  
−
 
+
<gallery heights=250 widths=250>
−
[[File:B-disp6.jpg|center]]
+
File:Stern Pinball ROM Board.JPG|Stern MAA-100 ROM Board
−
A healthy Bally 6-Digit Display
+
file:Stern-maa-100-board.jpg|Stern MAA-100 ROM Board installed
 +
file:Stern-stingray-backbox-maa-100-board.jpg|Stern MAA-100 ROM Board installed in Stingray
 +
</gallery><br clear=all>
  
 +
===Jumper/ROM Info===
 +
Jumpers are small zero ohm resistors or pieces of bare or insulated wire used to connect various points of an MPU board together to allow the board to utilize varying sizes and types of ROM/EPROM chips.  Many of the logic gate chips on the MPU boards are used to steer address signals to the proper pins on the various U1-U6 chip sockets.  If you have changed the jumpers and you cannot make the board boot with known good working roms, it is possible you have an addressing problem caused by one of the logic gate support chips.  Always double check your jumper work by following the trace or schematic to the <b>next</b> point after the jumper; i.e. do not just measure continuity across the jumper.  Go to the next point where the jumper connects and test between those points.
  
−
Examples off a Bally AS-2518-21 6-digit display, and a Bally AS-258-15 6-digit display:
+
Be careful soldering to the pads, as they can be fragile.  It is best to remove all the solder from the pad and insert the jumper fully into the via rather than just solder to the top.  Soldering the jumper top and bottom will help with any cracked vias.  Solder the jumpers to the top of the board where the jumper silk screening is printed rather than the back so that you can easily spot what type of rom chips the board is jumpered for.
  
−
[[File:B-disp15.jpg|200px|center|thumb]] [[File:B-disp21.jpg|200px|center|thumb]]
+
All software for Bally/Stern boards can be reformatted into a 2x2732 configuration.  It helps to understand how the original software is formatted to understand how to combine and pad the software to get different formats.  Any board jumpered to take 2x2732 has its address ranges of U2 as $1000-$17FF (lower half) $5000-$57FF (upper half).  The U6 ranges are $1800-$1FFF (lower half) and $5800-$5FFF (upper half).
  
−
You can see that the two displays are a little different in the way the components are laid out. Regardless of the differences in appearance, they both perform the same function and are interchangeable with each other The original display (at least the one mentioned in my Power Play Owner's Manual) is the "-21". The two shown here were upgraded with 1/2 watt 100K ohm resistors. A modification that you should do on all your displays too.
+
If the game was originally 4x2716, U1=$1000-$17FF, U2=$5000-$57FF, U5=$1800-$1FFF, and U6=$5800-$5FFF.  Thus, to combine this setup to work on a 2x2732 configuration, you would combine U1+U2 into U2.732 and U5+U6 into U6.732 using either your burner software, or the DOS command '''copy /b u1.716 + u2.716 u2.732'''.
  
−
Here are some Stern displays that will work in place of the two above:
+
If you need to use 2716 eproms but don't have any, you can use a 2732 eprom in its place by duplicating the data.  Either use the DOS command '''copy /b rom.716 + rom.716 rom.732''' or load the data twice into your burner; depending on its software, you might change the buffer address by $800 (so the duplicate data loads after the first segment) or it might ask if you want to append the data to the existing buffer.
  
−
[[File:B-disps1.jpg|200px|center|thumb]]  [[File:B-disps2.jpg|200px|center|thumb]]
+
==== Bally AS-2518-35 or AS-2518-133 Jumper Info====
−
 
+
The following is a list or various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Bally -35 or -133 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts. The letter "E" has been eliminated on every jumper number after the first to save space. '''9332''' ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory and can be replaced with 2532 EPROMS without any modification to the original board, provided that board has not been altered.
−
 
+
 
−
 
+
{| class="wikitable"
−
====How the displays work====
+
|-
−
 
+
! U1 ROM
−
The way the display circuitry works is really quite interesting. Although the human eye can not detect it, at any given moment, each display is only showing one digit at a time. The program that runs on the machine's computer is changing the digits so fast that you can not tell. If you were to film the displays and play the film back in slow motion, you'd see all the displays showing the same digit, and it cycles through all six, from left to right. It just cycles so fast that your brain thinks the whole display is lit all the time.
+
! U2 ROM
−
 
+
! U6 ROM
−
As you can see, each display has six digits, and if you look closely, you can see that each digit consists of seven segments. This is important stuff to know in order to understand how these displays work, and most important, how to fix them cheaply!
+
! MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order
−
 
+
! Jumper CUTS
−
If you study the display's schematic, you can see that there are 4 main "parts" of a display assembly: The glass display itself, and the display driver consisting of the input decoder, six digit driver circuits, and seven segment driver circuits. There is one digit driver circuit for each of the six digits, and one segment driver circuit for each segment of a digit. How the actual glass display does what it does in order to light various digits and segments is beyond the scope of this tutorial, so we'll ignore that. The decoder takes a number from 0 - 9 as input and determines which segments need to be energized in order to represent this number. The digit drivers are responsible for applying the proper voltages to the proper pins of the display to tell it which digit to light. The segment drivers are responsible for applying the proper voltage to the proper pins of the display to tell it which segments of the digit to light. It is the MPU's job to supply the proper signals to the display driver to make it do all this stuff.
+
|-
−
 
+
| '''9316'''
−
The decoder is a small integrated circuit (MC14543LE) called a "BCD To Seven Segment Decoder". This decoder happens to be a "latching" decoder, which means it latches on to it's inputs and keeps them, even if they are no longer applied, until the decoder is told to release them (blanked). The decoder also has an input called a strobe. When strobed, the decoder will read it's four inputs and latch on to them. A strobe signal is usually a quick off/on/off pulse. There is also an input for the blanking signal.
+
| '''9316'''
−
 
+
| '''9316'''
−
BCD stands for Binary Coded Decimal and is a fancy term for storing a number from 0 - 9 in a half byte of storage (four bits). Using BDC encoding, each byte of memory can store two digits. Anyway, the input of the decoder is a BCD number from 0 - 9, and the output of the decoder is seven signals. These seven signals are either on or off, and relate to the seven segments of a digit. Each of the seven output signals go to a MPS-A42 transistor, which is part of a circuit called a segment driver. This transistor acts like a switch to turn the segments on or off. The outputs of the seven segment drivers go to the seven segment pins of the display glass. So this is how the computer tells the display driver which segments to light. The MPU has a four-signal data path that goes to all five displays (or seven for Six Million Dollar Man). These four signals provide the 4-bit input into the decoder, and remember, all four signals go to ALL of the displays. Below is a diagram of how the segments are labeled, and a truth table showing the 15 possible inputs and outputs to the decoder. For those of you that don't know about binary arithmetic, you can get 15 possible combinations of on/off with 4 digits. (e.g., "0000", "0001", "0010", ..., "0111", "1111"). This is also how you count in binary, or base-2. Remember that the display driver is only interested in 10 of the 15 possible combinations, the ones that represent the numbers 0 - 9, or "0000" - "1001". Any other input combinations will result in unpredictable outputs from the decoder, so we label these as "don't cares", since we know they will never happen under normal circumstances.
+
| '''E1-4,2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-19,31-32,33-34'''
−
 
+
|
−
[[File:Dispchart.jpg|center]]
+
|-
−
 
+
| '''2716'''
−
The digit driver circuit consists of an MPS-A42 transistor and a 2N5401 transistor connected in a circuit that acts as a switch. Normally with no input signal applied, the switch is off, keeping the high voltage supplied by the HV Regulator away from the display. There are 6 digit signals provided by the MPU, one for each digit. The MPU will enable one signal at a time, telling the display driver which digit to operate. This signal will then turn on the "switch" for the digit, allowing the high voltage a connection to the proper pins of the glass display to energize the desired digit. These signals from the MPU are simply 6 wires and the MPU will activate one of them at a time. Like the segment signals, the six digit signals go to all of the displays in a daisy chain fashion.
+
| '''74S474'''
−
 
+
| '''74S474'''
−
OK, before I explain how the computer makes all this work, let's sum up:
+
| '''E1-3,2-6,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-18,31-32,33-35'''
−
A display driver has four inputs from the MPU. The first is a collection of six signals used to tell the display driver which digit to energize (six digits in the display, six digit signals). Only one of these signals are on at a time. The second input is a collection of four signals that tell the display driver which number to display, in the form of segments. These four signals provide a binary pattern that is interpreted as a binary number from 0 to 9. The third input is a strobe signal, which tells the decoder to read it's inputs, and the fourth signal is a blanking signal, which tells the decoder to turn off all it's outputs. Also, but not mentioned above, are various voltages from the power supply and high-voltage regulator. Each display driver is supplied with +5VDC from the 5-volt regulator on the solenoid driver board. This is used to drive the logic circuits of the decoder. There is also +190VDC* applied to the display driver from the high-voltage regulator on the solenoid board. Finally there is a connection to ground, which brings all the voltages to the proper reference point.
+
|
−
 
+
|-
−
* For brand new displays, this voltage should be at +190VDC in order to "burn in" the display. Once a display has become used, this voltage may be backed down to +170VDC, which will work just fine and will help prolong the life of the display.
+
|  
−
 
+
| '''2532 or 9332'''
−
====How The Computer Controls The Display====
+
| '''2532 or 9332'''
−
 
+
| '''E4-12, 7-8, 10-11, 13a-14, 16a-34, 29-33, 31-32'''
−
OK, so now you know how the display works. The next thing to understand is how the computer in your pinball machine operates the displays. For this article, we'll referring to the AS-2518-17 Bally MPU Module, but all this also holds true for the "-35" MPU module as well. And again, I'm only referring to the Bally AS-2518-21 and AS-2518-15 Display Drivers. The Stern style display drivers operate the same, and the six digit stern drivers are 100% swappable with the Bally displays. There are a few minor differences between the seven digit varieties of displays preventing a direct swap without modifications.
+
| '''E13-15'''
−
 
+
|-
−
As mentioned above, there are four sets of signal lines that go from the MPU module to the display driver modules. The first set is the BCD data set which carry the display segment BCD data to all the displays on 4 wires. They leave the MPU module (A4) at connector J1, pins 25-28 and visit every display driver module at connector J1 and pins 16-19 (D4 - D0). The next set of signals is the digit enable signals. These 6 wires carry signals to all the display driver modules with information telling it which digit to light. The third set of signals are 5 latch strobe signals. There is one separate signal for each display driver, and it is the signal that tells the driver's decoder to read the decoder inputs, and output the proper segment signals. The final signal is a single single that goes to all the display drivers called Display Blanking. The signal tells the display driver's decoder to turn off all segment outputs, thereby blanking out the display, or turning all segments off. Below is a diagram of all the connections between the MPU module and the display driver modules that have to do what we're talking about. 
+
|
−
 
+
| '''2532 or 9332'''
−
[[File:B-dispdiag.jpg|center]]
+
| '''2732'''
−
 
+
| '''E4-12,7-8,10-11,13a-14,16a-29,31-32,33-35'''
−
 
+
| '''E13-15'''
−
Once the machine has been turned on and has booted up, the processor on the MPU module is continuously running a program that is stored in the module's ROM chip(s). This program is responsible for controlling the game by reading all the switches, lighting all the lamps, activating all the solenoids, and controlling the displays. The program keeps a lot of information in RAM and uses this information to keep track of scores, switches, etc. An interrupt is a term for a section of computer program that interrupts the "main" program in order to execute a smaller program, sometimes referred to as a "service routine". We won't get into just how this actually happens, just be aware that the main program of a computer may be interrupted at any given time. And to make things even more complicated, interrupts themselves can be interrupted by higher priority interrupt service routines. There may be several different interrupts that occur in a pinball's computer program, but the one we want to study is the one that controls the displays. Keep in mind what was mentioned above, that at any given instant, only one digit is lit on any display. This is called multiplexing.
+
|-
−
 
+
|
−
320 times a second, or once every 3-1/4 milliseconds (thousands of a second), the CPU is interrupted to service the displays. In memory, the CPU keeps track of all the information it needs to operate all the displays. This information includes a counter used to indicate which display digit is active, the BCD data for all the displays, etc. Here's what the display service routine actually does:
+
| '''9316'''
−
 
+
| '''9316'''
−
'''Determine which digit was updated last time''' - The MPU looks at the digit counter and adds 1 to this value. If the new value is 7, it is changes to 1, then the new value is stored back into memory. Let's assume the new value is 4, so we're going to update the 4th digit.
+
| '''E2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-19,31-32,33-34'''
−
 
+
|-
−
'''Blank out all the displays''' - The CPU raises the signal on the Blanking Line which causes all displays to go blank (the blanking signal tells all the decoders to turn off their segment outputs).
+
| '''9316'''
−
 
+
| '''9316'''
−
'''Fetch the BCD data from memory''' - The BCD data for the first display, 4th digit is fetched from memory.
+
| '''2716'''
−
 
+
| '''E1-4,2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13a-19,16a-18,31-32,33-35'''
−
'''Send the BCD data to the display driver''' - This BCD data is placed on the BCD data bus and display #1 is strobed. This will cause the display's decoder to latch onto the input signals (store them for future use).
+
| '''E13-15'''
−
 
+
|-
−
''''Do it again''' - The previous two steps are repeated for the second, third, fourth, and fifth display.
+
|
−
 
+
| '''2716'''
−
'''Enable the digit''' - The MPU then enables the 4th digit and disables the other 5 digits by raising and lowering signals on the Digit Enable lines.
+
| '''9316'''
−
 
+
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-19,31-32,33-34'''
−
'''Finally, turn the digit on''' - The MPU lowers the signal on the Blanking Line, which causes the all of the decoders to output their proper segment signals and the 4th digit on each display is displayed.
+
| '''E13-15'''
−
 
 
−
'''All done!''' - The interrupt service routine then exits and control returns to the main program
 
−
 
 
−
As you can see, the display interrupt service routine only handled 1 digit for all displays. Every time it is invoked, it will process the "next" digit, resetting the counter back to 1 when necessary. The process of updating 1 digit for all displays takes about 500 microseconds, or 1/2 of a millisecond, to complete. Pretty cool, eh?
 
−
 
 
−
So, lets do some math. It takes 1/2 millisecond to update one digit, and since there are 6 digits, it takes 3 milliseconds to display all six digits. Since the interrupt runs 320 times a second, and it takes 6 interrupts to update the entire display, dividing 320 by 6 means that the displays are completely updated just over 54 times every second. That's fast enough to fool your eyes and brain into thinking the display is completely lit all the time. Also, since the interrupt routine takes about 1/2 millisecond to run, and it runs 320 times every second, that means about 160 milliseconds of every second of time is spent updating the displays, which is about 16 percent of the time.
 
−
 
 
−
===Rectifier Boards===
 
−
 
 
−
====How To Hook Up a Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board====
 
−
 
 
−
Often folks buy a new or used rectifier board and then when they get it, they realize that they have to hook it back up to the old wiring harness. If this is you, and you forgot to take notes or pictures before you removed your old board, then here you go. The photo below shows an original [http://stevekulpa.net/pinrepair/as-2518-18a.jpg AS-2518-18] rectifier board connected to a factory wiring harness. As far as I know, the wire colors are the same for ALL AS-2518-18 applications.
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:As-2518-18-wiring.jpg|center]]
 
−
 
 
−
 
 
−
Key:
 
−
 
 
−
E1 - Red 18 AWG - Transformer Lug 5 - Primary AC Hot
 
−
 
 
−
E2 - Yellow 18 AWG - Transformer Lug 1 - Primary Neutral
 
−
 
 
−
E3 - Red 20 AWG - Transformer Lug 2 - Solenoid Bus Hot
 
−
 
 
−
E4 - White/Red 20 AWG - Transformer Lug 6 - Solenoid Bus Neutral
 
−
 
 
−
E5 - Green 20 AWG - Transformer Lug 8 - Display High Voltage Hot
 
−
 
 
−
E6 - White/Green 20 AWG - Transformer Lug 10 - Display High Voltage Neutral
 
−
 
 
−
E7 - Blue 18 AWG (2 wires) - Transformer Lug 17 - GI Bus Hot
 
−
 
 
−
E8 - Black 18 AWG (2 wires) - Transformer Lug 18 - GI Bus Neutral
 
−
 
 
−
E9 - Orange 18 AWG - Transformer Lug 13 - Controlled Lamp Bus Hot
 
−
 
 
−
E10 - Green 18 AWG - Transformer Lug 14 - Controlled Lamp Bus Neutral
 
−
 
 
−
E11 - White 20 AWG - Transformer Lug 15 - 12V Input for 5-Volt Regulator Hot
 
−
 
 
−
E12 - White/Black 20 AWG - Transformer Lug 16 - 12V Input for 5-Volt Regulator Neutral
 
−
 
 
−
AWG = American Wire Gauge (18 = fat, 20 = skinny)
 
−
 
 
−
"E" solder pads are labeled on the top side of the circuit board
 
−
 
 
−
 
 
−
 
 
−
====How To Hook Up a Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board====
 
−
 
 
−
As Steve mentioned above when you replace or remove and reattach your rectifier board you need to know how to hook it back up. I have done this with a lot of Stern pins and made myself a chart for quick and easy reference when re-attaching the rectifier to the transformer. I figured it may be useful to others as well.
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:Stern-ta100-16b-6.png]]
 
−
 
 
−
===Bally Auxiliary Lamp Driver Boards===
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:BLY aux lamp2.JPG|left|thumb|200px|Bally AS-2518-52 Aux. Lamp Driver Board]]
 
−
 
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:BLY aux lamp3.JPG|left|thumb|200px|Bally AS-2518-43 Aux. Lamp Driver Board (Midway A084-91614-A000 pictured - same as AS-2518-43)]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
 
 
−
===Bally Sound Boards===
 
−
====Bally AS-2518-32 Sound Board====
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:As-2518-32.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-32 Sound Board]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
 
 
−
=====-32 Sound Board ROMs & Jumper Settings=====
 
−
{| class="wikitable"
 
−
!Game
 
−
!U3 ROM
 
−
!Jumper Settings
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Lost World || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B&nbsp;
+
|
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35'''
 +
| '''E13-15'''
 +
|-
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35'''
 +
| '''E13-15'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Six Million Dollar Man|| &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B&nbsp;
+
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''9316'''
 +
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-19,31-32,33-34'''
 +
| '''E13-15'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Playboy || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B&nbsp;
+
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''2532 or 9332'''
 +
| '''E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-34,29-33,31-32'''
 +
| '''E13-15'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Voltan Escapes Cosmic Doom || ? || ?
+
|
 +
| '''2732'''
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''E4-13a, 7-8, 10-11, 12-GND, 16a-18, 31-32, 33-35'''
 +
| '''E13-15'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Supersonic || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B&nbsp;
+
|
−
|}
+
| '''2732'''
−
Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.
+
| '''2732'''
−
<br clear=all>
+
| '''E4-13a, 7-8, 10-11, 12-GND, 16a-29, 31-32, 33-35'''
−
 
+
| '''E13-15'''
−
====Bally AS-2518-50 Sound Board====
+
|-
−
[[File:As-2518-50.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-50 Sound Board]]
+
! '''U1 ROM'''
−
<br clear=all>
+
! '''U2 ROM'''
 +
! '''U6 ROM'''
 +
! '''MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order'''
 +
! '''Jumper CUTS'''
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
The -133 board was used in 3 games: Baby Pacman, Granny and the Gators, and Grand Slam.  If you want to use a -133 board in a game that uses another board, you must change CR52 (a 1n4148 diode near J4) to a 2k resistor.  If you want to use a -35 board in a game that requires a -133, change resistor R113 to a 1n4148 diode, banded end farthest away from J4. <b>IMPORTANT:</b> Before plugging the board in, measure the voltage at the MPU J4-15.  If it is 6.3 VAC, this game requires a -133. If it is 43 VDC, the game requires the -35 configuration.
  
−
=====-50 Sound Board ROM & Jumper Settings=====
+
==== Bally AS-2518-17 and Stern MPU-100 Jumper Info====
 +
The following is a list of various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Bally -17 or STERN MPU-100 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts.  The letter "E" has been eliminated on every jumper number after the first to save space.  '''9316'' ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory. The "-DASH" between numbers means to jump one point to the other, e.g. E 1-2 means jump E1 to E2. Some jumps are very close to each other, others are much farther away. Some cuts in the traces must also be made on the solder or component side of the MPU board, so read the NOTES section below carefully.
 +
 
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
{| class="wikitable"
−
!Game
 
−
!U3 ROM
 
−
!Jumper Settings
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Star Trek || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, D&nbsp;
+
! U1 ROM
 +
! U2 ROM
 +
! U6 ROM
 +
! MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order
 +
! Jumper CUTS
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Kiss || &nbsp;E729-18&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, D&nbsp;
+
|  
 +
| '''9316'''
 +
| '''9316'''
 +
| '''E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10'''
 +
| '''Usual Factory Setting'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Paragon || &nbsp;E729-51&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
+
|
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''9316'''
 +
| '''E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10'''
 +
| '''Cut & Jumper See Note A'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Harlem Globetrotters || &nbsp;E729-51&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
+
|  
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| '''E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10'''
 +
| '''Cut & Jumper See Note B'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Dolly Parton || &nbsp;E729-51&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
+
|
−
|}
+
| '''2732'''
−
Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.
+
| '''NONE'''
−
<br clear=all>
+
| '''E6-7, 8-10'''
−
 
+
| '''Cut & Jumper See Note C'''
−
====Bally AS-2518-51 Sound Board====
 
−
[[File:As-2518-51.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-51 Sound Board]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
 
 
−
=====-51 Sound Board ROMs & Jumper Settings=====
 
−
Jumper A is used when U3 is a 6802 and U10 (6810) is not used.<br>
 
−
Jumper B is used when U3 is a 6808 and U10 (6810) is used.<br>
 
−
Jumper C is used when U4 is 2K in size (9316B or 2716).<br>
 
−
Jumper D is used when U4 is 4K in size (2532 or 4732).<br>
 
−
 
 
−
 
 
−
{| class="wikitable"
 
−
!Game
 
−
!U4 ROM
 
−
!Jumper Settings
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Future Spa || &nbsp;E781-2, E781-5 (or sub with E781-13)&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
+
|
 +
| '''2732'''
 +
| '''2732'''
 +
| '''E1-2, 3-5, 6-7, 8-10'''
 +
| '''Cut & Jumper See Note D'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Nitro Groundshaker || &nbsp;E776-14, E776-15&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, D&nbsp;
+
| '''74S474'''
 +
| '''74S474'''
 +
| '''2716 or 9316'''
 +
| '''1-2, 3-4, 8-9 Factory Setting for Freedom or Night Rider ONLY'''
 +
|  
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Silverball Mania || &nbsp;E786-8, E786-11&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
+
| '''2716'''
 +
|  
 +
| '''2716'''
 +
| ''' See Note E'''
 +
| '''Freedom/Night Rider ONLY'''
 
|-
 
|-
−
| Space Invaders || &nbsp;E792-2, E792-7&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
+
! '''U1 ROM'''
−
|-
+
! '''U2 ROM'''
−
| Rolling Stones || &nbsp;E796-11, E796-19&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
+
! '''U6 ROM'''
−
|-
+
! '''MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order'''
−
| Mystic || &nbsp;E798-2, E798-5&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
+
! '''Jumper CUTS'''
−
|-
 
−
| Hot Doggin || &nbsp;E809-2, E809-7&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Viking || &nbsp;E802-2, E802-7&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Skateball || &nbsp;E823-2, E823-14&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Frontier || &nbsp;E819-2, E819-9&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Speakeasy || &nbsp;E877-1&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, C&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| BMX || &nbsp;E888-02&nbsp; || &nbsp;B, D&nbsp;
 
 
|}
 
|}
−
Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
====Sounds Plus Sound Board (AS-2518-56)====
+
=====Notes to above Cut and Jumper Section=====
−
The Sounds Plus board was only used in Xenon and very early Flash Gordons. The Sounds Plus board has a daughter card called the Vocalizer that contains the roms and circuitry needed to generate speech.
+
If a jumper combination is '''NOT''' listed in the chart above, this jumper must be cut or removed! Double check your work and verify that someone else has not modified the board before you begin the process. '''Incorrect''' jumper combinations will prevent the MPU from booting, showing a locked on MPU LED. This is a very common fault.
 +
 
 +
'''Note A, 2716 in U2, 9316 in U6'''<br>
 +
In addition to the jumpers listed above, you must also make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.
  
−
====Squawk & Talk Sound Board====
+
#On the component side of the -17 or MPU-100 board, cut the trace that runs from U2 pin 18 to U3 pin 18. Do this where the trace passes between sockets U2 and U3.
−
[[File:S&T AS-2518-61.JPG| 180px | left |thumb | AS-2518-61 Squawk & Talk Sound Board]]<br>
+
#On the solder side of the -17 board, run a jumper from U2 pin 18, to U17 pin 11.<br>
−
The Squawk & Talk (S&T) sound board was the first to offer sound and speech in one board to Bally games.  It is probably the most intuitive sound board Bally offered too.  Similar to the Bally MPU boards, the S&T uses an LED flashing system during board initialization. There are at least 3 variations of the board: -61, -61a, and -61b.<br>
+
#On the solder side of the -17 board, cut the trace going to U2 pin 21.<br>
 +
#On the solder side of the -17 board, run a jumper from U2 pin 21 to U2 pin 24.<br>
  
−
[[File:As-2518-61a.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | AS-2518-61a Squawk & Talk Sound Board]]
+
'''Note B, 2716 in U2, 2716 in U6'''<br>
−
<br clear=all>
+
In addition to the jumpers listed above, you must also make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.
  
−
=====Squawk & Talk Jumper Settings=====
+
Make sure jumpers E1-2, E3-4, E6-7, and E8-10 are in place.
−
The first table below, is a list of the Squawk & Talk jumper settings by game as specified in the 1982 Bally / Midway parts catalog. These jumpers reflect the original ROM configuration when the game was released. If you've changed your sound ROMs to 2716s or from 2532s to 2732s, see the second table below.<br>
+
Note: Trace cuts were completed using a "ball" cutter in a Dremel. The "cut" is marked with a black marker.
  
−
*If using a 6808 CPU chip, install L, remove K
+
'''Reference the left picture.'''
−
*If using a 6802 CPU chip, install K, remove L
 
−
*The 5 EE jumpers must be installed when the AY-8912 chip is not present.<br>
 
  
−
{| class="wikitable"
+
#On the solder side of the -17 board, cut the trace leading to U18 pin 4.
−
!Game
+
#On the solder side of the -17 board, connect U18 pin 5 to the trace you cut leading to U18 pin 4. It's easiest to run the wire from U18 pin 5 to the via ("trace thru dot") that connects to this trace.<br>
−
!Jumper Settings
 
−
|-
 
−
| Flash Gordon      || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Eight Ball Deluxe  || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Fireball II        || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Embryon            || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Fathom            || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Medusa            || &nbsp;C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, EE, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|- 
 
−
| Elektra            || &nbsp;C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, EE, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Centaur            || &nbsp;C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, EE, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Rapid Fire        || &nbsp;C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, EE, CC, M&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, W, Y, U, AA, H, DD, N, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Spectrum          || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, H, DD, N, EE, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| Vector            || &nbsp;C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, L OR K&nbsp;
 
−
|}
 
−
Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
{| class="wikitable"
+
'''Reference the center picture.'''
−
!ROM Size/Location
+
<ol start="3">
−
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;U2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+
<li>
−
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;U3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+
On the solder side of the board, cut the trace leading to U2 pin 21.
−
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;U4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+
</li>
−
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;U5&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 
−
|-
 
−
| &nbsp;2716 || <center>D, P</center> || <center>Q, T</center> || <center>U, X</center> || <center>Y, BB</center>
 
−
|-
 
−
| &nbsp;2532 || <center>D, G</center> || <center>Q, S</center> || <center>U, W</center> || <center>Y, AA</center>
 
−
|-
 
−
| &nbsp;2732 || <center>F, P</center> || <center>R, T</center> || <center>V, X</center> || <center>Z, BB</center>
 
−
|}
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
====Say It Again Board====
+
<li>
−
[[File:AS-2518-81-2.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-81 Say It Again Sound Board]]<br>
+
On the solder side of the board, jumper from U2 pin 21 to U2 pin 24.
 +
</li>
 +
</ol>
  
−
The "Say It Again" sound board is a board used to add reverb to a Squawk & Talk sound and speech board. This board was only used on Centaur and Centaur II.
+
'''Reference the right picture.'''
−
<br clear=all>
+
<ol start="5">
−
====Cheap Squeak Sound Board====
+
<li>
 +
On the solder side of the board, cut the trace leading to U6 pin 21.
 +
</li>
 +
 
 +
<li>
 +
On the solder side of the board, jumper from U6 pin 21 to U6 pin 24.
 +
</li>
 +
</ol>
  
−
[[File:CheapSqueak.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board A080-91603-XXXX or Midway P/N M-051-00114-XXXX]]
+
<center>
−
<br clear=all>
+
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption="Note B Cuts and Jumpers">
 +
File:U18Jumper.jpg|<center><b>Solder Side Trace Reroute at U18 and "through hole" to U2, pin 18</b></center>
 +
File:U2Jumper.jpg|<center><b>U2 Cut and Jumper from pin 21 to pin 24</b></center>
 +
File:U6Jumper.jpg|<center><b>U6 Cut and Jumper from pin 21 to pin 24</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
  
−
LED boot up flash sequence is four flashes. Two quick, pause, two more quick. After boot up the LED seams to go on and off when sounds are playing or idle.
+
'''Note C, Single 2732 at U2''' for the early 1977 to 1979 games.<br>
 +
This modification combines the two original 9316 ROMs at U2 and U6 into a single 2732 EPROM at location U2. This configuration works for the following Bally games. This modification should also work for early Stern games with two original 9316 ROMs at U2 and U6.
  
−
{| width =60%, border=1, align="center", class="wikitable"
+
*Black Jack
−
|-
+
*Bobby Orr Power Play
−
! colspan=2 align='center' | Cheap Squeak is used in the following games:
+
*Eight Ball
−
|-
+
*Evel Knievel
−
| colspan=2 align='center' | Black Pyramid  -  Cybernaut  -  Fireball Classic
+
*Mata Hari
−
|-
+
*Night Rider
−
| colspan=2 align='center' | King Of Steel  -  Spy Hunter  -  X's & O's
+
 
−
|-
+
To combine the original 9316 (or 2716) U2 and U6 ROM images into a single 2732 U2 image, use this DOS command:
−
| colspan=2 align='center' |----------------------------------------------
 
−
|-
 
−
! align='center' | EPROM Configuration
 
−
! align='center' | Jumpers Connected
 
−
|-
 
−
| U3&U4 using 2532s
 
−
| J6, J9, J12
 
−
|-
 
−
| U3&U4 using 2732s
 
−
| J7, J10, J11
 
−
|-
 
−
| U3 ONLY using 2764 (may not work in all games)
 
−
| J2, J4, J7, J11
 
−
|}
 
  
−
====Turbo Cheap Squeak Sound Board====
+
:COPY /B U2ROM.716 + U6ROM.716 U2COMBO.732
  
−
====Sounds Deluxe Sound Board====
+
Make sure to use the "/b" switch when copying, as shown above. The command combines the two files into a single binary file.
  
−
====Bally Sound Board Pinouts====
+
Add the following cuts and jumpers to the -17 MPU to use this configuration.
−
{| class="wikitable"
 
−
!Pin Connection
 
−
!AS-2518-32
 
−
!AS-2518-50
 
−
!AS-2518-51
 
−
!AS-2518-56<br>Sounds Plus
 
−
!AS-2518-61<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!AS-2518-61A<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!AS-2518-61B<BR>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!A080-91603-C000<BR>Cheap Squeak
 
−
!A080-91855-C000<br>Turbo Cheap Squeak
 
−
!A084-91864-C000<br>Sounds Deluxe
 
  
−
|-
+
'''Reference the left picture.'''
−
|J1-1
 
−
|Sol. Address A
 
−
|Sol. Address A
 
−
|Sol. Address A
 
−
|Sol. Address A
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select 0
 
−
|Sound Select 0
 
  
 +
#Verify that jumper E6-E7 is in place. E8-E10 can remain in place or can be removed (i.e. "don't care") as it is only useful when U3 and/or U4 ROMs are used. Remove '''any''' jumpers at E1, E2, E3, E4, or E5. That is, remove all jumpers except E6-E7.
  
−
|-
+
'''Reference the center picture.'''
−
|J1-2
 
−
|Sol. Address B
 
  
−
|Sol. Address B
+
<ol start="2">
−
|Sol. Address B
+
<li>
−
|Sol. Address B
+
On the solder side of the -17 board, find U18 pin 4. Cut the trace close to pin 4 as shown below. In the picture below, a blue/black dot marks the cut made with a Dremel "ball cutter" bit.  
−
|Sound Select
+
</li>
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
  
−
|Sound Select 1
+
<li>
−
|Sound Select 1
+
Scrape the solder mask from the trace leading to pin 4.
 +
</li>
  
 +
<li>
 +
Tack solder one end of a short length of wire (or resistor lead) to the bare trace. Solder the other end to U18 pin 5. This connects U18 pin 5 to U2 pin 18. You may choose an alternate method. Just be sure to connect the trace from the "trace through hole dot" to U18 pin 5.
 +
</li>
 +
</ol>
  
−
|-
+
'''Reference the right picture.'''
−
|J1-3
 
−
|Sol. Address C
 
−
|Sol. Address C
 
−
|Sol. Address C
 
−
|Sol. Address C
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select 2
 
−
|Sound Select 2
 
  
 +
<ol start="5">
 +
<li>
 +
On the component side of the board, locate U2 pin 13 (top right hand corner of U2). Slightly higher and to the right is a via "trace through hole" with a trace running straight down. Cut this trace to separate the via from the trace. In the picture below, the blue/black dot marks the location to cut.
 +
</li>
  
−
|-
+
<li>
−
|J1-4
+
On the component side, jumper from the via noted in step 5 to pad E4 (red wire in picture below). This connects jumper pad E4 to U2 pin 21.
−
|Sol. Address D
+
</li>
−
|Sol. Address D
 
−
|Sol. Address D
 
−
|Sol. Address D
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select 3
 
−
|Sound Select 3
 
  
 +
<li>
 +
On the component side, notice the large '''GROUND''' trace that runs down the board just to the right of the ROM sockets. To the right of the U2 ROM socket, scrape the solder mask from this large ground trace and add a jumper wire from this trace to pad E3 (orange wire/white tracer in picture below. Note that in this instance, U3 was also removed and the ground pad of U3 is used as a jumper point). This connects U2 pin 20 to ground.
 +
</li>
  
−
|-
+
<li>
−
|J1-5
+
Use your multimeter to verify that continuity exists between jumpered points.
−
| +5VDC
+
</li>
−
| +5VDC
+
</ol>
−
| +5VDC
 
−
| +5VDC
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
  
−
|-
+
<center>
−
|J1-6
+
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption="Note C Cuts and Jumpers">
−
|Ground
+
File:-17MPUFrontAnnotated.jpg|<center><b>Component Side Jumper Locations</b></center>
−
|Ground
+
File:-17BackSideJumperAnnotated.jpg|<center><b>Solder Side Trace Reroute at U18 and "through hole" to U2, pin 18</b></center>
−
|Ground
+
File:-17FrontSideJumpers.jpg|<center><b>Component Side Cut (black dot) and Jumper Detail</b></center>
−
|Ground
+
</gallery>
−
|Ground
+
</center>
−
|Ground
 
−
|Ground
 
−
|Logic Ground
 
−
|Logic Ground
 
−
|Logic Ground
 
  
−
|-
+
'''Note D, 2732 in both U2 & U6'''<br>
−
|J1-7
+
This is a popular modification to the -17 & MPU-100 board as it maximizes the ROM space available and can accommodate almost every game from this period.
−
|N/U
+
−
|N/U
+
In addition to the jumpers listed above,make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.
−
|N/U
+
Make sure jumpers E1-2, E3-5, E6-7, and E8-10 are in place, & NO others are connected. It is a good idea to continuity check each of the necessary jumpers, '''BEFORE''' beginning work.
−
|N/U
 
−
|Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC)
 
−
|Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC)
 
−
|Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC)
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
  
−
|-
+
#On the solder side of the -17 or MPU-100 board, cut the trace that runs to U2 pin 21.<br>
−
|J1-8
+
#On the component side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U2 pin 18. Best place to do this is where the trace passes between sockets U2 and U3. Use a mulitmeter continuity setting to figure out the trace to cut, and mark it with a Sharpie to avoid confusion and cutting of the wrong trace.<br>
−
|Sol. Bank Select
+
#On the solder side, jump a wire from U2 pin 18 to U2 pin 12.<br>
−
|Sol. Bank Select
+
#On the solder side, jump a wire from U2 pin 21 to U9 (6800CPU) pin 24.<br>
−
|Sound Interrupt
+
#On the solder side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U6 pin 21.<br>
−
|Sound Interrupt
+
#On the component side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U6 pin 18. A good place to do this is where the trace passes between sockets U6 and U5. Use your DMM's continuity setting to figure out the trace to cut.<br>
−
|Sound Interrupt
+
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U6 pin 18 to U6 pin 12.
−
|Sound Interrupt
+
#On the solder side, jump a wire from U6 pin 21 to U2 pin 21 (this connects both U2 and U6 pins 21 to U9 pin 24).<br>
−
|Sound Interrupt
+
#On the solder side, cut the trace that runs to U17 pin 2.<br>
−
|Sound Interrupt
+
#On the solder side, cut the trace that runs to U18 pin 4.<br>
−
|Sound Interrupt
+
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U17 pin 2 to U18 pin 4.
−
|Sound Interrupt
 
  
−
|-
+
<center>
−
|J1-9
+
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2 caption="Note D Cuts and Jumpers">
−
| +43V
+
File:Bally -17 2732 Convert Front.JPG|<center><b>Component side cut locations</b></center>
−
| +43V
+
File:Bally -17 2732 Convert Back.JPG|<center><b>Solder side cuts and added jumpers</b></center>
−
|N/U
+
</gallery>
−
|N/U
+
</center>
−
|N/U
+
 
−
|N/U
+
'''Note E  Bally Freedom and Night Rider ONLY'''<br>
−
|N/U
+
These notes are for the Bally Freedom and Night Rider ROMs
−
|N/U
+
 
−
|N/U
+
These two games used an unique set of ROMs at U1 and U2. These are 74S474 or 7461
−
|N/U
+
(512 byte) ROMs at U1 and U2, and a 9316 or 2716 (2K byte) at U6. According to Williams tech, they state that a U1 2716 EPROM and a U6 2716 EPROM can be used for these two games.If using a -17 or M-100 MPU with a U1 2716 EPROM and U6 2716 EPROM, there are some cuts and jumps required:
  
−
|-
+
#Cut the trace from U1 pin 18 to U2 pin 18.<br>
−
|J1-10
+
#Cut the trace from U1 pin 21 to pad E7.<br>
−
|N/U
+
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 21 to U1 pin 24.<br>
−
|N/U
+
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 18 to U17 pin 11.<br>
−
| +12V Unregulated
+
#On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 22 to U2 pin 22.<br>
−
| +12V Unregulated
 
−
| +12V Unregulated
 
−
| +12V Unregulated
 
−
| +12V Unregulated
 
−
| +12V Unregulated
 
−
| +14V Unregulated
 
−
| +14V Unregulated
 
  
 +
==== Stern MPU-200 Jumper Info====
 +
The following is a list or various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Stern MPU-200 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts. '''9316''' ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory, used on the first few MPU-200 games.  Stern switched almost exclusively to a 4x2716 configuration sometime around Seawitch through the end of their run and various boards have been spotted in the wild that seem factory with 2x2732 configuration.  Galaxy has been spotted with an oddball 3x9316 + 1x2716 configuration.
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 
|-
 
|-
−
|J1-11
+
! &nbsp;U1 ROM&nbsp;
−
|Key
+
! &nbsp;U2 ROM&nbsp;
−
|Key
+
! &nbsp;U5 ROM&nbsp;
−
|Key
+
! &nbsp;U6 ROM&nbsp;
−
|Key
+
! &nbsp;MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order
−
|Key
+
! &nbsp;Jumper CUTS&nbsp;
−
|Key
 
−
|Key
 
−
|Key
 
−
|Key
 
−
|Key
 
−
 
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|J1-12
+
| '''&nbsp;(empty)'''
−
|Sol. Address E
+
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
−
|Sol. Address E
+
| '''&nbsp;(empty)'''
−
|Sol. Address E
+
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
−
|Sol. Address E
+
| '''&nbsp;2-3, 5-7, 13-14, 16-18, 23-25, 32-33, 34-35'''
−
|Sound Select
+
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|Sound Select
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
 
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|J1-13
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
|N/U
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
|N/U
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
|N/U (Spare Address Line)
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
|N/U
+
| '''&nbsp;1-5, 2-6, 8-9, 12-13, 16-18, 19-20, 22-25, 26-28, 29-31, 32-33, 34-35'''
−
(Spare Address Line)
+
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|Earth Ground
 
−
|Earth Ground
 
−
|Earth Ground
 
−
 
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|J1-14
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
|Ground
+
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
−
|Ground
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
|Ground
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
|N/U
+
| '''&nbsp;2-3, 5-7, 8-9, 12-13, 16-18, 19-20, 22-25, 26-28, 29-31, 32-33, 34-35&nbsp;'''
−
(Ground)
+
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
−
|Ground
 
−
|Ground
 
−
|Ground
 
−
|Logic Ground
 
−
|Logic Ground
 
−
|Logic Ground
 
−
 
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|J1-15
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
| +43V Return (Sol. Ground)
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
| +43V Return (Sol. Ground)
+
| '''&nbsp;9316'''
−
| +12V Unregulated Return
+
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
−
| +12V Unregulated Return
+
| '''&nbsp;1-5, 2-6, 8-9, 13-14, 16-18, 19-20, 23-25, 26-28, 29-31, 32-33'''
−
| +12V Unregulated Return
+
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
−
| +12V Unregulated Return
 
−
| +12V Unregulated Return
 
−
| +12V Unregulated Return
 
−
| +14V Unregulated Return
 
−
| +14V Unregulated Return
 
−
 
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|J1-16
+
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;2716'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;2-3, 5-7, 9-10, 13-14, 16-18, 19-21, 23-25, 27-28, 29-30, 32-33, 34-35&nbsp;'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
−
| +12V Unregulated Return
 
−
| +12V Unregulated Return
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
 
 
−
 
 
 
|-
 
|-
−
|J1-17
+
| '''&nbsp;(empty)'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;2732'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;(empty)'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;2732'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;1-2, 4-5, 13-15, 16-18, 24-25, 32-33, 34-35'''
−
|n/a
+
| '''&nbsp;All others'''
−
| +12V Unregulated
+
|-
−
| +12V Unregulated
+
! '''&nbsp;U1 ROM'''
−
|n/a
+
! '''&nbsp;U2 ROM'''
−
|n/a
+
! '''&nbsp;U5 ROM'''
−
|n/a
+
! '''&nbsp;U6 ROM'''
 +
! '''&nbsp;MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order'''
 +
! '''&nbsp;Jumper CUTS&nbsp;'''
 +
|}
  
−
|-
+
To combine the 9316 or 2716 ROM images into the proper format 2732 images, use the following MSDOS commands.
−
|J1-18
+
*copy /b U1ROM.716 + U2ROM.716 U2Combined.732
−
|n/a
+
*copy /b U5ROM.716 + U6ROM.716 U6Combined.732
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
Note that jumpers 32-33 and 34-35 control the clock speed of the MPU-200.  To use an MPU-200 in a game that normally uses a Bally -17/-35 or a Stern MPU-100 board, you should remove these jumpers as they will cause the software to run faster.  This isn't really a problem, but timings of sound events might be affected as well as other unforeseen consequences.  If using a MPU-200 board in a Bally -17 or -35 or a Stern MPU-100 game, you should remove the 5101 RAM at U13, as it will not be accessed directly. (Some of the software depends on the values being read with the lower nibble high (1111 or $F) - they will load the byte expecting $1f for instance and if you leave U13 in, it will return either random values or more likely $10). If the chip or socket at U13 is bad, it can be ignored.  This however is a waste of resources, as the MPU-200 board is hard to find and cannot be substituted by a -17 or -35 board [http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=415 without some modifications].<br>
−
!Pin Connection
 
−
!AS-2518-32
 
−
!AS-2518-50
 
−
!AS-2518-51
 
−
!AS-2518-56<br>Sounds Plus
 
−
!AS-2518-61<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!AS-2518-61A<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!AS-2518-61B<BR>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!A080-91603-C000<BR>Cheap Squeak
 
−
!A080-91855-C000<br>Turbo Cheap Squeak
 
−
!A084-91864-C000<br>Sounds Deluxe
 
  
−
|-
+
Additionally, if all 32 dip switches are turned off upon boot with an MPU-200, it will flash seven times and jump into self-test mode.  This will toggle alternatively every solenoid, flashing controlled lamps, and test each digit on the score displays.  At least one DIP switch must be on to avoid this.  This is not a function of the board itself, just the software used.  For example, if you put earlier stern software (previous to Meteor) or any Bally software in an MPU-200, it will not enter self-test with all dips off.
−
|J2-1
 
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker -  
 
−
|Speaker -
 
−
|Speaker -
 
−
|Speaker -
 
−
|Speaker -
 
−
|Speaker -
 
−
|Speaker Return
 
−
|Speaker Return
 
  
 +
* To down-grade the MPU-200 to the older MPU-100, remove jumpers 32-33 and 34-35 (used on all Stern MPU-200 EPROM configurations), and remove the 5101 RAM chip from U13.
  
−
|-
+
* The MPU-200, when jumpered for four 2716 EPROMS (U1,U2,U5,U6), will run Bally games using three 2716 (U1,U2,U6) ERPOMs.
−
|J2-2
+
 
−
|Speaker -
+
* On a MPU-200 configured for four 2716 EPROMs (U1,U2,U5,U6), to run Bally games using two 2716 (U2,U6) EPROMs, change the MPU-200's jumpers E13-14 to E13-15, and E5-7 to E1-5.
−
|Speaker -
+
<br clear=all>
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker +
 
−
|Speaker +
 
  
−
|-
+
====Using a single 2732 at U2 in a -35 MPU for Bally games originally released with a -17 MPU====
−
|J2-3
+
 
−
|n/a
+
Bally games released with a -17 MPU can use a single 2732 at position U2 of a -35 MPU.
−
|n/a
+
 
−
|n/a
+
This includes the following games:
−
|n/a
+
*Black Jack
−
|Key
+
*Bobby Orr Power Play
−
|Key
+
*Bow and Arrow
−
|Key
+
*Eight Ball
−
|n/a
+
*Evel Knievel
−
|Key
+
*Freedom
−
|n/a
+
*Mata Hari
 +
*Night Rider
  
−
|-
+
Install the following jumpers.<br>
−
|J2-4
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|Remote Volume Return
 
−
|Remote Volume Return
 
−
|Remote Volume Return
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
E12-Gnd ...connects U2 /CE ~ Pin 18 to Gnd<br>
−
|J2-5
+
E11-E15 and E35-E16A ...connects U2 /OE ~ Pin 20 to /VUA-O2-A12<br>
−
|n/a
+
E13-E9 ...connects U2 A11 ~ Pin 21 to A11<br>
−
|n/a
+
E7-E8  ...connects U2 A9 ~ Pin 22 to A9<br>
−
|n/a
+
 
−
|n/a
+
Remove any jumper at E13A above U1.<br>
−
|Speech Volume
+
Other jumpers should be irrelevant.<br>
−
|Speech Volume
+
 
−
|Speech Volume
+
The original 2716 ROM images can be be combined using the DOS command:
−
|n/a
+
copy /b U2.716+U6.716 CombinedU2.732
−
|N/U
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
====Bally -35 2764 EPROM Conversion====
−
|J2-6
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|Sound Volume
 
−
|Sound Volume
 
−
|Sound Volume
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|N/U
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
These instructions will convert a Bally -35 MPU to use a single 2764 EPROM. Colors in the table will match the wire colors in the example photos.
−
|J2-7
+
<br>
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|Reverb Audio In
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="1" width="680">
−
|J2-8
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<th colspan="3" bgcolor="C0C0C0">Bally -35 MPU - 2764 EPROM Conversion Instructions</th>
−
|n/a
+
</tr>
−
|n/a
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<td align=center valign=top width=20 colspan=2>1.</td>
−
|n/a
+
<td>Remove any PROMs or EPROMs from U1, U2, U3, U4, U5 and U6.</td>
−
|n/a
+
</tr>
−
|Shield Ground
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<td align=center valign=top width=20 colspan=2>2.</td>
−
|n/a
+
<td>
−
|n/a
+
Bend out pins 1, 2, 27, and 28 on a 28 pin EPROM socket so we can solder wires to the pins and install it in socket U2 on the MPU. Pin 26 of the EPROM is not connected. I usually remove this pin from the socket but you can just bend it out and not connect anything to it.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20 colspan=2>3.</td>
 +
<td>
 +
Ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E4, E13, E13a, E11, E9, E12, and E35.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20 colspan=2>4.</td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect jumpers E7 and E8. This connects EPROM A9 to CPU A9.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>5.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="red"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect EPROM socket pins 1, 27 and 28 to +5V. I chose to use pin 24 of U3 as the source for +5V. This wire is RED in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>6.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="E89DB1"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect EPROM pin 2 (A12) to jumper location E4 (A14). This wire is pink in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>7.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="black"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect jumper location E12 to ground. I use the large ground trace closest to E12. That will connect EPROM CE to ground. This wire is BLACK in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>8.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="green"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect jumper positions E9 and E13A. That will connect EPROM A11 to CPU A11. This wire is green in my examples.<br>
 +
NOTE: There is an error on the Bally schematic which shows jumper position E13 connected in common with E13A. This is an error and E13A will need to be used for this step. 
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>9.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="yellow"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect jumper position E11 to the side of resistor R14 closest to the EPROM socket. That will connect EPROM OE to the output of the gate at U17A. That is an enable that combines CPU A12, VMA and phase 2 of the clock creating an enable that we can use for our EPROM. We could also use jumper location E35 but R14 is closer and makes for a cleaner installation, in my opinion. This wire is yellow in my examples. 
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
</table>
 +
<br>
 +
<gallery widths=200px heights=100px perrow=3 caption="Bally -35 2764 EPROM Conversion">
 +
File:PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 1.jpg
 +
File:PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 2.jpg
 +
File:PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 3.jpg
 +
File:PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 4.jpg
 +
File:PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 5.jpg
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
====Bally -17 And Stern MPU-100 2764 EPROM Conversion====
 +
These instructions will convert a Bally -17 or Stern MPU-100 MPU to use a single 2764 EPROM. Colors in the table will match the wire colors in the example photos.
  
−
|-
+
<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="1" width="680">
−
|J2-9
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<th colspan="3" bgcolor="C0C0C0">Bally -17 And Stern MPU-100 - 2764 EPROM Conversion Instructions</th>
−
|n/a
+
</tr>
−
|n/a
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<td align=center valign=top width=20 colspan=2>1.</td>
−
|n/a
+
<td>Remove any PROMs or EPROMs from U1, U2, U3, U4, U5 and U6.</td>
−
|n/a
+
</tr>
−
|Audio Out
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<td align=center valign=top width=20 colspan=2>2.</td>
−
|n/a
+
<td>
−
|n/a
+
Bend out pins 1, 2, 20, 23, 27, and 28 on a 28 pin EPROM socket so we can solder wires to the pins and install it in socket U2 on the MPU. Pin 26 of the EPROM is not connected. I usually remove this pin from the socket but you can just bend it out and not connect anything to it.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20 colspan=2>3.</td>
 +
<td>
 +
Ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E3, E4, and E8.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>4.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="red"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect EPROM socket pins 1, 27 and 28 to +5V. I chose to use pin 24 of U3 as the source for +5V. This wire is RED in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>5.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="E89DB1"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Next we need to connect EPROM A12 (pin 2) to CPU A14 (pin 24 of U9). The problem is that there are no jumper locations on the -17 and MPU-100 that are connected to A14 so we have to connect directly to pin 24 of the Motorola 6800 (U9). One option is to run the wire over the top of the board to the back (solder side) but I wanted to make my conversions look as clean as possible so I use pin 20 of U3 as a through hole to get to the other side of the board. So we connect pin 2 of the EPROM to pin 20 of U3 on the components side of the board then connect pin 20 of U3 to pin 24 of U9 on the solder side of the board. This makes for a clean looking conversion on the components side of the MPU. If you're going to use this method you need to ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E8. This wire is pink in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>6.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="black"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect EPROM pin 20 (CE) to ground. I like to use the large ground trace closest to the EPROM socket. This wire is black in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>7.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="yellow"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect jumper E3 to the side of resistor R14 closest to the EPROM socket. That will connect EPROM OE to the output of the gate at U17A. That is an enable that combines CPU A12, VMA and phase 2 of the clock creating an enable that we can use for our EPROM.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>8.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="green"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect EPROM pin 23 to jumper location E4. That will connect EPROM A11 to CPU A11. This wire is green in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
</table>
  
−
|-
+
<br>
−
|J2-10
+
<gallery widths=200px heights=100px perrow=3 caption="Bally -17 and Stern MPU-100 2764 EPROM Conversion">
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 1.jpg
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 2.jpg
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 3.jpg
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 4.jpg
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 5.jpg
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 6.jpg
−
|Shield Ground
+
</gallery>
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
====Stern MPU-200 2764 EPROM Conversion====
−
!Pin Connection
+
 
−
!AS-2518-32
+
These instructions will convert a Stern MPU-200 to use a single 2764 EPROM. Colors in the table will match the wire colors in the example photos.
−
!AS-2518-50
 
−
!AS-2518-51
 
−
!AS-2518-56<br>Sounds Plus
 
−
!AS-2518-61<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!AS-2518-61A<br>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!AS-2518-61B<BR>Squawk &amp; Talk
 
−
!A080-91603-C000<BR>Cheap Squeak
 
−
!A080-91855-C000<br>Turbo Cheap Squeak
 
−
!A084-91864-C000<br>Sounds Deluxe
 
  
−
|-
+
<b>NOTE:</b> You may need to first convert your board to use [[#Stern_MPU-200_Jumper_Info|two 2732 EPROM]]s before applying this conversion. If you leave the board configured for another rom setup; you may note the board will not flash the diag LED.
−
|J3-1
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|Ground
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="1" width="680">
−
|J3-2
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<th colspan="3" bgcolor="C0C0C0">Stern MPU-200 - 2764 EPROM Conversion Instructions</th>
−
|n/a
+
</tr>
−
|n/a
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<td align=center valign=top width=20 colspan=2>1.</td>
−
|n/a
+
<td>Remove any PROMs or EPROMs from U1, U2, U3, U4, U5 and U6.</td>
−
|n/a
+
</tr>
−
|Data
+
<tr>
−
|n/a
+
<td align=center valign=top width=20 colspan=2>2.</td>
−
|n/a
+
<td>
−
|n/a
+
Bend out pins 1, 27, and 28 on a 28 pin EPROM socket so we can solder wires to the pins and install it in socket '''U2''' on the MPU. Pin 26 of the EPROM is not connected. I usually remove this pin from the socket but you can just bend it out and not connect anything to it.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20 colspan=2>3.</td>
 +
<td>
 +
Ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E2, E4, E5, E6, E10, E17, and E18. 
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>4.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="red"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect EPROM socket pins 1, 27 and 28 to +5V. I chose to use pin 24 of U3 as the source for +5V. This wire is RED in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20>5.</td>
 +
<td width="5" bgcolor="E89DB1"></td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect EPROM pin 2 to jumper location E10. This wire is pink in my examples.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20 colspan=2>6.</td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect jumper location E5 to E4. 
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20 colspan=2>7.</td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect jumper location E17 to E18.
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td align=center width=20 colspan=2>8.</td>
 +
<td>
 +
Connect jumper location E2 to E6
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
 +
</table>
  
−
|-
+
<br>
−
|J3-3
+
<gallery widths=200px heights=100px perrow=3 caption="Stern MPU-200 2764 EPROM Conversion">
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki MPU 200 2764 conversion 1.jpg
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki MPU 200 2764 conversion 2.jpg
−
|n/a
+
File:PinWiki MPU 200 2764 conversion 3.jpg
−
|n/a
+
</gallery>
−
|n/a
+
 
−
|n/a
+
====Bally/Stern ROM Memory Map====
−
|Clock
+
 
−
|n/a
+
ROM images based on 2732 EPROMs are available on the net for all Bally and Stern machines so I'll give an example of the ROM memory map using these as the example. This is important to consider when doing single EPROM conversions because you will need to create a custom ROM image from original game code.
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
<table width=600 border=1 cellspacing="0" cellpadding="1">
−
|J3-4
+
<tr><th> ROM image</th><th> Memory Location (Hex)</th><th> Memory Location (Decimal)</th></tr>
−
|n/a
+
<tr><td>U2 First half:</td><td>$1000-$17FF</td><td>(Decimal: 4096-6143)</td></tr>
−
|n/a
+
<tr><td>U2 Second half:</td><td>$5000-$57FF</td><td>(Decimal: 20480-22527)</td></tr>
−
|n/a
+
<tr><td>U6 First half:</td><td>$1800-$1FFF</td><td>(Decimal: 6144-8191)</td></tr>
−
|n/a
+
<tr><td>U6 Second half:</td><td>$5800-$5FFF</td><td>(Decimal: 22528-24575)</td></tr>
−
|n/a
+
</table>
−
|n/a
 
−
| +5VDC
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
 
−
|J3-5
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|Key
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
====Creating A 2764 ROM Image From 2732/2532 ROM files====
−
|J3-6
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|PB3
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
  
−
|-
+
This is one way to create a 2764 EPROM image.
−
|J3-7
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|PB2
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|n/a
 
−
|}
 
  
−
===Stern Sound Boards===
+
<table border=1 border=1 cellspacing="0" cellpadding="1">
−
====Stern SB-100 Sound Board====
+
<tr><td>
  
−
[[File:Stern SB-100 Sound1.JPG|left|thumb|180px|Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 1st Version]]
+
<table width=700 border=0>
 +
<tr>
 +
<td width=5% valign=top>1.</td>
 +
<td>Download the game code. Most should be available from [http://www.ipdb.org/ ipdb.org].</td>
 +
</tr>
  
 +
<tr>
 +
<td valign=top>2.</td>
 +
<td>Download Oliver's Vector home ROM files [http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/p-vec2v05.zip here]. The archive will contain fsp.exe which we will use below to split the ROM images in half.</td>
 +
</tr>
  
−
[[File:Stern_SB-100_Sound2.JPG|left|thumb|180px|Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 2nd version (less populated)]]
+
<tr>
−
<br clear=all>
+
<td valign=top>3.</td>
 +
<td>Open a command (DOS) prompt and navigate to the directory where you unzipped the Vector home ROM file downloaded above. You will also want to have your 2732 game code images in this directory. What we are going to do is split the ROM images in half creating 4 new files. Here is the command syntax:
  
−
====Stern SB-300 Sound Board====
+
fsp U2_2732_image.bin U2_split
−
[[File:Stern_SB-300_Sound.JPG|left|thumb|180px|Stern SB-300 Sound Board]]
+
fsp U6_2732_image.bin U6_split
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
==Problems and Solutions==
+
Where U2_2732_image.bin and U6_2732_image.bin are the names of the U2 and U6 ROM images and U2_split and U6_split are the prefixes for the output files.  
−
===Powering up the first time===
 
−
Thanks to Bally's decision to modularize their system, there is a technique you can use to save yourself some headaches when you first power up a machine.  This method connects one section/board at a time and allows you to test each board thoroughly before moving onto the next so you can isolate any issues to one board.  This method concentrates on the -18, -49, and all stern games rectifier boards.  The -54 rectifier board on later Bally games would employ a slightly different technique.
 
  
−
Disconnect all connectors from the mpu, lamp, sound (if present) and solenoid driver boards.  Disconnect J1 and J3 from the rectifier board.  Leave J2 connected.  Check all the fuses for proper values on the rectifier board.  Power on the game, watching to see if any fuses blow.  Use a meter and test each test point on the rectifier board to ensure proper voltage is present (remember some of the voltages are AC).  Get the rectifier board working 100%.
+
We should now have files named  U2_split-0, U2_split-1, U6_split-0 and U6_split-1.  
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
  
−
Turn the game off and reconnect J3 to the solenoid driver board.  Connect J3 to the rectifier board as well.  Power on the game and repeat the voltage tests on all the test points on the rectifier and solenoid driver board. Investigate any suspect voltages and correct any faults found.  Keep in mind that the displays use both the high voltage and +5 voltage so it might be a good idea to remove the displays from the circuit, also.
+
<tr>
 +
<td valign=top>4.</td>
 +
<td>Now we can issue this command to create our image:
  
−
Once the solenoid driver board tests ok, connect J4 to the mpu board.  Do not reconnect any other connectors to any other boards at this point.  Power on the game; if all is well, you will see the mpu board start its LED flash sequence.  This is where the majority of repairs will take place; there's no point in hooking other boards up until you have a solid rectifier, solenoid driver/power regulator, mpu board combination working.
+
copy /b U2_split-0 + U6_split-0 + U2_split-1 + U6_split-1 2764_ROM_Image.bin
  
−
After/if the mpu board is booting, add the rest of the connectors back in.  When you add the playfield's connectors back in and power up, listen for any solenoids locking on at power-up.  Repair the solenoid circuits before proceeding if any do lock on.
+
The command above must be entered as one string.  
  
−
At each step in the chain, be sure to inspect and repair any and all connectors in the circuits. Often the connectors get tarnished and do not conduct well enough for reliable game operation. Do not try to clean or sand any suspect connectors - this is a temporary fix at best and only delays the inevitable task of replacement.
+
This will create a file called 2764_ROM_Image.bin. Burn that to your EPROM and you're ready to go!
 +
</td>
 +
</tr>
  
−
Using this method for powering up the game for the first time ensures that any issues you encounter will be isolated to the last piece you added in.  Diagnosing and repairing one board at a time is much simpler than multiples.
+
</table>
  
−
===Rectifier Board Issues===
+
</td></tr></table>
  
−
====-18, Stern Rectifier boards====
+
===Attract Mode Test Points===
−
The rectifier board takes the AC voltage from the transformer and uses bridge rectification to convert those voltages to DC.  No filtering is done on the rectifier board (that's the solenoid driver/power supply board's job).  Depending on the generation of board, there are varying amounts of discrete diodes or bridge rectifiers that produce the DC voltages needed.  Additionally, all of the circuits have a fuse for protection in the event of a short on this board.
 
  
−
Putting a meter on the test points across the top of the board will tell you if you're missing any voltages.  Refer to the schematics or the charts above to determine the proper voltages at each test point, and remember that some of the voltage outputs are AC volts. If there are any missing voltages investigate further to determine the cause. The main issues with the rectifier board are cracked header pins, bad bridges, poor fuse clips, and poor connections on through hole vias.
+
====Rectifier Board Test Point Values====
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
|+ Bally
 +
! scope="col" | Model
 +
! scope="col" | TP1
 +
! scope="col" | TP2
 +
! scope="col" | TP3
 +
! scope="col" | TP4
 +
! scope="col" | TP5
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-18 || +5.4 +/-.8VDC || +230 +/-27.4VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || 7.3 +/-.9VAC || +43 +/-5.4VDC
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-49 || +5.4 +/-.8VDC || +230 +/-27.4VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || 7.3 +/-.9VAC || +43 +/-5.4VDC
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-54 ||  || ||  ||  ||
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-132 ||  ||  || || ||
 +
|}
 +
<em>Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3</em>
  
−
If you do nothing else to your power supply, replace the header pins and the connectors that connect to them.  The pins are usually burnt beyond usage as are the connector pins.  (Often, operators chopped the harness connectors off and soldered the wires directly to the pins as a "fix".)  You can get 10 amp header pins from various suppliers that are more robust than the original 7 amp versions.  Often just this change alone will fix many lamp "wavering" problems you see on games with lots of feature lamps.
+
{|class="wikitable"
 +
|+ Stern
 +
! scope="col" | Model
 +
! scope="col" | TP1
 +
! scope="col" | TP2
 +
! scope="col" | TP3
 +
! scope="col" | TP4
 +
! scope="col" | TP5
 +
|-
 +
|TA-100 || +5.4VDC || +230VDC || +11.9VDC || 7.3VAC || +43VDC
 +
|}
  
−
When you replace the header pins consider prying up the plastic insulator piece slightly that keeps the pins in place so you can solder to the top and bottom of each pin.  This technique will cure any problems with vias you have and obviate the need for jumper wires that accomplish the same thing. After soldering you can push the insulator piece back down.
+
====MPU Test Point Values====
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
! scope="col" | Model
 +
! scope="col" | TP1
 +
! scope="col" | TP2
 +
! scope="col" | TP3
 +
! scope="col" | TP4
 +
! scope="col" | TP5
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-17 || +5 +/-.25VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || +21.5 +/- 2.7VDC || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-35 || +5 +/-.25VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || +21.5 +/- 2.7VDC || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-133 || +5 +/-.25VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC || || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC
 +
|}
 +
<em>Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3</em>
  
−
Many times the fuse clips are weak or aren't making good contact with the fuses. If you inspect the fuse clips and they are tarnished at all, replace them. Any fuse rated at 4 amps or more use a high current fuse clip to eliminate issues in the future with that circuit. Lower value fuses can use lower current clips with no problem. Solder the fuse clips bottom and top where appropriate for maximal mechanical strength and conductivity.
+
====Lamp Driver Test Point Values====
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
! scope="col" | Model
 +
! scope="col" | Board Type
 +
! scope="col" | TP1
 +
! scope="col" | TP2
 +
! scope="col" | TP3
 +
! scope="col" | TP4
 +
! scope="col" | TP5
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-14 || Lamp Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || || ||
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-23 || Lamp Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || || ||
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-43 || Aux Lamp Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || || ||
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-52 || Aux Lamp Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || || ||
 +
|}
 +
<em>Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3</em>
  
−
It's a good idea to replace the discrete diode bridge for the high voltage score display with 1N4007 diodes mounted slightly off the board (about 1/4") so that air can circulate all around them. Solder the leads top and bottom where appropriate.  The power resistors should be replaced also with a slight air gap below them to help with cooling.  It is possible to approximately double the size of the power resistors (25 ohm to 47 ohm, 600 ohm to 1.3k ohm) to help with the heat dissipated [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_frm/thread/4f40e7f54348acd6/b428979e9f2597c3?lnk=gst&q=bally+rectifier+resistor+gpe#b428979e9f2597c3 Resistor/temperature discussion] although the final test results were not posted.   
+
====Solenoid Driver/Regulator Test Point Values====
−
 
+
{|class="wikitable"
−
If you need to replace any bridges, the original style VJ248 bridge can be replaced on the -18 board with a wire lead 25 or 35 amp bridge rectifier. The notch in the bridge is the positive + output; diagonally opposite this lead is the DC negative -. The other 2 leads are the AC inputs and are interchangeable. You have to bend the leads slightly to get them to fit in the smaller VJ248 solder pads. Mark the top of the board with the positive, negative, and AC leads so you don't solder the bridge off by mistake.
+
! scope="col" | Model
 +
! scope="col" | Board Type
 +
! scope="col" | TP1
 +
! scope="col" | TP2
 +
! scope="col" | TP3
 +
! scope="col" | TP4
 +
! scope="col" | TP5
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-16 || Solenoid Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || +5 +/-.25VDC || +230 +/-27.4VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-22 || Solenoid Driver || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || +5 +/-.25VDC || +230 +/-27.4VDC || +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-107 || Combo Lamp/Solenoid Driver ||  ||  ||  || ||
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-147 || Combo Lamp/Solenoid Driver || || || || ||
 +
|}
 +
<em>Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3</em>
  
−
If you decide to use the original style bridge, make sure it's not thicker than the other bridges in any other position.  The 3 bridges must lie flat against the heat sink slug for proper cooling.  The best way to install a replacement VJ248 of the same thickness is to put the bridge in place, then bolt the slug back onto all 3 bridges.  Solder the replacement bridge in place.  Reinstall the slug with heat sink compound (available at computer supply stores or Radio Shack) smeared in a single thin layer on each bridge surface, and the slug surfaces.  Use the least amount position to get a good even layer; more is not better.
+
====Sound Test Point Values====
−
 
+
{|class="wikitable"
−
After replacing any parts, test your work with only the J2 cabinet connector installed.  Never over fuse a circuit unless the manual for the game specifies; for instance, games with more than 2 flippers often recommend a larger fuse for the solenoid circuit to handle the additional load multiple flipper coils place on the fuse.
+
! scope="col" | Model
−
 
+
! scope="col" | Board Type
−
====-54 Rectifier board====
+
! scope="col" | TP1
−
 
+
! scope="col" | TP2
−
[[File:Bally Rectifier board -54 component side,jpg.jpg|300px|left|thumb]]
+
! scope="col" | TP3
−
[[File:Bally Rectifier board -54 solder side.jpg|300px|center|thumb]]
+
! scope="col" | TP4
−
 
+
! scope="col" | TP5
−
The weak link of this generation of rectifier board are the CR1-CR4 diodes (originally 1n4004, replace with 1n4007) and CR5-CR8 (6 amp at least 50v diodes). The original bridges are much hardier on this generation of rectifier board. If you do need to replace a bridge, the best way is to install it and bolt it onto the bottom mounting plate, then solder it into place. The bottom mounting plate acts as a heat sink for the bridges.
+
! scope="col" | TP6
−
 
+
! scope="col" | TP7
−
BR1 is for the feature lamps on the game, BR2 is for the solenoids. The bridge formed by CR5-CR8 forms the +5 vdc, and the one formed by CR1-CR4 supplies the high voltage for the displays. Mount the discrete diodes slightly off the board for better cooling. While not a large problem on this board, inspect the fuse clips as well to ensure they are not tarnished.
+
! scope="col" | TP8
−
 
+
! scope="col" | TP9
−
===MPU boot issues===
+
! scope="col" | TP10
−
Non-booting Bally/Stern MPU boards fall into a couple different categories.  If the board's LED is good and turns off at bootup, you're part of the way there. Refer to the flash sequence section to figure out where your issue lies to narrow down the problem area.
+
! scope="col" | TP11
−
 
+
! scope="col" | TP12
−
You must have a good set of roms in a game as well as a known good working 6800 cpu chip. Suspect any sockets that have a brown color or closed frame - often the spring tension on these sockets is poor necessitating replacement. Be very careful soldering on the mpu boards as the traces and pads are very fragile.
+
! scope="col" | TP13
−
 
+
|-
−
====LED locked on====
+
|AS-2518-32 || Sound || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || +12.5 +/-1.3VDC || +43 +/-5.4VDC || SOL RET || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
−
First off, ensure that there's not simply a problem with Q2 or the LED itself (i.e. the board isn't actually booting up anyway, just with the LED locked on). A logic probe on pin 18 of the U11 6821 PIA will tell you if the LED signal is changing.
+
|-
 +
|AS-2518-50 || Sound || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || +12.5 +/-1.3VDC || +43 +/-5.4VDC || SOL RET || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-51 || Sound || +11.9 +/- 2.5VDC || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || 0VDC (No Sound), 2.5+/-.2VDC (Sound) || +2.5 +/-.2VDC || 0VAC (No Sound), .35 +/-.1VAC (Sound) || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-56 || Sound || +11.9 +/- 2.5VDC || +5 +/-.25VDC || GND || 0VDC (No Sound), 2.5VDC (Sound) || +2.5 +/-.2VDC || 0VAC (No Sound), .35 +/-.1VAC (Sound) || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-57 || Vocalizer || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC || Analog Output || Digital Input || Speech Clock || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-61 || Sound || GND || +5 +/-.25VDC || +11.5VDC || -5VDC || Speech Volume Control Voltage || Sound Volume Control Voltage || AY-3-8912 Output || E || TMS5200 Output || VMA || TMS5200 Clock || Reset ||
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-81 || Reverb || GND ||  || || Audio In ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  || +11.9VDC || +12VDC || +4VDC to +8VDC
 +
|-
 +
|M-051-00114-B045 || Sound ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  || || ||
 +
|}
 +
<em>Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3</em><br><br>
  
−
You can short pins 40 and 39 momentarily on the cpu chip; after doing so, see if the LED goes off.  If it does, concentrate your efforts on repairing the reset circuit as it's not holding the reset low on powerup for the minimum required 50 milliseconds. If it doesn't, it's best to pull the board from the machine and put it on the bench, using the benchtop power supply details to keep working on the board outside the machine.
+
{|class="wikitable"
 +
! scope="col" | Model
 +
! scope="col" | Board Type
 +
! scope="col" | TP1
 +
! scope="col" | TP2
 +
! scope="col" | TP3
 +
! scope="col" | TP4
 +
! scope="col" | TP5
 +
! scope="col" | TP6
 +
! scope="col" | TP7
 +
! scope="col" | TP8
 +
! scope="col" | TP9
 +
|-
 +
|SB-100 || Sound || +5VDC || Frequency adjustment for R6 pot || Frequency adjustment for R2 pot || GND || Frequency adjustment for R13 pot || Vdd || +11.6VDC || +6.2VDC || +10VDC
 +
|-
 +
|SB-300 || Sound || Analog GND || +12VDC || +10VDC || +5VDC || Clock input for U18 || GND || N/A || N/A || N/A
 +
|}
  
−
Attach a logic probe to the output of Q5 - on power on, you should see this circuit start low and then go high approximately 50 milliseconds later. If it goes high immediately, at a minimum replace Q5, then Q1. If you see the reset circuit working properly, next put the probe on U9 pin 3, 36, and 37 to see if you get pulsing - these are all clock signals and you should see pulsing on all 3 pins.  If you have an oscilloscope you can visually see the signals, or even on a multimeter, the voltage will show between 2.5-2.9 volts.  If you see zero volts or 5 volts, your clock signal is bad.
+
====Display Module Test Point Values====
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
! scope="col" | Model
 +
! scope="col" | Board Type
 +
! scope="col" | TP1
 +
! scope="col" | TP2
 +
! scope="col" | TP3
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-15 || Display Module || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || GND
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-21 || Display Module || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || GND
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-58 || Display Module || +5 +/-.25VDC || +190 +/-5VDC || GND
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-121 || Vidiot ||  || ||
 +
|}
 +
<em>Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3</em>
  
−
Try removing U7, U8 (U8 and U13 on Stern MPU-200 boards) and U10 to see if the board will then turn off the LED. This tells you the roms are being read and that one of the RAM chips or U10 PIA might be bad. Narrowing down what causes the lock on determines your next steps.
+
===Fuse Values===
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
|+ Bally
 +
! scope="col" | Model
 +
! scope="col" | Board Type
 +
! scope="col" | F1
 +
! scope="col" | F2
 +
! scope="col" | F3
 +
! scope="col" | F4
 +
! scope="col" | F5
 +
! scope="col" | F6
 +
! scope="col" | F7
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-18 || Power Supply || 10A, 32V 3AG || 3/4A, 250V 3AG || 4A, 32V 3AG || 5A, 32V 3AG || 20A, 32V 3AG || 3A, 32V 3AG SB || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-22 || Solenoid Driver || 3/16A, 250V 8AG <br>(can be modified to accept 3AG) || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-49 || Power Supply || 20A, 32V 3AG || 3/4A, 250V 3AG || 4A, 32V 3AG || 5A, 32V 3AG || 20A, 32V 3AG || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-54 || Power Supply || 20A, 32V 3AG || 3/4A, 250V 3AG || 4A, 32V 3AG || 5A, 32V 3AG || 20A, 32V 3AG || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-107 || Combo Lamp/Solenoid Driver ||  N/A  ||  N/A ||  N/A  || N/A  || N/A  || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-132 || Power Supply ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  ||
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-147<sup>&dagger;</sup> || HV Lamp/Solenoid Combo || 3/16A, 250V 8AG <br>(can be modified to accept 3AG) || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|AS-2518-151<sup>&dagger;</sup> || Power Supply || 6A, 250V 3AG  || 5A, 250V 3AG  || 3/4A, 250V 3AG || 8A, 32V 3AG || 8A, 32V 3AG || 8A, 32V 3AG || 8A, 32V 3AG
 +
|}
 +
<em>Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3</em> except <sup>&dagger;</sup>Source: [http://ipdb.org/files/1024/Bally_1983_Gold_Ball_Manual.pdf Bally Midway GOLD BALL Manual]
  
−
At this point if the LED is still locked on take a known good Bally U6 chip, re-jumper the board for 2x2732 roms, and put it in U6.  If the mpu board now unlocks, add chips back in including a known good Bally U2 chip (or 2x2732 known good Stern chips) and you should get the unlock + 1st flash (Rom checksum ok).
+
Unless noted as slow blow (SB), all fuses are fast blow.
  
−
Still locked on?  After double checking all your jumper changes, roms, and rams in another board if possible, time to start suspecting other issues such as bad sockets, traces, or addressing chips.
+
{|class="wikitable"
−
 
+
|+ Stern
−
====Reset Circuit====
+
! scope="col" | Model
−
The purpose of the reset circuit is to ensure the +5 vdc is stable before allowing the system to start. At startup, the reset signal is held low via pull-down resistor R139 until the +12 vdc line rises above the zener diode VR1's value (8.2 or 9.1 volts depending on your board).  At this time, the input voltage threshold for the +5 regulator on the solenoid driver board has been met with some headroom.  Q1 starts conducting, turning on Q5, which provides the actual reset signal.  All of this happens in approximately 50 milliseconds.
+
! scope="col" | Board Type
 +
! scope="col" | F1
 +
! scope="col" | F2
 +
! scope="col" | F3
 +
! scope="col" | F4
 +
! scope="col" | F5
 +
! scope="col" | F6
 +
! scope="col" | F7
 +
|-
 +
|TA-100 || Power Supply || 10A, 32V 3AG || 3/4A, 250V 3AG, SB || 4A, 32V 3AG || 5A or 7A or 7.5A †, 250V 3AG, SB || 20A, 32V 3AG || 3A, 250V 3AG, SB || N/A
 +
|-
 +
|}
 +
Unless noted as slow blow (SB), all fuses are fast blow.
  
−
Most of the reset circuit is in the corrosion zone (lower left corner of the mpu board) and consists of most of the components commonly included in "repair kits".  If the reset circuit is not working, the LED will not turn off. If Q1 or Q5 fails, conducting all the time, the cpu chip will never come out of reset.
+
† Games that use a 16B-6 transformer & MPU-200 may take a 5A, 7A, or 7.5A fuse at F4, as specified on each individual game's schematics.
  
−
The reset circuit continuously monitors the +12 volt line; if it falls below VR1's threshold voltage, the game will reset.  If a Bally/Stern game is resetting, concentrate on why the +12 volts is dropping below 8.2/9.1 volts.  (VR1 sets the threshold at which the reset signal turns on, and also when it would turn off in a rebooting scenario.) 
+
{|class="wikitable"
 +
|+ Stern TA-100 F4 Fuse Values
 +
! scope="col" | Game
 +
! scope="col" | F4 Fuse Value
 +
|-
 +
| Ali || 5A
 +
|-
 +
| Big Game || 7.5A
 +
|-
 +
| Catacomb || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Cheetah || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Cue || ?
 +
|-
 +
| Dragonfist || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Flight 2000 || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Freefall || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Galaxy || 5A
 +
|-
 +
| Lightning || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Meteor || 5A
 +
|-
 +
| Nine Ball || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Orbitor 1 || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Quicksilver || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Seawitch || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Split Second || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Star Gazer || 7A
 +
|-
 +
| Viper || 7A
 +
|-
 +
|}
  
−
Note that Q1 and Q5 actually form a switching power regulator for the reset signal only.  The normal +5 supplied to the rest of the board is derived entirely from the solenoid driver board's regulator.  The reset signal regulated power is used to charge the battery, provide the reset signal, and to power the 5101 chip(s) on the board.  Normal +5 vdc from is blocked from entering the reset circuit by the 1N4148 diode CR7.  Diode CR5 (1N4148) blocks the battery voltage from powering the entire board via CR7.
+
<br><br>
  
−
====Sockets====
+
Various Bally and Stern games have under playfield fuses as well.  A common symptom of a blown playfield fuse is flippers operational, but no other on playfield solenoids work.  This is because the flippers draw too much current for the under playfield fuse (which is usually 1 or 2 amp), so they are connected before the fuse is in the circuit.  The main solenoid fuse on the rectifier board is used to protect against a shorted flipper coil instead.
−
this is a stub
+
 
−
====ROMs/ICs====
+
Sometimes a large under playfield mechanism will be fused separately.  Gottlieb did this often, but it is rarer in Bally/Stern games.  Examples of the games with auxiliary fuses under the playfield are Silverball Mania and Eight Ball Deluxe.  If you have a solenoid not working it doesn't hurt to check and see if it has a fuse, or if someone decided to add one in the past.  The under playfield solenoid fuse is a very small value, as for the most part Bally/Stern games are only able to fire one solenoid at a time.  This is a limitation of the hardware design, as the 4-to-16 decoder chip on the solenoid driver board can only decode one of 15 signals to fire an associated solenoid.
−
this is a stub
 
  
−
The Motorola part number equivalencies that appear on the top of U9, U10, and U11 are...
+
Some games do utilize the remaining 4 continuous drivers for a momentary coil. (One example is the ball walker area in Flight 2000 - the 2 kickers are activated by the continuous solenoids, for a momentary period).  You should identify which under playfield solenoids if any are used as such in your game and add a fuse to the activation (single, thinner wire) side of the coil to prevent a software glitch from locking on that coil.  Simply splice it inline with the single wire and use a 1 amp fast blow fuse to protect the driver circuit and coil in the case of a lockup. It would only be necessary to add the fuse for large loaded coils - relay or high resistance coils like on a flag gate or pop-up post coil relay do not place such a great load on the driving transistor that it is in any danger of burning out.
−
*SC44216P = 6800 microprocessor
 
−
*SC44067P = 6820 PIA
 
  
−
====Clock Signal====
+
Weak playfield solenoids can be caused by a weak connection on the under playfield fuse holder.  Remove the fuse and check for proper tension on the fuse clips for any tarnishing. It is best to just replace suspect fuse holders with new vs. attempting to clean the originals.
−
replacement 9602 board: http://www.homepin.com/9602.html
+
<br clear=all>
  
−
replace with a 6802: http://pinballeon.com/6802/e6802.htm
+
===Proprietary Numbers on Chips===
 +
Some Bally IC chips are marked with proprietary Bally part numbers, and no other markings are present.  Below is a list of some of the most common chips found on Bally boards, and the more commonly referred to chip.
 +
*620-28 - 6800 CPU chip
 +
*620-29 - 6820 PIA chip
 +
*620-30 - 6810 RAM chip
 +
*620-37 - 14514 / 4514 CMOS 4-Bit Latch / 4-to-16 Line Decoder chip
 +
*620-38 - 14534 / 4543 CMOS BCD-to-Seven-Segment Latch / Decoder / Driver chip
 +
*620-39 - 74L154 4 to 16 decoder chip (can sub with 74HCT154)
 +
*620-125 - 6808 CPU chip
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
<WIP>
 
  
−
====How to make a Benchtop power supply for the MPU board====
+
===Flippers===
 +
====Identification of Different Flipper Assemblies====
 +
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=225px heights=300px perrow=4 caption="Bally & Stern Flipper Assemblies">
 +
File:BallyStarTrekFlipper.jpg|<center><b>Early Bally Flipper mechanism from a 1978 Star Trek</b></center>
 +
File:BallyMedusaFlipper.jpg|<center><b>Later Bally Flipper mechanism from a 1981 Medusa.  Commonly referred to as "linear flippers". Note-Double EOS switch for Upper Zipper Flipper</b></center>
 +
File:SternDraculaFlipper.jpg|<center><b>Early Stern Flipper mechanism (Generation 1) from a 1979 Dracula. Note-Double EOS switch for Upper Flipper</b></center>
 +
File:SternSeawitchFlipper.jpg|<center><b>Later Stern Flipper mechanism (Generation 2) from a 1981 Star Gazer</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Being able to test the MPU board on the bench is a great advantage in trouble shooting. A benchtop power supply is quite easy and inexpensive to put together. All that is required is a computer supply and some mods to the connectors. An ATX or old AT computer power supply will supply the + 5 vdc and +12 VDC that is needed to run the first 6 flashes. The 7th and final flash requires +43 vdc and cannot be supplied by the ATX power supply, but the MPU can be "fooled" into thinking it is present.
+
===Accessing Bookkeeping and Diagnostic Modes===
−
An ordinary ATX computer can be had used or new for under $20. Exact wattage is unimportant. In order to be able to switch the power on and off, the 20 pin connector on a ATX supply must be modded. This is not necessary on an older AT supply. Because modern motherboards use a soft power on/off, the green pwr-ON at pin 14 must be tied to the black COM ground at pin 13 or 15 thru 17. This can be done easily done with a short length of wire and a .062 pin attached to each end and shoved into the 20 pin connector at pin 14 and 15. Or, simply cut the wires free from the connector and solder them together.
+
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="Bally and Stern Coin Door Test Buttons">
 +
File:Bally-coin-door-switches.jpg|<center><b>Bally -17 and -35 Coin Door Test Button (L:Early -17, R:Late -35)</b></center>
 +
File:Stern-coin-door-switches.jpg|<center><b>Stern -100 Coin Door Test Button (L:Early, R:Late)</b></center>
 +
File:Stern M-200 Coin Door.JPG|<center><b>Stern -200 Coin Door Buttons</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Take one of the molex 4 pin connectors which have 1 RED wire (+5 vdc), 1 YELLOW (+12 vdc) and 2 BLACK ground wires.  Attach an alligator clip to the RED, YELLOW and one BLACK lead. A good tip is to use the color coded rubber boots to protect from accidental shorts and keep it easier to identify the leads at a  glance. If you should accidentally short the +12 volts to +5 via you will kill all the ICs on the board !
+
<br clear=all>
  
−
To use the power supply, with the power OFF, clip the black lead to TP 4 at the top right of the board.  Clip the RED +5 vdc lead to TP 5 at the bottom right, near the battery. Finally clip the YELLOW +12 vdc to TP 2 on the bottom left of the board. Make certain that this connector is not on or shorted to TP3 which is nearby. This error would damage the board, so double check this before turning on the power. Connect the power supply to 120vdc outlet and flip the switch to boot.
+
The game must be working properly for the test button to function at all. The test button is not within the game switch matrix. It merely grounds pin 1 of MPU connector J3, (note that the ground wire for this switch connects to the solenoid driver board at pin J2-7, not the MPU board as one would expect). The switch itself is surprisingly resilient to beer/soda. Most failures of continuity to the MPU circuitry are due to either the connector pin in the female housing, or due to fractured solder joints on the male header.
  
−
Upon power up, you should see the brief flicker, then 6 (not 7) more flashes for a good board. The 7th flash cannot be gotten without +43 vdc present. On some occasions, the LED will lock on and not go into the flash sequence. This COULD BE because the MPU is sensitive to the exact voltage supplied and will not boot with a computer supply, so if it boots in the game, that would be the cause. This condition is rare, but possible. Also, if the LED locks on immediately,  try doing a manual reset by briefly shorting together pins 39 and 40 of the U9 CPU with a small screwdriver. This forces the pin 40 to go low and begin the boot process. It is also possible to short the junction of resistors R1 and R3, on the right side of R1, to board GROUND with a jumper clip to accomplish the same effect.
+
With the exception of Stern -200 based games, pressing the test button the '''first''' time will enter the lamp test.  All cpu controlled lamps will flash on and off including backbox lamps. This test will put the greatest load on the rectifier bridge as well as the connectors, enabling you to see "weak" connections.
  
−
[[file:power_Supply_Connector.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|ATX Power Supply connector modification]]
+
Pressing the button for the '''first''' time with a Stern -200 based game will start a "burn in" test (lamps, displays, and solenoids will all be tested at the same time).
−
[[file:power_Supply_hookupR.jpg|thumb|alt=alternative text| Bench Top Power Supply hooked up to MPU board]]
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
====Repairing Alkaline Damage ====
+
The '''second''' press of the test button will bring you into display test.  Digits from 0-9 will appear on all displays in sequence, enabling inspection of the display elements. This test will not assist in some problems that can occur in displays concerning digit decoding, nor problems where one display ghosts its information onto another, as all displays are displaying the same information.  Some games will "walk" an eight across the displays in a sequence enabling issues with decoders to be determined.
−
Should a leaky battery damage your MPU, the first decision to make is this: is the board worth repairing? The extent of the alkaline damage combined with your PCB repair skills, the value you place on your time, and the quality of the result you want to obtain may drive you to replace the board entirely with either an OEM board or one of several aftermarket replacements. Alkaline cleanup, component sourcing and replacement, and socketing troublesome old IC sockets can take 3 to 8 hours.
 
  
−
Should you decide to repair the board, component kits to replace everything in the "corrosion zone" are available from several sources for about $10.  
+
The '''third''' press of the test button will start a solenoid test.  For Bally games, only the solenoids installed in that particular game will be tested, with their corresponding number showing on the displays.  Most Stern games will test all solenoid driver circuits regardless of if they are utilized in that game or not.  For this reason, it is desirable to test a solenoid board with Stern software to be able to test all components of the solenoid drive circuit (especially if you are fixing a board foreign to your game).  After all solenoids are tested, Stern games will test the sound board during solenoid test, while Bally games will not.
  
−
Note: Most alkaline damage repair kits do not include the L1 and L2 inductors which are often damaged. Since these inductors are so small in value, simply replace them with a jumper.
+
With Bally -17 games and all Stern games, the '''fourth''' press of the test button will start a switch test.  The lowest numbered stuck or closed switch will show in the displays. If there are no stuck switches a zero will show in the match display.  NOTE:  Multiple closed switches will <b>NOT</b> display anything other than the <b>lowest</b> numbered switch.  This can be an issue with various switch matrix diode problems, as the switch displayed as closed may not be the switch with a problem.  There is a special test rom available that will show ALL closed switches in a sequence similar to how Williams' machines did so. The special test ROM can be downloaded [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/0/05/Sco_testrom8.zip <b><u>here</u></b>].
  
−
Once you've decided to proceed, to neutralize alkaline, you need an acid.  The most common way to accomplish this is to wash the affected area of the board with a mild vinegar solution (50% vinegar to 50% water).  Use a toothbrush to scrub the board's affected area and outside the affected area, front and back.  After scrubbing, rinse the board with water, then use isopropyl alcohol (the highest percentage you can get - 99% or 91%) in a wave action down the board to displace the water.  Let the board air dry, or use a hair dryer without heat to speed the drying process.
+
With Bally -35 games, the '''fourth''' press of the test button will initiate a sound test.  The same sound will be played repeatedly until the test is exited.
  
−
After the board is dry, replace any components that were affected by the corrosion damage.  The parts will be harder to remove and solder as the combination of corrosion and cleaning makes the solder difficult to heat.  Adding new solder before desoldering will help in this process, as will boosting your temperature controlled soldering station up by about 50 degrees.  Be careful as the pads are very fragile at this point and can lift easily.
+
The '''fifth''' press of the test button will start switch test with Bally -35 games, and start the audits/settings with all other games.  Regardless, subsequent presses will get you into audit/adjustment mode; you will see an 01 in the match display when you are at the first adjustment.
 +
 
 +
==First Things First (WIP)==
 +
As exciting as it may be to acquire a pinball machine, there are several things which should be done before turning one on, or even plugging it in for that matter.  It may have been plugged in where it was purchased, but there may be some hidden issues looming inside the game.  Following this systematic approach should be very beneficial.
  
−
Alternate methods of cleaning the affected areas include bead blasting, and sanding.  If the damage is very slight, sanding might work best but you remove all the conformal coating when you do so (that's the green masking material applied to the traces on the board).  You have to either replace this coating, or use an alternate material to protect the bare traces from oxidation.  Clear nail polish has been used to do this, but isn't a great substitute.  You can also tin the affected traces with new solder which will protect the copper.  It is also possible to purchase conformal coating but it is toxic and messy to work with.
+
===Keep Game Unplugged Until Further Notice===
 +
When fixing a game of unknown origin, it is best to initially keep it unplugged.  There are several things which should be inspected on game, and these things require the game to be unplugged.  While it's unplugged, make certain that the 3-prong is present on the line cord, and is actually connected to the earth ground of the game.  Likewise, if the 3-prong plug was ever changed in its life, it's a good idea to remove the cover of the plug, and inspect how the wires are connected to the terminal screws of the replacement plug.
  
−
Bead blasting is a technique that uses small glass beads on a sand-blaster type setup to blast away the corrosion.  Again, the conformal coating is removed and should be replaced.  Some critics of the bead blasting technique indicate that the corrosion actually gets embedded in the board by this method; however, it is an accepted repair practice in electronics repair.  Most people do not have the equipment needed to do this.
+
After looking over the line cord plug, inspect the line cord.  Make certain that there are no nicks or cuts in the cord, deeming it unsafe.  [http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html#Parts Pinball Resource] carries an inexpensive, flat, 3-conductor, 14ft. line cord.  Next, move to the inside of the cabinet.  Make certain that the line cord is securely soldered to the terminals on the line filter.  Equally, make certain the ground of the line cord is fastened to the earth ground of the cabinet.
  
−
Regardless of the method used, any bare copper traces should be at minimum tinned with solder.  Often after removing the components, you will need to sand the remaining pad to get a good soldering surface.  A small fiberglass sanding pen is ideal for this purpose (available at auto parts stores).  It allows precise sanding on small surfaces.  Sand right before you solder as copper starts to oxidize immediately.  Use a can of compressed air to blow any fiberglass particles out of your work area and be careful using the fiberglass pen as the fibers will become embedded in your skin causing irritation.  Wear eye protection as well as you really do not want these particles flying into your eyes!
+
===Check All of the Fuses===
 +
It is highly recommended to check all of the fuses in the game.  This includes the fuses on the rectifier board.  However, on some games, there are fuses also located under the playfield (for solenoids), on the cabinet wall (for chime coils), behind the display panel (for displays on early Stern games), and / or on the solenoid driver board (for the displays).  As mentioned, not all games have fuses in these locations, but be on the look out for them.  The best way to make certain that all of the correct fuses go in the correct places is to first remove all of the fuses.  Once they are removed, use an ohmmeter or DMM, and check continuity across all of the fuses.  Once the fuse have been checked, start placing them back into their proper locations.  By removing all of the fuses, the user is forced to put the correct values in the correct locations.  Fuses can be kept in the game, but if checking continuity, one side of the fuse must be removed from the fuse holder to attain an accurate reading.
  
−
Use a meter to test your work, following point by point as you replace components to ensure you have a clean circuit path.  Add jumpers as needed, and solder replaced components top and bottom to ensure good via continuity.  Use a high quality socket when you replace the 5101 ram and be very careful around this area, as it is right next to the battery zone and is usually heavily damaged.  All of the traces in this area are part of the address and data bus for all the roms, pias, and cpu, so any shorts or damage here will affect the rest of the board.
+
===Inspect the Circuit Boards===
 +
*Burnt / scorched portions of board
 +
*Battery rot on MPU
 +
*Battery rot on lamp driver board and other boards
 +
*Bulging caps on SDB
  
−
Finally, remember also that the alkaline will travel both down and up from the original position of the battery.  Inspect the lamp driver board (right below the MPU) to ensure it hasn't become corroded also.  If the corrosion was really bad, inspect the J4 connector on the MPU too. Corrosion will travel into the wires in this connector.  If this has happened, you <b>must</b> cut the wires back far enough so the corrosion is not seen; otherwise it will leach back into your board and continue to spread through the wiring harness.  Hopefully, the harness will still have enough slack to make it to the J4 connector.  If not, you can extend the wires neatly by soldering and heat-shrinking new wires onto the harness.  Having a parts machine to pull this type of wiring from enables you to match closely the wire markings so prevent confusion in the future.
 
  
−
<center>
+
===Inspect / Test the Circuit Board Components===
−
<gallery widths=400px heights=200px perrow=2 caption="Bally/Stern MPU Alkaline Damage Abatement">
+
*Quick test on the solenoid transistors
−
File:BallyMPUAlkalineCleanedUpFront.jpg|<center><b>The front side of a Stern MPU-200 with alkaline damage removed.</b></center>
 
−
File:BallyMPUAlkalineCleanedUpBack.jpg|<center><b>The back side of a Stern MPU-200 with alkaline damage removed.</b></center>
 
−
File:BallyMPUAlkalineCleanedUpCorner.jpg|<center><b>An MPU-200, "corrosion zone" cleaned up.</b></center>
 
−
File:Corrosion_Cleaned_MPU.JPG|<center><b>A Bally -17 MPU, "corrosion zone" cleaned up.</b></center>
 
−
</gallery>
 
−
</center>
 
  
−
==== Using the Dallas/Maxim DS1811 Reset Generator on Bally and Stern MPUs ====
 
−
Like the [[Gottlieb_System_80#Using_a_Reset_Generator_for_the_CPU_Reset_Section| technique]] employed to repair alkaline damage on Gottlieb System 80 MPUs, the Dallis/Maxim DS1811 reset generator may be used on Bally and Stern MPUs also. The DS1811-10 has a typical trip point of 4.35VDC. You may also use the Microchip Technology equivalent, part number [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460DI%2FTO MCP130-460DI/TO], available from Great Plains Electronics.
 
  
−
Unlike Gottlieb System 80 MPUs, using the DS1811 on Bally and Stern boards doesn't save you much work. It replaces only 10 easily sourced components. And since you've done the hard work of cleaning up the alkaline damage already, using the DS1811 isn't really worth the trouble. But, if you'd like to use the DS1811, the procedure is described below.
+
===Inspect the Circuit Board Connections===
  
−
After you've cleaned up the alkaline damage, replace all components except these 10:
+
*Wires soldered directly to rec. board.
−
*VR1
+
*Connectors destroyed due to battery rot
−
*R1, R2, and R3
 
−
*R112
 
−
*R138, R139, and R140
 
−
*Q1 and Q5
 
  
−
With the board oriented as it would be in the game (J5 at top), install a jumper from the top through-hole of where R139 was, to the bottom through-hole of where R138 was.
 
  
−
There are several ways to form the legs of the DS1811 for a Bally or Stern MPU. However, with the flat side of the DS1811 facing left (i.e. at J4), the legs of the DS1811 should be placed in the prior location of Q5 such that:
+
===Check the Solenoids===
 +
*Physically move plungers in coils
 +
*Check solenoid resistance
 +
*Don't forget hidden coils, such as knocker, chimes, and coin lockout
 +
*Check EOS switches on flippers
  
−
*Pin 3 of reset generator (top pin) is where the upper, right lead of where Q5 was
 
−
*Pin 2 of reset generator (middle pin) is where the lower, right lead of Q5 was
 
−
*Pin 1 of reset generator (bottom pin) is where the left lead of Q5 was
 
  
−
Add a 1K, 1/4W resistor from pin 1 of the reset generator to +5VDC. This signal can be picked up conveniently at the banded end of CR5 (a 1N4148 diode).
+
===Inspect Harness Wiring===
 +
*Make sure screw is secured for ground braid between head and cabinet
 +
*Make sure cabinet ground braid is connected to ground (gets ripped / torn)
 +
*Look for cuts on coin door wiring
 +
*Look for unsoldered / cut wires "floating around"
 +
*Look for burns / scorching
  
−
<center>
+
===Plug It In and Turn It On===
−
<gallery widths=400px heights=300px perrow=2 caption="Using the Dallas/Maxim 1811 Reset Generator">
+
*Plug in minimal amount of boards
−
File:MPU200DallasReset.jpg|An MPU-200 MPU with alkaline damage abated, and reset components replaced with the DS1811 reset generator.
+
*Start w/ input to rec. board
−
File:Placeholder.jpg|Illustrated picture of components to remove, keep, and jumpers to add.
+
*Plug in 20 pin head harness to rec. board next
−
File:MPU200DallasResetAnnotated.jpg|The same image, but with the single jumper indicated (yellow dot) and where to install the Dallas Maxim 1811, flat side facing left.
+
*Plug in upper right of SDB next
−
File:MPU200DallasResetCloseup.jpg|Closeup of the DS1811 equivalent installed.
+
*Plug in lower left of MPU next
−
</gallery>
+
*Plug in upper left of LDB next
−
</center>
+
*Plug in all others on LDB next
−
<br clear=all>
+
*Plug in upper left of MPU next
 +
*Plug in lower right and all others on SDB
 +
*Listen for locked on coils
 +
*Plug in upper right and lower right of MPU
  
−
===Solenoid problems===
 
−
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or problems, see this section: [[General#How are coils driven?| How coils are turned on]]
 
−
====Replacing a failed Solenoid Transistor====
 
  
−
If any coil has locked on, or any SE9302 transistor has failed the diode test with your multimeter, replace the following components on the Solenoid Driver board as a set. In addition, also test the playfield coil disconnected from the game wires,  with the ohm setting. The coil should have a value higher than 3 ohms up to around 15 ohms. Lower than 3 ohms is a dead short and will heat up and burn up components if the fuse does not blow. The coil diodes should also be replaced if the coil has locked on. Since the diode must be disconnected from the lugs to test it, it just makes sense to clip it off, replace the diodes, and not bother to test them. 1N4004 diodes or better, (1N4005,6 or 7) should be used. You cannot test the diode in place. The diode band (cathode) goes to the power lug of the coil, usually a double wire connection, because the coils are daisy chained. If it is a single wire, look at another nearby coil and note the color of the double wire.
 
  
−
Replace any suspect SE9302 with a TIP 102 transistor. They are used in many pinball machines, so having a small supply of them is highly recommended. The TIP 102 is a more robust transistor and can handle more current. On the SDB replace the associated diode, and resistor for any driver transistor you replace. Check the associated pin for signs of burning and replace the header pins and connector pins if they have turned brown or look corroded. If a diode and/or resistor has actually burnt, check for continuity and make sure the circuit board traces have not also burnt up. This is a common problem when someone has over-fused the game.
+
<br clear=all>
−
+
 
−
==== Solenoid Driver Board Transistor, Resistor, Diode & associated Connector Chart====
+
 
−
{| class="wikitable"
+
==Problems and Solutions==
−
|-
+
===Connectors===
−
! TIP 102
+
Vibration, heat, poor storing conditions, and in some cases alkali damage all take their toll on the connectors used in a pinball machine.  Both the male header pins and crimp connectors within plastic housings, (in rare instances, IDC connectors too), are susceptible to the aforementioned conditions.  Likewise, some previous person may have performed work on the game which got the job done, but was not necessarily the proper or most desirable way to do it.<br>
−
! 1N4004 Diode
+
 
−
! 330 ohm Resistor
+
Since the backbone to a properly and reliably functioning game is the connectors, spend some time inspecting all of the connectors in the game, before turning it on for the first time.  If any connectors appear to be suspect, repair or replace the connector involved.  The best practice is to replace both the male headers and the crimp connectors, if a specific area has seen some sort of damage from heat, oxidation, or alkali damage. In most every case, the plastic or nylon connector housings can be reused, if the crimp connectors are carefully removed.
−
! SDB Connector
+
<br clear=all>
−
|-
+
 
−
| Q1
+
====The Importance of Keying Plugs====
−
| CR1
+
[[File:Stern J3 Rec Two 10s.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Connector as found on a Stern Rectifier Board J3 Connector]]
−
| R9
+
[[File:Stern J1 Rec Board Keyless.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Connector as found on a Stern Rectifier Board J1 Connector]]
−
| J1-pin 2, J2-pin 9
+
[[File:Stern J3 Rec Replaced.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Connector repinned, keying plug installed, and proper housing for Stern Rectifier Board J3 Connector]]
−
|-
+
In addition to connectors, keying plugs play a large role in a game.  Every .100" and .156" header connection has one pin removed.  The purpose of this practice is to differentiate between connectors with minimal effort. The compliment housing will have a keying plug installed in the position where the header pin is absent.  This was done originally at the factory.  However, if a connector was replaced or repinned, a person who previously worked on the machine may not have installed a new keying plug.<br>
−
| Q2
+
 
−
| CR2
+
Two examples of connectors without keying plugs can be seen in the pics on the left. This game had its wiring harness removed, so the connectors were not placed in their proper positions, and had to be reinstalled.  The problem with the first pic is these two .156" 10-pin housings were being used in lieu of the proper, single .156" 20-pin housing at the J3 connection of the rectifier board.  The potential to incorrectly plug these two connectors onto the J3 header is extremely high.  Because neither housing had a key installed, plus two housings were used instead of one, there are at least four different ways that this connector could be connected. Incorrectly plugging the connector onto the header may have caused extreme unnecessary damage to several of the circuit boards.<br>
−
| R6
+
 
−
| J1-3, J2-4
+
In the lower pic to the left, the connector which goes onto J1 of the rectifier boards was missing a key too.  In addition to possibly being plugged in upside down, this connector just as easily could have been plugged in one pin off. If the connector was installed incorrectly, the results would not have been good.<br> 
−
|-
+
 
−
| Q3
+
Considering the overall cost of a keying plug (around $0.25) it is well worth the small cost and effort it takes to install one.  It can potentially save the user from unnecessary and costly repairs to the game.  If you simply do not have a keying plug and can't remove the old one from the connector, you can use a square toothpick or a Qtip shaft cut down slightly to make one. It is a hack but it's better than destroying good boards and components.
−
| CR3
+
<br clear=all>
−
| R16
+
 
−
| J2-5, J3-4
+
====So, Just What is this Green Slime?====
−
|-
+
[[File:YouveBeenGreased.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical Blue-Green Slime, sometimes found on Bally/Stern header pins.]]<br>
−
| Q4
+
Sometimes, a blue-green slime seems to be "bleeding" from a header pin connector. This is most likely the insulation coating breaking down into a slime.  The best course of action, for long term reliability, is to repin both the male and female sides of the connector, getting rid of the slime as you go.
−
| CR4
+
<br clear=all>
−
| R18
+
 
−
| J1-5
+
===Powering up the first time===
−
|-
+
Thanks to Bally's decision to modularize their system, there is a technique you can use to save yourself some headaches when you first power up a machine.  This method connects one section/board at a time and allows you to test each board thoroughly before moving onto the next so you can isolate any issues to one board.  This method concentrates on the -18, -49, and all stern games rectifier boards.  The -54 rectifier board on later Bally games would employ a slightly different technique.
−
| Q5
+
 
−
| CR5
+
Disconnect all connectors from the mpu, lamp, sound (if present) and solenoid driver boards.  Disconnect J1 and J3 from the rectifier board.  Leave J2 connected.  Check all the fuses for proper values on the rectifier board.  Power on the game, watching to see if any fuses blow.  Use a meter and test each test point on the rectifier board to ensure proper voltage is present (remember some of the voltages are AC).  Get the rectifier board working 100%.
−
| R10
+
 
−
| J2-10
+
Turn the game off and reconnect J3 to the solenoid driver board.  Connect J3 to the rectifier board as well.  Power on the game and repeat the voltage tests on all the test points on the rectifier and solenoid driver board.  Investigate any suspect voltages and correct any faults found.  Keep in mind that the displays use both the high voltage and +5 voltage so it might be a good idea to remove the displays from the circuit, also.
−
|-
+
 
−
| Q6
+
<b>RottenDog Solenoid Driver/Voltage Regulator</b>
−
| CR6
+
 
−
| R12
+
[[File:RottenDogTL783.jpg|200px|left|thumb|A RottenDog high voltage regulator, a TL783.]]<br>
−
| J2-11
+
The RottenDog solenoid driver board uses a TL783 voltage regulator to create display High voltage which should be about 185VDC. This voltage regulator isn’t designed to work as it has been implemented on this board. If the TL783 fails, and they do quite often with this implementation, the full 240VDC will be sent to your displays. This will cause the displays to develop “zits” and fail prematurely. <br clear=all>
−
|-
+
 
−
| Q7
+
Once the solenoid driver board tests ok, connect J4 to the mpu board.  Do not reconnect any other connectors to any other boards at this point.  Power on the game; if all is well, you will see the mpu board start its LED flash sequence.  This is where the majority of repairs will take place; there's no point in hooking other boards up until you have a solid rectifier, solenoid driver/power regulator, mpu board combination working.
−
| CR7
+
 
−
| R14
+
After/if the mpu board is booting, add the rest of the connectors back in.  When you add the playfield's connectors back in and power up, listen for any solenoids locking on at power-up.  Repair the solenoid circuits before proceeding if any do lock on.
−
| J2-12
+
 
−
|-
+
At each step in the chain, be sure to inspect and repair any and all connectors in the circuits.  Often the connectors get tarnished and do not conduct well enough for reliable game operation.  Do not try to clean or sand any suspect connectors - this is a temporary fix at best and only delays the inevitable task of replacement.
−
| Q8
+
 
−
| CR8
+
Using this method for powering up the game for the first time ensures that any issues you encounter will be isolated to the last piece you added in.  Diagnosing and repairing one board at a time is much simpler than multiples.
−
| R20
+
 
−
| J5-10
+
===Rectifier Board Issues===
−
|-
+
 
−
| Q9
+
====-18, Stern Rectifier boards====
−
| CR9
+
The rectifier board takes the AC voltage from the transformer and uses bridge rectification to convert those voltages to DC.  No filtering is done on the rectifier board (that's the solenoid driver/power supply board's job).  Depending on the generation of board, there are varying amounts of discrete diodes or bridge rectifiers that produce the DC voltages needed.  Additionally, all of the circuits have a fuse for protection in the event of a short on this board.
−
| R26
+
 
−
| J5-9
+
Putting a meter on the test points across the top of the board will tell you if you're missing any voltages.  Refer to the schematics or the charts above to determine the proper voltages at each test point, and remember that some of the voltage outputs are AC volts.  If there are any missing voltages investigate further to determine the cause.  The main issues with the rectifier board are cracked header pins, bad bridges, poor fuse clips, and poor connections on through hole vias.
−
|-
+
 
−
| Q10
+
If you do nothing else to your power supply, replace the header pins and the connectors that connect to them.  The pins are usually burnt beyond usage as are the connector pins.  (Often, operators chopped the harness connectors off and soldered the wires directly to the pins as a "fix".)  You can get 10 amp header pins from various suppliers that are more robust than the original 7 amp versions.  Often just this change alone will fix many lamp "wavering" problems you see on games with lots of feature lamps.
−
| CR10
+
 
−
| R28
+
When you replace the header pins consider prying up the plastic insulator piece slightly that keeps the pins in place so you can solder to the top and bottom of each pin.  This technique will cure any problems with vias you have and obviate the need for jumper wires that accomplish the same thing.  After soldering you can push the insulator piece back down.
−
| J5-15
+
 
−
|-
+
Many times the fuse clips are weak or aren't making good contact with the fuses.  If you inspect the fuse clips and they are tarnished at all, replace them.  Any fuse rated at 4 amps or more use a high current fuse clip to eliminate issues in the future with that circuit.  Lower value fuses can use lower current clips with no problem.  Solder the fuse clips bottom and top where appropriate for maximal mechanical strength and conductivity.
−
| Q11
+
 
−
| CR11
+
It's a good idea to replace the discrete diode bridge for the high voltage score display with 1N4007 diodes mounted slightly off the board (about 1/4") so that air can circulate all around them.  Solder the leads top and bottom where appropriate.  The power resistors should be replaced also with a slight air gap below them to help with cooling.  It is possible to approximately double the size of the power resistors (25 ohm to 47 ohm, 600 ohm to 1.3k ohm) to help with the heat dissipated [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_frm/thread/4f40e7f54348acd6/b428979e9f2597c3?lnk=gst&q=bally+rectifier+resistor+gpe#b428979e9f2597c3 Resistor/temperature discussion] although the final test results were not posted. 
−
| R32
+
 
−
| J5-14
+
If you need to replace any bridges, the original style VJ248 bridge can be replaced on the -18 board with a wire lead 25 or 35 amp bridge rectifier.  The notch in the bridge is the positive + output; diagonally opposite this lead is the DC negative -.  The other 2 leads are the AC inputs and are interchangeable.  You have to bend the leads slightly to get them to fit in the smaller VJ248 solder pads.  Mark the top of the board with the positive, negative, and AC leads so you don't solder the bridge off by mistake.
−
|-
+
 
−
| Q12
+
If you decide to use the original style bridge, make sure it's not thicker than the other bridges in any other position.  The 3 bridges must lie flat against the heat sink slug for proper cooling.  The best way to install a replacement VJ248 of the same thickness is to put the bridge in place, then bolt the slug back onto all 3 bridges.  Solder the replacement bridge in place.  Reinstall the slug with heat sink compound (available at computer supply stores or Radio Shack) smeared in a single thin layer on each bridge surface, and the slug surfaces.  Use the least amount possible to get a good even layer; more is not better.
−
| CR12
+
 
−
| R30
+
After replacing any parts, test your work with only the J2 cabinet connector installed.  Never over fuse a circuit unless the manual for the game specifies; for instance, games with more than 2 flippers often recommend a larger fuse for the solenoid circuit to handle the additional load multiple flipper coils place on the fuse.
−
| J5-13
+
 
−
|-
+
====Bally -54 Rectifier board====
−
| Q13
+
[[File:Bally Rectifier board -54 component side,jpg.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Bally -54 Rectifier Board (Component Side)]]
−
| CR13
+
[[File:Bally Rectifier board -54 solder side.jpg|200px|right|thumb|Bally -54 Rectifier Board (Solder Side)]]<br>
−
| R22
+
 
−
| J5-12
+
The weak link of this generation of rectifier board are the CR1-CR4 diodes (originally 1n4004, replace with 1n4007 - not so much for the added power capacity, but for the increased heat dissipation) and CR5-CR8 (6 amp at least 50v diodes).  The original bridges are much hardier on this generation of rectifier board.  If you do need to replace a bridge, the best way is to install it and bolt it onto the bottom mounting plate, then solder it into place.  The bottom mounting plate acts as a heat sink for the bridges.<br>
−
|-
+
 
−
| Q14
+
BR1 is for the feature lamps on the game, BR2 is for the solenoids.  The bridge formed by CR5-CR8 forms the +5 vdc, and the one formed by CR1-CR4 supplies the high voltage for the displays.  Mount the discrete diodes slightly off the board for better cooling.  While not a large problem on this board, inspect the fuse clips as well to ensure they are not tarnished.
−
| CR14
+
<br clear=all>
−
| R24
+
 
−
| J5-11
+
===The Single Largest Culprit in MPU death===
−
|-
+
[[File:Batery_damaged_bally_-17.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Typical Alkaline Damage to a Bally MPU board]]<br><br>
−
| Q15
+
By far the largest reason the MPU board stops working is because of alkaline corrosion from the on-board rechargeable batteries.  The original battery used on the board is a 3.6 volt nickel cadmium rechargeable battery; over time, this type of battery leaks corrosion into the traces surrounding it, affecting the 5101 memory, the reset circuit, the 6810 memory, the LED area, and all the traces around it.  One of the worst boards had corrosion stretching throughout the entire ground plane of the board.
−
| CR15
+
<br clear=all>
−
| R39
+
 
−
| Flipper Relay
+
====Get rid of that battery now!====
−
|-
+
[[File:nicad_elim_options.jpg|left|200px|thumb|Some Options to Eliminate the Ni-Cad Battery on the board]]<br><br>
−
| Q16
+
If a battery is on the board, it is recommended to remove it immediately.  There are several different ways to replace the battery; in order of preference: 5101 ram eliminator, memory capacitor, nothing, lithium battery, remote mounted AA battery pack, exact replacement.  The different options with pros and cons are listed below.
−
| CR16
+
<br clear=all>
−
| R34
+
 
−
| J2-6, J3-7, J5-8
+
<b>5101 Ram Eliminator</b>
−
|-
+
:A 5101 ram eliminator doesn't eliminate the ram per se; it replaces it with a more modern ram that is either flash ram or has an internal battery built into it.
−
| Q17
+
:<b>Advantages:</b> eliminating a static sensitive obsolete part, eliminating any type of battery that could leak, high reliability, very long retention time (10-99 years)
−
| CR17
+
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> relatively high cost, need to remove the 5101 (if not socketed) and replace or add a socket, stressing relatively frail mpu board traces, flash ram type can wear out (although unlikely)
−
| R42
+
 
−
| J5-7
+
<b>Memory Capacitor</b>
−
|-
+
:A small capacitor (5.5 volt 1.5 farad works well) is added to the board in place of the original battery.  The charging circuit for the rechargeable battery works just fine in maintaining enough of a voltage to enable the capacitor to act in place of the battery.  Experience with memory capacitors is somewhat unpredictable.  In some games, a charge lasts only a couple months; in other games, it has been seen to last at least a couple <i>years</i>.
−
| Q18
+
:<b>Advantages:</b> relatively low cost, easy installation, no risk of battery leakage, high reliability
−
| CR18
+
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> large initial charge time, some 5101s draw too much current, must turn machine on every couple of months to top off capacitor
−
| R45
+
 
−
| J2-15, J3-9, J5-3
+
<b>Nothing</b>
−
|-
+
:Removing the battery and cleaning the board up, you do have the option to replace the battery with nothing.  If you don't care about audits, settings, or high scores, this is a valid option.  Some software might not like having random garbage in its memory range, though.  If you have a Stern MPU-200 based game, do not leave the battery out as the random garbage will cause problems with Stern's software.  However, there have been free play romsets developed for this era game that zero out the memory on every bootup, ensuring no garbage gets into the audits causing game errors.  Note that not all free play roms have this option, since there is no battery, there's no way for the game to save high scores, options, etc.
−
| Q19
+
:<b>Advantages:</b> No risk of leakage, ever
−
| CR19
+
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> No high scores save, no audits, garbage in ram can cause issues with some software, unless a specific romset is installed with this usage in mind.
−
| R47
+
 
−
| J2-8
+
<b>Lithium Battery</b>
−
|-
+
:Replacing the original nickel cadmium battery with a lithium battery is possible; however it is <u>imperative</u> that you add a blocking diode to prevent the battery from being charged.
−
| '''TIP 102'''
+
:<b>Advantages:</b> Very long life (10 years on average), cheap, can be mounted far from boards so any leakage would not leak onto boards
−
| '''1N4004 diode'''
+
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> Must use blocking diode, can leak (unlikely), any leakage difficult to clean up
−
| '''330 ohm Resistor'''
+
 
−
| '''SDB Connector'''
+
<b>Remote Mounted AA Battery Pack</b>
−
|}
+
:A popular and inexpensive option is to replace the original battery with a small AA pack, with a blocking diode.  Like the lithium replacement option, it is essential to have a blocking diode (usually incorporated into the pack) so the mpu doesn't try and charge the AA batteries.  If you get lithium AA batteries you can get very long life.  This type of battery pack needs to be checked periodically to ensure no leakage is occurring.
 +
:<b>Advantages:</b> Low cost, can be moved far from boards so if batteries so leak they do not leak directly onto boards
 +
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> Periodic maintenance (replacing/checking), can leak
 +
 
 +
<b>Exact Replacement</b>
 +
:You can replace the NiCad with a NiCad.  Not recommended as all of the original pitfalls of the original battery are still present, but it will work.  Many people use cordless phone batteries to do this; just make sure the voltage and amp hour rating are similar to the original battery. (3.6 volt 150 milliamp hours)
 +
:<b>Advantages:</b> Low cost, can also be mounted far from boards so any leakage does not leak directly onto boards
 +
:<b>Disadvantages:</b> Can leak, needs periodic maintenance (checking for corrosion)
 +
 
 +
Note that all of the replacement options that include batteries are subject to the same conditions causing leakage as the original battery was.  It is strongly recommended that if you decide to use a solution that uses a battery as its power source to remotely mount the battery so that any future leakage does not drip onto the boards.  The bottom of the head is a good choice as is the sidewall in cases where there are no boards mounted there.  Corrosion can and does travel through the wiring used to relocate the batteries however, so periodic inspection of the batteries and board are necessary to ensure that no further corrosion is occurring.
 +
 
 +
====Installation of Various Battery Eliminators====
 +
=====AA Battery pack=====
 +
[[file:Battery-Holder-and-Diode.jpg|thumb|left|200px|4 AA cell battery holder & diode]]<br>
 +
One inexpensive option is to replace the Ni-Cad rechargeable battery pack with a 4 AA battery pack plus diode using ordinary alkaline batteries. You must install a blocking diode (1N5817 or 1N4004 work fine) to prevent the game from trying to charge the battery and causing damage. Install the diode in the 1st bay with the banded side soldered to the "+" or RED terminal and the non-banded end to the "-" BLACK negative spring. Having a battery backup will save high scores & credits, and some sound settings. The holder can be mounted in a convenient spot in the backbox, and leads soldered to the MPU and a Molex .062 2 terminal pin and socket connected to the battery holder for easy servicing of the MPU. Mouser P/N 12BH348-GR for the 4 AA pack.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
===Lamp problems===
+
=====Lithium Battery with Holder=====
−
Most lamp problems stem from the sockets themselves.  The recommended best practice for problem sockets is to replace them.  If you want to try and get them working reliably, here are some things you can try:
+
[[File:Stern M-200 Lith Bat.JPG|thumb|left|200px|Lithium Battery with Holder Installed on Stern M-200 Board]]<br>
 +
Adding a 3v lithium button battery is an option.  It is recommended to install a lithium battery holder.  Adding a holder is beneficial for two reasons.  First, heating a lithium battery is dangerous.  There is potential for explosion, if the battery is overheated.  Secondly, adding a holder makes future replacement of the battery much easier.<br>
  
−
First off, clean the inside of the socket.  There are nice dremel tool tips to help, but even a screw driver can scratch off some crud from inside a socket.  Some time a light squeeze on the socket with pliers can make the bulb stay in nice and snug and be less likely to move and stop lighting.
+
If adding a lithium battery, a blocking diode must be installed to keep the MPU from charging the battery.  Although it cannot be seen in the pic to the left, a blocking diode is installed on the component side under the battery holder.  The M-200 has 4 through holes located just above the bottom ground trace.  These through holes are used to install an alternate block style Ni-Cad battery.  The bottom left through hole is for the battery's positive terminal.  The upper left through hole is used only to support the battery (the pad does not go to any of the board's circuitry).<br clear=all>
  
−
The bare wire running under the playfield for controlled lamp power carries 5-6 vdc and is usually soldered onto the sockets mounting bracket.  The mounting bracket then connects to the outside of the socket.  After 30 years or so the connection from the mounting bracket to the lamp socket's outside can break.  To remedy this there are two things you can try.  You can solder the barrel of the lamp socket directly to the base of the socket (so it can no longer swivel).  This can be kind of tricky without a higher power soldering iron - if you use paste flux it is easier.  Radio Shack also sells a solder called "Crystal Clear" flux which works well.  To do this well you need to either sand or file (the file works best and saves your fingers) the area to be soldered on the base and the barrel.  The other option is to run a small jumper wire that connects the bare wire directly to the outside of the socket, thus eliminating the poorer connection between the mounting bracket and barrel.
+
In this example, the banded side of the diode is soldered to the lower left through hole.  The non-banded side is soldered to the upper left through hole.  Additionally, the positive lead of the lithium battery holder is placed in the same upper left through hole.  The negative terminal of the battery holder is soldered into the center larger through hole located along the large ground trace (bottom perimeter of board).<br>
  
−
Another less common issue is the connection between the lamp socket's solder lug (insulated wire to the driver board connects here), and the back tip of the socket (what moves out/in and is spring loaded to hold bulb in place).  What you can do here is to move the insulated wire off of the lamp socket's solder lug and solder it directly to the back of the socket tip.  This eliminates any potential connection issues with the solder lug/tab and the back pin.
+
Once the battery holder is installed, install the battery.  A CR2032 lithium battery was used in this case.  Once the battery is installed, use a voltmeter to make certain that the battery voltage is getting to the 5101 RAM chips.  Place the black lead of the voltmeter on any of the ground traces, and the red lead on pin 22 of U8 and U13.  A reading of ~3vdc should be seen.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Before soldering onto a socket, either the barrel or the spring terminal, it must be sanded or filed clean or the solder will not stick.  Paste flux or the crystal clear flux solder recommended above will help.  If you have a temperature controlled soldering station crank it up above what you would normally use for boardwork to about 800 degrees.
+
=====Memory Capacitor=====
 +
[[File:Cap_install.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Prepping an MPU Board for Memory Cap Installation]]
 +
[[File:Bally -17 Mem Cap.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Alternate method for installing a memory cap. Negative lead is tack soldered to perimeter ground plane.  -17 board shown in pic.]]<br><br>
 +
Remove original battery, neutralize and clean any corrosion left behind/inspect parts in area, replace as needed.  Drill a small hole to the left of the original batteries' negative terminal.  Install the capacitor with the negative lead in the leftmost hole of the negative terminal, soldering it into place.  Solder a lead to the positive terminal of the capacitor and bend the leg over to help hold it in place.  Solder the other end of the lead to either the positive hole from the original battery, or to the bottom lead of R12.  Double check your work in reference to the negative lead of the capacitor.  Turn the machine on an let the capacitor charge for around 1/2 - 1 hour.  Once the cap is charged, turning the machine on for about 1/2 hour a month will keep it topped up.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
[[File:Fixing_Lamps.jpg|800px|center|thumb]]
+
=====Original style battery or cordless phone battery=====
 +
:Remove original battery, neutralize and clean any corrosion left behind/inspect parts in area, replace as needed. Solder new battery in, or better yet, attach fly leads to battery and remote mount.  Installing leads long enough for the battery to rest inside the cabinet versus the backbox is optimal.  Sealing the battery inside a Ziploc bag is another good idea.  Turn machine on for large initial charge to battery. Note that NiCad batteries will leak, just like the original batteries that were used on the MPU. Lithium batteries will be less prone to leaking.
 +
<br clear=all>
  
−
Another issue is the multiple lamp mounting boards/brackets like those used in Stern Big Game, Meteor, and others.  The lamp sockets are riveted to these mounting boards and are not replaceable.  These mounting boards suffer from a bad connection to the bare controlled lamp wire running under the playfield. You can either solder each lamp barrel to the base plate or run a daisy chain wire from barrel to barrel to help fix issues with the sockets.
+
====Repairing Alkaline Damage ====
 +
Should a leaky battery damage your MPU, the first decision to make is this: is the board worth repairing? The extent of the alkaline damage combined with your PCB repair skills, the value you place on your time, and the quality of the result you want to obtain may drive you to replace the board entirely with either an OEM board or one of several aftermarket replacements. Alkaline cleanup, component sourcing and replacement, and socketing troublesome old IC sockets can take 3 to 8 hours.
  
−
Again, lamp sockets need to be sanded (200 grit works well) or filed before solder will stick. (see picture, below)
+
Should you decide to repair the board, component kits to replace everything in the "corrosion zone" are available from several sources for about $10.  
  
−
[[File:Lamp_Mounting_Brackets.jpg|800px|center|thumb]]
+
Note: Most alkaline damage repair kits do not include the L1 and L2 inductors which are often damaged. Since these inductors are so small in value, simply replace them with a jumper.
  
−
If your lamp is always stuck on usually the SCR driving it is bad.  Bally/Stern use two different SCR to control lamps.  MCR106 is able to drive up to two lamps at the same time.  The smaller 2n5060 will only drive one lamp.  These SCRs do fail from over sinking of current, from old blackened bulbs (which draw more current) or from being shorted to something under the playfield carrying a high voltage (solenoids).  If you accidentally short several lamps together, this would cause the SCR to fail also.
+
Once you've decided to proceed, to neutralize alkaline, you need an acid.  The most common way to accomplish this is to wash the affected area of the board with a mild vinegar solution (50% vinegar to 50% water).  Use a toothbrush to scrub the board's affected area and outside the affected area, front and back.  After scrubbing, rinse the board with water, then use isopropyl alcohol (the highest percentage you can get - 99% or 91%) in a wave action down the board to displace the water.  Let the board air dry, or use a hair dryer without heat to speed the drying process.
  
−
If you are in a bind it is possible to use the more robust MCR106 in place of a 2n5060 with one caveat.  Two legs of the MCR106 SCR need to be reversed to be used as a replacement for a 2n5060.  As you are looking at the board the top and middle leg of the MCR106 need to be reversed. (see picture, below)
+
After the board is dry, replace any components that were affected by the corrosion damage.  The parts will be harder to remove and solder as the combination of corrosion and cleaning makes the solder difficult to heat.  Adding new solder before desoldering will help in this process, as will boosting your temperature controlled soldering station up by about 50 degrees.  Be careful as the pads are very fragile at this point and can lift easily.
  
−
[[File:Mcr106_subbed_for_2n5060.jpg|800px|center|thumb]]
+
Alternate methods of cleaning the affected areas include bead blasting, and sanding.  If the damage is very slight, sanding might work best but you remove all the conformal coating when you do so (that's the green masking material applied to the traces on the board).  You have to either replace this coating, or use an alternate material to protect the bare traces from oxidation. Clear nail polish has been used to do this, but isn't a great substitute.  You can also tin the affected traces with new solder which will protect the copper.  It is also possible to purchase conformal coating but it is toxic and messy to work with.  **** Note when sanding your MPU you should wear a mask.  The board has glass fibers that are bad for the lungs.
−
** note ** a 2n5060 CAN NOT be used instead of a MCR106
 
  
−
Still can't get your controlled lamp to light up and you're sure it's wired up right and getting power?  A lamp that never lights might be a bad SCR that needs to be replaced or the connection that runs from the lamp board to the lamp.  Use your DMM on continuity test to follow the path from the SCR to the lamp itself to find out if it is a connector issue.
+
Bead blasting is a technique that uses small glass beads on a sand-blaster type setup to blast away the corrosion.  Again, the conformal coating is removed and should be replaced.  Some critics of the bead blasting technique indicate that the corrosion actually gets embedded in the board by this method; however, it is an accepted repair practice in electronics repair.  Most people do not have the equipment needed to do this.
  
−
On some lamp boards there are buffer and decoder chips.  A bad buffer or decoder chip can prevent a lamp from lighting.  If you have multiple lamps out and you have tested the wiring for each, look back to the chips to see if the lamps out have a chip in common.  (Refer to the games' schematics)  If so, and you have tested the SCR's as good, the chip is probably bad.  The .100 headers on the lamp driver boards are subject to a lot of stress and should be resoldered to ensure there are no hairline cracks in the connectors.
+
Regardless of the method used, any bare copper traces should be at minimum tinned with solder.  Often after removing the components, you will need to sand the remaining pad to get a good soldering surface.  A small fiberglass sanding pen is ideal for this purpose (available at auto parts stores).  It allows precise sanding on small surfaces. Sand right before you solder as copper starts to oxidize immediately.  Use a can of compressed air to blow any fiberglass particles out of your work area and be careful using the fiberglass pen as the fibers will become embedded in your skin causing irritation. Wear eye protection as well as you really do not want these particles flying into your eyes!
  
 +
Use a meter to test your work, following point by point as you replace components to ensure you have a clean circuit path.  Add jumpers as needed, and solder replaced components top and bottom to ensure good via continuity.  Use a high quality socket when you replace the 5101 ram and be very careful around this area, as it is right next to the battery zone and is usually heavily damaged.  All of the traces in this area are part of the address and data bus for all the roms, pias, and cpu, so any shorts or damage here will affect the rest of the board.
  
−
All Controlled lamps not working:
+
Finally, remember also that the alkaline will travel both down and up from the original position of the battery.  Inspect the lamp driver board (right below the MPU) to ensure it hasn't become corroded also.  If the corrosion was really bad, inspect the J4 connector on the MPU too. Corrosion will travel into the wires in this connector.  If this has happened, you <b>must</b> cut the wires back far enough so the corrosion is not seen; otherwise it will leach back into your board and continue to spread through the wiring harness.  Hopefully, the harness will still have enough slack to make it to the J4 connector.  If not, you can extend the wires neatly by soldering and heat-shrinking new wires onto the harness.  Having a parts machine to pull this type of wiring from enables you to match closely the wire markings so prevent confusion in the future.
  
−
Could be rectifier board connectors, bad lamp bridge rectifier, or fuse blown.
+
Another thing about the J4 connector is that on most boards the two ground pins only connect from the top of the board.  If battery corrosion made it to that connector it is a good idea to add a jumper on the solder side of the board from J4 Pin 18 and 19 to ground that runs along the outside of the board.
  
−
Dim controlled lamps:
+
<center>
−
 
+
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption="Bally/Stern MPU Alkaline Damage Abatement">
−
The biggest cause of dim controlled lamps is a weak connection via the power chain's connectors. The original lamp driver bridge rectifier is slightly undersized on the rectifier board at 8 amps; either changing to #47 bulbs can alleviate some of the load placed on this bridge, or it can be upgraded to a larger capacity (25 amp-up). Changing the header pins on the rectifier board to a 10 amp capable pin plus changing the connector pins will help the power chain. Application of a dielectric to prevent oxidation can help prevent new pins from prematurely wearing out, but do not apply any chemical to old, tarnished pins.
+
File:BallyMPUAlkalineCleanedUpFront.jpg|<center><b>The front side of a Stern MPU-200 with alkaline damage removed.</b></center>
−
 
+
File:BallyMPUAlkalineCleanedUpBack.jpg|<center><b>The back side of a Stern MPU-200 with alkaline damage removed.</b></center>
−
The fuse clips on the rectifier board can get tarnished, too. Replacement with high current phosphor-bronze clips will help dimming issues.  The less resistance in the power chain the better and brighter your lamps will be.
+
File:BallyMPUAlkalineCleanedUpCorner.jpg|<center><b>An MPU-200, "corrosion zone" cleaned up.</b></center>
 +
File:Corrosion_Cleaned_MPU.JPG|<center><b>A Bally -17 MPU, "corrosion zone" cleaned up.</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
  
−
===Switch problems===
+
===== Alkaline Corrosion Area Parts List=====
−
[[File:Bally Stern switch matrix.png|thumb|left|300px|Bally / Stern 5 x 8 Switch Matrix]]<br><br><br><br><br><br>
+
[[File:CorrosionArea.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally/Stern Corrosion Area Parts List|link=https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/f/f5/-17and-35MPUComponentListForPinWiki.pdf]]<br>
−
 
+
Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a .pdf file detailing parts used in the alkaline corrosion zone for Bally and Stern MPUs. The original parts "skeleton layout" was done by Ed at [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com Great Plains Electronics].
−
Bally/Stern games use a switch matrix arranged as a 5x8 matrix for a total capability of 40 switches.  Some games (Medusa, Spectrum, and others) have a sixth column of switches making a total of 48 switches in a 6x8 matrix.  This guide will concentrate on the "normal" 5x8 matrix but the information applies also to the 6x8 matrix; the sixth column signal wire is merely in a different location, and for switch matrix troubleshooting purposes the information is interchangeable.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
Columns 0 and 1 are shared by the playfield and cabinet switches.  Any problems with switches in these columns can be further diagnosed by disconnecting the J2 connector (playfield) or J3 connector (cabinet) to isolate the playfield, cabinet, or both from switch tests.  Switch test on Bally/Stern machines is entered by pressing the self-test button on the coin door 4 or 5 times, depending on the game. The stock software in each game only shows the lowest switch number that's closed; multiple closures or an entire row/column closed will still only show the lowest switch number. (There is a special test rom available that will walk through all the closed switches one at a time).
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
Start a switch diagnostic test by removing all balls from a game and placing all drop targets into an upright position. Enter switch test and you should have a zero flashing on the match display, signifying no closed switches. Use the chart from the manual in your game if you see a closed switch to investigate why it's showing closed.<br>
+
==== Using the Dallas/Maxim DS1811 Reset Generator on Bally and Stern MPUs ====
 +
Like the [[Gottlieb_System_80#Using_a_Reset_Generator_for_the_CPU_Reset_Section| technique]] employed to repair alkaline damage on Gottlieb System 80 MPUs, the Dallis/Maxim DS1811 reset generator may be used on Bally and Stern MPUs also. The DS1811-10 has a typical trip point of 4.35VDC. You may also use the Microchip Technology equivalent, part number [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCP130-460DI%2FTO MCP130-460DI/TO], available from Great Plains Electronics.  
  
−
Probable reasons for a stuck switch are:
+
Unlike Gottlieb System 80 MPUs, using the DS1811 on Bally and Stern boards doesn't save you much work. It replaces only 10 easily sourced components. And since you've done the hard work of cleaning up the alkaline damage already, using the DS1811 isn't really worth the trouble. But, if you'd like to use the DS1811, the procedure is described below.
  
−
* points or blades adjusted too closely/touching
+
After you've cleaned up the alkaline damage, replace all components except these 10:
−
* switch diode touching lamps/other wiring
+
*VR1
−
* solder splashes/conductive debris on a switch
+
*R1, R2, and R3
−
* shorted switch capacitor, if used<br>
+
*R112
 +
*R138, R139, and R140
 +
*Q1 and Q5
  
−
Here is where disconnecting the playfield will help.  If you disconnect the switch connector for the playfield from the MPU board (J2) and the stuck switch stays, you know the problem is not on the playfield.  If the switch is in column 0 or 1, you might have a problem with the switch matrix going to the cabinet.  It is common for switches on the coin door to become mangled, either being stuck closed or shorted to the coin door in some way.  You can disconnect the coin door separately while in switch test to see if the switch faults clear.<br>
+
With the board oriented as it would be in the game (J5 at top), install a jumper from the top through-hole of where R139 was, to the bottom through-hole of where R138 was.
  
−
If you disconnect both J2 and J3 isolating all switches in the game from the MPU board, you should always see the flashing 0 indicating no switches closed in switch test.  If you do not, there is a board fault that should be investigated and corrected.  All of the signals for pulsing and reading the switch matrix originate and terminate at the U10 6821 PIA chip. As a quick test for this chip, you can swap it with the U11 PIA to see if the problem's symptoms change. If they do or the switch matrix starts to work correctly, you have a probably failed PIA chip and should replace it.  Be aware that the U11 PIA chip controls the solenoids in the game, so if the U10 chip is bad in any way, you might have locked on solenoids causing more damage if your fuse doesn't blow.  Before swapping the PIA chips, remove the solenoid driver board's .156 connectors to the solenoids to prevent damage.  You could also just remove the J4 connector that feeds the solenoid driver board's input signals.  (Lower right connector on the SDB).<br>
+
There are several ways to form the legs of the DS1811 for a Bally or Stern MPU. However, with the flat side of the DS1811 facing left (i.e. at J4), the legs of the DS1811 should be placed in the prior location of Q5 such that:
  
−
Sometimes due to wiring error a switch diode is reversed in the switch matrix, either from previous repair work, or even from the factory.  When this happens, you will see the wrong switch closing.  Test for this by entering switch test and activating each switch one at a time referencing the switch chart in the manual, ensuring that each switch reports the correct switch number.  This means that each drop bank will need to be reset by hand after each drop target test.  If the game in question has a spinner, test the spinner with the playfield down and then place a piece of paper between its switch points so testing other switches with the playfield up doesn't show a false positive on the spinner from movement.<br>
+
*Pin 3 of reset generator (top pin) is where the upper, right lead of where Q5 was
 +
*Pin 2 of reset generator (middle pin) is where the lower, right lead of Q5 was
 +
*Pin 1 of reset generator (bottom pin) is where the left lead of Q5 was
  
−
Momentary contact switches will sometimes have a switch capacitor installed.  The purpose of this capacitor is to ensure the MPU board "sees" very quick hits to a tilt, pop bumper, sling, or standup target. Switch capacitors should not be installed on rollover, saucer, spinner, outhole, or trough switches.  There are a few games that do have capacitors installed on these switches.  You can cut these off safely and not worry about replacing them.<br>
+
Add a 1K, 1/4W resistor from pin 1 of the reset generator to +5VDC. This signal can be picked up conveniently at the banded end of CR5 (a 1N4148 diode).
  
−
A symptom of a failed (shorted) switch capacitor will be a stuck switch showing in the switch test, and no scoring/scoring once/multiple repeated scoring in gameplay. As a test, you can cut one leg of the capacitor off a suspect switch and see if the problem goes away. If it does, the capacitor was probably bad and you can replace it. (A 0.047 mfd 16 volt or higher non-polarized ceramic disc replacement works well.)<br>
+
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=300px heights=200px perrow=2 caption="Using the Dallas/Maxim 1811 Reset Generator">
 +
File:MPU200DallasReset.jpg|An MPU-200 MPU with alkaline damage abated, and reset components replaced with the DS1811 reset generator.
 +
File:MPU200DallasResetAnnotated.jpg|The same image, but with the single jumper indicated (yellow dot), where to install the DS1811 flat side facing left, and the added 1K resistor.
 +
File:Placeholder.jpg|Illustrated picture of components to remove, keep, and jumpers to add.
 +
File:MPU200DallasResetCloseup.jpg|Closeup of the DS1811 equivalent installed.
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
One could also use The MCP100-460-DI/TO although there are a some variations from the DS-1811.
  
−
Quick hits to switches that do not have capacitors installed can have a capacitor installed to improve performance, or if you have a pop or sling that activates when hit but does not score.  You can add the 0.047 mfd capacitor to these switches on the two lugs that do not have the diode installed; one end of the capacitor goes to the blade lug that has one end of the diode but not the matrix wiring, and the other end of the capacitor goes to the switch lug that only has the matrix wires without the diode.  If you do add a capacitor to a sling or pop bumper, be aware that it is possible for radio frequency interference from a coil's collapsing magnetic field to be picked up by the capacitor, causing the switch to activate.  This is most common with flipper coils - holding a flipper up and releasing generates a short pulse of radio frequency static.<br>
+
The following need to be removed (or not replaced)
 +
*VR1
 +
*R1, R2, and R3
 +
*R112
 +
*R138, and R140
 +
*Q1 and Q5
 +
The difference here is that R139 is left intact.
  
−
It is good preventative maintenance on machines that have switch capacitors to methodically replace each and every one with a new one. Adding a switch capacitor to pops and slings is a good idea also as you can run a slightly larger switch gap on the activation switches, which helps to prevent switch bounce and repeat, unwanted, activations.
+
Jumper R2 & R3.
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
 +
Add a 1N4148 diode. Anode to anode of CR7, cathode (banded end) to "left" hole of R140. The CR7 anode hole is large enough to accommodate both diode leads without trouble.
  
−
=====Leaf Switch Theory,Operation and Adjustment=====
+
The MCP100 is added in the Q1 (not Q2) location.
  
−
Leaf switches in pinball games come in 4 formats: Normally Open (N.O.), Normally Closed (N.C.), Break-Make, & Make-Make, the last 2 of which are really combinations of a N.O. and/or a N.C. switch. Regardless of their function, all switches are in fact, a N.O. or N.C. type.
+
With the flat side of the part facing and the leads pointing down, the leads are from left to right, RESET, V (+5v), and Ground.
  
−
Leaf switches in electronic games are of 2 compositions,at least 2 bronze blades each holding a gold flashed contact or a Tungsten contact. Since gold is a very high conductor of electricity, it is used on most switches, with the exception of the flipper cabinet and End of Stroke (EOS) contacts, which are tungsten. Gold will not tarnish or turn black, but sometimes gets dirty from solenoid dust, and this may effect its conductivity. Tungsten flipper contacts must be redressed with an ignition-type flat file as used in automotive repair, as the contacts are too hard to be smoothed by sandpaper or flex file abrasive. Gold flashed contacts must NEVER be cleaned with a file or sandpaper. A business card, or thin cardboard, is all that is necessary to clean electronic gold flashed contacts. If they seems to have a foreign substance on them, a Q-Tip with a degreaser like Mean Green, or alcohol can be used and then wiped off. Contact cleaner must NOT be sprayed liberally on the switch, but can be applied with a swab.
+
*V (+5v) the middle lead, is soldered in the "top" hole, close to the now occupied hole of R140
 +
*RESET in the left most hole
 +
*Ground in the bottom most hole (which clearly goes to ground)
  
−
=====Normally Open (N.O.) Switch=====
+
This solution is slightly less messy because it does not require the "floating" 1K resistor.
−
[[file:SwitchNormallyOpen.jpg|thumb|left|Normally Open Switch in resting state]][[file:GenericSchematicSwitchDiagram.jpg|thumb|right|Schematic rendering of N.O. & N.C. switches]]
 
−
This is a leaf switch that has 2 contacts that complete a circuit when pushed closed by some mechanical device. The switch re-opens when the device moves away from the moveable contact, and the springiness of the blade opens the circuit.<br clear=all>
 
  
−
=====Normally Closed (N.C.)Switch=====
+
===MPU boot issues===
−
[[file:SwitchNormallyClosedLabelled.jpg|thumb|left|Normally Closed (N.C.) switch in resting state with optional nylon spacer]]
+
Non-booting Bally/Stern MPU boards fall into a couple different categories. If the board's LED is good and turns off at bootup, you're part of the way there. Refer to the flash sequence section to figure out where your issue lies to narrow down the problem area.<br>
−
This type of switch opens a circuit when a mechanical device pushes against the blade. <br clear=all>
 
  
−
=====Break-Make switch=====
+
You must have a good set of roms in a game as well as a known good working 6800 cpu chip. Suspect any sockets that have a brown color or closed frame - often the spring tension on these sockets is poor necessitating replacement. Be very careful soldering on the mpu boards as the traces and pads are very fragile.<br>
−
[[file:SwitchMakeBreakLabelled.jpg|thumb|left|Break-Make switch in resting state]]
 
−
This switch is really a composite of a N.O. and a N.C. switch with just three blades instead of four. The moveable center blade has contacts on BOTH sides. Proper adjustment insures that when a device moves the center blade towards the open contact, the CLOSED switch OPENS BEFORE the center contact touches the open switch’s contact. When the pressure is released, the center blade returns to its N.C. side and re-makes contact. This type of switch is often used on relays. A Make-Break switch is really the same, just upside-down, or in reverse, of the order of actions of a Break-Make switch. Special care should be taken with a Make-Break switch that the three blades are at not time shorted together. This can happen often when the blade stiffener is maladjusted, and contacts the other blade of the pair.<br clear=all>
 
  
−
=====Make-Make switch=====
+
A "cheat sheet" comprised of the signals and pinouts for the primary chips and all of the header connections used with a Bally -35 MPU board is available [[Media:Bally_MPU_Board.pdf | here]].  The PDF is specifically for a -35 board, however, Bally -17 and Stern M100 boards are similar. The obvious differences are the ROM jumper settings and connection J5 (J5 on a -35 board has one more pin).  
−
[[file:SwitchMakeMakeLabelled.jpg|thumb|left|Make-Make switch in resting state]]
 
−
A make-make switch is a composite switch consisting of two N.O. switches using only 3 blades. When mechanical pressure is applied to the blade, the switch “makes” or closes the circuit, and continues to move until a second switch contact is closed, tying all 3 blades together.<br clear=all>
 
  
−
=====Adjusting Switch Gaps=====
+
====LED locked on====
 +
Remove all ICs except for U6, U9, U11, and U2 if it is a Stern.  Leon's test rom is recommended for tricky MPUs.  This allows you to leave out U11 and check most address and data lines.
  
−
Proper switch clearance gaps are crucial for correct operation of any pinball game. Very many problems in games come down to a problem with incorrect operation of a switch. The switch blades are made up of phosphor bronze, which has high conductivity, resilience to form and excellent soldering characteristics, but has the drawback of being brittle compared to copper. Switch blades therefore, are commonly broken by the game, or careless actions by the repair person. A switch adjusting tool, purchased or homemade, is a necessity. Pliers or screwdrivers might be used in special circumstances, or in extremis, but are not best practice.
+
Short pins 40 and 39 momentarily on the cpu chip; after doing so, see if the LED goes off.  If it does, concentrate your efforts on repairing the reset circuit as it's not holding the reset low on powerup for the minimum required 50 milliseconds. If it doesn't, it's best to pull the board from the machine and put it on the bench, using the benchtop power supply details to keep working on the board outside the machine.
  
−
Switches in games are designed to have a degree of over-travel, which creates a wiping motion that helps clean the switch. The contacts must meet, stay together and slide across the face of the contact slightly, to be perfectly adjusted. They also must be gapped wide enough that they do not bounce, causing multiple switch closures. This problem is seen often in electronic games, when the rapid nature of the switch closures cause machine-gunning of the slingshots .  
+
Ensure that Q2 and the LED itself are working properly (i.e. the board may be booting but the LED provides no indication). Pin 39 of the 6821 PIA at U11 drives the LED. Probing pin 39 and finding it pulsing indicates that the MPU is booting (or at least partially booting) and that R28 (8.2K), R29 (470), Q2 (2n3904), or the LED itself has failed.
  
−
Before adjusting switches, make certain the screws holding the switch stacks are down tightly. Bakelite spacers in the switch stacks, due to excessive moisture, have occasionally shrunk by drying out, causing poor adjustment.  After tightening a switch stack, be sure to recheck the gap of each switch.
+
An easy quick test for the reset section is putting your DMM on pin 40 of the cpu. It should read 5v, and in most cases if it does the reset is good.  Attach a logic probe to the output of Q5 - on power on, you should see this circuit start low and then go high approximately 50 milliseconds later.  If it goes high immediately, at a minimum replace Q5, then Q1.  Make sure the 2 watt resistor is not leaning on Q5.  The heat can kill the transistor.
  
−
To adjust a leaf switch, first make sure the switch stack of bakelite or plastic spacers and blades are tightly packed against each other by giving the 2 screws a twist of your screwdriver. As long as there is no screw movement with reasonable pressure, you can procede. Some switches have a regular nut on the backside instead of a speednut, which will require holding it as you turn.
+
Next put the probe on U9 pin 3, 36, and 37 to see if you get pulsing - these are all clock signals and you should see pulsing on all 3 pins. If you have an oscilloscope you can visually see the signals, or even on a multimeter, the voltage will show between 2.5-2.9 volts.  If you see zero volts or 5 volts, your clock signal is bad.  The CPU could be dragging down the clock.  Remove U9 and see if the clock signal is now good.  When clock signal is bad suspect U15 or U16.  Also check C15 and C14.  U15 is failed most often.
  
−
Using your switch adjusting tool, put twisting pressure on the moveable switch blade as close to the switch stack as possible, and include the blade stiffener(if present) in the adjuster slot. Try to use as little force and change of gap as possible, and incrementally reach your gap goal. Using too much force and a back and forth gap readjustment, tends to bend and weaken the switch blade, and can make a deformed switch blade difficult to set for correct operation. This is often seen in games that have been “hacked”, and sometimes the only way to remedy the situation is to replace the entire switch, or disassemble it entirely. Cycle and recycle the mechanical device that activates the switch and observe the switch for proper gap, wiping action and release.
+
Check U9 Pin 2. This is the HALT line. You should see 5v, if not replace U9
  
−
=====Recommended Gap Specifications=====
+
Check U9 Pin 5.  This is the VMA line.  It is a pulsing signal and reads about 2.8v with a DMM.  If incorrect first try a new U9.  Next check U14D, U15C, U19B.  U15 is the most likely IC to have failed.
 +
 
 +
Still locked on?  After double checking all your jumper changes, roms, and rams in another board if possible, time to start suspecting other issues such as bad sockets, traces, or addressing chips.  Bad sockets are quite common.
 +
 
 +
====Reset Circuit====
 +
The purpose of the reset circuit is to ensure the +5 vdc is stable before allowing the system to start.  At startup, the reset signal is held low via pull-down resistor R139 until the +12 vdc line rises above the zener diode VR1's value (8.2 or 9.1 volts depending on your board).  At this time, the input voltage threshold for the +5 regulator on the solenoid driver board has been met with some headroom.  Q1 starts conducting, turning on Q5, which provides the actual reset signal.  All of this happens in approximately 50 milliseconds.<br>
 +
 
 +
Most of the reset circuit is in the corrosion zone (lower left corner of the mpu board) and consists of most of the components commonly included in "repair kits".  If the reset circuit is not working, the LED will not turn off.  If Q1 or Q5 fails, conducting all the time, the cpu chip will never come out of reset.<br>
  
−
Kicking rubber, or slingshot switches usually have a generous gap, at least 1/16", due to the rubber ring pushing back against the switch, and a bit of trial and error will be necessary to find the ideal gap setting. Pop bumper switches and scoring “dead” bumper switches, should have a gap of 1/64" for the actuating switch under the spoon, and a 1/32" gap for the score switch when open. Flipper cabinet switch have a generous gap which can be adjusted to suit the owner of the machine to provide a good "feel". All other types of switches will probably function well with a 1/32" gap, and this would be a starting point, modifying the gap on a case by case basis.
+
The reset circuit continuously monitors the +12 volt line; if it falls below VR1's threshold voltage, the game will reset.  If a Bally/Stern game is resetting, concentrate on why the +12 volts is dropping below 8.2/9.1 volts.  (VR1 sets the threshold at which the reset signal turns on, and also when it would turn off in a rebooting scenario.)<br> 
  
−
=====The Importance of Diodes and Capacitors on Switches=====
+
Note that Q1 and Q5 actually form a switching power regulator for the reset signal only. The normal +5 supplied to the rest of the board is derived entirely from the solenoid driver board's regulator. The reset signal regulated power is used to charge the battery, provide the reset signal, and to power the 5101 chip(s) on the board. Normal +5 vdc is blocked from entering the reset circuit by the 1N4148 diode CR7.  Diode CR5 (1N4148) blocks the battery voltage from powering the entire board via CR7.<br>
−
[[file:DiodeOrientation.jpg|thumb|left]]
 
−
[[file:Ceramic_Capacitor.jpg|thumb|right| A ceramic capacitor of the type used on switch. '''NOTE:''' The number is NOT the correct value for switches.  Use 0.047 mfd for replacement]]
 
−
On all Bally and Stern solid-state (SS) pinball games, there '''MUST''' be a diode connected to each pair of switch blades. The diode’s purpose is to isolate the switch from the other switches in the switch matrix.  A shorted or reversed diode will cause the MPU to read the strobe signal on the wrong return line, causing a switch read error.  
 
  
−
Bally (and Stern) used a matrix of 5 columns (strobes, designated 0-4) and 8 rows (returns, designated 0-7) allowing for 40 switches.  Some Bally games have a sixth column allowing for 48 total switches.  The sixth column games re-use a signal pin from the earlier games that was the sound board address "E" pin.  Stern uses this same pin for the 7th digit enable on their displays, and never used it for their sound boards.  No Stern game has a sixth column of switches.
+
====Bally / Stern MPU Board LED Never Lights or is Locked On====
 +
If the LED never lights, either the +12v (TP2, J4 pin 12) is missing or the LED is bad.  By default, the LED is ON until the software tells U11 to turn it OFF.<br>
  
−
You can use a 1N4148, 1N916, or 1N4004 (or better) interchangeably. Bally specifies 1N4148 and Stern 1N4004 as original.
+
If the LED lights solid, there's some digging to do.  First off, if the board has any corrosion damage at all, it needs to be cleaned and neutralized before attempting any repairs. While shot-gunning components might fix the board, it won't be 100% reliable if the corrosion isn't addressed.<br>
  
−
=====Switch Capacitor Purpose and Failure=====
+
Make sure you are getting a solid power path from the rectifier board through the solenoid driver / power regulator board to the MPU board.  A locked on LED can be caused by a poor connection anywhere in this chain.  Sometimes reseating connector J4 on the MPU board (lower left) will 'clean' a connector well enough to make a better connection.  While this may be a short term fix, be aware that any connector, which seems to work better after being reseated, really should be repinned and have its header pins replaced.<br>
  
−
Capacitors are used on switches that are normally subjected to very quick hits, to lengthen the switch pulse that the MPU reads. Not all switches will have capacitors; standups, pop bumpers, slings, and tilt mechanisms are the usual ones that benefit from them.  All switches that need a quick reaction can have switch capacitors added to them (such as rollover buttons). These are ceramic non-polarized capacitors of a value of .047 or .050 uf and 16 volts or greater. A commonly available cap is the .047 uf 50 volt through Mouser P/N 140-50U5-473M-RC.
+
Next, put your DMM or a logic probe on pin 40 of the 6800 cpu chip (U9).  Power on the board.  You should see the voltage remain low / at zero, and then approx 1/10 of a second later, rise to about +5 vdc (high).  This is the reset signal, which originates from the components in the lower left corner of the board, and is sent throughout the board to U9, U10, and U11.  What the reset section (called the 'valid power detector') does is not allow the MPU to boot until the +12 volts are stable over the value of ZR1 (a zener diode, usually either 8.2 or 9.1 volts). This delay ensures that the +5 voltage is stable enough to run the MPU board reliably (the +5 volts is derived from the +12 volts on the solenoid driver / power regulator board).<br>
  
−
The factory installed caps are often damaged by the high wattage industrial soldering irons used in manufacturing the games, or they succumb to the vibration over time and no longer serve their purpose of lengthening the switch closures so the MPU can read them. Often a repairman will clip the cap off to diagnose a stuck switch problem and not bother to replace it. The switch will operate in this fashion, but for more sensitive play, the capacitor should be replaced. A failing cap can also make a switch bounce, and cause machine-gunning of a slingshot or pop bumper.
+
The 6800 CPU chip will not 'unlock' and start program execution until it sees a transition from a low (0 volts) to high (~5 volts) signal.  This is the purpose of the power on reset delay.  The reset delay and signal must be present at all three of the reset inputs at U9 (pin 40), U10 (pin 34), and U11 (pin 34).  If the signal starts out immediately at a high level, the MPU will not start to boot until the transition takes place. If you have a locked on MPU, you can take a screwdriver or your meter probe and short pins 39 and 40 together for a brief moment on U9.  If the game starts to boot after doing this, it's a safe assumption that the reset circuit is to blame. Shorting the pins together simulates what the reset circuit does.<br>
  
−
Sometimes the operation of the flippers or other solenoids will cause a phantom switch close on a pop bumper or slingshot - this is due to the way the software reads the fast react switches on those mechanisms.  The RF produced by the flipper coil's collapsing EMF field is picked up by the switch capacitor, causing the pop or sling to fire.  In most cases, no score is added, the mechanism just operates.  Keeping the leads short on the switch capacitors might reduce their tendency to pick up this stray RF in the machine.
+
If you need to rebuild the reset circuit, full kits are available from specialty suppliers such as Great Plains Electronics or Big Daddy Enterprises.  The kits include all replacement components in the corrosion zone.  Bare bones component replacements are Q1 (2n3904 or 2n4401) and Q5 (2n4403 or 2n3906), but it is a good idea to go ahead and replace all the parts that come in the kit.  Replace components one at a time to ensure that you do not mix any up.  Note there are some components that are polarized in their installation, which include VR1, CR5, Q1, and Q5.  Look carefully at the board to see if there are traces on the top and bottom of a component.  The continuity at a through hole can be compromised due to alkaline corrosion.  Therefore, it is recommended to solder these components from the top and bottom of the board to ensure that a good connection is maintained.<br>
  
−
=====Proper Location of Wiring, Diodes, & Capacitors=====
+
The following is the list of parts for the reset section that should be replaced. Parts listed with more than one type are equivalent and can be substituted freely. It is also possible that the inductors L1 and L2 need to be replaced as well, however this is very rare. If there is heavy corrosion on them they should be replaced.<br><br>
−
Color coded wiring of the playfield switches will vary by game model and manufacturer, but the following should hold true for any Bally or Stern game made from at least 1977 to 1985 . Switches may have two or three lugs, depending on function. If the switch has 3 lugs, one of them is a '''DEAD LUG''', which is electrically isolated from the other switch blades and ground. It may be that the dead lug is off to the side, or positioned the same as the other lug, and it may be difficult to visually verify which is the dead lug. The Dead Lug does not have a blade. The purpose of the dead lug is to have a isolated soldering point for the '''COLUMN''' wire(s) and the '''NON-banded''' (anode) end of the diode.
 
−
[[file:BallySwitchwithDiode.jpg|thumb|left|Switch capacitor is wired as shown, some switches will not have one.]]
 
−
[[file:SternSwitchwithDiodeCapac.jpg|thumb|right|A stand up target with capacitor & diode]]
 
−
A 3 lug switch will have the following connections.
 
  
−
* A switch capacitor (if required) between the 2 switch blades.
+
'''Transistors:'''
−
* A '''ROW''' wire(s), (with a capacitor leg, if needed) to one end of either switch blade
 
−
* A '''COLUMN''' wire (usually daisy chained) plus the NON-banded end of the diode to the DEAD LUG
 
−
* The '''BANDED''' (cathode) end of the diode to the opposing switch blade, either by itself, or sharing the lug with a leg of the capacitor
 
  
−
Remember that switches are usually daisy-chained together, so except for the last switch in a group, there will be a common COLUMN wire (sometimes NOT insulated) between each switch, along with the NON-banded diode. Any break is this wire will cause all the switches below it to not function. Keep in mind that the schematics show a logic progression of switches which may or may not match the physical chain under the playfield. A failed or leaky diode can only be tested for by desoldering one end of the diode & checking with the diode test function of your multimeter. It is very little more work to just simply replace the diode with new if it is suspected.<br clear=all>
+
Q1 - 2N3904/2N4401 (lower left area)
  
−
=====Troubleshooting multi- ball games that will not start=====
+
Q2 - 2N3904/2N4401 (near LED)
  
−
Bally produced multi-ball games which require ALL balls to be in the correct position before a game will start. If a pinball is stuck on the playfield, missing, or the switch does not register, is broken or maladjusted, then the game will not start. The symptoms each game shows varies. After the game boots, a few insert lights may flash repeatedly, or the game will not coin up, the general illumination will not light and credits will not count down, etc. Check the chart below for specific games.
+
Q5 - 2N3906/2N4403 (lower left area)<br><br>
  
−
These switches can be checked in the game diagnostic switch test see if they are stuck closed, or manually operated to see if they register. Remember that only the LOWEST number closed switch will appear on the display, so if other switches are closed or have a fault, they must be cleared to check for the higher switch number.
+
'''Diodes:'''
  
−
{| class="wikitable"
+
VR1 - zener 1N9598/1N4738A
−
|-
+
 
−
! Game
+
CR44 - 1N4004 rectifier diode
−
! # of balls
+
 
−
! Symptoms
+
CR5, CR7 - 1N4148 switching diode
−
! Check switch
+
 
−
|-align=center
+
CR8 - LED<br><br>
−
| Centaur
+
 
−
| 5
+
'''Capacitors:'''
−
| All zeros on; displays flicker
+
 
−
| #01 Ball trough 4
+
C1, C2 - 820pF ceramic capacitor
−
#02 Ball trough 5
+
 
−
#08 Outhole (will start with #01 or #02)
+
C3 - 0.01uF ceramic capacitor
−
|-align=center
+
 
−
| Elektra
+
C5 - 4.7uF tantalum capacitor
−
| 2
+
 
−
| Will not start; displays blank
+
C13, C80 - 0.01uF ceramic capacitor<br><br>
−
| #01 Outhole
+
 
−
#02 Left/Right of Outhole (Starts with #01 or #02)
+
'''Resistors:''' (1/4 w unless noted)
−
|-align=center
+
 
−
| Embryon
+
R1, R3, R24, R28 - 8.2k
−
| 2
 
−
| Always starts
 
−
| #05 Left/Right of Outhole
 
−
  #08 Outhole
 
−
|-align=center
 
−
| Fathom
 
−
| 3
 
−
| Won't start; no GI, 2 insert lights flash, displays blank
 
−
| #01 Outhole
 
−
  #02 Left of Outhole 1
 
−
  #03 Left of Outhole 2 (Starts with #1& 2, OR #1&3)
 
−
|-align=center
 
−
| Fireball II
 
−
| 3
 
−
| Won't start; displays blank
 
−
| #01 Outhole
 
−
  #02 Left of Outhole
 
−
  #03 Left of Outhole
 
−
  #18 Right of Outhole
 
−
|-align=center
 
−
| Vector
 
−
| 3
 
−
| Won't start; displays normal
 
−
| #01 Left of Outhole 2
 
−
  #02 Left of Outhole 2
 
−
  #03 Outhole
 
−
|-align=center
 
−
| Xenon
 
−
| 2
 
−
| Won't start; displays blank
 
−
| #02 Ball release 1
 
−
  #28 Ball release 2
 
−
|}
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
=====Electrical short troubleshooting Fuse helper=====
+
R2 - 120k
  
−
[[file:Circuit-Breaker-Adapter.jpg|thumb|alt=alternative text|Circuit breaker with a blown fuse soldered in position]]As an aid to finding the cause for an electrical short, you can make a circuit breaker tool to eliminate the need to constantly replace a fuse, while you investigate the cause. This could save you money in the long run. It is better to under-fuse the connection by a small amount, then to use the rated fuse rating, so a 3 amp circuit breaker could be used on a 5 amp fuse holder, or a 10 amp breaker for a 20 amp G.I. fuse holder. The very small GMA fuses (5x20mm) will probably need some kind of jumper wire setup.
+
R11 - 82 ohm/2 watt
  
−
*a burned out fuse of any amperage or voltage (you were saving them just for such a thing!)
+
R12 - 270 ohm
−
*a circuit breaker of 1, 3, 5, or 10 amps, whatever amperage you require for the circuit you are troubleshooting. Buy ones like Mouser P/N 691-CMB10311C3NBA (Carling)  or 655-W57-XB7A4A10-10 (Tyco).
 
  
−
Solder the burned out fuse to the spade terminals of the circuit breaker as shown in the photo. Alternatively, make a two wire female spade mini harness, and solder the bare wires to each ends of the bad fuse and attach the circuit breaker that way.
+
R16 - 2k
 +
 
 +
R16 - 2.2k (stern mpu-200 only)
 +
 
 +
R17 - 150k
 +
 
 +
R29 - 470 ohm
 +
 
 +
R107 - 3.3k
 +
 
 +
R112 - 1k
 +
 
 +
R134 - 4.7k
  
−
===Display problems===
+
R140 - 20k<br><br>
  
−
====Display High Voltage Section====
+
If your reset circuit is operating as designed, yet the LED is still locked on, next step is to pull all the chips from the board except for U9, U11, and U6 (leave all chips U1-U6 installed on Stern MPU boards.  Only U6 is required on Bally boards to perform the initial LED turn off). It helps to have a known working U6 from a Bally game to use as a test chip for this purpose. Be aware that you need to know/have the board jumpered for the correct type of chip you're inserting.<br>
−
'''Bally High Voltage Section Repair'''<br /><br /> WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don't continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities. <br /><br /> If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working. On the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB), use a DMM to measure volts DC on test points TP2 and TP4, to determine if this section needs repair: <br /><br /> TP2 = 150 to 190VDC <br /> TP4 = 230VDC +/- 25VDC <br /><br /> If TP2 is less than about 150VDC or over 200VDC, the HV section is malfunctioning. It is worth mentioning that when the source display voltage rises above the core acceptable levels, the displays will still operate.  However, the increased voltage will strain the display circuitry.  In turn, the displays glass life expectancy will decrease dramatically. If TP4 is 0VDC, then power is not getting from the Power Supply board, and the problem is located either on the Power Supply, or in the wiring/connectors carrying power to the SDB, so you must correct this before working on the HV section. <br /><br />'''Replacing the components in the HV Section'''<br />(TP2=0VDC or 230VDC AND TP4=230VDC)<br /> If you prefer to replace only the failed components, follow page 50 of the [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Manufacturers/Bally/pdfs/ballyfo560.pdf Bally repair manual, F.O. 560], dtd 20 June 1977.
 
−
<br /><br />Since there are not that many components, it is may be less time consuming to replace all the components in the HV section. Most of these components are located between the two large heat sinks. There is a school of thought when working with high voltage regulator circuitry that dictates replacing ALL the components, as a baked, tired, component can take out new components as well. This is one area where shotgunning the section might not be a bad idea.<br>
 
−
[[Image:HVSection.png]]
 
  
 +
See if the board starts and turns off the LED with just the chips above installed - if it does, add these chips back in this order to see which might be bad: U10 PIA, U1-U5 program chips, U7 6810 ram, U8 5101 ram.  Often a bad ram/rom can cause the entire system to lock up.  Bad chip sockets can be a factor as well; the early Bally -17 boards have a closed type brown socket that's especially prone to failure.<br>
  
−
Check the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Parts_Suppliers Parts Suppliers] section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the following replacement parts (1/2 watt resistors can be substituted for 1/4 watt). <br />
+
Double check the jumpers to ensure they match the ROM chips you have available, and change the ROM chips to known working ones for testing.  A final thing to check if the machine won't boot is the clock circuit. It is fairly robust, and far more common that the reset circuit itself or chip sockets are the issue.  To check the clock circuit you need a logic probe or oscilloscope. A multimeter might show the average voltage on a clock circuit, or it might just show meaningless constantly changing numbers. The clock signal is pin 3 on the CPU chip, and the shifted clock signal goes to pins 36 and 37.  The frequency is about 500 kilohertz for Bally -17, -35 and Stern MPU-100 boards, and approximately 850 kilohertz for the Stern MPU-200 board.<br>
  
−
{| border="1"
+
If the clock signal is missing, pull U9 first to make sure the CPU chip isn't damaged, and test it again.<br>
−
| align="center" | '''Part'''
+
 
−
| align="center" | '''Part No.'''
+
It can be frustrating to track down a locked on LED problem, but breaking the problem up and testing each section individually helps.  Just remember that if the LED turns on and then off, most of the battle is won.  The board has booted far enough that the software was able to start and turn off the LED.  Proceed onto the LED flash testing to determine what needs to be fixed beyond that.<br>
−
| align="center" | '''Location'''
+
 
−
|-
+
====Bally / Stern MPU Board LED Flash Sequence====
−
| Transistor
+
 
−
| 2N3584,250V,2A,NPN
+
Upon start up, Bally and Stern boards have an LED that flashes.  The LED is used to convey the results of specific tests conducted on various parts of the system.  This section explains what is being tested and how, according to information from the Bally "FO-561-2 Theory of Operation rev. 5-1982"  manual, and the Stern manual "Theory of Operation, Stern's Microprocessor Controlled Solid-State Games".
−
| Q21
+
 
−
|-
+
When power is first applied to the MPU board, the LED by default is ON.  The very first set of valid instructions in every Bally / Stern game is to turn the LED off.  This is more of a flicker than a flash, so is not counted as a flash in the 7 flash sequence.
−
| Transistor
+
 
−
| 2N3440,250V,1A,NPN
+
=====Quick summary=====
−
| Q22,Q23(heatsink)
+
 
−
|-
+
<b>Flicker:</b>  MPU reset good, program booted.<br />
−
| Zener diode
+
<b>1st Flash:</b> ROM Checksums OK<br />
−
| 1N5275A,140V,1W,5%
+
<b>2nd Flash:</b> U7 6810 ram OK<br />
−
| VR1
+
<b>3rd Flash:</b> U8 5101 ram OK (U8 & U13 on mpu-200)<br />
−
|-
+
<b>4th Flash:</b> U10 PIA OK (see details for caveats)<br />
−
| Diode
+
<b>5th Flash:</b> U11 PIA OK (see details for caveats)<br />
−
| 1N4004,400PIV,1A
+
<b>6th Flash:</b> U12 555 Display interrupt timer OK<br />
−
| CR21
+
<b>7th Flash:</b> Zero crossing interrupt detector OK (solenoid voltage present)<br />
−
|-
+
 
−
| Fuse
+
=====LED flicker=====
−
| 3/16A,8AG
+
The LED flicker tells you the CPU chip was able to start a valid program stored in the EPROMs, and that the reset circuit itself is good.<br>
−
| F1(-22 only)
 
−
|-
 
−
| Resistor
 
−
| 22k Ohm,1/2W,5%
 
−
| R51
 
−
|-
 
−
| Resistor
 
−
| 1.2k Ohm,1/4W,5%
 
−
| R55
 
−
|-
 
−
| Resistor
 
−
| 82k Ohm,1/2W,5%
 
−
| R56
 
−
|-
 
−
| Resistor
 
−
| 8.2k Ohm,1/4W,5%
 
−
| R54
 
−
|-
 
−
| Resistor
 
−
| 390 Ohm,1/4W,5%
 
−
| R52
 
−
|-
 
−
| Resistor
 
−
| 100k Ohm,1W,5%,metal film
 
−
| R35
 
−
|-
 
−
| Capacitor
 
−
| 0.01 uF, 400V metal polyester
 
−
| C27,C28
 
−
|-
 
−
| Capacitor
 
−
| 150 uF, 350V (if original, replace)
 
−
| C26
 
−
|-
 
−
| Potentiometer
 
−
| 25k Ohm, PC-mount
 
−
| RT1
 
−
|}
 
  
−
<br />'''Remove and replace components'''
+
=====First flash=====
 +
After the program is running, it performs a checksum of all programmed chips U1-U6. Most Bally games' programming is split between an operating system chip U6 and game ROM chip(s) at U1/U2.  Stern games were programmed a little looser: operating system and game code are freely interspersed.<br>
  
−
* Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).
+
Bally checksums are calculated by summing each byte, and discarding any carries.  Most games check their code in $0400 blocks, so it would be possible to determine down to the chip which chip failed this checksum.  (A 2716/9316 chip has hex $0800 space available in it - 2732 sized images are $1000 in size.  The smallest chip used was a 474 PROM which has $0200 bytes available) However, to do so would require a way to read the X register from the 6800 CPU chip at the time of checksum failure. So if you do not get the first flash, it is best to replace the U6 chip first, then move onto the other chips - U5, U2, and U1 (if present).<br>
−
* Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.
 
−
* Stuff board with new components.
 
−
* Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.
 
−
* Leave a little space under components for air flow.
 
−
* Bend leads on components so they won't fall out when board is inverted for soldering.
 
−
* Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.
 
−
* Solder the parts to the board
 
−
* Clip excess off leads
 
  
−
<br />'''Ready to test'''<br /><br /> Prior to powering up and testing, remove all display connectors, or test with F1 removed from the SDB. I recommend connecting your DMM with a clip lead to TP2 prior to powering the game, so you don't have to probe the HV section. Power up the machine and verify TP2 voltage is 150VDC to 190VDC. If the correct voltage is read, power down the machine and reconnect all the displays and put F1 back in. Leave your DMM connected to TP2.<br /><br /> Power up the machine and adjust RT1 so TP2 reads about 150VDC to 160VDC. If some of the displays no longer light, then adjust the voltage up until they are all lit. <br /><br />New displays may require to be burned in at 190VDC for an hour or two, but then the voltage can be reduced. The lower voltage will prolong the life of the gas plasma displays. <br /><br />If TP2 is not correct after your repair, you will need to recheck your work. If you cannot find a problem with your repair, then I recommend you follow the troubleshooting steps on page 50 of the [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Manufacturers/Bally/pdfs/ballyfo560.pdf Bally repair manual, F.O. 560], dtd 20 June 1977.
+
Stern checksums are calculated similarly, but not in chunks. The entire program space is summed and must equal $00 for the first flash to occur.<br>
  
−
After you have repaired your HV section and verified that it is providing the correct voltage, the next part of the wiki will address how to correct problems with the displays.
+
Regardless of whether the manufacturer is Bally or Stern, after the checksum is passed, the first flash occurs.<br>
  
−
====Repairing Bally/Stern Displays====
+
=====Second flash=====
−
This page will help you repair your Bally 6- and 7-digit displays. The information is focused on the AS-2518-21 display. Since the AS-2518-15 display is interchangeable with the "-21" display, everything mentioned here will apply to both displays. Bally 7-digit displays (AS-2518-58) work the same way, they just contain additional components to support the additional digit, and lighting of commas. Some Stern DA-100 6-digit displays are very similar to the Bally versions, and the information here will also work for them.  The Stern 7-digit display is slightly different, as its circuit board is physically deeper than any of the other displays and is not directly interchangeable with a Bally 7 digit display.  Additionally, there are some input pin differences; however, if you have the schematic you can use the information here on the display, some transistors might be labeled differently.
+
Next, the program tests the 6810 RAM chip at U7, by writing the data $00 to each memory location contained in the RAM ($00-$7F). It then reads back each location to ensure that $00 is returned.  It increments the data to $01 and repeats this test. This continues until the data read back is $FF (256), which is the maximum value of any one byte stored in the RAM. It then increments the memory location being tested, and repeats the $00-$FF data storage test.  If any of the tested locations return an unexpected result, the program stops, and alerts you to a problem with U7 (since you got the first ROM checksum flash, but not the 2nd U7 OK flash). <br>
  
−
First off, let's make sure your malfunctioning display is even repairable. If the glass display itself is shot, there's not much that can be done except to replace it. Here's a couple of photos of things that can go wrong with the glass display.
+
=====Third flash=====
 +
Now, the program tests the non-volatile 5101 RAM chip at U8 (U8 AND U13 on Stern MPU-200 boards).  The 5101(s) store(s) bookkeeping data, game parameters, high scores, replay levels, etc. The program tests this RAM ($200-$2FF) by reading the original nibble / byte (see sidebar), and saves it in a temporary location. Then, it stores a test pattern in the location similar to the U7 test.  After the byte successfully passes the test, the original data is returned to the location, and the program loops onto the next byte.<br>
  
−
[[File:B-disp-d1.jpg|center]]
+
<b>LEARN MORE: How does a 128 byte 5101 RAM occupy 256 memory locations?</b><br>
−
<center>Burn spots on the digit segments - You can't fix these but you can live with them</center><br>
 
  
−
[[File:B-disp-n1.jpg|center]]
+
If you look at a pinout of the 5101 memory, you will notice it is a 128 byte device.  Yet, it is addressed by the MPU via 256 memory locations ($200-$2FF).  This is because the 5101 is actually a 256 nibble device - a nibble is a half-byte (4 bits).  So data stored to a 5101 in a pinball machine actually only stores half of the data byte being sent to it.  Which half it stores is dependent on the board design.  Bally and Stern use the upper nibble for storage, and Williams used the lower nibble.  Stern MPU-200 boards have an additional 5101 at U13. This stores the lower nibble in conjunction with U8 storing the upper nibble of a byte saved to $200-$2FF.  This allows MPU-200 games to store more data, and avoid doing some fancy processing by getting the data in and out of the non-volatile ram area.<br>
−
<center>Broken glass nipple - This display glass is ruined</center>
 
  
−
Then there's the circuit board. Most if not all of the components can be replaced without much effort, but if there is damage to the circuit board itself, it may be impossible, or unreliable to repair.  
+
For example, here's some pseudo-machine code for what happens:
 +
*LOAD #$24 (the data you want to store is 24)
 +
*STORE $231 (you want to store the data 24 at memory location $231)
 +
*READ $231 (you want to read back the data you just stored)
 +
The data returned is not #$24 as expected, but rather #$2F. The lower nibble was never stored, because the 5101 memory does not store data as bytes but rather as nibbles.  To store #$24 properly would require splitting the byte into its nibbles '2' and '4'.  The 2 would be stored in one memory location, while the 4 would be shifted, and stored in another memory location.<br>
  
−
[[File:B-disp-b1.jpg|center]]
+
Showing the byte as binary might be helpful to visualize what's involved.  The hex #$24 in binary is %00100100.  Split into nibbles is %0010 (the 2) and %0100 (the 4).  The upper nibble is the one the 5101 is able to store directly, but the position in the byte of the lower nibble prevents it from being stored. A shift operation is performed 4 times on the byte to reposition the lower nibble as the upper nibble, which enables it to be stored to the 5101.  Each shift moves the binary pattern to the left one bit - here's the full sequence:
−
<center>Burn marks on the driver board</center><br>
+
*Start=%00100100
 +
*Shift left=%0100100x
 +
*Shift left=%100100xx
 +
*Shift left=%00100xxx
 +
*Shift left=%0100xxxx
  
−
[[File:B-disp-b2.jpg|center]]
+
This gives the #$4 in the high nibble.  All byte data has to be split this way to be saved, and recombined upon reading from boards (Bally -17 and -35, Stern MPU-100) with a single 5101 RAM chip.  You can see why Stern added the second 5101 RAM to their boards.  It makes programming much easier!<br>
−
<center>Underneath - The traces are a mess</center><br>
 
  
−
So we're assuming you have displays that do not fall into the categories above. If your problem is with the digits not being displayed properly, and it's NOT the MPU's fault, then it can be fixed, and fairly easily too!
+
=====Continuity Chart for U8 5101 RAM in a Bally AS2518-17, -35 or Stern MPU-100 Board=====
  
−
'''FIRST THING''' - Before you go any further, there are two things you should do to ALL your displays, even if they seem to be working fine. First, reflow the solder on the joints for the header pins. On the bottom side of the circuit board, just heat each header pin solder joint with your soldering iron, then add a little fresh solder. Be careful not to create any solder bridges between adjoining pins, unless there is already one there. Next, replace the six 100K ohm 1/4 watt resistors with 1/2 watters. They are the ones with the color code brown-black-yellow, and are labeled R1, R3, R5, R7, R9 and R11. You'll find seven of them, but only the ones I just listed need to be replaced. For 7-digit displays there will be eight of them, so replace R56 too, along with the six I just mentioned. 1/4 watt is just too small for their circuits and often they are overheated which causes them to change their resistance. On the photo of the burnt circuit board up above, the area that was burnt was under 3 of these resistors.
+
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
! IC & Pin#
 +
! Data Address
 +
! Continuity Points
  
−
'''SECOND THING''' - Connectors, connectors, connectors! There are lots of signals going from the MPU to each display driver, and if these signals are not making it due to bad wiring or connectors, then your displays will misbehave. Check all the display driver connectors for loose or broken wires, burnt pins, busted connectors, and replace or repair anything that looks bad. Remember that some of the signals are daisy-chained from display to display, and a bad connection at one display can effect the others "downstream". Then check the J2 connector on the MPU, since this is where all the signals come from. Next check the J3 connector on the solenoid driver board. There's a high voltage regulator used by the displays on this board, and J3 is where it gets the 230 VDC from the power supply (pins 6 & 3) and feeds the regulated 190 VDC to the displays (pin 8). Finally, check the J3 connector on the rectifier board, since this is where the high voltage comes from. Connectors are always a big pain!
+
|-
−
 
+
| U8 pin 1
−
[[File:B-disp-hp1.jpg|center]]
+
| (A3)
−
<center>Header pin solder joints - Notice the cracks around the last two pins on the right</center><br>
+
| U7 pin 20, U6 pin 5, U9 pin 12
−
 
+
|-
−
[[File:B-disp-hp2.jpg|center]]
+
| U8 pin 2
−
<center>Header pin solder joints after being re-soldered - No cracks</center><br>
+
| (A2)
−
 
+
| U7 pin 21, U6 pin 6, U9 pin 11
−
[[File:B-disp-r1.jpg|center]]
+
|-
−
<center>Can you find the six 100K ohm resistors (brown-black-yellow)</center><br>
+
| U8 pin 3
−
 
+
| (A1)
−
[[File:B-disp-r2.jpg|center]]
+
| U7 pin 22, U6 pin 7, U9 pin 10, U11 pin 35
−
<center>Here they've been replaced them with 1/2 watt resistors of the same value (100K ohms)</center><br>
+
|-
−
 
+
| U8 pin 4
−
Now we'll look at come common problems and briefly describe the cause, but I assume you've already replaced or checked the 100K Ohm resistors and re-soldered the header pins:
+
| (A0)
−
 
+
| U7 pin 23, U6 pin 8, U9 pin 9, U11 pin 36
−
'''All displays are blank'''
+
|-
−
 
+
| U8 pin 5
−
Most likely cause of all blank displays is a lack of high voltage. First off, check F2 on the rectifier board. It's a 3/4 Amp slow blow fuse and it's test point on the rectifier board is TP2. You should read 230 VDC at this test point. If it's OK, then check the fuse on the solenoid driver board. The high voltage regulator's output is fused and if this fuse is blown then there's probably a short somewhere on one of your displays or the wiring harness. The high voltage regulator fuse is a 3/16 Amp, but it's a bit smaller (8AG) than a standard fuse, and a hard one to find. If the fuse is not blown, then the next thing to do is verify that at least 170 VDC is making it from the regulator to the displays. Check TP2 on the solenoid driver board. It should read between 170 and 190 VDC. If it does, then the regulator is working. While you're there, if your display glasses are not new, use the small trimmer pot on near the fuse and adjust the high voltage to be 170 VDC. Older displays work just fine on 170 VDC and it's less stressful.
+
| (A5)
 +
| U7 pin 18, U6 pin 3, U9 pin 14
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 6
 +
| (A6)
 +
| U7 pin 17, U6 pin 2, U9 pin 15
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 7
 +
| (A7)
 +
| U7 pin 15, U6 pin 1, U9 pin 16, U11 pin 24
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 8
 +
|
 +
| GROUND
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pins 9&10
 +
| (D10&D00)
 +
| U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U9 pin 29, U11 pin 29 (* pins 9 & 10 siamesed together)
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pins 11&12
 +
| (D11&D01)
 +
| U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U9 pin 28, U11 pin 28 (* pins 11 & 12 siamesed together)
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pins 13&14
 +
| (D12& D02)
 +
| U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U9 pin 27, U11 pin 27 (*pins 13 &14 siamesed together)
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pins 15&16
 +
| (D13&D03)
 +
| U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U9 pin 26, U11 pin 26 (* pins 15&16 siamesed together)
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 17
 +
| (CE2)
 +
| Q5 Right Upper leg, U9 pin 40, U11 pin 34
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 18
 +
| (OD)
 +
| U18 pin 6
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 19
 +
| (CE1)
 +
| U17 pin 8
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 20
 +
| (R/W)
 +
| U7 pin 16, U9 pin 34, U11 pin 21, U18 pin 7
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 21
 +
| (A4)
 +
| U7 pin 19, U6 pin 4, U11 pin 22
 +
|-
 +
| U8 pin 22
 +
| (Vcc)
 +
| C13 Left Leg, R12 upper Leg, CR5 Lower Leg
 +
|}
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====U8 & U13 5101 RAM Continuity Chart for Stern MPU-200 Only =====
 +
 
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable sortable"
 +
! Data Address
 +
! U8 Pins
 +
! U13 Pins
 +
! Other Continuity Points
 +
|-
 +
|A0 || 4 || 4 || U9-9
 +
|-
 +
|A1 || 3 || 3 || U9-10
 +
|-
 +
|A2 || 2 || 2 || U9-11
 +
|-
 +
|A3 || 1 || 1 || U9-12
 +
|-
 +
|A4 || 21 || 21 || U9-13
 +
|-
 +
|A5 || 5 || 5 || U9-14
 +
|-
 +
|A6 || 6 || 6 || U9-15
 +
|-
 +
|A7 || 7 || 7 || U9-16
 +
|-
 +
|D0 || NC || 9-10 || U9-33
 +
|-
 +
|D1 || NC || 11-12 || U9-32
 +
|-
 +
|D2 || NC || 13-14 || U9-31
 +
|-
 +
|D3 || NC || 15-16 || U9-30
 +
|-
 +
|D4 || 9-10 || NC || U9-29
 +
|-
 +
|D5 || 11-12 || NC || U9-28
 +
|-
 +
|D6 || 13-14 || NC || U9-27
 +
|-
 +
|D7 || 15-16 || NC || U9-26
 +
|-
 +
|GND || 8 || 8 || U9-1
 +
|-
 +
|VCC (+5V) || 22 || 22 || U9-8
 +
|-
 +
|CS1 || 19 || 19 || U17-8
 +
|-
 +
|CS2 || 17 || 17 || U9-40
 +
|-
 +
|OD || 18 || 18 || U14-9
 +
|-
 +
|RW || 20 || 20 || U9-34
 +
|}
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Note: The U8 5101 RAM Continuity Chart below is under review for correctness. Hibler reviewing it now...
 +
{| class="wikitable sortable"
 +
|-
 +
! IC & Pin#
 +
! Signal
 +
! Continuity Points
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 01
 +
| &nbsp;(A3)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 1, U7 pin 20, U6 pin 5, U9 pin 12
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 02
 +
| &nbsp;(A2)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 2, U7 pin 21, U6 pin 6, U9 pin 11
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 03
 +
| &nbsp;(A1)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 3, U7 pin 22, U6 pin 7, U9 pin 10, U11 pin 35
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 04
 +
| &nbsp;(A0)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 4, U7 pin 23, U6 pin 8, U9 pin 9, U11 pin 36
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 05
 +
| &nbsp;(A5)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 5, U7 pin 18, U6 pin 3, U9 pin 14
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 06
 +
| &nbsp;(A6)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 6, U7 pin 17, U6 pin 2, U9 pin 15
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 07
 +
| &nbsp;(A7)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 7, U7 pin 15, U6 pin 1, U9 pin 16, U11 pin 24
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 08
 +
| &nbsp;GROUND
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 8
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 09
 +
| &nbsp;(DI0 & DO0; D4)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pins 9 & 10, U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U9 pin 29, U11 pin 29 (*pins 9 & 10, shorted together)
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 10
 +
| &nbsp;(DI0 & DO0; D4)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pins 9 & 10, U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U9 pin 29, U11 pin 29 (*pins 9 & 10, shorted together)
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 11
 +
| &nbsp;(D11 & DO1; D5)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pins 11&12, U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U9 pin 28, U11 pin 28 (*pins 11 & 12 shorted together)
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 12
 +
| &nbsp;(D11 & DO1; D5)&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pins 11&12, U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U9 pin 28, U11 pin 28 (*pins 11 & 12 shorted together)
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 13
 +
| &nbsp;(DI2 & DO2; D6)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pins 13 & 14, U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U9 pin 27, U11 pin 27 (*pins 13 & 14 shorted together)
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 14
 +
| &nbsp;(DI2 & DO2; D6)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pins 13 & 14, U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U9 pin 27, U11 pin 27 (*pins 13 & 14 shorted together)&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 15
 +
| &nbsp;(DI3 & DO3; D7)
 +
| &nbsp;U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U9 pin 26, U11 pin 26 (*pins 15 & 16 shorted together)
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 16
 +
| &nbsp;(DI3 & DO3; D7)
 +
| &nbsp;U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U9 pin 26, U11 pin 26 (*pins 15 & 16 shorted together)
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 17
 +
| &nbsp;(CE2)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 17, Q5 Right Upper leg, U9 pin 40, U11 pin 34
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 18
 +
| &nbsp;(OD)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 18, U14 pin 9
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 19
 +
| &nbsp;(CE1)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 19, U17 pin 8,
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 20
 +
| &nbsp;(R/W)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 20, U7 pin 16, U9 pin 34, U11 pin 21, U14 pin 10
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 21
 +
| &nbsp;(A4)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 21, U7 pin 19, U6 pin 4, U11 pin 22
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 22
 +
| &nbsp;(Vcc)
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 22,  C13 Left Leg, R12 upper Leg, CR5 Lower Leg
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
<br><br>
 +
Note: The U13 5101 RAM Continuity Chart below is under review for correctness. Hibler reviewing it now...
 +
{| class="wikitable sortable"
 +
|-
 +
! IC & Pin#
 +
! Signal
 +
! Continuity Points
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 08
 +
| &nbsp;GROUND
 +
| &nbsp;U8 pin 8
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 09
 +
| &nbsp;(DI0 & DO0; D0)
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 10
 +
| &nbsp;(DI0 & DO0; D0)
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 11
 +
| &nbsp;(DI1 & DO1; D1)
 +
| &nbsp;U7 pin 3, U6 pin 10, U9 pin 32, U11 pin 32&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 12
 +
| &nbsp;(DI1 & DO1; D1)&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U7 pin 3, U6 pin 10, U9 pin 32, U11 pin 32
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 13
 +
| &nbsp;(DI2 & DO2)&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
| &nbsp;U7 pin 4, U6 pin 11, U9 pin 31, U11 pin 31
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 14
 +
| &nbsp;(DI2 & DO2)
 +
| &nbsp;U7 pin 4, U6 pin 11, U9 pin 31, U11 pin 31
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 15
 +
| &nbsp;(DI3 & DO3)
 +
| &nbsp;U7 pin 5, U6 pin 13, U9 pin 30, U11 pin 30 (*pins 15 & 16 shorted together)
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;U13 pin 16
 +
| &nbsp;(DI3 & DO3)
 +
| &nbsp;U7 pin 5, U6 pin 13, U9 pin 30, U11 pin 30 (*pins 15 & 16 shorted together)&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
|}
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Issues with 5101 RAM chips=====
 +
 
 +
The socket at U8 (and U13 for Stern MPU-200) is very close to the corrosion effects of the alkali of a leaking battery. This is often the cause of boards not showing a 3rd flash. There are traces on the component and solder side of the board, and the socket can hide corrosion to these traces.  In turn, the corrosion can affect the 5101 chip's contact with the socket pins. Be careful when replacing corroded or SCANBE sockets at U8, U13, U11, etc. Bally/Stern boards run a number of exposed traces on the top-side of the board in between socket pins. It is extremely easy to splash a miniscule amount of solder, accidentally bridging a socket pin to an adjacent in-between signal line. Use of a logic probe (ground lead at TP4 and 5V at TP5) and sampling all of the signals after a socket replacement will make it very easy to verify your work and locate crossed up (typically scratchy/floating) signals! This can save you minutes or hours of troubleshooting.<br>
 +
 
 +
Unless the board is unusually clean, a rebuild of a non-working board should include replacing the socket at U8 (and U13, for MPU-200). The chip is an oddball configuration with 22 pins which makes machine pin sockets hard to find. Use 2 strips of machine sockets, so that you can solder both above and below the board. Inspect the traces closely on the top; it is best to avoid soldering on the top of a board unless you have to as it makes it extremely difficult to desolder the sockets in the future. Take extreme care not to make a solder bridge of the traces on the component side, as it is easy to do.  Performing a continuity test to adjacent socket legs after soldering is a good practice. Also, note that some of the pins are shorted together. (see above)<br>
 +
 
 +
Failure to achieve the third flash can also be attributed to the following: If the U8 and U13 (MPU-200) show correct continuity as charted above, and the 5101 RAM is known to be good, the problem could lie with the U19 (4011) chip. On Stern MPU-200, replace U14 (4572) instead. Finally, although rare, the 6800 CPU at U9 could be bad.<br>
 +
 +
The speed of the 5101 RAM chip can make a difference in the functioning of an otherwise good MPU board. If a slow chip is put into a good MPU, strange behavior such as inconsistent boot ups, incorrect score display behavior, among other things can result from the RAM not being able to keep up with the demand from the CPU. Below is a list of 5101 RAM chips and their speed. A lower number means a faster chip. A Stern MPU-200 board needs 2 chips of at least 450ns, while the Bally AS 2518-17 or -35 and the Stern MPU-100 can work correctly with a slower chip of 650ns. The stern mpu-200 board should have matching speeds for the 2 RAM chips, as they are selected and accessed simultaneously. A faster chip is fine for a replacement, but there will not be a performance enhancement. It is usually best that the speeds of the RAM chips match (eg, 450ns and 450ns, not 450ns and 150ns), or there could be strange side effects, such as strange sound behavior and audits not saving correctly to RAM.<br>
 +
 
 +
*PCD5101P (Philips manu) 150ns
 +
*5101-1 450ns
 +
*5101L-1 450ns
 +
*5101L-2 450ns
 +
*5101-2 450ns
 +
*5101 650ns
 +
*5101L 650ns
 +
*5101-3 650ns
 +
*5101L-3 650ns
 +
*5101-8 800ns (too slow for any board)
 +
 
 +
The 5101 RAM chip is especially sensitive to static discharge that will damage it, so take extra precaution in handling.
 +
 
 +
The memory RAM replacement chip sold by Tom Callahan at pin-logic.com (now offline) uses a 6116 and special adapter, and makes a good replacement. Pin-logic also sells the static ram chips that do not require batteries for backup; although he advertises that these do not work in the Stern MPU-200 board, 2 of them did work on a test board. Another source for varying types of 5101 and 6116 replacements is a blog site [http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=392 WarpZoneArcade].  There is information how to roll-your-own 5101 replacement adapters.  Or, visit its accompanying site, [http://pinforge.com PinForge] for pre-made RAM adapters. A source for [http://www.pinitech.com/products/stern_mpu200_ram.php MPU-200 pre-built adapters is Pinitech]. Here is a list of [[MPU_Battery_Replacement_Options#Products|additional sources for NVRAM adapters]].<br>
 +
 
 +
If you opt to go for a (recommended) NVRAM solution, a highly recommended modification (after discarding the battery!) is to power the NVRAM directly from the +5V line and remove the 12V line circuitry. This can be easily accomplished by cutting out R11. And then cut out CR5 and CR7 and replace these two with jumper wires (or 0 ohm resistors).
 +
 
 +
=====Fourth and Fifth flashes=====
 +
Next, the program tests each of the 2 6820/6821 peripheral interface adapters (PIAs) at U10 and U11, starting with U10.  The PIAs are set to a known state, then data is stored and read back from them to verify their registers are functioning properly.  It is important to note that it is not possible for the PIA to be 100% tested with this test, as external data would have to be fed in to do so.  However, the test will at least test the internal registers.  It would be possible for a PIA to pass the self-test, but still not work properly with external inputs. <br>
 +
 
 +
Assuming the PIAs pass, the fourth (U10) and fifth (U11) LED flashes occur.  The LED itself is connected to the U11 PIA.  So if the LED is locked on, U11 might be bad.  It's worth letting a locked on LED board 'sit' for a minute or so to see if the game boots all the way up without flashing each test step.  This is an example of how a PIA can pass self test but still be bad.  The LED control pin has no feedback as to if the LED is in fact flashing. <br>
 +
 
 +
Because the PIA tests all possible values in all possible registers, anything connected to the registers will be activated very briefly as well.  This manifests itself most obviously via the flipper relay which on most games will click during the U11 PIA test.  Holding the flipper buttons in will usually result in a flip or half-flip during this test.  This could be helpful if purchasing a machine/repairing one in a noisy environment and you want to see how involved you might getting before removing the backglass to visually see the LED diagnostic flashing. <br>
 +
 
 +
=====Sixth flash=====
 +
The sixth flash waits for an external input on U11 pin 40 from the display interrupt generator circuit, which occurs 320 times a second.  If you're missing the sixth flash, there may be a problem with either the U12 circuit, '''OR''' the input pin on the PIA.  A logic probe, oscilloscope, or a multimeter on pin 40 can help you determine which is at fault.  A logic probe will pulse if the display circuit is operating; the scope will show you the signal's waveform; and the multimeter should settle on a voltage somewhat between 0-5 volts.<br>
 +
 
 +
One definite reason for lack of a sixth flash is a poor connection on the ground side of C16, the film capacitor. If there isn't a sixth flash, but all other tests and measurements are good, it's a safe bet that U11 is bad and needs to be replaced.<br>
 +
 
 +
Note that the sixth flash does '''NOT''' check for the proper '''frequency''' of operation of the display generation circuitry.  As long as there is a pulsing signal (technically, ONE state change), the test is marked good and the program allowed to continue.<br>
 +
 
 +
=====Seventh flash=====
 +
 
 +
Note: Before troubleshooting further, if testing on the bench with only +5 and +12V applied, a 7th flash will not happen even if the MPU is fully functional. The 7th flash requires the +43V solenoid voltage.
 +
 
 +
For bench testing, it is possible to "trick" The MPU into completing the 7th flash without applying the solenoid voltage by temporarily jumpering the top of R17 and the top of R23.
 +
 
 +
The 7th and final flash waits for an external input on U10 pin 18 from the zero crossing detector circuit, which occurs 120 times a second (as the AC waveform passes or "crosses" 0 volts). Diagnosis of issues with the 7th flash are similar to the 6th flash. The input to pin 18 can be measured to determine if the signal is present or not. A signal present, but no flash could mean a bad U10 PIA. Again, a missing signal usually points to missing solenoid voltage. The source of the zero crossing signal is derived from the solenoid voltage delivered from the rectifier board. Equally, if a signal is present, there may be an issue with the zero crossing detection circuit itself.
 +
 
 +
Note again that the seventh flash does '''NOT''' check for the proper '''frequency''' from the zero crossing detector.  It simply checks for a pulsing signal, and only checks for '''ONE''' transition.
 +
 
 +
After the 7th flash, the program does some background setup: reads dip switches, enables the displays, attract modes, switch scanning etc. in a 'game over' mode, waiting for player input.  The LED will sometimes be dimly glowing or even pulse as this happens, which is not a cause for alarm.  The LED circuit around Q2 can be rebuilt if this is concerning, but it is harmless.
 +
 
 +
One interesting anomaly is that the 7th flash will not occur, if there is a bad 1N4004 diode (CR3) used on -32 / -50 sound boards.  On these two sound boards, the +12VDC used on the boards is derived from the +43VDC solenoid voltage, and isolated by CR3.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:R113_and_R16_on_bally_-35.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Bally MPU with burned R113 and R16]]<br><br><br>
 +
If there is +43VDC solenoid voltage present, but no 7th flash, check R113 and R16 on the MPU. These two resistors take the 43v and form a voltage divider. If these resistors burn they can stop the 7th flash from happening. Test point 3 should show approximately 21.5 pulsating DC if the resistors are ok.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
If there is still no 7th flash and there is 21.5 VDC on TP3, check CB1 which is on U10 pia pin 18. It is the logic side of the zero crossing and should be pulsing.  If it is stuck low or stuck high replace u14.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Chip Sockets====
 +
Reliable socket connections are a requirement for any printed circuit card to work as designed. Old sockets, as discussed below, should be replaced.  Use extreme care in desoldering the old sockets, the traces and pads on Bally Mpu-17 boards are easily lifted.  It is possible to lift other boards' traces and pads as well, especially if any battery corrosion is in the area.
 +
 
 +
The chip sockets on old Bally and Stern boards (also most any board of this era) are long past their reliable lifetimes. They may work, but they may also cause intermittent connections that will have you chasing your tail tracking down odd problems with your game. Like the 40-pin interconnect used in Williams System 3-7 games, these sockets should always be replaced. On Bally/Stern MPUs, these include U2, U6 (more game ROMs if you don't combine the ROM images), U7 RAM, U8 5101 RAM (and U13 5101 RAM if a Stern MPU-200), U9 CPU, U10 and U11 6820/6821 Peripheral Interface Adapters.<br>
 +
 
 +
Perhaps the most maligned socket brand, and rightfully so, is the Scanbe brand. In the picture below, you can see why. These 30+ year old sockets passed the point of reliability many years ago. Included in the Scanbe socket picture below are two pins pulled from a Scanbe socket. The pins were designed to grip the SIDES of the IC legs, unlike the design of modern sockets that grip the front and back faces of the IC leg. Get rid of them now.
 +
 +
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2 caption="Poor quality and old sockets found on many early pinball machine circuit boards">
 +
File:Bally MPU Sockets Orange.JPG|<center>It's hard to believe that these "brown" sockets ever worked.</center>
 +
File:Bally MPU Sockets Augat.JPG|<center>The spring strength of the pins in these AUGAT sockets eroded over time.</center>
 +
File:ScanbeSocket.jpg|<center>Closeup of the infamous "Scanbe" brand socket. "Scanbe" is molded into the top of the socket face.</center>
 +
File:SternCraptasticSocket.jpg|<center>This style of Molex socket is particularly troublesome. Like Scanbe sockets, they don't work well after many years and the legs are so large that they are almost as hard to remove as a "WPC Snap Cap" without damaging the delicate through holes found on Stern MPU-100 MPUs</center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption="One Method of Socket Removal (works for at least ScanBe and Augat sockets)">
 +
File:PryScanBeSocketOff.jpg|<center>Prying off an OEM Augat socket. Be careful to not crush/damage traces as you pry.</center>
 +
File:HeatAndRemoveEachPin.jpg|<center>Heat and remove each pin individually.</center>
 +
File:CleanThroughHoles.jpg|<center>Clean up the through holes with your favorite solder sucker. Here, a Hakko 808 is being used.</center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====ROMs/ICs====
 +
this is a stub
 +
 
 +
The Motorola part number equivalencies that appear on the top of U9, U10, and U11 are...
 +
*SC44216P = 6800 microprocessor
 +
*SC44067P = 6820 PIA
 +
 
 +
====Clock Signal====
 +
replacement 9602 board: http://www.homepin.com/9602.html
 +
 
 +
replace with a 6802: http://pinballeon.com/6802/e6802.htm
 +
 
 +
===How to make a Benchtop power supply for the MPU board===
 +
[[file:power_Supply_Connector.jpg|200px|left|thumb|ATX Power Supply connector modification]]
 +
[[file:power_Supply_hookupR.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Bench Top Power Supply hooked up to MPU board]]
 +
Being able to test the MPU board on the bench is a great advantage in trouble shooting. A benchtop power supply is quite easy and inexpensive to put together. All that is required is a computer supply and some mods to the connectors. An ATX or old AT computer power supply will supply the + 5 vdc and +12 VDC that is needed to run the first 6 flashes. The 7th and final flash requires +43 vdc and cannot be supplied by the ATX power supply, but the MPU can be "fooled" into thinking it is present.<br>
 +
An ordinary ATX computer can be had used or new for under $20. Exact wattage is unimportant. In order to be able to switch the power on and off, the 20 pin connector on a ATX supply must be modded. This is not necessary on an older AT supply. Because modern motherboards use a soft power on/off, the green pwr-ON at pin 14 must be tied to the black COM ground at pin 13 or 15 thru 17. This can be done easily done with a short length of wire and a .062 pin attached to each end and shoved into the 20 pin connector at pin 14 and 15. Or, simply cut the wires free from the connector and solder them together.<bt>
 +
 
 +
Take one of the molex 4 pin connectors which have 1 RED wire (+5 vdc), 1 YELLOW (+12 vdc) and 2 BLACK ground wires.  Attach an alligator clip to the RED, YELLOW and one BLACK lead. A good tip is to use the color coded rubber boots to protect from accidental shorts and keep it easier to identify the leads at a  glance. If you should accidentally short the +12 volts to +5 via you will kill all the ICs on the board!<br>
 +
 
 +
To use the power supply, with the power OFF, clip the black lead to TP 4 at the top right of the board.  Clip the RED +5 vdc lead to TP 5 at the bottom right, near the battery. Finally clip the YELLOW +12 vdc to TP 2 on the bottom left of the board. Make certain that this connector is not on or shorted to TP3 which is nearby. This error would damage the board, so double check this before turning on the power. Connect the power supply to 120vdc outlet and flip the switch to boot.<br>
 +
 
 +
Upon power up, the brief flicker should be seen, then 6 (not 7) more flashes for a good board. The 7th flash cannot be achieved without +43vdc present. On some occasions, the LED will lock on and not go into the flash sequence. This COULD BE because the MPU is sensitive to the exact voltage supplied and will not boot with a computer supply.  If the board successfully boots in the game, this could be the cause. This condition is rare, but possible. Also, if the LED locks on immediately, try doing a manual reset by briefly shorting together pins 39 and 40 of the U9 CPU with a small screwdriver. This forces the pin 40 to go low and begin the boot process. It is also possible to short the junction of resistors R1 and R3, on the right side of R1, to board GROUND with a jumper clip to accomplish the same effect.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
 
 +
===Solenoid Driver Board Issues===
 +
====Failed LM323K or Mission 5VDC====
 +
While the LM323K (or 7805) is a reliable voltage regulator, periodically, they do fail. A discussion on replacing the LM323K can be found [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Driver_Board_LM323K_5V_Regulator <b>here</b>].
 +
 
 +
====Testing and Replacing Transistors====
 +
[[File:Transistor_Replacement.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Before and After of Replaced Drive Transistor, Diode, and Resistor]]<br>
 +
To test a transistor set the DMM to diode test mode.  With the game turned off, place the black lead on the metal tab of the transistor.  Probe the two outer legs of the transistor with the red lead.  The DMM should read between .4v and .6v (some DMM will show 4xx - 6xx).  The center leg should be a dead short to the metal tab.  If either outer leg reads anything outside of the .4v to .6v range, the transistor more than likely needs to be replaced.  Use a TIP-102 as the replacement transistor.<br>
 +
 
 +
If a transistor needs to be replaced it is usually a good idea to check / replace the 1n4004 diode and 330 ohm resistor associated with that transistor as these will often burn / short.  Also check the diode on the associated coil, it is likely to be shorted as well.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
The transistor output can also be tested by using the diagnostic LED on the MPU board. An alligator test lead and a component lead clipping or finishing nail are needed.
 +
#With the power off, attach one end of the alligator test lead to TP6 located on the MPU board. TP6 is located in the vicinity of of the diagnostic LED.
 +
#Next, attached the other end of the test lead to the component lead clipping or finishing nail.
 +
#Turn the game on, and place it into solenoid test or just allow it to remain in attract mode.
 +
#Carefully place the lead with the finishing nail into one of the many solenoid outputs on the solenoid driver board (J1, J2, or J5).
 +
 
 +
If the LED lights briefly as the solenoid test cycles, the transistor and header connection on the solenoid driver output is good.
 +
 
 +
If the LED does not light, suspect the following...
 +
*a failed transistor,
 +
*a cracked header joint,
 +
*a discontinuity between the transistor and the header pin,
 +
*the associated diode on SDB has failed,
 +
*the 3081 transistor array on the SDB,
 +
*the 74154 4 to 16 decoder on the SDB, or
 +
*failed connections on J4 of MPU and / or J4 of the SDB, or bad daisy-chain connection at J1 of the sound board (if a sound board is used)
 +
 
 +
If the LED remains on, this means that the transistor is shorted. The exceptions are the diagnostic button return connection (ground) located at J2 pin 7, and the coin lockout coil ground at J2 pin 8. The coin lockout is a high resistance coil, and can remain on without destroying its associated drive transistor.<br>
 +
 
 +
The above test using the MPU diagnostic LED can be performed with the J1, J2, or J5 connectors connected or disconnected.  '''WARNING: DO NOT place the lead on the J3 or J4 connectors on the solenoid driver board.'''
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Replacing a failed Solenoid Transistor====
 +
If a coil has locked on, or any SE9302 (TIP-102) transistor has failed the diode test with your multimeter, replace the following components on the Solenoid Driver board as a set. In addition, also test the playfield coil disconnected from the game wires,  with the ohm setting. The coil should have a value higher than 3 ohms up to around 15 ohms. Lower than 3 ohms is a dead short and will heat up and burn up components if the fuse does not blow. The coil diodes should also be replaced if the coil has locked on. Since the diode must be disconnected from the lugs to test it, it just makes sense to clip it off, replace the diodes, and not bother to test them. 1N4004 diodes or better, (1N4005,6 or 7) should be used. You cannot test the diode in place. The diode band (cathode) goes to the power lug of the coil, usually a double wire connection, because the coils are daisy chained. If it is a single wire, look at another nearby coil and note the color of the double wire.<br>
 +
 
 +
Replace any suspect SE9302 with a TIP-102 transistor. They are used in many pinball machines, so having a small supply of them is highly recommended. The TIP-102 is a more robust transistor and can handle more current. On the SDB replace the associated diode, and resistor for any driver transistor you replace. Check the associated pin for signs of burning and replace the header pins and connector pins if they have turned brown or look corroded. If a diode and/or resistor has actually burnt, check for continuity and make sure the circuit board traces have not also burnt up. This is a common problem when someone has over-fused the game.<br>
 +
 
 +
====Solenoid Transistor Mapping====
 +
[[File:TransistorMappingThumb.jpg|160px|thumb|left|Bally Solenoid Transistor Mapping|link=Transistor Mapping for Bally Games]]
 +
[[File:Stern_TransistorMappingThumb.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Stern Solenoid Transistor Mapping|link=Solenoid Transistor Mapping for Classic Stern Games]]<br>
 +
To view a chart of what specific transistor controls a specific coil on a particular Bally game (transistor mapping), click the image at left.<br>
 +
To view a chart of what specific transistor controls a specific coil on a particular classic Stern game (transistor mapping), click the image on the right.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
==== Solenoid Driver Board Transistor, Resistor, Diode & associated Connector Chart====
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
! TIP 102
 +
! 1N4004 Diode
 +
! 330 ohm Resistor
 +
! SDB Connector
 +
|-
 +
| Q1
 +
| CR1
 +
| R9
 +
| J1-pin 2, J2-pin 9
 +
|-
 +
| Q2
 +
| CR2
 +
| R6
 +
| J1-3, J2-4
 +
|-
 +
| Q3
 +
| CR3
 +
| R16
 +
| J2-5, J3-4
 +
|-
 +
| Q4
 +
| CR4
 +
| R18
 +
| J1-5
 +
|-
 +
| Q5
 +
| CR5
 +
| R10
 +
| J2-10
 +
|-
 +
| Q6
 +
| CR6
 +
| R12
 +
| J2-11
 +
|-
 +
| Q7
 +
| CR7
 +
| R14
 +
| J2-12
 +
|-
 +
| Q8
 +
| CR8
 +
| R20
 +
| J5-10
 +
|-
 +
| Q9
 +
| CR9
 +
| R26
 +
| J5-9
 +
|-
 +
| Q10
 +
| CR10
 +
| R28
 +
| J5-15
 +
|-
 +
| Q11
 +
| CR11
 +
| R32
 +
| J5-14
 +
|-
 +
| Q12
 +
| CR12
 +
| R30
 +
| J5-13
 +
|-
 +
| Q13
 +
| CR13
 +
| R22
 +
| J5-12
 +
|-
 +
| Q14
 +
| CR14
 +
| R24
 +
| J5-11
 +
|-
 +
| Q15
 +
| CR15
 +
| R39
 +
| Flipper Relay
 +
|-
 +
| Q16
 +
| CR16
 +
| R34
 +
| J2-6, J3-7, J5-8
 +
|-
 +
| Q17
 +
| CR17
 +
| R42
 +
| J5-7
 +
|-
 +
| Q18
 +
| CR18
 +
| R45
 +
| J2-15, J3-9, J5-3
 +
|-
 +
| Q19
 +
| CR19
 +
| R47
 +
| J2-8
 +
|-
 +
| '''TIP 102'''
 +
| '''1N4004 diode'''
 +
| '''330 ohm Resistor'''
 +
| '''SDB Connector'''
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
====Solenoid Driver Upgrades====
 +
[[File:BallySternSDBupgrades.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Visual of Solenoid Driver Upgrades. Note that TP1 and TP3 are tied together.]]
 +
There are several upgrades which can be performed to reduce stress on connectors.<br>
 +
 
 +
The two 5v test points on the SDB can be tied together.  On the solder side of the driver board jump TP1 and TP3 together.  Be careful to apply this to the correct test points.  This eliminates a possible failure point on J3 pins 13 and 25.  Note that TP1 is for the raw +5vdc coming directly from the regulator.  TP3 is for the voltage that feeds all the +5vdc circuits in the driver section.  If there's a problem in the driver section, it can be isolated by removing this jumper, and removing pin 13 or 25 from J3.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Next the C23 capacitor needs a common ground with the rest of the SDB.  Jump the negative side of C23 to a convenient ground trace.  On most boards there is a ground trace in the vicinity of the C23 negative lead.  Other boards might require a longer jumper.  Scrape the solder mask off the trace to get a good solder surface to solder the jumper.  If replacing the C23 capacitor, (a good idea, they can be 30+ years old at this point), it may be possible to leave the negative lead "long" on the new capacitor.  Then, bend the leg down to the ground trace, and solder it in both the mounting hole and the trace.<br>
 +
 
 +
The C26 capacitor needs a ground upgrade similar C23 mentioned above.  Tie the negative side of C26 to the ground trace located at the perimeter of the board.  This connects both C23's and C26's negative side to a common ground on the SDB.  The goal of these modifications is to provide redundant grounds with the least resistance possible.
 +
 
 +
On the Stern SDU-100 and the older Bally AS-2518-16 boards there is a "gap" between pin J3-22 and J3-23. Both are ground connections. Use some additional solder and connect the two, bridge the "gap". Now all grounds (J3-18 thru J3-24) are tied together.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====How to Rebuild the Bally/Stern Solenoid Driver Board====
 +
The Solenoid Driver board is critical to the operation of the electronics of the game. The Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) comes in several types for Bally and Stern, and are completely interchangeable for any game of the 6800 MPU type. The SDB supplies the game with the voltages for the MPU, coils and high voltage for the displays. Recommendations are given below for replacing components to ensure proper operation and reliability. In all cases, do the ground modifications as shown in another part of this Wiki.
 +
 
 +
'''Minimum Recommendation for a Working board'''
 +
 
 +
:At a minimum, replace both large capacitors on a working or non-working board, especially if they look original. Original caps are often metallic blue or metallic silver, and are at least 30 years old and due to fail, owing to the electrolytic chemicals in the capacitor drying up. The capacitor at C23 has a factory value of 11,000uf and 20 volts, but these values are not easily found these days. An electrolytic capacitor of between 11,000uf and 16,000uf and 25 volts or greater can be safely substituted. A screw terminal capacitor makes for a easy installation, but a snap cap with leads can be used as well. Recent prices for screw terminal caps have increased greatly so this may be a factor in your decision.
 +
 
 +
:The high voltage capacitor at C26 has an original spec of 160uf and 350 volts and is an axial electrolytic capacitor. Once again, this part is difficult to encounter with these exact specs, but an axial or radial cap from 150uf to 180uf and at least 350 volts can substitute. 400v or 450v caps can be had in a radial format and size that will fit. With a radial cap you will have to make leads that bend back to the negative (-) solder pad.
 +
 
 +
'''Preferred recommendation for a working board'''
 +
 
 +
[[File:BallyAndSternFracturedSolderJoints.jpg|200px|right|thumb|Clearly fractured .156 header pins on a Bally single sided driver board]]
 +
:Besides the above, replace ALL the .100 and .156 molex header pins and the connector terminals in the nylon housings with Molex TRIFURCON Phosphor Bronze tin plated crimp terminals (Molex Part# 08-52-0113 for 18-20 gauge Wire, and 08-52-0125 for 22-26 gauge) for the .156 connectors, and Molex .100 tin plated Phosphor Bronze crimp terminals, (Molex Part#08-52-0123). Do NOT skimp on this step and just do one or the other. The receptacles can be re-used if not burnt. If replacing the receptacles, the locking or non- locking ramp type are fine. Often, the connector at J5 does not cover the last few pins. I don’t like this personally, although no harm can be done if the key is in place.
 +
 
 +
:Check every resistor that is usually covered by the plastic shield between the two big heat sinks for correct value and no sign of burn. Replace any that are suspect. Use the diode function on your multimeter to check the zener diode at VR1 and the 1N4004 diode. The zener diode can be difficult to source. See below for recommendation. <br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
'''Gold Standard for Working or NON-WORKING board'''
 +
 
 +
:It doesn’t make too much sense trying to trace down the exact problem and replacing only the bad components on a NON-WORKING board. Better to replace every possible bad component and start fresh. To ensure long life and proper operation of a working board, in ADDITION TO THE ABOVE, it is recommended that the components below are replaced regardless. Below is a list of components that effect the HV and +5 volt logic circuits on the SDB. Replace them all! * The Stern Revision J board is rather different, & a component list for that board follows. It can be identified by the extensive silk screening of each component and its function as seen in the 4th photo above, and by the HUGE 2 Watt and (2) large 1 Watt resistors. It is most often found on late date Stern games like Flight 2000 or Viper, etc.
 +
 
 +
'''Component replacement list for Bally AS2518-16 or -22 and Stern SDU100 SDBs, except * revision J'''
 +
 
 +
'''Resistors'''
 +
*R51 22k ohm 1/2Watt
 +
*R52 390 ohm 1/4 Watt
 +
*R54 8.2k ohm 1/4 Watt
 +
*R55 1.2k ohm 1/4 Watt
 +
*R56 82k ohm 1/2 Watt
 +
*R35 100k ohm 1 Watt
 +
 
 +
'''Diodes'''
 +
*CR21 1N4004 400PIV 1 amp or better (1N4007, etc.)
 +
*VR1 Zener diode 1N5275A 140 volts, 1/2 Watt.  Can Sub 1N5275B or NTE 5099A
 +
 
 +
'''Transistors'''
 +
*Q21 2N3584 250volts, 2 amp, TO-66 NPN
 +
*Q22&23         2N3440 250 volts 1 amp TO-39 NPN
 +
*Q20 LM323K (original 78H05KC or LAS1405)
 +
 
 +
'''Capacitors'''
 +
*C27&28         .01 uf 400 vdc  metal polyester capacitor
 +
 
 +
*RT1 25k ohm potentiometer (2 types) a 15mm  black one, Piher Part# PT15LH06-253A2020 or a 6mm blue one  BournsPart#3306P-1-253
 +
 
 +
'''Stern SDU100 revision J'''
 +
 
 +
*R35 100k ohm 1 Watt
 +
*R51 33k ohm 2 Watt
 +
*R52 390 ohm 1/4 W
 +
*R53 2.4k ohm 1/4 W
 +
*R54 8.2k ohm 1/4 W
 +
*R55 1.2k ohm 1/4 W
 +
*R56 82k ohm 1/2 Watt
 +
*R73 3.3 ohm 1/4 W
 +
*R74 470 ohm 1/4 W
 +
*R75 100k ohm 1 Watt
 +
*CR22 1N4004 or better
 +
*Q24 2N3904 Transistor
 +
 
 +
Other diodes, transistors and capacitors as above for AS2518-18
 +
 
 +
====Modify the Display Fuse holder====
 +
[[file:Fuse_adaptor.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Fuse adapter for the SDB allowing use of a common fuse]]<br><br><br>
 +
Some versions of the solenoid driver board have a small fuse present for the displays.  This fuse is a difficult to find, expensive, type 8AG 3/16 amp fast blow fuse. It would be best when rebuilding the SDB to replace the fuse holder with new clips and convert it to a more commonly available 3AG type. The original value of 3/16 amp can be substituted with a more common 1/4 amp fast blow fuse without worry of over fusing the circuit, due to inherent variations of tolerance by the manufacturer.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Perform the following to replace the existing 8AG fuse holder:
 +
*Bend up or clip off the upper solder lead of the clip
 +
*Move the TOP fuse holder up one hole
 +
*Solder a 20 ga. wire from the base of the clip back down to the lower hole.<br>
 +
 
 +
Be careful not to solder the clips with the inner "ears" facing in the wrong direction, or the work will have to be redone. It may be helpful to put an old 3AG fuse in the clips to aid in spacing, and assure that the "ears" are positioned correctly.  The fuse will also hold the clips in place while soldering. See the photo above. Of course, an inline fuse holder can also be used instead, but looks less professional.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Solenoid problems===
 +
Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or problems, see this section: [[General#How_coils_are_driven| How coils are turned on]].<br>
 +
 
 +
One very common issue with solenoids not functioning on the playfield is a blown fuse under the playfield.  This fuse, typically a 1 amp slo-blo, powers all of the solenoids on the playfield, except the flippers.  The symptom of a blown playfield fuse is when the flippers, knocker, coin lockout relay, and chimes (if the game uses chimes) function in solenoid test, but no other solenoids will enable.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Game starts, ejects ball, but no other playfield coils or flippers work====
 +
On early Stern games, if the symptoms include all these:
 +
* There are no blown fuses
 +
* The game boots
 +
* The driver board relay engages
 +
* The coin door relay engages
 +
* When a game is started it ejects a ball into the shooter lane
 +
* No other playfield coils work
 +
* The flippers don't work
 +
 
 +
Be sure to check the backglass for the tilt lamp to make sure the game isn't in tilt. If it's on (or if the lamp isn't working) check the slam tilt switches and ball tilt switch. It's possible that the ball on the ball tilt assembly got stuck at the rear of the assembly.
 +
 
 +
====Solenoid Expander Board and Diodes at the Coils====
 +
[[File:BallyEightBallDeluxeSaucerCoilDualDiodes.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bally Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition Saucer Coil showing dual diode  connections at the coil lugs.]]
 +
[[File:EightBallDeluxeDualDiodeSchematic.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Bally Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition Schematic snippet showing dual diode  connections and 6 coils multiplexed by the solenoid expander board relay.]]<br>
 +
The solenoid expander board allowed additional coils to be installed in games beyond what was originally supported on the driver board. The relay essentially worked as an A/B switch for two banks of coils. Each return line could then control two different coils, depending on which way the relay was switched.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Lamp problems===
 +
 
 +
====Lamp Sockets====
 +
Most lamp problems stem from the sockets themselves.  The recommended best practice for problem sockets is to replace them.  If you want to try and get them working reliably, here are some things you can try.<br>
 +
 
 +
First off, clean the inside of the socket.  There are nice dremel tool tips to help, but even a screw driver can scratch off some crud from inside a socket.  Sometimes a light squeeze on the socket with pliers can make the bulb stay in nice and snug and be less likely to move and stop lighting.<br>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Fixing_Lamps.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Repairing Single Lamp Sockets]]
 +
The bare wire running under the playfield for controlled lamp power carries 5-6 vdc and is usually soldered onto the sockets mounting bracket.  The mounting bracket then connects to the outside of the socket.  After 30 years or so the connection from the mounting bracket to the lamp socket's outside can break.  To remedy this there are two things you can try.  You can solder the barrel of the lamp socket directly to the base of the socket (so it can no longer swivel).  This can be kind of tricky without a higher power soldering iron - if you use paste flux it is easier.  Radio Shack also sells a solder called "Crystal Clear" flux which works well.  To do this well, you need to either sand or file (the file works best and saves your fingers) the area to be soldered on the base and the barrel.  The other option is to run a small jumper wire that connects the bare wire directly to the outside of the socket, thus eliminating the poorer connection between the mounting bracket and barrel.<br>
 +
 
 +
Another less common issue is the connection between the lamp socket's solder lug (insulated wire to the driver board connects here), and the back tip of the socket (what moves out/in and is spring loaded to hold bulb in place).  What you can do here is to move the insulated wire off of the lamp socket's solder lug and solder it directly to the back of the socket tip.  This eliminates any potential connection issues with the solder lug/tab and the back pin.<br>
 +
 
 +
Before soldering onto a socket, either the barrel or the spring terminal, it must be sanded or filed clean or the solder will not stick.  Paste flux or the crystal clear flux solder recommended above will help.  If you have a temperature controlled soldering station crank it up above what you would normally use for boardwork to about 800 degrees.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Lamp_Mounting_Brackets.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Repairing Multiple Lamp Sockets Tied Together]]<br><br>
 +
Another issue is the multiple lamp mounting boards/brackets like those used in Stern Big Game, Meteor, and others.  The lamp sockets are riveted to these mounting boards and are not replaceable.  These mounting boards suffer from a bad connection to the bare controlled lamp wire running under the playfield.  You can either solder each lamp barrel to the base plate or run a daisy chain wire from barrel to barrel to help fix issues with the sockets.  Again, lamp sockets need to be sanded (200 grit works well) or filed before solder will stick.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
==== General Illumination (GI) Problems ====
 +
 
 +
[[File:BallyBurnedGIHeader.jpg|left|thumb|200px|The primary cause for General Illumination problems...burned connectors.]]<br>
 +
One of the main reasons for lack of GI in Bally/Stern games is burned connectors on the rectifier board. If your game's GI connector looks like the one pictured at left, it's time to replace it. Generally, it's good policy to replace both the male header pins and the pins within the female plug.
 +
 
 +
The female plug can be reused if not too toasty. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, drive the blade through the slot where the pin's "tang" locks it into place. This will release the tang and smash the old pin. Only moderate hand pressure is needed to accomplish this. Once the tang has been released, the wire and pin should pull from the female housing easily. Crimp a new TriFurcon pin on to improve connectivity. Be sure that the "key pin" is installed on the female plug in the right location.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
==== Controlled Lamp Problems ====
 +
 
 +
=====Lamp Driver Board SCR / Connection Chart=====
 +
{|class="wikitable"
 +
! scope="col" | SCR
 +
! scope="col" | MC14514
 +
! scope="col" | Connection
 +
! scope="col" | SCR
 +
! scope="col" | MC14514
 +
! scope="col" | Connection
 +
! scope="col" | SCR
 +
! scope="col" | MC14514
 +
! scope="col" | Connection
 +
! scope="col" | SCR
 +
! scope="col" | MC14514
 +
! scope="col" | Connection
 +
 +
|-
 +
| Q1 || U1 || J1-24 || Q16 || U1 || J2-22 || Q31 || U3 || J2-2 || Q46 || U4 || J3-18
 +
|-
 +
| Q2 || U1 || J1-25 || Q17 || U2 || J1-11 || Q32 || U3 || J3-27 || Q47 || U4 || J2-10
 +
|-
 +
| Q3 || U1 || J1-26, J2-21 || Q18 || U2 || J2-20 || Q33 || U3 || J2-11 || Q48 || U3 || J3-16
 +
|-
 +
| Q4 || U1 || J1-28 || Q19 || U2 || J2-15 || Q34 || U2 || J1-2 || Q49 || U3 || J3-17
 +
|-
 +
| Q5 || U1 || J2-16 || Q20 || U3 || J1-13 || Q35 || U2 || J1-3 || Q50 || U4 || J3-12
 +
|-
 +
| Q6 || U1 || J2-14 || Q21 || U2 || J1-12, J2-12 || Q36 || U3 || J3-26 || Q51 || U4 || J3-15
 +
|-
 +
| Q7 || U1 || J1-27, J2-13 || Q22 || U2 || J1-10 || Q37 || U3 || J2-23 || Q52 || U4 || J2-5, J3-13
 +
|-
 +
| Q8 || U1 || J1-23 || Q23 || U2 || J1-4, J2-8 || Q38 || U3 || J3-25 || Q53 || U4 || J2-3, J3-14
 +
|-
 +
| Q9 || U1 || J1-14 || Q24 || U2 || J1-5 || Q39 || U3 || J2-4, J3-24 || Q54 || U4 || J3-11
 +
|-
 +
| Q10 || U1 || J1-15 || Q25 || U2 || J1-6 || Q40 || U3 || J2-9, J3-22 || Q55 || U4 || J3-9
 +
|-
 +
| Q11 || U1 || J1-16 || Q26 || U2 || J1-7 || Q41 || U3 || J3-20 || Q56 || U4 || J3-10
 +
|-
 +
| Q12 || U1 || J1-19 || Q27 || U2 || J1-9 || Q42 || U3 || J3-21 || Q57 || U4 || J3-1
 +
|-
 +
| Q13 || U1 || J1-17 || Q28 || U2 || J1-8 || Q43 || U3 || J2-7 || Q58 || U4 || J3-2
 +
|-
 +
| Q14 || U1 || J1-18 || Q29 || U2 || J1-1 || Q44 || U3 || J3-19 || Q59 || U4 || J3-4
 +
|-
 +
| Q15 || U1 || J2-23 || Q30 || U3 || J2-6 || Q45 || U4 || J2-1 || Q60 || U4 || J3-3
 +
|}
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===== Failed Lamp SCRs =====
 +
[[File:Mcr106_subbed_for_2n5060.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Using an MCR-106 in place of a 2N5060]]
 +
<b>Lamp locked on</b><br>
 +
The usual cause for a lamp that is stuck on is a failed SCR.  Bally/Stern employed two different SCR parts to control lamps. The MCR-106 is able to drive two lamps at the same time. The smaller 2N5060 will drive one lamp only. These SCRs fail from sinking too much current, from old blackened bulbs (which draw more current) or from being shorted to something under the playfield carrying high voltage (solenoids). If you accidentally short several lamps together, this can cause the SCR to fail also.<br>
 +
 
 +
If you are in a bind it is possible to use an MCR-106 in place of a 2N5060, with one caveat. Two legs of the MCR-106 SCR need to be reversed.  As you are looking at the board the top and middle leg of the MCR-106 need to be reversed.
 +
<br>
 +
'''<nowiki>**Note:</nowiki>''' a 2N5060 '''CANNOT''' be used instead of an MCR106 which drives more than one lamp.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
<b>Lamp never lights</b><br>
 +
A lamp that never lights might be caused by a failed SCR or the connection from the lamp driver board to the lamp socket. Use your meter's continuity test to "buzz" the path from the SCR to the lamp itself. Lack of continuity means that either the lamp driver board male header/female housing connector or the wire from the female housing to the lamp socket is severed.<br>
 +
 
 +
Some lamp boards feature buffer and (4514) decoder chips. A failed buffer or decoder chip can prevent a lamp from lighting. If you have multiple lamps out, and you have tested the wiring for each, look back to the chips to see if the lamps in question share a chip in common.  Refer to the game's schematics. If so, and the SCRs have tested good, the chip may have failed. A logic probe is the best tool for this diagnosis.
 +
 
 +
[[File:LampDriverBoardCrackedHeaderPins.jpg|left|thumb|200px|A Bally Lamp Driver board with clearly cracked header pins. Cracked headers like these cause the lamp to be intermittent or to not light at all.]]<br>
 +
The .100 headers on  lamp driver boards are subject to a lot of stress. This is mostly because the backbox cabling has typically been liberated from the "tie downs" that were installed at the factory. The constant pull of gravity, vibration, etc, generally causes the top or lower several header pin solder joints to crack. You can attempt to "reflow" the solder on these joints, but they don't take solder well. The absolute best course of action is to replace the header pins since in addition to cracked solder joints, the header pins themselves lose their plating, another source negative impact on reliability.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Bally LDB MCR106.JPG|left|thumb|200px|Bally Lamp Driver board using MCR-106 SCRs]]
 +
[[File:Stern LDB MCR106.JPG|right|thumb|200px|Stern Lamp Driver board using MCR-106 SCRs]]<br>
 +
Pay close attention to the orientation of an MCR-106 when replacing one. Bally and Stern lamp driver board MCR-106s are installed facing opposite directions.  T106 SCRs in a TO-202 package (the style with an extended metal tab) are easily oriented per the board silkscreen.
 +
[[File:MCR-106OrientationBallySternLampDriverBoard.jpg|left|thumb|200px|A Bally/Stern lamp driver board, showing proper orientation of smaller MCR-106 SCRs. Note the position of the metal part of the component relative to the silkscreen.]]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===== Testing Lamp Driver SCRs =====
 +
<b>Testing a 2N5060 (also 2N5061, etc)</b>
 +
[[File:2N5060Test.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing a 2N5060]]
 +
*Set the DMM to diode check
 +
*Place the <font color=red><b>red</b></font> lead on the center leg (the "G" leg)
 +
*Place the <b>black</b> lead on the lower left lead (the "C" leg)
 +
*A measurement between .5 and .8 should be displayed.
 +
*Place the <b>black</b> lead on the center leg (the "G" leg)
 +
*Place the <font color=red><b>red</b></font> lead on the lower left lead (the "C" leg)
 +
*A measurement between 1.4 and 1.6 should be displayed.
 +
*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
<b>Testing an MCR-106</b>
 +
[[File:MCR-106Test.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Testing an MCR-106]]
 +
*Set the DMM to diode check
 +
*Place the <font color=red><b>red</b></font> lead on the left leg (the "G" leg)
 +
*Place the <b>black</b> lead on the right lead (the "C" leg)
 +
*A measurement between .5 and .8 should be displayed.
 +
*Place the <b>black</b> lead on the left leg (the "G" leg)
 +
*Place the <font color=red><b>red</b></font> lead on the right lead (the "C" leg)
 +
*A measurement between 1.4 and 1.6 should be displayed.
 +
*Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===== No Controlled Lamps Working =====
 +
If all of the controlled lamps are not working properly in the backbox, on the playfield, or both, this could be due to several reasons. Bad / marginal connectors, either on the rectifier board itself (male header pins) or the female housing that connects to it. A bad lamp bridge rectifier or blown controlled lamp fuse on the rectifier board could cause this too.  The easiest way to determine if the controlled lamps are receiving the proper voltage on the playfield or backbox is to probe the bare controlled lamp bus wire (make certain to probe the controlled lamp bus and not the general illumination bus) on either or both areas with the red lead of a DMM.  Then, connect the black lead of the DMM to a known, solid ground.  Voltage should read approximately in the 6-8vdc range.<br>
 +
 
 +
Additionally, if the +5vdc is missing on the lamp driver board, no lamps will light.  Only one incoming pin (pin 3) on the J4 connection (upper left connection on board) of the lamp driver board carries the +5vdc.  Check for the presence of +5vdc at TP1 of the lamp driver board.<br>
 +
 
 +
Finally, the lack of a solid ground on the lamp driver board will also cause all lamps not to light.  Most all of the different variations of the lamp driver board have the grounds secured via the screws which fasten the board to the backbox.  However, the second generation of the Bally lamp driver board, the AS-2518-23, does not have these extra ground points.  Since all of the lamp driver boards are interchangeable, there is the potential to have any one of the boards in the backbox.  Pins 1, 2, and 11 of the J4 connection (upper left connection on board) carry the incoming grounds for the lamp driver board.  The grounds originate from pins 3, 4, and 14 at connector J3 of the rectifier board.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===== Dim controlled lamps =====
 +
The biggest cause of dim controlled lamps is a weak connection via the power chain's connectors.  The original lamp driver bridge rectifier is slightly undersized on the rectifier board at 8 amps; either changing to #47 bulbs can alleviate some of the load placed on this bridge, or it can be upgraded to a larger capacity (25 amp or higher).  Changing the header pins on the rectifier board to a 10 amp capable pin plus changing the connector pins to Trifurcon connectors will help the power chain.  Application of a dielectric to prevent oxidation can help prevent new pins from prematurely wearing out, but do not apply any chemical to old, tarnished pins.<br>
 +
 
 +
The fuse clips on the rectifier board can get tarnished, too.  Replacement with high current phosphor-bronze clips will help dimming issues.  The less resistance in the power chain the better and brighter your lamps will be.
 +
 
 +
Another thing that can cause dim controlled lamps is a partially failed BR1 on the power transformer module assembly. Measure the voltage at TP1 on the power supply board--if the voltage is found to be about 2.5-2.8vdc, also measure it for AC voltage. If it reads 2.5vac on the test point, replace BR1. What happens is one of the diodes in the bridge fails open and causing an AC bias to be on the DC voltage pushing the voltage down when the AC wave goes opposite to the DC voltage.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===== Lamp Driver Board Attacked by Battery Corrosion =====
 +
[[File:Lamp_board_battery_corrosion.jpg|300px|left|thumb|Lamp Board Attacked by Alkaline Corrosion]]<br><br>
 +
[[File:Bally AS-2518-23 Bat Damage.JPG|300px|right|thumb|Lamp Board Traces Attacked by a Leaky MPU battery]]
 +
Corrosion can drip down from the battery on the MPU board to the lamp board. Corrosion that has seeped into the SCR's can cause them to act erratic, (such as not fully turning on, or not fully turning off the controlled lamp) not switching the lamp on (even if the lamp is replaced), or a lamp being "stuck" on. If this erratic behavior is happening, inspect the lamps SCR for green/black corrosion on the legs and metal backs. Replace any components with signs of corrosion on them, even if they seem to operate normally--they will eventually fail.
 +
 
 +
Although it is not nearly as common, a leaky battery can destroy the traces on the solder side of the lamp driver board.  If everything else has been checked regarding some lamps not functioning, remove the lamp driver board from the game, turn the board over, and inspect the board traces.  Primarily the top horizontal traces are the most susceptible to alkali damage. Since alkali damage is very unpredictable, any of the other areas of the board may be damaged.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Testing Lamp Outputs=====
 +
The group who designed the Bally boardset was a crafty bunch!  Did you know that there is already a built in set up to test a lamp driver output?  The diagnostic LED on the MPU board can double as a lamp output tester.  What is needed is an alligator test lead and a component lead clipping or finishing nail.  With the power off, attach one end of the alligator test lead to TP6 located on the MPU board.  TP6 is located in the vicinity of of the diagnostic LED.  Next, attached the other end of the test lead to the component lead clipping or finishing nail.  Turn the game on, and place it into lamp test mode.  Carefully place the lead with the finishing nail into one of the many lamp outputs on the lamp driver board (J1, J2, or J3).  If the LED lights, the SCR and / or the header connection on the lamp driver output is good.  If the LED does not light, suspect either a bad SCR, a cracked header joint, or a discontinuity between the SCR and the header pin.  Pretty neat, huh?
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===== Lamp-to-SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) Mapping for Classic Stern Games =====
 +
 
 +
Click [[Lamp Transistor Mapping for Classic Stern Games|here]] to access a table showing the mapping from the Lamp Driver Board (LDB) SCRs to individual feature lamps for some classic Stern games.
 +
 
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Controlled Lamp Fuse Blows Instantly (With LED Adapter Add-on Boards)=====
 +
If the fuse for the controlled lamps blows almost instantly at power up, and there are LED adapter add-on boards installed on the lamp board connectors, it's possible that there is an issue on one or more of the add-on boards. Remove each add-on board individually to isolate which one might be causing the problem. Check for solder splashes or solder bridges on the suspected board(s). Also, if the add-on boards have SIP resistor arrays/networks, it's possible one or more of these components may have failed.
 +
 
 +
===AS-2518-147 Combo Solenoid/Lamp Driver Board===
 +
The AS-2518-147 is a combination Solenoid, Lamp, and Voltage regulator board. It is much like a AS-2518-16 or a AS-2518-22 board but includes some lamp driver circuitry.
 +
 
 +
====AS-2518-147 ground updates / bullet proofing====
 +
The following are several ground updates to aid in reducing current stress on the connectors of the -147 combo board. Applying these ground mods should aid in reducing browned charred connectors and provide redundant grounds with the least resistance possible.<br>
 +
[[File:AS-2518-147_gnd_bulletProofing-1.jpg|thumb|left|300px|AS-2518-147 overall ground-mod plan]]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
<ol>
 +
<li>The two 5v test points can be tied together. On the solder side of the driver board jump TP1 and J3-25 together. This eliminates a possible failure point on J3 pins 13 and 25. J3-25 is for the voltage that feeds all the +5vdc circuits in the driver section. If there's a problem in the driver section, it can be isolated by removing this jumper, and removing pin 13 or 25 from J3.
 +
[[File:AS-2518-147_gnd_bulletProofing.jpg|thumb|left|300px|AS-2518-147 ground mods - Step 1 & 2]]</li><br clear=all>
 +
<li>The C4 and C5 capacitors need a common ground with the rest of the SDB. Jump the negative side of C4 to the above C5 negative trace and continue to the main ground trace on the edge of the board. Scrape the solder mask off the trace to get a good solder surface to solder the jumper.</li>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
<li>Add a jumper from the large lampdriver ground trace to the main ground trace on the edge of the board.<br>
 +
[[File:AS-2518-147_gnd_bulletProofing-3.jpg|thumb|left|300px|AS-2518-147 Step#3]]</li>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
<li>Add a jumper from the solenoid driver section ground trace to the main ground trace.<br>
 +
[[File:AS-2518-147_gnd_bulletProofing-4.jpg|thumb|left|300px|AS-2518-147 Step#4]]</li>
 +
</ol>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Switch problems===
 +
[[File:Bally Stern switch matrix.png|thumb|left|300px|Bally / Stern 5 x 8 Switch Matrix]]<br>
 +
 
 +
Bally/Stern games use a switch matrix arranged as a 5x8 matrix for a total capability of 40 switches.  Some games (Medusa, Spectrum, and others) have a sixth column of switches making a total of 48 switches in a 6x8 matrix.  This guide will concentrate on the "normal" 5x8 matrix but the information applies also to the 6x8 matrix; the sixth column signal wire is merely in a different location, and for switch matrix troubleshooting purposes the information is interchangeable.<br>
 +
 
 +
Columns 0 and 1 are shared by the playfield and cabinet switches.  Any problems with switches in these columns can be further diagnosed by disconnecting the J2 connector (playfield) or J3 connector (cabinet) to isolate the playfield, cabinet, or both from switch tests.  Switch test on Bally/Stern machines is entered by pressing the self-test button on the coin door 4 or 5 times, depending on the game.  The stock software in each game only shows the lowest switch number that's closed; multiple closures or an entire row/column closed will still only show the lowest switch number.  (There is a special test rom available that will walk through all the closed switches one at a time).
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Start a switch diagnostic test by removing all balls from a game and placing all drop targets into an upright position.  Enter switch test and you should have a zero flashing on the match display, signifying no closed switches.  Use the chart from the manual in your game if you see a closed switch to investigate why it's showing closed.<br>
 +
 
 +
Probable reasons for a stuck switch are:
 +
 
 +
* points or blades adjusted too closely/touching
 +
* switch diode touching lamps/other wiring
 +
* solder splashes/conductive debris on a switch
 +
* shorted switch capacitor, if used<br>
 +
 
 +
Here is where disconnecting the playfield will help.  If you disconnect the switch connector for the playfield from the MPU board (J2) and the stuck switch stays, you know the problem is not on the playfield.  If the switch is in column 0 or 1, you might have a problem with the switch matrix going to the cabinet.  It is common for switches on the coin door to become mangled, either being stuck closed or shorted to the coin door in some way.  You can disconnect the coin door separately while in switch test to see if the switch faults clear.<br>
 +
 
 +
If you disconnect both J2 and J3 isolating all switches in the game from the MPU board, you should always see the flashing 0 indicating no switches closed in switch test.  If you do not, there is a board fault that should be investigated and corrected.  All of the signals for pulsing and reading the switch matrix originate and terminate at the U10 6821 PIA chip.  As a quick test for this chip, you can swap it with the U11 PIA to see if the problem's symptoms change.  If they do or the switch matrix starts to work correctly, you have a probably failed PIA chip and should replace it.  Be aware that the U11 PIA chip controls the solenoids in the game, so if the U10 chip is bad in any way, you might have locked on solenoids causing more damage if your fuse doesn't blow.  Before swapping the PIA chips, remove the solenoid driver board's .156 connectors to the solenoids to prevent damage.  You could also just remove the J4 connector that feeds the solenoid driver board's input signals.  (Lower right connector on the SDB).<br>
 +
 
 +
Sometimes due to wiring error a switch diode is reversed in the switch matrix, either from previous repair work, or even from the factory.  When this happens, you will see the wrong switch closing.  Test for this by entering switch test and activating each switch one at a time referencing the switch chart in the manual, ensuring that each switch reports the correct switch number.  This means that each drop bank will need to be reset by hand after each drop target test.  If the game in question has a spinner, test the spinner with the playfield down and then place a piece of paper between its switch points so testing other switches with the playfield up doesn't show a false positive on the spinner from movement.<br>
 +
 
 +
Momentary contact switches will sometimes have a switch capacitor installed.  The purpose of this capacitor is to ensure the MPU board "sees" very quick hits to a tilt, pop bumper, sling, or standup target.  Switch capacitors should not be installed on rollover, saucer, spinner, outhole, or trough switches.  There are a few games that do have capacitors installed on these switches.  You can cut these off safely and not worry about replacing them.<br>
 +
 
 +
A symptom of a failed (shorted) switch capacitor will be a stuck switch showing in the switch test, and no scoring/scoring once/multiple repeated scoring in gameplay.  As a test, you can cut one leg of the capacitor off a suspect switch and see if the problem goes away.  If it does, the capacitor was probably bad and you can replace it. (A 0.047 mfd 16 volt or higher non-polarized ceramic disc replacement works well.)<br>
 +
 
 +
Quick hits to switches that do not have capacitors installed can have a capacitor installed to improve performance, or if you have a pop or sling that activates when hit but does not score.  You can add the 0.047 mfd capacitor to these switches on the two lugs that do not have the diode installed; one end of the capacitor goes to the blade lug that has one end of the diode but not the matrix wiring, and the other end of the capacitor goes to the switch lug that only has the matrix wires without the diode.  If you do add a capacitor to a sling or pop bumper, be aware that it is possible for radio frequency interference from a coil's collapsing magnetic field to be picked up by the capacitor, causing the switch to activate.  This is most common with flipper coils - holding a flipper up and releasing generates a short pulse of radio frequency static.<br>
 +
 
 +
It is good preventative maintenance on machines that have switch capacitors to methodically replace each and every one with a new one.  Adding a switch capacitor to pops and slings is a good idea also as you can run a slightly larger switch gap on the activation switches, which helps to prevent switch bounce and repeat, unwanted, activations.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
 
 +
=====Leaf Switch Theory,Operation and Adjustment=====
 +
 
 +
Leaf switches in pinball games come in 4 formats: Normally Open (N.O.), Normally Closed (N.C.), Break-Make, & Make-Make, the last 2 of which are really combinations of a N.O. and/or a N.C. switch. Regardless of their function, all switches are in fact, a N.O. or N.C. type.
 +
 
 +
Leaf switches in electronic games are of 2 compositions,at least 2 bronze blades each holding a gold flashed contact or a Tungsten contact. Since gold is a very high conductor of electricity, it is used on most switches, with the exception of the flipper cabinet and End of Stroke (EOS) contacts, which are tungsten. Gold will not tarnish or turn black, but sometimes gets dirty from solenoid dust, and this may effect its conductivity. Tungsten flipper contacts must be redressed with an ignition-type flat file as used in automotive repair, as the contacts are too hard to be smoothed by sandpaper or flex file abrasive. Gold flashed contacts must NEVER be cleaned with a file or sandpaper. A business card, or thin cardboard, is all that is necessary to clean electronic gold flashed contacts. If they seems to have a foreign substance on them, a Q-Tip with a degreaser like Mean Green, or alcohol can be used and then wiped off. Contact cleaner must NOT be sprayed liberally on the switch, but can be applied with a swab.
 +
 
 +
=====Normally Open (N.O.) Switch=====
 +
[[file:SwitchNormallyOpen.jpg|thumb|left|Normally Open Switch in resting state]][[file:GenericSchematicSwitchDiagram.jpg|thumb|right|Schematic rendering of N.O. & N.C. switches]]
 +
This is a leaf switch that has 2 contacts that complete a circuit when pushed closed by some mechanical device. The switch re-opens when the device moves away from the moveable contact, and the springiness of the blade opens the circuit.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Normally Closed (N.C.)Switch=====
 +
[[file:SwitchNormallyClosedLabelled.jpg|thumb|left|Normally Closed (N.C.) switch in resting state with optional nylon spacer]]
 +
This type of switch opens a circuit when a mechanical device pushes against the blade. <br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Break-Make switch=====
 +
[[file:SwitchMakeBreakLabelled.jpg|thumb|left|Break-Make switch in resting state]]
 +
This switch is really a composite of a N.O. and a N.C. switch with just three blades instead of four. The movable center blade has contacts on BOTH sides. Proper adjustment insures that when a device moves the center blade towards the open contact, the CLOSED switch OPENS BEFORE the center contact touches the open switch’s contact. When the pressure is released, the center blade returns to its N.C. side and re-makes contact. This type of switch is often used on relays. A Make-Break switch is really the same, just upside-down, or in reverse, of the order of actions of a Break-Make switch. Special care should be taken with a Make-Break switch that the three blades are not at any time shorted together. This can happen often when the blade stiffener is maladjusted, and contacts the other blade of the pair.  Note that this type of switch is rarely seen in Bally/Stern solid state machines.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Make-Make switch=====
 +
[[file:SwitchMakeMakeLabelled.jpg|thumb|left|Make-Make switch in resting state]]
 +
A make-make switch is a composite switch consisting of two N.O. switches using only 3 blades. When mechanical pressure is applied to the blade, the switch “makes” or closes the circuit, and continues to move until a second switch contact is closed, tying all 3 blades together.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Adjusting Switch Gaps=====
 +
Proper switch clearance gaps are crucial for correct operation of any pinball game. Very many problems in games come down to a problem with incorrect operation of a switch. The switch blades are made up of phosphor bronze, which has high conductivity, resilience to form and excellent soldering characteristics, but has the drawback of being brittle compared to copper. Switch blades therefore, are commonly broken by the game, or careless actions by the repair person. A switch adjusting tool, purchased or homemade, is a necessity. Pliers or screwdrivers might be used in special circumstances, or in extremis, but are not best practice.
 +
 
 +
Switches in games are designed to have a degree of over-travel, which creates a wiping motion that helps clean the switch. The contacts must meet, stay together and slide across the face of the contact slightly, to be perfectly adjusted. They also must be gapped wide enough that they do not bounce, causing multiple switch closures. This problem is seen often in electronic games, when the rapid nature of the switch closures cause machine-gunning of the slingshots .
 +
 
 +
Before adjusting switches, make certain the screws holding the switch stacks are down tightly. Bakelite spacers in the switch stacks, due to excessive moisture, have occasionally shrunk by drying out, causing poor adjustment.  After tightening a switch stack, be sure to recheck the gap of each switch.
 +
 
 +
To adjust a leaf switch, first make sure the switch stack of bakelite or plastic spacers and blades are tightly packed against each other by giving the 2 screws a twist of your screwdriver. As long as there is no screw movement with reasonable pressure, you can procede. Some switches have a regular nut on the backside instead of a speednut, which will require holding it as you turn.
 +
 
 +
Using your switch adjusting tool, put twisting pressure on the moveable switch blade as close to the switch stack as possible, and include the blade stiffener(if present) in the adjuster slot. Try to use as little force and change of gap as possible, and incrementally reach your gap goal. Using too much force and a back and forth gap readjustment, tends to bend and weaken the switch blade, and can make a deformed switch blade difficult to set for correct operation. This is often seen in games that have been “hacked”, and sometimes the only way to remedy the situation is to replace the entire switch, or disassemble it entirely. Cycle and recycle the mechanical device that activates the switch and observe the switch for proper gap, wiping action and release.
 +
 
 +
=====Recommended Gap Specifications=====
 +
Kicking rubber, or slingshot switches usually have a generous gap, at least 1/16", due to the rubber ring pushing back against the switch, and a bit of trial and error will be necessary to find the ideal gap setting. Pop bumper switches and scoring “dead” bumper switches,  should have a gap of 1/64" for the actuating switch under the spoon, and a 1/32" gap for the score switch when open. Flipper cabinet switch have a generous gap which can be adjusted to suit the owner of the machine to provide a good "feel". All other types of switches will probably function well with a 1/32" gap, and this would be a starting point, modifying the gap on a case by case basis.
 +
 
 +
=====The Importance of Diodes and Capacitors on Switches=====
 +
[[file:DiodeOrientation.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Orientation of Diodes]]
 +
[[file:Ceramic_Capacitor.jpg|150px|thumb|right| A ceramic capacitor of the type used on switch. '''NOTE:''' The number is NOT the correct value for switches.  Use 0.047 mfd for replacement]]<br>
 +
On all Bally and Stern solid-state (SS) pinball games, there '''MUST''' be a diode connected to each pair of switch blades. The diode’s purpose is to isolate the switch from the other switches in the switch matrix.  A shorted or reversed diode will cause the MPU to read the strobe signal on the wrong return line, causing a switch read error. <br>
 +
 
 +
Bally (and Stern) used a matrix of 5 columns (strobes, designated 0-4) and 8 rows (returns, designated 0-7) allowing for 40 switches.  Some Bally games have a sixth column allowing for 48 total switches.  The sixth column games re-use a signal pin from the earlier games that was the sound board address "E" pin.  Stern uses this same pin for the 7th digit enable on their displays, and never used it for their sound boards.  No Stern game has a sixth column of switches.<br>
 +
 
 +
Bally and Stern both state 1N4004s as original, but 1N4148 diodes can be used, and in some cases, were used from the factory.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Switch Capacitor Purpose and Failure=====
 +
[[file:BallySternSwitchClosureCapacitor.jpg|300px|thumb|left|A typical standup target with an OEM switch capacitor. The capacitor is the green disk. The other component is the isolation diode.]]
 +
[[file:BallySwitchCapacitor.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Schematic showing capacitor connections relative to switch and switch isolation diode. Image from Bally Silverball Mania.]]
 +
<br>
 +
Capacitors are used on switches that may open and close very rapidly, to lengthen the switch pulse that the MPU can read. Not all switches will have capacitors. Standup targets, pop bumpers, slings, and tilt mechanisms are switches that benefit from a capacitor.  All switches that need a quick reaction can have switch capacitors added to them (such as rollover buttons). These are ceramic non-polarized capacitors with a value of .047 or .050 uf and 16 volts or greater. A commonly available cap is the .047 uf/50 volt through Mouser P/N 140-50U5-473M-RC.
 +
 
 +
The factory-installed caps are often damaged by the high wattage industrial soldering irons used in manufacturing of the games, or they succumb to the vibration over time and no longer serve their purpose of lengthening the switch closures so that the MPU can read them. Often times, a technician will clip the cap off to diagnose a stuck switch problem and not bother to replace it. The switch will still operate in this fashion for the most part, but might not always detect rapid or brief switch closures. For more sensitive play, the capacitor should be replaced. A failing cap can also make a switch bounce, and cause machine-gunning of a slingshot or pop bumper.
 +
 
 +
Sometimes the operation of the flippers or other solenoids will cause a phantom switch close on a pop bumper or slingshot. This is due to the way the software reads the fast react switches on those mechanisms.  The RF produced by the flipper coil's collapsing EMF field is picked up by the switch capacitor, causing the pop or sling to fire.  In most cases, no score is added; the mechanism just operates.  Keeping the leads short on the switch capacitors might reduce their tendency to pick up this stray RF in the machine.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Proper Location of Wiring, Diodes, & Capacitors=====
 +
Color coded wiring of the playfield switches will vary by game model and manufacturer, but the following should hold true for any Bally or Stern game made from at least 1977 to 1985 . Switches may have two or three lugs, depending on function. If the switch has 3 lugs, one of them is a '''DEAD LUG''', which is electrically isolated from the other switch blades and ground. It may be that the dead lug is off to the side, or positioned the same as the other lug, and it may be difficult to visually verify which is the dead lug. The Dead Lug does not have a blade. The purpose of the dead lug is to have a isolated soldering point for the '''COLUMN''' wire(s) and the '''NON-banded''' (anode) end of the diode.
 +
[[file:BallySwitchwithDiode.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Switch capacitor is wired as shown, some switches will not have one.]]
 +
[[file:SternSwitchwithDiodeCapac.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A stand up target with capacitor & diode]]<br>
 +
A 3 lug switch will have the following connections.
 +
 
 +
* A switch capacitor (if required) between the 2 switch blades.
 +
* A '''ROW''' wire(s), (with a capacitor leg, if needed) to one end of either switch blade
 +
* A '''COLUMN''' wire (usually daisy chained) plus the NON-banded end of the diode to the DEAD LUG
 +
* The '''BANDED''' (cathode) end of the diode to the opposing switch blade, either by itself, or sharing the lug with a leg of the capacitor
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Remember that switches are usually daisy-chained together, so except for the last switch in a group, there will be a common COLUMN wire (sometimes NOT insulated) between each switch, along with the NON-banded diode. Any break is this wire will cause all the switches below it to not function. Keep in mind that the schematics show a logic progression of switches which may or may not match the physical chain under the playfield. A failed or leaky diode can only be tested for by desoldering one end of the diode & checking with the diode test function of your multimeter. It is very little more work to just simply replace the diode with new if it is suspected.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Troubleshooting multi- ball games that will not start=====
 +
There are Bally (and some Stern) multi-ball games produced which require ALL balls to be in the correct position before a game will start. If a pinball is stuck on the playfield, missing, or the switch does not register, is broken or maladjusted, then the game will not start. The symptoms each game shows varies. After the game boots, a few insert lights may flash repeatedly, or the game will not coin up, the general illumination will not light and credits will not count down, etc. Check the chart below for specific games.
 +
 
 +
These switches can be checked in the game diagnostic switch test see if they are stuck closed, or manually operated to see if they register. Remember that only the LOWEST number closed switch will appear on the display, so if other switches are closed or have a fault, they must be cleared to check for the higher switch number.
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
! Game
 +
! # of balls
 +
! Symptoms
 +
! Check switch
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Centaur
 +
| 5
 +
| All zeros on; displays flicker
 +
| #01 Ball trough 4
 +
#02 Ball trough 5
 +
#08 Outhole (will start with #01 or #02)
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Elektra
 +
| 2
 +
| Will not start; displays blank
 +
| #01 Outhole
 +
#02 Left/Right of Outhole (Starts with #01 or #02)
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Embryon
 +
| 2
 +
| Always starts
 +
| #05 Left/Right of Outhole
 +
  #08 Outhole
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Fathom
 +
| 3
 +
| Won't start; no GI, 2 insert lights flash, displays blank
 +
| #01 Outhole
 +
  #02 Left of Outhole 1
 +
  #03 Left of Outhole 2 (Starts with #1& 2, OR #1&3)
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Fireball II
 +
| 3
 +
| Won't start; displays blank
 +
| #01 Outhole
 +
  #02 Left of Outhole
 +
  #03 Left of Outhole
 +
  #18 Right of Outhole
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Vector
 +
| 3
 +
| Won't start; displays normal
 +
| #01 Left of Outhole 2
 +
  #02 Left of Outhole 2
 +
  #03 Outhole
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Xenon
 +
| 2
 +
| Won't start; displays blank
 +
Note that game will start with only ball release 1 switch (#02) closed.
 +
| #02 Ball release 1
 +
  #28 Ball release 2
 +
 
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Freefall
 +
| 3
 +
| Won't start; displays blank; credit display shows zeroes in all 6 positions
 +
| #04 Outhole
 +
  #35 Left of Outhole 1 (closest to outhole) or #38 Shooter Lane
 +
  #34 Left of Outhole 2
 +
  #33 Left of Outhole 3 (closest to shooter lane)
 +
 
 +
|-align=center
 +
| Flight 2000
 +
| 3
 +
| Won't start; all player displays show HSTD; credit display blank
 +
|
 +
  #33 Outhole Right
 +
  #34 Outhole Center
 +
  #35 Outhole Left
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
*Note: Neither Freefall nor Flight 2000 will go into test mode, until switches 33 (or 38 - shooter lane with Freefall), 34, & 35 are closed.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Electrical short troubleshooting Fuse helper=====
 +
 
 +
[[file:Circuit-Breaker-Adapter.jpg|thumb|left|alt=alternative text|Circuit breaker with a blown fuse soldered in position]]As an aid to finding the cause for an electrical short, you can make a circuit breaker tool to eliminate the need to constantly replace a fuse, while you investigate the cause. This could save you money in the long run. It is better to under-fuse the connection by a small amount, then to use the rated fuse rating, so a 3 amp circuit breaker could be used on a 5 amp fuse holder, or a 10 amp breaker for a 20 amp G.I. fuse holder. The very small GMA fuses (5x20mm) will probably need some kind of jumper wire setup.
 +
 
 +
*a burned out fuse of any amperage or voltage (you were saving them just for such a thing!)
 +
*a circuit breaker of 1, 3, 5, or 10 amps, whatever amperage you require for the circuit you are troubleshooting. Buy ones like Mouser P/N 691-CMB10311C3NBA (Carling)  or 655-W57-XB7A4A10-10 (Tyco).
 +
 
 +
Solder the burned out fuse to the spade terminals of the circuit breaker as shown in the photo. Alternatively, make a two wire female spade mini harness, and solder the bare wires to each ends of the bad fuse and attach the circuit breaker that way.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Display problems===
 +
 
 +
====Display High Voltage Section====
 +
'''Bally High Voltage Section Repair'''<br><br>
 +
WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don't continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.
 +
 
 +
<span style="color:#FF0000">'''WARNING: The case of the 2N3584 (Q21) high voltage transistor is live!!!  Touching the case will result in a dangerous shock!!!''' Also, some Stern solenoid driver boards use very long screws to support the protective plastic over the HV section.  These screws are not isolated from the case of the 2N3584 HV transistor.  The screws / nuts which support the protective plastic are live! </span><br><br>
 +
 
 +
If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working. On the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB), use a DMM to measure volts DC on test points TP2 and TP4, to determine if this section needs repair: <br /><br /> TP2 = 150 to 190VDC <br /> TP4 = 230VDC +/- 25VDC <br /><br /> If TP2 is less than about 150VDC or over 200VDC, the HV section is malfunctioning. It is worth mentioning that when the source display voltage rises above the core acceptable levels, the displays will still operate.  However, the increased voltage will strain the display circuitry.  In turn, the displays glass life expectancy will decrease dramatically. If TP4 is 0VDC, then power is not getting from the Power Supply board, and the problem is located either on the Power Supply, or in the wiring/connectors carrying power to the SDB, so you must correct this before working on the HV section. <br /><br />'''Replacing the components in the HV Section'''<br />(TP2=0VDC or 230VDC AND TP4=230VDC)<br /> If you prefer to replace only the failed components, follow page 50 of the [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Manufacturers/Bally/pdfs/ballyfo560.pdf Bally repair manual, F.O. 560], dtd 20 June 1977.
 +
<br /><br />Since there are not that many components, it is may be less time consuming to replace all the components in the HV section. Most of these components are located between the two large heat sinks. There is a school of thought when working with high voltage regulator circuitry that dictates replacing ALL the components, as a baked, tired, component can take out new components as well. This is one area where shotgunning the section might not be a bad idea.<br>
 +
[[Image:HVSection.png]]
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Check the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Parts_Suppliers Parts Suppliers] section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the following replacement parts (1/2 watt resistors can be substituted for 1/4 watt). <br />
 +
 
 +
{| border="1"
 +
| align="center" | '''Part'''
 +
| align="center" | '''Part No.'''
 +
| align="center" | '''Location'''
 +
|-
 +
| Transistor
 +
| 2N3584,250V,2A,NPN, <b>note:</b> a [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=105 BUX-85G] may be substituted&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
| Q21
 +
|-
 +
| Transistor
 +
| 2N3440,250V,1A,NPN
 +
| Q22,Q23(heatsink)&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| Zener diode
 +
| 1N5275A,140V,1/2W,10% or 1N5275B,140V,1/2W,5%
 +
| VR1
 +
|-
 +
| Diode
 +
| 1N4004,400PIV,1A
 +
| CR21
 +
|-
 +
| Fuse
 +
| 3/16A,8AG
 +
| F1(-22 only)
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| 22k Ohm,1/2W,5%
 +
| R51
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| 1.2k Ohm,1/4W,5%
 +
| R55
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| 82k Ohm,1/2W,5%
 +
| R56
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| 8.2k Ohm,1/4W,5%
 +
| R54
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| 390 Ohm,1/4W,5%
 +
| R52
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| 100k Ohm,1W,5%,metal film
 +
| R35
 +
|-
 +
| Capacitor
 +
| 0.01 uF, 400V metal polyester
 +
| C27,C28
 +
|-
 +
| Capacitor
 +
| 150 uF, 350V (if original, replace)
 +
| C26
 +
|-
 +
| Potentiometer&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
| 25k Ohm, PC-mount
 +
| RT1
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
Possible replacement parts for the HV-section are....
 +
 
 +
Q22 and Q23 are 2N3440 and is getting harder to find.
 +
Replacement can be a TIP50, but be aware of the correct orientation (as with all transistors).
 +
The use of a small heatsink is advised for Q23 (like Wakefield-Vette/291-H36AB).
 +
 
 +
Q21 is a 2N3284 (very expensive and hard to find).
 +
A good replacement is a BUX85 mounted on the original heatsink (very easy to do, cut the middle leg).
 +
 
 +
The zener diode VR1 is a 1N5275 and is getting harder to find.
 +
A good replacement is a Z4KE140A zener diode.
 +
 
 +
The adjustment pot RT1 (25K) is an open type and cause bad adjustment.
 +
This can/should be replaced with a Bourns 3306P-1-203 (20K).
 +
 
 +
 
 +
<br />'''Remove and replace components'''
 +
 
 +
* Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).
 +
* Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.
 +
* Stuff board with new components.
 +
* Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.
 +
* Leave a little space under components for air flow.
 +
* Bend leads on components so they won't fall out when board is inverted for soldering.
 +
* Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.
 +
* Solder the parts to the board
 +
* Clip excess off leads
 +
 
 +
<br />'''Ready to test'''<br /><br /> Prior to powering up and testing, remove all display connectors, or test with F1 removed from the SDB. I recommend connecting your DMM with a clip lead to TP2 prior to powering the game, so you don't have to probe the HV section. Power up the machine and verify TP2 voltage is 150VDC to 190VDC. If the correct voltage is read, power down the machine and reconnect all the displays and put F1 back in. Leave your DMM connected to TP2.<br /><br /> Power up the machine and adjust RT1 so TP2 reads about 150VDC to 160VDC. If some of the displays no longer light, then adjust the voltage up until they are all lit. <br /><br />New displays may require to be burned in at 190VDC for an hour or two, but then the voltage can be reduced. The lower voltage will prolong the life of the gas plasma displays. <br /><br />If TP2 is not correct after your repair, you will need to recheck your work. If you cannot find a problem with your repair, then I recommend you follow the troubleshooting steps on page 50 of the [http://gamearchive.askey.org/Pinball/Manufacturers/Bally/pdfs/ballyfo560.pdf Bally repair manual, F.O. 560], dtd 20 June 1977.
 +
 
 +
After you have repaired your HV section and verified that it is providing the correct voltage, the next part of the wiki will address how to correct problems with the displays.
 +
 
 +
====Repairing Bally/Stern Displays====
 +
This page will help you repair your Bally 6- and 7-digit displays. The information is focused on the AS-2518-21 display. Since the AS-2518-15 display is interchangeable with the "-21" display, everything mentioned here will apply to both displays. Bally 7-digit displays (AS-2518-58) work the same way, they just contain additional components to support the additional digit, and lighting of commas. Some Stern DA-100 6-digit displays are very similar to the Bally versions, and the information here will also work for them.  The Stern 7-digit display is slightly different, as its circuit board is physically deeper than any of the other displays and is not directly interchangeable with a Bally 7 digit display.  Additionally, there are some input pin differences; however, if you have the schematic you can use the information here on the display, some transistors might be labeled differently.
 +
 
 +
First off, let's make sure your malfunctioning display is even repairable. If the glass display itself is shot, there's not much that can be done except to replace it. Here's a couple of photos of things that can go wrong with the glass display.
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp-d1.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>Burn spots on the digit segments - You can't fix these but you can live with them</center><br>
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp-n1.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>Broken glass nipple - This display glass is ruined</center>
 +
 
 +
Then there's the circuit board. Most if not all of the components can be replaced without much effort, but if there is damage to the circuit board itself, it may be impossible, or unreliable to repair.
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp-b1.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>Burn marks on the driver board</center><br>
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp-b2.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>Underneath - The traces are a mess</center><br>
 +
 
 +
So we're assuming you have displays that do not fall into the categories above. If your problem is with the digits not being displayed properly, and it's NOT the MPU's fault, then it can be fixed, and fairly easily too!
 +
 
 +
'''FIRST THING''' - Before you go any further, there are two things you should do to ALL your displays, even if they seem to be working fine. First, reflow the solder on the joints for the header pins. On the bottom side of the circuit board, just heat each header pin solder joint with your soldering iron, then add a little fresh solder. Be careful not to create any solder bridges between adjoining pins, unless there is already one there. Next, replace the six 100K ohm 1/4 watt resistors with 1/2 watters. They are the ones with the color code brown-black-yellow, and are labeled R1, R3, R5, R7, R9 and R11. You'll find seven of them, but only the ones I just listed need to be replaced. For 7-digit displays there will be eight of them, so replace R56 too, along with the six I just mentioned. 1/4 watt is just too small for their circuits and often they are overheated which causes them to change their resistance. On the photo of the burnt circuit board up above, the area that was burnt was under 3 of these resistors.
 +
 
 +
'''SECOND THING''' - Connectors, connectors, connectors! There are lots of signals going from the MPU to each display driver, and if these signals are not making it due to bad wiring or connectors, then your displays will misbehave. Check all the display driver connectors for loose or broken wires, burnt pins, busted connectors, and replace or repair anything that looks bad. Remember that some of the signals are daisy-chained from display to display, and a bad connection at one display can effect the others "downstream". Then check the J2 connector on the MPU, since this is where all the signals come from. Next check the J3 connector on the solenoid driver board. There's a high voltage regulator used by the displays on this board, and J3 is where it gets the 230 VDC from the power supply (pins 6 & 3) and feeds the regulated 190 VDC to the displays (pin 8). Finally, check the J3 connector on the rectifier board, since this is where the high voltage comes from. Connectors are always a big pain!
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp-hp1.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>Header pin solder joints - Notice the cracks around the last two pins on the right</center><br>
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp-hp2.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>Header pin solder joints after being re-soldered - No cracks</center><br>
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp-r1.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>Can you find the six 100K ohm resistors (brown-black-yellow)</center><br>
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-disp-r2.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>Here they've been replaced them with 1/2 watt resistors of the same value (100K ohms)</center><br>
 +
 
 +
Now we'll look at come common problems and briefly describe the cause, but I assume you've already replaced or checked the 100K Ohm resistors and re-soldered the header pins:
 +
 
 +
=====All displays are blank=====
 +
 
 +
Most likely cause of all blank displays is a lack of high voltage. First off, check F2 on the rectifier board. It's a 3/4 Amp slow blow fuse and it's test point on the rectifier board is TP2. You should read 230 VDC at this test point. If it's OK, then check the fuse on the solenoid driver board. The high voltage regulator's output is fused and if this fuse is blown then there's probably a short somewhere on one of your displays or the wiring harness. The high voltage regulator fuse is a 3/16 Amp, but it's a bit smaller (8AG) than a standard fuse, and a hard one to find. If the fuse is not blown, then the next thing to do is verify that at least 170 VDC is making it from the regulator to the displays. Check TP2 on the solenoid driver board. It should read between 170 and 190 VDC. If it does, then the regulator is working. While you're there, if your display glasses are not new, use the small trimmer pot on near the fuse and adjust the high voltage to be 170 VDC. Older displays work just fine on 170 VDC and it's less stressful.
 +
 
 +
Next thing to check is to be sure that the 170 volts is making it to the displays. Check connector pin J3-8 on the solenoid driver board, that's where the 170 VDC leaves. Check for a good connector, and check the solder joint on the header pin. The high voltage hits all of the displays at connector J1-1 and is daisy-chained from display to display. Check these connectors and the header pins too. On at least some early Stern games like Dracula, there is a fuse for the displays mounted on the back of the backbox door, often covered by a cardboard tag. It may be that these early games came without the fuse on the SDB. Check for proper amperage and continuity on this fuse holder if no voltage is reaching the displays.
 +
 
 +
Note - If there is any light at all on the display, then it is probably repairable.  Some type of Bally display glasses will have some light on them, besides the digits.  If there is light anywhere on the display, then the glass is most likely OK and your problems are elsewhere.
 +
 
 +
[[File:Dispglow.jpg|center]]
 +
<center>See how this display is glowing when it's first turned on? This indicates that the glass is good.</center>.
 +
 
 +
<center><font color=Red>
 +
REMEMBER - 170 VDC WILL HURT!<br>
 +
TURN YOUR MACHINE OFF IF YOU'RE GOING TO MESS WITH IT BEYOND MEASURING VOLTAGES
 +
</font></center><br>
 +
 
 +
If you have 170 VDC at all of the displays, and the decoder is still working, but the displays are still blank, then there is probably a problem on the MPU or the MPU connectors, such as a "stuck-on" blanking signal, etc.
 +
 
 +
If the blanking signal for the displays is stuck high or low on the MPU then the displays will remain blank.  To check the blanking signal use your DMM or logic probe on MPU J1 P10.  During the flash tests it should remain high (5v on DMM).  Once attract mode begins it should begin pulsing (DMM will show somewhere between 1v and 4v).  If the blanking signal is stuck high or low examine the blanking circuit including CR6, U14, U20.  It could be the PIAs but unlikely as the power on flash test should check that the PIAs changes states.  I have seen CR6 be open and cause displays to be blank.
 +
 
 +
=====A single display is blank=====
 +
 
 +
If you have one display that is blank, it could be the same problems as mentioned above (lack of 170VDC), something wrong on the circuit board, or something with the glass display itself.  If you see any light glowing at all on the display, then the glass is most likely good and your problem is elsewhere.
 +
 
 +
The main cause of a single display being blank is a bad glass.  If the glass is good, then your problem is most likely a bad 4543 decoder IC.  The decoder on the display driver board is used to decode the digit data from the MPU into signals that light the proper displays.  If the decoder is blown, then this could cause the display to be blank.  A quick check with a logic probe will help you decide if the decoder is function properly.
 +
 
 +
Sometimes the solder joints on the display glass needs are cracked and need to be reflowed.  Depending on which solder joints are bad, this could cause the display to be blank.
 +
 
 +
If you can verify there is 170VDc, and the decoder is working, then it may be just a bad display.  If there is some light anywhere, then it's probably good.  If not, it may or may not be good.  A totally blank display is the hardest thing to fix.  If everything looks good, but the display is completely blank, then you may just have to chalk it up as a bad display glass.  Unfortunately they can not be repaired.
 +
 
 +
=====All displays are missing the same digit=====
 +
 
 +
If all the displays have the same digit out, then the problem is most likely caused by a bad connector at the MPU. The MPU daisy-chains the digit enable signal to all the displays, and if the same digit is out on all, then it's either an amazing thing that they all have a problem w/ the same digit, or the digit enable signal is not present. Check the connectors on the MPU and all of the displays. If all seem well, then one-by-one, disconnect each display and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then there's a short or a bad connector problem on the board you just removed. Be sure to turn the power off between swap-outs, and wait 10 seconds for the high voltage filter capacitor to discharge before you remove any connectors.
 +
 
 +
=====The Same Number is Displayed Multiple Times During Display Test=====
 +
If one or all of the displays show the same number more than once during display test, (ie. instead of 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 being displayed, 0,0,2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8 or similar is displayed), the 4543 decoder chip on one of the displays is probably bad.  To test this, turn the power off, and disconnect all displays but one.  Continuing performing this procede until the suspect display is found.  DO NOT REMOVE THE CONNECTOR FROM THE DISPLAY WITH THE POWER ON.  This will result in damage to the MPU board, the display, or both.
 +
 
 +
=====One display is missing the same segments on all the digits=====
 +
 
 +
Each display has it's own decoder chip, which takes four inputs from the MPU and outputs seven signals to light the seven segments of a digit. If you're having problems with one or more segments on all the digits, then it's either the segment driver transistor or the decoder itself. I'm sure there's a way to test the transistor but I just go ahead and install a new one. If that doesn't fix it, then replacing the decoder will. I've not had a segment problem that was not fixed by replacing both segment drivers and decoders (other than MPU problems). Be sure to orient the transistor and/or IC in the proper position. You'll notice a flat side on the transistor and a small notch on one end of the decoder IC. Be sure they line up just like the one you removed, and that the wires of the transistor go into the same holes that the old one came out of. Also, if you're replacing the IC, use a socket, so it'll be easier to replace it next time. Here's a handy chart that shows which segment driver transistor drives which segment, and another diagram of how the segments are labeled. Just find the segment that's giving you trouble on the chart, then look up it's corresponding driver transistor. Then find this transistor on the circuit board and replace it.
 +
 
 +
[[File:B-decoder-chart.jpg|center]]
 +
 
 +
=====One display has a segment locked on all digits=====
 +
 
 +
The segment driver has failed.  When this issue is seen a lot of times the display will be blank except for the locked on segment.  Replace the segment driver (see chart above) and then retest the display.  If the display now works except for the segment drive you replaced is now turned off then replace the decoder chip.  When the segment driver locks on it usually blows out that segment on the decoder chip.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
=====One digit is out on one of the displays=====
 +
 
 +
If there is a single digit out, then it's probably the the level shifter and digit driver transistors for that digit. Just to be sure, check the connector on the display at pins J1-4 through J1-9. These are the connectors that supply the digit-enable signals from the MPU. The problem may be that the display driver is not getting the enable signal from the MPU. If it is, then just replace the two transistors and you should be back in business. Here's a handy chart that shows you which level shifter and digit driver are associated with each digit. The transistor labels should be printed on the circuit board, or look at the diagram below. Just look at this chart, find the digit that's blank, and then locate the two transistors listed for that digit. Find them on the circuit board and replace them.
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable sortable"
 +
|-
 +
!Digit
 +
!Level Shifter<br>(MPS-A42)
 +
!Digit Driver<br>(2N5401)
 +
|-
 +
|1's
 +
|Q1
 +
|Q7
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|10's
 +
|Q2
 +
|Q8
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|100's
 +
|Q3
 +
|Q9
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|1,000's
 +
|Q4
 +
|Q10
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|10,000's
 +
|Q5
 +
|Q11
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|100,000's
 +
|Q6
 +
|Q12
 +
 
 +
|-
 +
|1,000,000's
 +
|Q20
 +
|Q21
 +
 
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
=====One display is missing a digit or segment=====
 +
If one digit or segment is out on a display, but segment drivers, transistors, and the IC have all been replaced, be sure to check the resistors for damage and that they are giving the correct resistance.
 +
 
 +
If all else fails, try gently flexing or wiggling the glass a little bit to see if the segment or digit lights up. If that's the case, there may be an issue with one of the finger leads on the glass.
 +
 
 +
In the best case scenario, there is [[#Display(s) flicker|merely a cracked solder joint on a finger lead]] where it is soldered to the PCB.
 +
 
 +
Sometimes, the finger lead has been stressed and will snap on the top side of the PCB above the solder joint. A jumper wire might be able to address this.
 +
 
 +
In the worst case scenario, the finger lead has separated from the contact pad inside the glass. Unfortunately, there is not currently a recommended approach for performing a repair.
 +
 
 +
One suggestion included using a dremmel tool to drill out the glass to expose the finger contact, and then solder a jumper wire to it (note that solder might or might not stick to the contact, and instead, conductive glue or silver epoxy may need to be used, similar how a repair for a broken lead wire in a DMD display on newer games is performed).
 +
 
 +
On 6-digit glass, all the contacts are on the same side of the slot for the finger leads, and if the front side of the glass is drilled out, all the contacts accessible. On 7-digit glass, the contacts alternate which side of the slot inside the glass that they are adhered to, so only about half of these contacts are accessible from the front of the glass--some are adhered to that same front side that needs to be drilled out. So, it might not be possible to access all the contacts on a 7-digit glass.
 +
 
 +
[[file:bally-7-digit-glass-finger-contacts.jpg|left|thumb|250px|7-digit glass with alternating contact pads]]<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====One digit is very bright, and the rest are out=====
 +
 
 +
If you have one digit that's very bright and all the rest are out, simply replace the digit driver and level shifter transistors for that digit. Turns out sometimes a short transistor will draw so much current that there's not enough left to drive the remaining digits, and so they all go blank. Just use the chart above to determine which transistors to replace.
 +
 
 +
=====Display(s) flicker=====
 +
[[Image:CrackedHeadersAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Closeup of Cracked Header Pins on a Bally/Stern Display Module. These cracks caused rapid "flicker" of the display.]]
 +
[[Image:ColdSolderJoint.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Magnified view of a cold solder joint on a Bally/Stern Display Module.]]<br>
 +
This is almost always caused by fractured solder joints at the header pins. If you have already re-flowed the solder, double check them, then look for other broken solder joints and check all connectors for tight fits. Something is loose that's making them flicker. This "flicker" is about the fastest flicker you can imagine.
 +
 
 +
Another cause of flickering or strobing digits is a faulty decoder IC. If your digits are flickering or "wavy", try replacing the decoder IC.
 +
 
 +
[[File:YT.png]] Here is a link to a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCsisnUJWoY video] of a display board with a faulty 4543 decoder IC. Keep in mind that failed / failing decoder chips do emit symptoms other than what is seen in the video. Please see the other symptoms discussed above in this section.
 +
 
 +
Yet another cause of flicker is low HV or a shorted display that drags down the HV.
 +
 
 +
<u>'''Centaur Specific'''</u>
 +
 
 +
Centaur, being a multiball game, requires that all 5 balls be in the trough. This means that switch 2, "5th Ball Trough", must be seen by the MPU as being closed. Unless the MPU sees switch 2 as closed, the displays will flicker.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Conclusion=====
 +
 
 +
That covers the most common display problems. If the pinball machine manual is not available, click on any of the thumbnails below for a large picture of the component layout of the all three boards. The 100K Ohm resistors are the ones colored brown-black-yellow.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Sound problems===
 +
Regardless of the sound board, it is always best to first remove the existing solder from the header pins, and reflow new solder onto them.  Due to vibration over time, the header pin connections can end up with cracked solder joints, which is very common on the Bally sound boards.  The next order of business would to replace the volume pot and the secondary pot, if one is used on the board.  The original, factory pots used were not sealed, therefore, dirt and other contaminants can cause the pot to have dead spots or fail in general.  Once these two things are done initially, troubleshooting the sound board, if it's still not working will be a lot easier.<br>
 +
 
 +
If the board is still not working after the above recommended procedures, the next thing would be to check all of the voltages used on the board.  See the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Sound_Test_Point_Values Sound Test Point Value] section for the test point voltage values for each particular sound board.<br>
 +
 
 +
If all of the voltages check out, it's time to move onto the appropriate sound board troubleshooting section below.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
==== AS-2518-32 & AS-2518-50 Sound Board Troubleshooting====
 +
[[File:Bally -32 Cracked Headers.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Typical cracked solder joints on the header pins of a -32 board]]
 +
[[File:BallySoundFracturedHeaders.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Close-up of severely cracked solder joints on the header pins of a -32 board]]<br>
 +
The first course of action, before performing any troubleshooting to the board, is to inspect the header pin connections on the reverse side of the board. It is common to have cracked joints, where the header pins are soldered to the board. If cracked solder joints are apparent, heat and remove the old solder, and reflow new solder onto the connections. This will ensure that incoming voltages, ground and sound signals are solid on the board itself. Inspection of the connectors located in the female housing, which connects to the header pins, is equally a good idea. Replace any connectors that appear to be marginal. Molex Trifurcon crimp connectors are recommended as replacements.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Bally -32 Sound Min Components.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Minimal component replacement for -32 and -50 boards]]<br>
 +
There are several components which should be replaced on these boards to speed the troubleshooting process. Both the -32 and -50 sound boards use at least two 10Kohm pots. One pot controls overall volume. The other pot controls sound sustain (or tone duration). Both pots should be replaced to eliminate them as possible culprits and improve reliability. Likewise, a 1N4004 diode (CR3) is used on the board at the incoming +43vdc. Should this diode fail, it can cause the CPU to halt at 6 flashes at boot up.<br>
 +
 
 +
Capacitor kits for both the [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY-S32E-KIT -32] and [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY-S50E-KIT -50] boards are available from GPE.  Although it is not always necessary to replace the caps on these boards, it is recommended.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Should the 86L93 (U11) chip fail, the [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=74LS93&sprice=&stype=&scat= 74LS93] is a viable substitute.
 +
 
 +
There is a great [http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/rep_soundold.html repair website with step-by-step checkpoints, created by Oliver Okaegi]. You do need to have scope to see the signals.<br>
 +
 
 +
'''Voltage Test Points'''<br>
 +
The following DC voltages are required and may be measured on the sound board:
 +
 
 +
*TP1 = 5v,
 +
*TP3 = 12v,
 +
*TP4 = 43v.
 +
 
 +
If any voltages are missing, check the connectors. Specifically check the integrity of the header pins.
 +
 
 +
'''12v regulator section:'''<br>
 +
Check for 67 volts on the positive side of C17.  If missing replace CR3.  If positive side of C17 is the same as TP4(43v) replace C17 and CR3.
 +
 
 +
If 12v is too high, check Q1, R22, CR4, and C18.
 +
 
 +
'''Clock Generator:'''<br>
 +
U1(4049) can fail.  Check for about 2.5vdc where R3 and R5 meet. (On my functioning -50 board, I see .8vdc at this point)  If voltage incorrect replace U1 which is a 4049 hex inverter.  If still incorrect suspect U4 which is a 4526B programmable 4 bit counter.  The 4526 can be purchased from vendors such as [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MC14526BCPG/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsbn1GaJyslzVwwLLwbjUEVTxCaemDWNo%3d Mouser] or [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MC14526BCPG/MC14526BCPGOS-ND/1478908?WT.z_cid=ref_octopart_dkc_buynow&cur=USD Digi-Key].
 +
 
 +
'''Amplification / no sound issues:'''<br>
 +
First, make certain that the cabinet speaker is present, connected, and functioning.  If an audible hum is heard from the speaker, then the amp is working.  Next, check both pots.  It is best to replace them if they are the originals (typically blue or black thumb wheel pots).  Measuring across the two outer legs of the pot is the total resistance (10k).  Measuring from the middle leg gives a resistance with regards to how the pot is adjusted (a value from 0 ohms to 10 kohms depending on the pot's position).
 +
 
 +
To check the amplifier at U9 (LM741), look for about 2vdc at U9 pin 2. (On my functioning -50 board, I see 6vdc at U9 pin 2. Before replacement, 12vdc was seen when it wasn't functioning.) If voltage is missing, replace the amp. Note that the LM741 must be a specific part; part number LM741CN. Other LM741 parts may work, but often the volume is not amplified, resulting in only low volume output. A modification to the -32 sound board can be made to overcome this issue. The modification adds three components to the -32 sound board that Bally added to the -50 sound board during production. A discussion of this mod can be found [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/volume-problem-after-replacing-u9-on-bally-32-sound-board here].
 +
 
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
==== AS-2518-51 Sound Board Troubleshooting====
 +
[[File:As-2518-51.jpg| 180px | left |thumb | Bally AS-2518-51 Sound Board]]<br>
 +
Although the AS-2518-51 sound board uses a 6800 family of microprocessor, the lack of an on-board, boot status LED makes this board more difficult to troubleshoot than the Squawk and Talk sound board. On the plus side, this sound board utilizes some of the same ICs, which are commonly found on the game's MPU board. Fortunately, all of the larger ICs on this board are socketed.  Like the OEM sockets on the MPU board, the sockets used on this board are subject to failure. Replacement with new, high quality sockets is advised to eliminate this possible cause of failure and for long term reliability.<br>
 +
 
 +
The first course of action, before performing any troubleshooting to the board, is to inspect the header pin connections on the reverse side of the board.  It is common to have cracked solder joints, where the header pins are soldered to the board. If cracked solder joints are apparent, heat and remove the old solder, and reflow new solder onto the connections.  This will ensure that incoming voltages, ground and sound select signals are solid on the board itself. Inspection of the connectors located in the female housing, which connects to the header pins, is equally a good idea.  Replace any connectors that appear to be marginal. Molex Trifurcon crimp connectors are recommended as replacements.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Like all sound boards of this age, the capacitors are likely to have dried out and are no longer doing their job. Capacitor kits for this board can be acquired at [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY-S51E-KIT Great Plains Electronics]. <b>Installing a cap kit brings most dead boards back to life.</b><br>
 +
 
 +
If the board is producing no sound at all, start by checking the volume adjustment pot. When turning the pot, the volume of the hum should get quieter and louder. If this is not heard, the amp/pot may be bad.  If the hum volume changes, it is likely that the amp and pot are working. However, the 1K volume adjustment pot is 30+ years old, and was an "open" design. It is recommended that this pot be replaced with a quality sealed 1K ohm pot, whether or not the original pot tests good.<br>
 +
 
 +
Check the power at the board with a DMM. TP3 is ground. TP2 and TP1 should measure 5VDC and 12VDC respectively. These are nominal values. Minor variation from these values is acceptable.<br>
 +
 
 +
Next, it is time to check the large ICs on the board itself. First, swap the 6821 PIA at U2 on the sound board with either U10 or U11 on the MPU, and retest. Second, swap the 6810 RAM at U10 on the sound board with the 6810 at U7 on the MPU and retest.<br>
 +
 
 +
If the problem persists, swap in a known good sound ROM at U4 and retest. Pay particular attention to the legs of U4, if it is a factory masked ROM.  It is common for the legs of these masked ROMs to oxidize or tarnish, just like the masked ROMs used on the MPU board.  Hence, the legs can be fragile, and are easily broken. Likewise, tarnished legs on U4 could potentially be responsible for the lack of sound.  Evidence of oxidation is visible in the form of blackened chip legs (silver oxide). The oxidation can be removed in several ways. The most common methods are gently using a pencil eraser over the legs, or soaking the chip legs in Tarn-X, followed by rinsing the legs in clean water, and allowing to dry before re-installation. As mentioned previously, if the legs are oxidized, use extreme caution when removing the chip from its socket and removing the oxidation.<br>
 +
 
 +
If a known good 6808 (a 6802 can be used when jumper A is installed, and jumper B removed) is available, swap it for the processor at U3 and retest.<br>
 +
 
 +
If a known good AY-3-8910 is available, swap it for the sound IC at U1 and retest. The AY-3-8910 produces '''ALL''' of the sound from this board. If sounds continue to play after the completion of a game, this can be caused by a failed AY-3-8910.<br>
 +
 
 +
The sound interrupt signal and the sound select signal IC should also be checked. Connect a logic probe to the board; red lead at TP2 (+5VDC), black lead at TP3 (GND). With J1 connected to the game, place the probe on pin 40 of the PIA at U2.  The signal should start high. When the game's MPU completes it's 7th flash, it will command the sound board to make the boot sound.  At this point, pin 40 will go low for a split second, then return to high. If all goes well, consider the sound interrupt signal good.<br>
 +
 
 +
Test the function of the sound select inverter 4049 at U5. U5 is a simple hex inverter. In attract mode, with no sounds being produced, pin 3 should be low, pin 2 should be high. Pins 5/4, 7/6, and 14/15 should test the same as pins 3/2 respectively. Pins 9 and 11 may not be connected on the game. If so, there will be no signal on those pins. However, their "inverted" signals at pins 10 and 12 should be high. Pins 13 and 16 are not connected.<br>
 +
 
 +
The 6808 / 6802, AY-3-8910, and 6821 ICs require a reset signal which is created via a 1N4004, 1Mohm resistor, and NAND gates at U6 (4011). Test the 1N4004 diode via normal diode test. U6 can be tested with a logic probe similarly to U5. With a logic probe on pin 40 of the 6808 processor, at power on the signal will remain low for a split second and then go high.<br>
 +
 
 +
The external clock signal can be probed at pin 37 of the 6808. It should pulse steadily. If not, suspect the crystal oscillator.
 +
 
 +
Although U7 is specified as a 555 timer IC on the schematics, it is not listed on the BOM, and was not installed on this board. Nor were any of the several discrete components to the right of the U7 solder pads (i.e. C10, C11, R11, R12).
 +
 
 +
<b>Loud Hum</b><br>
 +
While it might seem OK to connect analog and digital ground for testing on the bench, this causes the board to produce a loud hum. Pin 15 (analog ground) must be grounded separately from pins 6 and 14 (digital ground).
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Sounds Plus Sound Board Troubleshooting====
 +
This is a stub.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
====Vocalizer Speech Board Troubleshooting====
 +
There is a [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-vocalizer-eprom-repair-vids-guide repair guide on pinside] for addressing ROM issues and replacing the original ROMs with EPROMS.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Squawk & Talk Sound Board Troubleshooting====
 +
===== Sound Test Reference =====
 +
 
 +
The following video links demonstrate properly operating Squawk & Talk sound boards.
 +
 
 +
[[image:YT.png]] Place Holder.
 +
 
 +
=====Basic Information=====
 +
[[File:SquawkAndTalkJumperAndTestPointLocations.jpg|200px|left|thumb|Bally Squawk & Talk Jumper Locations. Note that the -61B revision of the board contains a jumper FF located within the stack of resistors below the AD558. Neither the -61 or the -61a revision has this jumper.]]<br>
 +
 
 +
The image at left indicates jumper and test point locations.
 +
Jumper settings for various game and ROM combinations can be found [[Bally/Stern#Squawk_.26_Talk_Jumper_Settings | here]].
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
<b>Test Point Number and Functions</b>
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;TP&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
!&nbsp;Function&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>1</center> || &nbsp;Ground&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>2</center> || &nbsp;+5VDC&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>3</center> || &nbsp;+11.5VDC&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>4</center> || &nbsp;-5VDC&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>5</center> || &nbsp;Speech Volume Control Voltage&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>6</center> || &nbsp;Sound Volume Control Voltage&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>7</center> || &nbsp;AY-3-8912 Output&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>8</center> || &nbsp;E (external clock provided by the 6808/6802)&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>9</center> || &nbsp;TMS5200 Output&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>10</center> || &nbsp;VMA (valid memory address)&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>11</center> || &nbsp;TMS5200 clock (not used. Would clock the TMS6100)&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| <center>12</center> || &nbsp;Reset&nbsp;
 +
|}
 +
Source: Bally AS-2518-61 Squawk and Talk Schematics.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
<b>Integrated Circuits used by the Squawk & Talk sound board.</b>
 +
 
 +
*U1 - Motorola 6802 or 6808 8-bit microprocessor
 +
*U2 - ROM
 +
*U3 - ROM
 +
*U4 - ROM
 +
*U5 - ROM
 +
*U6 - 6810 RAM (only used if a 6808 microprocessor is used. If a 6802 is used, the socket is empty)
 +
*U7 - 6821 PIA for controlling the speech IC - TMS5200 VSP and TMS6100 VSM phrase ROM
 +
*U8 - TMS 5200 VSP Speech IC (does not occupy address space)
 +
*U9 - TMS6100 VSM 16k byte Phrase ROM containing speech data (never populated). Again, it does not occupy address space
 +
*U10- AD558 DAC for converting digital wave data stored in the ROMs to audio
 +
*U11- 6821 PIA for controlling the AY-3-8912 sound IC and the test LED
 +
*U12- General Instruments AY-3-8912 PSG (Programmable Sound Generator) IC, which again, does not occupy address space
 +
 
 +
=====The Very Easy Simple Fix aka the General Illumination is Out=====
 +
If for some reason, the general illumination is not lit on the playfield or backbox of the game, suspect a blown 20A fast blow F5 fuse on the power module or possibly fuse clips in poor condition.  One leg of the general illumination is fed to the Squawk & Talk, and it becomes the -5VDC, which is one of the voltages needed to power the TMS5200 speech chip.  Without the general illumination, the Squawk & Talk board will not successfully boot!
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====General Troubleshooting=====
 +
Troubleshooting the Bally Squawk & Talk board is much simpler than it might first seem. First, the board provides "blink codes" at power up, similar to the way that Bally MPUs do. These codes help isolate the failed component.
 +
 
 +
[[File:TMS5200LegTarnish.jpg|200px|right|thumb|The legs of the TMS5200 Speech Processor chip almost always tarnish over time, perhaps due to the legs and the socket being constructed from dissimilar metals. Replacing the socket and removing the tarnish is always advisable. Be cautious as the legs sometimes become fragile.]]
 +
The Squawk & Talk sound board is itself a single board computer. At it's heart is the 6808 processor with external RAM, or the 6802 processor with integrated RAM. Two 6821 PIAs are used to interface the processor to peripheral devices. The 6821 at U11 provides an interface to the AY-3-8912 (if used) or the U16, a 4049 inverter where sound selects are sent from the MPU. The 6821 at U7 provides the interface to the TMS5200 Speech Processor.
 +
 
 +
Up to 4 ROMs can populate the board with either 2716, 2532, or 2732 ROMs.
 +
 
 +
An AD558 DAC (digital to analog converter) is used to make traditional pinball beeps, squeeks, and tones.
 +
 
 +
A TMS5200 Speech Processor is used to convert digitally stored (and compressed) sound information in the ROMs to analog "speech" (which can also be sounds).
 +
 
 +
An AY-3-8912 Sound Generator is sometimes populated at U12 to produce simple tone sounds.
 +
 
 +
Two LM3900 operational amplifiers (op amps) amplify the analog signals from both the speech and the sound lanes before they are summed and provided to the main amplifier.
 +
 
 +
At TDA2002 amplifier is used at the final stage of amplification. A TDA2003 may be used to replace this amp.
 +
 
 +
Variable 1KOhm pots at R69 and R70 control speech and sound volumes independently (respectively).
 +
 
 +
Provisions are available for controlling volume via external pots by connecting to J2, pins 5 and 6.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:SandTRegulator.jpg|200px|left|thumb|The 5V regulator sometimes develops cold solder joints. Without 5VDC, the diagnostic LED won't blink at all.]]
 +
<br><b>Techniques</b><br>
 +
Power the board on the bench.<br>
 +
Recognize blink codes.<br>
 +
Check voltage regulation circuits.<br>
 +
Use the "self-test" button.<br>
 +
Isolate the problem to the "digital" section or the "analog" section.<br>
 +
Use a logic probe to "listen" at points in the analog section.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:PoweringSquawkAndTalkOnTheBenchAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Powering the Bally Squawk & Talk Sound Board on the Bench.]]<br>
 +
<b>Powering the board on the bench</b><br>
 +
To power the board on the bench, use an old computer power supply that is capable of providing -5VDC and +12VDC.
 +
*Connect +12VDC to J1 pin 10. The board will use the +12VDC and will also regulate it down to +5VDC
 +
*Connect -5VDC to TP4
 +
*Connect the power supply ground to TP1
 +
Double check all of your connections before applying power.<br>
 +
 
 +
If the board is a -61b revision, as used in Centaur for instance, install a temporary jumper at location "FF". This allows operation without attaching the "Say it again" board.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
<b>Blink Codes</b><br>
 +
An overview of "Blink Codes" follows.<br>
 +
For a more in depth discussion of these blink codes, see the excellent information developed by Clive Jones, [http://webpages.charter.net/coinopcauldron/squalkart.html here].<br>
 +
 
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Blink&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 +
!&nbsp;Meaning&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;First "flicker"&nbsp; || &nbsp;The processor has found the program code in ROM, and has begun to configure the board.&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;First Blink&nbsp; || &nbsp;The 128 bytes of system RAM (either within the 6802, or external in the 6810 if configured with a 6808) have tested good.&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Second Blink&nbsp; || &nbsp;The 6821 PIA at U7 (which controls speech) has passed test.&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Third Blink&nbsp; || &nbsp;The 6821 PIA at U11 (which interfaces with the AY-3-8912 and fields sound codes from the MPU) has passed test.&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Fourth Blink&nbsp; || &nbsp;Communication with the AY-3-8912 has passed. Note that the PIA at U11 must be communicating correctly with the AY-3-8912 for this test to pass. If there is no fourth blink, first swap a known good 6821 into U11.&nbsp;
 +
|-
 +
| &nbsp;Fifth Blink&nbsp; || &nbsp;The TMS5200 Speech Chip has passed testing.&nbsp;
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
Pressing the red diagnostic button on the Squawk and Talk board, should cause the board to play various speech calls (games like Medusa seem to go on forever, Spectrum plays only a short speech call) followed by a sound call. The speech is generated by the TMS5200. The lone sound call at the end of this test is generated by either the AY-3-8912 (as in EBD, for instance) or the AD558 digital-to-analog converter. At the conclusion of playing these various speech calls and sound call, the board then reboots itself, and the same blink codes should be seen.
 +
 
 +
<b>Basic maintenance actions</b><br>
 +
There are 5 actions you can take to ease the process of debugging the S&T board (priority order):
 +
#Ensure the correct jumpers are installed, matching the game and sound ROM type
 +
#Replace ALL electrolytic capacitors on the board
 +
#Replace both 1KOhm pots (one for speech, one for sound)
 +
#Replace IC sockets (empty sockets don't need to be replaced obviously, ScanBe sockets must go, RU sockets can remain)
 +
#Replace .156 male headers at J1 and J2 (at a minimum, reflow the solder joints)
 +
 
 +
Completing each of the above items usually results in a working Squawk & Talk board.
 +
 
 +
<b>Capacitor list and recommended modern replacements</b><br>
 +
C1 - Axial Electrolytic 47uF, 25 Volt<br>
 +
C14 - Axial Electrolytic 4700uF, 25 Volt<br>
 +
C15 - Axial Electrolytic 10uF, 50 Volt<br>
 +
C19, C24, C25, C28, C31, C34 and C42 (7 capacitors) - Axial Electrolytic 1uF, 50 Volt<br>
 +
C27 - Axial Electrolytic 1000uF, 25 Volt<br>
 +
C29 - Axial Electrolytic 470uF, 16 Volt<br>
 +
C36 and C43 (2 capacitors) - Axial Electrolytic 2.2uF, 50 Volt<br>
 +
C37 and C38 (2 capacitors) - Axial Electrolytic 330uF, 50 Volt<br>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Locked on LED on Squawk & Talk Sound Board (Minimizing Chips Needed to Boot)=====
 +
As mentioned above, there are LED blink codes used when passing specific chip tests during the boot up process.  However, the Squawk & Talk sound board is similar to the Bally -17 / -35 MPUs, and it too can end up with the dreaded locked on LED.  The end result is the board not proceeding through the boot process.  On the plus side, battery damage is far less of an issue for the S&T board versus the MPU board.<br>
 +
 
 +
For starters, it would be best to reduce the amount of chips installed on the S&T board to try to get it to boot.  At a minimum, only the following. factory socketed chips are needed to achieve some "signs of life" out of the board.  Only having these chips installed will not allow the board to complete its boot up process.  However, chips can be installed in a systematic method to get the board to successfully boot.<br>
 +
 
 +
'''Flicker'''<br>
 +
To achieve a flicker from the diagnostic LED on the board, the U1 CPU (either a 6808 or 6802), the U11 PIA (this 6820 or 6821 activates the LED), and the U5 ROM (boot up instructions are located on U5).  Make certain that the [[Bally/Stern#Squawk_.26_Talk_Jumper_Settings | jumper settings]] are correct for U1 and U5. Keep in mind that a known working 6820 / 6821 can be acquired from a working Bally MPU board.  Likewise, the 6820 / 6821 from the S&T board can be installed in a known working MPU board to test.<br>
 +
 
 +
If the board still has a locked on LED, the following things should be investigated:<br>
 +
*Make sure that the reset on the CPU chip starts low briefly and then goes high.  With a logic probe, check pin 40 of U1.  If the reset does not go high, suspect C1 (47uF 25v), CR1 (1N4148), R1 (27K 1/4w), U15 (74LS14), or possibly U17 (74LS155).
 +
*Next, check for an active clock signal.  With a logic probe, check pins 38 and 39 of U1.  Both legs of the CPU should be pulsing (some logic probes may not pulse, the clock voltage is rather low).  These legs go directly to the clock crystal (Y1 - 3.58 mHz).  If these signals are not pulsing, suspect the crystal or its associated capacitors, C3 and C4 (both are 27pF caps).  It is fairly common for the crystals to fail on these boards.
 +
*Make sure that the transistor (Q1 - 2N3904 or 2N4401) which drives the LED is functioning.
 +
*Again, check that the correct jumpers are installed.  If the incorrect jumpers are installed for U1 / U6 (K or L) or U5 (Y, Z, AA, BB), the LED will remain solidly lit.
 +
*Inspect the chip sockets.  Although the chip sockets used on the S&T are of decent quality, they have aged and can fail.  If a chip can be removed from its socket by merely pulling it out with one's fingers, the socket is bad and needs replaced.
 +
*Lastly, make certain that U1, U5, and U11 are good.<br>
 +
 
 +
'''1st Flash'''<br>
 +
Once a flicker is achieved, the road to recovery is much smoother.  Install the U6 RAM (6810), if using a 6808 CPU at U1.  A good 6810 can be pulled from a working MPU board.  Likewise, the 6810 on the S&T board can be tested in a known working MPU board.  If using a 6802, the 6810 is not needed.  Also, the 1st flash will be automatic with just the 6802 installed, as long as jumper K is installed.  Having U6 installed with a 6802 CPU chip installed does not hurt anything, and either the L or K jumper can be installed, as long as the 6810 is good.<br>
 +
 
 +
'''2nd Flash'''<br>
 +
Install the U7 PIA (6820 / 6821).  Again, a good PIA can be acquired from a known working MPU board.<br>
 +
 
 +
'''3rd Flash'''<br>
 +
Since the U11 PIA (6820 / 6821) is already installed, the 3rd flash should appear, if this chip is good.<br>
 +
 
 +
'''4th Flash'''<br>
 +
Install the U12 sound generator chip (AY-3-8912), if it is used.  If the U12 chip is not used, the 5 EE jumpers must be installed.
 +
 
 +
'''5th Flash'''<br>
 +
Install the U8 speech generator chip (TMS5200).  It is very common for the speech chips to have tarnished legs.  To remove the tarnish, a pencil eraser can be used, if used very gently and cautiously.  Tarn-X is a much better product to remove the tarnish.<br>
 +
 
 +
'''Closing Notes'''<br>
 +
Once the board boots, a single sound is typically heard.  A single sound is typically heard when the test button is pressed too.  At this point, the remaining sound ROM(s) can be installed.  Again, make certain the ROMs have the appropriate jumpers installed.  If the incorrect jumpers are installed, the LED will remain solidly lit.<br>
 +
 
 +
The U10 DAC (AD558) does not need to be installed at any point during the above process to get the board to successfully boot.  However, U10 must be installed to generate all of the sounds associated with any particular game.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Speech is Heard but No Sounds=====
 +
If the board is booting, but only speech can be heard, and the above "Basic maintenance actions" were not performed, there are several things which can make this occur.  The first would be to make certain the sound potentiometer is functioning.  Dead spots and / or a completely failed pot can cause the sounds not to be heard.  Secondly, replace the electrolytic capacitors.  This should be done in most cases anyhow.  If after replacing the capacitors did not cause the board to produce sounds, there are a couple of other things to look at.<br>
 +
 
 +
A starting point would be to make certain that the wiring harness is intact between the MPU and S&T boards.  To test this, place an alligator clip on each of the resistors located on the bottom left of the board.  The sound signals come into these resistors first.  Next, take the alligator test lead, and attach it to one side of a DMM.  Put the DMM in contintuity mode.  Place the other lead of the DMM on the resistor leg of R97-R100 and R106 located on the MPU board.  Repeat the steps for each sound signal.  Performing a continuity test in this manner (from board to board) narrows down bad connectors and / or header pins.
 +
 
 +
If the harness is all right, make certain the U16 (4049) inverter on the S&T has not failed.<br>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Pitch of Speech is too high/low=====
 +
[[File:SAndTR9.jpg|200px|left|thumb|R9, shown in-situ, on the Bally Squawk and Talk board. Note that this 120K resistor is <b>not</b> the OEM resistor and has been substituted.]]
 +
The "pitch" of Squawk and Talk speech can be adjusted by varying the value of resistor R9, pictured in-situ at left. Typically, in almost every instance, the factory value of the resistor is 130K 1/4W. However, Flash Gordon uses a 240K resistor.
 +
 
 +
[[File:YT.png]] If changing out the typical 130K resistor, using a higher resistance (140K) resistor will lower the pitch; a lower resistance resistor (100K) will increase the pitch. Example videos of both higher and lower pitch speech using these resistor values can be found here ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFeL47DoSJQ high], [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nef-wOmuduk low])
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Speech is Garbled, Clipped, or Unintelligible=====
 +
The TMS5200 is practically unobtainable as of July, 2020. At times, a TMS5220 will be substituted to replace a failed TMS5200. The TMS5220 will create voice, but the audio will be garbled and somewhat unintelligible.
 +
 
 +
[[File:YT.png]] A video comparing "Flash Gordon" voice/sound diagnostics with a TMS5200 and a TMS5220 can be found [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mml7fH6QYFw here].
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Hum In Voice Circuit=====
 +
If the "hum" present during voice calls is noticeably louder than the "hum" present during sound calls, this can be caused by excessive AC "noise" in the -5VDC generation circuit.
 +
 
 +
Isolating the hum to the voice or sound circuit is as simple as adjusting the trim pots clockwise to reduce the volume of that channel. The hum can be caused by failed C37 or C38 (both 330uf/50V axial caps). However, if the board has been recapped, which is always advisable for this board, and the hum is still present, suspect the 7905 negative 5VDC regulator.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Say It Again Reverb Board Troubleshooting====
 +
This is a stub.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
====Cheap Squeak Sound Board Troubleshooting====
 +
 
 +
The schematic for this board can be found here: [[File:BallyCheapSqueakSchematics.pdf]]
 +
 
 +
[[File:Bally Cheap Squeak.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board A080-91603-XXXX or Midway P/N M-051-00114-XXXX]]
 +
 
 +
At power up, the Cheap Squeak's LED will flicker briefly, then flash, flash again, then turn on and stay on. Once the LED stays on, it seems to turn itself off for certain sounds, and then turn back on. Likewise, it appears to idle with the LED on, when no sounds are playing.
 +
 
 +
The Cheap Squeak uses a single 1Kohm volume pot. If repairing this board, replace the pot with a high quality sealed 1K pot.
 +
 
 +
'''Test Points'''
 +
*TP1 should measure about 11VDC.
 +
*TP2 is 5VDC.
 +
*TP3 is ground.
 +
*TP4 is the clock signal, provided externally by the 6803 for the purpose of synchronizing address and data read cycles.
 +
*TP5 is the reset signal, which is also present on pin 6 of the 6803.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
'''Bench Testing'''
 +
# To power the board on the bench, provide 12VDC to J1, pin 10.
 +
# Provide ground from the power supply to J1 pins 14 and 15.
 +
# Connect a small speaker to the speaker output pins at J2 (2 pins).
 +
# The board generates it's own 5VDC via a 7805 voltage regulator at U9. Therefore, an external 5VDC source does not need to be connected.
 +
 
 +
'''Special Note'''<br>
 +
The +5v can be connected directly to TP2, or +12V can be connected to TP1 to power the board.  However, both do not need to be connected.  If powering the board in this manner, the power amp will not be powered.  +12v needs to be connected to the bottom of the L1 inductor, and ground connected either to the left leg of the L3 inductor or the left leg of the large capacitor at the bottom of the board (C24).
 +
 
 +
When powered on, the reset circuitry on the board holds pin 6 of the 6803 (~RESET) low for a split second, then allows it to go high.
 +
 
 +
Pressing SW1 should cause the board to generate a test sound, then the board reboots itself. Note that different sound ROMs may act differently. Generating a tone and rebooting is characteristic of the "X's and O's" sound ROM.
 +
 
 +
The test sound can be heard using an inexpensive logic probe like the [http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z9HAP4/ Elenco LP-560] at some points in the analog sound path. Attach the logic probe to +5VDC (TP2) and Ground (TP3) on the board. Probe pin 4 of the ZN429 DAC then press SW1. Some sort of tone should sound briefly, then the board will reboot. The tone can also be heard at pins 1 and 4 of the TDA2002 amp. Unfortunately, between the amp and R25, a logic probe isn't adequate for cheaply hearing the tone. However, if there is a tone at pin 4 of the ZN429, but no tone at pin 1 of the amp, then there is a good chance that the LM3900 has failed.
 +
 
 +
[[File:CheapSqueakBlownTantalum.jpg|200px|left|thumb|An example of a blown tantalum capacitor on a Cheap Squeak board (blue caps, top blown)]]
 +
 
 +
The Cheap Squeak board likes to blow the tantalum caps as shown in the picture on the left. While it's unclear why they tend to blow, simply replacing the blown cap usually returns the board to proper function. A gentle reminder, tantalum caps ARE polarized and must be installed in the correct direction, or they will burst into flames and/or explode, which could lead to injury. The marking for C22 isn't clear on the Cheap Squeak board. Use a multimeter to determine which through-hole is ground, and install accordingly. Most tantalum caps are marked on the +/positive side lead.<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
This [http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_cheap.html link] contains some additional info regarding the Cheap Squeak sound board.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Cheap Squeak Schematic Errors=====
 +
Note that the Cheap Squeak schematics for Black Pyramid have some incorrect info regarding the connections for U3 pin 2 to ground and U3 pin 20 to U4 pin 10.
 +
 
 +
[[File:BLY_Cheap_Squeak_Schems_Before.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board Schematics w/ incorrect info]]
 +
[[File:BLY_Cheap_Squeak_Schems_After.JPG|200px|right|thumb|Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board Schematics adjusted to the board layout]]
 +
 
 +
All Cheap Squeak schematics have the following error.  Diodes D7 and D8 are connected opposite of what the schematics state.  Also, test point (TP1) is not located where the schematics show that it is.  Please see the pic to the left (original schematics), and the pic to the right (corrected areas are circled).
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====SB-100 Sound Board====
 +
Technical write up regarding the SB-100 sound board is located [http://www.techdose.com/projects/Stern-Pinball-SB100-Sound-Board/346/page1.html here].<br>
 +
 
 +
Just some general tech notes.  Please be advised of the following per the Stern SB-100 sound board schematics.  A single 220mfd 50v capacitor can be installed at either position C47 and C48.  Likewise, two 100mfd 50v capacitors at these two positions are acceptable substitutes.  Even though the circuit board stencils are marked with a "+" on one of the cap leg positions, the capacitor(s) at these positions must bi-polar / non-polarized.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Sound Board Does not Make Sound at all=====
 +
Much like the www.techdose.com website recommends, check for cold solder joints on all of the header connections.  Since all of the generations of these boards are all single-sided, they are susceptible to cold / cracked solder joints.  Also, make certain that the ribbon cables or harnesses are installed correctly.  Pin 1 J5 of the MPU board should connect to pin 1 J1 on the sound board.  If sound is still not present, check the voltage test points on the board.  Finally, make certain that the amp is powered (a slight hum will be heard), the speaker is good, and the volume potentiometer is turned up and / or good too.
 +
 
 +
=====Missing Sounds on the Fully Populated SB-100 Sound Board=====
 +
During solenoid test, the first 6 solenoids are allocated for sound board sounds.  If sounds are only heard during the first 4 solenoids during test, it may not be that they are actually missing.  Make certain that the MPU dipswitch 23 is set to on, otherwise only the first 4 sounds will be triggered during solenoid test.  Hearing only 4 sounds is normal operation, if the sound board is set for chime sounds only. <br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Missing Sounds on the Less Populated SB-100 Sound Board=====
 +
The sounds for the games using the less populated boards are not the first 6 solenoids, like the fully populated sound boards.  Instead, the sounds are the last things triggered during solenoid test.  And, if the game's dipswitch is set for chimes (dipswitch 23 on some of the later games), no sounds will be heard, when the sound board's sounds should be triggered. <br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Second Generation SB-100 Sound Board Does not Allow MPU to Boot (Typically After a Successful 1st Boot)=====
 +
[[File:Stern SB11 SB-100 Reset.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Stern Service Bulletin 11]]
 +
[[File:Stern SB-100 Less Pop Reset Front.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Stern SB-100 Less Populated (second generation) Sound Board.  Note the 47Kohm resistor installed in place of a standard jumper, and the tantalum cap installed from one leg of the unpopulated C52 to the 47Kohm resistor.  This is a common factory fix found on most second generation SB-100 sound boards.]]<br>
 +
At some point, Stern released a service bulletin, regarding a fix to keep from erroneous info showing up in bookkeeping, due to "multiple toggling of the power switch of the game".  With this bulletin, it recommends that a 47Kohm resistor and 3.3uF 6v tantalum capacitor be installed on the /RESET line of the 74107 chip.  Likewise, pin 25 at J1 should be removed from the SB-100, or removal of the line that comes from the MPU, as this is the data line that carries the /RESET line. <br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Stern SB-100 Less Pop Reset Line 74107 Back.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Factory modification on second generation board where /RESET line and +5V is tied together presuming that J1 pin 25 is removed.]]
 +
[[File:Stern SB-100 Early Cut Reset.jpg|thumb|300px|right|/RESET line cut on a second generation sound board]]<br>
 +
What is not stated in the service bulletin is that if pin 25 of J1 or the cable is not removed, the /RESET line and the +5V on the SB-100 will be tied together. The end result is a sound board that seems fine upon the very first boot of a "cold" game.  If the game has been on at all, subsequent attempts of turning the game on and off results in an MPU board that is locked up.  The signs of it locked up are that the diagnostic LED on the MPU board will never come on or is on immediately and stays locked on.  The sound board also may belch out a very obnoxious loud BLURT, akin to a siren which does not descend in sound, that continues unless the game is turned off. 
 +
 
 +
To resolve the problem without question, it is best just to cut the /RESET line right before it is tied to the +5V line.
 +
 
 +
Although this issue has not been observed on the first generation SB-100, which is fully populated, it can occur if the suggested service bulletin modification is performed.
 +
 
 +
One thing to note is that this problem doesn't appear to occur when using an Alltek Ultimate MPU board.  Also, the problem can be overcome when using a Two Bits Fix-It board by pressing the reset button (performing a hard reset).
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Removing the Sound Blurt from the SB-100 Upon MPU Boot Up=====
 +
[[File:Stern SB-100 MCP120-460DI Reset Gen.jpg|thumb|300px|left|An MCP120-460DI reset generator and 4.7K pull up resistor added to the 2nd generation sound board]]<br>
 +
Don't like the initial "PEW" sound that the SB-100 board blurts out when the MPU first turns on, add a reset generator to the board.  A reset generator can be added to the sound board, which ties the /RESET line of the reset generator to pin 10 of U6 (the CLR signal for the 74107).  In this example, an MCP120-460DI reset generator was used along with an external 4.7Kohm pullup resistor.  Note that a small hole must be drilled into the board to pick up the needed +5V for the center leg of the reset generator.  An MCP130-460DI can be used just as easily, and an external pullup resistor will not be needed.  The board shown here is a 2nd generation board.  A 1st generation board should be the same procedure.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Mapping the Sound Signals on the SB-100=====
 +
[[File:Stern SB-100 Sound Signals Input.jpg|thumb|300px|left|SB-100 sound signals noted on the input side of the board.]]
 +
[[File:Stern SB-100 Sound Signals Output.jpg|thumb|300px|right|SB-100 sound signals noted on the output side of the board.]]<br>
 +
These two pics show the specific six different sound paths of the SB-100.  If a specific sound is missing from the board, hopefully these will help in locating the failure point a little easier.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:SB-100Annotated.jpg|thumb|500px|left|SB-100 sound signals annotated on a hi-resolution image. <i>Cleaned up image provided by PinSider La4s. Annotation by Jim Palson.</i>]]<br>
 +
The image at left consolidates the two images above.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Bench Testing the SB-100=====
 +
Connect the SB-100 board with the two ribbons normally used to connect the board to the MPU.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Additionally, connect the following as shown below...
 +
* J2/6 - 12VDC
 +
* J2/3 - Ground
 +
* J3/8-9 - Speaker
 +
* An 8Kohm resistor across J3 pins 1 and 3. 8Kohm provides a reasonable volume for debugging.
 +
[[File:SB-100BenchTestConnections.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Bench connections for the Stern SB-100 sound board]]
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=====Adjusting the Sound Quality on a Stern SB-100 board=====
 +
Earlier versions of the Stern SB-100 Sound board can have an unpleasant high pitched sound for all the different sounds. STERN advises the following changes to lower the frequency of the tones, which sound much better to my ears.
 +
 
 +
* Replace all 3 of the 5k potentiometers at R2,R6, & R13 with 25k ohm pots. Suggested part # is 15mm Piher PT15LH06-253A2020
 +
* Replace the 2.2k ohm resistor at R12 with an 8.2k ohm 1/4 watt resistor
 +
* Upon completion of component replacement, adjust the trim pots according to the instructions below
 +
 
 +
[[File:Stern SB-100 Pots TPs.JPG|300px|thumb|left|The 3rd generation SB-100 with pots and complimentary test points notated]]<br>
 +
Adjust the frequencies by putting the BLACK lead on ground (TP4) on the sound board and the RED lead of the multimeter set to the frequency setting (Hz) on the appropriate test point (see below and the pic to the left).  Then, turn the pots one way or the other in small increments to the following specs.<br>
 +
 
 +
TP2 Adjust R6    138 Hz +/- 3Hz<br>
 +
TP3 Adjust R2    104 Hz +/- 3 Hz<br>
 +
TP5    Adjust R13    172 Hz +/- 3 Hz<br>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====SB-300 Sound Board====
 +
Technical write up regarding the SB-300 sound board is located [http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/rep_soundsb300.html here].
 +
 
 +
If some of the sounds are missing or incorrect when using a SB-300 sound board with an Alltek MPU board (e.g. especially noticable for the spinner sounds on a Meteor), try clearing memory on the MPU board to see if that fixes the issue. 
 +
 
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
=====Stern SB-300 Sound Board Modification for VSU-100 Usage=====
 +
Games with a VSU-100 speech card require a modified SB-300 to utilize the speech.  First, see if your SB-300 already has a trace for this connection by checking continuity between pin 5 of the rightmost connector at the bottom and the top of capacitor C14.  If you read continuity, you do not need to do this mod.<br>
 +
 
 +
 
 +
<center>
 +
<gallery widths=200px heights=200px perrow=3 caption="Stern SB-300 Added Jumper Modification for Speech">
 +
File:sb300sig3.jpg|<center><b>First solder point for jumper<br>(pin 5 of rightmost connector)</b></center>
 +
File:sb300sig2.jpg|<center><b>Second solder point for jumper<br>(top of capacitor C14)</b></center>
 +
File:sb300sign1.jpg|<center><b>Overall picture of jumper</b></center>
 +
</gallery>
 +
</center>
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====VSU-100 Speech Board====
 +
Unlike most all other combination sound speech boards made by Bally, Williams, and Gottlieb, Stern did not use a potentiometer for mixing the sounds and speech volume.<br>
 +
 
 +
If the speech is nonexistent, first make certain that the SB-300 sound board has the appropriate jumper added.  The jumper goes between the right .156 connector pin 5 and the top of capacitor C14.  Later revision SB-300 boards have a trace on the board for this so measure for continuity between those 2 points; if it is there, no need to add the additional jumper.  Next, make certain that the EPROMs installed are valid.  Very common for bad 2716's to cause the board to not work.  You can replace both 2716's on games that use both U9 and U10 with a single 2532 installed into U9.  Create this eprom file by using the DOS copy command:  copy /b u9.716 + u10.716 u9comb.532.  For Flight 2000, which only uses U9, just copy /b u9.716 + u9.716 u9f2k.532, or just burn the image into the lower half of a 2532.  No jumper changes are needed to do this conversion, but you must make sure you only have ONE eprom installed in to u9 - you cannot install or leave an eprom into u10 due to the way the VSU-100 handles addressing.<br>
 +
 
 +
If the speech is much lower than the sound, suspect capacitor C6 first.<br>
 +
 
 +
Although the S14001A speech chip is somewhat expensive, it is still available from some online outlets.  Do not assume that this chip is bad just because the speech is not working - it is more common for support components or missing voltages to cause speech board issues.
 +
 
 +
There is a short jumper handling the pass-through signals to the lamp board which uses IDC connectors, these can be problematic and cause lamp issues.  A cable can be built with discrete wires and .100 connectors to replace this often overlooked issue. 
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Flipper problems===
 +
[[File:SeaWitchMeteorFlipperResistor.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Upper Flipper Mech with 1ohm sand resistor in series. <i>Image courtesy of David Rowland.</i>]]<br>
 +
Some games, like Meteor and SeaWitch, make use of a 1ohm resistor, in series with the flipper coil "power winding", to reduce flipper power strength, while using a "standard" coil. This prevents drop targets from being damaged and allowed Stern to use the same coil across their game production.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Rebuilding Flippers====
 +
Nothing makes more of a difference on a game than having taut, crisp, flippers.  Even if every other mechanical component on a game is rebuilt, if the flippers are sluggish and weak, players walk away with a sour taste of the games' experience.  At a minimum, flippers should be taken apart, inspected for wear, have their coil sleeve replaced with new, and reassembled while dressing any worn plungers/stops with a file.  Additionally, the end of stroke switch should be filed and adjusted, as well as the cabinet switches that actuate the flippers.
 +
 
 +
It is best to replace the plungers and links, the coil stop, and the end of stroke switch(es) with brand new components.  Quality varies in replacement parts for this era game, with some components being completely unavailable in suitable replacements.  One example is the proper Stern coil stop for flippers - while there is a modern replacement, it is very expensive and does not seem to work as well as the original copper colored stops.  You can swap the copper stops from stern pop bumpers which show very little wear into the flipper positions.  The worn stop from the flipper will usually work on the pop bumper fine as the pulse rarely pulls the pop plunger down to the stop (hence why they are perfect to swap).
 +
 
 +
Another part that seems to be available are replacement flipper bats for Stern games - while they will fit and work, they are slightly fatter in profile at the inlane end and will cause flipper hop.
 +
 
 +
Recently a supplier (pinballlife.com) has started remanufacturing classic Stern style flipper parts in the generation 2 style as well as Bally flipper parts and full flipper assmblies.  The flipper plates are a welcome addition to the repair arsenal, as the holes are usually stripped out from hacky repairs over the years.
 +
 
 +
When reassembling the flipper, check the bushing for cracks or wear - the bushing's job is to hold the flipper bat square to the playfield at a high enough height to prevent the flipper from dragging across the playfield surface, causing gouging and wear.  Be sure the flipper has a slight up-down leeway built in at both rest and at extension.  The inlane guide should be a smooth transition from guide to flipper; while you can't adjust the flipper to tweak this, you can and should adjust the lane guide.
 +
 
 +
====Converting Bally or Stern Flipper Assys. to WMS WPC Style Flipper Assys.====
 +
[[File:Stern Flipper Wiring Diagram.png|200px|thumb|left|Standard Stern flipper wiring diagram]]
 +
[[File:Stern Flipper Wiring Diagram WPC Coils.png|thumb|200px|right|Stern flipper wiring with WPC coils installed]]
 +
[[File:Stern Lower Left Flipper Stock Wiring.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Stern lower left flipper - stock wiring]]
 +
[[File:Stern Lower Left Flipper WPC Wiring.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Stern lower left flipper - WPC wiring]]
 +
[[File:Stern Lower Right Flipper Stock Wiring.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Stern lower right flipper - stock wiring]]
 +
[[File:Stern Lower Right Flipper WPC Wiring.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Stern lower right flipper - WPC wiring]] <BR>
 +
Considered drastic by some, while sacrilege by others, converting Bally or Stern flippers to Williams WPC style flippers can be done.  The only restriction may be whether or not the Williams flipper plate, which has a much larger footprint, will fit for a specific application or not.  The closest Williams flipper coil in strength is the FL-11630.  It is remarkably similar.  It is also recommended to use the A-12390 coil stop.  The A-12390 coil stop will result in nearly the same stroke at the Stern original flipper set up.  Also, use end-of-stroke switch 03-7811. This was the EOS switch used on pre-fliptronics Williams games.  If using the original Stern EOS switches, the long blade may need to be trimmed back. Otherwise, the blade may get caught on one of the flipper bushing screws.
 +
 
 +
As illustrated in the pics, the white wiring with the black Sharpie mark on it is the wire which goes to the secondary switch on the flippers.  The secondary switch is used to send ground to the upper flippers of the game.  The plain two white wires connect to the EOS switch of the flipper.  Either white wire can be attached to either EOS switch blade solder lug.  It does not matter. 
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Pop Bumper Problems===
 +
Pop bumpers on Bally/Stern games aren't that unusual, and the "usual" advice applies.
 +
 
 +
====Pop Bumper Randomly Fires====
 +
An occasional spurious pop from a pop bumper on these games is normal. This is, somehow, an intentional artifact of the software, attempting to aggressively "debounce". These kick with full strength, but do not score. (This is discussed in the Bally Theory of Operation manual.) However, a failing capacitor on a switch may also cause issues. See the [[#Switch_Capacitor_Purpose_and_Failure|information under the switch capacitor section]] for additional details.
 +
 
 +
If the bumper activates whenever the flipper fires, check to make sure the switch is clean and gapped properly.
 +
 
 +
====Bally New-Style Pop Bumpers====
 +
Bally changed the pop bumper assembling starting with Eight Ball Deluxe. Gone were the "Sunburst" caps. Caps are now two pieces, a large trim ring and a smaller inner logo circle.
 +
 
 +
Three tabs on the body of the pop bumper hold the trim ring on. These tabs tend to break off. Eventually, Bally added screw holes to the top of the bumper so that they could again be screwed on. Either the bumper cap or bumper body may be missing the screw holes, in which case the bumper body must be replaced.
 +
 
 +
If the original "pinned" lamp socket is present, replacing the body on these pop bumpers is quite easy. Remove the two nuts that hold the rod/ring assembly on under the playfield. Lower the playfield and remove the bumper cap and trim ring. Two screws can be removed from the bottom of the body. Pull the body off the playfield. The lamp socket will come with it, and two female housings will be holding the lamp socket on. These get pulled off. The socket comes out with a little coaxing and can be moved to the new pop bumper body.
 +
 
 +
One more note: The tabs of the bumper body were originally reinforced with a thin ring, 1mm in thickness and about as big around as the bumper cap itself. These were used to give the tabs a little more reinforcement so they don't flex and break off. Unfortunately, these are now unavailable.
 +
 
 +
===Setting Free Play===
 +
If you read the manual that came with your game, you'll notice there are no factory provisions for setting the games on non-coin play.  There are several options for homeowners to set their machines up so quarters or opening the coin door aren't required.
 +
 
 +
'''Free play via low replay scores'''
 +
 
 +
The easiest way to keep a quantity of credits on the machine is to set the first replay score to a very low value (10,000 on most machines).  This way you can put several credits on the machine initially, and then each game played will probably win a credit.  Press the self-test button inside the coin door until you see "01" in the ball-in-play display.  Press the button on the mpu board itself (S33) to clear this value to zero, then use the credit button (on the coin door) to step the setting one click forward to 10,000.  (Some games let you 'flick' a coin door switch to zero the value, S33 works for all games)
 +
 
 +
In most cases you will score 10,000 very quickly enabling the machine to self-replenish its credits.
 +
 
 +
'''Free play via adding a switch'''
 +
 
 +
If you like having the 'coin-up' sound most machines make, adding a free play switch to a game is relatively simple.  Any type of normally open switch can be soldered to one of the coin switches and mounted in an unobtrusive way (through the coin door return is a popular example, or mounted to the coin return instead).  While it is also possible to drill a hole in the cabinet or coin door to mount this type of switch, it is discouraged to do this as it is difficult or impossible to reverse cleanly.
 +
 
 +
This type of switch can be piggybacked onto the credit button switch itself, the initial full press will add a credit, and the pullback stroke will start a game.
 +
 
 +
'''Free play via ROM replacement'''
 +
 
 +
As of this writing, free play replacement ROMS are available for <u>all</u> Bally/Stern games.  For many years only Bally freeplay roms of various flavors were available, and these romsets are incorporated into some of the aftermarket replacement MPU boards.  In 2009 freeplay roms became available for all the stern mpu-100 and mpu-200 games as well, but as of yet (6/2020) are only incorporated into the Weebly replacement board (https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html).
 +
 
 +
Some varieties of free play roms never let the credits go below one, some require a DIP switch setting, and some are free play only.  Regardless of the type of free play rom used, they all work similarly.  When the credits fall below a certain amount, the software code either increments a credit automatically, simply allows a game start with credits showing 00, or never lets the credits decrement below 01.
 +
 
 +
For many people free play roms are the preferred method of handling free play as no hardware modifications are needed to incorporate free play, and you can still have replay levels set to challenging levels.  It also allows the machines to be placed in clubs, businesses, shows, etc. without the owner having to worry about people not knowing how to add credits via some other method.  Press the credit button and go.
 +
 
 +
Free play ROM images for Stern MPU-100 games can be found here: [[File:Mpu100-freeplayroms.zip]]‎.<br>
 +
Free play ROM images for Stern MPU-200 games can be found here: [[File:Mpu200-freeplayroms.zip]].
 +
 
 +
===Game Trips Power Line Circuit Breaker When Plugged into Outlet===
 +
[[File:Stern Blown Varistor.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Incoming power cord, line filter, and blown / shorted varistor (Stern Seawitch)]]<br><br>
 +
Had a thunderstorm roll through or a power surge from the electric company recently?  If so, and the game is now tripping the circuit breaker of the outlet it's plugged into, without the game's power switch turned on, the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor varistor] may have shorted.  The varistor is used to protect the rest of the game's circuitry from power surges.<br>
 +
 
 +
Both Bally and Stern use varistors, which are typically located on the left cabinet wall.  The varistor leads are soldered directly to the junction of the two power cord leads (hot and neutral) and the line side of the line filter.<br>
 +
 
 +
The obvious sign of a failed varistor is typically a black, charred discoloration throughout the "button" portion of the varistor. Varistors can blow rather violently, as seen in the adjacent pic, and there may be charred or burnt remains in the area surrounding the varistor.<br>
 +
 
 +
Varistors can be purchased from [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=76 Great Plains Electronics].  Order the 130V variant for 120VAC (typically games in the US), and the 275V variant for 240VAC (typcailly games in Europe).
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
===Bally/Stern LED stays on after boot===
 +
7th flash produced but no led dimming afterward:
 +
The problem was one of the capacitors around the u12 (clock signal) were bad.  I replaced c12,c16?, and c17.  After that I
 +
got the 7th flash and the dimmed led afterward.
 +
 
 +
===Solenoid Expander Board===
 +
[[file:Solenoid_Expander.jpg|thumb|left|alt=alternative text|Bally Solenoid Expander board- Arrow indicates necessary bulb]]<br>
 +
There is a 555 bulb near (or sometimes not so near) that lights when the solenoid expander is activated.  This bulb is essential for proper operation of the expander as the main opto isolator chip on the expander board needs a load to work.  If you're having entire sets of solenoids not working, check this bulb.<br>
 +
 
 +
The header pins on this board like to crack, also, so standard operating procedure should be to replace or at minimum resolder the headers, and re-pin the connector with Trifurcon connectors.<br>
 +
 
 +
Also, it's very important that all solenoids on the expanded circuits have *TWO* diodes on them!  If a coil was replaced with one that one had only a single diode, multiple solenoids could potentially activate on any solenoid expanded solenoid.  Some side effects of a single diode coil installed could be a "memory" drop target activating when it shouldn't, or a target bank reset engaging when a saucer is supposed to eject.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
===Using a Bally 7 digit display in a Stern game or using a Stern 7 digit display in a Bally game===
 +
Bally and Stern 7 digit displays are interchangeable. However, Stern displays do not support commas and a small modification to the printed circuit board is necessary to make each board display all 7 digits in a "foreign" platform.<br>
 +
 
 +
First, use a small jumper to connect J1, pins 11 and 12 together. Bally and Stern chose different pins (Bally used pin 12, where as Stern used pin 11) to strobe the 7th digit. Without this mod, placing a Stern 7 digit display into a Bally game will result in the 7th digit not being displayed (and vice versa). Making this modification creates a "universal" Bally/Stern 7 digit display.<br>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Stern Bally Display Depth.JPG|300px|thumb|left|Comparison between the PCB size of a Bally and Stern 7-digit display]]
 +
[[File:Stern Display Trays.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Stern display trays - 7-digit player displays are mounted to back of insert, while shallower 6-digit status display is mounted to front]]<br><br>
 +
 
 +
Bally and Stern also chose a different depth dimension for their display PCBs. Fortunately, the difference can be accommodated merely by mounting the display tray on the opposite side of the lamp insert panel. Note that this is also necessary when using "PinScore" displays in a Stern game. Alternatively, if using a Bally (or PinScore) display in a Stern game, since the Bally circuit board itself is not as deep, insert the display only as far as necessary for it to "flush up" to the backglass when installed.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Bally 7digit Stern Status.JPG|200px|thumb|left|Bally 7-Digit display used as a Stern status display before modification]]<br><br><br>
 +
Bally displays automatically show '''commas''' whenever the thousands and millions digits are lit. To make a Bally display "match" the Stern display's non-comma capable display, clip the base lead from Q22 and commas will no longer light up. You can alternatively clip one end of diodes CR1 and CR2 and lift the diodes off the board. This modification would be easier to reverse.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
Since Stern 7 digit displays do not support commas, using a Stern display in a Bally game will look a little "off" versus the other displays in the game, but this will get your displays running if you have no other choice.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
=== Bally Game running slow (delayed score, controlled lamp flicker) or if game crashes before attract mode starts ===
 +
 
 +
If your Bally game is running very slow (solenoid pulses are delayed and long, controlled lamps flicker, scoring takes a few seconds to register) or if your game boots with the typical 7 LED flashes but then crashes (dead game with garbage on the displays), before attract mode starts you may have a bad C16 capacitor.  C16 controls the display interrupt speed.  If it is out of spec, it could cause the gap between display interrupts to be too small, leaving the processor no time to service other game operation.  C16 is in the corrosion area near the 555 timer.
 +
 
 +
[[image:YT.png]] A YouTube video of a slow game caused by a failed capacitor at C16 can be viewed [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlGMGLHrDD8&feature=channel_video_title <b><u>here</u></b>].
 +
 
 +
A game running slow can also be caused by a failed U14, which implements the "zero crossing" circuit.
 +
Do NOT use the HEF4049. These will cause controlled lamps flicker.
 +
CD4049 is a good choice.
 +
 
 +
===Converting a Bally -17, -35 or Stern -100 CPU Board to a Stern -200===
 +
Stern MPU-200 CPU boards are probably the least common of the four CPU boards.  The -200 boards are compatible in -17, -35, and -100 games.  Although considering that -17, -35, and -100 boards are much more prevalent, it would be somewhat of a waste to use a -200 in any of these games.  What if the more common boards could be converted to a -200?  Check out [https://web.archive.org/web/20160309024537/http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=580 WarpZoneArcade's] blog entry to find out how to modify a -17, -35, or -100 to work as a -200.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==
 +
===Stern Seawitch===
 +
====Ball Trapped on Upper Left Flipper Plastic====
 +
[[file:Seawitch-Protector2.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Ball deflector installed on a Seawitch]]
 +
'''Problem:'''The ball gets trapped between the glass and the left side plastic above the 3 drop targets, from a hard shot to the center 3 drop targets.<br>
 +
 
 +
'''Solution:''' Cut a 11" (28cm) long by 5/8" to 7/8" (16mm to 22mm) strip of acrylic commonly used for home window glass replacement. Acrylic sheet can be scored and cut with a knife, but a bandsaw works best. Remove the plastic protector sheet, and plan the areas and angle you wish to bend.
 +
 
 +
With a propane torch (the instant on Bernz-o-Matic is great for this), heat the bend area for 2 seconds, and form the bend freehand or with a tabletop. The acrylic will stay soft and bendable for about 20 seconds, so if the angle is not right you can change the bend with or without additional heat from the torch. Clean up the cut edges and corners with a file and/or sandpaper. Brackets can be made out of thin stainless or mild steel. Keystone makes a bracket that is small and has 1 hole tapped for a 6-32 screw. (Manufacturer P/N#614 or Mouser P/N 534-614) A 6-32 nut & 3/8" computer case screw can be used to provide the needed clearance.
 +
<br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
[[File:Seawitch Ball Trap Lexan.jpg|left|thumb|Flat Lexan Ball Deflector installed on a Seawitch]]<br>
 +
[[File:Seawitch Ball Trap Standoff.jpg|right|thumb|Style of standoff used to secure Lexan to playfield]]
 +
Here is an alternate method to keep from balls getting trapped on top of the plastic behind the upper left flipper.  First, remove the existing large plastic behind the upper left flipper.  Next, place the plastic onto a piece of Lexan, and trace the right side of the plastic's shape onto the piece of Lexan.  Make certain to use enough of the plastic to cover the 3 screw holes in the vicinity of the flipper.  These 3 screw holes will be used to secure the Lexan. Now, cut the piece of Lexan with a jigsaw.  The edges can be smoothed with a file or sandpaper.  Next, again place the plastic on the Lexan, and if satisfied with the results, mark the 3 screw holes that secure the plastic to the threaded metal standoff posts.  Using about an 1/8" bit, (double check the exact size), drill the holes where the Lexan is marked. Place the original plastic back on the playfield.  Take 3 nylon standoffs, which are typically used to secure circuit boards to a flat surface, and screw them onto the threaded metal standoff posts, where the nylon or rubber cap nuts would normally go.  Do not use too long of a post, otherwise the playfield glass will hit the Lexan.  Standoffs can be purchased from [https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=134 Great Plains Electronics].  Finally, firmly place the piece of Lexan down on the 3 nylon standoffs. <br clear=all>
 +
 
 +
====Upper Flippers Power Resistor====
 +
[[File:Seawitch Upper Flip Resistor.JPG|200px|left|thumb|Power Resistor Installed in Series on Upper Left Flipper (Seawitch)]]<br><br>
 +
On Seawitch, both upper flippers have a single 1 ohm 5 watt power resistor installed in series with the power winding of each flipper coil.  Neither resistor is listed in the game's manual or schematics.  It is presumed that the resistors were installed due to the upper flippers close proximity of nearby drop targets and plastics.  The resistors are not necessary for proper function, and could be by-passed, but it is best to keep the resistors installed.  The lack of this resistor will increase the flipper power, and more frequent breakage of drop targets or plastics may result.<br>
 +
 
 +
Similar resistors were installed on other Stern games at this time typically on upper flippers that were close to targets.
  
−
Next thing to check is to be sure that the 170 volts is making it to the displays. Check connector pin J3-8 on the solenoid driver board, that's where the 170 VDC leaves. Check for a good connector, and check the solder joint on the header pin. The high voltage hits all of the displays at connector J1-1 and is daisy-chained from display to display. Check these connectors and the header pins too. On at least some early Stern games like Dracula, there is a fuse for the displays mounted on the back of the backbox door, often covered by a cardboard tag. It may be that these early games came without the fuse on the SDB. Check for proper amperage and continuity on this fuse holder if no voltage is reaching the displays.
+
An alternate to leaving the resistors in place (used in this application as a crude voltage reduction device; i.e. runs very hot and causes burn marks on the bottom of the playfield) is to open up the end of stroke switches instead. The flipper will flip with less power which is the intended goal.
−
 
+
<br clear=all>
−
Note - If there is any light at all on the display, then it is probably repairable.  Some type of Bally display glasses will have some light on them, besides the digits.  If there is light anywhere on the display, then the glass is most likely OK and your problems are elsewhere.
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:Dispglow.jpg|center]]
 
−
<center>See how this display is glowing when it's first turned on? This indicates that the glass is good.</center>.
 
−
 
 
−
<center><font color=Red>
 
−
REMEMBER - 170 VDC WILL HURT!<br>
 
−
TURN YOUR MACHINE OFF IF YOU'RE GOING TO MESS WITH IT BEYOND MEASURING VOLTAGES
 
−
</font></center><br>
 
−
 
 
−
If you have 170 VDC at all of the displays, and the decoder is still working, but the displays are still blank, then there is probably a problem on the MPU or the MPU connectors, such as a "stuck-on" blanking signal, etc.
 
−
 
 
−
'''A single display is blank'''
 
−
 
 
−
If you have one display that is blank, it could be the same problems as mentioned above (lack of 170VDC), something wrong on the circuit board, or something with the glass display itself.  If you see any light glowing at all on the display, then the glass is most likely good and your problem is elsewhere.
 
−
 
 
−
The main cause of a single display being blank is a bad glass.  If the glass is good, then your problem is most likely a bad 4543 decoder IC.  The decoder on the display driver board is used to decode the digit data from the MPU into signals that light the proper displays.  If the decoder is blown, then this could cause the display to be blank.  A quick check with a logic probe will help you decide if the decoder is function properly.
 
−
 
 
−
Sometimes the solder joints on the display glass needs are cracked and need to be reflowed.  Depending on which solder joints are bad, this could cause the display to be blank.
 
−
 
 
−
If you can verify there is 170VDc, and the decoder is working, then it may be just a bad display.  If there is some light anywhere, then it's probably good.  If not, it may or may not be good.  A totally blank display is the hardest thing to fix.  If everything looks good, but the display is completely blank, then you may just have to chalk it up as a bad display glass. Unfortunately they can not be repaired.
 
−
 
 
−
'''All displays are missing the same digit'''
 
−
 
 
−
If all the displays have the same digit out, then the problem is most likely caused by a bad connector at the MPU. The MPU daisy-chains the digit enable signal to all the displays, and if the same digit is out on all, then it's either an amazing thing that they all have a problem w/ the same digit, or the digit enable signal is not present. Check the connectors on the MPU and all of the displays. If all seem well, then one-by-one, disconnect each display and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then there's a short or a bad connector problem on the board you just removed. Be sure to turn the power off between swap-outs, and wait 10 seconds for the high voltage filter capacitor to discharge before you remove any connectors.
 
−
 
 
−
'''One display is missing the same segments on all the digits'''
 
−
 
 
−
Each display has it's own decoder chip, which takes four inputs from the MPU and outputs seven signals to light the seven segments of a digit. If you're having problems with one or more segments on all the digits, then it's either the segment driver transistor or the decoder itself. I'm sure there's a way to test the transistor but I just go ahead and install a new one. If that doesn't fix it, then replacing the decoder will. I've not had a segment problem that was not fixed by replacing both segment drivers and decoders (other than MPU problems). Be sure to orient the transistor and/or IC in the proper position. You'll notice a flat side on the transistor and a small notch on one end of the decoder IC. Be sure they line up just like the one you removed, and that the wires of the transistor go into the same holes that the old one came out of. Also, if you're replacing the IC, use a socket, so it'll be easier to replace it next time. Here's a handy chart that shows which segment driver transistor drives which segment, and another diagram of how the segments are labeled. Just find the segment that's giving you trouble on the chart, then look up it's corresponding driver transistor. Then find this transistor on the circuit board and replace it.
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:B-decoder-chart.jpg|center]]
 
−
 
 
−
'''One digit is out on one of the displays'''
 
−
 
 
−
If you have a single digit out, then it's probably the the level shifter and digit driver transistors for that digit. Just to be sure, check the connector on the display at pins J1-4 through J1-9. These are the connectors that supply the digit-enable signals from the MPU. Your problem may be that the display driver is not getting the enable signal from the MPU. If it is, then just replace the two transistors and you should be back in business. Here's a handy chart that shows you which level shifter and digit driver are associated with each digit. You'll find the transistor labels printed on the circuit board, or look at the diagram below. Just look at this chart, find the digit that's blank, and then locate the two transistors listed for that digit. Find them on the circuit board and replace them.
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:B-digit-chart.jpg|center]]
 
−
 
 
−
'''One digit is very bright, and the rest are out'''
 
−
 
 
−
If you have one digit that's very bright and all the rest are out, simply replace the digit driver and level shifter transistors for that digit. Turns out sometimes a short transistor will draw so much current that there's not enough left to drive the remaining digits, and so they all go blank. Just use the chart above to determine which transistors to replace.
 
−
 
 
−
'''Display(s) flicker'''
 
−
[[Image:CrackedHeadersAnnotated.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Closeup of Cracked Header Pins on a Bally/Stern Display Module. These cracks caused rapid "flicker" of the display.]]
 
−
This is almost always caused by broken solder joints on the header pins. If you already re-flowed the solder, double check them, then look for other broken solder joints and check all connectors for tight fits. Something is loose that's making them flicker.  
 
−
 
 
−
Another cause of flickering or strobing digits is a faulty decoder IC.  If your digits are flickering or "wavy", try replacing the decoder IC.
 
−
 
 
−
Here is a link to a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCsisnUJWoY video] of a display board with a faulty 4543 decoder IC.  Keep in mind that failed / failing decoder chips do emit symptoms other than what is seen in the video.  Please see the other symptoms discussed above in this section.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
'''Conclusion'''
 
−
 
 
−
That covers the most popular problems. I hope it covers yours. If you don't have the manual for your pinball machine, click on any of the thumbnails below for a large picture of the component layout of the all three boards. The 100K Ohm resistors are the ones colored brown-black-yellow.
 
−
 
 
−
=====Display Examples=====
 
  
−
Here are the 3 types of Bally displays:
+
===Stern Hot Hand Not Booting at 5th Flash or Game Locks-up at Game Over===
  
−
[[File:B-disp6-21.jpg|center]]
+
If you find that your Stern Hot Hand game sometimes won't boot-up on the 5th flash; or that sometimes at Game-Over the displays go blank and the game dies, there is a good possibility it's the rotating flipper motor. The rotating flipper is pulsed briefly (on/off) as a byproduct of the PIA U11 test (5th flash) during boot-up.  It also rotates constantly during a game and shuts off at game-over. 
−
<center>AS-2518-21 6-Digit Display</center><br>
 
  
−
[[File:B-disp6-15.jpg|center]]
+
[[File:SternHH.png|300px|thumb|left|Diagram of the Stern Hot Hand motor showing the capacitor and MOV soldered across the motor terminals]]
−
<center>AS-2518-15 6-Digit Display</center><br>
+
The rotating flipper motor is connected directly to the 48V terminals 2 and 6 of the transformer.  The 48V to the motor is controlled by a relay mounted to the motor bracket.  Q18 on the Solenoid Driver Board energizes and de-energizes the relay coil which turns the motor on and off.  When the motor turns off, it sends a voltage spike (EMF collapsing) that can sometimes be picked up by the MPU and cause the game to not boot (5th flash) or just shut down after game-over.  During the boot sequence U11 PIA test (5th flash) the game enables all solenoids briefly as an artifact of how the test is performed. The slight on/off and resulting EMF pulse during the boot up on the 5th flash can cause the MPU to lock up.
  
−
[[File:B-disp7-58.jpg|center]]
+
Apparently Stern didn't realize this issue until later and seemed to have modified Orbitor 1 to suppress the spike.  On Orbitor 1, there is both a 1uF, 2kV capacitor and 130V Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV) in parallel across the bumper motor terminals.  This can also be accomplished with a 2.2uF, 250V mylar film capacitor and a 100V MOV soldered in parallel across the motor terminals.  These devices help suppress the voltage spike
−
<center>AS-2518-58 7-Digit Display</center><br>
+
at the motor and keep it from reaching the MPU and causing lock ups.  Simply solder both the MOV and capacitor across the rotating flipper motor terminals.  The capacitor and MOV are not polarity specific so it doesn't matter which device lead goes on which motor terminal.
−
 
 
−
 
 
−
Here is the Stern DA-300 display.  Note that the circuit board is deeper than any of the other display types.
 
−
 
 
−
[[File:S-disp7-300.jpg|center]]
 
−
 
 
−
===Sound problems===
 
−
Regardless of the sound board, it is always best to first remove the existing solder from the header pins, and reflow new solder onto them.  Due to vibration over time, the header pin connections can end up with cracked solder joints, which is very common on the Bally sound boards.  The next order of business would to replace the volume pot and the secondary pot, if one is used on the board.  The original, factory pots used were not sealed, therefore, dirt and other contaminants can cause the pot to have dead spots or fail in general.  Once these two things are done initially, troubleshooting the sound board, if it's still not working will be a lot easier.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
If the board is still not working after the above recommended procedures, the next thing would be to check all of the voltages used on the board.  See the [http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Sound_Test_Point_Values Sound Test Point Value] section for the test point voltage values for each particular sound board.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
If all of the voltages check out, it's time to move onto the appropriate sound board troubleshooting section below.
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
====-32 & -50 Sound Board Troubleshooting====
 
−
Both the -32 and -50 sound boards use at least two 10Kohm pots.  One for volume and the other for sustain.<br>
 
  
−
Should the 86L93 (U11) chip fail, the [http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=74LS93&sprice=&stype=&scat= 74LS93] is a viable substitute.
+
===Stern Meteor===
 +
There is a software bug in Meteor's software concerning the bonus countdown - you will get a seemingly endless bonus multiplier at the end of your ball. (It's actually 255 x)
  
−
A bad 1N4004 diode (CR3) on the incoming 43V line can cause the CPU to halt at 6 flashes upon boot up.<br clear=all>
+
This is caused by a re-use of a memory location that holds your original bonus multiplier value during bonus countdown.  The memory location is shared with the "collect all rockets" subroutine on the outlanes.  If the software is dealing with lots of active threads, such as the spinner spinning at the same time as the collect all rockets and outhole subroutine are active, the bonus multiplier will become zero and count down from 255->1. 
  
−
====-51 Sound Board Troubleshooting====
+
An updated game ROM named "U1a" includes a patch for the bug and is available on [http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1580 the Meteor IPDB page].
−
The -51 sound boards uses a single 1Kohm volume pot.
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
====Sounds Plus Sound Board Troubleshooting====
+
===Stern Orbitor 1===
−
This is a stub.
+
Two balls need to be in the trough on boot up, or else you will hear "shoot pinball again" over and over with no attract mode
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
====Vocalizer Speech Board Troubleshooting====
 
−
This is a stub.
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
====Squawk & Talk Sound Board Troubleshooting====
 
−
All of the versions of Squawk & Talk sound boards use two 1Kohm pots.  One is used for volume control, while the other is for speech.
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
 
 
−
====Say It Again Reverb Board Troubleshooting====
 
−
This is a stub.
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
====Cheap Squeak Sound Board Troubleshooting====
 
  
−
The  Cheap Squeak's LED should flash four times for a successful boot up sequence. Two quick flashes, a pause, two more quick flashes then stay on. Once the LED stays on, it seems to turn itself off for certain sounds, and then turn back on.  Likewise, it appears to idle with the LED on, when no sounds are playing.
+
===Centaur===
−
<br clear=all>
+
If the game is missing any of the pinballs (or a bad trough switch) the game will not fully boot. The displays will show all "0"s across all displays. Hitting the test button will allow you to enter the test menu, and you can proceed to switch test to diagnose the trough switches.
  
−
====SB-100 Sound Board====
+
==Parts Substitutions & Replacements==
−
Technical write up regarding the SB-100 sound board is located [http://www.techdose.com/projects/Stern-Pinball-SB100-Sound-Board/346/page1.html here].
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
−
=====Adjusting the Sound Quality on a Stern SB-100 board=====
 
−
 
 
−
Earlier versions of the Stern SB-100 Sound board can have an unpleasant high pitched sound for all the different sounds. STERN advises the following changes to lower the frequency of the tones, which sound much better to my ears.
 
  
−
* replace all 3 of the 5k potentiometers at R2,R6, & R13 to 25k ohm pots. Suggested part # is 15mm Piher PT15LH06-253A2020
+
===Components===
−
* Replace the 2.2k ohm resistor at R12 with 8.2k 1/4 watt
+
====Driver Board LM323K 5V Regulator====
−
* adjust the frequencies by putting the RED lead from your multimeter set to the Frequency (Hz) setting, on the TP and the BLACK lead on a ground on the sound board and turning the pots one way or the other in small increments to the following specs.
+
Since the LM323K has become scarce, with mainly just sub-par Chinese knock-offs and counterfeit components available as replacements, an alternative is the [https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5/ EZSBC PSU5 LM323K replacement], and [https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5-nonoise/ the newer "no noise" version] for games exhibiting speaker noise when using the original style PSU5.
  
−
*TP2 Adjust R6    138 Hz +/- 3Hz
+
When installing on a Bally solenoid driver board, be sure to remove R49 since it adds an unnecessary load to the device (which is only necessary with a real LM323K), and replace R50 with a jumper, since the this device expects a direct path to ground. However, make sure to use an actual wire for the jumper and not a zero ohm resistor. A lot of current can surge through this critical connection and the wire on some zero ohm resistors may be too thin to handle it, which can result in voltage drops.
−
*TP3 Adjust R2    104 Hz +/- 3 Hz
 
−
*TP5      Adjust R13    172 Hz +/- 3 Hz
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
====SB-300 Sound Board====
+
When using the PSU5, the large heatsink required by the LM323K is no longer needed and can be removed. It can also be left in place in the event that it is ever needed in the future.
−
Technical write up regarding the SB-300 sound board is located [http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/rep_soundsb300.html here].
 
  
−
<br clear=all>
+
Note that since the PSU5 is a switching device (rather than a linear device like the LM323K), it may introduce noise/static (or a "machine gun" sound) to the sound board or speaker. Adding a 1000uf/20v capacitor to the driver board between the 5V trace and the ground trace near J3 may help reduce or eliminate the issue.
−
=====Stern SB-300 Sound Board Modification for VSU-100 Usage=====
 
−
Games with a VSU-100 speech card require a modified SB-300 to utilize the speech. First, see if your SB-300 already has a trace for this connection by checking continuity between pin 5 of the rightmost connector at the bottom and the top of capacitor C14.  If you read continuity, you do not need to do this mod.<br>
 
  
 +
An updated version of the PSU5, called the PSU5NN (NN = no noise) eliminates the "machine gun" sound sometimes imparted when powering a game down with the older version of the PSU5 installed. It can be found [https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5-nonoise/ <b>here</b>].<br clear=all>
  
−
<center>
+
[[File:Bally5VAdjust.png|300px|thumb|left|Resistors that can be used to adjust output of the OEM LM323K or 78H05. <i>(Image courtesy of PinSider barakandl)</i>]]
−
<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=3 caption="Stern SB-300 Added Jumper Modification for Speech">
+
[[File:EzSBCBallyStern.jpg|300px|thumb|right|A Stern Solenoid/Driver board updated with the ezSBC 5V regulator. R49 has been removed (previously located where the dotted line is) and R50 ha been removed and replaced with a beefy wire jumper. R49 and R50 are pictured laying on the board for reference. <i>(Image courtesy of Chris Hibler)</i>]]<br>
−
File:sb300sig3.jpg|<center><b>First solder point for jumper<br>(pin 5 of rightmost connector)</b></center>
+
In the standard Bally/Stern implementation, resistors R49 and R50 increase the output voltage, presumably to accommodate voltage loss across connectors and the variance within the LM323K 5% specification.
−
File:sb300sig2.jpg|<center><b>Second solder point for jumper<br>(top of capacitor C14)</b></center>
 
−
File:sb300sign1.jpg|<center><b>Overall picture of jumper</b></center>
 
−
</gallery>
 
−
</center>
 
−
<br clear=all>
 
  
−
====VSU-100 Speech Board====
+
If the LM323K outputs a perfect 5.00 volts between its pin 2 and 3, R49 and R50 will increase the output voltage according to this simplified equation:
−
Work in progress.
 
  
−
Pray the S14001A speech chip isn't bad on this board!! Really hard to find.
+
*<i>Vout = 5.00 * (1+ (R50/R49))</i>
  
−
<br clear=all>
+
Bally and Stern used a 100 ohm resistor at R49.<br>
 +
Bally used a 2.2 ohm resistor at R50.<br>
 +
Stern used a 4.7 ohm resistor at R50.
  
−
===Flipper problems===
+
Therefore, based on the above formula, a Bally board will deliver about 5.11 volts.<br>
−
====Photo Identification of Different Types of Flipper Assemblies====
+
A Stern board, based on the above formula, will deliver about 5.23 volts.
  
−
<center>
+
The specified tolerance of the LM323K is 5%. A 5% tolerance means that parts will deliver somewhere between 4.75 and 5.25 volts.
−
<gallery widths=225px heights=300px perrow=4 caption="Bally & Stern Flipper Assemblies">
+
Using Stern's resistor values, with a LM323K delivering the spec maximum of 5.25 volts, the formula above yields an output of 5.49 volts.
−
File:BallyStarTrekFlipper.jpg|<center><b>Early Bally Flipper mechanism from a 1978 Star Trek</b></center>
 
−
File:BallyMedusaFlipper.jpg|<center><b>Later Bally Flipper mechanism from a 1981 Medusa. Commonly referred to as "linear flippers". Note-Double EOS switch for Upper Zipper Flipper</b></center>
 
−
File:SternDraculaFlipper.jpg|<center><b>Early Stern Flipper mechanism from a 1979 Dracula. Note-Double EOS switch for Upper Flipper</b></center>
 
−
File:SternSeawitchFlipper.jpg|<center><b>Later Stern Flipper mechanism from a 1981 Star Gazer</b></center>
 
−
</gallery>
 
−
</center>
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
−
=====Rebuilding Flippers=====
 
−
Nothing makes more of a difference on a game than having taut, crisp, flippers.  Even if every other mechanical component on a game is rebuilt, if the flippers are sluggish and weak, players walk away with a sour taste of the games' experience.  At a minimum, flippers should be taken apart, inspected for wear, have their coil sleeve replaced with new, and reassembled while dressing any worn plungers/stops with a file.  Additionally, the end of stroke switch should be filed and adjusted, as well as the cabinet switches that actuate the flippers.
 
−
 
−
It is best to replace the plungers and links, the coil stop, and the end of stroke switch(es) with brand new components.  Quality varies in replacement parts for this era game, with some components being completely unavailable in suitable replacements.  One example is the proper Stern coil stop for flippers - while there is a modern replacement, it is very expensive and does not seem to work as well as the original copper colored stops.  You can swap the copper stops from stern pop bumpers which show very little wear into the flipper positions.  The worn stop from the flipper will usually work on the pop bumper fine as the pulse rarely pulls the pop plunger down to the stop (hence why they are perfect to swap).
 
−
 
−
When reassembling the flipper, check the bushing for cracks or wear - the bushing's job is to hold the flipper bat square to the playfield at a high enough height to prevent the flipper from dragging across the playfield surface, causing gouging and wear.  Be sure the flipper has a slight up-down leeway built in at both rest and at extension.  The inlane guide should be a smooth transition from guide to flipper; while you can't adjust the flipper to tweak this, you can and should adjust the lane guide.
 
−
 
−
{WIP}
 
−
 
−
===Setting Free Play===
 
−
If you read the manual that came with your game, you'll notice there are no factory provisions for setting the games on non-coin play.  There are several options for homeowners to set their machines up so quarters or opening the coin door aren't required.
 
−
 
−
'''Free play via low replay scores'''
 
−
 
−
The easiest way to keep a quantity of credits on the machine is to set the first replay score to a very low value (10,000 on most machines).  This way you can put several credits on the machine initially, and then each game played will probably win a credit.  Press the self-test button inside the coin door until you see "01" in the ball-in-play display.  Press the button on the mpu board itself (S33) to clear this value to zero, then use the credit button (on the coin door) to step the setting one click forward to 10,000.  (Some games let you 'flick' a coin door switch to zero the value, S33 works for all games)
 
−
 
−
In most cases you will score 10,000 very quickly enabling the machine to self-replenish its credits.
 
−
 
−
'''Free play via adding a switch'''
 
−
 
−
If you like having the 'coin-up' sound most machines make, adding a free play switch to a game is relatively simple.  Any type of normally open switch can be soldered to one of the coin switches and mounted in an unobtrusive way (through the coin door return is a popular example, or mounted to the coin return instead).  While it is also possible to drill a hole in the cabinet or coin door to mount this type of switch, it is discouraged to do this as it is difficult or impossible to reverse cleanly.
 
−
 
−
This type of switch can be piggybacked onto the credit button switch itself, the initial full press will add a credit, and the pullback stroke will start a game.
 
  
−
'''Free play via ROM replacement'''
+
===Available 3D Printed Replacements===
  
−
As of this writing, free play replacement ROMS are available for <u>all</u> Bally/Stern games. For many years only Bally freeplay roms of various flavors were available, and these romsets are incorporated into some of the aftermarket replacement MPU boards.  In 2009 freeplay roms became available for all the stern mpu-100 and mpu-200 games as well, but as of yet (5/2011) are not incorporated into any aftermarket boards. 
+
With the increased availability of 3D printed parts, some Bally and Stern parts are being offered up via Shapeways and other 3D object marketplaces. Some of the available parts are:
  
−
Some varieties of free play roms never let the credits go below one, some require a DIP switch setting, and some are free play only. Regardless of the type of free play rom used, they all work similarly. When the credits fall below a certain amount, the software code either increments a credit automatically, simply allows a game start with credits showing 00, or never let the credits decrement below 01.
+
* [http://www.shapeways.com/product/5A3C6F67G/bally-pinball-ball-outhole-kicker-arm-c-972-3?li=shop-results&optionId=43401482 Bally C-972-3 outhole kicker arm] used on games like Fathom<br>
−
 
+
* [http://www.shapeways.com/product/Z49NGF785/bally-ss-pinball-1-globe-light-shroud-upgrade?li=shop-results&optionId=43386300 Bally lamp insert single lamp shroud]<br>
−
For many people free play roms are the preferred method of handling free play as no hardware modifications are needed to incorporate free play, and you can still have replay levels set to challenging levels.  It also allows the machines to be placed in clubs, businesses, shows, etc. without the owner having to worry about people not knowing how to add credits via some other method.  Press the credit button and go.
+
* [http://www.shapeways.com/product/TNXKP3CPZ/bally-ss-pinball-2-globe-light-shroud-upgraded?li=shop-results&optionId=41384171 Bally lamp insert double lamp shroud]<br>
−
 
+
* [http://www.shapeways.com/product/X9SK45SSM/bally-pinball-rollover-button-c-587-6-ss-em?li=shop-results&optionId=43385429 Bally C-587-6 miniature white rollover button] used on games like Xenon<br>
−
==Game Specific Problems and Fixes==
+
* [http://www.shapeways.com/product/WV6TYWTKB/80-s-stern-ss-pinball-coin-plate-chute?li=shop-results&optionId=43403498 Stern coin insert plate] it is assumed that these have large enough slot openings to accept dollar coins
−
===Stern Seawitch===
 
−
 
 
−
'''Problem:'''The ball gets trapped between the glass and the left side plastic above the 3 drop targets, from a hard shot to the center 3 drop targets.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
'''Solution:''' Cut a 11" (28cm) long by 5/8" to 7/8" (16mm to 22mm) strip of acrylic commonly used for home window glass replacement. Acrylic sheet can be scored and cut with a knife, but a bandsaw works best. Remove the plastic protector sheet, and plan the areas and angle you wish to bend.
 
−
 
 
−
With a propane torch (the instant on Benzomatic is great for this), heat the bend area for 2 seconds, and form the bend freehand or with a tabletop. The acrylic will stay soft and bendable for about 20 seconds, so if the angle is not right you can change the bend with or without additional heat from the torch. Clean up the cut edges and corners with a file and/or sandpaper. Brackets can be made out of thin stainless or mild steel. Keystone makes a bracket that is small and has 1 hole tapped for a 6-32 screw. (Manufacturer P/N#614 or Mouser P/N 534-614) A 6-32 nut & 3/8" computer case screw can be used to provide the needed clearance.
 
−
[[file:Seawitch-Protector2.jpg|left|thumb|alt=alternative text|Ball deflector installed on a Seawitch]]<br><br><br><br clear=all>
 
−
 
 
−
 
−
===Bally/Stern LED stays on after boot===
 
−
7th flash produced but no led dimming afterward:
 
−
The problem was one of the capacitors around the u12 (clock signal) was bad. I replaced c12,c16?, and c17. After that I
 
−
got the 7th flash and the dimmed led afterward
 
−
----
 
−
===Solenoid expander board===
 
−
There is a 555 bulb near (or sometimes not so near) that lights when the solenoid expander is activated.  This bulb is essential for proper operation of the expander as the main opto isolator chip on the expander board needs a load to work; if you're having entire sets of solenoids not working, check this bulb.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
The header pins on this board like to crack, also, so standard operating procedure should be to replace or at minimum resolder the headers, and re-pin the connector with Trifurcon connectors.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
Also, it's very important that all solenoids on the expanded circuits have *TWO* diodes on them!  If you or someone in the past replaced the coils with one that one had one, multiple solenoids will activate on any solenoid expanded solenoid, causing a memory drop to activate when it shouldn't, or a target bank reset when a saucer ejects.
 
−
[[file:Solenoid_Expander.jpg|thumb|left|alt=alternative text|Bally Solenoid Expander board- Arrow indicates necessary bulb]]
 
 
<br clear=all>
 
<br clear=all>
  
−
===Using a Bally 7 digit display in a Stern game or using a Stern 7 digit display in a Bally game===
+
===Repair Logs===
−
Bally and Stern 7 digit displays are interchangeable. However, Stern displays do not support commas and a small modification to the printed circuit board is necessary to make each board display all 7 digits in a "foreign" platform.
+
====MPU boot halts after 2nd flash on Centaur====
−
 
+
Note: One possible reason that the boot process may stop after 2 flashes is if MPU J1 connector and lamp board J1 connector have been swapped, as indicated by this repair:
−
First, use a small jumper to connect J1, pins 11 and 12 together. Bally and Stern chose different pins to strobe the 7th digit. Without this mod, placing a Stern 7 digit display into a Bally game will result in the 7th digit not being displayed (and vice versa). Making this modification creates a "universal" Bally/Stern 7 digit display.
+
Here's a weird gotcha. While reconnecting the wiring harness to a previously known working Centaur II, the game wouldn't boot (only 2 flashes). We swapped in a known working Alltek reproduction board. Same symptom! After looking at a set of Centaur schematics we had on hand, the first half dozen pins of J1 on the MPU were striped wires, while the schematics called for solid-colored wires. Wait a minute... That's when we realized that the J1 connector on the MPU and the adjacent lamp driver board are not only the same number of pins, but the same KEY!! ARGH!!! Thankfully no damage was done on these low voltage lines. Swapping the MPU and lamp driver boards' J1 connectors resulted in a perfectly bootable/functional game. Why this accidental swap caused the 5101 RAM check to fail is an exercise left to the user.
−
 
 
−
Bally and Stern also chose a different depth dimension for their display PCBs. Fortunately, the difference can be accommodated merely by mounting the display tray on the opposite side of the lamp insert panel. Note that this is also necessary when using "PinScore" displays in a Stern game. Alternatively, if using a Bally (or PinScore) display in a Stern game, since the Bally circuit board itself is not as deep, insert the display only as far as necessary for it to "flush up" to the backglass when installed.
 
−
 
 
−
Bally displays automatically show '''commas''' whenever the thousands and millions digits are lit. To make a Bally display "match" the Stern display's non-comma capable display, clip the base lead from Q22 and commas will no longer light up. You can alternatively clip one end of diodes CR1 and CR2 and lift the diodes off the board. This modification would be easier to reverse.<br>
 
−
 
 
−
Since Stern 7 digit displays do not support commas, using a Stern display in a Bally game will look a little "off" versus the other displays in the game, but this will get your displays running if you have no other choice.
 
−
 
 
−
===Bally Game running slow(delayed score, controlled lamp flicker) or if game crashes before attract mode starts===
 
−
 
 
−
If you bally game is running very slow(solenoid pulses are delayed and long, controlled lamps flicker, scoring takes a few seconds to register) or if your games boots and flashes 7 times but crashes(dead game with junk on the displays) before attract mode starts you may have a bad C16 cap. C16 cap controls the display interrupt speed.  If it is out of spec it could cause display interrupts to be too quick and bog down the processor.  C16 cap is in the corrosion area along with the 555 timer.
 
−
 
 
−
See youtube video of slow game caused by c16 cap.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlGMGLHrDD8&feature=channel_video_title
 
−
 
 
−
===Converting a Bally -17, -35 or Stern -100 CPU Board to a Stern -200===
 
−
Stern MPU-200 CPU boards are probably the least common of the four CPU boards.  The -200 boards are compatible in -17, -35, and -100 games.  Although considering that -17, -35, and -100 boards are much more prevalent, it would be somewhat of a waste to use a -200 in any of these games.  What if the more common boards could be converted to a -200?  Check out [http://warpzonearcade.com/?p=415 WarpZoneArcade's] blog entry to find out how to modify a -17, -35, or -100 to work as a -200.
 
−
<br clear=all>
 

Latest revision as of 21:57, 18 September 2024

Click to go back to the Bally/Stern solid state repair guides index.

1 Introduction

Bally -17 Board Set
Bally -35 Board Set


Bally first started to experiment with solid state in the mid 70s with a couple conversions of EM games, Flicker and Bow & Arrow. Flicker's control system was designed by Jeff Frederiksen of Dave Nutting Associates, a Bally think-tank. This board utilized the Intel 4004 microprocessor. One prototype was built and was re-discovered in 1998. The Bow & Arrow system of which 17 were eventually built more closely resembles what actually ended up in the production games starting with Freedom. This boardset was designed by a Bally engineer named Doug MacDonald. There are at least two revisions of the prototype run's software in existence.

For an interesting read, the patent Bally filed for their first "computerized pinball machine" can be viewed here.

Stern M-100 Board Set
Stern M-200 Board Set


The early circuit boards were fabricated by a company called Universal Research Laboratories (URL). URL was purchased by Gary Stern as part of his strategy in acquiring the assets of the defunct Chicago Coin; it is this connection that enabled Stern to use essentially the same hardware for their solid state games as Bally. The software is remarkably similar as well, although Bally was more apt to use a "set" of operating system roms (the U6 chip) for several games, whereas Stern opted to custom-compile their roms for each game, or at most, pairs of games.

Bally Goldball special driver/voltage board


Some later -35 Bally games used a combination of the solenoid driver board and the lamp driver board.

The core system consists of:

  • A transformer to produce various AC voltages from line voltage
  • A rectifier board to convert those AC voltages to DC and provide fuse protection
  • A solenoid driver/voltage regulator board to regulate/filter the DC voltages and provide switching for solenoids
  • A lamp driver board to switch up to 60 lamps on/off


Optional components added to the system at later dates include:

  • Various sound boards, providing various type of sounds from simple tones, to background sound, to complex speech and sounds
  • Auxiliary lamp driver boards, to provide control for more than 60 lamps
  • Solenoid expander boards to allow more than 15 controllable momentary solenoids to be connected


2 Games

A list of solid state games by system and manufacturer (including those that aren't necessarily pinball). Source: http://www.ipdb.org

2.1 Bally

Game Title MPU Power Supply Lamp driver Sound Additional Boards Transformer
Freedom AS-2518-17 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-14 Chimes E-122-125 see note
Night Rider AS-2518-17 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-14 Chimes E-122-125
Black Jack AS-2518-17 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-14 Chimes E-122-125
Evel Knievel AS-2518-17 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-14 Chimes E-122-125
Eight Ball AS-2518-17 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-14 Chimes E-122-125
Power Play AS-2518-17 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-14 Chimes E-122-125
Mata Hari AS-2518-17 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 Chimes E-122-125
Strikes & Spares AS-2518-17 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 Chimes E-122-125
Lost World AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-32 E-122-125
The Six Million Dollar Man AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-32 E-122-125
Playboy AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-32 E-122-125
Voltan AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-32 A few games were outfitted with an AS-2518-51 sound board for testing E-122-125
Supersonic AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-32 E-122-125
Star Trek AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-50 E-122-125
Game Title MPU Power Supply Lamp driver Sound Additional Boards Transformer
Kiss AS-2518-35 AS-2518-49 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-50 Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 E-122-131
Paragon AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-50 E-122-125
Harlem Globetrotters AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-50 E-122-125
Dolly Parton AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-50 E-122-125
Future Spa AS-2518-35 AS-2518-49 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 E-122-131
Space Invaders AS-2518-35 AS-2518-49 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52 E-122-131
Nitro Groundshaker AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 E-122-125
Silverball Mania AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 E-122-125
Rolling Stones AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 E-122-125
Mystic AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 E-122-125
Hotdoggin AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 E-122-125
Viking AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 E-122-125
Skateball AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 E-122-125
Frontier AS-2518-35 AS-2518-18 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 E-122-125
Xenon AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-56 (Sounds Plus) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Vocalizer module AS-2518-57 E-122-142
Game Title MPU Power Supply Lamp driver Sound Additional Boards Transformer
Flash Gordon AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61 (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, early games used the Sounds Plus (AS-2518-56) board and Vocalizer module (AS-2518-57) instead of the S&T board E-122-142
Eight Ball Deluxe AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 E-122-142
Embryon AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52 E-122-142
Fireball II AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Auxiliary Driver - SCR Lamp Flasher AS-2518-67, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 E-122-142
Centaur AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) Say It Again AS-2518-81 (Reverb), Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - SCR Lamp Flasher AS-2518-67, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 E-122-142
Elektra AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 E-122-142
Fathom AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 E-122-142
Medusa AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61A (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 E-122-142
Vector AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68, Auxiliary Driver - Triac Lamp Flasher AS-2518-82 E-122-142
Rapid Fire AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) Ball Delivery Sensor & Motor Board AS-2518-102 E-122-142
Mr. & Mrs. Pacman AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 E-122-161
Speakeasy AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 E-122-142
Spectrum AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) Uses a second AS-2518-23 for lamps (2 total in game), Auxiliary Driver - SCR Lamp Flasher AS-2518-67, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 E-122-142
Baby Pac-Man AS-2518-133 AS-2518-132 AS-2518-107 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) n/a Vidiot AS-2518-121 AS-3071-12
Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61 (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66
Game Title MPU Power Supply Lamp driver Sound Additional Boards Transformer
BMX AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-51 Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 E-122-161
Grand Slam AS-2518-133 AS-2518-151 AS-2518-147 (combo lamp driver/solenoid driver/regulator) AS-2518-51 ?
Centaur II AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61B (Squawk & Talk) Say It Again AS-2518-81 (Reverb), Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43, Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 E-122-142
Goldball AS-2518-133 AS-2518-151 AS-2518-147 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) AS-2518-51 Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 E-122-170
Eight Ball Deluxe Classic AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 AS-2518-61 (Squawk & Talk) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-52 ?
Granny and the Gators AS-2518-133 AS-2518-132 AS-2518-107 (combo lamp and solenoid driver) M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) Vidiot Deluxe A062-91600-D000 AS-3071-12
X's & O's AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 E-122-142
Kings of Steel AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 E-122-142
Black Pyramid AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 E-122-142
Spy Hunter AS-2518-35 AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43, Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher AS-2518-68 E-122-142
Fireball Classic AS-2518-35 † AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) Solenoid Expander AS-2518-66 AA40-0037-0000
Cybernaut AS-2518-35 ‡ AS-2518-54 AS-2518-23 M-051-00114-B045 (Cheap Squeak) Auxiliary Lamp Driver AS-2518-43 ?

*Note: Part of the AS-2877 POWER TRANSFORMER MODULE which has the AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board Assembly mounted directly onto the transformer using a bracket. Later games had the AS-2877-1 POWER TRANSFORMER MODULE which had a large metal plate onto which both the transformer and AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board Assembly were mounted. See Inside Backbox photo on the Internet Pinball Database page of Freedom for an example of AS-2877. See also Page 4 of the Bally 1979 Parts Catalog.


† Note: Fireball Classic was sometimes fitted with a 6802 MPU board (an upgrade from the -35 board)


‡ Note: Cybernaut was sometimes fitted with a 6802 MPU board (an upgrade from the -35 board), or a 6803 MPU board.

2.2 Stern

Game Title MPU Power Supply Lamp driver Sound Transformer Notes
Pinball M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 Chimes 16B-3
Stingray M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 Chimes 16B-3
Stars M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 Chimes 16B-3
Memory Lane M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 Chimes 16B-3
Lectronamo M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-100 16B-3
Wild Fyre M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-100 16B-3
Nugent M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-100 16B-3
Dracula M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-100 16B-3
Trident M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-100 16B-3
Hot Hand M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-100 16B-3
Magic M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-100 16B-3
Cosmic Princess M-100 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-100 16B-3
Game Title MPU Power Supply Lamp driver Sound Transformer Notes
Meteor M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6
Galaxy M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Uses relay to turn on / off general illumination
Ali M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Uses relay to turn on / off general illumination
Big Game M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 First Stern 7 digit game, widebody
Seawitch M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6
Cheetah M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 First stern game using plastic pop bumper rod and ring, widebody
Quicksilver M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6
Stargazer M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6
Nine Ball M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6
Iron Maiden M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Widebody. Uses IM-100 flash lamp board.
Viper M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Widebody
Dragonfist M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6
Cue M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6
Flight 2000 M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Uses voice module VSU-100, widebody
Freefall M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Uses voice module VSU-100, widebody
Lightning M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Uses voice module VSU-100, uses interface board for bonus display in playfield
Split Second M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Uses voice module VSU-100, widebody
Catacomb M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Uses voice module VSU-100
Orbitor 1 M-200 TA-100 LDU-100 SB-300 16B-6 Uses voice module VSU-100, widebody

3 Technical Info

3.1 The Bally / Stern Board Set

The Bally/Stern boardsets always consist of a rectifier board, a solenoid driver/power regulator board, a lamp driver board, and an mpu board. These boards utilize the Motorola 6800 series of microprocessors, 2 peripheral interface adapter chips (6821 PIAs), a switch matrix, multiplexed gas plasma displays, and direct driving of lamps and solenoids (no matrix). Lamps are switched on near the zero crossing 120 times a second to prevent premature lamp filament burnout.

Additional boards present in games may include various flavors of sound boards, as well as additional lamp driver boards (both main and auxiliary), solenoid expander boards, specialized boards such as an echo (say-it-again) board, and speech boards.

The software utilized in these games is very similar to one another, consisting of an "operating system" and a "game rom"; Bally utilized a masked rom for their OS over several games, enabling many roms to be ordered at one time for lower manufacturing cost. Stern custom compiled their operating system for each game, although some games have the same exact rom codes, differing switches in each of those affected games perform different functions although the rulesets are the same/very similar to one another.

Starting with the Stern Mpu-200 series of games (Meteor, 1979), Stern utilized a state machine architecture, where the core operating system handles the various housekeeping functions (displays, switch reading, memory management, lamps/solenoid driving, etc.) and the state layer handles things like game rules and timing of lamp and sound effects. This enabled the programmers to concentrate on defining their rulesets and lamp effects instead of tweaking timing within the assembly code itself. The state machine is multi-threaded and is able to execute up to 16 threads at one time.

Bally games continued to use a real-time setup, where all functions are coded in 6800 assembly language, necessitating lots of additions to the operating system over the years to enable more sophisticated light and sound effects/choreography. Contemporaries of Bally (Gottlieb, Stern, and Williams) all switched to the state machine architecture at some point in their solid state eras. The coding speed advantage of the state machine enabled more rapid development of software, a distinct advantage when production runs started to become shorter and shorter.

3.2 Recommended Documentation

3.2.1 Manuals & Schematics

Schematics for each game are essential in tracing down connections to lamps, switches, and solenoids. The owner's manual is a handy resource to have for dip switch settings as well as audit information.

The early -17 Bally games as well as the early stern mpu-100 games have both an owner's manual and a separate schematic package available. If buying documentation on ebay or the like, be sure to check with the seller to see what is included. Most documentation is also available via ipdb.org although the quality of some of the scans make it difficult to extract the needed information. Be aware that although rare, some factory documentation contains errors in schematics as well as game descriptions and settings.

3.2.1.1 Documentation Errors/Addendums
3.2.1.1.1 Schematic Errors with Stern MPU-200 MPU
  • MPU-200 Schematic Errors
  • Modified schematics showing the TP3 and R16 errors
  • Modified schematics showing the actual path of U17 pin 10
  • Factory jumper installed on a Stern MPU-200 board. This ties U17 pin 10 to U15 pin 3 and pin 25 of both U10 and U11.

There are two TP1s noted on the schematics. The upper TP1 (noted as 21.5vdc pulsating) should be TP3.

There are two R18 resistors noted in the "zero crossing detector" cited at the top left of the page. The lower resistor should be R16 and the upper resistor should be R18.

U18 pin 6 SHOULD NOT connect to U17 pin 10, nor should U19 pin 13 as drawn in the schematics.

U17 pin 10 should go to U15 pin 3, U10 and U11 pin 25, U7 pins 10 and 13, and to E37 and E38, which are tied together without a jumper.

The signal going to U17 pin 10 is VUA 02', not VUA as the schematics state.

It has been noted in online forums that some MPU-200s have the trace cut between U18 pin 6 and U17 pin 10, and a jumper installed from U17 pin 10 to a via located to the right of U17. This ties U17 pin 10 to U10 pin 25, as it should be. A picture of the factory jumper installed is above, however, the cut trace could not be found in this instance.

3.2.1.1.2 Stern Transformer Schematics
  • On the 16B-6 transformer schematics, the transformer voltage for lugs 2/4/6 is omitted. It should be noted as 49VAC, like in the schematics for the earlier 16B-3 transformer.
Stern 16B-6 transformer schematics omission


3.2.1.1.3 Game Manual Errors/Updates

3.2.2 Introduction to Pinball

Bally produced a series of "Introduction to Flipper Games" guides that included the basics of pinball machines.

Guide Cover Source Notes
Introduction to Bally Flipper Games, Revised June 1981
Introduction-to-bally-flipper-games revised-june-1981-cover.jpg
Introduction to Bally Midway Flipper Games, Revised July 1983
Introduction-to-bally-flipper-games revised-july-1983-cover.jpg
PDF

3.2.3 Theory of Operation & Repair Guides

Less important but still handy are the Bally Theory of Operation manual and the Repair Manuals.

The repair manuals are written with the use of test boards called AID1 and AID2 in mind (essentially a specialized logic probe), but can still have some helpful troubleshooting steps outlined. The latest revision of a repair manual normally supersedes all other previous repair manual revisions.

Guide Cover Source Notes
Bally Electronic Pinball Games Theory of Operation FO 601-2
Bally-theory-fo601-2-cover.jpg
PDF Supersedes Theory of Operation guides FO 601 and 601-1.
Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures FO 560-3
Bally-repair-fo560-3-cover.jpg
PDF Supersedes repair guides FO 511, FO 512, FO 513, FO 560, FO 560-1, and 560-2.
Theory of Operation - Stern's Microprocessor Controlled Solid State Games (1979)
Stern-theory-of-operation-book-1979-cover.jpg
PDF Applicable to Stern MPU-100 games from 1977-1979: Pinball, Stingray, Stars, Memory Lane, Lectronamo, Wild Fyre, Nugent, Dracula, Trident, Hot Hand, Magic.
3.2.3.1 Individual Guides

3.2.4 Parts Catalogs

Parts catalogs can also be useful, which include part numbers (helpful for purchasing parts online), exploded views of assemblies (helpful to see how the assemblies are put together), and board layouts & parts lists, and diagrams for controlled lamp, solenoid, and rubber locations. Online copies of Bally parts catalogs can be found on Planetary Pinball.

Manufacturer Catalog Cover Source Games Notes
Bally 1979 Parts Catalog
Bally-1979-parts-catalog-cover.jpg
Viewer PDF Freedom, Night Rider, Black Jack, Mata Hari, Evil Knievel, Eight Ball, Lost World, Power Play, Strikes & Spares, Six Million Dollar Man
Bally 1979-1 Parts Catalog
Bally-1979-1-parts-catalog-cover.jpg
Viewer PDF Playboy, Supersonic, Star Trek, Kiss, Paragon
Bally 1980 Parts Catalog
Bally-1980-parts-catalog-cover.jpg
Viewer PDF Harlem Globetrotters, Dolly Parton, Future Spa, Nitro Groundshaker, Silverball Mania, Rolling Stones, Space Invaders
Bally 1980-1 Parts Catalog
Bally-1980-1-parts-catalog-cover.jpg
Viewer PDF Mystic, Hotdoggin', Viking, Skateball, Frontier, Xenon, Flash Gordon
Bally 1981 Parts Catalog
Bally-1981-parts-catalog-cover.jpg
Viewer PDF Eight Ball Deluxe, Fireball II, Embryon, Fathom, Medusa, Centaur Note: Even though the parts catalog states otherwise, Fathom does use the sound board EE jumpers
Bally 1982 Parts Catalog
Bally-1982-parts-catalog-cover.jpg
Viewer PDF Elektra, Vector, Rapid Fire, Mr. & Mrs. Pac Man, Spectrum, Speakeasy, BMX Note: Even though the parts catalog states otherwise, Fathom does use the sound board EE jumpers


Stern General Parts Book
Stern-general-parts-book-cover.jpg
Stern Parts Catalog (1979)
Stern-70s-parts-catalog-cover.jpg
PDF Pinball, Stingray, Stars, Memory Lane, Lectronamo, Wild Fyre, Nugent, Dracula, Trident, Hot Hand Service bulletins, diagnostic information, playfield parts, circuit board layouts & parts lists. Does not contain any playfield layout diagrams.
Stern 1981 Parts Catalog
Stern-1981-parts-catalog-cover.jpg
PDF Pinball, Stingray, Stars, Memory Lane, Lectronamo, Wild Fyre, Nugent, Dracula, Trident, Hot Hand, Meteor, Galaxy, Magic, Cheetah, Quicksilver, Ali, Big Game, Seawitch, Star Gazer, Flight 2000, Nine Ball, Freefall, Lightning Includes playfield parts, but no board information or schematics. Includes information, parts lists, and diagrams for Stern video games.

Note: Baby Pacman and Granny & The Gators do not specifically appear in the pinball parts catalogs, but many of the same parts are used on the playfield. The game specific manuals and the Vidiot and Vidiot Deluxe theory of operation manuals for each game will need to be referred in most cases for information about each game.

3.2.5 Service Bulletins

Service bulletins detailed any problems or issues with games that were discovered after they were released.

Service Bulletin Books

Manufacturer Version Cover Source Games Notes
Bally Service Bulletins, August 1978
Bally-service-bulletin-book-1978-cover.png
PDF Black Jack, Eight Ball, Evel Knievel, KISS, Lost World, Mata Hari, Night Rider, Paragon, Playboy, Power Play, Six Million Dollar Man, Skateball, Star Trek, Strikes and Spares, Supersonic, Voltan
Bally Service Bulletin Book, 1987
Bally-service-bulletin-book-1987-cover.png
PDF Kings of Steel, Spy Hunter, Fireball Classic, Cybernaut Also contains some early Bally 6803 games


Individual Service Bulletins

Note: Stern Electronics service bulletins 1 through 16 can be found in the 1979 Stern Parts Catalog.

Manufacturer Service Bulletin Date Game(s) Summary Notes
Stern 15 1979 All Games (General) Solid State Digit Display Repair Procedures
Stern 23 1980-12-02 Flight 2000 Flight 2000 breaking flipper return plastic Fix: Insert metal bar under return plastic

3.3 The Wiring Color Code

The Bally color coding system is a carry over from the EM era. Either one color or a two color code is used for every wire. The first number is the wire's insulation color, while the second number is the trace color, if one is used. The traces on the wire can either be dashes or stripes. Either type of marking has the same coding designation. An example of a wire with the code 15, would be a red wire with a white trace. A black wire with no trace would be code 80. If a wire color is used more than once, a "-" and the "nth" time the color is used is added as a suffix to the color code. An example of this is a red wire with white traces used a second time. The code for the wire would be 15-1.

Conversely, Stern never adopted a color coding system. Instead, the wire color was marked accordingly in the associated documentation, (ie. a white wire with a blue trace is referred to as W-BLU, red with yellow is R-Y, black is just B, etc.).

Below is the Bally color chart.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 Jumper
Color
 Red 
 Blue 
 Yellow 
 Green 
 White 
 Brown 
 Orange 
 Black 
 Gray 
 No Trace 
 Jumper 

3.4 Connector Designations

All Bally / Stern machines have a common naming convention for all of the connectors in the game. A specific connection uses two parts - a prefix and a suffix. The prefix is the board number, and the suffix is the connection on the board. When referencing a specific connector pin within a housing, a dash follows the connection number. For example, the connector pin for the coin door self test switch signal on the CPU board is A4J3-1. A single connection, in this case the key on a display, for the player 2 display would be 2A1-14. The same connection on a player 3 display would be 3A1-14.

The following boards are assigned the same numbers throughout Bally / Stern games.

  • Lamp Driver Board - A5
  • MPU Board - A4
  • Solenoid Driver Board - A3
  • Transformer Module / Rectifier Board - A2
  • Displays - A1


3.5 Switch Matrix

Bally / Stern 5 x 8 Switch Matrix






The Bally / Stern switch matrix is a 5 x 8 matrix consisting of a maximum of 40 switches. There are a total of 5 switch strobes (columns), (starting with 0, ending with 4), and 8 switch returns (rows), (starting with 0, ending with 7). The numbering convention for the switches is to start at 01, increase by 1 in the same strobe, and continue consecutively to 40. To isolate the switches, a 1N4004 diode, or in some cases a 1N4148 diode, is placed across the switch itself. Not every switch in the matrix is used on every Bally / Stern game.

Although rare, Bally did add a 6th strobe (strobe 5) for some games, such as Centaur, Fathom, Medusa and Spectrum.

Connections for the switch matrix originate from the two connectors located on the right side of the CPU board. Connector A4J3 is used for all the switches on the coin door, the ball roll tilt, and the pendulum tilt. While connector A4J2 is for all of the switches on the playfield.

Strobe 0

(A4J2-1 / A4J3-2)

 Strobe 1

(A4J2-2 / A4J3-3)

 Strobe 2

(A4J2-3)

 Strobe 3

(A4J2-4)

 Strobe 4

(A4J2-5)

Strobe 5 (When Used)

(A4J4-5)

Return 0 (A4J2-8 / A4J3-9)
 01
 09
 17
 25
 33
 41
Return 1 (A4J2-9 / A4J3-10)
 02
 10
 18
 26
 34
 42
Return 2 (A4J2-10 / A4J3-11)
 03
 11
 19
 27
 35
 43
Return 3 (A4J2-11 / A4J3-12) 04
 12
 20
 28
 36
 44
Return 4 (A4J2-12 / A4J3-13)
 05
 13
 21
 29
 37
 45
Return 5 (A4J2-13 / A4J3-14)
 06
 14
 22
 30
 38
 46
Return 6 (A4J2-14 / A4J3-15)
 07
 15
 23
 31
 39
 47
Return 7 (A4J2-15 / A4J3-16)
 08
 16
 24
 32
 40
 48

It is worth mentioning that the self test switch, which is located on the inside of the coin door and used to enter tests, audits, and bookkeeping, is not part of the switch matrix. A single signal is sent to the self test switch from the U10 PIA on the CPU board via connection A4J3-1, and returned to ground via a connection A3J2-7 on the solenoid driver board.

Also, the switch commonly referred to as "switch 33" on a Bally or Stern CPU board, and used to reset audits and bookkeeping, is not part of the switch matrix either. This switch receives a signal from the 6800 CPU chip, and when closed, sends the signal to ground. Starting with the first MPU-200 Stern game, Meteor, Stern added a second switch to the inside of the coin door to serve the purpose of remotely resetting audits and bookkeeping. The signal for this secondary switch is tied to the input line of switch 33, and leaves the CPU board via connection A4J3-5. Its return line is sent to ground via a daisy-chained lead to the self test switch.

3.6 Bally and Stern MPU Boards

  • Bally AS-2518-17 MPU Board

  • Bally AS-2518-35 MPU Board

  • Bally 6802 MPU Board (A080-91638-D000). Note alkaline corrosion abatement and addition of "SuperCap" to retain CMOS memory

  • Stern M-100 MPU Board

  • Stern M-200 MPU Board

All Bally and Stern MPU boards are built around the Motorola 6800 series CPU chip and 6820 or 6821 peripheral interface adapters (PIAs).

In most cases, if a Bally MPU board has taken a bad hit from alkali damage, the bottom right corner of the board typically takes a hit. Unfortunately, the bottom right corner of the board is also the location where the board number is stenciled onto the masking. If the masking has delaminated, it will take the stenciled board number information with it. At this point, it would be difficult to determine what board it actually is.

32 pins at J5 of a -17 MPU
33 pins at J5 of a -35 MPU

However, there is a quick and easy way to determine whether the board is either a -17 or -35. Simply look at the J5 header pin connection located at the top center of the board. If there are only 32 pins (including one empty key) at the connection, the board is a -17. If there are 33 pins (including one empty key) at this connection, the board is a -35.

The Bally 6802 MPU board was only found in two games (Fireball Classic and Cybernaut) and in small quantities before the introduction of 6803 games. Some specifics of the 6802 board can be found here.

3.6.1 Bally -35/Stern MPU-200 Parts Bill of Materials and Part Placement Chart

Bally -35/Stern MPU-200 Parts Bill of Materials


Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a .pdf file detailing the part location and complete bill of materials for Bally -35 and Stern MPU-200 MPU boards. The original parts "skeleton layout" and BOM was done by Ed at Great Plains Electronics.

3.7 Transformers

Manufacturer Part Number Power Transformer Module Rectifier Board Assembly Winding 1 Winding 2 Winding 3 Winding 4 Winding 5
Bally E-122-125 AS-2877, AS2877-1 AS-2518-18 49VAC 173VAC 7.3VAC 7.8VAC 12VAC
Bally E-122-131 AS-2877-3 AS-2518-49 49VAC 173VAC 7.3VAC 9.2VAC 12VAC
Bally E-122-141 / AS-3071-2 AS-2877-6 AS-2518-54 49VAC 170VAC 6.5VAC 8.2VAC 14.2VAC
Bally E-122-142 / AS-3071-2 AS-2877-6 AS-2518-54 49VAC 170VAC 6.5VAC 9.4VAC 14.2VAC
Bally E-122-170 / AS-3071-15 ‡ AS-2877-13 ‡ AS-2518-151 ‡ 49VAC 170VAC 8.5VAC 20V CT † 14.2VAC
Bally AS-3071-12 § AS-2877-11 § AS-2518-132 §
Manufacturer Part Number Rectifier Board Assembly Lugs 2/4/6 Lugs 8/10 Lugs 13/14 Lugs 15/16 Lugs 17/18
Stern 16B-3 TA-100 49VAC 173VAC 7.8VAC 12VAC 7.3VAC
Stern 16B-6 TA-100 49VAC 173VAC 7.8VAC 12VAC 7.3VAC

† Center Tapped
‡ Goldball and Grand Slam only.
§ Baby Pacman and Granny & The Gators only

3.8 Rectifier Boards

The rectifier board is the first part of the power train in any Bally or Stern machine. In addition to rectifying four discrete AC voltages to DC, the rectifier board consists of the bulk of fuses for the game, including the main fuse. After all associated voltages are fused, the power is dispersed to the backbox, playfield, and lower cabinet.

There are two revisions of the AS-2518-54 rectifier board. The first revision has 5 fuses. Revision "B" has an additional fuse. On revision B, two fuses are used for the general illumination instead of just one fuse. One fuse is for the GI on the playfield, and the second fuse for the GI in the backbox. The AS-2518-132 rectifier board (used only in Baby Pac-Man and Granny & The Gators) is based on the AS-2518-54 revision B board.

The AS-2518-132 rectifier board is only used in Bally's two hybrid games--Baby Pac-Man and Granny & The Gators. The AS-2518-132 board backwards compatible with the AS-2518-54 board. However, in order to use a standard AS-2518-54 board in a hybrid game, the rectifier diodes at CR5, CR6, CR7, and CR8 need to be upgraded from the stock 3 Amp diodes to 6 Amp diodes.

  • Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board

  • Bally AS-2518-49 rectifier board

  • Bally AS-2518-54 Rectifier Board

  • Bally AS-2518-54 Revision B Rectifier Board. Two fuses are used for the general illumination instead of one (the GI for the playfield and the GI for the backbox)

  • Bally AS-2518-132 Rectifier Board. Only used in Baby Pacman and Granny & The Gators.

  • Bally AS-2518-151 Rectifier Board


  • Early Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board

  • Later Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board

  • Later Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board (blank)



3.8.1 How To Hook Up a Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board

Often folks buy a new or used rectifier board and then when they get it, they realize that they have to hook it back up to the old wiring harness. If this is you, and you forgot to take notes or pictures before you removed your old board, then here you go. The photo below shows an original AS-2518-18 rectifier board connected to a factory wiring harness. As far as I know, the wire colors are the same for ALL AS-2518-18 applications.

Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board (Solder Side)
Board Connection Wire Color / Gauge Transformer Lug Circuit
E1 Red 18 AWG 5 Primary AC Hot
E2 Yellow 18 AWG 1 Primary Neutral
E3 Red 20 AWG 2 Solenoid Bus Hot
E4 White/Red 20 AWG 6 Solenoid Bus Neutral
E5 Green 20 AWG 8 Display High Voltage Hot
E6 White/Green 20 AWG 10 Display High Voltage Neutral
E7 Blue 18 AWG (2 wires) 17 GI Bus Hot
E8 Black 18 AWG (2 wires) 18 GI Bus Neutral
E9 Orange 18 AWG 13 Controlled Lamp Bus Hot
E10 Green 18 AWG 14 Controlled Lamp Bus Neutral
E11 White 20 AWG 15 12V Input for 5-Volt Regulator Hot
E12 White/Black 20 AWG 16 12V Input for 5-Volt Regulator Neutral


AWG = American Wire Gauge (18 = fat, 20 = skinny)

"E" solder pads are labeled on the top side of the circuit board

3.8.2 How To Hook Up a Stern TA-100 Rectifier Board

Stern TA-100 Rectifier Wire Color connections





As mentioned above when you replace or remove and reattach your rectifier board you need to know how to hook it back up. I have done this with a lot of Stern pins and made myself a chart for quick and easy reference when re-attaching the rectifier to the transformer. I figured it may be useful to others as well.

3.8.3 How To Properly Mount a Bally AS-2518-54 Rectifier Board

Bally AS-2518-54 Rectifier Board
Bally AS-2518-54 Rectifier Board (back)



The Bally AS-2518-54 rectifier board normally mounts on a large metal plate found in the bottom of the pinball machine’s cabinet. It uses the metal plate as a heat sink for the two large bridge rectifiers on the underside of the board, so mounting it properly is important. Carefully following the steps illustrated below will ensure the board is correctly mounted for long term reliability.

  • Mounting a Bally -54 rectifier board
  • Locate the two mounting holes for the bridge rectifiers, circled in red, and the seven mounting holes for the circuit board, circled in yellow.
  • Practice laying the board in the proper position once, so you’re sure you know where it goes. You want the two holes that go through the bridge rectifiers to line up with the holes in the plate. Also make sure the mounting screws around the edge of the board are lining up with their holes too.
  • Prep the surface of the mounting plate by cleaning the area, where the two bridges will mount, with some alcohol or acetone.
  • Make a circle of heat sink grease around each bridge mounting screw hole approximately the diameter of a dime. Heatsink grease is available from most all the popular vendors.
  • Carefully place the rectifier board in back on the mounting board. You want to get the board positioned as best as you can without moving it around a lot or you will smear the heat sink grease all over the place. What I like to do is peek through one of the two mount holes on the board and locate the corresponding screw hole on the plate. Then as you peek through this hole, guide the board into place while keeping the screw hole in sight.
  • Double check your work, being careful not to move the board around too much. To avoid smearing the heat sink grease, it’s best if you can place it directly into the proper position the first time, without having to scoot it around afterwards.
  • Next, start the two mounting screws that go through the bridge rectifiers, but do not tighten them all the way.
  • Now locate and install the remaining seven mounting screws along the perimeter of the board, but don’t tighten them all the way yet. Since all the screws are a little loose, you have a little bit of board movement available to help locate the mounting screw holes on the plate.
  • Once all the perimeter screws are in place, tighten the two bridge rectifier screws. You want them nice and tight so it spreads the heat sink grease into a nice, evenly spread thin layer. Just be careful that you don’t strip the threads out of the mounting holes. Then tighten up the perimeter screws after that.
    All done!
  • One word of warning: The mounting screws protrude way past the bottom of the board, so be careful where you place this assembly. The screws may scratch your workspace (a nice table, countertop, etc.).


3.8.4 Pinout for Rectifier Board Connectors J1, J2, J3

Diagram originally authored by PinSider Quench. Used by permission.
Diagram originally authored by PinSider Quench. Used by permission.



A frequently asked question when working on Bally and Stern rectifier boards is, "can someone post a picture of their wiring"?

These diagrams provide the wire colors and locations for Bally (left) and Stern (right) rectifier boards.

The original diagrams, plus an addendum regarding Bally Kiss, Space Invaders, and Future Spa (which used the AS-2518-49 rectifier board) can be found in the PinSide thread here.

Note: Wire gauge is also indicated in each diagram. Thicker wires (for GI for example) are drawn thicker.

3.9 Bally and Stern Solenoid Driver Board

Bally AS-2518-16 Solenoid Driver/Regulator
Bally AS-2518-22 Solenoid Driver/Regulator
Stern SDU-100 Solenoid Driver/Regulator
Another style of the Stern SDU-100 Solenoid Driver/Regulator (Revision B)

First of all, everything mentioned in the following sections specifically reference the Bally AS-2518-22 solenoid driver board, found in most Bally pins from 1977 through 1985. Since the Bally AS-2518-16 and Stern SDU-100 boards are very similar, and all are identical as far as the operation of the solenoid driver circuits, the information is applicable to these boards as well. The main differences between Bally and Stern solenoid driver boards used from the factory are the physical layout of parts, and whether or not the board is single-sided or double-sided. Since the physically connector locations are the same, Bally and Stern solenoid driver boards are similar enough to be interchangeable.

Secondly, if all this is Greek and you have no idea how decoder ICs work, or what a transistor is, take a look at the How Bally Coils are Driven for Dummies section to learn the basics of how things work.

Third, the solenoid driver board actually has three functions.

  1. Drive the solenoid and relay coils of a pinball machine.
  2. Regulate the logic voltage which provides a nice and steady +5VDC to the other boards for their various logic circuits.
  3. Regulate the high voltage (+190 VDC) for the display driver boards

The regulated voltage will not be discussed here, only the solenoid drive section.

Finally, don't forget that the Solenoid Driver board contains the high voltage circuitry for the displays. There is 190 volts DC here and if you're not careful, you'll get knocked on your butt. A shock from 190 volts DC will hurt. If you don't know what you're doing, stay away from it and have a professional fix it instead. In addition to high voltages, there are static sensitive parts on these boards. While working on boards, be sure to properly ground yourself before touching the board, and always work in a static-free workspace.

3.9.1 Stern Driver Board Revisions

There are several versions of the Stern SDU-100 driver board. Revision A is the most radically different than all the other versions, since it has a blue solder mask and hand-drawn traces. This revision can have either "Rev 1" or "Rev 2" printed on the board below the "SDU-100" label.

Revision B is marked as "B432" in the lower right hand corner. There is a lot of extra masking and labels on this board that are not seen on any other revisions.

Revision C is is marked as "Revision C" in the center of the board. A fuse was added for the high voltage section for the displays. However, this fuse was proven to be largely useless, and did not blow if there was a short in the high voltage section's regulation transistors.

The final revisions of the board lacked a fuse, but included a shutdown transistor in the high voltage section intended to cut the high voltage power if there is a short in this section (however, this is not always successful depending on where the short is). The later revisions went up to revision D, and possibly E or F, but this is currently unconfirmed.

  • SDU-100 Revision A (Rev 1 and Rev 2)

  • SDU-100 Revision B (B432)

  • SDU-100 Revision C

  • SDU-100 Revision D/E/F?


3.9.2 How Bally Coils are Driven for Dummies

Typical Bally Coil (Mata Hari)


There are three main characteristics regarding the coils and coil connections in Bally games.

  • Two large gauge yellow wires going to one lug (mostly two wires as the wire is "daisy chained" from coil to coil).
  • One small gauge wire going to the other lug.
  • A diode soldered across the two lugs, with the "banded" end of the diode facing the yellow wires (power).

The majority of information in this section is applicable to Stern games too. Bally and Stern solenoid driver boards are similar enough in overall design for them to interchange between games / manufacturers. The only other primary difference between Bally and Stern is the wire color of the solenoid bus line in most cases.

One lug on every coil is connected via a parallel circuit by the fatter wires. This type of connection is also commonly referred to as a daisy-chained circuit. These fat wires supply each coil with positive 43 volts DC (+43VDC), so each coil is connected to the +43VDC bus. Most have two fat wires, but some may only have one. Flipper coils have these wires too, but they are connected a little differently, and are discussed elsewhere. For now, just assume regular solenoids are being discussed here.

Each coil has a small skinny wire on the other lug. This wire goes to the control circuits on the solenoid driver board. In order to energize the coil, there must be a path to ground for the +43VDC. In its at rest state, the coil does not have a path to ground. When the small skinny wire gets connected to ground, the path is complete and current will flow. This current flow turns the coil into an electro-magnet, which then pulls the plunger into the coil. When the wire is disconnected from ground, current flow stops, the electro-magnet is turned off, and the plunger returns to it's normal position with help from either a spring or gravity.

Finally, there is a diode on each coil. When the current is quickly turned off on an energized coil, the magnetic field around the coil collapses quickly. This action causes the coil to generate a huge voltage spike. The job of the diode is to prevent the majority of this spike from reaching the solenoid driver circuity. If the diode is bad (shorted) or installed backwards, the drive transistor will be destroyed the very first time the coil is energized, then released. The process is similar to the ignition system used in older cars. When the points open, the 12 volts is removed from the car's coil quickly, which causes another coil to generate a huge voltage spike to the spark plug.

Comparison of Electrical Sine Waves


The computer program that runs the machine also tries to limit this spike by turning off the coil near the zero crossing of the AC line. This helps because the DC that drives the coils is rectified, but not filtered, so it's not smooth DC, but "humpy", as shown in the adjacent picture.

By energizing the coils just after the zero crossing, the in-rush of current caused by a coil is limited. By turning the coils off just after the zero crossing, the voltage spike caused by the collapsing field is also kept to a minimum.

Depiction of Multiple Coils in a Bally Game with Manual Switches Inserted and tied to Ground



So, in the simplest form, the solenoid driver circuits in a Bally game look like what is shown in the accompanying pic. Look at it as a bunch of coils all connected to the +43VDC bus, and the other lugs going to switches which are connected to ground. If a switch were to close, it would connect the circuit from +43VDC to ground, and the coil would energize as long as the switch is closed.

One Switch Closed and Energizing the Coil



See how the circuit is complete due to the switch being closed, and the coil is energized. When the switch is opened again, the coil turns off, and is returned to the same state as the previous picture. If the diode were not there, there would be a big arc across the switch contacts upon the moment they opened up.

Depiction of Multiple Coils in a Bally Game with Transistors Shown

Now, take this one step further, and replace the manual switches with transistors. Transistors are normally used as amplifiers, but you can also use them as switches too. There are 3 leads on a transistor, the base, the emitter, and the collector. For NPN transistors like the ones on the Bally solenoid driver, the emitter and collector can be used like a switch. With no current supplied to the base, there is no current flow between the collector and emitter - the transistor switch is open, or OFF. If current is supplied to the base, the current will then flow between the collector and emitter, so now the switch is closed, or ON.

Without getting into too much detail - what happens is a current is applied to the base which is high enough to 'saturate' the transistor. This means the collector-to-emitter current will be amplified as high as it can, and the transistor will then conduct a large amount of current from COLLECTOR to EMITTER, in relation to the current flow from the BASE to the EMITTER. This is how it acts like a switch. The base goes high to turn it on, and low to turn it off. Since the collector is connected to the wire that goes to the coil (the small single wire), and the emitter is connected to ground, turning the transistor has the effect of connecting the collector to ground. This completes the circuit to the coil and it turns on (fires).

A coil can be tested by momentarily grounding the tab on the coil's drive transistor. For the TIP-102 or similar transistors used in the Bally solenoid driver, the metal tab is connected to the collector. Knowing this, and what was just discussed, grounding the tab is the same as grounding the collector, which will complete the circuit to ground and fire the coil. However, this test only tests the wiring from the solenoid driver to the coil. It DOES NOT test the transistor itself or any circuitry before the transistor.

The transistor and "control signal" in the simplified drawing above can be replaced with the actual circuit. More details regarding this circuit are found in the following section.

3.9.3 Overview

Two circuit boards will be discussed: the MPU board (AS-2517-17 or -35) and the Solenoid Driver board (AS-2518-22 or -16). The solenoid driver gets signals from the MPU board. These signals tell the solenoid driver which solenoid to fire. Up to 15 momentary and 4 continuous solenoids can be controlled by the solenoid driver. The flipper solenoids are enabled or disabled from the solenoid driver too, but are not controlled like the other solenoids.

3.9.4 How the Solenoid Driver Works

The solenoid driver is responsible for energizing the solenoid coils of the pinball machine. Four signals from the U11 PIA integrated circuit on the MPU board travel out from the J4 to the J4 connector on the Solenoid Driver board. These four signals tell the Solenoid Driver which solenoid to fire. This is accomplished by using a decoder chip that takes the binary pattern of the four signals (16 different patterns) and decodes (or demultiplexes) them into one of sixteen different outputs. The four signals are applied to the decoder then the decoder is strobed. Normally, all sixteen of the decoder output lines are held high (+5vdc). When strobed, the decoder lowers one of it's sixteen output lines, depending on the pattern of the four input signals. Detailed info about the 74LS154 decoder chip is availalbe here.

Typical Solenoid Driver Circuit

With no input supplied (strobe is high), the output lines of the decoder are high (+5 vdc). This puts a voltage at the base of Q1 (this transistor is one of seven in the CA3081 transistor array chip). This turns Q1 "on" and the voltage supplied to it's collector via resistor R1 passes through the transistor to ground. At this point, little or no voltage is present at the base of Q2, and Q2 is "off". With Q2 off, the 40vdc at the coil has no place to go, and the coil remains deenergized.

When the MPU board supplies the proper input signals (A-B-C-D) to the decoder, and the decoder is strobed (signal drops to low), the proper output signal will go low, which turns Q1 "off" (notice one of the two strobe lines goes to ground, so it's always low). This allows the +5vdc at Q1's collector to flow through the diode instead of Q1 on it's way to ground via resistor R3. This also puts a voltage at the base of Q2 and turns this transistor "on". When Q2 turns on, the 40vdc at the solenoid now has a path to ground through Q2 and current flows through the coil, thereby energizing it. Then the strobe to the decoder is released, the decoder output goes high again, Q1 turns on, Q2 turns off, and everything is back to normal.

Diode D1, resistor R3 and capacitor C1 work to slow the speed at which Q2 and the solenoid are able to turn off. This is important to prevent the "inductive kick" voltage that builds up when you try to turn off a solenoid quickly. A solenoid coil can build up hundreds of volts if it is switched off too quickly. For example, the spark in the spark plug of a car is generated from this inductive kick when the ignition coil is turned off quickly. In this case, D1 allows Q2 and the solenoid to turn ON quickly (which is OK) because the current that used to be flowing through Q1 can now flow forward through D1 and turn on Q2 quickly. However, when the decoder output goes back to high and Q1 turns back on, D1 prevents the charge from the base of Q2 from being sucked down Q1. The charge on C1 must drain off (slowly) through R3 and the base of Q2. This takes awhile and slows the turn-off of Q2 and the solenoid COIL, thus reducing the kick. Also, as the solenoid turns off and the voltage on the collector of Q2 starts to rise, this voltage is "fed back" by C1 to the base of Q2 and tends to keep Q2 on a little longer, slowing the turn-off of the solenoid even more. The OTHER diode (D2, across the solenoid) works to absorb the solenoid's turn-off kick by conducting when the voltage on the collector of Q2 is greater than about 40 volts.

3.10 Lamp Driver Board

Bally and Stern controlled lamps are driven discretely via SCRs located on the lamp driver board. Because of this, neither manufacturer utilizes a lamp matrix. Any variation of the lamp driver boards are capable of controlling a maximum of 60 discrete lamp circuits. Typically the 2N5060 SCRs can only control one lamp, while the MCR106 / SCR106 / C106 SCRs can control up to two lamps.

The first generation of both the Stern and Bally lamp driver boards has 4050 hex buffer chips installed between the 4514s and the MCR106 SCRs. It is unknown why both companies chose to remove these chips from later designs.

  • Bally Lamp Driver Boards
  • AS-2518-14, Rev. 2
  • AS-2518-23
  • AS-2518-23, Rev. 1
  • AS-2518-23, A000
  • AS-2518-23, A000, no header pin carriers
  • AS-2518-23, A000, with pins removed for replacement
  • AS-2518-23, A000, "pins only", replaced


  • Stern Lamp Driver Boards
  • LDA-100
  • LDA-100 Rev. B
  • LDA-100 Rev. C


3.10.1 Lamp Driver Board Connector / SCR Mapping

SCR Connector Wire Color Code Wire Color SCR Type
Q10 J1-15 13 Red-Yel MCR-106
Q22 J1-10 32 Yel-Blu MCR-106
Q37 J3-23 98 Gry-Blk 2N5060
Q60 J3-03 81 Blk-Red 2N5060
Q11 J1-16 12 Red-Blu 2N5060
Q26 J1-07 34 Yel-Grn 2N5060
Q32 J3-27 40 Grn 2N5060
Q54 J3-11 20 Blu MCR-106
Q49 J3-17 27 Blu-Orn MCR-106
Q06 J2-14 12 Red-Blu 2N5060
Q19 J2-15 32 Yel-Blu 2N5060
Q31 J2-02 20 Blu 2N5060
Q45 J2-01 60 Brn 2N5060
Q16 J2-22 62 Brn-Blu MCR-106
Q14 J1-18 58 Wht-Blk 2N5060
Q29 J1-01 41 Grn-Red 2N5060
Q36 J3-26 38 Yel-Blk 2N5060
Q57 J3-01 10 Red 2N5060
Q12 J1-19 60 Brn 2N5060
Q27 J1-09 52 Wht-Blu 2N5060
Q38 J3-25 36 Yel-Brn 2N5060
Q50 J3-12 21 Blu-Red 2N5060
Q13 J1-17 57 Wht-Orn 2N5060
Q28 J1-08 51 Wht-Red 2N5060
Q44 J3-19 67 Brn-Orn 2N5060
Q53 J3-14 84 Blk-Grn 2N5060
Q39 J3-24 72 Orn-Blu 2N5060
Q21 J1-12 61 Brn-Red 2N5060
Q05 J2-16 34 Yel-Grn 2N5060
Q18 J2-20 35 Yel-Wht 2N5060
Q30 J2-06 85 Blk-Wht 2N5060
Q43 J2-07 91 Gry-Red 2N5060
Q52 J3-13 13 Red-Yel 2N5060
Q51 J3-15 53 Wht-Yel 2N5060
Q33 J2-11 95 Gry-Wht MCR-106
Q15 J2-23 97 Gry-Orn MCR-106
Q23 J2-08 93 Gry-Yel MCR-106
Q58 J3-02 95 Gry-Wht 2N5060
Q20 J1-13 96 Gry-Brn 2N5060
Q03 J2-21 47 Grn-Orn MCR-106
Q40 J3-22 23 Blu-Yel MCR-106
Q46 J3-18 56 Wht-Brn 2N5060
Q41 J3-20 64 Brn-Grn MCR-106
Q17 J1-11 65 Brn-Wht MCR-106
Q56 J3-10 91 Gry-Red MCR-106
Q42 J3-21 30 Yel MCR-106
Q47 J2-10 98 Gry-Blk MCR-106
Q09 J1-14 54 Wht-Grn MCR-106
Q34 J1-02 43 Grn-Yel MCR-106
Q08 J1-23 56 Wht-Brn MCR-106
Q01 J1-24 50 Wht MCR-106
Q02 J1-25 90 Gry MCR-106
Q07 J1-27 53 Wht-Yel 2N5060
Q04 J1-28 78 Orn-Blk 2N5060
Q35 J1-03 45 Grn-Wht MCR-106
Q24 J1-05 48 Grn-Blk MCR-106
Q25 J1-06 25 Blu-Wht 2N5060
Q48 J3-16 25 Blu-Wht MCR-106
Q59 J3-04 14 Red-Grn 2N5060
Q55 J3-09 15 Red-Wht MCR-106
Q23 J1-04 35 Yel-Wht MCR-106
Key J1-20 -- ---- Key
N/U J1-21 -- ---- N/U
N/U J1-22 -- ---- N/U
Q53 J2-03 84 Blk-Grn 2N5060
Q39 J2-04 72 Org-Blu 2N5060
Q52 J2-05 -- ---- 2N5060
Q21 J2-12 61 Brn-Red 2N5060
Q07 J2-13 53 Wht-Yel 2N5060
N/U J2-17 -- ---- N/U
Key J2-18 -- ---- Key
N/U J2-19 -- ---- N/U
N/U J3-05 -- ---- N/U
N/U J3-06 -- ---- N/U
N/U J3-07 -- ---- N/U
Key J3-08 -- ---- Key
N/U J3-28 -- ---- N/U
Q40 J2-09 -- ---- MCR-106
Q03 J1-26 91 Gry-Red MCR-106


3.11 Combination Solenoid / Lamp Driver Board

Two different solenoid driver boards were used in some later games. Both of these solenoid driver boards are a combination solenoid driver board, lamp driver board, and where the +5v regulation. The difference between the two in essence is one has a high voltage section for displays, while the other does not.

3.11.1 AS-2518-107 Combination Solenoid / Lamp Driver Board

Bally AS-2518-107 Combination Solenoid/Lamp Driver Board. This board integrates 5V regulation, along with lamp and coil drivers--all onto a single board.


The AS-2518-107 board was used only in two games: Baby Pac-Man and Granny and the Gators. The reason for its development is that both games are hybrid pinball / video games with smaller playing areas. Therefore, neither game needed all of the overhead that a standard pinball had, and there were less solenoids (10). Likewise, the lack of a high voltage section on this board is because these games use video monitors and did not have plasma displays. It appears that there is a lesser amount of lamp drivers (30) also, however, that total is deceiving. The difference between this board and the previous lamp driver boards is that previous boards had one SCR per lamp drive. This board controls two lamps (multiplexed) per lamp drive. And the lamp drives do not control two lamps simultaneously at any given time. This gives the board a total of 60 controlled lamps.


3.11.2 AS-2518-147 Combination Solenoid / Lamp Driver Board

Bally AS-2518-147 Combination Solenoid/Lamp Driver Board. This board integrates 5V and display voltage regulation, along with lamp and coil drivers--all onto a single board. The photo is of Revision B of this board.


The AS-2518-147 board was used only in two games: Gold Ball and Grand Slam. The reason for its development is assumed to be twofold. First, Bally was looking to cut costs, and this board would have done the job. Secondly, the board may have been used as a test transition between the now very old -35 boardset architecture and the next boardset (6803). The AS-2581-147 had a total of 11 solenoid drives. Likewise, there were what appeared to be less lamp drives (30). But, like the AS-2518-107 board, this board multiplexed the lamps. Again, two lamps can be controlled per lamp drive, but none of the lamp drives control two lamps simultaneously at any given time.

3.12 Vidiot Board

Bally AS-2518-121 Vidiot Board (Note that some chips have been pulled from their sockets on this board)
Bally Vidiot Deluxe Board (Note that this board has been refurbished)

Bally created two Hybrid video/pinball games, Granny and the Gators and Baby Pac-Man, which included a video game monitor and a pinball playfield. The Vidiot board is a special circuit board used to operate the video game portion and sounds of the hybrid games. However, each game used a slightly different Vidiot board. Baby Pacman used a "Vidiot Board", while Granny and the Gators used a "Vidot Deluxe Board". The two boards are not interchangeable.

3.13 Miscellaneous Boards

3.13.1 Solenoid Expander Board (AS-2518-66)

alternative text
Bally Solenoid Expander board- Arrow indicates necessary bulb


The Solenoid Expander board was used in several Bally games. Its purpose is to enable a particular coil or to multiplex several coils. It is typically driven by a lamp SCR on the lamp driver board versus a solenoid transistor on the solenoid driver board. However, at least Centaur and Centaur II are exceptions. Both games drive the solenoid expander board via the Q11 transistor on the solenoid driver board.

There is a 555 bulb near (or sometimes not so near) that lights when the solenoid expander is activated. This bulb is essential for proper operation of the expander as the main opto isolator chip (MOC3011) on the expander board needs a load to work. Neither Centaur nor Centaur II use this bulb.

3.13.2 Auxiliary Driver - GI Flasher (AS-2518-68)

Placeholder for Bally Auxiliary Driver Board


The auxiliary driver board is used on some Bally games to drive a triac, which in turn switches some of the general illumination on and off for effect. It is typically driven by a lamp SCR on the lamp driver board. The driven triac is typically located on a bracket which is attached to the rectifier board mounting plate in the bottom of the cabinet.

Much like the solenoid expander board, there is a 555 bulb near the auxiliary driver board that lights when the auxiliary driver board is activated. This bulb is essential for proper operation of the auxiliary driver, as the opto isolator chip (MOC3011) on the board needs a load to work.

3.13.3 Bally Strobe Board

The Bally strobe board was used on Flash Gordon. A small transformer in the cabinet bottom provides the voltage required for this board. That power is fused by an "in-line" fuse at the small transformer.

There isn't much to go wrong with this board as it's comprised of a few diodes and resistors. Other than replacing the actual strobe lamp and the "trigger" transformer, parts are easy to find. Some folks have been successful using a strobe lamp acquired from Radio Shack. A source for the trigger transformer is unknown.

The trigger transformer should measure about 32 ohms between the pins marked 1 and 2, and about .2 ohms between the pins marked 3 and 4.

If your strobe is producing a very weak strobe, or not working at all, test the two 22uf/250V electrolytic capacitors. Simply replacing out of spec capacitors may bring the strobe back to life.

Another area for concern, as with all single sided PCBs is the header pins. Replacing these pins or simply reflowing the solder on them is a good idea as they are subject to cracked solder joints.

If working properly, the strobe will fire 4 times at game power up. It also strobes along with the controlled lamps during "all lamp" test. It obviously will strobe during game play too.

  • Flash Gordon Strobe Board Components
  • Bally Strobe Lamp Board as found on Flash Gordon (front), with new 22uf capacitors.
  • Bally Strobe Lamp Board as found on Flash Gordon (rear).
  • The "HAL-9000 like eye" strobe lamp as seen from the front of the lamp insert panel.
  • Small transformer and in-line fuse in cabinet bottom.



3.13.4 Stern IM-100 Flash Lamp Board

As part of Iron Maiden (1982) Stern utilized a prominent flasher lamp on the backbox lamp board, controlled by a unique aux lamp driver board part number IM-100.

However, Stern did not document the use of this strobe lamp as part of the game manual or schematics.

3.14 Displays

Here are some different types of Bally displays

  • Bally 6 and 7 digit displays
  • AS-2518-21 6-Digit Display
  • AS-2518-15 6-Digit Display
  • AS-2518-58 7-Digit Display



Here are some different Stern displays. Note that the DA-300 circuit board is deeper than any of the other display types.

  • Stern 4, 6, and 7 digit displays
  • 4-Digit Display
  • DA-100 6-Digit Display (Double-Sided)
  • DA-100 (Rev B) 6-Digit Display (Single-Sided)
  • DA-100 6-Digit Display (Single-Sided)
  • Different DA-100 6-Digit Display (Single-Sided)
  • DA-300 (Rev A) 7-Digit Display
  • DA-300 (Rev B) 7-Digit Display
  • DA-300 (Rev C) 7-Digit Display


3.14.1 Bally 6-Digit Displays

A healthy Bally 6-Digit Display


The following information is focused on the AS-2518-21 display. Since the AS-2518-15 display is interchangeable with the "-21" display, everything mentioned here will apply to both displays. 7-digit displays behave the same too, so this information will be helpful for those too. The only real difference is an additional digit enable signal, and some more electronics on the board to drive the 7th digit.

If you could care less displays work, but are looking for information on how to repair them, then jump to the Repairing Bally Displays article below. We'll also show you some ideas on how to keep your displays working properly.

Example of a Bally AS-2518-15 6-digit display
Example of a Bally AS-2518-21 6-digit display


The two displays are a little different in the way the components are laid out. Regardless of the differences in appearance, they both perform the same function and are interchangeable with each other. The original display (at least the one mentioned in the Power Play Owner's Manual) is the "-21". The two shown here were upgraded with 1/2 watt 100K ohm resistors. A modification that should be done on all displays.

Example of a Stern 6-digit display
Example of a Stern 6-digit display


Likewise, there are different versions of Stern 6-digit displays. These displays are interchangeable with all Bally and Stern games.

3.14.1.1 How the displays work

The way the display circuitry works is really quite interesting. Although the human eye can not detect it, at any given moment, each display is only showing one digit at a time. The program that runs on the machine's computer is changing the digits so fast that it is not visible. If you were to film the displays and play the film back in slow motion, you'd see all the displays showing the same digit, and it cycles through all six, from left to right. It just cycles so fast that your brain thinks the whole display is lit all the time.

Each display has six digits, and upon closer inspection, each digit consists of seven segments. This is important stuff to know in order to understand how these displays work, and most important, how to fix them cheaply!

There are 4 main "parts" of a display assembly:

  • The glass display itself
  • The display driver consisting of the input decoder
  • The six digit driver circuits
  • The seven segment driver circuits

There is one digit driver circuit for each of the six digits, and one segment driver circuit for each segment of a digit. How the actual glass display does what it does in order to light various digits and segments is beyond the scope of this tutorial. The decoder takes a number from 0 - 9 as input and determines which segments need to be energized in order to represent this number. The digit drivers are responsible for applying the proper voltages to the proper pins of the display to tell it which digit to light. The segment drivers are responsible for applying the proper voltage to the proper pins of the display to tell it which segments of the digit to light. It is the MPU's job to supply the proper signals to the display driver to make it do all this stuff.

The decoder is a small integrated circuit (MC14543LE) called a "BCD To Seven Segment Decoder". This decoder happens to be a "latching" decoder, which means it latches onto its inputs and keeps them, even if they are no longer applied, until the decoder is told to release them (blanked). The decoder also has an input called a strobe. When strobed, the decoder will read it's four inputs and latch on to them. A strobe signal is usually a quick off/on/off pulse. There is also an input for the blanking signal.

Labeled Segments and Truth Table


BCD stands for Binary Coded Decimal and is a fancy term for storing a number from 0 - 9 in a half byte of storage (four bits). Using BDC encoding, each byte of memory can store two digits. The input of the decoder is a BCD number from 0 - 9, and the output of the decoder is seven signals. These seven signals are either on or off, and relate to the seven segments of a digit. Each of the seven output signals go to a MPS-A42 transistor, which is part of a circuit called a segment driver. This transistor acts like a switch to turn the segments on or off. The outputs of the seven segment drivers go to the seven segment pins of the display glass. This is how the computer tells the display driver which segments to light. The MPU has a four-signal data path that goes to all five displays (or seven for Six Million Dollar Man). These four signals provide the 4-bit input into the decoder, and remember, all four signals go to ALL of the displays. Please see the diagram of how the segments are labeled, and a truth table showing the 15 possible inputs and outputs to the decoder. For those of you that don't know about binary arithmetic, you can get 15 possible combinations of on/off with 4 digits. (e.g., "0000", "0001", "0010", ..., "0111", "1111"). This is also how you count in binary, or base-2. Remember that the display driver is only interested in 10 of the 15 possible combinations, the ones that represent the numbers 0 - 9, or "0000" - "1001". Any other input combinations will result in unpredictable outputs from the decoder, so we label these as "don't cares", since we know they will never happen under normal circumstances.

The digit driver circuit consists of an MPS-A42 transistor and a 2N5401 transistor connected in a circuit that acts as a switch. Normally with no input signal applied, the switch is off, keeping the high voltage supplied by the HV Regulator away from the display. There are 6 digit signals provided by the MPU, one for each digit. The MPU will enable one signal at a time, telling the display driver which digit to operate. This signal will then turn on the "switch" for the digit, allowing the high voltage a connection to the proper pins of the glass display to energize the desired digit. These signals from the MPU are simply 6 wires and the MPU will activate one of them at a time. Like the segment signals, the six digit signals go to all of the displays in a daisy chain fashion.

Before explaining how the computer makes all this work, let's summarize: A display driver has four inputs from the MPU. The first is a collection of six signals used to tell the display driver which digit to energize (six digits in the display, six digit signals). Only one of these signals are on at a time. The second input is a collection of four signals that tell the display driver which number to display, in the form of segments. These four signals provide a binary pattern that is interpreted as a binary number from 0 to 9. The third input is a strobe signal, which tells the decoder to read it's inputs, and the fourth signal is a blanking signal, which tells the decoder to turn off all it's outputs. Also, but not mentioned above, are various voltages from the power supply and high-voltage regulator. Each display driver is supplied with +5VDC from the 5-volt regulator on the solenoid driver board. This is used to drive the logic circuits of the decoder. There is also +190VDC* applied to the display driver from the high-voltage regulator on the solenoid board. Finally there is a connection to ground, which brings all the voltages to the proper reference point.

*For brand new displays, this voltage should be at +190VDC in order to "burn in" the display. Once a display has become used, this voltage may be backed down to +170VDC, which will work just fine and will help prolong the life of the display.

3.14.1.2 How The Computer Controls The Display

The next thing to understand is how the computer in the pinball machine operates the displays. For this section, referenced MPU board will be the AS-2518-17 module, but all this also holds true for the "-35" MPU module as well. And again, the Bally AS-2518-21 and AS-2518-15 Display Drivers will be referenced. The Stern style display drivers operate the same, and the six digit Stern drivers are 100% swappable with the Bally displays. There are a few minor differences between the seven digit varieties of displays preventing a direct swap without modifications.

Display Signals from MPU Board Illustrated


As mentioned above, there are four sets of signal lines that go from the MPU module to the display driver modules. The first set is the BCD data set which carry the display segment BCD data to all the displays on 4 wires. They leave the MPU module (A4) at connector J1, pins 25-28 and visit every display driver module at connector J1 and pins 16-19 (D4 - D0). The next set of signals is the digit enable signals. These 6 wires carry signals to all the display driver modules with information telling it which digit to light. The third set of signals are 5 latch strobe signals. There is one separate signal for each display driver, and it is the signal that tells the driver's decoder to read the decoder inputs, and output the proper segment signals. The final signal is a single single that goes to all the display drivers called Display Blanking. The signal tells the display driver's decoder to turn off all segment outputs, thereby blanking out the display, or turning all segments off.

Bally and Stern Display Interrupt Circuitry. The 555 timer is configured as a pulse generator.


Once the machine has been turned on and has booted up, the processor on the MPU module is continuously running a program that is stored in the module's ROM chip(s). This program is responsible for controlling the game by reading all the switches, lighting all the lamps, activating all the solenoids, and controlling the displays. The program keeps a lot of information in RAM and uses this information to keep track of scores, switches, etc. An interrupt is a term for a section of computer program that interrupts the "main" program in order to execute a smaller program, sometimes referred to as a "service routine". We won't get into just how this actually happens, just be aware that the main program of a computer may be interrupted at any given time. And to make things even more complicated, interrupts themselves can be interrupted by higher priority interrupt service routines. There may be several different interrupts that occur in a pinball's computer program, but the one we want to study is the one that controls the displays. Keep in mind what was mentioned above, that at any given instant, only one digit is lit on any display. This is called multiplexing.

320 times a second, or once every 3-1/4 milliseconds (thousands of a second), the CPU is interrupted to service the displays. In memory, the CPU keeps track of all the information it needs to operate all the displays. This information includes a counter used to indicate which display digit is active, the BCD data for all the displays, etc. Here's what the display service routine actually does:

  • Determine which digit was updated last time - The MPU looks at the digit counter and adds 1 to this value. If the new value is 7, it is changes to 1, then the new value is stored back into memory. Let's assume the new value is 4, so we're going to update the 4th digit.
  • Blank out all the displays - The CPU raises the signal on the Blanking Line which causes all displays to go blank (the blanking signal tells all the decoders to turn off their segment outputs).
  • Fetch the BCD data from memory - The BCD data for the first display, 4th digit is fetched from memory.
  • Send the BCD data to the display driver - This BCD data is placed on the BCD data bus and display #1 is strobed. This will cause the display's decoder to latch onto the input signals (store them for future use).
  • Do it again - The previous two steps are repeated for the second, third, fourth, and fifth display.
  • Enable the digit - The MPU then enables the 4th digit and disables the other 5 digits by raising and lowering signals on the Digit Enable lines.
  • Finally, turn the digit on - The MPU lowers the signal on the Blanking Line, which causes the all of the decoders to output their proper segment signals and the 4th digit on each display is displayed.
  • All done! - The interrupt service routine then exits and control returns to the main program

As you can see, the display interrupt service routine only handled 1 digit for all displays. Every time it is invoked, it will process the "next" digit, resetting the counter back to 1 when necessary. The process of updating 1 digit for all displays takes about 500 microseconds, or 1/2 of a millisecond, to complete. Pretty cool, eh?

So, lets do some math. It takes 1/2 millisecond to update one digit, and since there are 6 digits, it takes 3 milliseconds to display all six digits. Since the interrupt runs 320 times a second, and it takes 6 interrupts to update the entire display, dividing 320 by 6 means that the displays are completely updated just over 54 times every second. That's fast enough to fool your eyes and brain into thinking the display is completely lit all the time. Also, since the interrupt routine takes about 1/2 millisecond to run, and it runs 320 times every second, that means about 160 milliseconds of every second of time is spent updating the displays, which is about 16 percent of the time.

3.15 Bally Auxiliary Lamp Driver Boards

Bally AS-2518-43 Aux. Lamp Driver Board
Midway A084-91614-A000 Aux. Lamp Driver Board - same as AS-2518-43)

To increase the total of controlled lamps used in a particular game, Bally implemented auxiliary lamp driver boards. These aux. lamp driver boards were either used for effect (chaser or infinity lamps used between backglasses in games such as Xenon or Space Invaders), additional controlled insert lamps, or both (top rollover insert lamps and Queen's Chamber chaser lamps used on Centaur).

There are essentially only two different boards used in games. The first is an AS-2518-43. This is the smaller footprint board, which has only one output connection. It is capable of driving 12 discrete circuits or a total of 24 lamps (12 sets of 2 lamps).

Outputs for AS-2518-43 Aux. Lamp Driver Board
J2 Header 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Output
Q1
Q2
Q3
KEY
Q4
Q5
Q6
GND
GND
--
Q7
Q8
--
--
--
--
Q9
Q12
Q11
Q10


Bally AS-2518-52 Aux. Lamp Driver Board


The second board is the AS-2518-52. This board is narrower, yet longer in construction. It is capable of driving 28 discrete circuits or a total of 56 lamps (28 sets of 2 lamps). Either aux. lamp driver board receives the same inputs from the CPU board. Likewise, these signals are identical to the signals sent to the primary lamp driver board. The only differing signal between the primary lamp driver board and either aux. lamp driver board is the lamp strobe. The primary lamp driver board receives lamp strobe 1, while the aux. lamp driver boards receive lamp strobe 2.

Outputs for AS-2518-52 Aux. Lamp Driver Board
J2 Header 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 -- --
Output
--
--
KEY
Q2
Q7
Q6
Q1
Q3
Q5
Q4
Q9
Q14
Q13
Q8
Q10
--
Q12
Q11
--
--
J3 Header 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Output
--
KEY
Q16
Q21
GND
GND
Q20
Q15
Q17
Q19
Q18
Q23
Q28
Q27
Q22
Q24
Q26
Q25
GND
GND


Grand Products 0200-700 auxiliary lamp driver board

A third auxiliary lamp driver board was produced, but not by Bally. It was specific to the 301/Bulls Eye conversion kit produced by Grand Products, Inc. It can sometimes be misidentified as a standard Bally AS-2518-52 aux lamp board because of its similar footprint and layout. However, it does not have any silkscreened text on the top of the board, the .156" pins are keyed differently, and it has an additional row of .100" header pins.


3.16 Bally Sound Boards

3.16.1 Bally AS-2518-32 Sound Board

Bally AS-2518-32 Sound Board with 2 pots
Bally AS-2518-32 Sound Board with 3rd pot at R35


-32 Sound Board ROMs & Jumper Settings

Game U3 ROM Jumper Settings
Lost World  E729-18   B 
Six Million Dollar Man  E729-18   B 
Playboy  E729-18   B 
Voltan Escapes Cosmic Doom ? ?
Supersonic  E729-18   B 

Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.

3.16.2 Bally AS-2518-50 Sound Board

Bally AS-2518-50 Sound Board


-50 Sound Board ROM & Jumper Settings

Game U3 ROM Jumper Settings
Star Trek  E729-18   B, D 
Kiss  E729-18   B, D 
Paragon  E729-51   B, C 
Harlem Globetrotters  E729-51   B, C 
Dolly Parton  E729-51   B, C 

Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.

3.16.3 Bally AS-2518-51 Sound Board

Bally AS-2518-51 Sound Board

The AS-2518-51 sound board improved over earlier sound boards that only made tones and introduced the ability to produce sound effects.

This sound board has a single sound ROM labeled u4.

There is a single self-test push-button on the board, which has the ability to produce a tone or a series of sounds. However, not all game sound ROMs have the self-test feature available. Some ROMs will make the board beep only once, some ROMs will repeat a test sound, and other ROMs do not respond to the self-test button at all. To complete a successful self-test, a sound ROM with a self-test feature must be used. Note that when a sound ROM without a self-test feature is installed and results in an unresponsive self-test, this does not necessarily indicate a problem with the sound board or sound ROM.

-51 Sound Board ROMs & Jumper Settings
Jumper A is used when U3 is a 6802 and U10 (6810) is not installed.
Jumper B is used when U3 is a 6808 and U10 (6810) is installed.
Jumper C is used when U4 is 2K in size (9316B or 2716).
Jumper D is used when U4 is 4K in size (2532 or 4732).

Game U4 ROM ROM Size Jumper Settings Self-Test
Nitro Groundshaker E776-14, E776-15 2K B, C No
Future Spa E781-2, E781-5 (or sub with E781-13) 2K B, C No
Silverball Mania E786-8, E786-11 2K B, C Yes
Space Invaders E792-2, E792-7 2K B, C No
Rolling Stones E796-11, E796-19 2K B, C Yes
Mystic E798-2, E798-5 2K B, C Yes
Viking E802-2, E802-7 2K B, C Yes
Hot Doggin E809-2, E809-7 2K B, C Yes
Frontier E819-2, E819-9 2K B, C Yes
Skateball E823-2, E823-14 2K B, C Yes
Speakeasy E877-1 2K B, C ?
BMX E888-02 4K B, D ?
Grand Slam E895-? 4K B, D Yes
Gold Ball E896-? 4K B, D Yes

Source for Jumper Information: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.

3.16.4 Sounds Plus Sound Board (AS-2518-56)

Bally AS-2518-56 Sounds Plus Board



The Sounds Plus board was only used in Xenon and very early Flash Gordons. The Sounds Plus board has a daughter card called the Vocalizer that contains the roms and circuitry needed to generate speech.

3.16.5 Vocalizer Speech Board (AS-2518-57)

Bally AS-2518-57 Vocalizer Board
Bally AS-2518-57 Vocalizer and Sounds Plus Boards Insitu


The Vocalizer board was only used in Xenon and very early Flash Gordons. It is a complimentary board to the AS-2518-56 Sounds Plus board, and contains the numerous roms needed for an extensive speech vocabulary.

3.16.6 Squawk & Talk Sound Board (AS-2518-61)

The Squawk & Talk (S&T) sound board was the first to offer sound and speech in one board to Bally games. It is probably the most intuitive sound board Bally offered too. Similar to the Bally MPU boards, the S&T uses an LED flashing system during board initialization. There are at least 4 variations of the board: -61, -61a, -61b and -61d.

Some variations of this board have a J3 header connection located at the top upper left edge of the board. This connection was never implemented. Likewise, some boards are populated with a 2 x 20 pin .100" header connection located on the left edge of the board. This connection is marked on the schematics for the use of a vocalizer, which was never implemented.

All of the different variations of this board should work on all games. The exceptions are Centaur and Centaur II. These two games must use the -61b board. The reason for this are the extra input/output connections at J2 (bottom right of board) needed for connection to the Say It Again board and the "FF" jumper which routes analog audio to the SIA board (or not). A standard -61 or -61a has a total of 6 header pins at J2, while the -61b has a total of 10 header pins.

  • 4 Revisions of the AS-2518-61 Squawk and Talk Sound Board
  • AS-2518-61 Squawk & Talk Sound Board
  • AS-2518-61a Squawk & Talk Sound Board
  • AS-2518-61b Squawk & Talk Sound Board. Note expanded connector at J2 (lower right).
  • AS-2518-61d Squawk & Talk Sound Board installed in VECTOR.



Squawk & Talk Jumper Settings

Bally Squawk & Talk Jumper Locations. Note that the -61B revision of the board contains a jumper FF located within the stack of resistors below the AD558. Neither the -61 or the -61a revision has this jumper.



The first table below is a list of the Squawk & Talk jumper settings by game as specified in the 1982 Bally / Midway parts catalog. These jumpers reflect the original ROM configuration when the game was released. If you've changed your sound ROMs to 2716s or from 2532s to 2732s, see the second table below.

  • If using a 6808 CPU chip with a 6810 chip, install L, remove K
  • If using a 6802 CPU chip, install K, remove L. The 6810 can be removed if using a 6802, but doesn't impede proper operation if left in place
  • The 5 EE jumpers must be installed when the AY-3-8912 chip is not present.
  • The -61B revision of the board has an FF jumper, located in the stack of resistors below the AD558. This jumper should be OUT when a "Say it again" board is used (ala Centaur). This jumper should be IN when a "Say it again" board is not used or connected. The jumper "short cuts" the path used when a SIA board is connected. If the jumper is OUT and a SIA board is not connected, then there is no path for the analog sound to reach final amplification by the TDA2002 at U8.
Game Original Jumper settings as shipped with factory configured ROMs
Flash Gordon  C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K 
Eight Ball Deluxe  C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K 
Fireball II  C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K 
Embryon  C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, X, Y, AA, H, DD, N, EE, and L or K 
Fathom  C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, EE*, and L or K 
Medusa  C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, EE, and L or K 
Elektra  C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, and L or K 
Centaur  C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, D, H, DD, N, EE, FF (if no SIA board), and L or K 
Rapid Fire  C, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, EE, CC, M 
Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man  C, D, E, G, Q, S, W, Y, U, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K 
Spectrum  C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, BB, H, DD, N, EE, and L or K 
Vector  C, D, E, G, Q, S, U, W, Y, AA, H, DD, N, and L or K 

Source: Bally / Midway 1982 parts catalog.
*Note: Even though the parts catalog states otherwise, Fathom does use the EE jumpers.

Squawk and Talk board jumper settings for various sized ROMs at U2 through U5

ROM Size/Location      ALL         U2         U3         U4         U5    
 2716 or 9316
C, E
D, P
Q, T
U, X
Y, BB
 2532 or 9332
C, E
D, G
Q, S
U, W
Y, AA
 2732
C, E
F, P
R, T
V, X
Z, BB


3.16.7 Say It Again Board

Bally AS-2518-81 Say It Again Sound Board. Image courtesy of PinSider Victor Nash.

The "Say It Again" sound board adds reverb to a Squawk & Talk sound and speech board. This board was only used on Centaur and Centaur II.

3.16.8 Cheap Squeak Sound Board

Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board A080-91603-XXXX or Midway P/N M-051-00114-XXXX

The Cheap Squeak was designed as a lesser expensive sound board. It only utilizes a 6803 microprocessor, which allows it to function without 6821 PIAs and external ram memory. This sound board is only capable of simple tones and sounds and no speech.

The following -35 games use the Cheap Squeak:

  • Black Pyramid
  • Cybernaut
  • Fireball Classic
  • Kings Of Steel
  • Spy Hunter
  • X's & O's


Granny and the Gators, a -133 game also uses the Cheap Squeak. Lady Luck, a 6803 based game, also uses this sound board.

At power up, the Cheap Squeak's LED will flicker briefly, then flash, flash again, then turn on and stay on. Once the LED stays on, it seems to turn itself off for certain sounds, and then turn back on. Likewise, it appears to idle with the LED on, when no sounds are playing. The LED May turn on and off when sounds are playing or idle, but this is not always the case. With some games (Kings of Steel, X's and O's, and Black Pyramid), after the sound board successfully boots, the LED remains on.

There are differing results when pressing the self test button depending on the sound ROMs. For example, pressing the self test with Black Pyramid ROMs results in a differing tone played every time. While pressing self test with Kings of Steel or X's and O's ROMs, causes the sound board to play the same sound each time.

Board Theory of Operations
The 6803 (U1) microprocessor multiplexes A0-A7 with D0-D7, calling those signals AD0-AD7. The processor fetches information from the sound ROMs (both code to execute and sound clips) by placing address information on AD0-AD7 and strobing the processor's AS (address strobe) signal to the 74LS373 (U2), thereby latching the lower 8 bits of the address bus in the LS373. A8-A15 are used along with jumpers JW1 through JW12, to implement a memory mapped I/O scheme to address the 2 sound ROMs which can be 2532s, 2732s, or 2764s. A14 and A15 control the 74LS10 (a triple 3-input nand gate) to assert device selects to the ROMs.

Note that the processor does not use the traditional R/W signal as it never "writes" to memory. Besides placing instruction address and data on the address and data busses, the processor reads sound selects via P20-P24 and writes sound data to the DAC via P10-P17. Think of these lines as PA1-PA7 of a 6821 or 6532.

The 6803 is initialized by the MPU at power up into 6803 mode N. Once initialized and running, the sound ROM code running in the 6803 accepts sound signal commands and merely reads pre-formatted sound "clips" from the sound ROMs and then writes the data to the ZN429 (U6) digital-to-analog converter (DAC) 8 bits at a time. The DAC converts the digital data to an analog level which is presented to the amplifiers for output to the speaker(s).

The board creates 5VDC on board by regulating 12VDC down to 5VDC. Unregulated 12VDC enters the board at J1-10. It is filtered by C8, C9, and C10. The inductor at L1 smooths the voltage somewhat. D6 (VR332, equivalent to a 1N5402), D7, and D8 drop the voltage by .5 - .7 volts (normal voltage drop across a diode). The 7805 at U9 further regulates the voltage down to 5VDC which can be measured at TP2 (TP3 is ground).

This 5VDC is used to power the TTL logic ICs. The ZN429 DAC also uses this 5VDC as a voltage reference. To prevent the sound volume from fluctuating over the range of operating temperatures, the reference voltage is held constant by a "voltage divider biasing circuit" comprised of resistors at R22, R23, and R24, and a 2N5305 NPN transistor at Q7. This reference voltage is presented at pin 5 of the DAC.

Test Points

  • TP1 should measure about 11VDC.
  • TP2 is 5VDC.
  • TP3 is ground.
  • TP4 is the clock signal, provided externally by the 6803 for the purpose of synchronizing address and data read cycles.
  • TP5 is the reset signal, which is also present on pin 6 of the 6803.

Cheap Squeak ROMs & Jumper Settings

Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board with Jumpers Highlighted
 General EPROM Configuration   Jumpers Connected 
 U3 & U4 using 2532s  J6, J9, J12
 U3 & U4 using 2732s  J7, J10, J11
 U3 ONLY using 2764 (works only for Cybernaut and X's & O's)   J2, J4, J7, J11, J10*

*Note: If J10 is already installed, leaving it in should cause no ill effects when only using a single 2764.
Sound ROM Configuration and Behavior by Game

 Game   EPROM Configuration Tested   Jumpers Connected   LED Boot Behavior   SW1 Tune   Boot Tune 
 Granny and the Gators                     
 Cybernaut   U3 - 2764, U4 - nu   J2, J4, J7, J11   Flicker, Blink, Blink, On   Space Ship Landing   Ding followed by Decaying Buzz 
 X's & O's   U3 - 2764, U4 - nu   J2, J4, J7, J11   Flicker, Blink, Blink, On   Single Chime that decays   Single Chime that decays 
 Spy Hunter   U3 - 2732, U4 - 2732   J7, J10, J11   Flicker, Blink, Blink, On   Cartoon Electrical Short Circuit   Chime followed by Rising Laser 
 Lady Luck           Flicker, Blink, Blink, On   Explosion    
 Black Pyramid   U3 - 2732, U4 - 2732   J7, J10, J11   Flicker, Blink, Blink, On   Random Pitched Chime   Ding followed by Decaying Buzz 
 Kings of Steel   U3 - 2732, U4 - 2732   J7, J10, J11   Flicker, Blink, Blink, On   Bell   Chime followed by Rising Laser 
 Fireball Classic   U3 - 2732, U4 - 2732   J7, J10, J11   Flicker, Blink, Blink, On (assumed - please verify)   Bell   Chime followed by Rising Laser 

After pressing the test switch (SW1), a sound is played, and then the board reboots itself.
Note: Combining 2732 images into a single 2764 does not work for Black Pyramid, Fireball Classic, Kings Of Steel, or Spy Hunter.

3.16.9 Bally Sound Board Pinouts

NC = not connected, and verified.
Not all N/U have been verified as NC. Some may actually be NC.

Pin Connection AS-2518-32 AS-2518-50 AS-2518-51 AS-2518-56
Sounds Plus 		AS-2518-61
Squawk & Talk 		AS-2518-61A
Squawk & Talk 		AS-2518-61B
Squawk & Talk 		A080-91603-C000
Cheap Squeak 		A080-91864-C000
Sounds Deluxe
J1-1 Sol. Address A Sol. Address A Sol. Address A Sol. Address A Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select
J1-2 Sol. Address B Sol. Address B Sol. Address B Sol. Address B Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select
J1-3 Sol. Address C Sol. Address C Sol. Address C Sol. Address C Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select
J1-4 Sol. Address D Sol. Address D Sol. Address D Sol. Address D Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select
J1-5 +5VDC +5VDC +5VDC +5VDC N/U NC N/U N/U N/U
J1-6 Ground Ground Ground Ground Ground Ground Ground Logic Ground Logic Ground
J1-7 NC N/U N/U N/U Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC) Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC) Gen. Ill. Bus (6VAC) N/U Wired in game, but N/U in schematics, need info
J1-8 Sol. Bank Select Sol. Bank Select Sound Interrupt Sound Interrupt Sound Interrupt Sound Interrupt Sound Interrupt Sound Interrupt Sound Interrupt
J1-9 +43V +43V N/U N/U N/U NC N/U N/U N/U
J1-10 NC N/U +12V Unregulated +12V Unregulated +12V Unregulated +12V Unregulated +12V Unregulated +12V Unregulated +12V Unregulated
J1-11 Key Key Key Key Key Key Key Key Key
J1-12 Sol. Address E Sol. Address E Sol. Address E Sol. Address E Sound Select Sound Select Sound Select N/U N/U
J1-13 N/U N/U N/U (Spare Address Line) N/U (Spare Address Line) N/U NC N/U Earth Ground Earth Ground in schematics, not wired in game
J1-14 Ground Ground Ground N/U (Ground) Ground Ground Ground Logic Ground Logic Ground in schematics, not wired in game
J1-15 +43V Return (Sol. Ground) +43V Return (Sol. Ground) +12V Unregulated Return +12V Unregulated Return +12V Unregulated Return +12V Unregulated Return +12V Unregulated Return +12V Unregulated Return +12V Unregulated Return
J1-16 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a +12V Unregulated Return +12V Unregulated Return n/a n/a
J1-17 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a +12V Unregulated +12V Unregulated n/a n/a
J1-18 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a N/U N/U n/a n/a
Pin Connection AS-2518-32 AS-2518-50 AS-2518-51 AS-2518-56
Sounds Plus 		AS-2518-61
Squawk & Talk 		AS-2518-61A
Squawk & Talk 		AS-2518-61B
Squawk & Talk 		A080-91603-C000
Cheap Squeak 		A080-91864-C000
Sounds Deluxe
J2-1 Speaker + Speaker + Speaker - Speaker - Speaker - Speaker - Speaker - Speaker - Speaker -
J2-2 Speaker - Speaker - Speaker + Speaker + Speaker + Speaker + Speaker + Speaker + Speaker +
J2-3 n/a n/a n/a n/a Key Key Key n/a n/a
J2-4 n/a n/a n/a n/a Remote Volume Return Remote Volume Return Remote Volume Return n/a n/a
J2-5 n/a n/a n/a n/a Speech Volume Speech Volume Speech Volume n/a n/a
J2-6 n/a n/a n/a n/a Sound Volume Sound Volume Sound Volume n/a n/a
J2-7 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Reverb Audio In n/a n/a
J2-8 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Shield Ground n/a n/a
J2-9 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Audio Out n/a n/a
J2-10 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Shield Ground n/a n/a
Pin Connection AS-2518-32 AS-2518-50 AS-2518-51 AS-2518-56
Sounds Plus 		AS-2518-61
Squawk & Talk 		AS-2518-61A
Squawk & Talk 		AS-2518-61B
Squawk & Talk 		A080-91603-C000
Cheap Squeak 		A080-91864-C000
Sounds Deluxe
J3-1 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Ground n/a n/a
J3-2 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Data n/a n/a
J3-3 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Clock n/a n/a
J3-4 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a +5VDC n/a n/a
J3-5 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Key n/a n/a
J3-6 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a PB3 n/a n/a
J3-7 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a PB2 n/a n/a

3.17 Stern Sound Boards

3.17.1 Stern SB-100 Sound Board

YT.png A demonstration of the sounds made by a fully populated SB-100 driven by "Nugent" ROMs can be found here.

Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 1st Generation
Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 1st Generation - Schematics


The first generation SB-100 sound board was used on the earliest Stern games with electronic sound. These boards were fully populated, because in addition to electronic sounds, there was a (simulated) chimes option (typically dipswitch setting 23 on M-100 MPU boards). Although they will have higher pitched sounds, the first generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M-100 MPU board and electronic sounds. With some modifications, this board can be made to sound like the lower pitched 3rd generation board.

Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 2nd Generation (less populated)


The second generation SB-100 sound board was used on Stern games with electronic sound and no chime sound option (typically dipswitch setting 23 on M-100 MPU boards). Due to the lack of the optional chime sounds option, this board is less populated. Although they will have higher pitched sounds, the second generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M-100 MPU board and electronic sounds, which did not use the chime option. With some modifications, this board can be made to sound like the lower pitched third generation board.

Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 3rd Generation (C-1 - less populated)
Another image of the Stern SB-100 Sound Board - 3rd Generation (C-1 - less populated)


The third generation SB-100 sound board was used on some of the last Stern M-100 games with electronic sound and no chime sound option. Like the second generation board, due to the lack of the optional chime sounds, this board is less populated. The difference with this board and the second generation board is that the component markings and through holes have been removed where components are no longer used. Although they will have lower pitched sounds, the third generation boards are compatible with all Stern games using the M-100 MPU board, which did not use the chime option. This board also shipped in the "standard" green PCB variety. This board is easily identified by the large "C-1" notation. Some test points are located in different positions compared to the first two generations, and TP8 has been deleted.

  • Differences Found Between Different Versions of SB-100 Sound Board
  • Front side of 1st gen board in vicinity of 74107
  • Modification found on /RESET line of 1st gen board
  • Back side of 1st gen board in vicinity of incoming /RESET line and 74107
  • Front side of 2nd gen board in vicinity of 74107. Note the addition of a 47Kohm resistor and 3.3uF 6v tantalum capacitor
  • Back side Modification found on /RESET line of 2nd gen board. Unless J1 pin 25 is removed from the board, this will tie the /RESET line to the +5v.
  • Back side of 2nd gen board in vicinity of incoming /RESET line (J1 pin 25)
  • Front side of 3rd gen (C-1) board in vicinity of 74107. Note that service bulletin 11 has been implemented into the design of the board by this time. R93 (47Kohm 1/4W resistor) and C56 (3.3uF 6v tantalum cap) are not in the earlier boards original design, and are possibly not notated on the schematics.
  • Back side of 3rd gen board in vicinity of where incoming /RESET line used to be. +5V trace is directly tied to the top of R93.
  • Back side of 3rd gen board in vicinity of incoming /RESET line (J1 pin 25). The /RESET line is no longer used on the board.

3.17.2 Stern SB-300 Sound Board

Stern SB-300 Sound Board

The Stern SB-300 sound board was used in all games which used the M-200 MPU board. The SB-300 is interfaced to the MPU board via the 34 pin J5 connector located at the top of the board.

Note that the sound board only uses pins 1-32 on its J1 connection. Some ribbon cables used were 2 - 16 pin connections, while others were 2 - 17 pin connections, or a combination of the two.

Make certain that pin 34 of the sound board is not connected to the MPU. Pin 34 on J1 of the sound board and pin 34 on J5 of the MPU board is the /IRQ signal. This signal is never used by the sound board. However, if it is connected to the MPU board from the sound board, it can sometimes cause the MPU to lock up or hang. Either bend pin 34 of J1 on the sound board away from the connector (if it is even connected), or snip the pin off completely.

3.17.2.1 Stern VSU-100 Speech Board
Stern VSU-100 Speech Board
The Stern sound board and speech boards shown installed in a game



The Stern VSU-100 speech board was used as a complimentary board to the SB-300 sound board. In other words, Stern never designed a sound board which was capable of both sound and speech. The speech synthesis is based on the S14001A speech chip. They are pricey, but still available.

3.18 Speakers

All Bally -35 and -133 games use a speaker, Bally -17 games do not. In some cases, games use more than one speaker. The early games use a very small, xxx ohm, low wattage speaker in the bottom of the cabinet.

Typical M-100 speaker from a Hot Hand. Note that the volume control is missing from this unit.
Typical M-200 speaker from a Seawitch


With the exception of the first four Stern M-100 games, which shipped with a 4-bar chime box, all others use a speaker. And most of them have the speaker mounted on a board, aimed at the coin door. The speaker is a 6-1/2", low wattage speaker, but has an odd impedance of 6.4 ohms.

The Stern M-200 games use a single speaker in the lower cabinet. It is a 6-1/2", 8 ohm, low wattage (some are marked 8W) speaker.

3.19 Stern MAA-100 ROM Board

For the first Stern solid state game, Pinball, a ROM board was initially used. It was also used in Stingray, as Stingray has the same ROM set as Pinball.

This board was mounted to the backbox and a harness connected the board to the MPU board at the top connector J5.

  • Stern MAA-100 ROM Board

  • Stern MAA-100 ROM Board installed

  • Stern MAA-100 ROM Board installed in Stingray


3.20 Jumper/ROM Info

Jumpers are small zero ohm resistors or pieces of bare or insulated wire used to connect various points of an MPU board together to allow the board to utilize varying sizes and types of ROM/EPROM chips. Many of the logic gate chips on the MPU boards are used to steer address signals to the proper pins on the various U1-U6 chip sockets. If you have changed the jumpers and you cannot make the board boot with known good working roms, it is possible you have an addressing problem caused by one of the logic gate support chips. Always double check your jumper work by following the trace or schematic to the next point after the jumper; i.e. do not just measure continuity across the jumper. Go to the next point where the jumper connects and test between those points.

Be careful soldering to the pads, as they can be fragile. It is best to remove all the solder from the pad and insert the jumper fully into the via rather than just solder to the top. Soldering the jumper top and bottom will help with any cracked vias. Solder the jumpers to the top of the board where the jumper silk screening is printed rather than the back so that you can easily spot what type of rom chips the board is jumpered for.

All software for Bally/Stern boards can be reformatted into a 2x2732 configuration. It helps to understand how the original software is formatted to understand how to combine and pad the software to get different formats. Any board jumpered to take 2x2732 has its address ranges of U2 as $1000-$17FF (lower half) $5000-$57FF (upper half). The U6 ranges are $1800-$1FFF (lower half) and $5800-$5FFF (upper half).

If the game was originally 4x2716, U1=$1000-$17FF, U2=$5000-$57FF, U5=$1800-$1FFF, and U6=$5800-$5FFF. Thus, to combine this setup to work on a 2x2732 configuration, you would combine U1+U2 into U2.732 and U5+U6 into U6.732 using either your burner software, or the DOS command copy /b u1.716 + u2.716 u2.732.

If you need to use 2716 eproms but don't have any, you can use a 2732 eprom in its place by duplicating the data. Either use the DOS command copy /b rom.716 + rom.716 rom.732 or load the data twice into your burner; depending on its software, you might change the buffer address by $800 (so the duplicate data loads after the first segment) or it might ask if you want to append the data to the existing buffer.

3.20.1 Bally AS-2518-35 or AS-2518-133 Jumper Info

The following is a list or various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Bally -35 or -133 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts. The letter "E" has been eliminated on every jumper number after the first to save space. 9332 ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory and can be replaced with 2532 EPROMS without any modification to the original board, provided that board has not been altered.

U1 ROM U2 ROM U6 ROM MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order Jumper CUTS
9316 9316 9316 E1-4,2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-19,31-32,33-34
2716 74S474 74S474 E1-3,2-6,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-18,31-32,33-35
2532 or 9332 2532 or 9332 E4-12, 7-8, 10-11, 13a-14, 16a-34, 29-33, 31-32 E13-15
2532 or 9332 2732 E4-12,7-8,10-11,13a-14,16a-29,31-32,33-35 E13-15
9316 9316 E2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-19,31-32,33-34
9316 9316 2716 E1-4,2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13a-19,16a-18,31-32,33-35 E13-15
2716 9316 E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-19,31-32,33-34 E13-15
2716 2716 E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 E13-15
2716 2716 2716 E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 E13-15
2716 2716 9316 E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-19,31-32,33-34 E13-15
2716 2716 2532 or 9332 E1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-34,29-33,31-32 E13-15
2732 2716 E4-13a, 7-8, 10-11, 12-GND, 16a-18, 31-32, 33-35 E13-15
2732 2732 E4-13a, 7-8, 10-11, 12-GND, 16a-29, 31-32, 33-35 E13-15
U1 ROM U2 ROM U6 ROM MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order Jumper CUTS

The -133 board was used in 3 games: Baby Pacman, Granny and the Gators, and Grand Slam. If you want to use a -133 board in a game that uses another board, you must change CR52 (a 1n4148 diode near J4) to a 2k resistor. If you want to use a -35 board in a game that requires a -133, change resistor R113 to a 1n4148 diode, banded end farthest away from J4. IMPORTANT: Before plugging the board in, measure the voltage at the MPU J4-15. If it is 6.3 VAC, this game requires a -133. If it is 43 VDC, the game requires the -35 configuration.

3.20.2 Bally AS-2518-17 and Stern MPU-100 Jumper Info

The following is a list of various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Bally -17 or STERN MPU-100 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts. The letter "E" has been eliminated on every jumper number after the first to save space. '9316 ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory. The "-DASH" between numbers means to jump one point to the other, e.g. E 1-2 means jump E1 to E2. Some jumps are very close to each other, others are much farther away. Some cuts in the traces must also be made on the solder or component side of the MPU board, so read the NOTES section below carefully.

U1 ROM U2 ROM U6 ROM MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order Jumper CUTS
9316 9316 E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10 Usual Factory Setting
2716 9316 E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10 Cut & Jumper See Note A
2716 2716 E1-2, 3-4, 6-7, 8-10 Cut & Jumper See Note B
2732 NONE E6-7, 8-10 Cut & Jumper See Note C
2732 2732 E1-2, 3-5, 6-7, 8-10 Cut & Jumper See Note D
74S474 74S474 2716 or 9316 1-2, 3-4, 8-9 Factory Setting for Freedom or Night Rider ONLY
2716 2716 See Note E Freedom/Night Rider ONLY
U1 ROM U2 ROM U6 ROM MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order Jumper CUTS
3.20.2.1 Notes to above Cut and Jumper Section

If a jumper combination is NOT listed in the chart above, this jumper must be cut or removed! Double check your work and verify that someone else has not modified the board before you begin the process. Incorrect jumper combinations will prevent the MPU from booting, showing a locked on MPU LED. This is a very common fault.

Note A, 2716 in U2, 9316 in U6
In addition to the jumpers listed above, you must also make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.

  1. On the component side of the -17 or MPU-100 board, cut the trace that runs from U2 pin 18 to U3 pin 18. Do this where the trace passes between sockets U2 and U3.
  2. On the solder side of the -17 board, run a jumper from U2 pin 18, to U17 pin 11.
  3. On the solder side of the -17 board, cut the trace going to U2 pin 21.
  4. On the solder side of the -17 board, run a jumper from U2 pin 21 to U2 pin 24.

Note B, 2716 in U2, 2716 in U6
In addition to the jumpers listed above, you must also make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration.

Make sure jumpers E1-2, E3-4, E6-7, and E8-10 are in place. Note: Trace cuts were completed using a "ball" cutter in a Dremel. The "cut" is marked with a black marker.

Reference the left picture.

  1. On the solder side of the -17 board, cut the trace leading to U18 pin 4.
  2. On the solder side of the -17 board, connect U18 pin 5 to the trace you cut leading to U18 pin 4. It's easiest to run the wire from U18 pin 5 to the via ("trace thru dot") that connects to this trace.

Reference the center picture.

  1. On the solder side of the board, cut the trace leading to U2 pin 21.
  2. On the solder side of the board, jumper from U2 pin 21 to U2 pin 24.

Reference the right picture.

  1. On the solder side of the board, cut the trace leading to U6 pin 21.
  2. On the solder side of the board, jumper from U6 pin 21 to U6 pin 24.
  • Note B Cuts and Jumpers
  • Solder Side Trace Reroute at U18 and "through hole" to U2, pin 18
  • U2 Cut and Jumper from pin 21 to pin 24
  • U6 Cut and Jumper from pin 21 to pin 24

Note C, Single 2732 at U2 for the early 1977 to 1979 games.
This modification combines the two original 9316 ROMs at U2 and U6 into a single 2732 EPROM at location U2. This configuration works for the following Bally games. This modification should also work for early Stern games with two original 9316 ROMs at U2 and U6.

  • Black Jack
  • Bobby Orr Power Play
  • Eight Ball
  • Evel Knievel
  • Mata Hari
  • Night Rider

To combine the original 9316 (or 2716) U2 and U6 ROM images into a single 2732 U2 image, use this DOS command:

COPY /B U2ROM.716 + U6ROM.716 U2COMBO.732

Make sure to use the "/b" switch when copying, as shown above. The command combines the two files into a single binary file.

Add the following cuts and jumpers to the -17 MPU to use this configuration.

Reference the left picture.

  1. Verify that jumper E6-E7 is in place. E8-E10 can remain in place or can be removed (i.e. "don't care") as it is only useful when U3 and/or U4 ROMs are used. Remove any jumpers at E1, E2, E3, E4, or E5. That is, remove all jumpers except E6-E7.

Reference the center picture.

  1. On the solder side of the -17 board, find U18 pin 4. Cut the trace close to pin 4 as shown below. In the picture below, a blue/black dot marks the cut made with a Dremel "ball cutter" bit.
  2. Scrape the solder mask from the trace leading to pin 4.
  3. Tack solder one end of a short length of wire (or resistor lead) to the bare trace. Solder the other end to U18 pin 5. This connects U18 pin 5 to U2 pin 18. You may choose an alternate method. Just be sure to connect the trace from the "trace through hole dot" to U18 pin 5.

Reference the right picture.

  1. On the component side of the board, locate U2 pin 13 (top right hand corner of U2). Slightly higher and to the right is a via "trace through hole" with a trace running straight down. Cut this trace to separate the via from the trace. In the picture below, the blue/black dot marks the location to cut.
  2. On the component side, jumper from the via noted in step 5 to pad E4 (red wire in picture below). This connects jumper pad E4 to U2 pin 21.
  3. On the component side, notice the large GROUND trace that runs down the board just to the right of the ROM sockets. To the right of the U2 ROM socket, scrape the solder mask from this large ground trace and add a jumper wire from this trace to pad E3 (orange wire/white tracer in picture below. Note that in this instance, U3 was also removed and the ground pad of U3 is used as a jumper point). This connects U2 pin 20 to ground.
  4. Use your multimeter to verify that continuity exists between jumpered points.
  • Note C Cuts and Jumpers
  • Component Side Jumper Locations
  • Solder Side Trace Reroute at U18 and "through hole" to U2, pin 18
  • Component Side Cut (black dot) and Jumper Detail

Note D, 2732 in both U2 & U6
This is a popular modification to the -17 & MPU-100 board as it maximizes the ROM space available and can accommodate almost every game from this period.

In addition to the jumpers listed above,make the following cuts and jumps to use this configuration. Make sure jumpers E1-2, E3-5, E6-7, and E8-10 are in place, & NO others are connected. It is a good idea to continuity check each of the necessary jumpers, BEFORE beginning work.

  1. On the solder side of the -17 or MPU-100 board, cut the trace that runs to U2 pin 21.
  2. On the component side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U2 pin 18. Best place to do this is where the trace passes between sockets U2 and U3. Use a mulitmeter continuity setting to figure out the trace to cut, and mark it with a Sharpie to avoid confusion and cutting of the wrong trace.
  3. On the solder side, jump a wire from U2 pin 18 to U2 pin 12.
  4. On the solder side, jump a wire from U2 pin 21 to U9 (6800CPU) pin 24.
  5. On the solder side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U6 pin 21.
  6. On the component side of the board, cut the trace that runs to U6 pin 18. A good place to do this is where the trace passes between sockets U6 and U5. Use your DMM's continuity setting to figure out the trace to cut.
  7. On the solder side, add a jumper from U6 pin 18 to U6 pin 12.
  8. On the solder side, jump a wire from U6 pin 21 to U2 pin 21 (this connects both U2 and U6 pins 21 to U9 pin 24).
  9. On the solder side, cut the trace that runs to U17 pin 2.
  10. On the solder side, cut the trace that runs to U18 pin 4.
  11. On the solder side, add a jumper from U17 pin 2 to U18 pin 4.
  • Note D Cuts and Jumpers
  • Component side cut locations
  • Solder side cuts and added jumpers

Note E Bally Freedom and Night Rider ONLY
These notes are for the Bally Freedom and Night Rider ROMs

These two games used an unique set of ROMs at U1 and U2. These are 74S474 or 7461 (512 byte) ROMs at U1 and U2, and a 9316 or 2716 (2K byte) at U6. According to Williams tech, they state that a U1 2716 EPROM and a U6 2716 EPROM can be used for these two games.If using a -17 or M-100 MPU with a U1 2716 EPROM and U6 2716 EPROM, there are some cuts and jumps required:

  1. Cut the trace from U1 pin 18 to U2 pin 18.
  2. Cut the trace from U1 pin 21 to pad E7.
  3. On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 21 to U1 pin 24.
  4. On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 18 to U17 pin 11.
  5. On the solder side, add a jumper from U1 pin 22 to U2 pin 22.

3.20.3 Stern MPU-200 Jumper Info

The following is a list or various ROM and EPROM combinations that can be used with the Stern MPU-200 board and the associated jumpers and jumper cuts. 9316 ROMS are the "Black" masked ROMS originally supplied by the factory, used on the first few MPU-200 games. Stern switched almost exclusively to a 4x2716 configuration sometime around Seawitch through the end of their run and various boards have been spotted in the wild that seem factory with 2x2732 configuration. Galaxy has been spotted with an oddball 3x9316 + 1x2716 configuration.

 U1 ROM   U2 ROM   U5 ROM   U6 ROM   MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order  Jumper CUTS 
 (empty)  2716  (empty)  2716  2-3, 5-7, 13-14, 16-18, 23-25, 32-33, 34-35  All others
 9316  9316  9316  9316  1-5, 2-6, 8-9, 12-13, 16-18, 19-20, 22-25, 26-28, 29-31, 32-33, 34-35  All others
 9316  2716  9316  9316  2-3, 5-7, 8-9, 12-13, 16-18, 19-20, 22-25, 26-28, 29-31, 32-33, 34-35   All others
 9316  9316  9316  2716  1-5, 2-6, 8-9, 13-14, 16-18, 19-20, 23-25, 26-28, 29-31, 32-33  All others
 2716  2716  2716  2716  2-3, 5-7, 9-10, 13-14, 16-18, 19-21, 23-25, 27-28, 29-30, 32-33, 34-35   All others
 (empty)  2732  (empty)  2732  1-2, 4-5, 13-15, 16-18, 24-25, 32-33, 34-35  All others
 U1 ROM  U2 ROM  U5 ROM  U6 ROM  MPU Jumpers in Numeric Order  Jumper CUTS 

To combine the 9316 or 2716 ROM images into the proper format 2732 images, use the following MSDOS commands.

  • copy /b U1ROM.716 + U2ROM.716 U2Combined.732
  • copy /b U5ROM.716 + U6ROM.716 U6Combined.732

Note that jumpers 32-33 and 34-35 control the clock speed of the MPU-200. To use an MPU-200 in a game that normally uses a Bally -17/-35 or a Stern MPU-100 board, you should remove these jumpers as they will cause the software to run faster. This isn't really a problem, but timings of sound events might be affected as well as other unforeseen consequences. If using a MPU-200 board in a Bally -17 or -35 or a Stern MPU-100 game, you should remove the 5101 RAM at U13, as it will not be accessed directly. (Some of the software depends on the values being read with the lower nibble high (1111 or $F) - they will load the byte expecting $1f for instance and if you leave U13 in, it will return either random values or more likely $10). If the chip or socket at U13 is bad, it can be ignored. This however is a waste of resources, as the MPU-200 board is hard to find and cannot be substituted by a -17 or -35 board without some modifications.

Additionally, if all 32 dip switches are turned off upon boot with an MPU-200, it will flash seven times and jump into self-test mode. This will toggle alternatively every solenoid, flashing controlled lamps, and test each digit on the score displays. At least one DIP switch must be on to avoid this. This is not a function of the board itself, just the software used. For example, if you put earlier stern software (previous to Meteor) or any Bally software in an MPU-200, it will not enter self-test with all dips off.

  • To down-grade the MPU-200 to the older MPU-100, remove jumpers 32-33 and 34-35 (used on all Stern MPU-200 EPROM configurations), and remove the 5101 RAM chip from U13.
  • The MPU-200, when jumpered for four 2716 EPROMS (U1,U2,U5,U6), will run Bally games using three 2716 (U1,U2,U6) ERPOMs.
  • On a MPU-200 configured for four 2716 EPROMs (U1,U2,U5,U6), to run Bally games using two 2716 (U2,U6) EPROMs, change the MPU-200's jumpers E13-14 to E13-15, and E5-7 to E1-5.


3.20.4 Using a single 2732 at U2 in a -35 MPU for Bally games originally released with a -17 MPU

Bally games released with a -17 MPU can use a single 2732 at position U2 of a -35 MPU.

This includes the following games:

  • Black Jack
  • Bobby Orr Power Play
  • Bow and Arrow
  • Eight Ball
  • Evel Knievel
  • Freedom
  • Mata Hari
  • Night Rider

Install the following jumpers.

E12-Gnd ...connects U2 /CE ~ Pin 18 to Gnd
E11-E15 and E35-E16A ...connects U2 /OE ~ Pin 20 to /VUA-O2-A12
E13-E9 ...connects U2 A11 ~ Pin 21 to A11
E7-E8 ...connects U2 A9 ~ Pin 22 to A9

Remove any jumper at E13A above U1.
Other jumpers should be irrelevant.

The original 2716 ROM images can be be combined using the DOS command: copy /b U2.716+U6.716 CombinedU2.732

3.20.5 Bally -35 2764 EPROM Conversion

These instructions will convert a Bally -35 MPU to use a single 2764 EPROM. Colors in the table will match the wire colors in the example photos.

Bally -35 MPU - 2764 EPROM Conversion Instructions
1. Remove any PROMs or EPROMs from U1, U2, U3, U4, U5 and U6.
2.

Bend out pins 1, 2, 27, and 28 on a 28 pin EPROM socket so we can solder wires to the pins and install it in socket U2 on the MPU. Pin 26 of the EPROM is not connected. I usually remove this pin from the socket but you can just bend it out and not connect anything to it.

3.

Ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E4, E13, E13a, E11, E9, E12, and E35.

4.

Connect jumpers E7 and E8. This connects EPROM A9 to CPU A9.

5.

Connect EPROM socket pins 1, 27 and 28 to +5V. I chose to use pin 24 of U3 as the source for +5V. This wire is RED in my examples.

6.

Connect EPROM pin 2 (A12) to jumper location E4 (A14). This wire is pink in my examples.

7.

Connect jumper location E12 to ground. I use the large ground trace closest to E12. That will connect EPROM CE to ground. This wire is BLACK in my examples.

8.

Connect jumper positions E9 and E13A. That will connect EPROM A11 to CPU A11. This wire is green in my examples.
NOTE: There is an error on the Bally schematic which shows jumper position E13 connected in common with E13A. This is an error and E13A will need to be used for this step.

9.

Connect jumper position E11 to the side of resistor R14 closest to the EPROM socket. That will connect EPROM OE to the output of the gate at U17A. That is an enable that combines CPU A12, VMA and phase 2 of the clock creating an enable that we can use for our EPROM. We could also use jumper location E35 but R14 is closer and makes for a cleaner installation, in my opinion. This wire is yellow in my examples.


  • Bally -35 2764 EPROM Conversion
  • PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 1.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 2.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 3.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 4.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 35 2764 conversion 5.jpg

3.20.6 Bally -17 And Stern MPU-100 2764 EPROM Conversion

These instructions will convert a Bally -17 or Stern MPU-100 MPU to use a single 2764 EPROM. Colors in the table will match the wire colors in the example photos.

Bally -17 And Stern MPU-100 - 2764 EPROM Conversion Instructions
1. Remove any PROMs or EPROMs from U1, U2, U3, U4, U5 and U6.
2.

Bend out pins 1, 2, 20, 23, 27, and 28 on a 28 pin EPROM socket so we can solder wires to the pins and install it in socket U2 on the MPU. Pin 26 of the EPROM is not connected. I usually remove this pin from the socket but you can just bend it out and not connect anything to it.

3.

Ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E3, E4, and E8.

4.

Connect EPROM socket pins 1, 27 and 28 to +5V. I chose to use pin 24 of U3 as the source for +5V. This wire is RED in my examples.

5.

Next we need to connect EPROM A12 (pin 2) to CPU A14 (pin 24 of U9). The problem is that there are no jumper locations on the -17 and MPU-100 that are connected to A14 so we have to connect directly to pin 24 of the Motorola 6800 (U9). One option is to run the wire over the top of the board to the back (solder side) but I wanted to make my conversions look as clean as possible so I use pin 20 of U3 as a through hole to get to the other side of the board. So we connect pin 2 of the EPROM to pin 20 of U3 on the components side of the board then connect pin 20 of U3 to pin 24 of U9 on the solder side of the board. This makes for a clean looking conversion on the components side of the MPU. If you're going to use this method you need to ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E8. This wire is pink in my examples.

6.

Connect EPROM pin 20 (CE) to ground. I like to use the large ground trace closest to the EPROM socket. This wire is black in my examples.

7.

Connect jumper E3 to the side of resistor R14 closest to the EPROM socket. That will connect EPROM OE to the output of the gate at U17A. That is an enable that combines CPU A12, VMA and phase 2 of the clock creating an enable that we can use for our EPROM.

8.

Connect EPROM pin 23 to jumper location E4. That will connect EPROM A11 to CPU A11. This wire is green in my examples.


  • Bally -17 and Stern MPU-100 2764 EPROM Conversion
  • PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 1.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 2.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 3.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 4.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 5.jpg
  • PinWiki dash 17 2764 conversion 6.jpg

3.20.7 Stern MPU-200 2764 EPROM Conversion

These instructions will convert a Stern MPU-200 to use a single 2764 EPROM. Colors in the table will match the wire colors in the example photos.

NOTE: You may need to first convert your board to use two 2732 EPROMs before applying this conversion. If you leave the board configured for another rom setup; you may note the board will not flash the diag LED.

Stern MPU-200 - 2764 EPROM Conversion Instructions
1. Remove any PROMs or EPROMs from U1, U2, U3, U4, U5 and U6.
2.

Bend out pins 1, 27, and 28 on a 28 pin EPROM socket so we can solder wires to the pins and install it in socket U2 on the MPU. Pin 26 of the EPROM is not connected. I usually remove this pin from the socket but you can just bend it out and not connect anything to it.

3.

Ensure that there are no jumpers connected to E2, E4, E5, E6, E10, E17, and E18.

4.

Connect EPROM socket pins 1, 27 and 28 to +5V. I chose to use pin 24 of U3 as the source for +5V. This wire is RED in my examples.

5.

Connect EPROM pin 2 to jumper location E10. This wire is pink in my examples.

6.

Connect jumper location E5 to E4.

7.

Connect jumper location E17 to E18.

8.

Connect jumper location E2 to E6


  • Stern MPU-200 2764 EPROM Conversion
  • PinWiki MPU 200 2764 conversion 1.jpg
  • PinWiki MPU 200 2764 conversion 2.jpg
  • PinWiki MPU 200 2764 conversion 3.jpg

3.20.8 Bally/Stern ROM Memory Map

ROM images based on 2732 EPROMs are available on the net for all Bally and Stern machines so I'll give an example of the ROM memory map using these as the example. This is important to consider when doing single EPROM conversions because you will need to create a custom ROM image from original game code.

ROM image Memory Location (Hex) Memory Location (Decimal)
U2 First half:$1000-$17FF(Decimal: 4096-6143)
U2 Second half:$5000-$57FF(Decimal: 20480-22527)
U6 First half:$1800-$1FFF(Decimal: 6144-8191)
U6 Second half:$5800-$5FFF(Decimal: 22528-24575)


3.20.9 Creating A 2764 ROM Image From 2732/2532 ROM files

This is one way to create a 2764 EPROM image.

1. Download the game code. Most should be available from ipdb.org.
2. Download Oliver's Vector home ROM files here. The archive will contain fsp.exe which we will use below to split the ROM images in half.
3. Open a command (DOS) prompt and navigate to the directory where you unzipped the Vector home ROM file downloaded above. You will also want to have your 2732 game code images in this directory. What we are going to do is split the ROM images in half creating 4 new files. Here is the command syntax:

fsp U2_2732_image.bin U2_split fsp U6_2732_image.bin U6_split

Where U2_2732_image.bin and U6_2732_image.bin are the names of the U2 and U6 ROM images and U2_split and U6_split are the prefixes for the output files.

We should now have files named U2_split-0, U2_split-1, U6_split-0 and U6_split-1.

4. Now we can issue this command to create our image:

copy /b U2_split-0 + U6_split-0 + U2_split-1 + U6_split-1 2764_ROM_Image.bin

The command above must be entered as one string.

This will create a file called 2764_ROM_Image.bin. Burn that to your EPROM and you're ready to go!

3.21 Attract Mode Test Points

3.21.1 Rectifier Board Test Point Values

Bally
Model TP1 TP2 TP3 TP4 TP5
AS-2518-18 +5.4 +/-.8VDC +230 +/-27.4VDC +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC 7.3 +/-.9VAC +43 +/-5.4VDC
AS-2518-49 +5.4 +/-.8VDC +230 +/-27.4VDC +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC 7.3 +/-.9VAC +43 +/-5.4VDC
AS-2518-54
AS-2518-132

Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3

Stern
Model TP1 TP2 TP3 TP4 TP5
TA-100 +5.4VDC +230VDC +11.9VDC 7.3VAC +43VDC

3.21.2 MPU Test Point Values

Model TP1 TP2 TP3 TP4 TP5
AS-2518-17 +5 +/-.25VDC +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC +21.5 +/- 2.7VDC GND +5 +/-.25VDC
AS-2518-35 +5 +/-.25VDC +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC +21.5 +/- 2.7VDC GND +5 +/-.25VDC
AS-2518-133 +5 +/-.25VDC +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC GND +5 +/-.25VDC

Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3

3.21.3 Lamp Driver Test Point Values

Model Board Type TP1 TP2 TP3 TP4 TP5
AS-2518-14 Lamp Driver +5 +/-.25VDC GND
AS-2518-23 Lamp Driver +5 +/-.25VDC GND
AS-2518-43 Aux Lamp Driver +5 +/-.25VDC GND
AS-2518-52 Aux Lamp Driver +5 +/-.25VDC GND

Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3

3.21.4 Solenoid Driver/Regulator Test Point Values

Model Board Type TP1 TP2 TP3 TP4 TP5
AS-2518-16 Solenoid Driver +5 +/-.25VDC +190 +/-5VDC +5 +/-.25VDC +230 +/-27.4VDC +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC
AS-2518-22 Solenoid Driver +5 +/-.25VDC +190 +/-5VDC +5 +/-.25VDC +230 +/-27.4VDC +11.9 +/- 1.40VDC
AS-2518-107 Combo Lamp/Solenoid Driver
AS-2518-147 Combo Lamp/Solenoid Driver

Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3

3.21.5 Sound Test Point Values

Model Board Type TP1 TP2 TP3 TP4 TP5 TP6 TP7 TP8 TP9 TP10 TP11 TP12 TP13
AS-2518-32 Sound +5 +/-.25VDC GND +12.5 +/-1.3VDC +43 +/-5.4VDC SOL RET N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
AS-2518-50 Sound +5 +/-.25VDC GND +12.5 +/-1.3VDC +43 +/-5.4VDC SOL RET N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
AS-2518-51 Sound +11.9 +/- 2.5VDC +5 +/-.25VDC GND 0VDC (No Sound), 2.5+/-.2VDC (Sound) +2.5 +/-.2VDC 0VAC (No Sound), .35 +/-.1VAC (Sound) N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
AS-2518-56 Sound +11.9 +/- 2.5VDC +5 +/-.25VDC GND 0VDC (No Sound), 2.5VDC (Sound) +2.5 +/-.2VDC 0VAC (No Sound), .35 +/-.1VAC (Sound) N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
AS-2518-57 Vocalizer GND +5 +/-.25VDC Analog Output Digital Input Speech Clock N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
AS-2518-61 Sound GND +5 +/-.25VDC +11.5VDC -5VDC Speech Volume Control Voltage Sound Volume Control Voltage AY-3-8912 Output E TMS5200 Output VMA TMS5200 Clock Reset
AS-2518-81 Reverb GND Audio In +11.9VDC +12VDC +4VDC to +8VDC
M-051-00114-B045 Sound

Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3

Model Board Type TP1 TP2 TP3 TP4 TP5 TP6 TP7 TP8 TP9
SB-100 Sound +5VDC Frequency adjustment for R6 pot Frequency adjustment for R2 pot GND Frequency adjustment for R13 pot Vdd +11.6VDC +6.2VDC +10VDC
SB-300 Sound Analog GND +12VDC +10VDC +5VDC Clock input for U18 GND N/A N/A N/A

3.21.6 Display Module Test Point Values

Model Board Type TP1 TP2 TP3
AS-2518-15 Display Module +5 +/-.25VDC +190 +/-5VDC GND
AS-2518-21 Display Module +5 +/-.25VDC +190 +/-5VDC GND
AS-2518-58 Display Module +5 +/-.25VDC +190 +/-5VDC GND
AS-2518-121 Vidiot

Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3

3.22 Fuse Values

Bally
Model Board Type F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7
AS-2518-18 Power Supply 10A, 32V 3AG 3/4A, 250V 3AG 4A, 32V 3AG 5A, 32V 3AG 20A, 32V 3AG 3A, 32V 3AG SB N/A
AS-2518-22 Solenoid Driver 3/16A, 250V 8AG
(can be modified to accept 3AG)		 N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
AS-2518-49 Power Supply 20A, 32V 3AG 3/4A, 250V 3AG 4A, 32V 3AG 5A, 32V 3AG 20A, 32V 3AG N/A N/A
AS-2518-54 Power Supply 20A, 32V 3AG 3/4A, 250V 3AG 4A, 32V 3AG 5A, 32V 3AG 20A, 32V 3AG N/A N/A
AS-2518-107 Combo Lamp/Solenoid Driver N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
AS-2518-132 Power Supply
AS-2518-147† HV Lamp/Solenoid Combo 3/16A, 250V 8AG
(can be modified to accept 3AG)		 N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
AS-2518-151† Power Supply 6A, 250V 3AG 5A, 250V 3AG 3/4A, 250V 3AG 8A, 32V 3AG 8A, 32V 3AG 8A, 32V 3AG 8A, 32V 3AG

Source: Bally Electronic Pinball Games Repair Procedures, F.O. 560-3 except †Source: Bally Midway GOLD BALL Manual

Unless noted as slow blow (SB), all fuses are fast blow.

Stern
Model Board Type F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7
TA-100 Power Supply 10A, 32V 3AG 3/4A, 250V 3AG, SB 4A, 32V 3AG 5A or 7A or 7.5A †, 250V 3AG, SB 20A, 32V 3AG 3A, 250V 3AG, SB N/A

Unless noted as slow blow (SB), all fuses are fast blow.

† Games that use a 16B-6 transformer & MPU-200 may take a 5A, 7A, or 7.5A fuse at F4, as specified on each individual game's schematics.

Stern TA-100 F4 Fuse Values
Game F4 Fuse Value
Ali 5A
Big Game 7.5A
Catacomb 7A
Cheetah 7A
Cue ?
Dragonfist 7A
Flight 2000 7A
Freefall 7A
Galaxy 5A
Lightning 7A
Meteor 5A
Nine Ball 7A
Orbitor 1 7A
Quicksilver 7A
Seawitch 7A
Split Second 7A
Star Gazer 7A
Viper 7A



Various Bally and Stern games have under playfield fuses as well. A common symptom of a blown playfield fuse is flippers operational, but no other on playfield solenoids work. This is because the flippers draw too much current for the under playfield fuse (which is usually 1 or 2 amp), so they are connected before the fuse is in the circuit. The main solenoid fuse on the rectifier board is used to protect against a shorted flipper coil instead.

Sometimes a large under playfield mechanism will be fused separately. Gottlieb did this often, but it is rarer in Bally/Stern games. Examples of the games with auxiliary fuses under the playfield are Silverball Mania and Eight Ball Deluxe. If you have a solenoid not working it doesn't hurt to check and see if it has a fuse, or if someone decided to add one in the past. The under playfield solenoid fuse is a very small value, as for the most part Bally/Stern games are only able to fire one solenoid at a time. This is a limitation of the hardware design, as the 4-to-16 decoder chip on the solenoid driver board can only decode one of 15 signals to fire an associated solenoid.

Some games do utilize the remaining 4 continuous drivers for a momentary coil. (One example is the ball walker area in Flight 2000 - the 2 kickers are activated by the continuous solenoids, for a momentary period). You should identify which under playfield solenoids if any are used as such in your game and add a fuse to the activation (single, thinner wire) side of the coil to prevent a software glitch from locking on that coil. Simply splice it inline with the single wire and use a 1 amp fast blow fuse to protect the driver circuit and coil in the case of a lockup. It would only be necessary to add the fuse for large loaded coils - relay or high resistance coils like on a flag gate or pop-up post coil relay do not place such a great load on the driving transistor that it is in any danger of burning out.

Weak playfield solenoids can be caused by a weak connection on the under playfield fuse holder. Remove the fuse and check for proper tension on the fuse clips for any tarnishing. It is best to just replace suspect fuse holders with new vs. attempting to clean the originals.

3.23 Proprietary Numbers on Chips

Some Bally IC chips are marked with proprietary Bally part numbers, and no other markings are present. Below is a list of some of the most common chips found on Bally boards, and the more commonly referred to chip.

  • 620-28 - 6800 CPU chip
  • 620-29 - 6820 PIA chip
  • 620-30 - 6810 RAM chip
  • 620-37 - 14514 / 4514 CMOS 4-Bit Latch / 4-to-16 Line Decoder chip
  • 620-38 - 14534 / 4543 CMOS BCD-to-Seven-Segment Latch / Decoder / Driver chip
  • 620-39 - 74L154 4 to 16 decoder chip (can sub with 74HCT154)
  • 620-125 - 6808 CPU chip



3.24 Flippers

3.24.1 Identification of Different Flipper Assemblies

  • Bally & Stern Flipper Assemblies
  • Early Bally Flipper mechanism from a 1978 Star Trek
  • Later Bally Flipper mechanism from a 1981 Medusa. Commonly referred to as "linear flippers". Note-Double EOS switch for Upper Zipper Flipper
  • Early Stern Flipper mechanism (Generation 1) from a 1979 Dracula. Note-Double EOS switch for Upper Flipper
  • Later Stern Flipper mechanism (Generation 2) from a 1981 Star Gazer


3.25 Accessing Bookkeeping and Diagnostic Modes

  • Bally and Stern Coin Door Test Buttons
  • Bally -17 and -35 Coin Door Test Button (L:Early -17, R:Late -35)
  • Stern -100 Coin Door Test Button (L:Early, R:Late)
  • Stern -200 Coin Door Buttons



The game must be working properly for the test button to function at all. The test button is not within the game switch matrix. It merely grounds pin 1 of MPU connector J3, (note that the ground wire for this switch connects to the solenoid driver board at pin J2-7, not the MPU board as one would expect). The switch itself is surprisingly resilient to beer/soda. Most failures of continuity to the MPU circuitry are due to either the connector pin in the female housing, or due to fractured solder joints on the male header.

With the exception of Stern -200 based games, pressing the test button the first time will enter the lamp test. All cpu controlled lamps will flash on and off including backbox lamps. This test will put the greatest load on the rectifier bridge as well as the connectors, enabling you to see "weak" connections.

Pressing the button for the first time with a Stern -200 based game will start a "burn in" test (lamps, displays, and solenoids will all be tested at the same time).

The second press of the test button will bring you into display test. Digits from 0-9 will appear on all displays in sequence, enabling inspection of the display elements. This test will not assist in some problems that can occur in displays concerning digit decoding, nor problems where one display ghosts its information onto another, as all displays are displaying the same information. Some games will "walk" an eight across the displays in a sequence enabling issues with decoders to be determined.

The third press of the test button will start a solenoid test. For Bally games, only the solenoids installed in that particular game will be tested, with their corresponding number showing on the displays. Most Stern games will test all solenoid driver circuits regardless of if they are utilized in that game or not. For this reason, it is desirable to test a solenoid board with Stern software to be able to test all components of the solenoid drive circuit (especially if you are fixing a board foreign to your game). After all solenoids are tested, Stern games will test the sound board during solenoid test, while Bally games will not.

With Bally -17 games and all Stern games, the fourth press of the test button will start a switch test. The lowest numbered stuck or closed switch will show in the displays. If there are no stuck switches a zero will show in the match display. NOTE: Multiple closed switches will NOT display anything other than the lowest numbered switch. This can be an issue with various switch matrix diode problems, as the switch displayed as closed may not be the switch with a problem. There is a special test rom available that will show ALL closed switches in a sequence similar to how Williams' machines did so. The special test ROM can be downloaded here.

With Bally -35 games, the fourth press of the test button will initiate a sound test. The same sound will be played repeatedly until the test is exited.

The fifth press of the test button will start switch test with Bally -35 games, and start the audits/settings with all other games. Regardless, subsequent presses will get you into audit/adjustment mode; you will see an 01 in the match display when you are at the first adjustment.

4 First Things First (WIP)

As exciting as it may be to acquire a pinball machine, there are several things which should be done before turning one on, or even plugging it in for that matter. It may have been plugged in where it was purchased, but there may be some hidden issues looming inside the game. Following this systematic approach should be very beneficial.

4.1 Keep Game Unplugged Until Further Notice

When fixing a game of unknown origin, it is best to initially keep it unplugged. There are several things which should be inspected on game, and these things require the game to be unplugged. While it's unplugged, make certain that the 3-prong is present on the line cord, and is actually connected to the earth ground of the game. Likewise, if the 3-prong plug was ever changed in its life, it's a good idea to remove the cover of the plug, and inspect how the wires are connected to the terminal screws of the replacement plug.

After looking over the line cord plug, inspect the line cord. Make certain that there are no nicks or cuts in the cord, deeming it unsafe. Pinball Resource carries an inexpensive, flat, 3-conductor, 14ft. line cord. Next, move to the inside of the cabinet. Make certain that the line cord is securely soldered to the terminals on the line filter. Equally, make certain the ground of the line cord is fastened to the earth ground of the cabinet.

4.2 Check All of the Fuses

It is highly recommended to check all of the fuses in the game. This includes the fuses on the rectifier board. However, on some games, there are fuses also located under the playfield (for solenoids), on the cabinet wall (for chime coils), behind the display panel (for displays on early Stern games), and / or on the solenoid driver board (for the displays). As mentioned, not all games have fuses in these locations, but be on the look out for them. The best way to make certain that all of the correct fuses go in the correct places is to first remove all of the fuses. Once they are removed, use an ohmmeter or DMM, and check continuity across all of the fuses. Once the fuse have been checked, start placing them back into their proper locations. By removing all of the fuses, the user is forced to put the correct values in the correct locations. Fuses can be kept in the game, but if checking continuity, one side of the fuse must be removed from the fuse holder to attain an accurate reading.

4.3 Inspect the Circuit Boards

  • Burnt / scorched portions of board
  • Battery rot on MPU
  • Battery rot on lamp driver board and other boards
  • Bulging caps on SDB


4.4 Inspect / Test the Circuit Board Components

  • Quick test on the solenoid transistors


4.5 Inspect the Circuit Board Connections

  • Wires soldered directly to rec. board.
  • Connectors destroyed due to battery rot


4.6 Check the Solenoids

  • Physically move plungers in coils
  • Check solenoid resistance
  • Don't forget hidden coils, such as knocker, chimes, and coin lockout
  • Check EOS switches on flippers


4.7 Inspect Harness Wiring

  • Make sure screw is secured for ground braid between head and cabinet
  • Make sure cabinet ground braid is connected to ground (gets ripped / torn)
  • Look for cuts on coin door wiring
  • Look for unsoldered / cut wires "floating around"
  • Look for burns / scorching

4.8 Plug It In and Turn It On

  • Plug in minimal amount of boards
  • Start w/ input to rec. board
  • Plug in 20 pin head harness to rec. board next
  • Plug in upper right of SDB next
  • Plug in lower left of MPU next
  • Plug in upper left of LDB next
  • Plug in all others on LDB next
  • Plug in upper left of MPU next
  • Plug in lower right and all others on SDB
  • Listen for locked on coils
  • Plug in upper right and lower right of MPU




5 Problems and Solutions

5.1 Connectors

Vibration, heat, poor storing conditions, and in some cases alkali damage all take their toll on the connectors used in a pinball machine. Both the male header pins and crimp connectors within plastic housings, (in rare instances, IDC connectors too), are susceptible to the aforementioned conditions. Likewise, some previous person may have performed work on the game which got the job done, but was not necessarily the proper or most desirable way to do it.

Since the backbone to a properly and reliably functioning game is the connectors, spend some time inspecting all of the connectors in the game, before turning it on for the first time. If any connectors appear to be suspect, repair or replace the connector involved. The best practice is to replace both the male headers and the crimp connectors, if a specific area has seen some sort of damage from heat, oxidation, or alkali damage. In most every case, the plastic or nylon connector housings can be reused, if the crimp connectors are carefully removed.

5.1.1 The Importance of Keying Plugs

Connector as found on a Stern Rectifier Board J3 Connector
Connector as found on a Stern Rectifier Board J1 Connector
Connector repinned, keying plug installed, and proper housing for Stern Rectifier Board J3 Connector

In addition to connectors, keying plugs play a large role in a game. Every .100" and .156" header connection has one pin removed. The purpose of this practice is to differentiate between connectors with minimal effort. The compliment housing will have a keying plug installed in the position where the header pin is absent. This was done originally at the factory. However, if a connector was replaced or repinned, a person who previously worked on the machine may not have installed a new keying plug.

Two examples of connectors without keying plugs can be seen in the pics on the left. This game had its wiring harness removed, so the connectors were not placed in their proper positions, and had to be reinstalled. The problem with the first pic is these two .156" 10-pin housings were being used in lieu of the proper, single .156" 20-pin housing at the J3 connection of the rectifier board. The potential to incorrectly plug these two connectors onto the J3 header is extremely high. Because neither housing had a key installed, plus two housings were used instead of one, there are at least four different ways that this connector could be connected. Incorrectly plugging the connector onto the header may have caused extreme unnecessary damage to several of the circuit boards.

In the lower pic to the left, the connector which goes onto J1 of the rectifier boards was missing a key too. In addition to possibly being plugged in upside down, this connector just as easily could have been plugged in one pin off. If the connector was installed incorrectly, the results would not have been good.

Considering the overall cost of a keying plug (around $0.25) it is well worth the small cost and effort it takes to install one. It can potentially save the user from unnecessary and costly repairs to the game. If you simply do not have a keying plug and can't remove the old one from the connector, you can use a square toothpick or a Qtip shaft cut down slightly to make one. It is a hack but it's better than destroying good boards and components.

5.1.2 So, Just What is this Green Slime?

Typical Blue-Green Slime, sometimes found on Bally/Stern header pins.


Sometimes, a blue-green slime seems to be "bleeding" from a header pin connector. This is most likely the insulation coating breaking down into a slime. The best course of action, for long term reliability, is to repin both the male and female sides of the connector, getting rid of the slime as you go.

5.2 Powering up the first time

Thanks to Bally's decision to modularize their system, there is a technique you can use to save yourself some headaches when you first power up a machine. This method connects one section/board at a time and allows you to test each board thoroughly before moving onto the next so you can isolate any issues to one board. This method concentrates on the -18, -49, and all stern games rectifier boards. The -54 rectifier board on later Bally games would employ a slightly different technique.

Disconnect all connectors from the mpu, lamp, sound (if present) and solenoid driver boards. Disconnect J1 and J3 from the rectifier board. Leave J2 connected. Check all the fuses for proper values on the rectifier board. Power on the game, watching to see if any fuses blow. Use a meter and test each test point on the rectifier board to ensure proper voltage is present (remember some of the voltages are AC). Get the rectifier board working 100%.

Turn the game off and reconnect J3 to the solenoid driver board. Connect J3 to the rectifier board as well. Power on the game and repeat the voltage tests on all the test points on the rectifier and solenoid driver board. Investigate any suspect voltages and correct any faults found. Keep in mind that the displays use both the high voltage and +5 voltage so it might be a good idea to remove the displays from the circuit, also.

RottenDog Solenoid Driver/Voltage Regulator

A RottenDog high voltage regulator, a TL783.


The RottenDog solenoid driver board uses a TL783 voltage regulator to create display High voltage which should be about 185VDC. This voltage regulator isn’t designed to work as it has been implemented on this board. If the TL783 fails, and they do quite often with this implementation, the full 240VDC will be sent to your displays. This will cause the displays to develop “zits” and fail prematurely.

Once the solenoid driver board tests ok, connect J4 to the mpu board. Do not reconnect any other connectors to any other boards at this point. Power on the game; if all is well, you will see the mpu board start its LED flash sequence. This is where the majority of repairs will take place; there's no point in hooking other boards up until you have a solid rectifier, solenoid driver/power regulator, mpu board combination working.

After/if the mpu board is booting, add the rest of the connectors back in. When you add the playfield's connectors back in and power up, listen for any solenoids locking on at power-up. Repair the solenoid circuits before proceeding if any do lock on.

At each step in the chain, be sure to inspect and repair any and all connectors in the circuits. Often the connectors get tarnished and do not conduct well enough for reliable game operation. Do not try to clean or sand any suspect connectors - this is a temporary fix at best and only delays the inevitable task of replacement.

Using this method for powering up the game for the first time ensures that any issues you encounter will be isolated to the last piece you added in. Diagnosing and repairing one board at a time is much simpler than multiples.

5.3 Rectifier Board Issues

5.3.1 -18, Stern Rectifier boards

The rectifier board takes the AC voltage from the transformer and uses bridge rectification to convert those voltages to DC. No filtering is done on the rectifier board (that's the solenoid driver/power supply board's job). Depending on the generation of board, there are varying amounts of discrete diodes or bridge rectifiers that produce the DC voltages needed. Additionally, all of the circuits have a fuse for protection in the event of a short on this board.

Putting a meter on the test points across the top of the board will tell you if you're missing any voltages. Refer to the schematics or the charts above to determine the proper voltages at each test point, and remember that some of the voltage outputs are AC volts. If there are any missing voltages investigate further to determine the cause. The main issues with the rectifier board are cracked header pins, bad bridges, poor fuse clips, and poor connections on through hole vias.

If you do nothing else to your power supply, replace the header pins and the connectors that connect to them. The pins are usually burnt beyond usage as are the connector pins. (Often, operators chopped the harness connectors off and soldered the wires directly to the pins as a "fix".) You can get 10 amp header pins from various suppliers that are more robust than the original 7 amp versions. Often just this change alone will fix many lamp "wavering" problems you see on games with lots of feature lamps.

When you replace the header pins consider prying up the plastic insulator piece slightly that keeps the pins in place so you can solder to the top and bottom of each pin. This technique will cure any problems with vias you have and obviate the need for jumper wires that accomplish the same thing. After soldering you can push the insulator piece back down.

Many times the fuse clips are weak or aren't making good contact with the fuses. If you inspect the fuse clips and they are tarnished at all, replace them. Any fuse rated at 4 amps or more use a high current fuse clip to eliminate issues in the future with that circuit. Lower value fuses can use lower current clips with no problem. Solder the fuse clips bottom and top where appropriate for maximal mechanical strength and conductivity.

It's a good idea to replace the discrete diode bridge for the high voltage score display with 1N4007 diodes mounted slightly off the board (about 1/4") so that air can circulate all around them. Solder the leads top and bottom where appropriate. The power resistors should be replaced also with a slight air gap below them to help with cooling. It is possible to approximately double the size of the power resistors (25 ohm to 47 ohm, 600 ohm to 1.3k ohm) to help with the heat dissipated Resistor/temperature discussion although the final test results were not posted.

If you need to replace any bridges, the original style VJ248 bridge can be replaced on the -18 board with a wire lead 25 or 35 amp bridge rectifier. The notch in the bridge is the positive + output; diagonally opposite this lead is the DC negative -. The other 2 leads are the AC inputs and are interchangeable. You have to bend the leads slightly to get them to fit in the smaller VJ248 solder pads. Mark the top of the board with the positive, negative, and AC leads so you don't solder the bridge off by mistake.

If you decide to use the original style bridge, make sure it's not thicker than the other bridges in any other position. The 3 bridges must lie flat against the heat sink slug for proper cooling. The best way to install a replacement VJ248 of the same thickness is to put the bridge in place, then bolt the slug back onto all 3 bridges. Solder the replacement bridge in place. Reinstall the slug with heat sink compound (available at computer supply stores or Radio Shack) smeared in a single thin layer on each bridge surface, and the slug surfaces. Use the least amount possible to get a good even layer; more is not better.

After replacing any parts, test your work with only the J2 cabinet connector installed. Never over fuse a circuit unless the manual for the game specifies; for instance, games with more than 2 flippers often recommend a larger fuse for the solenoid circuit to handle the additional load multiple flipper coils place on the fuse.

5.3.2 Bally -54 Rectifier board

Bally -54 Rectifier Board (Component Side)
Bally -54 Rectifier Board (Solder Side)


The weak link of this generation of rectifier board are the CR1-CR4 diodes (originally 1n4004, replace with 1n4007 - not so much for the added power capacity, but for the increased heat dissipation) and CR5-CR8 (6 amp at least 50v diodes). The original bridges are much hardier on this generation of rectifier board. If you do need to replace a bridge, the best way is to install it and bolt it onto the bottom mounting plate, then solder it into place. The bottom mounting plate acts as a heat sink for the bridges.

BR1 is for the feature lamps on the game, BR2 is for the solenoids. The bridge formed by CR5-CR8 forms the +5 vdc, and the one formed by CR1-CR4 supplies the high voltage for the displays. Mount the discrete diodes slightly off the board for better cooling. While not a large problem on this board, inspect the fuse clips as well to ensure they are not tarnished.

5.4 The Single Largest Culprit in MPU death

Typical Alkaline Damage to a Bally MPU board



By far the largest reason the MPU board stops working is because of alkaline corrosion from the on-board rechargeable batteries. The original battery used on the board is a 3.6 volt nickel cadmium rechargeable battery; over time, this type of battery leaks corrosion into the traces surrounding it, affecting the 5101 memory, the reset circuit, the 6810 memory, the LED area, and all the traces around it. One of the worst boards had corrosion stretching throughout the entire ground plane of the board.

5.4.1 Get rid of that battery now!

Some Options to Eliminate the Ni-Cad Battery on the board



If a battery is on the board, it is recommended to remove it immediately. There are several different ways to replace the battery; in order of preference: 5101 ram eliminator, memory capacitor, nothing, lithium battery, remote mounted AA battery pack, exact replacement. The different options with pros and cons are listed below.

5101 Ram Eliminator

A 5101 ram eliminator doesn't eliminate the ram per se; it replaces it with a more modern ram that is either flash ram or has an internal battery built into it.
Advantages: eliminating a static sensitive obsolete part, eliminating any type of battery that could leak, high reliability, very long retention time (10-99 years)
Disadvantages: relatively high cost, need to remove the 5101 (if not socketed) and replace or add a socket, stressing relatively frail mpu board traces, flash ram type can wear out (although unlikely)

Memory Capacitor

A small capacitor (5.5 volt 1.5 farad works well) is added to the board in place of the original battery. The charging circuit for the rechargeable battery works just fine in maintaining enough of a voltage to enable the capacitor to act in place of the battery. Experience with memory capacitors is somewhat unpredictable. In some games, a charge lasts only a couple months; in other games, it has been seen to last at least a couple years.
Advantages: relatively low cost, easy installation, no risk of battery leakage, high reliability
Disadvantages: large initial charge time, some 5101s draw too much current, must turn machine on every couple of months to top off capacitor

Nothing

Removing the battery and cleaning the board up, you do have the option to replace the battery with nothing. If you don't care about audits, settings, or high scores, this is a valid option. Some software might not like having random garbage in its memory range, though. If you have a Stern MPU-200 based game, do not leave the battery out as the random garbage will cause problems with Stern's software. However, there have been free play romsets developed for this era game that zero out the memory on every bootup, ensuring no garbage gets into the audits causing game errors. Note that not all free play roms have this option, since there is no battery, there's no way for the game to save high scores, options, etc.
Advantages: No risk of leakage, ever
Disadvantages: No high scores save, no audits, garbage in ram can cause issues with some software, unless a specific romset is installed with this usage in mind.

Lithium Battery

Replacing the original nickel cadmium battery with a lithium battery is possible; however it is imperative that you add a blocking diode to prevent the battery from being charged.
Advantages: Very long life (10 years on average), cheap, can be mounted far from boards so any leakage would not leak onto boards
Disadvantages: Must use blocking diode, can leak (unlikely), any leakage difficult to clean up

Remote Mounted AA Battery Pack

A popular and inexpensive option is to replace the original battery with a small AA pack, with a blocking diode. Like the lithium replacement option, it is essential to have a blocking diode (usually incorporated into the pack) so the mpu doesn't try and charge the AA batteries. If you get lithium AA batteries you can get very long life. This type of battery pack needs to be checked periodically to ensure no leakage is occurring.
Advantages: Low cost, can be moved far from boards so if batteries so leak they do not leak directly onto boards
Disadvantages: Periodic maintenance (replacing/checking), can leak

Exact Replacement

You can replace the NiCad with a NiCad. Not recommended as all of the original pitfalls of the original battery are still present, but it will work. Many people use cordless phone batteries to do this; just make sure the voltage and amp hour rating are similar to the original battery. (3.6 volt 150 milliamp hours)
Advantages: Low cost, can also be mounted far from boards so any leakage does not leak directly onto boards
Disadvantages: Can leak, needs periodic maintenance (checking for corrosion)

Note that all of the replacement options that include batteries are subject to the same conditions causing leakage as the original battery was. It is strongly recommended that if you decide to use a solution that uses a battery as its power source to remotely mount the battery so that any future leakage does not drip onto the boards. The bottom of the head is a good choice as is the sidewall in cases where there are no boards mounted there. Corrosion can and does travel through the wiring used to relocate the batteries however, so periodic inspection of the batteries and board are necessary to ensure that no further corrosion is occurring.

5.4.2 Installation of Various Battery Eliminators

5.4.2.1 AA Battery pack
4 AA cell battery holder & diode


One inexpensive option is to replace the Ni-Cad rechargeable battery pack with a 4 AA battery pack plus diode using ordinary alkaline batteries. You must install a blocking diode (1N5817 or 1N4004 work fine) to prevent the game from trying to charge the battery and causing damage. Install the diode in the 1st bay with the banded side soldered to the "+" or RED terminal and the non-banded end to the "-" BLACK negative spring. Having a battery backup will save high scores & credits, and some sound settings. The holder can be mounted in a convenient spot in the backbox, and leads soldered to the MPU and a Molex .062 2 terminal pin and socket connected to the battery holder for easy servicing of the MPU. Mouser P/N 12BH348-GR for the 4 AA pack.

5.4.2.2 Lithium Battery with Holder
Lithium Battery with Holder Installed on Stern M-200 Board


Adding a 3v lithium button battery is an option. It is recommended to install a lithium battery holder. Adding a holder is beneficial for two reasons. First, heating a lithium battery is dangerous. There is potential for explosion, if the battery is overheated. Secondly, adding a holder makes future replacement of the battery much easier.

If adding a lithium battery, a blocking diode must be installed to keep the MPU from charging the battery. Although it cannot be seen in the pic to the left, a blocking diode is installed on the component side under the battery holder. The M-200 has 4 through holes located just above the bottom ground trace. These through holes are used to install an alternate block style Ni-Cad battery. The bottom left through hole is for the battery's positive terminal. The upper left through hole is used only to support the battery (the pad does not go to any of the board's circuitry).

In this example, the banded side of the diode is soldered to the lower left through hole. The non-banded side is soldered to the upper left through hole. Additionally, the positive lead of the lithium battery holder is placed in the same upper left through hole. The negative terminal of the battery holder is soldered into the center larger through hole located along the large ground trace (bottom perimeter of board).

Once the battery holder is installed, install the battery. A CR2032 lithium battery was used in this case. Once the battery is installed, use a voltmeter to make certain that the battery voltage is getting to the 5101 RAM chips. Place the black lead of the voltmeter on any of the ground traces, and the red lead on pin 22 of U8 and U13. A reading of ~3vdc should be seen.

5.4.2.3 Memory Capacitor
Prepping an MPU Board for Memory Cap Installation
Alternate method for installing a memory cap. Negative lead is tack soldered to perimeter ground plane. -17 board shown in pic.



Remove original battery, neutralize and clean any corrosion left behind/inspect parts in area, replace as needed. Drill a small hole to the left of the original batteries' negative terminal. Install the capacitor with the negative lead in the leftmost hole of the negative terminal, soldering it into place. Solder a lead to the positive terminal of the capacitor and bend the leg over to help hold it in place. Solder the other end of the lead to either the positive hole from the original battery, or to the bottom lead of R12. Double check your work in reference to the negative lead of the capacitor. Turn the machine on an let the capacitor charge for around 1/2 - 1 hour. Once the cap is charged, turning the machine on for about 1/2 hour a month will keep it topped up.

5.4.2.4 Original style battery or cordless phone battery
Remove original battery, neutralize and clean any corrosion left behind/inspect parts in area, replace as needed. Solder new battery in, or better yet, attach fly leads to battery and remote mount. Installing leads long enough for the battery to rest inside the cabinet versus the backbox is optimal. Sealing the battery inside a Ziploc bag is another good idea. Turn machine on for large initial charge to battery. Note that NiCad batteries will leak, just like the original batteries that were used on the MPU. Lithium batteries will be less prone to leaking.


5.4.3 Repairing Alkaline Damage

Should a leaky battery damage your MPU, the first decision to make is this: is the board worth repairing? The extent of the alkaline damage combined with your PCB repair skills, the value you place on your time, and the quality of the result you want to obtain may drive you to replace the board entirely with either an OEM board or one of several aftermarket replacements. Alkaline cleanup, component sourcing and replacement, and socketing troublesome old IC sockets can take 3 to 8 hours.

Should you decide to repair the board, component kits to replace everything in the "corrosion zone" are available from several sources for about $10.

Note: Most alkaline damage repair kits do not include the L1 and L2 inductors which are often damaged. Since these inductors are so small in value, simply replace them with a jumper.

Once you've decided to proceed, to neutralize alkaline, you need an acid. The most common way to accomplish this is to wash the affected area of the board with a mild vinegar solution (50% vinegar to 50% water). Use a toothbrush to scrub the board's affected area and outside the affected area, front and back. After scrubbing, rinse the board with water, then use isopropyl alcohol (the highest percentage you can get - 99% or 91%) in a wave action down the board to displace the water. Let the board air dry, or use a hair dryer without heat to speed the drying process.

After the board is dry, replace any components that were affected by the corrosion damage. The parts will be harder to remove and solder as the combination of corrosion and cleaning makes the solder difficult to heat. Adding new solder before desoldering will help in this process, as will boosting your temperature controlled soldering station up by about 50 degrees. Be careful as the pads are very fragile at this point and can lift easily.

Alternate methods of cleaning the affected areas include bead blasting, and sanding. If the damage is very slight, sanding might work best but you remove all the conformal coating when you do so (that's the green masking material applied to the traces on the board). You have to either replace this coating, or use an alternate material to protect the bare traces from oxidation. Clear nail polish has been used to do this, but isn't a great substitute. You can also tin the affected traces with new solder which will protect the copper. It is also possible to purchase conformal coating but it is toxic and messy to work with. **** Note when sanding your MPU you should wear a mask. The board has glass fibers that are bad for the lungs.

Bead blasting is a technique that uses small glass beads on a sand-blaster type setup to blast away the corrosion. Again, the conformal coating is removed and should be replaced. Some critics of the bead blasting technique indicate that the corrosion actually gets embedded in the board by this method; however, it is an accepted repair practice in electronics repair. Most people do not have the equipment needed to do this.

Regardless of the method used, any bare copper traces should be at minimum tinned with solder. Often after removing the components, you will need to sand the remaining pad to get a good soldering surface. A small fiberglass sanding pen is ideal for this purpose (available at auto parts stores). It allows precise sanding on small surfaces. Sand right before you solder as copper starts to oxidize immediately. Use a can of compressed air to blow any fiberglass particles out of your work area and be careful using the fiberglass pen as the fibers will become embedded in your skin causing irritation. Wear eye protection as well as you really do not want these particles flying into your eyes!

Use a meter to test your work, following point by point as you replace components to ensure you have a clean circuit path. Add jumpers as needed, and solder replaced components top and bottom to ensure good via continuity. Use a high quality socket when you replace the 5101 ram and be very careful around this area, as it is right next to the battery zone and is usually heavily damaged. All of the traces in this area are part of the address and data bus for all the roms, pias, and cpu, so any shorts or damage here will affect the rest of the board.

Finally, remember also that the alkaline will travel both down and up from the original position of the battery. Inspect the lamp driver board (right below the MPU) to ensure it hasn't become corroded also. If the corrosion was really bad, inspect the J4 connector on the MPU too. Corrosion will travel into the wires in this connector. If this has happened, you must cut the wires back far enough so the corrosion is not seen; otherwise it will leach back into your board and continue to spread through the wiring harness. Hopefully, the harness will still have enough slack to make it to the J4 connector. If not, you can extend the wires neatly by soldering and heat-shrinking new wires onto the harness. Having a parts machine to pull this type of wiring from enables you to match closely the wire markings so prevent confusion in the future.

Another thing about the J4 connector is that on most boards the two ground pins only connect from the top of the board. If battery corrosion made it to that connector it is a good idea to add a jumper on the solder side of the board from J4 Pin 18 and 19 to ground that runs along the outside of the board.

  • Bally/Stern MPU Alkaline Damage Abatement
  • The front side of a Stern MPU-200 with alkaline damage removed.
  • The back side of a Stern MPU-200 with alkaline damage removed.
  • An MPU-200, "corrosion zone" cleaned up.
  • A Bally -17 MPU, "corrosion zone" cleaned up.
5.4.3.1 Alkaline Corrosion Area Parts List
Bally/Stern Corrosion Area Parts List


Clicking on the thumbnail at left will open a .pdf file detailing parts used in the alkaline corrosion zone for Bally and Stern MPUs. The original parts "skeleton layout" was done by Ed at Great Plains Electronics.

5.4.4 Using the Dallas/Maxim DS1811 Reset Generator on Bally and Stern MPUs

Like the technique employed to repair alkaline damage on Gottlieb System 80 MPUs, the Dallis/Maxim DS1811 reset generator may be used on Bally and Stern MPUs also. The DS1811-10 has a typical trip point of 4.35VDC. You may also use the Microchip Technology equivalent, part number MCP130-460DI/TO, available from Great Plains Electronics.

Unlike Gottlieb System 80 MPUs, using the DS1811 on Bally and Stern boards doesn't save you much work. It replaces only 10 easily sourced components. And since you've done the hard work of cleaning up the alkaline damage already, using the DS1811 isn't really worth the trouble. But, if you'd like to use the DS1811, the procedure is described below.

After you've cleaned up the alkaline damage, replace all components except these 10:

  • VR1
  • R1, R2, and R3
  • R112
  • R138, R139, and R140
  • Q1 and Q5

With the board oriented as it would be in the game (J5 at top), install a jumper from the top through-hole of where R139 was, to the bottom through-hole of where R138 was.

There are several ways to form the legs of the DS1811 for a Bally or Stern MPU. However, with the flat side of the DS1811 facing left (i.e. at J4), the legs of the DS1811 should be placed in the prior location of Q5 such that:

  • Pin 3 of reset generator (top pin) is where the upper, right lead of where Q5 was
  • Pin 2 of reset generator (middle pin) is where the lower, right lead of Q5 was
  • Pin 1 of reset generator (bottom pin) is where the left lead of Q5 was

Add a 1K, 1/4W resistor from pin 1 of the reset generator to +5VDC. This signal can be picked up conveniently at the banded end of CR5 (a 1N4148 diode).

  • Using the Dallas/Maxim 1811 Reset Generator

  • An MPU-200 MPU with alkaline damage abated, and reset components replaced with the DS1811 reset generator.

  • The same image, but with the single jumper indicated (yellow dot), where to install the DS1811 flat side facing left, and the added 1K resistor.

  • Illustrated picture of components to remove, keep, and jumpers to add.

  • Closeup of the DS1811 equivalent installed.


One could also use The MCP100-460-DI/TO although there are a some variations from the DS-1811.

The following need to be removed (or not replaced)

  • VR1
  • R1, R2, and R3
  • R112
  • R138, and R140
  • Q1 and Q5

The difference here is that R139 is left intact.

Jumper R2 & R3.

Add a 1N4148 diode. Anode to anode of CR7, cathode (banded end) to "left" hole of R140. The CR7 anode hole is large enough to accommodate both diode leads without trouble.

The MCP100 is added in the Q1 (not Q2) location.

With the flat side of the part facing and the leads pointing down, the leads are from left to right, RESET, V (+5v), and Ground.

  • V (+5v) the middle lead, is soldered in the "top" hole, close to the now occupied hole of R140
  • RESET in the left most hole
  • Ground in the bottom most hole (which clearly goes to ground)

This solution is slightly less messy because it does not require the "floating" 1K resistor.

5.5 MPU boot issues

Non-booting Bally/Stern MPU boards fall into a couple different categories. If the board's LED is good and turns off at bootup, you're part of the way there. Refer to the flash sequence section to figure out where your issue lies to narrow down the problem area.

You must have a good set of roms in a game as well as a known good working 6800 cpu chip. Suspect any sockets that have a brown color or closed frame - often the spring tension on these sockets is poor necessitating replacement. Be very careful soldering on the mpu boards as the traces and pads are very fragile.

A "cheat sheet" comprised of the signals and pinouts for the primary chips and all of the header connections used with a Bally -35 MPU board is available here. The PDF is specifically for a -35 board, however, Bally -17 and Stern M100 boards are similar. The obvious differences are the ROM jumper settings and connection J5 (J5 on a -35 board has one more pin).

5.5.1 LED locked on

Remove all ICs except for U6, U9, U11, and U2 if it is a Stern. Leon's test rom is recommended for tricky MPUs. This allows you to leave out U11 and check most address and data lines.

Short pins 40 and 39 momentarily on the cpu chip; after doing so, see if the LED goes off. If it does, concentrate your efforts on repairing the reset circuit as it's not holding the reset low on powerup for the minimum required 50 milliseconds. If it doesn't, it's best to pull the board from the machine and put it on the bench, using the benchtop power supply details to keep working on the board outside the machine.

Ensure that Q2 and the LED itself are working properly (i.e. the board may be booting but the LED provides no indication). Pin 39 of the 6821 PIA at U11 drives the LED. Probing pin 39 and finding it pulsing indicates that the MPU is booting (or at least partially booting) and that R28 (8.2K), R29 (470), Q2 (2n3904), or the LED itself has failed.

An easy quick test for the reset section is putting your DMM on pin 40 of the cpu. It should read 5v, and in most cases if it does the reset is good. Attach a logic probe to the output of Q5 - on power on, you should see this circuit start low and then go high approximately 50 milliseconds later. If it goes high immediately, at a minimum replace Q5, then Q1. Make sure the 2 watt resistor is not leaning on Q5. The heat can kill the transistor.

Next put the probe on U9 pin 3, 36, and 37 to see if you get pulsing - these are all clock signals and you should see pulsing on all 3 pins. If you have an oscilloscope you can visually see the signals, or even on a multimeter, the voltage will show between 2.5-2.9 volts. If you see zero volts or 5 volts, your clock signal is bad. The CPU could be dragging down the clock. Remove U9 and see if the clock signal is now good. When clock signal is bad suspect U15 or U16. Also check C15 and C14. U15 is failed most often.

Check U9 Pin 2. This is the HALT line. You should see 5v, if not replace U9

Check U9 Pin 5. This is the VMA line. It is a pulsing signal and reads about 2.8v with a DMM. If incorrect first try a new U9. Next check U14D, U15C, U19B. U15 is the most likely IC to have failed.

Still locked on? After double checking all your jumper changes, roms, and rams in another board if possible, time to start suspecting other issues such as bad sockets, traces, or addressing chips. Bad sockets are quite common.

5.5.2 Reset Circuit

The purpose of the reset circuit is to ensure the +5 vdc is stable before allowing the system to start. At startup, the reset signal is held low via pull-down resistor R139 until the +12 vdc line rises above the zener diode VR1's value (8.2 or 9.1 volts depending on your board). At this time, the input voltage threshold for the +5 regulator on the solenoid driver board has been met with some headroom. Q1 starts conducting, turning on Q5, which provides the actual reset signal. All of this happens in approximately 50 milliseconds.

Most of the reset circuit is in the corrosion zone (lower left corner of the mpu board) and consists of most of the components commonly included in "repair kits". If the reset circuit is not working, the LED will not turn off. If Q1 or Q5 fails, conducting all the time, the cpu chip will never come out of reset.

The reset circuit continuously monitors the +12 volt line; if it falls below VR1's threshold voltage, the game will reset. If a Bally/Stern game is resetting, concentrate on why the +12 volts is dropping below 8.2/9.1 volts. (VR1 sets the threshold at which the reset signal turns on, and also when it would turn off in a rebooting scenario.)

Note that Q1 and Q5 actually form a switching power regulator for the reset signal only. The normal +5 supplied to the rest of the board is derived entirely from the solenoid driver board's regulator. The reset signal regulated power is used to charge the battery, provide the reset signal, and to power the 5101 chip(s) on the board. Normal +5 vdc is blocked from entering the reset circuit by the 1N4148 diode CR7. Diode CR5 (1N4148) blocks the battery voltage from powering the entire board via CR7.

5.5.3 Bally / Stern MPU Board LED Never Lights or is Locked On

If the LED never lights, either the +12v (TP2, J4 pin 12) is missing or the LED is bad. By default, the LED is ON until the software tells U11 to turn it OFF.

If the LED lights solid, there's some digging to do. First off, if the board has any corrosion damage at all, it needs to be cleaned and neutralized before attempting any repairs. While shot-gunning components might fix the board, it won't be 100% reliable if the corrosion isn't addressed.

Make sure you are getting a solid power path from the rectifier board through the solenoid driver / power regulator board to the MPU board. A locked on LED can be caused by a poor connection anywhere in this chain. Sometimes reseating connector J4 on the MPU board (lower left) will 'clean' a connector well enough to make a better connection. While this may be a short term fix, be aware that any connector, which seems to work better after being reseated, really should be repinned and have its header pins replaced.

Next, put your DMM or a logic probe on pin 40 of the 6800 cpu chip (U9). Power on the board. You should see the voltage remain low / at zero, and then approx 1/10 of a second later, rise to about +5 vdc (high). This is the reset signal, which originates from the components in the lower left corner of the board, and is sent throughout the board to U9, U10, and U11. What the reset section (called the 'valid power detector') does is not allow the MPU to boot until the +12 volts are stable over the value of ZR1 (a zener diode, usually either 8.2 or 9.1 volts). This delay ensures that the +5 voltage is stable enough to run the MPU board reliably (the +5 volts is derived from the +12 volts on the solenoid driver / power regulator board).

The 6800 CPU chip will not 'unlock' and start program execution until it sees a transition from a low (0 volts) to high (~5 volts) signal. This is the purpose of the power on reset delay. The reset delay and signal must be present at all three of the reset inputs at U9 (pin 40), U10 (pin 34), and U11 (pin 34). If the signal starts out immediately at a high level, the MPU will not start to boot until the transition takes place. If you have a locked on MPU, you can take a screwdriver or your meter probe and short pins 39 and 40 together for a brief moment on U9. If the game starts to boot after doing this, it's a safe assumption that the reset circuit is to blame. Shorting the pins together simulates what the reset circuit does.

If you need to rebuild the reset circuit, full kits are available from specialty suppliers such as Great Plains Electronics or Big Daddy Enterprises. The kits include all replacement components in the corrosion zone. Bare bones component replacements are Q1 (2n3904 or 2n4401) and Q5 (2n4403 or 2n3906), but it is a good idea to go ahead and replace all the parts that come in the kit. Replace components one at a time to ensure that you do not mix any up. Note there are some components that are polarized in their installation, which include VR1, CR5, Q1, and Q5. Look carefully at the board to see if there are traces on the top and bottom of a component. The continuity at a through hole can be compromised due to alkaline corrosion. Therefore, it is recommended to solder these components from the top and bottom of the board to ensure that a good connection is maintained.

The following is the list of parts for the reset section that should be replaced. Parts listed with more than one type are equivalent and can be substituted freely. It is also possible that the inductors L1 and L2 need to be replaced as well, however this is very rare. If there is heavy corrosion on them they should be replaced.

Transistors:

Q1 - 2N3904/2N4401 (lower left area)

Q2 - 2N3904/2N4401 (near LED)

Q5 - 2N3906/2N4403 (lower left area)

Diodes:

VR1 - zener 1N9598/1N4738A

CR44 - 1N4004 rectifier diode

CR5, CR7 - 1N4148 switching diode

CR8 - LED

Capacitors:

C1, C2 - 820pF ceramic capacitor

C3 - 0.01uF ceramic capacitor

C5 - 4.7uF tantalum capacitor

C13, C80 - 0.01uF ceramic capacitor

Resistors: (1/4 w unless noted)

R1, R3, R24, R28 - 8.2k

R2 - 120k

R11 - 82 ohm/2 watt

R12 - 270 ohm

R16 - 2k

R16 - 2.2k (stern mpu-200 only)

R17 - 150k

R29 - 470 ohm

R107 - 3.3k

R112 - 1k

R134 - 4.7k

R140 - 20k

If your reset circuit is operating as designed, yet the LED is still locked on, next step is to pull all the chips from the board except for U9, U11, and U6 (leave all chips U1-U6 installed on Stern MPU boards. Only U6 is required on Bally boards to perform the initial LED turn off). It helps to have a known working U6 from a Bally game to use as a test chip for this purpose. Be aware that you need to know/have the board jumpered for the correct type of chip you're inserting.

See if the board starts and turns off the LED with just the chips above installed - if it does, add these chips back in this order to see which might be bad: U10 PIA, U1-U5 program chips, U7 6810 ram, U8 5101 ram. Often a bad ram/rom can cause the entire system to lock up. Bad chip sockets can be a factor as well; the early Bally -17 boards have a closed type brown socket that's especially prone to failure.

Double check the jumpers to ensure they match the ROM chips you have available, and change the ROM chips to known working ones for testing. A final thing to check if the machine won't boot is the clock circuit. It is fairly robust, and far more common that the reset circuit itself or chip sockets are the issue. To check the clock circuit you need a logic probe or oscilloscope. A multimeter might show the average voltage on a clock circuit, or it might just show meaningless constantly changing numbers. The clock signal is pin 3 on the CPU chip, and the shifted clock signal goes to pins 36 and 37. The frequency is about 500 kilohertz for Bally -17, -35 and Stern MPU-100 boards, and approximately 850 kilohertz for the Stern MPU-200 board.

If the clock signal is missing, pull U9 first to make sure the CPU chip isn't damaged, and test it again.

It can be frustrating to track down a locked on LED problem, but breaking the problem up and testing each section individually helps. Just remember that if the LED turns on and then off, most of the battle is won. The board has booted far enough that the software was able to start and turn off the LED. Proceed onto the LED flash testing to determine what needs to be fixed beyond that.

5.5.4 Bally / Stern MPU Board LED Flash Sequence

Upon start up, Bally and Stern boards have an LED that flashes. The LED is used to convey the results of specific tests conducted on various parts of the system. This section explains what is being tested and how, according to information from the Bally "FO-561-2 Theory of Operation rev. 5-1982" manual, and the Stern manual "Theory of Operation, Stern's Microprocessor Controlled Solid-State Games".

When power is first applied to the MPU board, the LED by default is ON. The very first set of valid instructions in every Bally / Stern game is to turn the LED off. This is more of a flicker than a flash, so is not counted as a flash in the 7 flash sequence.

5.5.4.1 Quick summary

Flicker: MPU reset good, program booted.
1st Flash: ROM Checksums OK
2nd Flash: U7 6810 ram OK
3rd Flash: U8 5101 ram OK (U8 & U13 on mpu-200)
4th Flash: U10 PIA OK (see details for caveats)
5th Flash: U11 PIA OK (see details for caveats)
6th Flash: U12 555 Display interrupt timer OK
7th Flash: Zero crossing interrupt detector OK (solenoid voltage present)

5.5.4.2 LED flicker

The LED flicker tells you the CPU chip was able to start a valid program stored in the EPROMs, and that the reset circuit itself is good.

5.5.4.3 First flash

After the program is running, it performs a checksum of all programmed chips U1-U6. Most Bally games' programming is split between an operating system chip U6 and game ROM chip(s) at U1/U2. Stern games were programmed a little looser: operating system and game code are freely interspersed.

Bally checksums are calculated by summing each byte, and discarding any carries. Most games check their code in $0400 blocks, so it would be possible to determine down to the chip which chip failed this checksum. (A 2716/9316 chip has hex $0800 space available in it - 2732 sized images are $1000 in size. The smallest chip used was a 474 PROM which has $0200 bytes available) However, to do so would require a way to read the X register from the 6800 CPU chip at the time of checksum failure. So if you do not get the first flash, it is best to replace the U6 chip first, then move onto the other chips - U5, U2, and U1 (if present).

Stern checksums are calculated similarly, but not in chunks. The entire program space is summed and must equal $00 for the first flash to occur.

Regardless of whether the manufacturer is Bally or Stern, after the checksum is passed, the first flash occurs.

5.5.4.4 Second flash

Next, the program tests the 6810 RAM chip at U7, by writing the data $00 to each memory location contained in the RAM ($00-$7F). It then reads back each location to ensure that $00 is returned. It increments the data to $01 and repeats this test. This continues until the data read back is $FF (256), which is the maximum value of any one byte stored in the RAM. It then increments the memory location being tested, and repeats the $00-$FF data storage test. If any of the tested locations return an unexpected result, the program stops, and alerts you to a problem with U7 (since you got the first ROM checksum flash, but not the 2nd U7 OK flash).

5.5.4.5 Third flash

Now, the program tests the non-volatile 5101 RAM chip at U8 (U8 AND U13 on Stern MPU-200 boards). The 5101(s) store(s) bookkeeping data, game parameters, high scores, replay levels, etc. The program tests this RAM ($200-$2FF) by reading the original nibble / byte (see sidebar), and saves it in a temporary location. Then, it stores a test pattern in the location similar to the U7 test. After the byte successfully passes the test, the original data is returned to the location, and the program loops onto the next byte.

LEARN MORE: How does a 128 byte 5101 RAM occupy 256 memory locations?

If you look at a pinout of the 5101 memory, you will notice it is a 128 byte device. Yet, it is addressed by the MPU via 256 memory locations ($200-$2FF). This is because the 5101 is actually a 256 nibble device - a nibble is a half-byte (4 bits). So data stored to a 5101 in a pinball machine actually only stores half of the data byte being sent to it. Which half it stores is dependent on the board design. Bally and Stern use the upper nibble for storage, and Williams used the lower nibble. Stern MPU-200 boards have an additional 5101 at U13. This stores the lower nibble in conjunction with U8 storing the upper nibble of a byte saved to $200-$2FF. This allows MPU-200 games to store more data, and avoid doing some fancy processing by getting the data in and out of the non-volatile ram area.

For example, here's some pseudo-machine code for what happens:

  • LOAD #$24 (the data you want to store is 24)
  • STORE $231 (you want to store the data 24 at memory location $231)
  • READ $231 (you want to read back the data you just stored)

The data returned is not #$24 as expected, but rather #$2F. The lower nibble was never stored, because the 5101 memory does not store data as bytes but rather as nibbles. To store #$24 properly would require splitting the byte into its nibbles '2' and '4'. The 2 would be stored in one memory location, while the 4 would be shifted, and stored in another memory location.

Showing the byte as binary might be helpful to visualize what's involved. The hex #$24 in binary is %00100100. Split into nibbles is %0010 (the 2) and %0100 (the 4). The upper nibble is the one the 5101 is able to store directly, but the position in the byte of the lower nibble prevents it from being stored. A shift operation is performed 4 times on the byte to reposition the lower nibble as the upper nibble, which enables it to be stored to the 5101. Each shift moves the binary pattern to the left one bit - here's the full sequence:

  • Start=%00100100
  • Shift left=%0100100x
  • Shift left=%100100xx
  • Shift left=%00100xxx
  • Shift left=%0100xxxx

This gives the #$4 in the high nibble. All byte data has to be split this way to be saved, and recombined upon reading from boards (Bally -17 and -35, Stern MPU-100) with a single 5101 RAM chip. You can see why Stern added the second 5101 RAM to their boards. It makes programming much easier!

5.5.4.6 Continuity Chart for U8 5101 RAM in a Bally AS2518-17, -35 or Stern MPU-100 Board
IC & Pin# Data Address Continuity Points
U8 pin 1 (A3) U7 pin 20, U6 pin 5, U9 pin 12
U8 pin 2 (A2) U7 pin 21, U6 pin 6, U9 pin 11
U8 pin 3 (A1) U7 pin 22, U6 pin 7, U9 pin 10, U11 pin 35
U8 pin 4 (A0) U7 pin 23, U6 pin 8, U9 pin 9, U11 pin 36
U8 pin 5 (A5) U7 pin 18, U6 pin 3, U9 pin 14
U8 pin 6 (A6) U7 pin 17, U6 pin 2, U9 pin 15
U8 pin 7 (A7) U7 pin 15, U6 pin 1, U9 pin 16, U11 pin 24
U8 pin 8 GROUND
U8 pins 9&10 (D10&D00) U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U9 pin 29, U11 pin 29 (* pins 9 & 10 siamesed together)
U8 pins 11&12 (D11&D01) U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U9 pin 28, U11 pin 28 (* pins 11 & 12 siamesed together)
U8 pins 13&14 (D12& D02) U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U9 pin 27, U11 pin 27 (*pins 13 &14 siamesed together)
U8 pins 15&16 (D13&D03) U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U9 pin 26, U11 pin 26 (* pins 15&16 siamesed together)
U8 pin 17 (CE2) Q5 Right Upper leg, U9 pin 40, U11 pin 34
U8 pin 18 (OD) U18 pin 6
U8 pin 19 (CE1) U17 pin 8
U8 pin 20 (R/W) U7 pin 16, U9 pin 34, U11 pin 21, U18 pin 7
U8 pin 21 (A4) U7 pin 19, U6 pin 4, U11 pin 22
U8 pin 22 (Vcc) C13 Left Leg, R12 upper Leg, CR5 Lower Leg


5.5.4.7 U8 & U13 5101 RAM Continuity Chart for Stern MPU-200 Only
Data Address U8 Pins U13 Pins Other Continuity Points
A0 4 4 U9-9
A1 3 3 U9-10
A2 2 2 U9-11
A3 1 1 U9-12
A4 21 21 U9-13
A5 5 5 U9-14
A6 6 6 U9-15
A7 7 7 U9-16
D0 NC 9-10 U9-33
D1 NC 11-12 U9-32
D2 NC 13-14 U9-31
D3 NC 15-16 U9-30
D4 9-10 NC U9-29
D5 11-12 NC U9-28
D6 13-14 NC U9-27
D7 15-16 NC U9-26
GND 8 8 U9-1
VCC (+5V) 22 22 U9-8
CS1 19 19 U17-8
CS2 17 17 U9-40
OD 18 18 U14-9
RW 20 20 U9-34



Note: The U8 5101 RAM Continuity Chart below is under review for correctness. Hibler reviewing it now...

IC & Pin# Signal Continuity Points
 U8 pin 01  (A3)  U13 pin 1, U7 pin 20, U6 pin 5, U9 pin 12
 U8 pin 02  (A2)  U13 pin 2, U7 pin 21, U6 pin 6, U9 pin 11
 U8 pin 03  (A1)  U13 pin 3, U7 pin 22, U6 pin 7, U9 pin 10, U11 pin 35
 U8 pin 04  (A0)  U13 pin 4, U7 pin 23, U6 pin 8, U9 pin 9, U11 pin 36
 U8 pin 05  (A5)  U13 pin 5, U7 pin 18, U6 pin 3, U9 pin 14
 U8 pin 06  (A6)  U13 pin 6, U7 pin 17, U6 pin 2, U9 pin 15
 U8 pin 07  (A7)  U13 pin 7, U7 pin 15, U6 pin 1, U9 pin 16, U11 pin 24
 U8 pin 08  GROUND  U13 pin 8
 U8 pin 09  (DI0 & DO0; D4)  U13 pins 9 & 10, U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U9 pin 29, U11 pin 29 (*pins 9 & 10, shorted together)
 U8 pin 10  (DI0 & DO0; D4)  U13 pins 9 & 10, U7 pin 6, U6 pin 14, U9 pin 29, U11 pin 29 (*pins 9 & 10, shorted together)
 U8 pin 11  (D11 & DO1; D5)  U13 pins 11&12, U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U9 pin 28, U11 pin 28 (*pins 11 & 12 shorted together)
 U8 pin 12  (D11 & DO1; D5)    U13 pins 11&12, U7 pin 7, U6 pin 15, U9 pin 28, U11 pin 28 (*pins 11 & 12 shorted together)
 U8 pin 13  (DI2 & DO2; D6)  U13 pins 13 & 14, U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U9 pin 27, U11 pin 27 (*pins 13 & 14 shorted together)
 U8 pin 14  (DI2 & DO2; D6)  U13 pins 13 & 14, U7 pin 8, U6 pin 16, U9 pin 27, U11 pin 27 (*pins 13 & 14 shorted together)  
 U8 pin 15  (DI3 & DO3; D7)  U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U9 pin 26, U11 pin 26 (*pins 15 & 16 shorted together)
 U8 pin 16  (DI3 & DO3; D7)  U7 pin 9, U6 pin 17, U9 pin 26, U11 pin 26 (*pins 15 & 16 shorted together)
 U8 pin 17  (CE2)  U13 pin 17, Q5 Right Upper leg, U9 pin 40, U11 pin 34
 U8 pin 18  (OD)  U13 pin 18, U14 pin 9
 U8 pin 19  (CE1)  U13 pin 19, U17 pin 8,
 U8 pin 20  (R/W)  U13 pin 20, U7 pin 16, U9 pin 34, U11 pin 21, U14 pin 10
 U8 pin 21  (A4)  U13 pin 21, U7 pin 19, U6 pin 4, U11 pin 22
 U8 pin 22  (Vcc)  U13 pin 22, C13 Left Leg, R12 upper Leg, CR5 Lower Leg



Note: The U13 5101 RAM Continuity Chart below is under review for correctness. Hibler reviewing it now...

IC & Pin# Signal Continuity Points
 U13 pin 08  GROUND  U8 pin 8
 U13 pin 09  (DI0 & DO0; D0)
 U13 pin 10  (DI0 & DO0; D0)
 U13 pin 11  (DI1 & DO1; D1)  U7 pin 3, U6 pin 10, U9 pin 32, U11 pin 32  
 U13 pin 12  (DI1 & DO1; D1)    U7 pin 3, U6 pin 10, U9 pin 32, U11 pin 32
 U13 pin 13  (DI2 & DO2)    U7 pin 4, U6 pin 11, U9 pin 31, U11 pin 31
 U13 pin 14  (DI2 & DO2)  U7 pin 4, U6 pin 11, U9 pin 31, U11 pin 31
 U13 pin 15  (DI3 & DO3)  U7 pin 5, U6 pin 13, U9 pin 30, U11 pin 30 (*pins 15 & 16 shorted together)
 U13 pin 16  (DI3 & DO3)  U7 pin 5, U6 pin 13, U9 pin 30, U11 pin 30 (*pins 15 & 16 shorted together)  


5.5.4.8 Issues with 5101 RAM chips

The socket at U8 (and U13 for Stern MPU-200) is very close to the corrosion effects of the alkali of a leaking battery. This is often the cause of boards not showing a 3rd flash. There are traces on the component and solder side of the board, and the socket can hide corrosion to these traces. In turn, the corrosion can affect the 5101 chip's contact with the socket pins. Be careful when replacing corroded or SCANBE sockets at U8, U13, U11, etc. Bally/Stern boards run a number of exposed traces on the top-side of the board in between socket pins. It is extremely easy to splash a miniscule amount of solder, accidentally bridging a socket pin to an adjacent in-between signal line. Use of a logic probe (ground lead at TP4 and 5V at TP5) and sampling all of the signals after a socket replacement will make it very easy to verify your work and locate crossed up (typically scratchy/floating) signals! This can save you minutes or hours of troubleshooting.

Unless the board is unusually clean, a rebuild of a non-working board should include replacing the socket at U8 (and U13, for MPU-200). The chip is an oddball configuration with 22 pins which makes machine pin sockets hard to find. Use 2 strips of machine sockets, so that you can solder both above and below the board. Inspect the traces closely on the top; it is best to avoid soldering on the top of a board unless you have to as it makes it extremely difficult to desolder the sockets in the future. Take extreme care not to make a solder bridge of the traces on the component side, as it is easy to do. Performing a continuity test to adjacent socket legs after soldering is a good practice. Also, note that some of the pins are shorted together. (see above)

Failure to achieve the third flash can also be attributed to the following: If the U8 and U13 (MPU-200) show correct continuity as charted above, and the 5101 RAM is known to be good, the problem could lie with the U19 (4011) chip. On Stern MPU-200, replace U14 (4572) instead. Finally, although rare, the 6800 CPU at U9 could be bad.

The speed of the 5101 RAM chip can make a difference in the functioning of an otherwise good MPU board. If a slow chip is put into a good MPU, strange behavior such as inconsistent boot ups, incorrect score display behavior, among other things can result from the RAM not being able to keep up with the demand from the CPU. Below is a list of 5101 RAM chips and their speed. A lower number means a faster chip. A Stern MPU-200 board needs 2 chips of at least 450ns, while the Bally AS 2518-17 or -35 and the Stern MPU-100 can work correctly with a slower chip of 650ns. The stern mpu-200 board should have matching speeds for the 2 RAM chips, as they are selected and accessed simultaneously. A faster chip is fine for a replacement, but there will not be a performance enhancement. It is usually best that the speeds of the RAM chips match (eg, 450ns and 450ns, not 450ns and 150ns), or there could be strange side effects, such as strange sound behavior and audits not saving correctly to RAM.

  • PCD5101P (Philips manu) 150ns
  • 5101-1 450ns
  • 5101L-1 450ns
  • 5101L-2 450ns
  • 5101-2 450ns
  • 5101 650ns
  • 5101L 650ns
  • 5101-3 650ns
  • 5101L-3 650ns
  • 5101-8 800ns (too slow for any board)

The 5101 RAM chip is especially sensitive to static discharge that will damage it, so take extra precaution in handling.

The memory RAM replacement chip sold by Tom Callahan at pin-logic.com (now offline) uses a 6116 and special adapter, and makes a good replacement. Pin-logic also sells the static ram chips that do not require batteries for backup; although he advertises that these do not work in the Stern MPU-200 board, 2 of them did work on a test board. Another source for varying types of 5101 and 6116 replacements is a blog site WarpZoneArcade. There is information how to roll-your-own 5101 replacement adapters. Or, visit its accompanying site, PinForge for pre-made RAM adapters. A source for MPU-200 pre-built adapters is Pinitech. Here is a list of additional sources for NVRAM adapters.

If you opt to go for a (recommended) NVRAM solution, a highly recommended modification (after discarding the battery!) is to power the NVRAM directly from the +5V line and remove the 12V line circuitry. This can be easily accomplished by cutting out R11. And then cut out CR5 and CR7 and replace these two with jumper wires (or 0 ohm resistors).

5.5.4.9 Fourth and Fifth flashes

Next, the program tests each of the 2 6820/6821 peripheral interface adapters (PIAs) at U10 and U11, starting with U10. The PIAs are set to a known state, then data is stored and read back from them to verify their registers are functioning properly. It is important to note that it is not possible for the PIA to be 100% tested with this test, as external data would have to be fed in to do so. However, the test will at least test the internal registers. It would be possible for a PIA to pass the self-test, but still not work properly with external inputs.

Assuming the PIAs pass, the fourth (U10) and fifth (U11) LED flashes occur. The LED itself is connected to the U11 PIA. So if the LED is locked on, U11 might be bad. It's worth letting a locked on LED board 'sit' for a minute or so to see if the game boots all the way up without flashing each test step. This is an example of how a PIA can pass self test but still be bad. The LED control pin has no feedback as to if the LED is in fact flashing.

Because the PIA tests all possible values in all possible registers, anything connected to the registers will be activated very briefly as well. This manifests itself most obviously via the flipper relay which on most games will click during the U11 PIA test. Holding the flipper buttons in will usually result in a flip or half-flip during this test. This could be helpful if purchasing a machine/repairing one in a noisy environment and you want to see how involved you might getting before removing the backglass to visually see the LED diagnostic flashing.

5.5.4.10 Sixth flash

The sixth flash waits for an external input on U11 pin 40 from the display interrupt generator circuit, which occurs 320 times a second. If you're missing the sixth flash, there may be a problem with either the U12 circuit, OR the input pin on the PIA. A logic probe, oscilloscope, or a multimeter on pin 40 can help you determine which is at fault. A logic probe will pulse if the display circuit is operating; the scope will show you the signal's waveform; and the multimeter should settle on a voltage somewhat between 0-5 volts.

One definite reason for lack of a sixth flash is a poor connection on the ground side of C16, the film capacitor. If there isn't a sixth flash, but all other tests and measurements are good, it's a safe bet that U11 is bad and needs to be replaced.

Note that the sixth flash does NOT check for the proper frequency of operation of the display generation circuitry. As long as there is a pulsing signal (technically, ONE state change), the test is marked good and the program allowed to continue.

5.5.4.11 Seventh flash

Note: Before troubleshooting further, if testing on the bench with only +5 and +12V applied, a 7th flash will not happen even if the MPU is fully functional. The 7th flash requires the +43V solenoid voltage.

For bench testing, it is possible to "trick" The MPU into completing the 7th flash without applying the solenoid voltage by temporarily jumpering the top of R17 and the top of R23.

The 7th and final flash waits for an external input on U10 pin 18 from the zero crossing detector circuit, which occurs 120 times a second (as the AC waveform passes or "crosses" 0 volts). Diagnosis of issues with the 7th flash are similar to the 6th flash. The input to pin 18 can be measured to determine if the signal is present or not. A signal present, but no flash could mean a bad U10 PIA. Again, a missing signal usually points to missing solenoid voltage. The source of the zero crossing signal is derived from the solenoid voltage delivered from the rectifier board. Equally, if a signal is present, there may be an issue with the zero crossing detection circuit itself.

Note again that the seventh flash does NOT check for the proper frequency from the zero crossing detector. It simply checks for a pulsing signal, and only checks for ONE transition.

After the 7th flash, the program does some background setup: reads dip switches, enables the displays, attract modes, switch scanning etc. in a 'game over' mode, waiting for player input. The LED will sometimes be dimly glowing or even pulse as this happens, which is not a cause for alarm. The LED circuit around Q2 can be rebuilt if this is concerning, but it is harmless.

One interesting anomaly is that the 7th flash will not occur, if there is a bad 1N4004 diode (CR3) used on -32 / -50 sound boards. On these two sound boards, the +12VDC used on the boards is derived from the +43VDC solenoid voltage, and isolated by CR3.

Bally MPU with burned R113 and R16




If there is +43VDC solenoid voltage present, but no 7th flash, check R113 and R16 on the MPU. These two resistors take the 43v and form a voltage divider. If these resistors burn they can stop the 7th flash from happening. Test point 3 should show approximately 21.5 pulsating DC if the resistors are ok.

If there is still no 7th flash and there is 21.5 VDC on TP3, check CB1 which is on U10 pia pin 18. It is the logic side of the zero crossing and should be pulsing. If it is stuck low or stuck high replace u14.

5.5.5 Chip Sockets

Reliable socket connections are a requirement for any printed circuit card to work as designed. Old sockets, as discussed below, should be replaced. Use extreme care in desoldering the old sockets, the traces and pads on Bally Mpu-17 boards are easily lifted. It is possible to lift other boards' traces and pads as well, especially if any battery corrosion is in the area.

The chip sockets on old Bally and Stern boards (also most any board of this era) are long past their reliable lifetimes. They may work, but they may also cause intermittent connections that will have you chasing your tail tracking down odd problems with your game. Like the 40-pin interconnect used in Williams System 3-7 games, these sockets should always be replaced. On Bally/Stern MPUs, these include U2, U6 (more game ROMs if you don't combine the ROM images), U7 RAM, U8 5101 RAM (and U13 5101 RAM if a Stern MPU-200), U9 CPU, U10 and U11 6820/6821 Peripheral Interface Adapters.

Perhaps the most maligned socket brand, and rightfully so, is the Scanbe brand. In the picture below, you can see why. These 30+ year old sockets passed the point of reliability many years ago. Included in the Scanbe socket picture below are two pins pulled from a Scanbe socket. The pins were designed to grip the SIDES of the IC legs, unlike the design of modern sockets that grip the front and back faces of the IC leg. Get rid of them now.

  • Poor quality and old sockets found on many early pinball machine circuit boards
  • It's hard to believe that these "brown" sockets ever worked.
  • The spring strength of the pins in these AUGAT sockets eroded over time.
  • Closeup of the infamous "Scanbe" brand socket. "Scanbe" is molded into the top of the socket face.
  • This style of Molex socket is particularly troublesome. Like Scanbe sockets, they don't work well after many years and the legs are so large that they are almost as hard to remove as a "WPC Snap Cap" without damaging the delicate through holes found on Stern MPU-100 MPUs


  • One Method of Socket Removal (works for at least ScanBe and Augat sockets)
  • Prying off an OEM Augat socket. Be careful to not crush/damage traces as you pry.
  • Heat and remove each pin individually.
  • Clean up the through holes with your favorite solder sucker. Here, a Hakko 808 is being used.


5.5.6 ROMs/ICs

this is a stub

The Motorola part number equivalencies that appear on the top of U9, U10, and U11 are...

  • SC44216P = 6800 microprocessor
  • SC44067P = 6820 PIA

5.5.7 Clock Signal

replacement 9602 board: http://www.homepin.com/9602.html

replace with a 6802: http://pinballeon.com/6802/e6802.htm

5.6 How to make a Benchtop power supply for the MPU board

ATX Power Supply connector modification
Bench Top Power Supply hooked up to MPU board

Being able to test the MPU board on the bench is a great advantage in trouble shooting. A benchtop power supply is quite easy and inexpensive to put together. All that is required is a computer supply and some mods to the connectors. An ATX or old AT computer power supply will supply the + 5 vdc and +12 VDC that is needed to run the first 6 flashes. The 7th and final flash requires +43 vdc and cannot be supplied by the ATX power supply, but the MPU can be "fooled" into thinking it is present.
An ordinary ATX computer can be had used or new for under $20. Exact wattage is unimportant. In order to be able to switch the power on and off, the 20 pin connector on a ATX supply must be modded. This is not necessary on an older AT supply. Because modern motherboards use a soft power on/off, the green pwr-ON at pin 14 must be tied to the black COM ground at pin 13 or 15 thru 17. This can be done easily done with a short length of wire and a .062 pin attached to each end and shoved into the 20 pin connector at pin 14 and 15. Or, simply cut the wires free from the connector and solder them together.<bt>

Take one of the molex 4 pin connectors which have 1 RED wire (+5 vdc), 1 YELLOW (+12 vdc) and 2 BLACK ground wires. Attach an alligator clip to the RED, YELLOW and one BLACK lead. A good tip is to use the color coded rubber boots to protect from accidental shorts and keep it easier to identify the leads at a glance. If you should accidentally short the +12 volts to +5 via you will kill all the ICs on the board!

To use the power supply, with the power OFF, clip the black lead to TP 4 at the top right of the board. Clip the RED +5 vdc lead to TP 5 at the bottom right, near the battery. Finally clip the YELLOW +12 vdc to TP 2 on the bottom left of the board. Make certain that this connector is not on or shorted to TP3 which is nearby. This error would damage the board, so double check this before turning on the power. Connect the power supply to 120vdc outlet and flip the switch to boot.

Upon power up, the brief flicker should be seen, then 6 (not 7) more flashes for a good board. The 7th flash cannot be achieved without +43vdc present. On some occasions, the LED will lock on and not go into the flash sequence. This COULD BE because the MPU is sensitive to the exact voltage supplied and will not boot with a computer supply. If the board successfully boots in the game, this could be the cause. This condition is rare, but possible. Also, if the LED locks on immediately, try doing a manual reset by briefly shorting together pins 39 and 40 of the U9 CPU with a small screwdriver. This forces the pin 40 to go low and begin the boot process. It is also possible to short the junction of resistors R1 and R3, on the right side of R1, to board GROUND with a jumper clip to accomplish the same effect.


5.7 Solenoid Driver Board Issues

5.7.1 Failed LM323K or Mission 5VDC

While the LM323K (or 7805) is a reliable voltage regulator, periodically, they do fail. A discussion on replacing the LM323K can be found here.

5.7.2 Testing and Replacing Transistors

Before and After of Replaced Drive Transistor, Diode, and Resistor


To test a transistor set the DMM to diode test mode. With the game turned off, place the black lead on the metal tab of the transistor. Probe the two outer legs of the transistor with the red lead. The DMM should read between .4v and .6v (some DMM will show 4xx - 6xx). The center leg should be a dead short to the metal tab. If either outer leg reads anything outside of the .4v to .6v range, the transistor more than likely needs to be replaced. Use a TIP-102 as the replacement transistor.

If a transistor needs to be replaced it is usually a good idea to check / replace the 1n4004 diode and 330 ohm resistor associated with that transistor as these will often burn / short. Also check the diode on the associated coil, it is likely to be shorted as well.

The transistor output can also be tested by using the diagnostic LED on the MPU board. An alligator test lead and a component lead clipping or finishing nail are needed.

  1. With the power off, attach one end of the alligator test lead to TP6 located on the MPU board. TP6 is located in the vicinity of of the diagnostic LED.
  2. Next, attached the other end of the test lead to the component lead clipping or finishing nail.
  3. Turn the game on, and place it into solenoid test or just allow it to remain in attract mode.
  4. Carefully place the lead with the finishing nail into one of the many solenoid outputs on the solenoid driver board (J1, J2, or J5).

If the LED lights briefly as the solenoid test cycles, the transistor and header connection on the solenoid driver output is good.

If the LED does not light, suspect the following...

  • a failed transistor,
  • a cracked header joint,
  • a discontinuity between the transistor and the header pin,
  • the associated diode on SDB has failed,
  • the 3081 transistor array on the SDB,
  • the 74154 4 to 16 decoder on the SDB, or
  • failed connections on J4 of MPU and / or J4 of the SDB, or bad daisy-chain connection at J1 of the sound board (if a sound board is used)

If the LED remains on, this means that the transistor is shorted. The exceptions are the diagnostic button return connection (ground) located at J2 pin 7, and the coin lockout coil ground at J2 pin 8. The coin lockout is a high resistance coil, and can remain on without destroying its associated drive transistor.

The above test using the MPU diagnostic LED can be performed with the J1, J2, or J5 connectors connected or disconnected. WARNING: DO NOT place the lead on the J3 or J4 connectors on the solenoid driver board.

5.7.3 Replacing a failed Solenoid Transistor

If a coil has locked on, or any SE9302 (TIP-102) transistor has failed the diode test with your multimeter, replace the following components on the Solenoid Driver board as a set. In addition, also test the playfield coil disconnected from the game wires, with the ohm setting. The coil should have a value higher than 3 ohms up to around 15 ohms. Lower than 3 ohms is a dead short and will heat up and burn up components if the fuse does not blow. The coil diodes should also be replaced if the coil has locked on. Since the diode must be disconnected from the lugs to test it, it just makes sense to clip it off, replace the diodes, and not bother to test them. 1N4004 diodes or better, (1N4005,6 or 7) should be used. You cannot test the diode in place. The diode band (cathode) goes to the power lug of the coil, usually a double wire connection, because the coils are daisy chained. If it is a single wire, look at another nearby coil and note the color of the double wire.

Replace any suspect SE9302 with a TIP-102 transistor. They are used in many pinball machines, so having a small supply of them is highly recommended. The TIP-102 is a more robust transistor and can handle more current. On the SDB replace the associated diode, and resistor for any driver transistor you replace. Check the associated pin for signs of burning and replace the header pins and connector pins if they have turned brown or look corroded. If a diode and/or resistor has actually burnt, check for continuity and make sure the circuit board traces have not also burnt up. This is a common problem when someone has over-fused the game.

5.7.4 Solenoid Transistor Mapping

Bally Solenoid Transistor Mapping
Stern Solenoid Transistor Mapping


To view a chart of what specific transistor controls a specific coil on a particular Bally game (transistor mapping), click the image at left.
To view a chart of what specific transistor controls a specific coil on a particular classic Stern game (transistor mapping), click the image on the right.

5.7.5 Solenoid Driver Board Transistor, Resistor, Diode & associated Connector Chart

TIP 102 1N4004 Diode 330 ohm Resistor SDB Connector
Q1 CR1 R9 J1-pin 2, J2-pin 9
Q2 CR2 R6 J1-3, J2-4
Q3 CR3 R16 J2-5, J3-4
Q4 CR4 R18 J1-5
Q5 CR5 R10 J2-10
Q6 CR6 R12 J2-11
Q7 CR7 R14 J2-12
Q8 CR8 R20 J5-10
Q9 CR9 R26 J5-9
Q10 CR10 R28 J5-15
Q11 CR11 R32 J5-14
Q12 CR12 R30 J5-13
Q13 CR13 R22 J5-12
Q14 CR14 R24 J5-11
Q15 CR15 R39 Flipper Relay
Q16 CR16 R34 J2-6, J3-7, J5-8
Q17 CR17 R42 J5-7
Q18 CR18 R45 J2-15, J3-9, J5-3
Q19 CR19 R47 J2-8
TIP 102 1N4004 diode 330 ohm Resistor SDB Connector

5.7.6 Solenoid Driver Upgrades

Visual of Solenoid Driver Upgrades. Note that TP1 and TP3 are tied together.

There are several upgrades which can be performed to reduce stress on connectors.

The two 5v test points on the SDB can be tied together. On the solder side of the driver board jump TP1 and TP3 together. Be careful to apply this to the correct test points. This eliminates a possible failure point on J3 pins 13 and 25. Note that TP1 is for the raw +5vdc coming directly from the regulator. TP3 is for the voltage that feeds all the +5vdc circuits in the driver section. If there's a problem in the driver section, it can be isolated by removing this jumper, and removing pin 13 or 25 from J3.

Next the C23 capacitor needs a common ground with the rest of the SDB. Jump the negative side of C23 to a convenient ground trace. On most boards there is a ground trace in the vicinity of the C23 negative lead. Other boards might require a longer jumper. Scrape the solder mask off the trace to get a good solder surface to solder the jumper. If replacing the C23 capacitor, (a good idea, they can be 30+ years old at this point), it may be possible to leave the negative lead "long" on the new capacitor. Then, bend the leg down to the ground trace, and solder it in both the mounting hole and the trace.

The C26 capacitor needs a ground upgrade similar C23 mentioned above. Tie the negative side of C26 to the ground trace located at the perimeter of the board. This connects both C23's and C26's negative side to a common ground on the SDB. The goal of these modifications is to provide redundant grounds with the least resistance possible.

On the Stern SDU-100 and the older Bally AS-2518-16 boards there is a "gap" between pin J3-22 and J3-23. Both are ground connections. Use some additional solder and connect the two, bridge the "gap". Now all grounds (J3-18 thru J3-24) are tied together.

5.7.7 How to Rebuild the Bally/Stern Solenoid Driver Board

The Solenoid Driver board is critical to the operation of the electronics of the game. The Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) comes in several types for Bally and Stern, and are completely interchangeable for any game of the 6800 MPU type. The SDB supplies the game with the voltages for the MPU, coils and high voltage for the displays. Recommendations are given below for replacing components to ensure proper operation and reliability. In all cases, do the ground modifications as shown in another part of this Wiki.

Minimum Recommendation for a Working board

At a minimum, replace both large capacitors on a working or non-working board, especially if they look original. Original caps are often metallic blue or metallic silver, and are at least 30 years old and due to fail, owing to the electrolytic chemicals in the capacitor drying up. The capacitor at C23 has a factory value of 11,000uf and 20 volts, but these values are not easily found these days. An electrolytic capacitor of between 11,000uf and 16,000uf and 25 volts or greater can be safely substituted. A screw terminal capacitor makes for a easy installation, but a snap cap with leads can be used as well. Recent prices for screw terminal caps have increased greatly so this may be a factor in your decision.
The high voltage capacitor at C26 has an original spec of 160uf and 350 volts and is an axial electrolytic capacitor. Once again, this part is difficult to encounter with these exact specs, but an axial or radial cap from 150uf to 180uf and at least 350 volts can substitute. 400v or 450v caps can be had in a radial format and size that will fit. With a radial cap you will have to make leads that bend back to the negative (-) solder pad.

Preferred recommendation for a working board

Clearly fractured .156 header pins on a Bally single sided driver board
Besides the above, replace ALL the .100 and .156 molex header pins and the connector terminals in the nylon housings with Molex TRIFURCON Phosphor Bronze tin plated crimp terminals (Molex Part# 08-52-0113 for 18-20 gauge Wire, and 08-52-0125 for 22-26 gauge) for the .156 connectors, and Molex .100 tin plated Phosphor Bronze crimp terminals, (Molex Part#08-52-0123). Do NOT skimp on this step and just do one or the other. The receptacles can be re-used if not burnt. If replacing the receptacles, the locking or non- locking ramp type are fine. Often, the connector at J5 does not cover the last few pins. I don’t like this personally, although no harm can be done if the key is in place.
Check every resistor that is usually covered by the plastic shield between the two big heat sinks for correct value and no sign of burn. Replace any that are suspect. Use the diode function on your multimeter to check the zener diode at VR1 and the 1N4004 diode. The zener diode can be difficult to source. See below for recommendation.

Gold Standard for Working or NON-WORKING board

It doesn’t make too much sense trying to trace down the exact problem and replacing only the bad components on a NON-WORKING board. Better to replace every possible bad component and start fresh. To ensure long life and proper operation of a working board, in ADDITION TO THE ABOVE, it is recommended that the components below are replaced regardless. Below is a list of components that effect the HV and +5 volt logic circuits on the SDB. Replace them all! * The Stern Revision J board is rather different, & a component list for that board follows. It can be identified by the extensive silk screening of each component and its function as seen in the 4th photo above, and by the HUGE 2 Watt and (2) large 1 Watt resistors. It is most often found on late date Stern games like Flight 2000 or Viper, etc.

Component replacement list for Bally AS2518-16 or -22 and Stern SDU100 SDBs, except * revision J

Resistors

  • R51 22k ohm 1/2Watt
  • R52 390 ohm 1/4 Watt
  • R54 8.2k ohm 1/4 Watt
  • R55 1.2k ohm 1/4 Watt
  • R56 82k ohm 1/2 Watt
  • R35 100k ohm 1 Watt

Diodes

  • CR21 1N4004 400PIV 1 amp or better (1N4007, etc.)
  • VR1 Zener diode 1N5275A 140 volts, 1/2 Watt. Can Sub 1N5275B or NTE 5099A

Transistors

  • Q21 2N3584 250volts, 2 amp, TO-66 NPN
  • Q22&23 2N3440 250 volts 1 amp TO-39 NPN
  • Q20 LM323K (original 78H05KC or LAS1405)

Capacitors

  • C27&28 .01 uf 400 vdc metal polyester capacitor
  • RT1 25k ohm potentiometer (2 types) a 15mm black one, Piher Part# PT15LH06-253A2020 or a 6mm blue one BournsPart#3306P-1-253

Stern SDU100 revision J

  • R35 100k ohm 1 Watt
  • R51 33k ohm 2 Watt
  • R52 390 ohm 1/4 W
  • R53 2.4k ohm 1/4 W
  • R54 8.2k ohm 1/4 W
  • R55 1.2k ohm 1/4 W
  • R56 82k ohm 1/2 Watt
  • R73 3.3 ohm 1/4 W
  • R74 470 ohm 1/4 W
  • R75 100k ohm 1 Watt
  • CR22 1N4004 or better
  • Q24 2N3904 Transistor

Other diodes, transistors and capacitors as above for AS2518-18

5.7.8 Modify the Display Fuse holder

alternative text
Fuse adapter for the SDB allowing use of a common fuse




Some versions of the solenoid driver board have a small fuse present for the displays. This fuse is a difficult to find, expensive, type 8AG 3/16 amp fast blow fuse. It would be best when rebuilding the SDB to replace the fuse holder with new clips and convert it to a more commonly available 3AG type. The original value of 3/16 amp can be substituted with a more common 1/4 amp fast blow fuse without worry of over fusing the circuit, due to inherent variations of tolerance by the manufacturer.

Perform the following to replace the existing 8AG fuse holder:

  • Bend up or clip off the upper solder lead of the clip
  • Move the TOP fuse holder up one hole
  • Solder a 20 ga. wire from the base of the clip back down to the lower hole.

Be careful not to solder the clips with the inner "ears" facing in the wrong direction, or the work will have to be redone. It may be helpful to put an old 3AG fuse in the clips to aid in spacing, and assure that the "ears" are positioned correctly. The fuse will also hold the clips in place while soldering. See the photo above. Of course, an inline fuse holder can also be used instead, but looks less professional.

5.8 Solenoid problems

Before proceeding to diagnose solenoid or problems, see this section: How coils are turned on.

One very common issue with solenoids not functioning on the playfield is a blown fuse under the playfield. This fuse, typically a 1 amp slo-blo, powers all of the solenoids on the playfield, except the flippers. The symptom of a blown playfield fuse is when the flippers, knocker, coin lockout relay, and chimes (if the game uses chimes) function in solenoid test, but no other solenoids will enable.

5.8.1 Game starts, ejects ball, but no other playfield coils or flippers work

On early Stern games, if the symptoms include all these:

  • There are no blown fuses
  • The game boots
  • The driver board relay engages
  • The coin door relay engages
  • When a game is started it ejects a ball into the shooter lane
  • No other playfield coils work
  • The flippers don't work

Be sure to check the backglass for the tilt lamp to make sure the game isn't in tilt. If it's on (or if the lamp isn't working) check the slam tilt switches and ball tilt switch. It's possible that the ball on the ball tilt assembly got stuck at the rear of the assembly.

5.8.2 Solenoid Expander Board and Diodes at the Coils

Bally Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition Saucer Coil showing dual diode connections at the coil lugs.
Bally Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition Schematic snippet showing dual diode connections and 6 coils multiplexed by the solenoid expander board relay.


The solenoid expander board allowed additional coils to be installed in games beyond what was originally supported on the driver board. The relay essentially worked as an A/B switch for two banks of coils. Each return line could then control two different coils, depending on which way the relay was switched.

5.9 Lamp problems

5.9.1 Lamp Sockets

Most lamp problems stem from the sockets themselves. The recommended best practice for problem sockets is to replace them. If you want to try and get them working reliably, here are some things you can try.

First off, clean the inside of the socket. There are nice dremel tool tips to help, but even a screw driver can scratch off some crud from inside a socket. Sometimes a light squeeze on the socket with pliers can make the bulb stay in nice and snug and be less likely to move and stop lighting.

Repairing Single Lamp Sockets

The bare wire running under the playfield for controlled lamp power carries 5-6 vdc and is usually soldered onto the sockets mounting bracket. The mounting bracket then connects to the outside of the socket. After 30 years or so the connection from the mounting bracket to the lamp socket's outside can break. To remedy this there are two things you can try. You can solder the barrel of the lamp socket directly to the base of the socket (so it can no longer swivel). This can be kind of tricky without a higher power soldering iron - if you use paste flux it is easier. Radio Shack also sells a solder called "Crystal Clear" flux which works well. To do this well, you need to either sand or file (the file works best and saves your fingers) the area to be soldered on the base and the barrel. The other option is to run a small jumper wire that connects the bare wire directly to the outside of the socket, thus eliminating the poorer connection between the mounting bracket and barrel.

Another less common issue is the connection between the lamp socket's solder lug (insulated wire to the driver board connects here), and the back tip of the socket (what moves out/in and is spring loaded to hold bulb in place). What you can do here is to move the insulated wire off of the lamp socket's solder lug and solder it directly to the back of the socket tip. This eliminates any potential connection issues with the solder lug/tab and the back pin.

Before soldering onto a socket, either the barrel or the spring terminal, it must be sanded or filed clean or the solder will not stick. Paste flux or the crystal clear flux solder recommended above will help. If you have a temperature controlled soldering station crank it up above what you would normally use for boardwork to about 800 degrees.

Repairing Multiple Lamp Sockets Tied Together



Another issue is the multiple lamp mounting boards/brackets like those used in Stern Big Game, Meteor, and others. The lamp sockets are riveted to these mounting boards and are not replaceable. These mounting boards suffer from a bad connection to the bare controlled lamp wire running under the playfield. You can either solder each lamp barrel to the base plate or run a daisy chain wire from barrel to barrel to help fix issues with the sockets. Again, lamp sockets need to be sanded (200 grit works well) or filed before solder will stick.

5.9.2 General Illumination (GI) Problems

The primary cause for General Illumination problems...burned connectors.


One of the main reasons for lack of GI in Bally/Stern games is burned connectors on the rectifier board. If your game's GI connector looks like the one pictured at left, it's time to replace it. Generally, it's good policy to replace both the male header pins and the pins within the female plug.

The female plug can be reused if not too toasty. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, drive the blade through the slot where the pin's "tang" locks it into place. This will release the tang and smash the old pin. Only moderate hand pressure is needed to accomplish this. Once the tang has been released, the wire and pin should pull from the female housing easily. Crimp a new TriFurcon pin on to improve connectivity. Be sure that the "key pin" is installed on the female plug in the right location.

5.9.3 Controlled Lamp Problems

5.9.3.1 Lamp Driver Board SCR / Connection Chart
SCR MC14514 Connection SCR MC14514 Connection SCR MC14514 Connection SCR MC14514 Connection
Q1 U1 J1-24 Q16 U1 J2-22 Q31 U3 J2-2 Q46 U4 J3-18
Q2 U1 J1-25 Q17 U2 J1-11 Q32 U3 J3-27 Q47 U4 J2-10
Q3 U1 J1-26, J2-21 Q18 U2 J2-20 Q33 U3 J2-11 Q48 U3 J3-16
Q4 U1 J1-28 Q19 U2 J2-15 Q34 U2 J1-2 Q49 U3 J3-17
Q5 U1 J2-16 Q20 U3 J1-13 Q35 U2 J1-3 Q50 U4 J3-12
Q6 U1 J2-14 Q21 U2 J1-12, J2-12 Q36 U3 J3-26 Q51 U4 J3-15
Q7 U1 J1-27, J2-13 Q22 U2 J1-10 Q37 U3 J2-23 Q52 U4 J2-5, J3-13
Q8 U1 J1-23 Q23 U2 J1-4, J2-8 Q38 U3 J3-25 Q53 U4 J2-3, J3-14
Q9 U1 J1-14 Q24 U2 J1-5 Q39 U3 J2-4, J3-24 Q54 U4 J3-11
Q10 U1 J1-15 Q25 U2 J1-6 Q40 U3 J2-9, J3-22 Q55 U4 J3-9
Q11 U1 J1-16 Q26 U2 J1-7 Q41 U3 J3-20 Q56 U4 J3-10
Q12 U1 J1-19 Q27 U2 J1-9 Q42 U3 J3-21 Q57 U4 J3-1
Q13 U1 J1-17 Q28 U2 J1-8 Q43 U3 J2-7 Q58 U4 J3-2
Q14 U1 J1-18 Q29 U2 J1-1 Q44 U3 J3-19 Q59 U4 J3-4
Q15 U1 J2-23 Q30 U3 J2-6 Q45 U4 J2-1 Q60 U4 J3-3


5.9.3.2 Failed Lamp SCRs
Using an MCR-106 in place of a 2N5060

Lamp locked on
The usual cause for a lamp that is stuck on is a failed SCR. Bally/Stern employed two different SCR parts to control lamps. The MCR-106 is able to drive two lamps at the same time. The smaller 2N5060 will drive one lamp only. These SCRs fail from sinking too much current, from old blackened bulbs (which draw more current) or from being shorted to something under the playfield carrying high voltage (solenoids). If you accidentally short several lamps together, this can cause the SCR to fail also.

If you are in a bind it is possible to use an MCR-106 in place of a 2N5060, with one caveat. Two legs of the MCR-106 SCR need to be reversed. As you are looking at the board the top and middle leg of the MCR-106 need to be reversed.
**Note: a 2N5060 CANNOT be used instead of an MCR106 which drives more than one lamp.

Lamp never lights
A lamp that never lights might be caused by a failed SCR or the connection from the lamp driver board to the lamp socket. Use your meter's continuity test to "buzz" the path from the SCR to the lamp itself. Lack of continuity means that either the lamp driver board male header/female housing connector or the wire from the female housing to the lamp socket is severed.

Some lamp boards feature buffer and (4514) decoder chips. A failed buffer or decoder chip can prevent a lamp from lighting. If you have multiple lamps out, and you have tested the wiring for each, look back to the chips to see if the lamps in question share a chip in common. Refer to the game's schematics. If so, and the SCRs have tested good, the chip may have failed. A logic probe is the best tool for this diagnosis.

A Bally Lamp Driver board with clearly cracked header pins. Cracked headers like these cause the lamp to be intermittent or to not light at all.


The .100 headers on lamp driver boards are subject to a lot of stress. This is mostly because the backbox cabling has typically been liberated from the "tie downs" that were installed at the factory. The constant pull of gravity, vibration, etc, generally causes the top or lower several header pin solder joints to crack. You can attempt to "reflow" the solder on these joints, but they don't take solder well. The absolute best course of action is to replace the header pins since in addition to cracked solder joints, the header pins themselves lose their plating, another source negative impact on reliability.

Bally Lamp Driver board using MCR-106 SCRs
Stern Lamp Driver board using MCR-106 SCRs


Pay close attention to the orientation of an MCR-106 when replacing one. Bally and Stern lamp driver board MCR-106s are installed facing opposite directions. T106 SCRs in a TO-202 package (the style with an extended metal tab) are easily oriented per the board silkscreen.

A Bally/Stern lamp driver board, showing proper orientation of smaller MCR-106 SCRs. Note the position of the metal part of the component relative to the silkscreen.


5.9.3.3 Testing Lamp Driver SCRs

Testing a 2N5060 (also 2N5061, etc)

Testing a 2N5060
  • Set the DMM to diode check
  • Place the red lead on the center leg (the "G" leg)
  • Place the black lead on the lower left lead (the "C" leg)
  • A measurement between .5 and .8 should be displayed.
  • Place the black lead on the center leg (the "G" leg)
  • Place the red lead on the lower left lead (the "C" leg)
  • A measurement between 1.4 and 1.6 should be displayed.
  • Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.


Testing an MCR-106

Testing an MCR-106
  • Set the DMM to diode check
  • Place the red lead on the left leg (the "G" leg)
  • Place the black lead on the right lead (the "C" leg)
  • A measurement between .5 and .8 should be displayed.
  • Place the black lead on the left leg (the "G" leg)
  • Place the red lead on the right lead (the "C" leg)
  • A measurement between 1.4 and 1.6 should be displayed.
  • Readings outside of these ranges (generally dead shorts, sometimes opens) indicate the part has failed.


5.9.3.4 No Controlled Lamps Working

If all of the controlled lamps are not working properly in the backbox, on the playfield, or both, this could be due to several reasons. Bad / marginal connectors, either on the rectifier board itself (male header pins) or the female housing that connects to it. A bad lamp bridge rectifier or blown controlled lamp fuse on the rectifier board could cause this too. The easiest way to determine if the controlled lamps are receiving the proper voltage on the playfield or backbox is to probe the bare controlled lamp bus wire (make certain to probe the controlled lamp bus and not the general illumination bus) on either or both areas with the red lead of a DMM. Then, connect the black lead of the DMM to a known, solid ground. Voltage should read approximately in the 6-8vdc range.

Additionally, if the +5vdc is missing on the lamp driver board, no lamps will light. Only one incoming pin (pin 3) on the J4 connection (upper left connection on board) of the lamp driver board carries the +5vdc. Check for the presence of +5vdc at TP1 of the lamp driver board.

Finally, the lack of a solid ground on the lamp driver board will also cause all lamps not to light. Most all of the different variations of the lamp driver board have the grounds secured via the screws which fasten the board to the backbox. However, the second generation of the Bally lamp driver board, the AS-2518-23, does not have these extra ground points. Since all of the lamp driver boards are interchangeable, there is the potential to have any one of the boards in the backbox. Pins 1, 2, and 11 of the J4 connection (upper left connection on board) carry the incoming grounds for the lamp driver board. The grounds originate from pins 3, 4, and 14 at connector J3 of the rectifier board.

5.9.3.5 Dim controlled lamps

The biggest cause of dim controlled lamps is a weak connection via the power chain's connectors. The original lamp driver bridge rectifier is slightly undersized on the rectifier board at 8 amps; either changing to #47 bulbs can alleviate some of the load placed on this bridge, or it can be upgraded to a larger capacity (25 amp or higher). Changing the header pins on the rectifier board to a 10 amp capable pin plus changing the connector pins to Trifurcon connectors will help the power chain. Application of a dielectric to prevent oxidation can help prevent new pins from prematurely wearing out, but do not apply any chemical to old, tarnished pins.

The fuse clips on the rectifier board can get tarnished, too. Replacement with high current phosphor-bronze clips will help dimming issues. The less resistance in the power chain the better and brighter your lamps will be.

Another thing that can cause dim controlled lamps is a partially failed BR1 on the power transformer module assembly. Measure the voltage at TP1 on the power supply board--if the voltage is found to be about 2.5-2.8vdc, also measure it for AC voltage. If it reads 2.5vac on the test point, replace BR1. What happens is one of the diodes in the bridge fails open and causing an AC bias to be on the DC voltage pushing the voltage down when the AC wave goes opposite to the DC voltage.

5.9.3.6 Lamp Driver Board Attacked by Battery Corrosion
Lamp Board Attacked by Alkaline Corrosion



Lamp Board Traces Attacked by a Leaky MPU battery

Corrosion can drip down from the battery on the MPU board to the lamp board. Corrosion that has seeped into the SCR's can cause them to act erratic, (such as not fully turning on, or not fully turning off the controlled lamp) not switching the lamp on (even if the lamp is replaced), or a lamp being "stuck" on. If this erratic behavior is happening, inspect the lamps SCR for green/black corrosion on the legs and metal backs. Replace any components with signs of corrosion on them, even if they seem to operate normally--they will eventually fail.

Although it is not nearly as common, a leaky battery can destroy the traces on the solder side of the lamp driver board. If everything else has been checked regarding some lamps not functioning, remove the lamp driver board from the game, turn the board over, and inspect the board traces. Primarily the top horizontal traces are the most susceptible to alkali damage. Since alkali damage is very unpredictable, any of the other areas of the board may be damaged.

5.9.3.7 Testing Lamp Outputs

The group who designed the Bally boardset was a crafty bunch! Did you know that there is already a built in set up to test a lamp driver output? The diagnostic LED on the MPU board can double as a lamp output tester. What is needed is an alligator test lead and a component lead clipping or finishing nail. With the power off, attach one end of the alligator test lead to TP6 located on the MPU board. TP6 is located in the vicinity of of the diagnostic LED. Next, attached the other end of the test lead to the component lead clipping or finishing nail. Turn the game on, and place it into lamp test mode. Carefully place the lead with the finishing nail into one of the many lamp outputs on the lamp driver board (J1, J2, or J3). If the LED lights, the SCR and / or the header connection on the lamp driver output is good. If the LED does not light, suspect either a bad SCR, a cracked header joint, or a discontinuity between the SCR and the header pin. Pretty neat, huh?

5.9.3.8 Lamp-to-SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) Mapping for Classic Stern Games

Click here to access a table showing the mapping from the Lamp Driver Board (LDB) SCRs to individual feature lamps for some classic Stern games.


5.9.3.9 Controlled Lamp Fuse Blows Instantly (With LED Adapter Add-on Boards)

If the fuse for the controlled lamps blows almost instantly at power up, and there are LED adapter add-on boards installed on the lamp board connectors, it's possible that there is an issue on one or more of the add-on boards. Remove each add-on board individually to isolate which one might be causing the problem. Check for solder splashes or solder bridges on the suspected board(s). Also, if the add-on boards have SIP resistor arrays/networks, it's possible one or more of these components may have failed.

5.10 AS-2518-147 Combo Solenoid/Lamp Driver Board

The AS-2518-147 is a combination Solenoid, Lamp, and Voltage regulator board. It is much like a AS-2518-16 or a AS-2518-22 board but includes some lamp driver circuitry.

5.10.1 AS-2518-147 ground updates / bullet proofing

The following are several ground updates to aid in reducing current stress on the connectors of the -147 combo board. Applying these ground mods should aid in reducing browned charred connectors and provide redundant grounds with the least resistance possible.

AS-2518-147 overall ground-mod plan


  1. The two 5v test points can be tied together. On the solder side of the driver board jump TP1 and J3-25 together. This eliminates a possible failure point on J3 pins 13 and 25. J3-25 is for the voltage that feeds all the +5vdc circuits in the driver section. If there's a problem in the driver section, it can be isolated by removing this jumper, and removing pin 13 or 25 from J3.
    AS-2518-147 ground mods - Step 1 & 2

  2. The C4 and C5 capacitors need a common ground with the rest of the SDB. Jump the negative side of C4 to the above C5 negative trace and continue to the main ground trace on the edge of the board. Scrape the solder mask off the trace to get a good solder surface to solder the jumper.

  3. Add a jumper from the large lampdriver ground trace to the main ground trace on the edge of the board.
    AS-2518-147 Step#3


  4. Add a jumper from the solenoid driver section ground trace to the main ground trace.
    AS-2518-147 Step#4


5.11 Switch problems

Bally / Stern 5 x 8 Switch Matrix


Bally/Stern games use a switch matrix arranged as a 5x8 matrix for a total capability of 40 switches. Some games (Medusa, Spectrum, and others) have a sixth column of switches making a total of 48 switches in a 6x8 matrix. This guide will concentrate on the "normal" 5x8 matrix but the information applies also to the 6x8 matrix; the sixth column signal wire is merely in a different location, and for switch matrix troubleshooting purposes the information is interchangeable.

Columns 0 and 1 are shared by the playfield and cabinet switches. Any problems with switches in these columns can be further diagnosed by disconnecting the J2 connector (playfield) or J3 connector (cabinet) to isolate the playfield, cabinet, or both from switch tests. Switch test on Bally/Stern machines is entered by pressing the self-test button on the coin door 4 or 5 times, depending on the game. The stock software in each game only shows the lowest switch number that's closed; multiple closures or an entire row/column closed will still only show the lowest switch number. (There is a special test rom available that will walk through all the closed switches one at a time).

Start a switch diagnostic test by removing all balls from a game and placing all drop targets into an upright position. Enter switch test and you should have a zero flashing on the match display, signifying no closed switches. Use the chart from the manual in your game if you see a closed switch to investigate why it's showing closed.

Probable reasons for a stuck switch are:

  • points or blades adjusted too closely/touching
  • switch diode touching lamps/other wiring
  • solder splashes/conductive debris on a switch
  • shorted switch capacitor, if used

Here is where disconnecting the playfield will help. If you disconnect the switch connector for the playfield from the MPU board (J2) and the stuck switch stays, you know the problem is not on the playfield. If the switch is in column 0 or 1, you might have a problem with the switch matrix going to the cabinet. It is common for switches on the coin door to become mangled, either being stuck closed or shorted to the coin door in some way. You can disconnect the coin door separately while in switch test to see if the switch faults clear.

If you disconnect both J2 and J3 isolating all switches in the game from the MPU board, you should always see the flashing 0 indicating no switches closed in switch test. If you do not, there is a board fault that should be investigated and corrected. All of the signals for pulsing and reading the switch matrix originate and terminate at the U10 6821 PIA chip. As a quick test for this chip, you can swap it with the U11 PIA to see if the problem's symptoms change. If they do or the switch matrix starts to work correctly, you have a probably failed PIA chip and should replace it. Be aware that the U11 PIA chip controls the solenoids in the game, so if the U10 chip is bad in any way, you might have locked on solenoids causing more damage if your fuse doesn't blow. Before swapping the PIA chips, remove the solenoid driver board's .156 connectors to the solenoids to prevent damage. You could also just remove the J4 connector that feeds the solenoid driver board's input signals. (Lower right connector on the SDB).

Sometimes due to wiring error a switch diode is reversed in the switch matrix, either from previous repair work, or even from the factory. When this happens, you will see the wrong switch closing. Test for this by entering switch test and activating each switch one at a time referencing the switch chart in the manual, ensuring that each switch reports the correct switch number. This means that each drop bank will need to be reset by hand after each drop target test. If the game in question has a spinner, test the spinner with the playfield down and then place a piece of paper between its switch points so testing other switches with the playfield up doesn't show a false positive on the spinner from movement.

Momentary contact switches will sometimes have a switch capacitor installed. The purpose of this capacitor is to ensure the MPU board "sees" very quick hits to a tilt, pop bumper, sling, or standup target. Switch capacitors should not be installed on rollover, saucer, spinner, outhole, or trough switches. There are a few games that do have capacitors installed on these switches. You can cut these off safely and not worry about replacing them.

A symptom of a failed (shorted) switch capacitor will be a stuck switch showing in the switch test, and no scoring/scoring once/multiple repeated scoring in gameplay. As a test, you can cut one leg of the capacitor off a suspect switch and see if the problem goes away. If it does, the capacitor was probably bad and you can replace it. (A 0.047 mfd 16 volt or higher non-polarized ceramic disc replacement works well.)

Quick hits to switches that do not have capacitors installed can have a capacitor installed to improve performance, or if you have a pop or sling that activates when hit but does not score. You can add the 0.047 mfd capacitor to these switches on the two lugs that do not have the diode installed; one end of the capacitor goes to the blade lug that has one end of the diode but not the matrix wiring, and the other end of the capacitor goes to the switch lug that only has the matrix wires without the diode. If you do add a capacitor to a sling or pop bumper, be aware that it is possible for radio frequency interference from a coil's collapsing magnetic field to be picked up by the capacitor, causing the switch to activate. This is most common with flipper coils - holding a flipper up and releasing generates a short pulse of radio frequency static.

It is good preventative maintenance on machines that have switch capacitors to methodically replace each and every one with a new one. Adding a switch capacitor to pops and slings is a good idea also as you can run a slightly larger switch gap on the activation switches, which helps to prevent switch bounce and repeat, unwanted, activations.


5.11.1 Leaf Switch Theory,Operation and Adjustment

Leaf switches in pinball games come in 4 formats: Normally Open (N.O.), Normally Closed (N.C.), Break-Make, & Make-Make, the last 2 of which are really combinations of a N.O. and/or a N.C. switch. Regardless of their function, all switches are in fact, a N.O. or N.C. type.

Leaf switches in electronic games are of 2 compositions,at least 2 bronze blades each holding a gold flashed contact or a Tungsten contact. Since gold is a very high conductor of electricity, it is used on most switches, with the exception of the flipper cabinet and End of Stroke (EOS) contacts, which are tungsten. Gold will not tarnish or turn black, but sometimes gets dirty from solenoid dust, and this may effect its conductivity. Tungsten flipper contacts must be redressed with an ignition-type flat file as used in automotive repair, as the contacts are too hard to be smoothed by sandpaper or flex file abrasive. Gold flashed contacts must NEVER be cleaned with a file or sandpaper. A business card, or thin cardboard, is all that is necessary to clean electronic gold flashed contacts. If they seems to have a foreign substance on them, a Q-Tip with a degreaser like Mean Green, or alcohol can be used and then wiped off. Contact cleaner must NOT be sprayed liberally on the switch, but can be applied with a swab.

5.11.2 Normally Open (N.O.) Switch
Normally Open Switch in resting state
Schematic rendering of N.O. & N.C. switches

This is a leaf switch that has 2 contacts that complete a circuit when pushed closed by some mechanical device. The switch re-opens when the device moves away from the moveable contact, and the springiness of the blade opens the circuit.

5.11.3 Normally Closed (N.C.)Switch
Normally Closed (N.C.) switch in resting state with optional nylon spacer

This type of switch opens a circuit when a mechanical device pushes against the blade.

5.11.4 Break-Make switch
Break-Make switch in resting state

This switch is really a composite of a N.O. and a N.C. switch with just three blades instead of four. The movable center blade has contacts on BOTH sides. Proper adjustment insures that when a device moves the center blade towards the open contact, the CLOSED switch OPENS BEFORE the center contact touches the open switch’s contact. When the pressure is released, the center blade returns to its N.C. side and re-makes contact. This type of switch is often used on relays. A Make-Break switch is really the same, just upside-down, or in reverse, of the order of actions of a Break-Make switch. Special care should be taken with a Make-Break switch that the three blades are not at any time shorted together. This can happen often when the blade stiffener is maladjusted, and contacts the other blade of the pair. Note that this type of switch is rarely seen in Bally/Stern solid state machines.

5.11.5 Make-Make switch
Make-Make switch in resting state

A make-make switch is a composite switch consisting of two N.O. switches using only 3 blades. When mechanical pressure is applied to the blade, the switch “makes” or closes the circuit, and continues to move until a second switch contact is closed, tying all 3 blades together.

5.11.6 Adjusting Switch Gaps

Proper switch clearance gaps are crucial for correct operation of any pinball game. Very many problems in games come down to a problem with incorrect operation of a switch. The switch blades are made up of phosphor bronze, which has high conductivity, resilience to form and excellent soldering characteristics, but has the drawback of being brittle compared to copper. Switch blades therefore, are commonly broken by the game, or careless actions by the repair person. A switch adjusting tool, purchased or homemade, is a necessity. Pliers or screwdrivers might be used in special circumstances, or in extremis, but are not best practice.

Switches in games are designed to have a degree of over-travel, which creates a wiping motion that helps clean the switch. The contacts must meet, stay together and slide across the face of the contact slightly, to be perfectly adjusted. They also must be gapped wide enough that they do not bounce, causing multiple switch closures. This problem is seen often in electronic games, when the rapid nature of the switch closures cause machine-gunning of the slingshots .

Before adjusting switches, make certain the screws holding the switch stacks are down tightly. Bakelite spacers in the switch stacks, due to excessive moisture, have occasionally shrunk by drying out, causing poor adjustment. After tightening a switch stack, be sure to recheck the gap of each switch.

To adjust a leaf switch, first make sure the switch stack of bakelite or plastic spacers and blades are tightly packed against each other by giving the 2 screws a twist of your screwdriver. As long as there is no screw movement with reasonable pressure, you can procede. Some switches have a regular nut on the backside instead of a speednut, which will require holding it as you turn.

Using your switch adjusting tool, put twisting pressure on the moveable switch blade as close to the switch stack as possible, and include the blade stiffener(if present) in the adjuster slot. Try to use as little force and change of gap as possible, and incrementally reach your gap goal. Using too much force and a back and forth gap readjustment, tends to bend and weaken the switch blade, and can make a deformed switch blade difficult to set for correct operation. This is often seen in games that have been “hacked”, and sometimes the only way to remedy the situation is to replace the entire switch, or disassemble it entirely. Cycle and recycle the mechanical device that activates the switch and observe the switch for proper gap, wiping action and release.

5.11.7 Recommended Gap Specifications

Kicking rubber, or slingshot switches usually have a generous gap, at least 1/16", due to the rubber ring pushing back against the switch, and a bit of trial and error will be necessary to find the ideal gap setting. Pop bumper switches and scoring “dead” bumper switches, should have a gap of 1/64" for the actuating switch under the spoon, and a 1/32" gap for the score switch when open. Flipper cabinet switch have a generous gap which can be adjusted to suit the owner of the machine to provide a good "feel". All other types of switches will probably function well with a 1/32" gap, and this would be a starting point, modifying the gap on a case by case basis.

5.11.8 The Importance of Diodes and Capacitors on Switches
Orientation of Diodes
A ceramic capacitor of the type used on switch. NOTE: The number is NOT the correct value for switches. Use 0.047 mfd for replacement


On all Bally and Stern solid-state (SS) pinball games, there MUST be a diode connected to each pair of switch blades. The diode’s purpose is to isolate the switch from the other switches in the switch matrix. A shorted or reversed diode will cause the MPU to read the strobe signal on the wrong return line, causing a switch read error.

Bally (and Stern) used a matrix of 5 columns (strobes, designated 0-4) and 8 rows (returns, designated 0-7) allowing for 40 switches. Some Bally games have a sixth column allowing for 48 total switches. The sixth column games re-use a signal pin from the earlier games that was the sound board address "E" pin. Stern uses this same pin for the 7th digit enable on their displays, and never used it for their sound boards. No Stern game has a sixth column of switches.

Bally and Stern both state 1N4004s as original, but 1N4148 diodes can be used, and in some cases, were used from the factory.

5.11.9 Switch Capacitor Purpose and Failure
A typical standup target with an OEM switch capacitor. The capacitor is the green disk. The other component is the isolation diode.
Schematic showing capacitor connections relative to switch and switch isolation diode. Image from Bally Silverball Mania.


Capacitors are used on switches that may open and close very rapidly, to lengthen the switch pulse that the MPU can read. Not all switches will have capacitors. Standup targets, pop bumpers, slings, and tilt mechanisms are switches that benefit from a capacitor. All switches that need a quick reaction can have switch capacitors added to them (such as rollover buttons). These are ceramic non-polarized capacitors with a value of .047 or .050 uf and 16 volts or greater. A commonly available cap is the .047 uf/50 volt through Mouser P/N 140-50U5-473M-RC.

The factory-installed caps are often damaged by the high wattage industrial soldering irons used in manufacturing of the games, or they succumb to the vibration over time and no longer serve their purpose of lengthening the switch closures so that the MPU can read them. Often times, a technician will clip the cap off to diagnose a stuck switch problem and not bother to replace it. The switch will still operate in this fashion for the most part, but might not always detect rapid or brief switch closures. For more sensitive play, the capacitor should be replaced. A failing cap can also make a switch bounce, and cause machine-gunning of a slingshot or pop bumper.

Sometimes the operation of the flippers or other solenoids will cause a phantom switch close on a pop bumper or slingshot. This is due to the way the software reads the fast react switches on those mechanisms. The RF produced by the flipper coil's collapsing EMF field is picked up by the switch capacitor, causing the pop or sling to fire. In most cases, no score is added; the mechanism just operates. Keeping the leads short on the switch capacitors might reduce their tendency to pick up this stray RF in the machine.

5.11.10 Proper Location of Wiring, Diodes, & Capacitors

Color coded wiring of the playfield switches will vary by game model and manufacturer, but the following should hold true for any Bally or Stern game made from at least 1977 to 1985 . Switches may have two or three lugs, depending on function. If the switch has 3 lugs, one of them is a DEAD LUG, which is electrically isolated from the other switch blades and ground. It may be that the dead lug is off to the side, or positioned the same as the other lug, and it may be difficult to visually verify which is the dead lug. The Dead Lug does not have a blade. The purpose of the dead lug is to have a isolated soldering point for the COLUMN wire(s) and the NON-banded (anode) end of the diode.

Switch capacitor is wired as shown, some switches will not have one.
A stand up target with capacitor & diode


A 3 lug switch will have the following connections.

  • A switch capacitor (if required) between the 2 switch blades.
  • A ROW wire(s), (with a capacitor leg, if needed) to one end of either switch blade
  • A COLUMN wire (usually daisy chained) plus the NON-banded end of the diode to the DEAD LUG
  • The BANDED (cathode) end of the diode to the opposing switch blade, either by itself, or sharing the lug with a leg of the capacitor


Remember that switches are usually daisy-chained together, so except for the last switch in a group, there will be a common COLUMN wire (sometimes NOT insulated) between each switch, along with the NON-banded diode. Any break is this wire will cause all the switches below it to not function. Keep in mind that the schematics show a logic progression of switches which may or may not match the physical chain under the playfield. A failed or leaky diode can only be tested for by desoldering one end of the diode & checking with the diode test function of your multimeter. It is very little more work to just simply replace the diode with new if it is suspected.

5.11.11 Troubleshooting multi- ball games that will not start

There are Bally (and some Stern) multi-ball games produced which require ALL balls to be in the correct position before a game will start. If a pinball is stuck on the playfield, missing, or the switch does not register, is broken or maladjusted, then the game will not start. The symptoms each game shows varies. After the game boots, a few insert lights may flash repeatedly, or the game will not coin up, the general illumination will not light and credits will not count down, etc. Check the chart below for specific games.

These switches can be checked in the game diagnostic switch test see if they are stuck closed, or manually operated to see if they register. Remember that only the LOWEST number closed switch will appear on the display, so if other switches are closed or have a fault, they must be cleared to check for the higher switch number.

Game # of balls Symptoms Check switch
Centaur 5 All zeros on; displays flicker #01 Ball trough 4 
#02 Ball trough 5
#08 Outhole (will start with #01 or #02)
Elektra 2 Will not start; displays blank #01 Outhole 
#02 Left/Right of Outhole (Starts with #01 or #02)
Embryon 2 Always starts #05 Left/Right of Outhole 
 #08 Outhole
Fathom 3 Won't start; no GI, 2 insert lights flash, displays blank #01 Outhole 
 #02 Left of Outhole 1
 #03 Left of Outhole 2 (Starts with #1& 2, OR #1&3)
Fireball II 3 Won't start; displays blank #01 Outhole 
 #02 Left of Outhole
 #03 Left of Outhole
 #18 Right of Outhole
Vector 3 Won't start; displays normal #01 Left of Outhole 2 
 #02 Left of Outhole 2
 #03 Outhole
Xenon 2 Won't start; displays blank

Note that game will start with only ball release 1 switch (#02) closed.

#02 Ball release 1 
 #28 Ball release 2
Freefall 3 Won't start; displays blank; credit display shows zeroes in all 6 positions #04 Outhole 
 #35 Left of Outhole 1 (closest to outhole) or #38 Shooter Lane
 #34 Left of Outhole 2
 #33 Left of Outhole 3 (closest to shooter lane)
Flight 2000 3 Won't start; all player displays show HSTD; credit display blank 
 #33 Outhole Right
 #34 Outhole Center
 #35 Outhole Left


  • Note: Neither Freefall nor Flight 2000 will go into test mode, until switches 33 (or 38 - shooter lane with Freefall), 34, & 35 are closed.


5.11.12 Electrical short troubleshooting Fuse helper
alternative text
Circuit breaker with a blown fuse soldered in position

As an aid to finding the cause for an electrical short, you can make a circuit breaker tool to eliminate the need to constantly replace a fuse, while you investigate the cause. This could save you money in the long run. It is better to under-fuse the connection by a small amount, then to use the rated fuse rating, so a 3 amp circuit breaker could be used on a 5 amp fuse holder, or a 10 amp breaker for a 20 amp G.I. fuse holder. The very small GMA fuses (5x20mm) will probably need some kind of jumper wire setup.

  • a burned out fuse of any amperage or voltage (you were saving them just for such a thing!)
  • a circuit breaker of 1, 3, 5, or 10 amps, whatever amperage you require for the circuit you are troubleshooting. Buy ones like Mouser P/N 691-CMB10311C3NBA (Carling) or 655-W57-XB7A4A10-10 (Tyco).

Solder the burned out fuse to the spade terminals of the circuit breaker as shown in the photo. Alternatively, make a two wire female spade mini harness, and solder the bare wires to each ends of the bad fuse and attach the circuit breaker that way.

5.12 Display problems

5.12.1 Display High Voltage Section

Bally High Voltage Section Repair

WARNING: This circuit uses high voltages. Don't continue, unless you are confident in your diagnostic abilities.

WARNING: The case of the 2N3584 (Q21) high voltage transistor is live!!! Touching the case will result in a dangerous shock!!! Also, some Stern solenoid driver boards use very long screws to support the protective plastic over the HV section. These screws are not isolated from the case of the 2N3584 HV transistor. The screws / nuts which support the protective plastic are live!

If all displays are blank, your high voltage (HV) section may not be working. On the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB), use a DMM to measure volts DC on test points TP2 and TP4, to determine if this section needs repair:

TP2 = 150 to 190VDC
TP4 = 230VDC +/- 25VDC

If TP2 is less than about 150VDC or over 200VDC, the HV section is malfunctioning. It is worth mentioning that when the source display voltage rises above the core acceptable levels, the displays will still operate. However, the increased voltage will strain the display circuitry. In turn, the displays glass life expectancy will decrease dramatically. If TP4 is 0VDC, then power is not getting from the Power Supply board, and the problem is located either on the Power Supply, or in the wiring/connectors carrying power to the SDB, so you must correct this before working on the HV section.

Replacing the components in the HV Section
(TP2=0VDC or 230VDC AND TP4=230VDC)
If you prefer to replace only the failed components, follow page 50 of the Bally repair manual, F.O. 560, dtd 20 June 1977.

Since there are not that many components, it is may be less time consuming to replace all the components in the HV section. Most of these components are located between the two large heat sinks. There is a school of thought when working with high voltage regulator circuitry that dictates replacing ALL the components, as a baked, tired, component can take out new components as well. This is one area where shotgunning the section might not be a bad idea.
HVSection.png


Check the Parts Suppliers section of the wiki to find suppliers, and get the following replacement parts (1/2 watt resistors can be substituted for 1/4 watt).

Part Part No. Location
Transistor 2N3584,250V,2A,NPN, note: a BUX-85G may be substituted   Q21
Transistor 2N3440,250V,1A,NPN Q22,Q23(heatsink)  
Zener diode 1N5275A,140V,1/2W,10% or 1N5275B,140V,1/2W,5% VR1
Diode 1N4004,400PIV,1A CR21
Fuse 3/16A,8AG F1(-22 only)
Resistor 22k Ohm,1/2W,5% R51
Resistor 1.2k Ohm,1/4W,5% R55
Resistor 82k Ohm,1/2W,5% R56
Resistor 8.2k Ohm,1/4W,5% R54
Resistor 390 Ohm,1/4W,5% R52
Resistor 100k Ohm,1W,5%,metal film R35
Capacitor 0.01 uF, 400V metal polyester C27,C28
Capacitor 150 uF, 350V (if original, replace) C26
Potentiometer   25k Ohm, PC-mount RT1

Possible replacement parts for the HV-section are....

Q22 and Q23 are 2N3440 and is getting harder to find. Replacement can be a TIP50, but be aware of the correct orientation (as with all transistors). The use of a small heatsink is advised for Q23 (like Wakefield-Vette/291-H36AB).

Q21 is a 2N3284 (very expensive and hard to find). A good replacement is a BUX85 mounted on the original heatsink (very easy to do, cut the middle leg).

The zener diode VR1 is a 1N5275 and is getting harder to find. A good replacement is a Z4KE140A zener diode.

The adjustment pot RT1 (25K) is an open type and cause bad adjustment. This can/should be replaced with a Bourns 3306P-1-203 (20K).



Remove and replace components

  • Clip the old components from the board (make sure you have new ones first).
  • Use one of the desoldering methods to remove solder from the holes.
  • Stuff board with new components.
  • Check for correct orientation on transistors, diodes and the large capacitor if you replace it.
  • Leave a little space under components for air flow.
  • Bend leads on components so they won't fall out when board is inverted for soldering.
  • Double check that all the correct parts are in the correct places and properly oriented.
  • Solder the parts to the board
  • Clip excess off leads


Ready to test

Prior to powering up and testing, remove all display connectors, or test with F1 removed from the SDB. I recommend connecting your DMM with a clip lead to TP2 prior to powering the game, so you don't have to probe the HV section. Power up the machine and verify TP2 voltage is 150VDC to 190VDC. If the correct voltage is read, power down the machine and reconnect all the displays and put F1 back in. Leave your DMM connected to TP2.

Power up the machine and adjust RT1 so TP2 reads about 150VDC to 160VDC. If some of the displays no longer light, then adjust the voltage up until they are all lit.

New displays may require to be burned in at 190VDC for an hour or two, but then the voltage can be reduced. The lower voltage will prolong the life of the gas plasma displays.

If TP2 is not correct after your repair, you will need to recheck your work. If you cannot find a problem with your repair, then I recommend you follow the troubleshooting steps on page 50 of the Bally repair manual, F.O. 560, dtd 20 June 1977.

After you have repaired your HV section and verified that it is providing the correct voltage, the next part of the wiki will address how to correct problems with the displays.

5.12.2 Repairing Bally/Stern Displays

This page will help you repair your Bally 6- and 7-digit displays. The information is focused on the AS-2518-21 display. Since the AS-2518-15 display is interchangeable with the "-21" display, everything mentioned here will apply to both displays. Bally 7-digit displays (AS-2518-58) work the same way, they just contain additional components to support the additional digit, and lighting of commas. Some Stern DA-100 6-digit displays are very similar to the Bally versions, and the information here will also work for them. The Stern 7-digit display is slightly different, as its circuit board is physically deeper than any of the other displays and is not directly interchangeable with a Bally 7 digit display. Additionally, there are some input pin differences; however, if you have the schematic you can use the information here on the display, some transistors might be labeled differently.

First off, let's make sure your malfunctioning display is even repairable. If the glass display itself is shot, there's not much that can be done except to replace it. Here's a couple of photos of things that can go wrong with the glass display.

B-disp-d1.jpg
Burn spots on the digit segments - You can't fix these but you can live with them


B-disp-n1.jpg
Broken glass nipple - This display glass is ruined

Then there's the circuit board. Most if not all of the components can be replaced without much effort, but if there is damage to the circuit board itself, it may be impossible, or unreliable to repair.

B-disp-b1.jpg
Burn marks on the driver board


B-disp-b2.jpg
Underneath - The traces are a mess


So we're assuming you have displays that do not fall into the categories above. If your problem is with the digits not being displayed properly, and it's NOT the MPU's fault, then it can be fixed, and fairly easily too!

FIRST THING - Before you go any further, there are two things you should do to ALL your displays, even if they seem to be working fine. First, reflow the solder on the joints for the header pins. On the bottom side of the circuit board, just heat each header pin solder joint with your soldering iron, then add a little fresh solder. Be careful not to create any solder bridges between adjoining pins, unless there is already one there. Next, replace the six 100K ohm 1/4 watt resistors with 1/2 watters. They are the ones with the color code brown-black-yellow, and are labeled R1, R3, R5, R7, R9 and R11. You'll find seven of them, but only the ones I just listed need to be replaced. For 7-digit displays there will be eight of them, so replace R56 too, along with the six I just mentioned. 1/4 watt is just too small for their circuits and often they are overheated which causes them to change their resistance. On the photo of the burnt circuit board up above, the area that was burnt was under 3 of these resistors.

SECOND THING - Connectors, connectors, connectors! There are lots of signals going from the MPU to each display driver, and if these signals are not making it due to bad wiring or connectors, then your displays will misbehave. Check all the display driver connectors for loose or broken wires, burnt pins, busted connectors, and replace or repair anything that looks bad. Remember that some of the signals are daisy-chained from display to display, and a bad connection at one display can effect the others "downstream". Then check the J2 connector on the MPU, since this is where all the signals come from. Next check the J3 connector on the solenoid driver board. There's a high voltage regulator used by the displays on this board, and J3 is where it gets the 230 VDC from the power supply (pins 6 & 3) and feeds the regulated 190 VDC to the displays (pin 8). Finally, check the J3 connector on the rectifier board, since this is where the high voltage comes from. Connectors are always a big pain!

B-disp-hp1.jpg
Header pin solder joints - Notice the cracks around the last two pins on the right


B-disp-hp2.jpg
Header pin solder joints after being re-soldered - No cracks


B-disp-r1.jpg
Can you find the six 100K ohm resistors (brown-black-yellow)


B-disp-r2.jpg
Here they've been replaced them with 1/2 watt resistors of the same value (100K ohms)


Now we'll look at come common problems and briefly describe the cause, but I assume you've already replaced or checked the 100K Ohm resistors and re-soldered the header pins:

5.12.2.1 All displays are blank

Most likely cause of all blank displays is a lack of high voltage. First off, check F2 on the rectifier board. It's a 3/4 Amp slow blow fuse and it's test point on the rectifier board is TP2. You should read 230 VDC at this test point. If it's OK, then check the fuse on the solenoid driver board. The high voltage regulator's output is fused and if this fuse is blown then there's probably a short somewhere on one of your displays or the wiring harness. The high voltage regulator fuse is a 3/16 Amp, but it's a bit smaller (8AG) than a standard fuse, and a hard one to find. If the fuse is not blown, then the next thing to do is verify that at least 170 VDC is making it from the regulator to the displays. Check TP2 on the solenoid driver board. It should read between 170 and 190 VDC. If it does, then the regulator is working. While you're there, if your display glasses are not new, use the small trimmer pot on near the fuse and adjust the high voltage to be 170 VDC. Older displays work just fine on 170 VDC and it's less stressful.

Next thing to check is to be sure that the 170 volts is making it to the displays. Check connector pin J3-8 on the solenoid driver board, that's where the 170 VDC leaves. Check for a good connector, and check the solder joint on the header pin. The high voltage hits all of the displays at connector J1-1 and is daisy-chained from display to display. Check these connectors and the header pins too. On at least some early Stern games like Dracula, there is a fuse for the displays mounted on the back of the backbox door, often covered by a cardboard tag. It may be that these early games came without the fuse on the SDB. Check for proper amperage and continuity on this fuse holder if no voltage is reaching the displays.

Note - If there is any light at all on the display, then it is probably repairable. Some type of Bally display glasses will have some light on them, besides the digits. If there is light anywhere on the display, then the glass is most likely OK and your problems are elsewhere.

Dispglow.jpg
See how this display is glowing when it's first turned on? This indicates that the glass is good.

.

REMEMBER - 170 VDC WILL HURT!
TURN YOUR MACHINE OFF IF YOU'RE GOING TO MESS WITH IT BEYOND MEASURING VOLTAGES


If you have 170 VDC at all of the displays, and the decoder is still working, but the displays are still blank, then there is probably a problem on the MPU or the MPU connectors, such as a "stuck-on" blanking signal, etc.

If the blanking signal for the displays is stuck high or low on the MPU then the displays will remain blank. To check the blanking signal use your DMM or logic probe on MPU J1 P10. During the flash tests it should remain high (5v on DMM). Once attract mode begins it should begin pulsing (DMM will show somewhere between 1v and 4v). If the blanking signal is stuck high or low examine the blanking circuit including CR6, U14, U20. It could be the PIAs but unlikely as the power on flash test should check that the PIAs changes states. I have seen CR6 be open and cause displays to be blank.

5.12.2.2 A single display is blank

If you have one display that is blank, it could be the same problems as mentioned above (lack of 170VDC), something wrong on the circuit board, or something with the glass display itself. If you see any light glowing at all on the display, then the glass is most likely good and your problem is elsewhere.

The main cause of a single display being blank is a bad glass. If the glass is good, then your problem is most likely a bad 4543 decoder IC. The decoder on the display driver board is used to decode the digit data from the MPU into signals that light the proper displays. If the decoder is blown, then this could cause the display to be blank. A quick check with a logic probe will help you decide if the decoder is function properly.

Sometimes the solder joints on the display glass needs are cracked and need to be reflowed. Depending on which solder joints are bad, this could cause the display to be blank.

If you can verify there is 170VDc, and the decoder is working, then it may be just a bad display. If there is some light anywhere, then it's probably good. If not, it may or may not be good. A totally blank display is the hardest thing to fix. If everything looks good, but the display is completely blank, then you may just have to chalk it up as a bad display glass. Unfortunately they can not be repaired.

5.12.2.3 All displays are missing the same digit

If all the displays have the same digit out, then the problem is most likely caused by a bad connector at the MPU. The MPU daisy-chains the digit enable signal to all the displays, and if the same digit is out on all, then it's either an amazing thing that they all have a problem w/ the same digit, or the digit enable signal is not present. Check the connectors on the MPU and all of the displays. If all seem well, then one-by-one, disconnect each display and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then there's a short or a bad connector problem on the board you just removed. Be sure to turn the power off between swap-outs, and wait 10 seconds for the high voltage filter capacitor to discharge before you remove any connectors.

5.12.2.4 The Same Number is Displayed Multiple Times During Display Test

If one or all of the displays show the same number more than once during display test, (ie. instead of 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 being displayed, 0,0,2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8 or similar is displayed), the 4543 decoder chip on one of the displays is probably bad. To test this, turn the power off, and disconnect all displays but one. Continuing performing this procede until the suspect display is found. DO NOT REMOVE THE CONNECTOR FROM THE DISPLAY WITH THE POWER ON. This will result in damage to the MPU board, the display, or both.

5.12.2.5 One display is missing the same segments on all the digits

Each display has it's own decoder chip, which takes four inputs from the MPU and outputs seven signals to light the seven segments of a digit. If you're having problems with one or more segments on all the digits, then it's either the segment driver transistor or the decoder itself. I'm sure there's a way to test the transistor but I just go ahead and install a new one. If that doesn't fix it, then replacing the decoder will. I've not had a segment problem that was not fixed by replacing both segment drivers and decoders (other than MPU problems). Be sure to orient the transistor and/or IC in the proper position. You'll notice a flat side on the transistor and a small notch on one end of the decoder IC. Be sure they line up just like the one you removed, and that the wires of the transistor go into the same holes that the old one came out of. Also, if you're replacing the IC, use a socket, so it'll be easier to replace it next time. Here's a handy chart that shows which segment driver transistor drives which segment, and another diagram of how the segments are labeled. Just find the segment that's giving you trouble on the chart, then look up it's corresponding driver transistor. Then find this transistor on the circuit board and replace it.

B-decoder-chart.jpg
5.12.2.6 One display has a segment locked on all digits

The segment driver has failed. When this issue is seen a lot of times the display will be blank except for the locked on segment. Replace the segment driver (see chart above) and then retest the display. If the display now works except for the segment drive you replaced is now turned off then replace the decoder chip. When the segment driver locks on it usually blows out that segment on the decoder chip.


5.12.2.7 One digit is out on one of the displays

If there is a single digit out, then it's probably the the level shifter and digit driver transistors for that digit. Just to be sure, check the connector on the display at pins J1-4 through J1-9. These are the connectors that supply the digit-enable signals from the MPU. The problem may be that the display driver is not getting the enable signal from the MPU. If it is, then just replace the two transistors and you should be back in business. Here's a handy chart that shows you which level shifter and digit driver are associated with each digit. The transistor labels should be printed on the circuit board, or look at the diagram below. Just look at this chart, find the digit that's blank, and then locate the two transistors listed for that digit. Find them on the circuit board and replace them.

Digit Level Shifter
(MPS-A42) 		Digit Driver
(2N5401)
1's Q1 Q7
10's Q2 Q8
100's Q3 Q9
1,000's Q4 Q10
10,000's Q5 Q11
100,000's Q6 Q12
1,000,000's Q20 Q21
5.12.2.8 One display is missing a digit or segment

If one digit or segment is out on a display, but segment drivers, transistors, and the IC have all been replaced, be sure to check the resistors for damage and that they are giving the correct resistance.

If all else fails, try gently flexing or wiggling the glass a little bit to see if the segment or digit lights up. If that's the case, there may be an issue with one of the finger leads on the glass.

In the best case scenario, there is merely a cracked solder joint on a finger lead where it is soldered to the PCB.

Sometimes, the finger lead has been stressed and will snap on the top side of the PCB above the solder joint. A jumper wire might be able to address this.

In the worst case scenario, the finger lead has separated from the contact pad inside the glass. Unfortunately, there is not currently a recommended approach for performing a repair.

One suggestion included using a dremmel tool to drill out the glass to expose the finger contact, and then solder a jumper wire to it (note that solder might or might not stick to the contact, and instead, conductive glue or silver epoxy may need to be used, similar how a repair for a broken lead wire in a DMD display on newer games is performed).

On 6-digit glass, all the contacts are on the same side of the slot for the finger leads, and if the front side of the glass is drilled out, all the contacts accessible. On 7-digit glass, the contacts alternate which side of the slot inside the glass that they are adhered to, so only about half of these contacts are accessible from the front of the glass--some are adhered to that same front side that needs to be drilled out. So, it might not be possible to access all the contacts on a 7-digit glass.

7-digit glass with alternating contact pads


5.12.2.9 One digit is very bright, and the rest are out

If you have one digit that's very bright and all the rest are out, simply replace the digit driver and level shifter transistors for that digit. Turns out sometimes a short transistor will draw so much current that there's not enough left to drive the remaining digits, and so they all go blank. Just use the chart above to determine which transistors to replace.

5.12.2.10 Display(s) flicker
Closeup of Cracked Header Pins on a Bally/Stern Display Module. These cracks caused rapid "flicker" of the display.
Magnified view of a cold solder joint on a Bally/Stern Display Module.


This is almost always caused by fractured solder joints at the header pins. If you have already re-flowed the solder, double check them, then look for other broken solder joints and check all connectors for tight fits. Something is loose that's making them flicker. This "flicker" is about the fastest flicker you can imagine.

Another cause of flickering or strobing digits is a faulty decoder IC. If your digits are flickering or "wavy", try replacing the decoder IC.

YT.png Here is a link to a video of a display board with a faulty 4543 decoder IC. Keep in mind that failed / failing decoder chips do emit symptoms other than what is seen in the video. Please see the other symptoms discussed above in this section.

Yet another cause of flicker is low HV or a shorted display that drags down the HV.

Centaur Specific

Centaur, being a multiball game, requires that all 5 balls be in the trough. This means that switch 2, "5th Ball Trough", must be seen by the MPU as being closed. Unless the MPU sees switch 2 as closed, the displays will flicker.

5.12.2.11 Conclusion

That covers the most common display problems. If the pinball machine manual is not available, click on any of the thumbnails below for a large picture of the component layout of the all three boards. The 100K Ohm resistors are the ones colored brown-black-yellow.

5.13 Sound problems

Regardless of the sound board, it is always best to first remove the existing solder from the header pins, and reflow new solder onto them. Due to vibration over time, the header pin connections can end up with cracked solder joints, which is very common on the Bally sound boards. The next order of business would to replace the volume pot and the secondary pot, if one is used on the board. The original, factory pots used were not sealed, therefore, dirt and other contaminants can cause the pot to have dead spots or fail in general. Once these two things are done initially, troubleshooting the sound board, if it's still not working will be a lot easier.

If the board is still not working after the above recommended procedures, the next thing would be to check all of the voltages used on the board. See the Sound Test Point Value section for the test point voltage values for each particular sound board.

If all of the voltages check out, it's time to move onto the appropriate sound board troubleshooting section below.

5.13.1 AS-2518-32 & AS-2518-50 Sound Board Troubleshooting

Typical cracked solder joints on the header pins of a -32 board
Close-up of severely cracked solder joints on the header pins of a -32 board


The first course of action, before performing any troubleshooting to the board, is to inspect the header pin connections on the reverse side of the board. It is common to have cracked joints, where the header pins are soldered to the board. If cracked solder joints are apparent, heat and remove the old solder, and reflow new solder onto the connections. This will ensure that incoming voltages, ground and sound signals are solid on the board itself. Inspection of the connectors located in the female housing, which connects to the header pins, is equally a good idea. Replace any connectors that appear to be marginal. Molex Trifurcon crimp connectors are recommended as replacements.

Minimal component replacement for -32 and -50 boards


There are several components which should be replaced on these boards to speed the troubleshooting process. Both the -32 and -50 sound boards use at least two 10Kohm pots. One pot controls overall volume. The other pot controls sound sustain (or tone duration). Both pots should be replaced to eliminate them as possible culprits and improve reliability. Likewise, a 1N4004 diode (CR3) is used on the board at the incoming +43vdc. Should this diode fail, it can cause the CPU to halt at 6 flashes at boot up.

Capacitor kits for both the -32 and -50 boards are available from GPE. Although it is not always necessary to replace the caps on these boards, it is recommended.

Should the 86L93 (U11) chip fail, the 74LS93 is a viable substitute.

There is a great repair website with step-by-step checkpoints, created by Oliver Okaegi. You do need to have scope to see the signals.

Voltage Test Points
The following DC voltages are required and may be measured on the sound board:

  • TP1 = 5v,
  • TP3 = 12v,
  • TP4 = 43v.

If any voltages are missing, check the connectors. Specifically check the integrity of the header pins.

12v regulator section:
Check for 67 volts on the positive side of C17. If missing replace CR3. If positive side of C17 is the same as TP4(43v) replace C17 and CR3.

If 12v is too high, check Q1, R22, CR4, and C18.

Clock Generator:
U1(4049) can fail. Check for about 2.5vdc where R3 and R5 meet. (On my functioning -50 board, I see .8vdc at this point) If voltage incorrect replace U1 which is a 4049 hex inverter. If still incorrect suspect U4 which is a 4526B programmable 4 bit counter. The 4526 can be purchased from vendors such as Mouser or Digi-Key.

Amplification / no sound issues:
First, make certain that the cabinet speaker is present, connected, and functioning. If an audible hum is heard from the speaker, then the amp is working. Next, check both pots. It is best to replace them if they are the originals (typically blue or black thumb wheel pots). Measuring across the two outer legs of the pot is the total resistance (10k). Measuring from the middle leg gives a resistance with regards to how the pot is adjusted (a value from 0 ohms to 10 kohms depending on the pot's position).

To check the amplifier at U9 (LM741), look for about 2vdc at U9 pin 2. (On my functioning -50 board, I see 6vdc at U9 pin 2. Before replacement, 12vdc was seen when it wasn't functioning.) If voltage is missing, replace the amp. Note that the LM741 must be a specific part; part number LM741CN. Other LM741 parts may work, but often the volume is not amplified, resulting in only low volume output. A modification to the -32 sound board can be made to overcome this issue. The modification adds three components to the -32 sound board that Bally added to the -50 sound board during production. A discussion of this mod can be found here.


5.13.2 AS-2518-51 Sound Board Troubleshooting

Bally AS-2518-51 Sound Board


Although the AS-2518-51 sound board uses a 6800 family of microprocessor, the lack of an on-board, boot status LED makes this board more difficult to troubleshoot than the Squawk and Talk sound board. On the plus side, this sound board utilizes some of the same ICs, which are commonly found on the game's MPU board. Fortunately, all of the larger ICs on this board are socketed. Like the OEM sockets on the MPU board, the sockets used on this board are subject to failure. Replacement with new, high quality sockets is advised to eliminate this possible cause of failure and for long term reliability.

The first course of action, before performing any troubleshooting to the board, is to inspect the header pin connections on the reverse side of the board. It is common to have cracked solder joints, where the header pins are soldered to the board. If cracked solder joints are apparent, heat and remove the old solder, and reflow new solder onto the connections. This will ensure that incoming voltages, ground and sound select signals are solid on the board itself. Inspection of the connectors located in the female housing, which connects to the header pins, is equally a good idea. Replace any connectors that appear to be marginal. Molex Trifurcon crimp connectors are recommended as replacements.

Like all sound boards of this age, the capacitors are likely to have dried out and are no longer doing their job. Capacitor kits for this board can be acquired at Great Plains Electronics. Installing a cap kit brings most dead boards back to life.

If the board is producing no sound at all, start by checking the volume adjustment pot. When turning the pot, the volume of the hum should get quieter and louder. If this is not heard, the amp/pot may be bad. If the hum volume changes, it is likely that the amp and pot are working. However, the 1K volume adjustment pot is 30+ years old, and was an "open" design. It is recommended that this pot be replaced with a quality sealed 1K ohm pot, whether or not the original pot tests good.

Check the power at the board with a DMM. TP3 is ground. TP2 and TP1 should measure 5VDC and 12VDC respectively. These are nominal values. Minor variation from these values is acceptable.

Next, it is time to check the large ICs on the board itself. First, swap the 6821 PIA at U2 on the sound board with either U10 or U11 on the MPU, and retest. Second, swap the 6810 RAM at U10 on the sound board with the 6810 at U7 on the MPU and retest.

If the problem persists, swap in a known good sound ROM at U4 and retest. Pay particular attention to the legs of U4, if it is a factory masked ROM. It is common for the legs of these masked ROMs to oxidize or tarnish, just like the masked ROMs used on the MPU board. Hence, the legs can be fragile, and are easily broken. Likewise, tarnished legs on U4 could potentially be responsible for the lack of sound. Evidence of oxidation is visible in the form of blackened chip legs (silver oxide). The oxidation can be removed in several ways. The most common methods are gently using a pencil eraser over the legs, or soaking the chip legs in Tarn-X, followed by rinsing the legs in clean water, and allowing to dry before re-installation. As mentioned previously, if the legs are oxidized, use extreme caution when removing the chip from its socket and removing the oxidation.

If a known good 6808 (a 6802 can be used when jumper A is installed, and jumper B removed) is available, swap it for the processor at U3 and retest.

If a known good AY-3-8910 is available, swap it for the sound IC at U1 and retest. The AY-3-8910 produces ALL of the sound from this board. If sounds continue to play after the completion of a game, this can be caused by a failed AY-3-8910.

The sound interrupt signal and the sound select signal IC should also be checked. Connect a logic probe to the board; red lead at TP2 (+5VDC), black lead at TP3 (GND). With J1 connected to the game, place the probe on pin 40 of the PIA at U2. The signal should start high. When the game's MPU completes it's 7th flash, it will command the sound board to make the boot sound. At this point, pin 40 will go low for a split second, then return to high. If all goes well, consider the sound interrupt signal good.

Test the function of the sound select inverter 4049 at U5. U5 is a simple hex inverter. In attract mode, with no sounds being produced, pin 3 should be low, pin 2 should be high. Pins 5/4, 7/6, and 14/15 should test the same as pins 3/2 respectively. Pins 9 and 11 may not be connected on the game. If so, there will be no signal on those pins. However, their "inverted" signals at pins 10 and 12 should be high. Pins 13 and 16 are not connected.

The 6808 / 6802, AY-3-8910, and 6821 ICs require a reset signal which is created via a 1N4004, 1Mohm resistor, and NAND gates at U6 (4011). Test the 1N4004 diode via normal diode test. U6 can be tested with a logic probe similarly to U5. With a logic probe on pin 40 of the 6808 processor, at power on the signal will remain low for a split second and then go high.

The external clock signal can be probed at pin 37 of the 6808. It should pulse steadily. If not, suspect the crystal oscillator.

Although U7 is specified as a 555 timer IC on the schematics, it is not listed on the BOM, and was not installed on this board. Nor were any of the several discrete components to the right of the U7 solder pads (i.e. C10, C11, R11, R12).

Loud Hum
While it might seem OK to connect analog and digital ground for testing on the bench, this causes the board to produce a loud hum. Pin 15 (analog ground) must be grounded separately from pins 6 and 14 (digital ground).

5.13.3 Sounds Plus Sound Board Troubleshooting

This is a stub.

5.13.4 Vocalizer Speech Board Troubleshooting

There is a repair guide on pinside for addressing ROM issues and replacing the original ROMs with EPROMS.

5.13.5 Squawk & Talk Sound Board Troubleshooting

5.13.5.1 Sound Test Reference

The following video links demonstrate properly operating Squawk & Talk sound boards.

YT.png Place Holder.

5.13.5.2 Basic Information
Bally Squawk & Talk Jumper Locations. Note that the -61B revision of the board contains a jumper FF located within the stack of resistors below the AD558. Neither the -61 or the -61a revision has this jumper.


The image at left indicates jumper and test point locations. Jumper settings for various game and ROM combinations can be found here.

Test Point Number and Functions

   TP     Function 
1
  Ground 
2
  +5VDC 
3
  +11.5VDC 
4
  -5VDC 
5
  Speech Volume Control Voltage 
6
  Sound Volume Control Voltage 
7
  AY-3-8912 Output 
8
  E (external clock provided by the 6808/6802) 
9
  TMS5200 Output 
10
  VMA (valid memory address) 
11
  TMS5200 clock (not used. Would clock the TMS6100) 
12
  Reset 

Source: Bally AS-2518-61 Squawk and Talk Schematics.

Integrated Circuits used by the Squawk & Talk sound board.

  • U1 - Motorola 6802 or 6808 8-bit microprocessor
  • U2 - ROM
  • U3 - ROM
  • U4 - ROM
  • U5 - ROM
  • U6 - 6810 RAM (only used if a 6808 microprocessor is used. If a 6802 is used, the socket is empty)
  • U7 - 6821 PIA for controlling the speech IC - TMS5200 VSP and TMS6100 VSM phrase ROM
  • U8 - TMS 5200 VSP Speech IC (does not occupy address space)
  • U9 - TMS6100 VSM 16k byte Phrase ROM containing speech data (never populated). Again, it does not occupy address space
  • U10- AD558 DAC for converting digital wave data stored in the ROMs to audio
  • U11- 6821 PIA for controlling the AY-3-8912 sound IC and the test LED
  • U12- General Instruments AY-3-8912 PSG (Programmable Sound Generator) IC, which again, does not occupy address space
5.13.5.3 The Very Easy Simple Fix aka the General Illumination is Out

If for some reason, the general illumination is not lit on the playfield or backbox of the game, suspect a blown 20A fast blow F5 fuse on the power module or possibly fuse clips in poor condition. One leg of the general illumination is fed to the Squawk & Talk, and it becomes the -5VDC, which is one of the voltages needed to power the TMS5200 speech chip. Without the general illumination, the Squawk & Talk board will not successfully boot!

5.13.5.4 General Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting the Bally Squawk & Talk board is much simpler than it might first seem. First, the board provides "blink codes" at power up, similar to the way that Bally MPUs do. These codes help isolate the failed component.

The legs of the TMS5200 Speech Processor chip almost always tarnish over time, perhaps due to the legs and the socket being constructed from dissimilar metals. Replacing the socket and removing the tarnish is always advisable. Be cautious as the legs sometimes become fragile.

The Squawk & Talk sound board is itself a single board computer. At it's heart is the 6808 processor with external RAM, or the 6802 processor with integrated RAM. Two 6821 PIAs are used to interface the processor to peripheral devices. The 6821 at U11 provides an interface to the AY-3-8912 (if used) or the U16, a 4049 inverter where sound selects are sent from the MPU. The 6821 at U7 provides the interface to the TMS5200 Speech Processor.

Up to 4 ROMs can populate the board with either 2716, 2532, or 2732 ROMs.

An AD558 DAC (digital to analog converter) is used to make traditional pinball beeps, squeeks, and tones.

A TMS5200 Speech Processor is used to convert digitally stored (and compressed) sound information in the ROMs to analog "speech" (which can also be sounds).

An AY-3-8912 Sound Generator is sometimes populated at U12 to produce simple tone sounds.

Two LM3900 operational amplifiers (op amps) amplify the analog signals from both the speech and the sound lanes before they are summed and provided to the main amplifier.

At TDA2002 amplifier is used at the final stage of amplification. A TDA2003 may be used to replace this amp.

Variable 1KOhm pots at R69 and R70 control speech and sound volumes independently (respectively).

Provisions are available for controlling volume via external pots by connecting to J2, pins 5 and 6.

The 5V regulator sometimes develops cold solder joints. Without 5VDC, the diagnostic LED won't blink at all.


Techniques
Power the board on the bench.
Recognize blink codes.
Check voltage regulation circuits.
Use the "self-test" button.
Isolate the problem to the "digital" section or the "analog" section.
Use a logic probe to "listen" at points in the analog section.

Powering the Bally Squawk & Talk Sound Board on the Bench.


Powering the board on the bench
To power the board on the bench, use an old computer power supply that is capable of providing -5VDC and +12VDC.

  • Connect +12VDC to J1 pin 10. The board will use the +12VDC and will also regulate it down to +5VDC
  • Connect -5VDC to TP4
  • Connect the power supply ground to TP1

Double check all of your connections before applying power.

If the board is a -61b revision, as used in Centaur for instance, install a temporary jumper at location "FF". This allows operation without attaching the "Say it again" board.

Blink Codes
An overview of "Blink Codes" follows.
For a more in depth discussion of these blink codes, see the excellent information developed by Clive Jones, here.

   Blink     Meaning 
 First "flicker"   The processor has found the program code in ROM, and has begun to configure the board. 
 First Blink   The 128 bytes of system RAM (either within the 6802, or external in the 6810 if configured with a 6808) have tested good. 
 Second Blink   The 6821 PIA at U7 (which controls speech) has passed test. 
 Third Blink   The 6821 PIA at U11 (which interfaces with the AY-3-8912 and fields sound codes from the MPU) has passed test. 
 Fourth Blink   Communication with the AY-3-8912 has passed. Note that the PIA at U11 must be communicating correctly with the AY-3-8912 for this test to pass. If there is no fourth blink, first swap a known good 6821 into U11. 
 Fifth Blink   The TMS5200 Speech Chip has passed testing. 

Pressing the red diagnostic button on the Squawk and Talk board, should cause the board to play various speech calls (games like Medusa seem to go on forever, Spectrum plays only a short speech call) followed by a sound call. The speech is generated by the TMS5200. The lone sound call at the end of this test is generated by either the AY-3-8912 (as in EBD, for instance) or the AD558 digital-to-analog converter. At the conclusion of playing these various speech calls and sound call, the board then reboots itself, and the same blink codes should be seen.

Basic maintenance actions
There are 5 actions you can take to ease the process of debugging the S&T board (priority order):

  1. Ensure the correct jumpers are installed, matching the game and sound ROM type
  2. Replace ALL electrolytic capacitors on the board
  3. Replace both 1KOhm pots (one for speech, one for sound)
  4. Replace IC sockets (empty sockets don't need to be replaced obviously, ScanBe sockets must go, RU sockets can remain)
  5. Replace .156 male headers at J1 and J2 (at a minimum, reflow the solder joints)

Completing each of the above items usually results in a working Squawk & Talk board.

Capacitor list and recommended modern replacements
C1 - Axial Electrolytic 47uF, 25 Volt
C14 - Axial Electrolytic 4700uF, 25 Volt
C15 - Axial Electrolytic 10uF, 50 Volt
C19, C24, C25, C28, C31, C34 and C42 (7 capacitors) - Axial Electrolytic 1uF, 50 Volt
C27 - Axial Electrolytic 1000uF, 25 Volt
C29 - Axial Electrolytic 470uF, 16 Volt
C36 and C43 (2 capacitors) - Axial Electrolytic 2.2uF, 50 Volt
C37 and C38 (2 capacitors) - Axial Electrolytic 330uF, 50 Volt

5.13.5.5 Locked on LED on Squawk & Talk Sound Board (Minimizing Chips Needed to Boot)

As mentioned above, there are LED blink codes used when passing specific chip tests during the boot up process. However, the Squawk & Talk sound board is similar to the Bally -17 / -35 MPUs, and it too can end up with the dreaded locked on LED. The end result is the board not proceeding through the boot process. On the plus side, battery damage is far less of an issue for the S&T board versus the MPU board.

For starters, it would be best to reduce the amount of chips installed on the S&T board to try to get it to boot. At a minimum, only the following. factory socketed chips are needed to achieve some "signs of life" out of the board. Only having these chips installed will not allow the board to complete its boot up process. However, chips can be installed in a systematic method to get the board to successfully boot.

Flicker
To achieve a flicker from the diagnostic LED on the board, the U1 CPU (either a 6808 or 6802), the U11 PIA (this 6820 or 6821 activates the LED), and the U5 ROM (boot up instructions are located on U5). Make certain that the jumper settings are correct for U1 and U5. Keep in mind that a known working 6820 / 6821 can be acquired from a working Bally MPU board. Likewise, the 6820 / 6821 from the S&T board can be installed in a known working MPU board to test.

If the board still has a locked on LED, the following things should be investigated:

  • Make sure that the reset on the CPU chip starts low briefly and then goes high. With a logic probe, check pin 40 of U1. If the reset does not go high, suspect C1 (47uF 25v), CR1 (1N4148), R1 (27K 1/4w), U15 (74LS14), or possibly U17 (74LS155).
  • Next, check for an active clock signal. With a logic probe, check pins 38 and 39 of U1. Both legs of the CPU should be pulsing (some logic probes may not pulse, the clock voltage is rather low). These legs go directly to the clock crystal (Y1 - 3.58 mHz). If these signals are not pulsing, suspect the crystal or its associated capacitors, C3 and C4 (both are 27pF caps). It is fairly common for the crystals to fail on these boards.
  • Make sure that the transistor (Q1 - 2N3904 or 2N4401) which drives the LED is functioning.
  • Again, check that the correct jumpers are installed. If the incorrect jumpers are installed for U1 / U6 (K or L) or U5 (Y, Z, AA, BB), the LED will remain solidly lit.
  • Inspect the chip sockets. Although the chip sockets used on the S&T are of decent quality, they have aged and can fail. If a chip can be removed from its socket by merely pulling it out with one's fingers, the socket is bad and needs replaced.
  • Lastly, make certain that U1, U5, and U11 are good.

1st Flash
Once a flicker is achieved, the road to recovery is much smoother. Install the U6 RAM (6810), if using a 6808 CPU at U1. A good 6810 can be pulled from a working MPU board. Likewise, the 6810 on the S&T board can be tested in a known working MPU board. If using a 6802, the 6810 is not needed. Also, the 1st flash will be automatic with just the 6802 installed, as long as jumper K is installed. Having U6 installed with a 6802 CPU chip installed does not hurt anything, and either the L or K jumper can be installed, as long as the 6810 is good.

2nd Flash
Install the U7 PIA (6820 / 6821). Again, a good PIA can be acquired from a known working MPU board.

3rd Flash
Since the U11 PIA (6820 / 6821) is already installed, the 3rd flash should appear, if this chip is good.

4th Flash
Install the U12 sound generator chip (AY-3-8912), if it is used. If the U12 chip is not used, the 5 EE jumpers must be installed.

5th Flash
Install the U8 speech generator chip (TMS5200). It is very common for the speech chips to have tarnished legs. To remove the tarnish, a pencil eraser can be used, if used very gently and cautiously. Tarn-X is a much better product to remove the tarnish.

Closing Notes
Once the board boots, a single sound is typically heard. A single sound is typically heard when the test button is pressed too. At this point, the remaining sound ROM(s) can be installed. Again, make certain the ROMs have the appropriate jumpers installed. If the incorrect jumpers are installed, the LED will remain solidly lit.

The U10 DAC (AD558) does not need to be installed at any point during the above process to get the board to successfully boot. However, U10 must be installed to generate all of the sounds associated with any particular game.

5.13.5.6 Speech is Heard but No Sounds

If the board is booting, but only speech can be heard, and the above "Basic maintenance actions" were not performed, there are several things which can make this occur. The first would be to make certain the sound potentiometer is functioning. Dead spots and / or a completely failed pot can cause the sounds not to be heard. Secondly, replace the electrolytic capacitors. This should be done in most cases anyhow. If after replacing the capacitors did not cause the board to produce sounds, there are a couple of other things to look at.

A starting point would be to make certain that the wiring harness is intact between the MPU and S&T boards. To test this, place an alligator clip on each of the resistors located on the bottom left of the board. The sound signals come into these resistors first. Next, take the alligator test lead, and attach it to one side of a DMM. Put the DMM in contintuity mode. Place the other lead of the DMM on the resistor leg of R97-R100 and R106 located on the MPU board. Repeat the steps for each sound signal. Performing a continuity test in this manner (from board to board) narrows down bad connectors and / or header pins.

If the harness is all right, make certain the U16 (4049) inverter on the S&T has not failed.

5.13.5.7 Pitch of Speech is too high/low
R9, shown in-situ, on the Bally Squawk and Talk board. Note that this 120K resistor is not the OEM resistor and has been substituted.

The "pitch" of Squawk and Talk speech can be adjusted by varying the value of resistor R9, pictured in-situ at left. Typically, in almost every instance, the factory value of the resistor is 130K 1/4W. However, Flash Gordon uses a 240K resistor.

YT.png If changing out the typical 130K resistor, using a higher resistance (140K) resistor will lower the pitch; a lower resistance resistor (100K) will increase the pitch. Example videos of both higher and lower pitch speech using these resistor values can be found here (high, low)

5.13.5.8 Speech is Garbled, Clipped, or Unintelligible

The TMS5200 is practically unobtainable as of July, 2020. At times, a TMS5220 will be substituted to replace a failed TMS5200. The TMS5220 will create voice, but the audio will be garbled and somewhat unintelligible.

YT.png A video comparing "Flash Gordon" voice/sound diagnostics with a TMS5200 and a TMS5220 can be found here.

5.13.5.9 Hum In Voice Circuit

If the "hum" present during voice calls is noticeably louder than the "hum" present during sound calls, this can be caused by excessive AC "noise" in the -5VDC generation circuit.

Isolating the hum to the voice or sound circuit is as simple as adjusting the trim pots clockwise to reduce the volume of that channel. The hum can be caused by failed C37 or C38 (both 330uf/50V axial caps). However, if the board has been recapped, which is always advisable for this board, and the hum is still present, suspect the 7905 negative 5VDC regulator.

5.13.6 Say It Again Reverb Board Troubleshooting

This is a stub.

5.13.7 Cheap Squeak Sound Board Troubleshooting

The schematic for this board can be found here: File:BallyCheapSqueakSchematics.pdf

Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board A080-91603-XXXX or Midway P/N M-051-00114-XXXX

At power up, the Cheap Squeak's LED will flicker briefly, then flash, flash again, then turn on and stay on. Once the LED stays on, it seems to turn itself off for certain sounds, and then turn back on. Likewise, it appears to idle with the LED on, when no sounds are playing.

The Cheap Squeak uses a single 1Kohm volume pot. If repairing this board, replace the pot with a high quality sealed 1K pot.

Test Points

  • TP1 should measure about 11VDC.
  • TP2 is 5VDC.
  • TP3 is ground.
  • TP4 is the clock signal, provided externally by the 6803 for the purpose of synchronizing address and data read cycles.
  • TP5 is the reset signal, which is also present on pin 6 of the 6803.

Bench Testing

  1. To power the board on the bench, provide 12VDC to J1, pin 10.
  2. Provide ground from the power supply to J1 pins 14 and 15.
  3. Connect a small speaker to the speaker output pins at J2 (2 pins).
  4. The board generates it's own 5VDC via a 7805 voltage regulator at U9. Therefore, an external 5VDC source does not need to be connected.

Special Note
The +5v can be connected directly to TP2, or +12V can be connected to TP1 to power the board. However, both do not need to be connected. If powering the board in this manner, the power amp will not be powered. +12v needs to be connected to the bottom of the L1 inductor, and ground connected either to the left leg of the L3 inductor or the left leg of the large capacitor at the bottom of the board (C24).

When powered on, the reset circuitry on the board holds pin 6 of the 6803 (~RESET) low for a split second, then allows it to go high.

Pressing SW1 should cause the board to generate a test sound, then the board reboots itself. Note that different sound ROMs may act differently. Generating a tone and rebooting is characteristic of the "X's and O's" sound ROM.

The test sound can be heard using an inexpensive logic probe like the Elenco LP-560 at some points in the analog sound path. Attach the logic probe to +5VDC (TP2) and Ground (TP3) on the board. Probe pin 4 of the ZN429 DAC then press SW1. Some sort of tone should sound briefly, then the board will reboot. The tone can also be heard at pins 1 and 4 of the TDA2002 amp. Unfortunately, between the amp and R25, a logic probe isn't adequate for cheaply hearing the tone. However, if there is a tone at pin 4 of the ZN429, but no tone at pin 1 of the amp, then there is a good chance that the LM3900 has failed.

An example of a blown tantalum capacitor on a Cheap Squeak board (blue caps, top blown)

The Cheap Squeak board likes to blow the tantalum caps as shown in the picture on the left. While it's unclear why they tend to blow, simply replacing the blown cap usually returns the board to proper function. A gentle reminder, tantalum caps ARE polarized and must be installed in the correct direction, or they will burst into flames and/or explode, which could lead to injury. The marking for C22 isn't clear on the Cheap Squeak board. Use a multimeter to determine which through-hole is ground, and install accordingly. Most tantalum caps are marked on the +/positive side lead.

This link contains some additional info regarding the Cheap Squeak sound board.

5.13.7.1 Cheap Squeak Schematic Errors

Note that the Cheap Squeak schematics for Black Pyramid have some incorrect info regarding the connections for U3 pin 2 to ground and U3 pin 20 to U4 pin 10.

Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board Schematics w/ incorrect info
Bally Cheap Squeak Sound Board Schematics adjusted to the board layout

All Cheap Squeak schematics have the following error. Diodes D7 and D8 are connected opposite of what the schematics state. Also, test point (TP1) is not located where the schematics show that it is. Please see the pic to the left (original schematics), and the pic to the right (corrected areas are circled).

5.13.8 SB-100 Sound Board

Technical write up regarding the SB-100 sound board is located here.

Just some general tech notes. Please be advised of the following per the Stern SB-100 sound board schematics. A single 220mfd 50v capacitor can be installed at either position C47 and C48. Likewise, two 100mfd 50v capacitors at these two positions are acceptable substitutes. Even though the circuit board stencils are marked with a "+" on one of the cap leg positions, the capacitor(s) at these positions must bi-polar / non-polarized.

5.13.8.1 Sound Board Does not Make Sound at all

Much like the www.techdose.com website recommends, check for cold solder joints on all of the header connections. Since all of the generations of these boards are all single-sided, they are susceptible to cold / cracked solder joints. Also, make certain that the ribbon cables or harnesses are installed correctly. Pin 1 J5 of the MPU board should connect to pin 1 J1 on the sound board. If sound is still not present, check the voltage test points on the board. Finally, make certain that the amp is powered (a slight hum will be heard), the speaker is good, and the volume potentiometer is turned up and / or good too.

5.13.8.2 Missing Sounds on the Fully Populated SB-100 Sound Board

During solenoid test, the first 6 solenoids are allocated for sound board sounds. If sounds are only heard during the first 4 solenoids during test, it may not be that they are actually missing. Make certain that the MPU dipswitch 23 is set to on, otherwise only the first 4 sounds will be triggered during solenoid test. Hearing only 4 sounds is normal operation, if the sound board is set for chime sounds only.

5.13.8.3 Missing Sounds on the Less Populated SB-100 Sound Board

The sounds for the games using the less populated boards are not the first 6 solenoids, like the fully populated sound boards. Instead, the sounds are the last things triggered during solenoid test. And, if the game's dipswitch is set for chimes (dipswitch 23 on some of the later games), no sounds will be heard, when the sound board's sounds should be triggered.

5.13.8.4 Second Generation SB-100 Sound Board Does not Allow MPU to Boot (Typically After a Successful 1st Boot)
Stern Service Bulletin 11
Stern SB-100 Less Populated (second generation) Sound Board. Note the 47Kohm resistor installed in place of a standard jumper, and the tantalum cap installed from one leg of the unpopulated C52 to the 47Kohm resistor. This is a common factory fix found on most second generation SB-100 sound boards.


At some point, Stern released a service bulletin, regarding a fix to keep from erroneous info showing up in bookkeeping, due to "multiple toggling of the power switch of the game". With this bulletin, it recommends that a 47Kohm resistor and 3.3uF 6v tantalum capacitor be installed on the /RESET line of the 74107 chip. Likewise, pin 25 at J1 should be removed from the SB-100, or removal of the line that comes from the MPU, as this is the data line that carries the /RESET line.

Factory modification on second generation board where /RESET line and +5V is tied together presuming that J1 pin 25 is removed.
/RESET line cut on a second generation sound board


What is not stated in the service bulletin is that if pin 25 of J1 or the cable is not removed, the /RESET line and the +5V on the SB-100 will be tied together. The end result is a sound board that seems fine upon the very first boot of a "cold" game. If the game has been on at all, subsequent attempts of turning the game on and off results in an MPU board that is locked up. The signs of it locked up are that the diagnostic LED on the MPU board will never come on or is on immediately and stays locked on. The sound board also may belch out a very obnoxious loud BLURT, akin to a siren which does not descend in sound, that continues unless the game is turned off.

To resolve the problem without question, it is best just to cut the /RESET line right before it is tied to the +5V line.

Although this issue has not been observed on the first generation SB-100, which is fully populated, it can occur if the suggested service bulletin modification is performed.

One thing to note is that this problem doesn't appear to occur when using an Alltek Ultimate MPU board. Also, the problem can be overcome when using a Two Bits Fix-It board by pressing the reset button (performing a hard reset).

5.13.8.5 Removing the Sound Blurt from the SB-100 Upon MPU Boot Up
An MCP120-460DI reset generator and 4.7K pull up resistor added to the 2nd generation sound board


Don't like the initial "PEW" sound that the SB-100 board blurts out when the MPU first turns on, add a reset generator to the board. A reset generator can be added to the sound board, which ties the /RESET line of the reset generator to pin 10 of U6 (the CLR signal for the 74107). In this example, an MCP120-460DI reset generator was used along with an external 4.7Kohm pullup resistor. Note that a small hole must be drilled into the board to pick up the needed +5V for the center leg of the reset generator. An MCP130-460DI can be used just as easily, and an external pullup resistor will not be needed. The board shown here is a 2nd generation board. A 1st generation board should be the same procedure.

5.13.8.6 Mapping the Sound Signals on the SB-100
SB-100 sound signals noted on the input side of the board.
SB-100 sound signals noted on the output side of the board.


These two pics show the specific six different sound paths of the SB-100. If a specific sound is missing from the board, hopefully these will help in locating the failure point a little easier.

SB-100 sound signals annotated on a hi-resolution image. Cleaned up image provided by PinSider La4s. Annotation by Jim Palson.


The image at left consolidates the two images above.

5.13.8.7 Bench Testing the SB-100

Connect the SB-100 board with the two ribbons normally used to connect the board to the MPU.


Additionally, connect the following as shown below...

  • J2/6 - 12VDC
  • J2/3 - Ground
  • J3/8-9 - Speaker
  • An 8Kohm resistor across J3 pins 1 and 3. 8Kohm provides a reasonable volume for debugging.
Bench connections for the Stern SB-100 sound board


5.13.8.8 Adjusting the Sound Quality on a Stern SB-100 board

Earlier versions of the Stern SB-100 Sound board can have an unpleasant high pitched sound for all the different sounds. STERN advises the following changes to lower the frequency of the tones, which sound much better to my ears.

  • Replace all 3 of the 5k potentiometers at R2,R6, & R13 with 25k ohm pots. Suggested part # is 15mm Piher PT15LH06-253A2020
  • Replace the 2.2k ohm resistor at R12 with an 8.2k ohm 1/4 watt resistor
  • Upon completion of component replacement, adjust the trim pots according to the instructions below
The 3rd generation SB-100 with pots and complimentary test points notated


Adjust the frequencies by putting the BLACK lead on ground (TP4) on the sound board and the RED lead of the multimeter set to the frequency setting (Hz) on the appropriate test point (see below and the pic to the left). Then, turn the pots one way or the other in small increments to the following specs.

TP2 Adjust R6 138 Hz +/- 3Hz
TP3 Adjust R2 104 Hz +/- 3 Hz
TP5 Adjust R13 172 Hz +/- 3 Hz

5.13.9 SB-300 Sound Board

Technical write up regarding the SB-300 sound board is located here.

If some of the sounds are missing or incorrect when using a SB-300 sound board with an Alltek MPU board (e.g. especially noticable for the spinner sounds on a Meteor), try clearing memory on the MPU board to see if that fixes the issue.


5.13.9.1 Stern SB-300 Sound Board Modification for VSU-100 Usage

Games with a VSU-100 speech card require a modified SB-300 to utilize the speech. First, see if your SB-300 already has a trace for this connection by checking continuity between pin 5 of the rightmost connector at the bottom and the top of capacitor C14. If you read continuity, you do not need to do this mod.


  • Stern SB-300 Added Jumper Modification for Speech
  • First solder point for jumper
    (pin 5 of rightmost connector)
  • Second solder point for jumper
    (top of capacitor C14)
  • Overall picture of jumper


5.13.10 VSU-100 Speech Board

Unlike most all other combination sound speech boards made by Bally, Williams, and Gottlieb, Stern did not use a potentiometer for mixing the sounds and speech volume.

If the speech is nonexistent, first make certain that the SB-300 sound board has the appropriate jumper added. The jumper goes between the right .156 connector pin 5 and the top of capacitor C14. Later revision SB-300 boards have a trace on the board for this so measure for continuity between those 2 points; if it is there, no need to add the additional jumper. Next, make certain that the EPROMs installed are valid. Very common for bad 2716's to cause the board to not work. You can replace both 2716's on games that use both U9 and U10 with a single 2532 installed into U9. Create this eprom file by using the DOS copy command: copy /b u9.716 + u10.716 u9comb.532. For Flight 2000, which only uses U9, just copy /b u9.716 + u9.716 u9f2k.532, or just burn the image into the lower half of a 2532. No jumper changes are needed to do this conversion, but you must make sure you only have ONE eprom installed in to u9 - you cannot install or leave an eprom into u10 due to the way the VSU-100 handles addressing.

If the speech is much lower than the sound, suspect capacitor C6 first.

Although the S14001A speech chip is somewhat expensive, it is still available from some online outlets. Do not assume that this chip is bad just because the speech is not working - it is more common for support components or missing voltages to cause speech board issues.

There is a short jumper handling the pass-through signals to the lamp board which uses IDC connectors, these can be problematic and cause lamp issues. A cable can be built with discrete wires and .100 connectors to replace this often overlooked issue.

5.14 Flipper problems

Upper Flipper Mech with 1ohm sand resistor in series. Image courtesy of David Rowland.


Some games, like Meteor and SeaWitch, make use of a 1ohm resistor, in series with the flipper coil "power winding", to reduce flipper power strength, while using a "standard" coil. This prevents drop targets from being damaged and allowed Stern to use the same coil across their game production.

5.14.1 Rebuilding Flippers

Nothing makes more of a difference on a game than having taut, crisp, flippers. Even if every other mechanical component on a game is rebuilt, if the flippers are sluggish and weak, players walk away with a sour taste of the games' experience. At a minimum, flippers should be taken apart, inspected for wear, have their coil sleeve replaced with new, and reassembled while dressing any worn plungers/stops with a file. Additionally, the end of stroke switch should be filed and adjusted, as well as the cabinet switches that actuate the flippers.

It is best to replace the plungers and links, the coil stop, and the end of stroke switch(es) with brand new components. Quality varies in replacement parts for this era game, with some components being completely unavailable in suitable replacements. One example is the proper Stern coil stop for flippers - while there is a modern replacement, it is very expensive and does not seem to work as well as the original copper colored stops. You can swap the copper stops from stern pop bumpers which show very little wear into the flipper positions. The worn stop from the flipper will usually work on the pop bumper fine as the pulse rarely pulls the pop plunger down to the stop (hence why they are perfect to swap).

Another part that seems to be available are replacement flipper bats for Stern games - while they will fit and work, they are slightly fatter in profile at the inlane end and will cause flipper hop.

Recently a supplier (pinballlife.com) has started remanufacturing classic Stern style flipper parts in the generation 2 style as well as Bally flipper parts and full flipper assmblies. The flipper plates are a welcome addition to the repair arsenal, as the holes are usually stripped out from hacky repairs over the years.

When reassembling the flipper, check the bushing for cracks or wear - the bushing's job is to hold the flipper bat square to the playfield at a high enough height to prevent the flipper from dragging across the playfield surface, causing gouging and wear. Be sure the flipper has a slight up-down leeway built in at both rest and at extension. The inlane guide should be a smooth transition from guide to flipper; while you can't adjust the flipper to tweak this, you can and should adjust the lane guide.

5.14.2 Converting Bally or Stern Flipper Assys. to WMS WPC Style Flipper Assys.

Standard Stern flipper wiring diagram
Stern flipper wiring with WPC coils installed
Stern lower left flipper - stock wiring
Stern lower left flipper - WPC wiring
Stern lower right flipper - stock wiring
Stern lower right flipper - WPC wiring


Considered drastic by some, while sacrilege by others, converting Bally or Stern flippers to Williams WPC style flippers can be done. The only restriction may be whether or not the Williams flipper plate, which has a much larger footprint, will fit for a specific application or not. The closest Williams flipper coil in strength is the FL-11630. It is remarkably similar. It is also recommended to use the A-12390 coil stop. The A-12390 coil stop will result in nearly the same stroke at the Stern original flipper set up. Also, use end-of-stroke switch 03-7811. This was the EOS switch used on pre-fliptronics Williams games. If using the original Stern EOS switches, the long blade may need to be trimmed back. Otherwise, the blade may get caught on one of the flipper bushing screws.

As illustrated in the pics, the white wiring with the black Sharpie mark on it is the wire which goes to the secondary switch on the flippers. The secondary switch is used to send ground to the upper flippers of the game. The plain two white wires connect to the EOS switch of the flipper. Either white wire can be attached to either EOS switch blade solder lug. It does not matter.

5.15 Pop Bumper Problems

Pop bumpers on Bally/Stern games aren't that unusual, and the "usual" advice applies.

5.15.1 Pop Bumper Randomly Fires

An occasional spurious pop from a pop bumper on these games is normal. This is, somehow, an intentional artifact of the software, attempting to aggressively "debounce". These kick with full strength, but do not score. (This is discussed in the Bally Theory of Operation manual.) However, a failing capacitor on a switch may also cause issues. See the information under the switch capacitor section for additional details.

If the bumper activates whenever the flipper fires, check to make sure the switch is clean and gapped properly.

5.15.2 Bally New-Style Pop Bumpers

Bally changed the pop bumper assembling starting with Eight Ball Deluxe. Gone were the "Sunburst" caps. Caps are now two pieces, a large trim ring and a smaller inner logo circle.

Three tabs on the body of the pop bumper hold the trim ring on. These tabs tend to break off. Eventually, Bally added screw holes to the top of the bumper so that they could again be screwed on. Either the bumper cap or bumper body may be missing the screw holes, in which case the bumper body must be replaced.

If the original "pinned" lamp socket is present, replacing the body on these pop bumpers is quite easy. Remove the two nuts that hold the rod/ring assembly on under the playfield. Lower the playfield and remove the bumper cap and trim ring. Two screws can be removed from the bottom of the body. Pull the body off the playfield. The lamp socket will come with it, and two female housings will be holding the lamp socket on. These get pulled off. The socket comes out with a little coaxing and can be moved to the new pop bumper body.

One more note: The tabs of the bumper body were originally reinforced with a thin ring, 1mm in thickness and about as big around as the bumper cap itself. These were used to give the tabs a little more reinforcement so they don't flex and break off. Unfortunately, these are now unavailable.

5.16 Setting Free Play

If you read the manual that came with your game, you'll notice there are no factory provisions for setting the games on non-coin play. There are several options for homeowners to set their machines up so quarters or opening the coin door aren't required.

Free play via low replay scores

The easiest way to keep a quantity of credits on the machine is to set the first replay score to a very low value (10,000 on most machines). This way you can put several credits on the machine initially, and then each game played will probably win a credit. Press the self-test button inside the coin door until you see "01" in the ball-in-play display. Press the button on the mpu board itself (S33) to clear this value to zero, then use the credit button (on the coin door) to step the setting one click forward to 10,000. (Some games let you 'flick' a coin door switch to zero the value, S33 works for all games)

In most cases you will score 10,000 very quickly enabling the machine to self-replenish its credits.

Free play via adding a switch

If you like having the 'coin-up' sound most machines make, adding a free play switch to a game is relatively simple. Any type of normally open switch can be soldered to one of the coin switches and mounted in an unobtrusive way (through the coin door return is a popular example, or mounted to the coin return instead). While it is also possible to drill a hole in the cabinet or coin door to mount this type of switch, it is discouraged to do this as it is difficult or impossible to reverse cleanly.

This type of switch can be piggybacked onto the credit button switch itself, the initial full press will add a credit, and the pullback stroke will start a game.

Free play via ROM replacement

As of this writing, free play replacement ROMS are available for all Bally/Stern games. For many years only Bally freeplay roms of various flavors were available, and these romsets are incorporated into some of the aftermarket replacement MPU boards. In 2009 freeplay roms became available for all the stern mpu-100 and mpu-200 games as well, but as of yet (6/2020) are only incorporated into the Weebly replacement board (https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html).

Some varieties of free play roms never let the credits go below one, some require a DIP switch setting, and some are free play only. Regardless of the type of free play rom used, they all work similarly. When the credits fall below a certain amount, the software code either increments a credit automatically, simply allows a game start with credits showing 00, or never lets the credits decrement below 01.

For many people free play roms are the preferred method of handling free play as no hardware modifications are needed to incorporate free play, and you can still have replay levels set to challenging levels. It also allows the machines to be placed in clubs, businesses, shows, etc. without the owner having to worry about people not knowing how to add credits via some other method. Press the credit button and go.

Free play ROM images for Stern MPU-100 games can be found here: File:Mpu100-freeplayroms.zip‎.
Free play ROM images for Stern MPU-200 games can be found here: File:Mpu200-freeplayroms.zip.

5.17 Game Trips Power Line Circuit Breaker When Plugged into Outlet

Incoming power cord, line filter, and blown / shorted varistor (Stern Seawitch)



Had a thunderstorm roll through or a power surge from the electric company recently? If so, and the game is now tripping the circuit breaker of the outlet it's plugged into, without the game's power switch turned on, the varistor may have shorted. The varistor is used to protect the rest of the game's circuitry from power surges.

Both Bally and Stern use varistors, which are typically located on the left cabinet wall. The varistor leads are soldered directly to the junction of the two power cord leads (hot and neutral) and the line side of the line filter.

The obvious sign of a failed varistor is typically a black, charred discoloration throughout the "button" portion of the varistor. Varistors can blow rather violently, as seen in the adjacent pic, and there may be charred or burnt remains in the area surrounding the varistor.

Varistors can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics. Order the 130V variant for 120VAC (typically games in the US), and the 275V variant for 240VAC (typcailly games in Europe).


5.18 Bally/Stern LED stays on after boot

7th flash produced but no led dimming afterward: The problem was one of the capacitors around the u12 (clock signal) were bad. I replaced c12,c16?, and c17. After that I got the 7th flash and the dimmed led afterward.

5.19 Solenoid Expander Board

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Bally Solenoid Expander board- Arrow indicates necessary bulb


There is a 555 bulb near (or sometimes not so near) that lights when the solenoid expander is activated. This bulb is essential for proper operation of the expander as the main opto isolator chip on the expander board needs a load to work. If you're having entire sets of solenoids not working, check this bulb.

The header pins on this board like to crack, also, so standard operating procedure should be to replace or at minimum resolder the headers, and re-pin the connector with Trifurcon connectors.

Also, it's very important that all solenoids on the expanded circuits have *TWO* diodes on them! If a coil was replaced with one that one had only a single diode, multiple solenoids could potentially activate on any solenoid expanded solenoid. Some side effects of a single diode coil installed could be a "memory" drop target activating when it shouldn't, or a target bank reset engaging when a saucer is supposed to eject.

5.20 Using a Bally 7 digit display in a Stern game or using a Stern 7 digit display in a Bally game

Bally and Stern 7 digit displays are interchangeable. However, Stern displays do not support commas and a small modification to the printed circuit board is necessary to make each board display all 7 digits in a "foreign" platform.

First, use a small jumper to connect J1, pins 11 and 12 together. Bally and Stern chose different pins (Bally used pin 12, where as Stern used pin 11) to strobe the 7th digit. Without this mod, placing a Stern 7 digit display into a Bally game will result in the 7th digit not being displayed (and vice versa). Making this modification creates a "universal" Bally/Stern 7 digit display.

Comparison between the PCB size of a Bally and Stern 7-digit display
Stern display trays - 7-digit player displays are mounted to back of insert, while shallower 6-digit status display is mounted to front



Bally and Stern also chose a different depth dimension for their display PCBs. Fortunately, the difference can be accommodated merely by mounting the display tray on the opposite side of the lamp insert panel. Note that this is also necessary when using "PinScore" displays in a Stern game. Alternatively, if using a Bally (or PinScore) display in a Stern game, since the Bally circuit board itself is not as deep, insert the display only as far as necessary for it to "flush up" to the backglass when installed.

Bally 7-Digit display used as a Stern status display before modification




Bally displays automatically show commas whenever the thousands and millions digits are lit. To make a Bally display "match" the Stern display's non-comma capable display, clip the base lead from Q22 and commas will no longer light up. You can alternatively clip one end of diodes CR1 and CR2 and lift the diodes off the board. This modification would be easier to reverse.

Since Stern 7 digit displays do not support commas, using a Stern display in a Bally game will look a little "off" versus the other displays in the game, but this will get your displays running if you have no other choice.

5.21 Bally Game running slow (delayed score, controlled lamp flicker) or if game crashes before attract mode starts

If your Bally game is running very slow (solenoid pulses are delayed and long, controlled lamps flicker, scoring takes a few seconds to register) or if your game boots with the typical 7 LED flashes but then crashes (dead game with garbage on the displays), before attract mode starts you may have a bad C16 capacitor. C16 controls the display interrupt speed. If it is out of spec, it could cause the gap between display interrupts to be too small, leaving the processor no time to service other game operation. C16 is in the corrosion area near the 555 timer.

YT.png A YouTube video of a slow game caused by a failed capacitor at C16 can be viewed here.

A game running slow can also be caused by a failed U14, which implements the "zero crossing" circuit. Do NOT use the HEF4049. These will cause controlled lamps flicker. CD4049 is a good choice.

5.22 Converting a Bally -17, -35 or Stern -100 CPU Board to a Stern -200

Stern MPU-200 CPU boards are probably the least common of the four CPU boards. The -200 boards are compatible in -17, -35, and -100 games. Although considering that -17, -35, and -100 boards are much more prevalent, it would be somewhat of a waste to use a -200 in any of these games. What if the more common boards could be converted to a -200? Check out WarpZoneArcade's blog entry to find out how to modify a -17, -35, or -100 to work as a -200.

6 Game Specific Problems and Fixes

6.1 Stern Seawitch

6.1.1 Ball Trapped on Upper Left Flipper Plastic

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Ball deflector installed on a Seawitch

Problem:The ball gets trapped between the glass and the left side plastic above the 3 drop targets, from a hard shot to the center 3 drop targets.

Solution: Cut a 11" (28cm) long by 5/8" to 7/8" (16mm to 22mm) strip of acrylic commonly used for home window glass replacement. Acrylic sheet can be scored and cut with a knife, but a bandsaw works best. Remove the plastic protector sheet, and plan the areas and angle you wish to bend.

With a propane torch (the instant on Bernz-o-Matic is great for this), heat the bend area for 2 seconds, and form the bend freehand or with a tabletop. The acrylic will stay soft and bendable for about 20 seconds, so if the angle is not right you can change the bend with or without additional heat from the torch. Clean up the cut edges and corners with a file and/or sandpaper. Brackets can be made out of thin stainless or mild steel. Keystone makes a bracket that is small and has 1 hole tapped for a 6-32 screw. (Manufacturer P/N#614 or Mouser P/N 534-614) A 6-32 nut & 3/8" computer case screw can be used to provide the needed clearance.

Flat Lexan Ball Deflector installed on a Seawitch


Style of standoff used to secure Lexan to playfield

Here is an alternate method to keep from balls getting trapped on top of the plastic behind the upper left flipper. First, remove the existing large plastic behind the upper left flipper. Next, place the plastic onto a piece of Lexan, and trace the right side of the plastic's shape onto the piece of Lexan. Make certain to use enough of the plastic to cover the 3 screw holes in the vicinity of the flipper. These 3 screw holes will be used to secure the Lexan. Now, cut the piece of Lexan with a jigsaw. The edges can be smoothed with a file or sandpaper. Next, again place the plastic on the Lexan, and if satisfied with the results, mark the 3 screw holes that secure the plastic to the threaded metal standoff posts. Using about an 1/8" bit, (double check the exact size), drill the holes where the Lexan is marked. Place the original plastic back on the playfield. Take 3 nylon standoffs, which are typically used to secure circuit boards to a flat surface, and screw them onto the threaded metal standoff posts, where the nylon or rubber cap nuts would normally go. Do not use too long of a post, otherwise the playfield glass will hit the Lexan. Standoffs can be purchased from Great Plains Electronics. Finally, firmly place the piece of Lexan down on the 3 nylon standoffs.

6.1.2 Upper Flippers Power Resistor

Power Resistor Installed in Series on Upper Left Flipper (Seawitch)



On Seawitch, both upper flippers have a single 1 ohm 5 watt power resistor installed in series with the power winding of each flipper coil. Neither resistor is listed in the game's manual or schematics. It is presumed that the resistors were installed due to the upper flippers close proximity of nearby drop targets and plastics. The resistors are not necessary for proper function, and could be by-passed, but it is best to keep the resistors installed. The lack of this resistor will increase the flipper power, and more frequent breakage of drop targets or plastics may result.

Similar resistors were installed on other Stern games at this time typically on upper flippers that were close to targets.

An alternate to leaving the resistors in place (used in this application as a crude voltage reduction device; i.e. runs very hot and causes burn marks on the bottom of the playfield) is to open up the end of stroke switches instead. The flipper will flip with less power which is the intended goal.

6.2 Stern Hot Hand Not Booting at 5th Flash or Game Locks-up at Game Over

If you find that your Stern Hot Hand game sometimes won't boot-up on the 5th flash; or that sometimes at Game-Over the displays go blank and the game dies, there is a good possibility it's the rotating flipper motor. The rotating flipper is pulsed briefly (on/off) as a byproduct of the PIA U11 test (5th flash) during boot-up. It also rotates constantly during a game and shuts off at game-over.

Diagram of the Stern Hot Hand motor showing the capacitor and MOV soldered across the motor terminals

The rotating flipper motor is connected directly to the 48V terminals 2 and 6 of the transformer. The 48V to the motor is controlled by a relay mounted to the motor bracket. Q18 on the Solenoid Driver Board energizes and de-energizes the relay coil which turns the motor on and off. When the motor turns off, it sends a voltage spike (EMF collapsing) that can sometimes be picked up by the MPU and cause the game to not boot (5th flash) or just shut down after game-over. During the boot sequence U11 PIA test (5th flash) the game enables all solenoids briefly as an artifact of how the test is performed. The slight on/off and resulting EMF pulse during the boot up on the 5th flash can cause the MPU to lock up.

Apparently Stern didn't realize this issue until later and seemed to have modified Orbitor 1 to suppress the spike. On Orbitor 1, there is both a 1uF, 2kV capacitor and 130V Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV) in parallel across the bumper motor terminals. This can also be accomplished with a 2.2uF, 250V mylar film capacitor and a 100V MOV soldered in parallel across the motor terminals. These devices help suppress the voltage spike at the motor and keep it from reaching the MPU and causing lock ups. Simply solder both the MOV and capacitor across the rotating flipper motor terminals. The capacitor and MOV are not polarity specific so it doesn't matter which device lead goes on which motor terminal.

6.3 Stern Meteor

There is a software bug in Meteor's software concerning the bonus countdown - you will get a seemingly endless bonus multiplier at the end of your ball. (It's actually 255 x)

This is caused by a re-use of a memory location that holds your original bonus multiplier value during bonus countdown. The memory location is shared with the "collect all rockets" subroutine on the outlanes. If the software is dealing with lots of active threads, such as the spinner spinning at the same time as the collect all rockets and outhole subroutine are active, the bonus multiplier will become zero and count down from 255->1.

An updated game ROM named "U1a" includes a patch for the bug and is available on the Meteor IPDB page.

6.4 Stern Orbitor 1

Two balls need to be in the trough on boot up, or else you will hear "shoot pinball again" over and over with no attract mode

6.5 Centaur

If the game is missing any of the pinballs (or a bad trough switch) the game will not fully boot. The displays will show all "0"s across all displays. Hitting the test button will allow you to enter the test menu, and you can proceed to switch test to diagnose the trough switches.

7 Parts Substitutions & Replacements

7.1 Components

7.1.1 Driver Board LM323K 5V Regulator

Since the LM323K has become scarce, with mainly just sub-par Chinese knock-offs and counterfeit components available as replacements, an alternative is the EZSBC PSU5 LM323K replacement, and the newer "no noise" version for games exhibiting speaker noise when using the original style PSU5.

When installing on a Bally solenoid driver board, be sure to remove R49 since it adds an unnecessary load to the device (which is only necessary with a real LM323K), and replace R50 with a jumper, since the this device expects a direct path to ground. However, make sure to use an actual wire for the jumper and not a zero ohm resistor. A lot of current can surge through this critical connection and the wire on some zero ohm resistors may be too thin to handle it, which can result in voltage drops.

When using the PSU5, the large heatsink required by the LM323K is no longer needed and can be removed. It can also be left in place in the event that it is ever needed in the future.

Note that since the PSU5 is a switching device (rather than a linear device like the LM323K), it may introduce noise/static (or a "machine gun" sound) to the sound board or speaker. Adding a 1000uf/20v capacitor to the driver board between the 5V trace and the ground trace near J3 may help reduce or eliminate the issue.

An updated version of the PSU5, called the PSU5NN (NN = no noise) eliminates the "machine gun" sound sometimes imparted when powering a game down with the older version of the PSU5 installed. It can be found here.

Resistors that can be used to adjust output of the OEM LM323K or 78H05. (Image courtesy of PinSider barakandl)
A Stern Solenoid/Driver board updated with the ezSBC 5V regulator. R49 has been removed (previously located where the dotted line is) and R50 ha been removed and replaced with a beefy wire jumper. R49 and R50 are pictured laying on the board for reference. (Image courtesy of Chris Hibler)


In the standard Bally/Stern implementation, resistors R49 and R50 increase the output voltage, presumably to accommodate voltage loss across connectors and the variance within the LM323K 5% specification.

If the LM323K outputs a perfect 5.00 volts between its pin 2 and 3, R49 and R50 will increase the output voltage according to this simplified equation:

  • Vout = 5.00 * (1+ (R50/R49))

Bally and Stern used a 100 ohm resistor at R49.
Bally used a 2.2 ohm resistor at R50.
Stern used a 4.7 ohm resistor at R50.

Therefore, based on the above formula, a Bally board will deliver about 5.11 volts.
A Stern board, based on the above formula, will deliver about 5.23 volts.

The specified tolerance of the LM323K is 5%. A 5% tolerance means that parts will deliver somewhere between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Using Stern's resistor values, with a LM323K delivering the spec maximum of 5.25 volts, the formula above yields an output of 5.49 volts.

7.2 Available 3D Printed Replacements

With the increased availability of 3D printed parts, some Bally and Stern parts are being offered up via Shapeways and other 3D object marketplaces. Some of the available parts are:


7.3 Repair Logs

7.3.1 MPU boot halts after 2nd flash on Centaur

Note: One possible reason that the boot process may stop after 2 flashes is if MPU J1 connector and lamp board J1 connector have been swapped, as indicated by this repair: Here's a weird gotcha. While reconnecting the wiring harness to a previously known working Centaur II, the game wouldn't boot (only 2 flashes). We swapped in a known working Alltek reproduction board. Same symptom! After looking at a set of Centaur schematics we had on hand, the first half dozen pins of J1 on the MPU were striped wires, while the schematics called for solid-colored wires. Wait a minute... That's when we realized that the J1 connector on the MPU and the adjacent lamp driver board are not only the same number of pins, but the same KEY!! ARGH!!! Thankfully no damage was done on these low voltage lines. Swapping the MPU and lamp driver boards' J1 connectors resulted in a perfectly bootable/functional game. Why this accidental swap caused the 5101 RAM check to fail is an exercise left to the user.

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